Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?
Eric, I don't think there will be any problem as long as the sockets you have do not interfere with the components around those ICs. The only piece which gets even close to those three ICs on the front panel would be battery compartment, but since ICs in sockets won't be any higher than the main controller in its socket it should not be causing any trouble. On Sun, Aug 22, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Eric Champine wrote: > Hi all. > I am at the point on the K1's front panel where I am supposed to solder in > the 3 "8 pin IC's" to the front panel. > The main chip has a IC Socket installed. I have extra 8 pin IC sockets in my > junk box. Is it OK to install the IC sockets or is there a problem with > space? > Thanks if anyone can help me. > > 73 de W2EEC > > Eric > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?
I wholeheartedly agree that I did not consider this topic from the perspective of warranty repairs (never needed it in the past since I do always do it myself). But I had been in a situation in a different country where the cost of a single IC (even though it is very cheap here in US) was close to my TWO MONTH INCOME. And with the high chances of getting a fried chip at the bazaar back then the trouble of installing a socket for almost everything was definitely not sophomoric, amateurish, silly, stupid, or unnecessary - it was a compromise to bring the cost of highly likely repairs down (the cost of trashing entire board due to re-soldering same IC over and over was unacceptable). Can it be installed? Yes. Can it work? Yes. Will it cause problems mechanically for further assembly process? No. Will it be as reliable as soldering? No. Will it be accepted for warranty repairs? No. Will it decrease the chance of breaking the board trying to unsolder the fried or mis-installed IC by an inexperienced builder? Yes. Will it increase the chance of mis-installing IC? Yes. Will it be worth it? Depends on your personal preference. Did I miss anything? On Sun, Aug 22, 2010 at 10:59 PM, Mike Morrow wrote: > Alexey wrote of IC socket use where Elecraft did not specify it: > >> I don't think there will be any problem... > > That statement is definitely NOT correct. IC socket use where not > absolutely required is very bad, amateur, sophmoric engineering. > > Do so and Elecraft will not repair the problems that your "improvement" > of their design causes. > > Do NOT use IC sockets where Elecraft does NOT specify IC sockets. > > Ever. > > Anywhere. > > Mike / KK5F > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Question Please?
Agreed. I'd trust something like this: http://ly.rsdelivers.com/product/winslow/w30514trc/14-way-turned-pin-dil-socket-03in-pitch/0813121.aspx On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 3:27 AM, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote: > Alexey, > > Yes, you didn't mention the type of IC socket :-) > > Turned Pin sockets aka Machined Pin sockets provide very reliable > connections, but are more expensive than the "flat contact" type of socket > supplied in many amateur kits which can cause problems. > > Turned Pin sockets were used in some telephone exchange equipment before the > advent of SMDs. > > 73, > Geoff > GM4ESD > > > Alexey Kats wrote on Monday, August 23, 2010 at 7:10 AM: > > > >> Can it be installed? Yes. Can it work? Yes. Will it cause problems >> mechanically for further assembly process? No. Will it be as reliable >> as soldering? No. Will it be accepted for warranty repairs? No. Will >> it decrease the chance of breaking the board trying to unsolder the >> fried or mis-installed IC by an inexperienced builder? Yes. Will it >> increase the chance of mis-installing IC? Yes. Will it be worth it? >> Depends on your personal preference. >> >> Did I miss anything? > > > > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] XG2
Probably because it's the same picture that appears in the PDF (E740084 XG2 Manual Rev E.pdf) before the errata document was issued. On Mon, Nov 8, 2010 at 11:50 AM, Adrian wrote: > I am surprised the XG2 photo on the elecraft website shows D1 in > incorrect bias position. > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Couple questions about K2
Hi there, I have a small question. The K2 manual refers couple times to the "Adding a SPLIT/RIT/XIT LED to the K2" application note, but I cannot find it anywhere. Could anybody point me to where it is located? Sorry for the silly question and thank you . (I do not have K2 kit, so I have no idea what the current manual is saying - I am simply going through PDFs on the Elecraft's web site.) Oh, and while I am at it, I have one more question. If I am only interested in high performance QRP CW rig, would it benefit me to get SSB option for K2? Will it improve anything for CW? I think I'd like to have it just for the sake of having a complete rig, but will it have any benefit or will it be just a potentially useful feature? Once again, thank you in advance for all the answers. -- Alexey Kats __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Couple questions about K2
AB7CE's mod? Interesting... Are you referring to the one where T7 needs to be rewound? Val wrote: > Alexey, > > You don't need SSB option, if you are going to operate CW only. This is > the beauty of K2 - you pay only for what you really need. > Furthermore, If you are goung to use K2 only for CW, I strongly suggest > you to make AB7CE mod, which improve the narrow band filter performance. > > 73, Val LZ1VB -- Alexey Kats __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Couple questions about K2
Thank you all very much for the answers - I think I understand what I want from K2 much better now. I hope I'll have as much fun building it as I had with K1. -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Couple questions about K2
This is a nice idea - LEDs inside of button caps... Hmmm... I was toying an idea of putting different colour LEDs right above the LCD indicator between its top side pins(they should be quite visible as long as the colour is different from its backlight), but putting them inside of button caps is much more elegant. On Mon, May 24, 2010 at 8:15 AM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) [via Elecraft] wrote: > If you are interested in adding LEDs to the K2 you may want to look at my > description on how to add up to 5 LEDs without drilling any holes in the K2, > see K2 LEDS. They are: > > 1. Split/RIT/XIT > 2. Zero-beat detector > 3. Analog audio filter > 4. TX on > 5. RX ant on > > Alexey Kats wrote: > I have a small question. The K2 manual refers couple times to the > "Adding a SPLIT/RIT/XIT LED to the K2" application note, > > Sverre, LA3ZA > Sverre, LA3ZA K2 #2198, K3 #3391 LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications > > > This email was sent by Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) (via Nabble) > Your replies will appear at > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Couple-questions-about-K2-tp5093484p5094234.html > To receive all replies by email, subscribe to this discussion > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Couple-questions-about-K2-tp5093484p5097224.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Couple questions about K2
