Re: [Elecraft] What I need and meant

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

I use RUMlogNG on a Mac for my logging - I’m still looking for a good
logging program for Linux - CQRLOG is not an option - requires too much
overhead. RUMlog is a good general logger and has a contest mode that
actually works pretty well. It was written and continues to be maintained
and updated by dl2rum - originally for himself. It has become one of the
best loggers that runs on a Mac.

He now has a version specifically made to run on an iPhone or iPad. The
iPad version will also (with the appropriate connection) talk natively to a
K3 or KX3. I haven’t tried the iOS/iPadOS version since I don’t have an
iPad or iPhone anymore (went android but that’s another story) but from
what he has on his website, the iOS version looks pretty good.
https://dl2rum.de/rumsoft/RUMlog2Go.html

73,
Chuck - AA3CS



On Wed, Jun 30, 2021, 14:59 Jim Brown  wrote:

On 6/30/2021 11:32 AM, Cameron wrote:
> This is all being made all too complicated.  The simple solution is to get
> a Microsoft Surface Tablet (running W10) that will be a similar form
factor
> to an iPad, albeit running Windows.

Although I don't live in the Mac world, I'm told that there are decent
logging programs for Ios. Dunno about iPad. Skookum Logger is one I've
seen mentioned.
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Re: [Elecraft] Mac vs K3s - Again

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

If you have a 3rd party FTDI driver installed, that may be part of the
problem. MacOS has had FTDI drivers since at least 10.12. I also would
seriously suggest updating to at least the last update of 10.13; 10.14
would be better.

73,
Chuck, AA3CS

— Engineer:  "If it ain't broke I haven't messed with it enough yet."

On Sat, Jan 23, 2021, 11:50 Richard  wrote:

> Working hard to wean my K3s off a SignaLink and connect it directly via a
> standard A/B USB cable. Results have been frustrating but encouraging. The
> particulars are these.
>
> Mac mini
>Late 2012
>2.5 GHz Intel Core i5
>8 GB RAM
>Running 10.12.6 Sierra
>
> K3s 100
>
> I’m going to try replacing the probably out of date FTDI driver with a new
> driver from SciLabs. Do I need to remove the old FTDI driver before
> installing the new SciLabs driver?
>
> NOTE: I have a grand old IC-706MkIIG now also running WSJT-X 2.2.2 through
> a SignaLink with absolutely no problems. Assuming this setup uses the old
> FTDI driver, dare I risk messing up that setup by changing to the new
> SciLabs driver? I really don’t want to do that.
>
> Replies here are fine but please CC me at flat...@comcast.net
>
> Cheers!
>
> Richard Kunc - W4KBX
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Re: [Elecraft] Subject: The G5RV trivia

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS via Elecraft]

I just looked in some of my old ARRL Handbooks. The earliest I find the chart 
described as “Practical arrangement of a shortened antenna” is in the 1948 
edition of the handbook. The 1944 edition has a very similar chart talking 
about multi band antennas but the description is somewhat different.

73,
Chuck, AA3CS
--
“It's still magic even if you know how it's done.” -- Terry Pratchett

> On 23 Mar 2020, at 21:53, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> The same antenna, although not named the G5RV, is described in the 1956 ARRL 
> Handbook, Chapter 14, page 343.   Fig 14-19 "Practical arrangement of a 
> shortened antenna."It may have been described in an earlier publication, 
> however the 1956 Handbook is the earliest I have for reference.
> 
> The description shows "A" as the length of 1/2 of a dipole where "2A" is the 
> dipole total length and with the total length being less than 1/2 wavelength 
> as shown in table 14-1.  The open wire feed line "B" is then 1/2 of "A".   
> Therefore A + A + B + B becomes the length of the standard 1/2 wave antenna.  
> When the length of A + A is is greater than a 1/4 wavelength the 
> effectiveness of the antenna is not changed.
> 
> Table 14-1 shows the length of the antenna to be 135 ft with a feeder length 
> of 42 ft. covering 3.5 - 28 MHz which uses parallel feed for 3.5 - 21 MHz and 
> series feed for 28 MHz. A shortened version shows the antenna length to 
> be 67 ft with 42.5 ft feedline.  In this case 3.5 MHz is series fed and 7 - 
> 28 MHz is parallel fed.
> 
> Regarding connecting a balanced feed line to the transmitter, Fig 14-21 (B) 
> reference is made to do so using a pair of "balun" coils.   This would imply 
> a proper balun would contain two separate coils existing on two separate 
> cores.   The discussions by W8JI and DJ0IP would imply a single core will not 
> be the correct design although it may contain 4 windings existing on a signal 
> core.   The original Heathkit balun, being two separate air wound dual 
> winding coils would satisfy the requirement.
> 
> Yes, more interesting trivia.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> On 3/23/2020 8:18 PM, Jan wrote:
>> I first learned of the G5RV Antenna back in early 1963 in Malaya ~ as the 
>> Editor for the *M*alayan *A*mateur *R*adio *T*ransmitter *S*ociety's 
>> /NewsLetter/ .   Jim, 9M2DQ (a rubber estate manager) sent me a copy of Mr. 
>> Varney's article; a simple wire antenna that covered 80-40-20-15-10 Meters.
>> 
>> It became a popular antenna in South-East Asia ~ with many using it for 
>> chatting on 14.320 MHz ~ which became the SEA-NET in 1963 and beyond.   I 
>> have fond memories of using it at 9M2JJ for two and a half years at the 
>> Secondary Trade School; where I taught as a Peace Corps Volunteer.
>> 
>> Cheers, Jan K1ND
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Logging software advice

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

I have to agree with Sal, I've tried several Mac logging programs. HamLog is pretty 
darned good on the iPad and iPhone for quick logging when I'm not doing a lot and don't 
want to bother with a computer. But I use MacLoggerDX on my Mac and really like it a lot. 
It isn't a "real" contest logger, but worked quite nicely on Field Day when I 
managed 377 CW QSOs with just me and my K3 running 1E, not terribly seriously. I only had 
the USB/Serial cable connected for frequency/power/mode information for logging and an 
audio cable from the K3's line out to an iMic's input so I could run FLDIGI and run the 
CW decoder there as a backup to my ears...

