Re: [Elecraft] K3 Speaker, Season finale

2013-04-24 Thread George A. Thornton
I was fortunate to find a used pair of Sounds Sweet speakers for an excellent 
price at a recent fleamarket.  

I have to say they are well worth the trouble and expense if you can find them. 
  They are not amplified so there is no interference, and they sound 
marvelously clear and rich.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 10:46 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Speaker, Season finale

On 4/23/2013 8:44 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> And last but not least, what is the science of designing a transceiver with 
> so many advanced features if the output product, the sound coming out of the 
> speaker, is mediocre at best?

As a retired audio professional (Fellow of the Audio Engineering Society), ham 
for 55 years, and contester since 1957, I have several thoughts on this 
question.

1) The science of loudspeaker design, while well understood, is so far removed 
from the science of building high quality radio transceivers that it makes no 
sense for a small company like Elecraft to devote their limited engineering 
resources to designing and building one.

2) For any serious operating, I've always used headphones.  I use a loudspeaker 
only for casual operation, and for monitoring while I'm in the shack doing 
somethings else.

3) The "ideal" loudspeaker for ham radio is nothing more or less than one that 
has very smooth, uniform ("flat) frequency response in the range of 200 - 4,000 
Hz, maintains that uniformity over a wide range of angles where the listener is 
likely to have his/her ears. It should either be sufficiently efficient that it 
can be made loud enough by the relatively small speaker amplifiers in the K3, 
or it should have its own internal power amplifier.

The problem with loudspeakers having internal power amplifiers is that nearly 
all I have seen, including some rather expensive pro models, have serious RFI 
problems.

Loudspeakers that are relatively small tend to have smooth response over wider 
angles, but they also tend to be less efficient (that is, they take a bit more 
power to drive).

Bottom line -- Elecraft made exactly the right decision to stay out of the 
loudspeaker business. If you want an outboard loudspeaker for ANY ham rig, 
simply look in the pro audio world for one that has flat response, sensitivity 
of at least 80 dBSPL for 1 watt at 1 meter, and fits on your operating desk.  
Look for audio products, not radio products. The best I know of is the RCF 
MR55, which is made in Italy and distributed worldwide. I've used them in some 
very high quality professional installations.

http://www.rcf.it/products/installed-sound-systems/monitor-series/mr-55

Exception -- for many years, Motorola has marketed some small loudspeakers 
designed for use with their commercial VHF/UHF transceivers that works well for 
ham radio.

73, Jim k9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Need help to justify desired purchase :=)

2012-02-24 Thread George A. Thornton
Two other points.

For six meters, I currently don't have a separate six meter antenna.
>From what I have heard what little is going on with six meters would not
justify the additional expense.  Plus you can add it to your K2 using a
transverter.

The two meter option will cost you $299 for the internal two meter unit
plus $119 for the KXV3a option.  That is considerably more expensive
than vhf or even uhf/vhf FM radios.  Unless you want to do weak signal
or all mode work on two meters, you will not want to incur the extra
expense.  Standard FM transceivers are better set up for working FM
repeaters because their menus and buttons make operation in this mode
easier.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Clay
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 9:18 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Need help to justify desired purchase :=)

Hi.

Been thinking about getting a K3.  Have been an extremely pleased
builder-ower of a K2-100 for several years now.  Listening to it now,
and it is a real pleasure!

To be honest, for HF hamming, the K2-100 (w/DSP module) is just fine for
me.  The K3's addition of 6 meters, and more importantly for me, and
ability to add 2 meters are a plus, but PROBABLY not enough alone to
justify the hefty price of ownership.  

What's going to justify the purchase for me, nor not, is the ability to
use the K3 as SWL tool. Knowing that a lots been written on the
Reflector in the past on this subject, I'd really like to have some
opinions from owners of the latest versions of the K3 on its performance
receiving broadcast stations.  Specifically, I'm interested in the
current state of the K3's receive audio bandwidth, distortion, and other
similar performance characteristics, and in the performance of its
Synchronous AM detection.

One way of getting at this would be for me to know how the K3 would
compare performance-wise (especially audio performance-wise) to some of
the more popular SW receivers, e.g. the Drake R8 series, the Icom R-75,
etc., or to other transceivers lauded for their receive audio
performance (e.g., the old Kenwood TS-870).

Thanks!
Paul
N6LQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Need help to justify desired purchase :=)

2012-02-24 Thread George A. Thornton
I don't do much shortwave listening, but I have had the opportunity to
directly compare receive performance between the K3 with general
coverage receiver option, the K2 and the venerable Kenwood TS-930s. I am
also solely into voice.

My general point is the difference between hearing and not hearing a
small increase in receiver quality can make a major difference.
Comparing the K3 and K2, I have noticed the K3 hears dramatically
better.  This means I was able to hear transmissions on the K3 that I
could not hear with the K2.  

The TS-930s had a wonderful receiver and great analog sound.  It is an
old school transceiver with no DSP filtering.  The TS-930s hears better
than the K2.  I could find and tune in transmissions with the 930 that I
could not find with the K2.

I was able to put the TS-930s and K3 next to each other in the same
shack with top quality antennas.  The K3 could hear everything the
TS-930s could hear and a little more.  The difference was not dramatic
but it was there.  The K3 has features that allow digital filtering of
noise and adjacent signals so you could do a lot more with the K3 to
bring the signal up more cleanly.  At the same time, the TS-930's
natural sound is pleasant listening even if you can't completely
eliminate the static with DSP.  

With a K3 you are pretty much at the state of the art in amateur
receiver performance.  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Clay
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 9:18 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Need help to justify desired purchase :=)

Hi.