I was referring to this mod http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2_LEDS.html The technique of installing micro LEDs inside of push button caps is described here: http://www.n0ss.net/kr5l_led_cw_tuning_ind.pdf On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 7:14 PM, Bill Coleman wrote: > > On May 25, 2010, at 3:13 AM, Alexey Kats wrote: > >> This is a nice idea - LEDs inside of button caps... Hmmm... I was >> toying an idea of putting different colour LEDs right above the LCD >> indicator between its top side pins(they should be quite visible as >> long as the colour is different from its backlight), but putting them >> inside of button caps is much more elegant. > > How exactly do you get the LEDs inside the button caps? > > Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: aa...@arrl.net > Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com > Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" > -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 band pass filter alignment
Greg, You can use XG2 kit from Elecraft as a signal source for K1 on 80m, 40m and 20m bands (it'll also give you a chance to adjust S-meter as well). 80m might be a little problematic if you selected 80kHz tuning range because it is close to the upper end of the band, but you should still be able to use it unless your VFO is misaligned. Or you could use N-gen kit too, but be careful with it - it's easy to adjust all filters on receive so it will look like you reached the peak, while in reality your IF will not align properly with center frequency of crystal filters. This is because it produces relatively strong noise signal. If that happens (the giveaway is that you can hear noise generator, but nothing from the antenna) - move all adjustments for the problematic band to their neutral positions and start over. But the easiest method is to use another QRP rig or a signal generator as a signal source. On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 5:19 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Greg, > > You will "peak the inductors" two times - first in receive to get then > into the approximate correct position, and then in transmit for the > final setting. > NOTE WELL - you will peak the inductors if you have the 2 band board, > but if you have the 4 band board, you will be peaking the capacitive > trimmers instead - and for the 4 band board, follow the band order - 30 > meters must be peaked before 40 meters and 15/17 meters must be peaked > before 20 meters. > > OK, what does "peaking" mean - for receive, you will simply adjust for > maximum signal (or band noise if you cannot hear any signals) You can > use another QRP transmitter running into a dummy load as a signal > source, or if you have a signal generator, that is ideal - listen to the > signal and adjust the inductors (or capacitors for the 4 band board) to > achieve the strongest received signal > > On transmit, things are a bit easier - you have already pre-set the > tuning during receive, so this is just a matter of refining the tuning - > in other words, you should not have to move the adjustment very far. > Set the power (menu OUT parameter) to about 1.5 watts, and then adjust > for the maximum power output. Problem - if the power output rises to > more than 5 watts, the peak will "hide". and you will reach the power > output capability of the transistors rather than finding the peak, so > exit TUNE and re-enter (or in the case of the K1, often repetitively > tapping the WPM- button will reduce the power) keep the power level low > so you can discern the peak. You will find a point where the power > output increases, and then decreases as you adjust the inductor (or > capacitor). The point in between where the power is maximum is the peak > that you are searching for. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > ki4...@cox.net wrote: >> I love this rig already! My wife was sure I was having an affair last >> night when I came in from my man cave just smiling ear to ear because >> my led backlight lit up, and I was able to play with the controls. I >> was most notably giddy when I aligned the VFO by manipulating the L1 >> toroidalI love electricity, but I digress. I am on page 40 doing >> the band-pass filter alignment. What does it mean to peak the >> inductors? I am not sure what I am looking for there. Thanks so much. >> >> Greg Doughty -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 band pass filter alignment
Don, You are absolutely right - the biggest trouble I had with my K1-4 was on 17m band. With 20m I used XG2, but for 17m I ended up tuning it after transmitter was fully built - I first tuned it roughly on low power transmit with dummy load and watt meter, then using noise generator on receive (with attenuator on), then again with watt meter on transmit. And as a result I had to re-tune 20m again. On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 6:04 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Alexey, > > Using the noise source or "dead band noise" with the K1-4 is problematic for > the 15/17 meter and 20 meter bands. > The real world situation is that it is possible to tune the 15/17 meter > Pre-Mixer bandpass trimmers to the region of 29 MHz rather than 23 MHz. The > usual result is that 20 meters cannot be tuned properly (and the frequency > that 15/17 meters is tuned to is incorrect). > > The way to avoid that situation is to use a known signal source when tuning > 15/17 meters. > > The manual states that the initial position for the Trimmer capacitors is to > be with the slots parallel with the long side of the board. The final > adjustment ot the trimmers will be no further than 20 degrees away from that > position. If the 'peak' occurs further away from that range, it is at the > wrong point. > > Using a signal source of a known frequency will avoid this problem, but > using a wideband noise source can certainly produce this false response. > > Note that this condition does not occur as readily with the 2 band board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > Alexey Kats wrote: >> >> Greg, >> >> You can use XG2 kit from Elecraft as a signal source for K1 on 80m, >> 40m and 20m bands (it'll also give you a chance to adjust S-meter as >> well). 80m might be a little problematic if you selected 80kHz tuning >> range because it is close to the upper end of the band, but you should >> still be able to use it unless your VFO is misaligned. >> >> Or you could use N-gen kit too, but be careful with it - it's easy to >> adjust all filters on receive so it will look like you reached the >> peak, while in reality your IF will not align properly with center >> frequency of crystal filters. This is because it produces relatively >> strong noise signal. If that happens (the giveaway is that you can >> hear noise generator, but nothing from the antenna) - move all >> adjustments for the problematic band to their neutral positions and >> start over. >> >> But the easiest method is to use another QRP rig or a signal generator >> as a signal source. >> >> > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Question about K2 mod for optimizing it for 5W CW