73,
Chuck, AA3CS

On Jul 01, 2014, at 07:50 AM, Slava Baytalskiy  wrote:

MacLoggerDX and MacLoggerDX HD (for the iPad) are the best loggers i've found 
for my Macs.
Very visual and VERY easy to setup/use.
They don't do rig control besides the normal QSYs when clicking on spots. But 
they do work with a bunch of rotators.
And support from the developer is awesome.
__
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w2...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly OT: Logging programs for the Mac

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

I use MacLoggerDX. I’ve tried RUMLog, it is OK if you can deal with its quirks. 
I tried Aether - it lasted about 30 seconds.

MLDX is a bit quirky, too, but I can live with it. It does OK as a contest 
logger if you’re not a serious contester.

I have used N1MM in a Parallels VM - works just fine.

The Mac versions of the Elecraft utilities work just fine.

I’ve used Cocoa Modem, but frankly I prefer fldigi for the very little digital 
mode work I do, and the Mac version works well.

73,
Chuck, AA3CS

-
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On Jun 19, 2014, at 8:24 PM, Joshua Gould  wrote:

> For those of you that run Macs, what software do you use for logging.
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Re: [Elecraft] Order of updates installation

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

Louis,

DVR, TCXO, then 2nd Rcvr. You have to take the front panel off and apart to put 
in the DVR. The TCXO goes in behind the front metal partition, and the 2nd RX 
takes up the extra space in the middle. If you have any thoughts about adding 
filters, now is the time since to change the filters you have to remove the 2nd 
RX to get to them. 

Chuck
AA3CS

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 6, 2014, at 18:32, Louis Ives  wrote:
> 
> I have a K-3 that I will be updating with the following items, voice 
> recorder, 2nd receiver, TCXO. I need some suggestions for the order in which 
> to install. I don't want to have a installed item to be in the and have to 
> remove more than once.
> 
> PSent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

John,

There are no real issues with installing either the KPA3 or the KAT3. There is 
a shield that is included with the KPA3 kit (I don’t believe it comes with the 
base radio, but it has been 4 years since I built my kit) that might be easier 
to put in before the KAT3. Personally, I’d get them both first but if I could 
only get one, it would be the KAT3.

73,
Chuck
AA3CS
--
“Computers are useless. They can only give you answers.” -- Pablo Picasso

On Feb 21, 2014, at 3:45 PM, John Saxon  wrote:

> I have a K3/10 with no add-ons, and now am ready to get a KPA3 100W amp & 
> KAT3 tuner, to install myself.  I would rather not purchase them at the same 
> time.  Is there a more favorable order to get them?  Amp first or tuner 
> first?  I suspect there may be some construction issues that would favor one 
> over the other to be acquired first.
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> John
> K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Re: filter for those with nearby AM broadcast stations

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

I hate to jump on the 'me-too' bandwagon, but in this case I will. I use either BNC or N 
connectors on everything. Those I can't change from UHF have adapters 
"permanently" installed. All my cables are terminated in BNC, most are crimped. 
I have been making cables for nearly 40 years now and always swore by soldered/clamped 
BNC but recently I've found that the ones that have caused problems are the clamped 
ones... I do prefer clamped ones outside since they are, by default, weathertight as long 
as they are somewhat sheltered.

My K3 (and my former K3) both have the BNC kits from Morse-Express installed. 
Perfect fit and very nicely done. 

Understandably, there is resistance to change since the amateur 'standard' has 
been UHF for so many years, but for size, ease of connect/disconnect, positive 
connection, and reliability, I will take the BNC over UHF any day of the week. 
For high power work or anything over about 4 GHz, the N would be my connector 
of choice. Of course, it is unlikely I'll ever have to worry about high-power 
since my K3 is rarely used above the 10W level and my KX3 has only seen 10W 
into a dummy load...

73,
Chuck - AA3CS

On Dec 19, 2013, at 01:30 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

I use BNC's on virtually -everything- here ... even my Bird 43.

The K3 and both WM2 sensors have been changed to BNC's.

FWIW ... Morse Express sells a nicely-done conversion kit with
adapter plates to fit the BNC to the SO-239's hole. A class act.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 AMP and KXAT100 ATU pics and info

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

I used the OHR connector kits in both my K3s, turning a no-solder kit into a 
very little solder kit. I keep adapters around for those times I don't or can't 
change the UHF connectors to BNC or N, but I swap the UHF anytime I can. BNC 
and N connectors have two additional attributes (beyond being real 50 ohm 
connectors) that are beneficial: they are relatively weatherproof if properly 
assembled, and the ground makes contact before the center conductor.