Been thinking about getting a K3.  Have been an extremely pleased
builder-ower of a K2-100 for several years now.  Listening to it now,
and it is a real pleasure!

To be honest, for HF hamming, the K2-100 (w/DSP module) is just fine for
me.  The K3's addition of 6 meters, and more importantly for me, and
ability to add 2 meters are a plus, but PROBABLY not enough alone to
justify the hefty price of ownership.  

What's going to justify the purchase for me, nor not, is the ability to
use the K3 as SWL tool. Knowing that a lots been written on the
Reflector in the past on this subject, I'd really like to have some
opinions from owners of the latest versions of the K3 on its performance
receiving broadcast stations.  Specifically, I'm interested in the
current state of the K3's receive audio bandwidth, distortion, and other
similar performance characteristics, and in the performance of its
Synchronous AM detection.

One way of getting at this would be for me to know how the K3 would
compare performance-wise (especially audio performance-wise) to some of
the more popular SW receivers, e.g. the Drake R8 series, the Icom R-75,
etc., or to other transceivers lauded for their receive audio
performance (e.g., the old Kenwood TS-870).

Thanks!
Paul
N6LQ
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[Elecraft] (phase signals RE: SDR IQ/IF Questions

2011-04-06 Thread George A. Thornton
IQ data is a method for describing the characteristics of a wave.  IQ
uses amplitude and phase angle to describe the wave, see for example 

 http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/tut/p/id/3013

The K3 takes an RF signal from an antenna, filters and modulates it.  At
some point the filtered, modulated signal is made available to an IF out
port where it can be used conveniently by various testing and measuring
devices.

A panadapter takes the IF signal and converts it into IQ signals.  These
IQ signals can then be used to visually represent characteristics of the
signal on a chart or screen.  The LP-pan converts the I and Q signals to
audio for input into a computer using a sound card.  The P3 panadapter
directly charts the IQ data onto the built in screen.

The SDR-IQ is a standalone software designed receiver.  It is designed
to hook directly into an antenna source and can be used with software to
directly display data about the signal.  I do not believe it is designed
to work with modulated IF output from a quality receiver, but I could be
wrong.

The SDR-IQ can be used as a standalone panadapter through a computer,
getting its signal direct from the antenna, completely bypassing the
transceiver altogether.  According to its own manual it does not have
much filtering and it can get overwhelmed by other RF sources.  

The price for the LP-Pan and sound card is less than the price for the
SDR-IQ.  The P3 costs only a small amount more than the SDR-IQ.

The P3 and LP-Pan were compared in a recent QST article.  According to
the testers, the two approaches are roughly equal in their ability to
decode and display weak signals.  

The LP-Pan has the advantage of allowing the use of a large computer
screen for a panadapter. The disadvantage is that it is complex to set
up, requires use of buggy computers and software with driver
compatibility issues and has a lot of loose wiring.  

The P3 is a plug and play solution that is reliable and easy to use. The
P3 is more closely integrated with the K3.  IN the future the P3 is
going to allow direct connection to a computer monitor and keyboard.

Given all the factors, I do not think the SDR-IQ solution is the best
choice here.



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Geoffrey Wolf
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 10:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] SDR IQ/IF Questions

Hello fellow SDR enthusiasts,

 

I have looked around a little bit and haven't found a very definitive
answer
for the questions that I'm having about the way the K3 and external SDR
equipment works. 

 

I've been looking into the LP-Pan which converts the IF output from the
K3
into (im guessing) audio signals which then are converted into digital
data
by a soundcard. The trouble I'm having is understanding what exactly I/Q
is.
>From what I understand, I/Q is digital data that software like CW
Skimmer
understands.

 

Now, I've also been looking at the SDR-IQ which does all of this
internally
by taking the IF output from the K3 and converts it directly into
digital
data which is then ferried to the computer over USB, forgoing the need
for
an extra soundcard. 

 

Now, I've seen two versions of PowerSDR. I've seen PowerSDR/IF (looks
more
developed/supported), and PowerSDR-IQ. What is the difference? 

 

I suppose the summary question of this email is. can you use PowerSDR/IF
with an SDR-IQ rather than an LP-Pan? I personally would rather buy an
SDR-IQ and take that extra hardware stage (possible audio loss) out of
the
picture.

 

Thanks!

 

Geoffrey Wolf

AB3LS - Amateur Radio Callsign

University of Pittsburgh '14

gr...@pitt.edu

liltechd...@me.com

(412) 450-1310

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector

2011-03-25 Thread George A. Thornton
I am not an electronics expert, but I work closely with someone who spent 40 
years installing custom electronic equipment in commercial and military 
aircraft.  

Approaching PowerPoles from the perspective of a novice, it has been my 
experience that PowerPoles take some learning to properly assemble.  There are 
times when I thought I had it but I actually did not.  However, once I finally 
learned how to do it, everything works just fine with no heating and no 
significant voltage drop.  The connector has to snap in place into the housing, 
if it does not something is wrong.  Usually either the contact is upside down 
or the crimp or soldered connector became deformed.

The main advantage of a PowerPole is that it can be reconnected for all 
practical purposes an unlimited number of times without degrading the contact. 
Further, the contacts are well protected greatly reducing the chance of an 
unintended short. These features plus the fact that PowerPole connections are 
standardized and modular make them popular in EmComm and other field work, 
where equipment must be frequently assembled and disassembled in the field.  
Life in the field is a great deal safer and simpler if everyone is using 
PowerPoles.  If you need to move your rig into someone else's vehicle, all you 
have to do is plug your equipment with PowerPole connectors into their 
PowerPole system.