I have one more question about K2. I noticed that revision C of K2 manual says that if to increase QRP T4 transfor -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 mod for optimizing it for 5W CW
Sorry, I managed to press the wrong key and sent it before I finished it. Anyway... I know that older version of K2 manual refers to changing winding of T4 transformer to 2:2 (instead of original 2:3) in order to increase efficiency of CW performance on 5W or less. Is it still applicable to the current version of K2? I am not interested in SSB mode at all, so limiting max power to 5W is acceptable. I simply want to know whether the rest of tuning instructions will be the same if I change T4 winding according to those directions from rev C manual? (25-30% decrease in current drain is quite important when operating from batteries.) In any case, I am going to add 6.8k resistor to the R2 (of course it depends on the total resistance of R2 in the current kit) on control board according to DK3RED mod (which will limit max power to about 5W anyway), and I want to limit current consumption as well if I can. I went through the schematics in manuals from revision C, D and G, and as far as I can see nothing indicates that this T4 transformer operation had changed (since it is operating in exactly same output stage as the older versions of K2 PA), so I am assuming it is safe to change its winding. But if I am wrong, please, tell me so. Thank you. On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 5:56 AM, Alexey Kats wrote: > I have one more question about K2. I noticed that revision C of K2 > manual says that if to increase QRP T4 transfor > > -- > Alexey Kats (neko) > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 mod for optimizing it for 5W CW
Thank you, Don, for responding so early (I hope you do not have insomnia as I do). And yes, that's exactly what I am looking for - K2 restricted to 5W and to CW-only operation, so as long as it is safe and is not going to introduce spurious emission it'll work for me. On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 6:31 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Alexey, > > Make that change IF AND ONLY IF 1) you will never install the KSB2, AND 2) > you will not operate above the 5 watt level. > > That change makes the K2 PA transistors more efficient at 5 watts and below, > but the operation is non-linear and the efficiency is worse if the power is > increased above the 5 watt level. > > So it is not a recommended change except for those special circumstances. > If the major use of the K2 is CW only operation at QRP levels on batteries, > then it is worthy of consideration. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > Alexey Kats wrote: >> >> I have one more question about K2. I noticed that revision C of K2 >> manual says that if to increase QRP T4 transfor >> >> > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] One more question about CW operation
I apologize if my question is not related to elecraft products at all, but I am simply curious... Of all fine folks using Elecraft transceivers, do you still use straight keys or bugs? Or are you using paddles and keyers all the time? I am asking because so many times I am hearing almost the same code on the air with only two things changing - timing between letters and words and QRS/QRQ. Which usually means that people use paddles. So I wonder, do people still use straight keys these days? -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2 mod for optimizing it for 5W CW
No worries, I'll do that (I hate it myself when I have to work on customized equipment when the owner either forgot about it, or didn't even know about it since it's not the original owner). Fortunately, the last time it happened with me was many years ago. And the most embarrassing part was that when I figured out what was customized it was ME who did it. (Even though it was many years ago and even in a different country I still feel ashamed by that experience.) On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 6:50 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Alexey, > > The R2 that is referred to by DK3RED is on the Front Panel - it is the power > control pot. > > There will be no change to any of the alignment procedures with the change > in the T4 winding ratio. > > Please put a sticker inside your K2 stating that the T4 winding ratio is > intentionally changed to optimize efficiency at 5 watts. I have worked on > several K2s where this change was made, then forgotten about (or the K2 > subsequently sold), and then the KSB2 and/or KPA100 was added, and the owner > wondered why it did not operate correctly. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > Alexey Kats wrote: >> >> Sorry, I managed to press the wrong key and sent it before I finished it. >> >> Anyway... I know that older version of K2 manual refers to changing >> winding of T4 transformer to 2:2 (instead of original 2:3) in order to >> increase efficiency of CW performance on 5W or less. Is it still >> applicable to the current version of K2? I am not interested in SSB >> mode at all, so limiting max power to 5W is acceptable. I simply want >> to know whether the rest of tuning instructions will be the same if I >> change T4 winding according to those directions from rev C manual? >> (25-30% decrease in current drain is quite important when operating >> from batteries.) In any case, I am going to add 6.8k resistor to the >> R2 (of course it depends on the total resistance of R2 in the current >> kit) on control board according to DK3RED mod (which will limit max >> power to about 5W anyway), and I want to limit current consumption as >> well if I can. >> > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] One more question about CW operation
Thank you all, that was most educative. And I apologize for the provocative question - I simply couldn't restrict my curiosity. -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] build?
Which kit? If it is one of these three I can build it for you. - XG2 Three Band Receiver Test Oscillator / S-Meter Calibrator - N-gen Wideband Noise Generator.(100 kHz - 500 MHz) - 2T-gen 2-Tone Test Oscillator Send me an e-mail if you are interested. On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 5:05 PM, ussv dharma wrote: > I ordered the osc kit from elecraft, but find that the parts are so small > that my 75 year old eyes just wont do the job. > > I emailed a couple of the "builders available" but get no response. > > Anyone interested in building this "thing-a-ma-bob" (there that tells my age) > for me? > > Susan > If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're > headed!! Susan Meckley, Skipper W7KFI-mm AFA9SM USSV > DHARMA -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Clock Accuracy
I apologize if it is inappropriate, but I am getting REALLY confused.