Just my $0.02

73,
Chuck, AA3CS

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 26, 2013, at 0:44, Walter Underwood  wrote:

> Oak Hills Research sells a similar BNC bulkhead connector that fits in a UHF 
> hole.
> 
> http://www.ohr.com/parts.htm
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Rf connectors inside

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

The RF Connection in Maryland sells them. Look here 
http://www.therfc.com/taiko.htm 

73,
Chuck AA3CS

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 19, 2013, at 22:01, Eduardo González  wrote:

> Thank you David and Gary. Now i'm looking on ebay, rfparts, digikey and
> adafruit but can not find!. I need three pigtails almost 10" using male
> connector on both ends. All radio equipment use this type of connector but
> is not so easy find it :-(
> 
> Edu YY4GMJ
> 
> 
> On Fri, Apr 19, 2013 at 8:57 PM, Gary K9GS  wrote:
> 
>> They are called TMP connectors.  The connectors are very
>> inexpensivethe crimp tool to properly install them, not so much.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 4/19/2013 8:00 PM, Eduardo González wrote:
>> 
>>> Does anyone know the name of coaxial cable connectors inside the K3? I'm
>>> looking for this type of connectors for a project.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Edu YY4GMJ
>>> __**__**__
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>> --
>> 
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Gary K9GS
>> 
>> Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
>> Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
>> CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org
>> 
>> **
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SWR & S meter not functioning

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

Sounds like you may have turned off the AGC - assuming you are hearing signals 
but just seeing no meter movement.

73, Chuck AA3CS

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 30, 2012, at 7:11, Gary Smith  wrote:

> I am working the Stew Perry test and noticed my indicator for SWR & S 
> meter stopped not working and that is the same on all bands. If I 
> adjust the RF control I can see the level indicated but there is no 
> sign of Rf life. I turned off the radio & back on but this persists. 
> Is there something I may have bumped to have stopped the display from 
> indicating any values?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gary
> KA1J
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft KX3 and Mac

[Chuck Shefflette - AA3CS]

I tried Rumlog/Rumped and wasn't overly thrilled. I use MacLoggerDX for my 
regular daily logging; I use the N1MM logger with Parallels in a Windows7 VM 
for contest logging if I am playing a contest MLDX doesn't support since it 
directly supports a lot more contests. MLDX makes a good "light" contest logger 
and will work with most contests if you aren't interested in a running score or 
some of the other "neat" features of the dedicated contest loggers. Don Agro 
(MLDX's author) provides wonderful support and there is a very active Yahoo 
group dedicated to it.

Chuck
AA3CS

On 13 Aug 2012, at 19:10, Mike Weir  wrote:

> 
> My KX3 is on order and should be in around October according to the latest 
> Elecraft shipping dates. I have the K3 running on Windows and it works great. 
> My wife has given me an Imac desktop with the 27 inch screen (she is 
> fantastic and spoils me). I want to run the KX3 on the Mac but was wanting to 
> get the reflectors input on which software to use. I have seen Rumlog and 
> RumPed as well as MacloggerDX. I understand MacloggerDX cost some $$ but I am 
> willing to spend the money if the program is right for the KX3. So what are 
> you folks using out there.have I missed something? At VE3WDM I mainly am 
> involved with CW contesting and CW DXing. Not into digi at all except WSPR 
> sometimes. Looking for your feedback...
> Mike
> VE3WDM
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RS232 Connection

[Chuck Shefflette]

The key is "Error opening serial port" - has it ever worked. Check the pull 
down box in the K3 utility and make sure you select the USB Serial port and not 
a Bluetooth or other serial. If that doesn't work, make sure you have 
downloaded and installed the latest driver for the USB to serial cable. 

73,
Chuck - AA3CS

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 5, 2012, at 22:07, David Guernsey  wrote:

>  "Error opening serial port".  It won't connect to either the K3 Utility or 
> MacLoggerDX. 
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Re: [Elecraft] SSB Bandwiedth adjust

[Chuck Shefflette]

Sounds like you need to check the TX Equalizer settings. Tap Menu and scroll to 
TX EQ. There are 8 EQ bands. Many people seem to have good luck with bands 1&2 
set to -16, bands 3-7 around 0, and band 8 at -6 or so. Select each band by 
tapping 1-8 and adjust using the VFO  A knob.

More information is on page 35 of the K3 manual.

73,
Chuck - AA3CS

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 23, 2012, at 8:33, ac8jd  wrote:

> how to adjust the TX SSB bandwidth.  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> AC8JD
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] MCU 4.51

[Chuck Shefflette]

Umm, me? But that's likely to change once I actually order a KX-3 since that 
means getting rid of one of my K3s...

-
73 - Chuck - AA3CS

On May 14, 2012, at 13:29, Fred Jensen  wrote:

> Is there a member of this list that is *not* in a hurry?

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Re: [Elecraft] New KAT500 pics from the Visalia DX convention

[Chuck Shefflette]

Oak Hills Research sells a kit with a female BNC and a punched plate sized to 
fit in place of a SO-239 for $5.00 each or two for $7.50. I have them on both 
of my K3s and quite a few other places in the shack. The ones that haven't been 
replaced wear adapters to BNC, all my cables are BNC... That reminds me, I've 
got to yoder a few more...

Chuck - AA3CS

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 24, 2012, at 19:24, "David Ferrington, M0XDF"  
wrote:

> Is there an option to replace the SO239s on my K3 with BNCs?
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On 25 Apr 2012, at 00:15, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
>> The 500 volts peak translates to 1250 watts at an SWR = 1.0, but the 
>> 1,500 V rms translates into 45 kW (also at SWR = 1.0)  if my calculator 
>> is correct.   In ant case, BNC connectors do not have a problem at the 
>> 500 watt level unless the SWR is high.
>> 
>> On 4/24/2012 6:57 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>>> BNC's can handle kilowatts of RF efficiently at reasonable SWRs. After all,
>>> the popular type N is simply a BNC with a screw-on outer shell.
>>> 
>>> Decent quality BNCs (e.g. Amphenol) are rated at 500 volts peak with a
>>> dielectric that will handle 1,500 V rms. That's 5 KW into 50 ohms, if my
>>> brain is working correctly, so they should handle the legal limit for US
>>> Hams into any reasonable SWR.
>>> 
>>> Ron AC7AC
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] BNC jumpers? (Thanks)

[Chuck Shefflette]

The question is, can you get RG-316? Same size as 174 but higher power handling 
capacity and tougher jacket. 