I have been taught that properly applied crimp connections are better and more 
reliable than solder connections.  My electronics expert agrees with this 
position.

My expert friend objects to PowerPole connectors because they have no positive 
lock and could easily become disconnected.  That would certainly be a huge 
issue in aircraft electronics.

I don't have such critical uses so I don't worry about an inadvertent 
disconnect.  

For anything serious, the PowerPole connection can be secured either with zip 
ties or some plastic locking inserts they supply.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of george fritkin
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 9:39 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector

I solder crimp connections especially RF.  My only question is what harm can it 
do?  In production is saves lots of time, but how many crimp connections does a 
typical ham do in a year?  At 82 feet up on a tower I rather be safe than 
"climb"
George, W6GF



--- On Fri, 3/25/11, Jeff Herr  wrote:

From: Jeff Herr 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpole connector
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Friday, March 25, 2011, 8:10 AM

If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork
lift on the planet uses that connector design?

How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48
volts @ 200 amps?  Can you imagine the heat dissipation?

Crimp the connector as specified!

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan

2011-03-23 Thread George A. Thornton
I have owned both the K2 and K3. 

The K2 is a perfectly capable HF radio, near (but not at) the top in
receiver performance.  The most fun part of the K2 was assembling the
kit, and I learned a lot from the experience.

The K2 has advantages in price, small size and low power consumption.
For average radio use it is more than enough.  

That being said, the K3 is by far the better radio.  Significantly more
effective and sensitive receiver, many more features and options.

Development will continue with the K3 whereas the K2 is probably for the
most part going to stay as it is.  



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Byron Servies
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 8:59 PM
To: Shane
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan

Hi Shane,

I bought a K2 for myself this past Christmas and am building it now (I
just finished my session for the evening, in fact).  I have used K3's
at other stations and they are wonderful; I have no doubt that at some
point I will own one.  Like you, I had the concern about longevity of
the K2, but in the end my requirements were more fully met by the K2
than the K3.

In late 2009 I sold all of my appliances (except 2 HT's and a mobile
in my vehicle) and bought a K1. The build experience was fantastic, I
learned a lot about how the radio worked by looking at the schematics
as well as the parts, and it forced me to learn CW if I wanted to get
on the air!  This year, I'm building the K2 system to expand both my
understanding of more complex tranceivers and my stations
capabilities. SSB and more bands will be very welcome.

The traditional nature of the K2 kit appealed to me after my K1
experience.  My operating needs can be met by either the available
options or 3rd party modifications, and the size of the finished
product will fit my shack better than a K3 just now. Someone else will
have to comment on performance (mine is still mostly in parts bags,
after all), but the K2 has already provided me with hours of pleasure
and I haven't even powered it on yet!

Will it be replaced? Well, it has, by the K3.  I would not put it past
Elecraft to come out with another small kit radio, but probably not a
traditional full-feature radio kit like the K1 or K2.

A KX3 SDR-based trail radio that uses cell phone DSP chips?  That I
could see them doing.

My 2 cents,

73, Byron N6NUL

K1 #2799
K2 #7077 (in progress. Unboxing video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFiXSuTiCmU)
Most mini modules

- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] marine frequencies and k3

2011-03-23 Thread George A. Thornton
Thanks everyone for the excellent information.

-Original Message-
From: Eugene Balinski [mailto:euge...@nni.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 5:54 AM
To: George A. Thornton; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] marine frequencies and k3

George,

   The ** best ** solution would be for her to get her ham
license.  In that manner, she would be able to work the
14300 Maritime Mobile Service Net as well as a number of
other maritime nets throughout the world.  It will also
give her access to other hams throughout the world.   This
could save her life.   There are a number of weekend
license courses that could help her along the way.  

   I am sure that he HF radio and antenna coupler on her
boat will cover the complete 3 - 22 MHz band and may go to
30 MHz.  It may have to be keyboard/reset enabled.  That
would give her easy operation. 

  Also, please DO NOT suggest that she use a ham rig for
her primary marine HF radio.  Most ham rigs are not set up
for the rigors of marine operation and with the salt air
and moisture, corrode very easliy.  Marine HF radio have
the commericial frequencies with correct T/R split already
in NV memories.   This is especially important for distress
frequencies.  These are normally a 1 button push.

   No it is not legal for you to communicate with her via
HF on the marine band with out getting a commercial station
license for you, and having a commercially certified radio
at your station.   

73
K1NR





On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 22:07:39 -0700
 "George A. Thornton" 
wrote:
> I know someone who is about to embark on an around the
> world sailboat
> cruise.  She is not currently licensed on HAM frequencies
> but is going
> to have a marine operator license.  She is about to
> acquire a marine SSB
> radio.  Most of those radios are also capable of
> operation on HAM
> frequencies.  
> 
>  
> 
> I was trying to figure out if it was possible to legally
> communicate
> with her using my K3 from home.  
> 
>  
> 
> Can the K3 be modified to permit transmission on marine
> bands?
> 
>  
> 
> I want to emphasize that I am not looking for an
> opportunity to use the
> radio for any illegal purpose.  I am only interested in
> operating on
> marine frequencies for which I would have a valid
> license.  
> 
>  
> 
> Beyond this, it seems there is a potential marketing
> opportunity for
> Elecraft in the marine community.   Ocean sailors use SSB
> and many of
> them also end up getting a HAM license so they can also
> use HAM
> frequencies on voyages.  The Elecraft K2 and K3 are in
> some ways ideal
> for marine use because they are small and have relatively
> low power
> consumption.  
> 
>  
> 
> The stresses on a marine radio are huge and most of them
> have been made
> water  and shock resistant.  Also, marine radios require
> extreme
> simplicity of operation because they occasionally have to
> be used by an
> inexperienced operator during an emergency.  
> 
>  
> 
> Maybe none of this makes practical sense.  
> 
>  
> 
> Someone educate me, that is what this forum is about.
> 
>  
> 
> de George AE7G
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>
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[Elecraft] marine frequencies and k3

2011-03-22 Thread George A. Thornton
I know someone who is about to embark on an around the world sailboat
cruise.  She is not currently licensed on HAM frequencies but is going
to have a marine operator license.  She is about to acquire a marine SSB
radio.  Most of those radios are also capable of operation on HAM
frequencies.  