1 minute off in a month. It is 15 seconds off in a week. Let's say it
takes TWO minutes to correct it (maybe an overstatement, but still...)
Now, do you really mind spending extra TWO MINUTES correcting the
embedded clock than spending TWO MINUTES actually talking or listening
to somebody? Or do I miss something in this discussion?
I would GUESS that this is all about wrong expectation - instead of
treating embedded watch as a convenience some people come to
conclusion that since K3 as a TRANSCEIVER is a precision instrument it
must be just as accurate in all its other functions (embedded watch
should be accurate to millisecond, output watt-meter should be
accurate to milliwatt, or power source voltage should be accurate to
millivolt). Well, it is not and it should not. It is merely an
instrument for our hobbies, and it is better to define its quality by
its PRIMARY function than put it down because its secondary function
is not up to par.
Oh, and for the person who said he likes to compare his computer clock
to his K3. I'd suggest revisiting the whole idea of comparing
"untrusted" time source with "independent" time source. What makes you
think that "independent" is any better than "untrusted"? If you have
two watches, one is 30 MINUTES BEHIND correct time and another is 30
MINUTES AHEAD correct time, does it really tell you anything if you
compare those two? (I mean "anything" besides of that you can't trust
either one?) Comparing untrusted watch with the one you TRUST is fine,
but comparing it with the one you KNOW to be not precise but WISHING
to be precise is, pretty much, wishful thinking, at best.
In any case, can we stop trashing K{2|3} clock here? It servers its
purpose, after all. It is not perfect, it is not as stable as primary
frequency, but does it really matter? This is the tranceiver, after
all, not an atomic clock. I am afraid than next thing people will
complain about would be instability caused by side effects of
relativity theory after they travel around the globe several times.
On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 12:42 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF
wrote:
> Over here, I don't think the new rail companies know what a clock or a watch
> is!
>
> I must be lucky, my clock has only lost 5 minutes in 5 months.
>
> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Alexey Kats (neko)
__
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Re: [Elecraft] Clock Accuracy
Thank you, David, you managed to summarize what I was trying to say in one single (although long) sentence. My apologies to the reflector audience, I should have thought about eloquence before I posted my version of the "oh, come on" response. On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 12:47 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: > Not that I'm complaining about the clock or criticising those that want more > accuracy, but there was a time, a long time ago, when people didn't have > clocks or watches, and even when they got clocks, they were very inaccurate - > the first clocks didn't have minute hands! > > I kinda think they were probably less hurried, more relaxed days. > 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 > -- > Don't say you don't have enough time. You have exactly the same number of > hours per day that were given to Helen Keller, Pasteur, Michaelangelo, > Mother Teresa, Leonardo da Vinci, Thomas Jefferson, and Albert Einstein. > -H. Jackson Brown, Jr., writer > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Clock Accuracy
Ouch! My apologies, I was responding to the whole trend of negative feelings toward K3 (and K2) clock counter. I did not mean to make it sound like I was responding to your complaints (I don't even recall if you DID complain about anything). On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 1:27 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote: > You miss something :-) > > I'm not complaining about my clock, I think it is just fine, I only use it in > the field and like Don, I sync it before I go out - either via the utility or > via some other timepiece. > 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 > -- > In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you > don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't > find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. > Is Common Sense divine? -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K-2 /100 Power Output Drop
It sounds like half of your PA shuts down somewhere close to the final stage transistors. Could it be a bad soldered connection somewhere which loses connection after brief warm-up? Or a partially stripped wire in one of symmetric transformers? I'd start with checking all the connections around PA transistors in final stage. (I had similar experience with a powerful AF amplifier long time ago, but there was another hint - audio was badly distorted.) -- Alexey Kats (neko) On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Dennis Utley - AF7Y wrote: > > First the good news. The receiver seems to be working well, even transmit > power is > at a full 100 watts (for a few seconds). Then output drops quickly > to 50 watts. Thats the bad news. > If I turn the radio off and wait a few moments. It will again output > full 100 watts peak SSB output for a few seconds then drop to 50%. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K-2 /100 Power Output Drop
Out of curiosity, is it only happening with power set to >10 watts? (If it is happening in QRP mode as well something must be wrong with your main RF board and its PA, but if it's only happening in QRO mode it's the KPA100 at fault. I think.) On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Alexey Kats wrote: > It sounds like half of your PA shuts down somewhere close to the final > stage transistors. Could it be a bad soldered connection somewhere > which loses connection after brief warm-up? Or a partially stripped > wire in one of symmetric transformers? I'd start with checking all the > connections around PA transistors in final stage. (I had similar > experience with a powerful AF amplifier long time ago, but there was > another hint - audio was badly distorted.) > > -- > Alexey Kats (neko) > > On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 1:50 PM, Dennis Utley - AF7Y > wrote: >> >> First the good news. The receiver seems to be working well, even transmit >> power is >> at a full 100 watts (for a few seconds). Then output drops quickly >> to 50 watts. Thats the bad news. > >> If I turn the radio off and wait a few moments. It will again output >> full 100 watts peak SSB output for a few seconds then drop to 50%. > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Backlight Kit Insulator Card