Chuck - AA3CS

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 8, 2012, at 10:55, "Joe Subich, W4TV"  wrote:

> 
> The winner seems to be Cables on Demand www.cablesondemand.com with
> L-Com http://www.l-com.com/productcenter.aspx?ID=8 a strong second.
> 
> Both have RG-58 or RG-174 cables at reasonable prices.  L-Com offers
> cables at any length - in 6" increments to 3 feet and one foot steps
> beyond that - while Cables on Demand does not have quite the choice
> of lengths but are slightly (5 to 7%) less expensive.
> 
> Right angle BNC connectors are also available from either vendor for
> either RG-174 or RG-58.
> 
> 73,
> 
>... Joe, W4TV
> 
> 
> On 4/6/2012 2:32 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone have a source for quality *50 Ohm* BNC jumpers - like that
>> supplied with the P3 - at a reasonable price?  I can't find them
>> locally and the ones at places like All Electronics are of poor
>> quality/intermittent, etc.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> ... Joe, W4TV
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] BNC jumpers?

[Chuck Shefflette]

I make them myself, I haven't found a source that is reasonably priced. Then 
again, I use BNC or N connectors on everything...
Chuck, AA3CS
Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 6, 2012, at 14:32, "Joe Subich, W4TV"  wrote:

> 
> Anyone have a source for quality *50 Ohm* BNC jumpers - like that
> supplied with the P3 - at a reasonable price?  I can't find them
> locally and the ones at places like All Electronics are of poor
> quality/intermittent, etc.
> 
> 73,
> 
>... Joe, W4TV
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones

[Chuck Shefflette]

Although I don't have hearing issues serious enough to warrant hearing aids, I 
do like wearing headphones and spent quite a while finding any that were as 
comfortable as the multi-hundred dollar ones we used to use in the military 
years ago. I settled on a Yamaha CM-500 headset as I do a fair amount of phone 
and CW. I used them on Field Day this year - the first time I had used them for 
more than a short period since I purchased them. I have to say that the audio 
was wonderful and they were very comfortable. The CM-500 microphone works very 
well. I use the same TX equalizer settings I use for the Elecraft hand mic and 
have received several unsolicited reports of very good audio which is even more 
satisfying since much of my work is, by choice, QRP or at least power levels 
below 25W.

For about $50, the Yamaha headset is certainly worth a look.

73, Chuck - AA3CS

On 10 Jul 2011, at 13:46, Edward R. Cole wrote:

> Lew and Bill,
> 
> You are both lucky if you can wear headphones without using your 
> hearing aids to copy signals well.  I am nearly deaf without 
> mine.  Increasing volume does not add comprehension.  My hearing is 
> <35 dB in both ears with roll off to nothing above 800-Hz.
> 
> But I use a pair of Sony stereo headphones MDR-V600 that have a soft 
> cuff the covers the ears completely.  My hearing aids are Phonic 
> Silvia over-the-ear models with two mics for noise cancelling (spendy 
> - cost $2600/ea.).  But they do not feedback when I wear 
> headphones.  When I fly I wear a pair of Bose nose-cancelling 
> headphones.  They do have a T-coil mode for use with telephones but I 
> find that it does not work well.  At home we have Panasonic 5-GHz 
> cordless phones with speakerphone.  That works very 
> nice.  Fortunately, I do not work the 5760 MHz ham band.
> 
> My problem is if I wear the headphones for hours there is some 
> physical discomfort from the headphones pressing my ear and hearing 
> aid, so I often remove the hearing aids when flying.  Of course then 
> my hearing is about -60dB and I hear nothing.
> 
> I have followed the critiques on the reflector for headset-boom mics 
> but have not bought any.  Mostly the reports are on audio performance 
> and not comfort.
> 
> 73, Ed - KL7uW
> --
> 
> Message: 31
> Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 23:12:35 -0700
> From: Lew Phelps K6LMP 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Headphones
> To: Elecraft Reflector 
> Message-ID: <18fdeddb-af29-4b5b-a6a6-8acd07ded...@me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
> 
> I recently began wearing hearing aids myself, so I know what you're 
> going through. You have to remove hearing aids to use conventional 
> headphones, or else you get audio feedback screeching. When you 
> remove hearing aids, if you're like most people, you lose ability to 
> hear higher frequencies, which is the range in which consonants 
> reside, and from which we discern the meaning of speech. (vowels are 
> about 300-600 Hz, but we don't extract much meaning from vowel sounds.)
> 
> As a first step, adjust the audio receive profile to give a some 
> boost to frequencies up to 1kHz and a lot of boost to higher 
> frequencies.. This will offset the increased hearing loss at higher 
> frequencies that most people with hearing loss experience, and 
> restore ability to discern consonants.  Unfortunately, this also can 
> increase background noise levels.
> 
> IF that doesn't do the job, other possible solutions include:
> 
> 1. Hearing aid compatible headphones such as the Geemarc CLA3 Hearing 
> Aid Compatible Headset (haven't tried)
> 2. Bluetooth adapter. Many modern hearing aids have Bluetooth 
> connectivity, so you can use them as headphones with a Bluetooth 
> headset dongle. Google on "bluetooth audio dongle 3.5" and you'll 
> come up with quite a few, ranging in price from about #$20 to $40, 
> that will plug into the headset jack and convert the audio output to 
> a Bluetooth signal, which you can hear directly through any Bluetooth 
> enabled hearing aid.  I haven't tried this, but I plan to do obtain 
> one very soon.
> 3. Have you tried speakers and hearing aids combined? If that doesn't 
> work, your hearing aids probably need adjustment or replacement.
> 4.  If you want to use conventional headphones without your hearing 
> aids, put a small stereo amplifier inline between line out  output of 
> your rig and your headphones. Preferably, use an amp with equalizer 
> controls, and boost the higher frequencies commensurate with your 
> hearing loss profile.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Lew K6LMP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
> ==
> BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
> EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-?
> DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
> ==
> 
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[Elecraft] K3 at Field Day