 

I was trying to figure out if it was possible to legally communicate
with her using my K3 from home.  

 

Can the K3 be modified to permit transmission on marine bands?

 

I want to emphasize that I am not looking for an opportunity to use the
radio for any illegal purpose.  I am only interested in operating on
marine frequencies for which I would have a valid license.  

 

Beyond this, it seems there is a potential marketing opportunity for
Elecraft in the marine community.   Ocean sailors use SSB and many of
them also end up getting a HAM license so they can also use HAM
frequencies on voyages.  The Elecraft K2 and K3 are in some ways ideal
for marine use because they are small and have relatively low power
consumption.  

 

The stresses on a marine radio are huge and most of them have been made
water  and shock resistant.  Also, marine radios require extreme
simplicity of operation because they occasionally have to be used by an
inexperienced operator during an emergency.  

 

Maybe none of this makes practical sense.  

 

Someone educate me, that is what this forum is about.

 

de George AE7G

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Why I won't purchase K3

2011-03-08 Thread George A. Thornton
I have a different opinion.

I like kits.   The stereo I used in college was a Heathkit I built
myself.  

I built the K2 and learned a great deal from the experience.  I had at
least as much fun building the radio as using it.

Building the K3 is indeed much less of a kit experience.  This is
inevitable because technology has moved forward.  High end equipment now
extensively uses surface mount parts.  It is impossible to practically
market a kit requiring extensive assembly of boards using surface mount
parts.  The equipment and skills needed for that type of work is beyond
the casual amateur.

That does not mean there is no advantage to having built the K3 as a
kit.

Recently I had a problem with the B VFO.  After a call to the factory I
was able to do a test and determine the B VFO encoder was going bad.
They sent out a replacement and I was able to swap the parts in about
fifteen minutes.  No charge and no radio down time.

If this had not been a kit I would have had to return the radio for
service.  That would have meant a multi week delay and considerable
expense and frustration.





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Alexey Kats
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 6:45 AM
To: VE3GAM Allen McRorie
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Why I won't purchase K3

Allen, you misunderstood me. I have no problem with using owning K3 - it
the
best radio I around, no matter which day you ask it.  My problem is with
K3
in its "kit" form. I don't have a problem buying it as an assembled
radio.
But I have a problem with buying it as a kit and then claiming that "I
built
it". All this "kit" form does is saving some money. It does not make me
proud of achieving anything - that's what I was griping about. I don't
mind
bying K3. I don't like "building" it, that's all

Actually, I think I should apologize to everybody - the subject of my
original post was probably misleading.  The better way to phrase it
would be
"why I won't purchase K3 KIT".

On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 6:29 AM, VE3GAM Allen McRorie
wrote:

> interesting comment!
>
> if you want to use one of the best radios around, I really don't get
why it
> is so
> important that you BUILD the rig. Hopefully the END product is more
> important
> than the process used to get there. if not, then I guess you will miss
out
> on using
> one of the best radios around.
>
> that is why I don't consider the BUILD question important at all .
>
> Al ve3gam
>
>

-- 
Alexey Kats (neko)
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic Experimentation with Kenwood MC-60

2011-03-05 Thread George A. Thornton
I have a Kenwood MC-60, I bought it new about a year ago for use with an
older Kenwood 930s.  It has been used lightly and is in good condition.

I just tried it on my K3, it works fine for me with the mic preamp off
and the K3 set for FP L.

I am driving it with mic gain set at about 23, compression high 20's.
Audio sounds fine when I test transmit and use the monitor feature to
hear myself.

During transmit, I am getting strong power out.

This mic has not been modified and the pinouts are as delivered from the
factory.

There is an on-off button on the mic, leave that off.  There seems to be
no difference whether setting the mic for 50 or 500 ohms.  

You do need to speak close to the mic when transmitting, it is designed
for that kind of use.

Maybe there is something wrong with the mic you are using.





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 8:02 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Mic Experimentation with Kenwood MC-60

So, I asked a question late last night but no responses.  So, either no
one cares or maybe I got lost in the noise.  But, that is OK -- I will
try again.

I am confused and mystified by a mic that I borrowed from a friend to
try out with the K3.  It is a Kenwood MC-60 and I think it is fairly new
and I only have a day or two to play with this so I want to make use of
that time.

I am discovering that I don't understand all there is about microphones
and the K3.  For example, when you use the MENU to set the Mic to
something like FP.L or FP.H, what is the true meaning of the L and H.  I
know that the document says Low gain and High gain but how am I to
interpret this.  Does H mean that the mic has high gain or does it mean
that it needs high gain.

This MC-60 mic has a preamplifier on it and when this amp is off, I have
trouble getting the ALC meter to measure anything.  I do the test of
speaking normally into the mic but with the mic gain set to 60 I have to
either shout or speak VERY CLOSELY to the mic to make the ALC meter move
at all.  This does not seem right.  I get the same behavior whether the
mic setting is FP.L or FP.H.  By the way, Bias is set off as I believe
it should be with a dynamic mic.