Yes, you are missing that part. You will need to contact Elecraft and ask for the missing piece - on the contact page at Elecraft site look for the e-mail for missing and spare parts request. On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 2:51 PM, Clark Macaulay KE4RQ wrote: > > According to the parts list, I should have a > 5th part called Insulator Card Assembly #E850215 which, according to step > #14, includes double-sided foam tape. There is a small piece of masking tape > on the Backlight itself. > > Methinks I'm missing this Insulator card, right? -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 alignment problem at 10/12m
You should hear relay clicks because they are switching trimming capacitors in and out when you switch between 10m and 12m. Out of curiosity, could it be a faulty relay somewhere in the band pass filter area? If it cannot connect both trimming capacitors to the filter when you switch to 12m it might explain why you cannot peak BP filter on proper frequency and it would cause output power to be low while still having internal RF voltages high. On Sat, Jul 31, 2010 at 6:36 AM, Andy Webster wrote: > Although 10m and 12m use the same BPF and LPF sections, there are relay > clicks when switching between these two bands - what is happening there? -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] "Backward" Baluns
I don't see why not - just like a transformer, if it was not reversible it wouldn't work for receiving signals properly. After all when you receive through it the antenna impedance is scaled back from 200 Ohm to 50 Ohm, is it not? If this is the case it'd scale 50 Ohm down to 12.5 Ohm just fine. But... If your antenna has 12.5 Ohm of resistance, what is its reactance? If it is way too high it will not work efficiently no matter what balun you use. And out of those 12.5 Ohm, what part of it is radiation resistance? On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 7:57 PM, Al Lorona wrote: > A 4:1 balun is always shown and talked about with the low impedance 50 ohm on > the unbalanced side and 200 ohm on the balanced side. > > Can it be connected backwards: 50 ohm unbalanced on the high impedance side, > and > 12.5 ohm balanced on the low impedance side? > > Al W6LX > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [OT] "Backward" Baluns
Ouch, right, I was mostly thinking about QRP. On high power one has to start keeping track of what current each side of a balun was supposed to handle as well. Sorry for missing that. On Sat, Aug 7, 2010 at 2:49 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: > It depends on what "balun" design you are talking about. Some 50:200 > baluns take a pair of 100 ohm feedlines wound on ferrite toroids to > choke off common mode current, connect them in parallel on the 50 ohm > side, and in series on the 200 ohm side. This design will not do > 50:12.5. Others will not work well because the 50:200 assumes the > lower current on the 200 side at QRO, and a different design 50:12.5 > is specifically wound with QRO high current of 12.5 in mind. -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Something *really* new at Dayton from Elecraft
Only 150 mA? What do you use for DSP and micro-controller? Or do you do all the work in the DSP itself? Also, what is the maximum current consumption when 1:4 transformer is used? Must be significantly more than for 1:1 ratio. (I am curious about CW mode - I assume it'd be running as a C or D mode, but I could be wrong. Will its PA run in AB mode always, or will PA mode vary depending on modulation?) On Wed, May 18, 2011 at 8:47 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote: > > Will it run for a whole contest on 8 AA cells at full power? > > Depends on the contest and the AA cells :) > > RX-mode current drain ~150 mA. Very efficient on TX, with dual-output- > impedance 5W/10W PA. > > Wayne > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] XG2 low output
Andrew, One more suggestion - check if either D1 or D2 (near the output socket) are shorted. (Tony KT0NY had somewhat similar problem recently and in his case D2 was shorted, besides of other reasons.) On Fri, Jul 22, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Andrew, > > Check to see if you have 1.22 volts at the cathode of U1. If not, > replace U1. > Other than that, check the soldering (re-flow if in doubt) - there are > just not that many components to give trouble. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 7/22/2011 9:21 AM, Andrew Moore wrote: > > Output on my XG2 3-frequency test oscillator appears to be down (by a > > different amount on all 3 frequencies). Tried replacing battery. > > Suggestions on what part(s) might be faulty? > > > > --Andrew, NV1B > > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A Different Look :-)
As my wife says sometimes, what's wrong with pink? On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 11:34 PM, Jack Chomley wrote: > Ahem..just wonder how nice any of the Elecraft radios would look, > painted in Military green?Just imagine the KX-3 in a super spy can't see me, > camo colour :-) > I would go 'green'.at the drop of a hat! > > 73, Jack VK4JRC > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3s and P3s Can't Swim
Lee, Out of sheer curiosity, did you mean 150 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit? (For the record - 150 F is approximately 65 C, quite normal for electronics. On the other hand, 150 C is approximately 300 F - a little bit too high, I am afraid. Not too high to cause the solder to melt, but still too high, especially to things like TFT monitors or LCD displays.) On Wed, Sep 14, 2011 at 6:24 PM, Lee Buller wrote: > > Well, get the insurance for sure. > > But, I've seen electronics cleaned out with a hose with clean water. Then > I've > seen them dried with a hair dryeror baked slowly in an over at 150 > degrees. Thenthe worked. > > Lee > K0WA > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Replacement tuning knob for K2?