[Chuck Shefflette]

The Anne Arundel Radio Club once again convened for Field Day in Davidsonville, 
MD on Saturday. This year was going to be very different. In years past we have 
had one K3 in the CW tent and none anywhere else. This year I brought my two 
K3s along for the CW shelter and three other club members brought their K3s 
(and one P3) along for the HF SSB shelter. Sadly, two of the three SSB K3s went 
home with their owners late Saturday evening, being replaced by Kenwood rigs. 
The two in the CW shelter were accompanied by a Kenwood TS870. The three CW 
operators were busy, with the K3s manned most of the 24 hours. Together we made 
just over 1000 contacts on CW between the three of us, most of them on the K3s. 
The SSB guys made just over 1100 contacts between 6 radios - they've got to 
work harder next year!

Both of my K3s were well used over the 24 hours with no problems except for a 
couple of unseated power cables (from someone moving a rig or dropping 
something on the cable...) The radios got rave reviews and the CW memories 
received extensive use. We did notice that on a couple of occasions we could 
very clearly hear the second harmonic from the 40M K3 on the 20M K3 which could 
be understandable since they were both connected to Vee beams that were only 
about 150' apart and oriented N/S and E/W but I'm going to take a good look at 
the output signals from both of them before they go back on the air here.

I did most of my operating (I sat a position probably 18 or 19 out of 24 hours) 
with my "newer" rig that I purchased from a fellow ham after a lightning 
incident did a fair amount of damage to it. Some of you may remember reading 
about K3 #4407 - it required a new DSP, an MCU replacement, and an new KIO3 but 
that seems to have been the only damage to it and it works wonderfully now. We 
managed to work a lot of stations that were barely audible but able to be 
pulled out with the use of the K3's great DSP and filters.

One of the highlights of the "day" came late morning on Sunday. We were still 
missing Alaska to complete the US sections. I was working my way through 20M on 
the West facing Vee beam when I heard KL7AA faintly. I stopped and tried 
several times to work him - he got part of the station call but we just 
couldn't quite hook up (he must not have been using a K3 there :0) I called 
over to the other K3 position and had him move from 40M to 20M to try KL7AA 
using the North Vee beam. He managed to get him first try. We listened for a 
bit afterward with the Kenwood but couldn't hear anything but noise even though 
we could clearly hear him with both K3s. Everyone that was there at the time 
was suitably impressed and I suspect there may be one or two K3 sales out of 
the adventure.

Sitting at one of our meals, we were discussing Elecraft products and I 
happened to mention the KX3 - there was also some interest in that as well.

The bottom line is that everyone that touched any of the K3s at AARC, whether 
on phone or CW, was very impressed with them. They proved themselves in a 
fairly rough 10A situation where we (the CW ops) were sitting directly in the 
path of the phone ops' West facing 20/40M Vee beam and didn't even blink! Can't 
wait till next year so we can do it again! Now both of them will get a nice 
rest since I run about 50% QRP here at the house and seldom run them over 50W 
except for short periods.

73 & 72,

Chuck - AA3CS

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Re: [Elecraft] Digital software compatibility

[Chuck Shefflette]

Personally, I use the knobs on the front panel for control of the rig. I use 
MacLoggerDX for logging (connected to the rig so it gets frequency/power 
automagically) and CocoaModem for what little PSK/RTTY I do. For me the 
computer is just another tool that happens to connect to the radio...

73,
Chuck - AA3CS

On 19 Jun 2011, at 18:26, Don Putnick wrote:

> Kok Chen W7AN develops high-quality freeware on the Mac side of the house, 
> cocoaModem for the digital modes for example. Unfortunately he doesn't have 
> rig control software. What are people using for the Mac/K3 combination, short 
> of running Windows apps under Wine?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 shutdown

[Chuck Shefflette]

Check your power connections. It sounds like you may have a loose connection 
that is OK in receive but as soon as transmit current starts to flow the 
voltage drops low enough to shut off the K3.

73,
Chuck - AA3CS

On 27 May 2011, at 11:25, John/K8AZT wrote:

> My K3 sn1693 has just started exhibiting a troubling problem.  Operation in 
> CW 
> when I put key down, the rig shuts off completely.  When turning back on, it 
> forgets frequency that was set just prior to shut down.  I thought this might 
> be 
> rf in shack, so tried with dummy load and same problem.
> 
> Any suggestions or has anyone else experienced this behavior?
> 
> 73,
> John/K8AZT
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/10

[Chuck Shefflette]

Steve,

You've gotten a lot of great replies. I've got 2 K3/100s here but I rarely run 
either of them over 50W, more often 10W or below SSB and CW (I'm still working 
on getting proficient with CW but I am trying!). I dabble a bit with PSK and 
that I run 4-5W. A good (or even moderately good) antenna will make up for a 
lack of power. More often than not, some of the bigger guns with their big 
antennas will be able to pull a QRP station out fairly easily. I would suggest 
that you get the K3/10 with the built-in ATU - I'm sure there are better ATUs 
out there, but I've been quite successful tuning most anything I can hook up to 
the radio. The only thing I've found I really can't tune is an ocf dipole cut 
for 80M on 160M - I resort to a manual MFJ for that!