Now, I have done some tests on-air with a few friends and they say my
audio sounds OK.  Right now, I have the compression either zero or very
low and I am forgetting which audio report I got with which setting.
But, the compression setting didn't seem to make a whole lot of
difference.

Also, another question --- this mic has a preamp and I am wondering if
there is wisdom in using the preamp versus the mic gain set to a high
value on the K3.

And, lastly -- I checked the history of some discussion on Kenwood mics
and the K3 and I see there is some discussion about the pin wiring of
whether pin 5 is used or pin 6 for something or other.  I was under the
impression that the K3 was using the Kenwood mic wiring so what is this
question on pin 5 versus pin 6?

Yes, when it comes to microphones I do not know very much.  I am about
90 percent CW so I obviously do not care about audio too much but I do
want things to sound OK without over driving the K3.

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2010-12-21 Thread George A. Thornton
Amplified computer speakers have been a problem for me.  They are not
well screened for RF and on occasion I have had bad feedback problems.
Eliminating the amplified speakers solved the feedback problem.
Unamplified speakers work fine and audio is adequate without external
amp with smaller efficient speakers.  



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Rodgers
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 9:15 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

Ok, one more question. I run some external equipment in the external
speaker line with a mono plug and a mono speaker. I should be able to
use that from k3 external speaker set to 2 with a stereo to mono adapter
right?

I also have a set of computer speakers I can run on line out. I wonder
if setting 
Line out=phon allows volume adjustment thru regular volume control (af
gain)

Do you see anything wrong (danger/hazard) with this?

Thanks. 

I saw it on the radio!

Happy QSO'ing.  Mike R


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

2010-12-17 Thread George A. Thornton
I stand corrected, thanks.  I have been pretty busy and did not take the
time to read all the way back.

-Original Message-
From: David Pratt [mailto:da...@g4dmp.fsnet.co.uk] 
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 11:50 AM
To: George A. Thornton
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

Nobody disputes that OM, but read the original post.  He is wishing to
improvise until his ESD station arrives.

In a recent message, George A. Thornton
 writes
[snip]
>Why pay so much for a high quality radio and then scrimp on the anti
>static mat?
-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

2010-12-17 Thread George A. Thornton
Proper electrostatic mats are cheap and readily available.  A local
electronics shop in Seattle sells 3x4 foot sheets of the material for
about $30, and they tend to charge higher prices since they are the only
local source for electronic components.

Also, Radio Shack sells a folding plastic model complete with wrist
strap, resistor and clip.  Although some on the reflector question
whether the Radio Shack model is sufficiently competent for the task, I
have had mine for many years and built a K2 and K3 on it with no
problems, and for some of it I was working over carpet.  

Why pay so much for a high quality radio and then scrimp on the anti
static mat?  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic K2VCO
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 8:51 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD

I've mentioned this idea before but I like it so much I'll repeat it:

I attached a metal yardstick (meter stick) to the front of my workbench
and connected it 
to ground through a 1 meg resistor. My arms naturally fall on it, and it
is invaluable 
when building kits and cutting wire to length.

I have an aluminum muffin tin for holding parts which is also connected
to ground via a 
resistor.

I use a wrist strap and mat too, but I suspect the ruler would be enough
by itself.

On 12/17/2010 8:22 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> As the KRX3 manual says (pg 5), avoid voltage differences between
yourself
> and the components. If you don't have an anti-static mat or wrist
strap:
>
> DO NOT use carpet on your work bench (a common practice before solid
state).
> Wood, Formica, etc., is fine. Metal is also okay for this, but not a
good
> practice for any bench on which you'll power up a rig.
>
> DO NOT use Styrofoam or other plastics to hold parts other than the
pink
> bags some parts are shipped in.
>
> DO touch an unpainted metal ground often while working. (When without
a pad
> I touch a ground every time before picking up an electronic part or
pcb - it
> only takes a fraction of a second to do so.)
>
> DO touch an unpainted metal part of the K3 itself after picking up a
part
> and before touching the part to the K3. (That equalizes any possible
voltage
> difference between you - and the part you're holding - and the K3 so
the
> charge won't flow through the part.) If you ground the metal case of
the K3,
> you can touch it before picking up each part to accomplish both
objectives
> at the same time.
>
> The Mains supply safety ground is a perfectly good ground to use to
> discharge yourself.
>
> There's more background on page 5 of the KRX3 manual, but the above
steps
> will keep you and the parts safe without a dedicated ESD workstation.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> Dear all,
>
> I am about to install my subreceiver  and would like to finish before
the
> weekend but I have no ESD work place. How can I best protect the
parts? Or
> do I have to wait until I can get the needed ESD equipment?
>
> OZ1CCM, Kjeld
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: QST's review of the Yaesu FTDX5000MP

2010-11-15 Thread George A. Thornton
When I was in the market for my K3 someone told me that what is at the
top of the heap today may be surpassed by someone else tomorrow.
Supposedly the Yaesu has a better receiver, at least on CW.  

What would bother me about this kind of a rig is that after spending all
that money on it, I may find myself owning an outmoded rig in a couple
of years.  They only maintain the current state of the art up to a
point, then they want to sell a new model.  I would be extremely mad if
I had bought the FT-2000 and now find the FT-5000 offering significantly
enhanced performance.

The other thing that would bother me is having to deal with product
defects.  Judging from what I read in the report, this unit already has
a number of issues.  That is not surprising for new technology but the
question is what are they going to do about it.  Sure, they will fix
some things now but I am probably going to have to send it in to the
factory for a month or more.

The beauty of the K3 is the absolutely stellar service.  Plus the fact
that most issues can be fixed with a simple swap of a board or a part.
Instead of sending the unit in whenever something goes wrong, I can with
the help of the factory figure out what is probably wrong and fix it
myself.  I just did that with a defective B encoder.