Check the knobs that Fred Freeman (N8BX) makes: http://www.dtsohio.com/73cnc/elecraft.html On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 3:51 PM, Jim Lowman wrote: > I guess I dropped off the list, and just re-subscribed. > > Some years ago there was a discussion about replacing the stock tuning > knob on the K2 with a heavier one with a finger dimple. > Could someone refresh my memory on what knob was used? > > I'm thinking about one that Ten-Tec sells; a heavier metal knob like I > used to replace the stock knob on my Argonaut V and 516/"6N2." > > Thanks in advance for any suggestions. > > 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3
Ladies, gentlemen, and all the other species of HAM community, I apologize for such aggressive and somewhat insulting subject of my posting. But after reading all the "why I purchased Elecraft radio" reasons I felt like chirping in. I like radios, I like to find out what I can do with it. I like building things with my own hands. I didn't have so much fun building fully loaded K1, K2, and KX1 in years... like... like.. like I had when I was assembling my own computer with nothing but pliers, 40W soldering iron and individually acquired spare parts back in 90es. It felt like I was giving birth to a baby or something - making sure that it is in the best state I could possibly make it. And I could also learn from it, a lot, in fact. Now, don't get me wrong, when it comes to the specs of K3 I bow my head to the designers of it - it's truly a one son of a gun radio. It's pretty much the heaven dream for CW. I know that. But there is one thing which makes me uneasy - it's not the radio I built. It's not even the radio I assembled. It's the radio someone else built, and all I am reduced to is plates arrangements and screwdriver turning. It's almost like I am not sure whether I should be thanking Wayne and Eric, or curse them. (Probably thank them more than anything...) My gripe with K3 is that even if I buy it, build it, and use it, I can't honestly say that I BUILD it. Simply because I didn't build it. With K1, K2, KX1 I learned a lot from its schematics, I was able to figure out what went wrong if something went wrong (just to prove to myself that it was me who was an idiot). I loved the process of making sure that I understand each and every piece of it, to the last capacitor, even if I don't understand the assembler code of its main controller (I spend enough time with computers to hate them thoroughly as it is). My problem is I can't do the same with K3. I'd love to own it. I'd love to use it. But I'd hate to build it. I am sorry if this posting makes no sense to all of you. I was simply trying to express my feelings... I think I'll try to find more money to build another K1 or K2. (Actually, I like K1 more, don't ask me why.) -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3
As you said - to each his own... As long as we recognize the fun of using a radio to be separate form the fun of building a radio we are agreeing with each other. And, also, thank you for reading my words so early in the Sunday mornin... night? On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 5:42 AM, Gary Gregory wrote: > *Interesting comment. > > BUT, I didn't spend my hard earned dollars to 'build' something just for > the pleasure of building. > > I bought my K3 to USE it. > > Same reason I bought all my previous radios. Building something from > scratch is fun and yes you learn a heck of a lot from the experience...to > each his own eh? > > 73's > > Gary > * > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Why I won't purchase K3
Allen, you misunderstood me. I have no problem with using owning K3 - it the best radio I around, no matter which day you ask it. My problem is with K3 in its "kit" form. I don't have a problem buying it as an assembled radio. But I have a problem with buying it as a kit and then claiming that "I built it". All this "kit" form does is saving some money. It does not make me proud of achieving anything - that's what I was griping about. I don't mind bying K3. I don't like "building" it, that's all Actually, I think I should apologize to everybody - the subject of my original post was probably misleading. The better way to phrase it would be "why I won't purchase K3 KIT". On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 6:29 AM, VE3GAM Allen McRorie wrote: > interesting comment! > > if you want to use one of the best radios around, I really don't get why it > is so > important that you BUILD the rig. Hopefully the END product is more > important > than the process used to get there. if not, then I guess you will miss out > on using > one of the best radios around. > > that is why I don't consider the BUILD question important at all . > > Al ve3gam > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3
Thank you, I agree, the price of basic K3 is in the same range as of loaded K2 (a bit more, but still comparable). The thing is I like to BUILD stuff, and I always compare the cost of buying equipment against the fun of building it with my own two hands. So, when it comes down to cost-to-performance analysis - K3 wins hands down. It's only when one tries to justify the "kit" form it starts making little to no sense unless the only thing is saving the money part. I simply can't imagine anybody being extremely proud of following instructions of which screw to tighten first. (Please, don't feel offended - it was an exaggeration.) Sorry, I think I need to get some sleep now. On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 6:44 AM, Johnny Siu wrote: > Hello Alexey, > > Very good that you have put up such an agressive title. > > No worry, we often hear opinions from the opposite side in this mail > reflector. I like to build as well and the building process will give me > the chance to understand more about the architecture of modern radio. > > However, due to the wide use surface mount technology, it will be too > difficult for an untrained amateur like myself to handle surface mount work > for modern radio. The modular design of K3 is something that I can manage. > > I bought my latest K3 from the second hand market and I needed to do some > upgrade modification myself. I find this minor soldering work is quite fun > indeed. This is all I can handle. > > A basic K3 has already covered most of the functions of a fully fit K2 and > in similar price range. Therefore, I would go for a basic K3 instead of a > fully fit K2. > > > cheers, > > > Johnny VR2XMC > > > -- > *寄件人﹕* Alexey Kats > *收件人﹕* elecraft@mailman.qth.net > *傳送日期﹕* 2011/3/6 (日) 9:30:54 PM > *主題：* [Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3 > > Ladies, gentlemen, and all the other species of HAM community, > > I apologize for such aggressive and somewhat insulting subject of my > posting. But after reading all the "why I purchased Elecraft radio" reasons > I felt like chirping in. > > I like radios, I like to find out what I can do with it. I like building > things with my own hands. I didn't have so much fun building fully loaded > K1, K2, and KX1 in years... like... like.. like I had when I was assembling > my own computer with nothing but pliers, 40W soldering iron and > individually > acquired spare parts back in 90es. It felt like I was giving birth to a > baby > or something - making sure that it is in the best state I could possibly > make it. And I could also learn from it, a lot, in fact. > > Now, don't get me wrong, when it comes to the specs of K3 I bow my head to > the designers of it - it's truly a one son of a gun radio. It's pretty > much > the heaven dream for CW. I know that. But there is one thing which makes me > uneasy - it's not the radio I built. It's not even the radio I assembled. > It's the radio someone else built, and all I am reduced to is plates > arrangements and screwdriver turning. It's almost like I am not sure > whether > I should be thanking Wayne and Eric, or curse them. (Probably thank them > more than anything...) > > My gripe with K3 is that even if I buy it, build it, and use it, I can't > honestly say that I BUILD it. Simply because I didn't build it. With K1, > K2, > KX1 I learned a lot from its schematics, I was able to figure out what went > wrong if something went wrong (just to prove to myself that it was me who > was an idiot). I loved the process of making sure that I understand each > and > every piece of it, to the last capacitor, even if I don't understand the > assembler code of its main controller (I spend enough time with computers > to > hate them thoroughly as it is). My problem is I can't do the same with K3. > I'd love to own it. I'd love to use it. But I'd hate to build it. > > I am sorry if this posting makes no sense to all of you. I was simply > trying > to express my feelings... > > I think I'll try to find more money to build another K1 or K2. (Actually, I > like K1 more, don't ask me why.) > > -- > Alexey Kats (neko) > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3