Welcome back to the hobby, I was out for a very long time and sort of jumped in 
with both feet but I'm having a great time of it.

73 and hope to cu on the air,
Chuck - AA3CS
On 16 May 2011, at 12:12, Steve Coates wrote:

> With Hamvention this week I am thinking it is time to get an HF rig. I
> have been out of radio for a good number of years and looking to get
> back in. With the money limits I have the 10w K3 would be the only
> option and I would add features as funds were available.
> 
> I understand the technical differences between 100w and 10w but I am
> looking for input on the practical side of things. What should I
> expect when running 10w? My CW is so rusty I really can't go there
> right away, so I would be most interested in digital modes and SSB.
> 
> I will have some kind of multi-band dipole for an antenna.
> 
> Steve
> N8JAF
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Receiver desense?

[Chuck Shefflette]

I'm betting the battery voltage was low enough that the alternator voltage 
couldn't get it stable, the bigger battery took care of the regulation and 
everything was happy.

73,
Chuck AA3Cs
On 04 Apr 2011, at 19:40, Fred Jensen wrote:

> Hmmm ...
> 
> Not that I'm suggesting you try and recreate the "experiment" Jeff, all 
> sorts of undesirable electrical effects occur on the 12V power in a 
> vehicle when you start it, but possibly some sort of transient scrambled 
> the K3.  I shouldn't do it, but I often start my truck with the ICOM 
> IC-4300H still on.  About half the time it reboots, the other half it is 
> fine.  I think the factory recommended method to shut down your K3 is, 
> "Turn it off," then do whatever you want to with the power supply.  Just 
> a thought.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011
> - www.cqp.org
> 
> On 4/4/2011 4:06 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
> 
>> Whilst parked up in the car and with the K3 running on 15M during CQ WW SSB 
>> I noticed that the display lights were flickering alot on TX, indicating to 
>> me that maybe it was time to start the engine to increase voltage to the rig.
>> Received sigz at the time were plentiful (crowded) and loud, the band was 
>> wide open.
>> So, I started the engine and all sigz but for a couple of what used to be 
>> loud signals had disappeared!
>> The really loud sigz I had heard before were considerably reduced in volume 
>> and signal strength.
>> I checked the NB and NR settings and found that both noise blankers were 
>> both turned off as was noise reduction off.
>> I tried both NB's and neither were of any use.
>> There was no type of noise heard on the radio at all apart from the usual 
>> (low down) band noise.
>> All the above was noted when I was using the cars own battery / power system.
>> 
>> I shut down the engine and all sigz came back to normal.
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Re: [Elecraft] What made you decide on purchasing an Elecraft transceiver?

[Chuck Shefflette]

After being exposed to Collins and other tube equipment in the early 70s then 
being away until 2008, I started again with an Ft-897d and picked up an 
FT-901DM that needed a lot of work. One of our club members brought his K3 to 
Field Day in 2009. I spent about 8 hours running the K3 operating 20M CW  and 
the other 16 using various Kenwoods in a 10A operation. I decided then and 
there that I had to have one. The K3 was worlds above the club supplied 
Kenwoods and my 897 as well. One thing led to another and I bought K3 #4072 in 
kit form and love it.

In the middle of 2010 I picked up #4407 after it had suffered a lightning 
strike. I hoped that I'd be able to salvage at least the filters. To my 
surprise, most of the radio worked. After replacing the obviously destroyed 
KIO3 and did some troubleshooting by swapping boards between the two, it was 
obvious the front panel had a problem - the TX pin on the MCU was being held 
high. Support at Elecraft was wonderful during the troubleshooting exercise and 
did a wonderful job repairing the front panel. The DSP ended up needing 
replacement as well. Now I have two fully operational K3s to keep the 901 
company. The 897 is in the hands of another new ham.

If this had been one of the big 3's radios, I'm sure the repair bill would have 
exceeded the cost of a new radio and I would probably have used it for parts. 
Instead, for a fraction of the cost of a new K3, I have a fully operational 
second K3. I give credit to all the staff at Elecraft, not only for the 
wonderful design but for their help in getting 4407 working again.

Since we were planning a trip to the West Coast about the time the front panel 
repair was complete, I made a stop into the Elecraft office in Watsonville a 
part of the trip. It was great to meet everyone there, see the KPA500 on the 
bench and pick up the front panel and DSP while I was there.

Hats off to Elecraft. I will certainly pick up some more of the mini modules 
and am considering one of their smaller radios for really portable operation.

73,

Chuck - AA3CS

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Waterfall

[Chuck Shefflette]

This is because the P3 waterfall is taken from the IF output. The notch is done 
with the DSP on the 15KHz IF, not the 8215KHz IF.

Chuck - AA3CS
On 21 Jan 2011, at 08:15, W4GRJ wrote:

> This is more a educational question. When using the manual notch to take out
> a constant carrier, I can see the notch take out the carrier on the DSM780
> waterfall however, the carrier is still visible on the P3 waterfall. Just
> wondering why you can't see the same notch effect in the P3 waterfall.
> Thanks,
> Jack
> W4GRJ
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: options to buy: a summary of what I learnt from you all...