Further, as long as they continue to make K3's I know I am going to be
able to benefit from all the improvements.  I may have to pay a little
for parts but I am not going to have to shell out $5000 for a new radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter Usage

2010-10-28 Thread George A. Thornton
Go back to filter settings and set the bandwidth of the 1.8 filter a bit
wider, say 2.1.  Then use the hi/lo adjustments during operation.
Typically I keep the low full and gradually lower the hi settings.  When
you get the filter narrow enough the K3 will automatically switch from
the 2.7 to the 1.8 filter.  Several experienced users recommended this
to me and it works well.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
pastor...@verizon.net
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 3:41 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Roofing Filter Usage


I purchased a K3 with the standard 2.7 Khz SSB filter plus the 1.8 Khz
SSB filter.  I did not purchase a cw filter because I operate very
little cw.  But that may change.  The 2.7 is in slot #1 and the 1.8 is
in slot #2.  I know that if I push the FILT button that I can switch
filters.  But I was experimenting around listening to a weak station
that was rather close to a real strong station and when I activated the
1.8 Khz filter I was still getting some carryover from the strong
station on the weak station. Are there other controls that I need to use
that would enable me to knock out the real strong station so that I
could clearly hear the weak station?  I'm sure there is help in the
manual but I certainly can't find it.  Any help would be much
appreciated. Oh and by the way, I love the radio.  It's like a breath of
fresh air compared to my Kenwood TS0480s.  Mark KB3Z
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[Elecraft] Seeking external speaker recommendations

2010-10-24 Thread George A. Thornton
I am looking for recommendations on external speakers for the K3.  I am
primarily interested in voice modes.

I would use these primarily in my shack.  My contesting has thus far
been limited to Field Day, but who knows where this might lead.
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Re: [Elecraft] Re? New Kenwood TS0-590

2010-10-18 Thread George A. Thornton
Someone told me, when I was looking to buy my K3, that while the K3 was
the top of the heap today, soon or later someone would come out with
something equal or better.  It's a competitive world.

I am pleased that Kenwood is finally doing something decent in HF.  I
love my old TS-930s, a simple rig with great ears and a really great
sound.  

My best guess is that new purchase decisions are going to be made
according to priorities.  The K3 will always be attractive because of
its kit orientation and a lot of options for modifying and self
servicing.  Plus the K3 is constantly being improved and improvements
are always passed on to the earlier models.  

The TS-930 will have some appeal because of price.  The FTdx5000 is
preferred by someone who wants a large box and lots of individual
buttons and knobs, and who is already familiar with the FT series
approach to controls.  

I still would like to see individual band and mode buttons.  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lu Romero
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 10:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re? New Kenwood TS0-590

That's kind of a compliment!  

But why all the silly receiver conversion gymnastics?  Or
will there be a TS590S(G) with dual receivers and 100%
double conversion in our future?   Another "forklift
upgrade" model enhancement path like the Alfred P. Sloan
school of Product Management road map adopted over at Icom? 
Great way to keep up-selling radios to the masses!

W4ZW, who now owns a K3, a TS590 and a FTdx5000 is holding
forth a "head to head" comparison thread of the three radios
on the Florida Contest Group reflector.

Interesting discussion.  Jon feels the K3 is a great SSB
contest radio (!!!) but prefers the FTdx5000 for most uses. 
He feels the K3 RX is "noisy".  He also feels the TS590 is a
great "bang for the buck" transceiver.  

I dont disagree.  It might be nice to have a TS590 to
replace my aging TS570 as a secondary radio.  I always loved
Kenwood ergonomics (except for the position of the dreaded
MULTI knob on the TS570 that Kenwood moved on the 590!) all
the way back to the TS820s.

To each their own.  

Im happy with my choice.  The fewer K3's in the hands of my
competitors, the better!  :)  

-lu-w4lt- 
K3 #3192 
>
>
> On 10/18/2010 10:11 AM, Johnny Siu wrote:
> Believe me or not.  The designer of TS590 also a K3 owner.
 I met him in Aug
> 2010 in Tokyo.
>
> cheers,
>
> Johnny VR2XMC
>
>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SUB AF - NOR or BALANCE?

2010-10-14 Thread George A. Thornton
I find these comments fascinating and highly appropriate for a K3 forum.
The K3 with its modularity and close communication between user and
manufacturer is the ideal place for adapting new technology to HAM
radio.

As a heavy user of technology outside of HAM radio, I think I have some
opinions on what would improve HAM radio.

The first would be a Bluetooth adapter for the K3 that would allow use
of BT stereo headphones.  These devices already exist, it remains merely
to figure out how to add a module to the K3.  At least one HAM radio
manufacturer offers this option, so this can't be that difficult.
There are many high quality stereo BT headphones on the market that cost
under $100.   I would pay up to $200 for a reliable and stable BT
adapter for the K3.  If this could be made to work with a BT stereo
headphone and mic with PTT that would be even better.

The next step is a reliable and stable remote control system that
connects through the internet and can be operated from an app on a cell
phone or Ipad. 

I have big hands.  I have worked with all kinds of cell phones and
laptops.  

Cell phones, I have learned to hate the little mechanical keyboards, too
small for me.  With touch screen the keyboard is actually larger.  The
problem is many of the earlier touch screens were terrible.  The new
Iphone touch pad works well and you don't need a separate keyboard.  The
screen is still a bit small for big fingers or large web pages but it
certainly is more convenient than the laptop.

The Ipad could be an interesting remote control device.  Small enough to
take on the road anywhere, large enough to have complex controls.