Thank you all very much for your responses. I got lots of very interesting perspectives on my hobby. I guess I am simply too old-fashioned and don't like pre-assembled SMD boards. Well, back to the drawing board I go... Nevertheless, thank you all, I appreciate it. -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 as a kit
Wayne, I totally understand that the idea of making a large SMD project as a kit would be a disaster - only handful of people would be able to finish assembling it, plus the sheer cost of packing parts and replacing missing/lost pieces would probably double the average real-life cost of the kit (after all, I am still amazed that you offer replacement of missing parts at no charge, even for shipping). And with HAMs getting older the critical piece needed is the eyesight, and for SMD the poor eyesight is a killer. It wouldn't had been a good idea to cut older people off their hobby like this. I know you are right. And I am happy that K3 exists and is a top-notch performer. I was simply nostalgic about more involving building process. On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 7:23 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote: > Alexy, > > When we first started designing the K3, we agonized over the question of > whether to offer a "full" kit version -- one that required a lot of > soldering. But it quickly became apparent that this was incompatible with > other goals for the radio. We needed to use surface-mount devices throughout > in order to meet performance, size, and weight goals. An all through-hole > version, or even a "half-through-hole" version, would have been twice as > large and simply too expensive to be a successful product. > > Small kits using SMDs are great, and I highly recommend that anyone > interested in surface-mount technology try their hand at building one. There > are many SMD kit projects available from QRP clubs, etc. > > But a kit with many hundreds of SMDs would be a support disaster. The parts > are easy to lose, and hard for many people to install. Fine-pitch SMD ICs > are a challenge to install even for very experienced builders with excellent > equipment. Aligning and testing such a kit would require a lot of lab gear. > > So we accepted the notion that a radio like the K3, as a kit, would require > a higher level of integration. There was an existence proof for the utility > of such kits: do-it-yourself PCs. Many companies offer modules that can be > put together with a motherboard to create a computer with nearly any level > of performance and features. There are probably hundreds of thousands of > people who have built PCs this way, and clearly many of them enjoy doing so. > > The K3 kit may lack solder, but it is still a very "hands-on" experience: > > - there are hundreds of parts involved, including modules, controls, > hardware, multi-part enclosure, etc.; the kit takes around 8 hours to > complete > > - the K3 has built-in test equipment that the builder learns about and uses > as they go > > - the builder becomes very aware of the various stages and modules needed > to make a radio, and can delve further into the theory of operation or > schematics if desired > > - modifying or updating the K3 is easier once you've been through the > experience > > Up until the last minute, we worried that we might have a mutiny on our > hands among "full-kit" devotees. But only two of them complained, at least > publicly, so we breathed a huge sigh of relief. You now have the distinction > of being #3 on my list of those who like the idea of building their own > advanced radio completely from scratch, should we ever have the courage to > explore that path :) > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR > > > > On Mar 6, 2011, at 6:54 AM, Alexey Kats wrote: > > Thank you, I agree, the price of basic K3 is in the same range as of >> loaded >> K2 (a bit more, but still comparable). The thing is I like to BUILD stuff, >> and I always compare the cost of buying equipment against the fun of >> building it with my own two hands. >> >> So, when it comes down to cost-to-performance analysis - K3 wins hands >> down. >> It's only when one tries to justify the "kit" form it starts making little >> to no sense unless the only thing is saving the money part. >> > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.
"how do you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations?" It's called generalization. Compare it with Newton's law for gravity - even though the size, shape, and movement of objects does play its role the law is not concerned with them and still adequately describes the effect of gravity. (Let's not start comparison between Newton's law and general relativity.) So, too many unknowns are needed when one wants to calculate the precise effect of something. But they might not be important when one wants to express the relationship between effects, so why not to hide them where they are not needed until the moment comes? On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 2:37 PM, Kevin Rock wrote: > I have always wondered how he condensed the original twenty equations in > twenty unknowns down to just four of them. The quaternions he used > initially were out a favor with the physics community of the day so he > needed to get them into vector form. Heaviside did a good job but how do > you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations? What > has been lost in the translation? >Kevin. KD5ONS > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.
"What Descartes did was a good step. You have added much several ways, and especially in taking the colours of thin plates into philosophical consideration. If I have seen a little further it is by standing on the shoulders of Giants." (Isaac Newton) On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 3:31 PM, David Cutter wrote: > I don't recall that from his biography, I'll have to read it again. > Interesting. > > David > G3UNA > > > > Hi Kevin, > > > > Was not Maxwell that condensed the hard to understand original theory. > > Was some his disciples, aka "The Maxwellians," that finished the theory > > in the present form. FitzGerald, Lodge, and Heavyside plus others. > > > > Am just now reading "The Maxwellians" that has this story. > > > > 73, tom n4zpt > > > > > > > > On 3/6/2011 5:37 PM, Kevin Rock wrote: > >> I have always wondered how he condensed the original twenty equations in > >> twenty unknowns down to just four of them. The quaternions he used > >> initially were out a favor with the physics community of the day so he > >> needed to get them into vector form. Heaviside did a good job but how > do > >> you characterize a system with twenty unknowns in four equations? What > >> has been lost in the translation? > >> Kevin. KD5ONS > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] KR3 SW Receiver.