[Chuck Shefflette]

John,

It sounds like you've made some very good choices. I have 2 K3s sitting on my 
desk. One has the high-stability oscillator, one doesn't. I don't see any 
noticeable difference in stability or frequency accuracy between them. As for 
filters, one has a 2.7 KHz and the other a 2.8 KHz. Once again, I don't really 
see any difference but with your idea of potentially adding the second 
receiver, then the 8-Pole filters make good sense. I would strongly urge you to 
go ahead with the KXV3A, it isn't just for the P3. You need this if you want to 
use the external 6M preamp or a transverter, it gives you an IF output, adds a 
dedicated receive antenna input which can be useful at times, and gives you the 
possibility to have a low-level RF output that isn't band limited so you can 
use the K3 as an HF signal generator. Just a thought, no matter what you'll 
love your new toy!

73 and hope to catch you on the air,
Chuck - AA3CS

On 07 Jan 2011, at 07:50, VK7JB wrote:

> 
> Hello All,
> 
> A couple of people have asked me to post a summary to share what I learnt
> from my question about options for a new K3.  I received 25 replies, many
> were off-list emails, offering well considered ideas and advice.  I was 
> surprised at how generously people offered their time and their thoughts on
> this question, often sharing considerable detail about their own experience
> of loading their K3.
> 
> People tailored their responses to my situation - I'm a casual operator of
> CW/SSB/data modes, working in a location where I rarely, if ever, have to
> contend with crowded bands and heavy QRM.  
> 
> So bearing that in mind, here's what I learned:
> 
> # Unanimously, folks suggested I NOT bother with the high stability
> reference oscillator.
> 
> #The auto ATU option was thought a good investment - for various reasons.
> 
> # There was strong support for the Digital Voice Recorder option and for
> putting in the KXV3A option during the initial build, to avoid significant
> dis-assembly of the K3 when/if I want to add on the P3 panadapter in the
> future.  Several folks mentioned how useful they'd found their DVR,
> especially as a "voice saver" calling CQ.
> 
> # About filters options:
> There was a concensus of opinion that the 2.8 8 pole / 2.7 5 pole swap
> wouldn't be of benefit in my situation and that I should just go with the
> 2.7 / 5 pole stock filter.  Several people suggested I should invest in the
> 6khz filter to allow AM TX and broadcast band RX and ESSB.  A couple of
> people volunteered they had installed the 15khz FM filter, but rarely used
> it and thought I could do without that option.  Many people commented on the
> effectiveness of the DSP filtering in the K3 and suggested that for the
> casual CW I do, that would be enough.  Several others suggested I go with a
> 400 or 500hz filter, but that I could wait and add them later if I found I
> needed them.  I got the feeling that the narrower 2.1/1.8 khz filters for
> SSB weren't seen to be a big priority in my situation:  only a couple of
> folks mentioned them in passing and only one K3 owner said he found them
> very useful for everyday SSB.  
> 
> All this seemed like very sensible advice to me.
> 
> So what am I going to do?
> 
> Well,  I've decided to NOT take the TCXO high stability ref oscillator.  I
> WILL install the DVR and General coverage BPF options.  
> 
> I've decided NOT to put in the KXV3A until I'm ready to get the panadapter. 
> I don't mind dismantling the K3 when that day arrives and I'd like to invest
> that money in other features initially.  Having the KXV3A in the K3 from the
> beginning won't give me any more immediate enjoyment of the K3, nor any
> extra bits to play with, so I've decided it will wait.
> 
> As for the filters:
> 
> I've decided that I probably WILL do the 2.8 for 2.7 swap and install 8 pole
> filters from the beginning.  One K3 owner pointed out that if I do that, I
> won't have to swap out, or worry about matching, the 5 pole filters in the
> future if/when I come to install the subreceiver.  That seemed sensible to
> me, so I'll put in the 8 pole Inrad filters from the beginning and be done
> with it.  The only additional filter I'll order initially is the 6khz, 8
> pole, to allow better SW broadcast reception and to allow me to experiement
> with wider-bandwidth SSB Tx.  I'll see,  over time, whether or not I need a
> 400hz filter for CW.
> 
> So that's it.  Thanks again everyone.  I just have to sell a rig here to
> generate some extra funds, then I'll plant my paw on the "Add to Cart"
> button and the deal will be done.
> 
> 73,
> 
> John
> VK7JB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KAT3 Antenna Tuner Question- Update

[Chuck Shefflette]

If I remember correctly, there is a procedure in the K3 manual for manually 
setting the L and C values in the ATU. However, if all you're really interested 
in is getting the VSWR readings, then all you need do do is turn your power way 
down (2-3 W is enough), set the ATU to bypass (press and hold the ATU TUNE 
button), then press and hold the TUNE button. The VSWR will be displayed in the 
VFO-A display if my memory serves me correctly. This is outlined in the book as 
well but it may not be immediately obvious. Personally, I have set the TUN PWR 
to 2.5W in the config menu so I don't have to keep adjusting my power to do a 
quick antenna check. You might also try K3-EZ. It has a neat VSWR plotting 
routine.

I've seen 99:1 readings on very badly mismatched antennas and/or open 
connections which is one reason I keep my TUNE PWR set low. The default setting 
is "NOR" which uses whatever setting you have for transmit power...