The final issue concerns antenna restrictions.  I live close in and I
struggle mightily with getting adequate antennas.  I would love to find
a way to bring my K3 to an ideal location where massive towers are
possible, and leave it there all the time.  Maybe I would visit it once
in a while, but certainly not daily or weekly, maybe once a month or so.

For that to work well I would need a really comprehensive remote control
program.  One that allows me to remote in over the internet and make all
sorts of changes, including updating firmware remotely.  I know that
sort of stuff exists because my office computer consultant has set up a
similar system for our office computer network.  

I would love to have an Ipad and be able to remotely operate my K3.
Whether in another room in the house or on a road trip the radio would
get a lot more use.

I do confess that I have not yet explored what is currently available
for remote control.  I bet some of this stuff is already out there and I
am about to get an education.

Anyway, more food for thought.
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Guy Olinger K2AV
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2010 8:11 AM
To: Brendan Minish
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 SUB AF - NOR or BALANCE?

What really is missing here is a wireless headphone/mic that does not
need cords and can be worked with line in/out.  The enemy is not the
smaller and smaller boxes.  One day I will have a K3 AND a TV AND a
browser that fits on my wrist.  The "K3" will be an app that can be
configured to talk to just about anything.  I will be able to be in CA
and run my K3 in NC.

We're close.

I'll have a keyboard that only talks to my master com unit on my
wrist.  A video expander that gets its stuff only from my master com
unit on my wrist.  Permanent storage that gets its stuff and sends its
stuff to/from my master com unit on my wrist.

Does anyone put up with phones with cords anymore?  Or remote controls
with cords.  Or car keys that you actually have to put in a lock?

Is there some way to move FORWARD in our love/hate relationship with
cords?  Talk about old and dust covered analog.  Listen to us, talking
about solving ergonometric problems with patch panels.  Quaint, and a
part of me thinks that's really neat.  Rest of me thinks that's really
retro.

Small is very useful.  Right now I have my K3, a Microham u2R, a K2/10
and an EC2 BOX KPA100/KAT100 box, some speakers in the 6 1/2 inch
space directly under my 32" 16x10 monitor, which is at the level
picked out by SAS' ergo people years ago to fix my head/neck/back
problem at work (worked brilliantly).  The entire space is taken up by
my MP as an alternate, and of course totally inadequate for my 75A3
and Ranger.

Big hands/thumbs/fingers are not under our control.  I have small
fingers and thereby do not have issues that others do.  But shouldn't
our solutions be how to make SMALL fit WELL with BIG fingers?

What will you big finger guys do when your master com unit is strapped
to your wrist.  How are you coping with Iphones, Ipads, and the like.
Ignoring all of that and only buying "big-button" cell phones?  And
complaining endlessly about the key pads on Blackberries?

What direction is the future from this discussion?  How do we ru

[Elecraft] Sub Rx freeze

2010-09-25 Thread George A. Thornton
This might be something obvious I am overlooking.

 

I have experienced a few instances of the sub RX tuning knob freezing.
I spin the knob but the frequency does not change.

 

Sometimes turning the unit off and then back on gets things moving
again.

 

I have tried linking and unlinking the sub Rx.  No change.

 

I suspect I have done something with a menu or control setting but I
don't know what I could have done.

 

The radio is equipped as follows:

 

K3/100

KAT3

KRX3

KXV3A

KDVR3

KBPF3 (in main Rx)

 

 

Main has 13, 6, 2.8, 1.7 and 250 filters

Sub has 6 and 2.8.

 

I am powering off of an Astron RS-35M with a battery backup monitored by
a West Mountain Powergate PG40s.  

Because I am using AGM backup batteries, per instructions the voltage
setting of the RS-35m was increased to 14.5 volts.

 

The radio had a full factory workover in June and should be in good
operating order.

 

I am using the latest beta firmware.

 

I DO NOT have the P3.

 

I am wondering if it is the firmware, I don't recall this happening
before.

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available

2010-09-19 Thread George A. Thornton
I loaded the beta updates with zero problems.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Buck
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 12:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available



Given a number of reports about trouble downloading the latest K3 and P3
firmware, I decided to report my success conditions.

K3#125, P3#159, P3 power switch setup to turn on automatically with the
K3 but can turn off P3 power after K3 power up.

P3 connected to computer running XP.  P3 connected to K3, also Steppir
SDA100 controller hanging on the K3 line as a read only device.

P3 utility 1.3.8.25,  K3 utility 1.3.9.3
P3 power is not supplied by the K3, but comes directly from a Rigrunner
power distribution box from the station 12 volt supply.

Turned off P3 power switch.  Ran K3 utility and downloaded the K3
update.
A snap after I found the ftp files.  Closed the utility file.

Then cycled power switch on the K3.

Then ran the P3 utility and downloaded the P3 update.

Cycled power after closing the utility.

All is well.

It is really worth it.

John KH7T



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[Elecraft] Odd audio feedback problem

2010-09-07 Thread George A. Thornton
I seem to have an elusive audio feedback problem.  It is not always
there but when it's there it's bad enough to render me unintelligible on
voice Tx.  I am posting this because maybe someone has seen this before
and can enlighten me.

 

I am operating with the LP-Pan and am using Power SDR for software.  I
am using the E-Mu (I think 0202) sound card.  My computer is an older
Lenovo T60P laptop loaded with Windows 7.  

 

For PSK I bought a second sound card, some kind of a hockey puck style
USB card that was recommended from this list.I got the second card
because I was not able to see how the LP-Pan allows for transmit of PSK
from the computer.  I use HRD and DM780 for PSK.