Well... If it won't get much cheaper than basic K3, what's the point then? I'd rather have K3 with sub-receiver, all the filters I need (or, rather, want) AND with all the features Elecraft wizards put into its firmware. An alternative is to force them to write, test and support two different versions of firmware for two rigs, and at the end both projects can suffer. In other words, I like Elecraft rigs for their excellency in what they do, not for the brand name. On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 10:14 PM, juergen wrote: > > Hi Don > > I was referring to a direct sampling SDR black box. I am sure a direct > sampling receiver with the Elecraft brand name would be a top seller. Lyle > probably has prototypes on his workbench! > > I am also sure that a DUC transmitter from Elecraft would also be a popular > product. > > Direct sampling and DUC transmitters are in all our futures. > > 73 > John > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] X1, X3 & X5 grounding
Steve, Most likely you will not see a difference (unless you spent like 10-30 seconds heating it up with your soldering iron). I don't know which Elecraft kit you are talking about, but consider this. Grounding crystals at the side will give you better decoupling under SOME circumstances (like proper ground plane in the PCB, relatively close and regular location of other crystals around, absence of other sources of signal coupling nearby like another PCB or a signal trace with a strong signal in it). Otherwise you will get so marginal benefit that you will not notice it considering the tolerances of all the parts. Also, sometimes the clearances between different parts are too tight and you simply might not have enough space to ground crystals at the top of the can because the grounding wire would touch some other part otherwise. On the other hand, grounding at the top of the crystal somewhat decreases the chance of overheating said crystal while soldering. Not that it's a problem - it is easily handled if one is proficient with soldering iron (and picks the right tool for the job, i.e. the appropriate wattage/temperature iron), but for inexperienced builder it is safer to ground at the top. Dear readers, please, forgive me the lecturing tone - I felt like goofing out tonight. On Wed, Mar 30, 2011 at 4:51 PM, W6EOD wrote: > I got a little ahead of myself while grounding crystals X1, 3 and 5. I > grounded to the sides. Is this a problem. Should I add wire to take the > ground to the top of the can? > > Steve W6EOD > > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 - LED Diffuser Installation Question
It's indeed "Anode" and "Kathode" (in German). I checked data sheets for similar parts on Mouser and LED backlight panels that have "A" and "K" on them have these leads attached to combined anodes and cathodes of the LED group. See SSB-COB10025GW<http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSB-COB10025GW/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlvmHaYoGmZXTwJQogLTy2wt%2fgFdHF7zk%3d>as an example. On Sat, Apr 2, 2011 at 2:54 AM, Wesley Inouye wrote: > Hi, > > On 9/12/10, Stan wrote: > > "I noticed the LCD backlight assembly is labeled (top down) "A" and "K" > on one side and "K" and "A" on the other side. The corresponding board > positions for D2 and D3 have "+" signs. > > The manual doesn't say anything about polarity or even if there is a > "top" and "bottom" to the diffuser; just to install it and ensure it is > exactly 1/8" off the board using the spacers provided. > > I just wanted to double check with someone who has already been through > this. Do the "A" and "K" have something to do with polarity? These are > little LEDs and normally polarity is important. > Thanks, > > Stan Levandowski WB2LQF" > > > I've reached the same step and have the same question, but for some reason > my reflector search did not list the responses. Thank you in advance for > your help. > > Wes...KH6HRY > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: KSB2 T1/T2 Turns Ratio Question
Here is my guess. If you take a look at K2 schematics you'll notice that the crystal ladder is loaded with a STEP-UP transformer T7 with ratio 5:20. This is needed because it is ultimately loaded with the input of MC1350, which has impedance in the 2.5-3k range. So, two transformers 22:4 and 5:20 give you a total ratio of 1.375 which is approximately 1:1.9 impedance transformation. If your ladder output impedance is 1.5k it'll give you about 2.85k output impedance. So, my guess is that the ratio was chosen to match input of MC1350. On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 3:07 PM, John Magliacane wrote: > Hi Folks. > > I've been perplexed for quite some time as to why RF transformers T1 and T2 > that sit at opposite ends of the crystal ladder filter on the KSB2 board > have different turns ratios. > > T1's turns ratio is 22:7. while T2's is 22:4. > > The impedance of the crystal ladder network appears to be in the > neighborhood of 1200 - 1500 ohms. Since the KSB2 sits inside an IF having a > 150 ohm impedance, T1's 22:7 turns ratio, which performs a 9.87:1 impedance > transformation, makes perfect sense. > > The Balanced Modulator feeds T2's primary with an impedance close to 1200 > ohms, which also makes perfect sense. > > However, T2's secondary, having only 4 turns, presents an output impedance > significantly lower than the 150 ohm IF system it is feeding. > > What's the deal? :-) > > And I ask this question as I troubleshoot a "narrower than expected" > crystal filter response. I'm curious whether the T2 impedance mismatch is > intentional, or something else is going on that I'm not aware of. > > Any relevant enlightenment on the subject would be appreciated. > > Thanks. > > > 73, de John, KD2BD > K2/100 #3563 > -- Alexey Kats (neko) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