73 And hope to catch you on the air

Chuck - AA3CS

Sent from my iPhone

>> 
>> 
>> 1) Where can I find detailed instructions for using the KAT3?  Such  as, 
>> step by step instructions on how to use the "manual" tuning option.
>> 
>> 2) I'm tuning an Inverted L antenna and the initial SWR is higher  than 
>> maximum SWR LED level as all lights are lit.  (so I have no idea what  the 
>> actual SWR is)  Is there a way to get an actual SWR or Reflected Power  
>> 
>> reading via the KAT3?  
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Re: [Elecraft] Happy Day, I just ordered my K3 and P3

[Chuck Shefflette]

Glad to hear you're finally getting it. I know you've been waiting. Somehow I
ended up with 2 K3s - the second was a lightning victim which I've since
fixed and works very nicely. (Thanks to Elecraft for replacing the MCU as it
had a little issue!)

73 - Chuck - AA3CS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AGC dead spot

[Chuck Shefflette]

Guy,

Actually, the RF gain control does have an affect on the analog, as does the
AGC. There are 2 types of AGC in the K3, the first is the more obvious that
is controlled by the AGC Slow/Fast/Off and the second is a hardware AGC that
protects the A/D converters. The "normal" AGC is summed with the hardware
AGC to control the gain of the IF amplifier that immediately precedes the
2nd mixer stage. The "normal" AGC is also more than likely used in some of
the DSP calculations but that is a little less obvious to the outside
observer.

The Pre and Att controls, on the other hand, have real effects on the
electronics. The Pre is used to switch the PIN diodes that control the
signal path through our around the 11 dB RF Pre-amplifer stage. The Att
switches relay K10 which physically switches in and out a 10 dB attenuator
circuit.

Granted, all these controls result from switch presses (the Att/Pre) or the
A/D results of the RF gain pot that are decoded by the MCU and transmitted
to the appropriate control circuits, but they do really have an affect on
the radio's operation, not just in the software.

However, you are right when you say this isn't a traditional analog radio,
at least beyond the 2nd IF stage!

73,
Chuck, AA3CS
K3 #s 4072 & 4407


Guy, K2AV wrote:
> 
> The thing to note here, this ain't your daddy's analog radio, the only
> actual "stage gain" adjustments you have are ATT and PRE.  The rest is
> all in the numbers, as the front panel knobs are just numerical advice
> to the firmware.  They don't directly control anything.
> 
> ...
> 

-
73 - Chuck, AA3CS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #4407 - dead; Long Live 4638!

[Chuck Shefflette]

K3 #4407 is currently in the ICU on my bench, alongside K3 #4072, my original
K3. The interesting is that the strike doesn't appear to have been through
the antenna, there is no evidence anywhere in the RF path of any damage.
Rather it seems that the entry point was the RS-232 connector since the
major damage was to the KIO3 board - the RS-232 driver chip is missing its
top! I have a new DSP and KIO3 coming from Aptos and the front panel board
left today for repairs. Aside from that, I put the front panel and KIO3 from
#4072 onto 4407 and it seems to work, more once I get the FP back from
Aptos.

I have to send great thanks to the team at Elecraft, I've traded emails with
several of them this week and they have all been very helpful and
encouraging. Hopefully #4407 will be back on the air by next weekend and
take its place next to #4072!

As a side note, for anyone who read Joel Hallas' (W1ZR) review of the K3
accessories in the August QST, contrary to what he says, the Oak Hills BNC
conversion kits work just fine in a K3 with the KAT3. I have two of them
with all BNC connectors sitting on my bench!


Phil Hystad-3 wrote:
> 
> Gary, the one thing I want to know is how did you create that lightning
> strike?
> 
> On Aug 27, 2010, at 3:54 AM, Gary Dezern wrote:
> 
>> Had a visit from the Santa Clause in Brown (UPS man) today.  Kit 4638 is 
>> spread in front of me and I'm doing the part inventory!
>> 
> 
> 

-
73 - Chuck, AA3CS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SN # 4072, first impressions

[Chuck Shefflette]

Now with another evening in the books, I'm even more impressed. 20M was open
to the west coast and I heard John - N6JW - working stations so I managed to
get him. First call was with 25W, I was at his noise level so I bumped it up
to 75W and we talked for a few minutes. He helped me through adjusting Mic
gain and compression for a bit better results, thanks John! I didn't have
any hardware issues with the build but the kit was short 1 set of
instructions - they packed an extra set of KAT3 instructions with the KPA3
instead of the KPA3 instructions, fortunately I had downloaded a copy so I
used them off the computer for the KPA3 install. I did not install the
"standard" SO-239 antenna connectors, I swapped them out for BNCs which I
much prefer. Too bad Elecraft does not offer that as an option, I would have
elected to go that route. All in all, a fine radio and I'm sure I'll be
learning about it daily!


-
73 - Chuck, AA3CS
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[Elecraft] K3 SN # 4072, first impressions

[Chuck Shefflette]

I received kit #4072 on Thursday, opened the box and made sure it looked like
it was all there. Unpacked and inventoried on Friday evening, started the
assembly. I finished the assembly on Saturday, 20 March, and was quite happy
when it ran through all its calibrations and was able to even receive WWV at
15 MHz with about 20' of wire stuck in the Ant1 jack. After fine adjusting
the VCO with a real antenna I put it on the air. Even though I bought the
100W finals, so far I haven't used them except for calibration. I've had
quite satisfactory QSOs with Sweden, Holland, Spain, and Scotland, all using
10W or less on SSB on 20, 17, and 15 meters with a 20/40M drooping dipole
(well, almost an inverted vee) hanging at about 21 feet. The receiver is
wonderful, the transmitter seems to work as nicely as any I've used, and the
built-in tuner will probably tune a wet noodle! All in all, I'm very happy
and look forward to many years with this rig!

73 from Chuck, AA3CS

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