 

The feedback is intermittent.  Sometimes it is there, sometimes not.  I
have tried silencing the K3 speakers, reducing MON to 0 and using
headphones, still it happens.

 

Turning off the computer eliminates the feedback.  Sometimes unplugging
one of the sound cards eliminates the feedback.   I also tried silencing
the computer microphone, presuming that the microphone was picking up
audio from the spoken Tx and feeding it back somehow through one of the
sound cards.  

 

Anyone ever encounter something like this before?  I suspect it is
something obvious that needs to be set in the computer.  

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Some thoughts on the K3 as an emergencycommunications station

2010-08-29 Thread George A. Thornton
I see the k3's complexity as an issue with emergency communication.  In
emergencies the K3 could be called on to deliver service with multiple
operators.

The K3 has a rather complex menu and control system.  It takes some
understanding and tweaking to get it to maximum effective performance.
Further, if someone inexperienced tampers with settings the K3 can be
rendered ineffective.  You would not want that to happen in an
emergency.  

There could be a software solution. I imagine a multi operator lock
option.  If the lock is engaged, the guest operator could be limited to
a set of basic and easily understood controls. Like AF or RF gain, nb on
or off, nr on or off, notch on or off.  Maybe they would be allowed to
adjust filter width, perhaps not.

I am aware that mic settings and power can be locked but I don't think
that is enough to protect the K3's effectiveness in multi op emergency
settings.  




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Leigh L. Klotz Jr
WA5ZNU
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 4:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Some thoughts on the K3 as an
emergencycommunications station


I'd really like to see some LiFePO4 packs (or at least sheet-metal
support
for them) for the Elecraft rigs.  The K2 would be fairly easy, and the
KX1
as well and probably the K1. 

The K3 has room if there's no amplifier, but LiFePO4 shines in power
density, which is just want you need for the current peaks of a KPA3, so
some sort of rear bolt-on would be needed.

I use a 1200 mAH pack on my KX1, but that's too big to fit internally.

Leigh/WA5ZNU
-- 
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Some-thoughts-on-the-K3-as-an-emerg
ency-communications-station-tp5474047p5476131.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 option questions

2010-08-27 Thread George A. Thornton
Note responses:

1.  The TXCO-3 is not necessary.  The basic TXCO is quite stable enough.

2.  You will probably do fine with the 2.7 filter, but may have
complications matching filters if you decide in the future to get the
second Rx for diversity receive.  

3.  For other filters, you could get by in casual use with just the 2.7
or 2.8.  Filter narrowing can happen with roofing filters or with DSP.
The narrow roofing filters do a better job of filtering out noisy
neighbors than DSP filtering.  IF you are just casual and don't care
about digging out a weak station in a crowded band, then you can save
some money.  That being said, having one or two of the narrow filters
gives you the opportunity to test out this rig's true capability.  That
is worth the price of admission.

4.  The KUSB is just an adapter cable.  They are sold everywhere and you
do not have to buy one from Elecraft.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Linda and Bob
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2010 3:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 option questions

I am ordering my K3 sometime next week. I want to make certain that I
order the suitable options when placing my order. The K3 will be factory
assembled. I am not a contester. I enjoy RAG CHEWING on SSB and CW. I do
not currently do any digital modes; not active on HF FM; do not normally
listen to SWL; do not intend to work AM on the HF bands.

Currently own an ICOM IC-7800 and IC-756PROII. No need for a second RX
in the K3 with optional filters for it. The IC-7800 already has this
feature; the IC-756PROII has dual watch. I use two THP amps, HL-1.5KFX,
one for each ICOM. I may switch one amp out to use with the K3. I can
get the THP amp adapter cable from DX Engineering for $35. I also use a
Palstar AT-AUTO ant. tuner with the IC-7800.

(1) Do I need to order the TCXO-3? Is it necessary for greater
stability?

(2) Should I order the 2.8 8-pole SSB filter option instead of the
standard 2.7 5-pole in the first RX? Will I notice much of a difference?

I plan to order the KAT-3F, a 400 Hz CW filter KFL3A-400; KXV3A,
K3/100-F, KFL-3A-1.8K SSB filter (8-pole); KUSB adapter; I may order
KFL3A-2.8K 8-pole filter if recommended (order at the $109.95 swap out
price when placing my order). I don't believe that there are any other
filters that would help me operate based on my criteria above. Maybe the
250 Hz for CW, but with the great K3 PBT and high/lows cuts, it may only
be another expense not needed.

Since most new computers seem to have more USB ports than RS-232 ports,
the USB adapter may be useful. Does Elecraft actually switch out the
RS-232 jack for the USB or do they just send you an adapter cable?

Any help, comments and suggestions would be most appreciated. The
Elecraft Reflector seems to be a wealth of knowledge for the new or old
Elecraft owner. Thanks to everyone who answered my previous post about
the Heil HC-6 Pro Elite headset and the Yamaha CM-500 headset.

Bob Wilderman, K3SRO
dlrwi...@comcast.net
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[Elecraft] Power supply voltage

2010-08-23 Thread George A. Thornton
I am about to put together a backup power supply system.  I have AGM
cell batteries and will be using a West Mountain PowerGate P40s and an
Astron RM35 power supply.

 

The West Mountain literature recommends that I boost the power supply
voltage to 14.5 volts in order to assure proper battery charging for the
AGM batteries.  

 

What will 14.5 volts do to the K3?  Am I risking something here, or is
there no problem with this setup?

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Re: [Elecraft] Reward for P3 S/N 56

2010-08-02 Thread George A. Thornton
There could be a black market in fake Elecraft serial number stickers.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Prather
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 4:47 PM
To: Ken Kopp
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reward for P3 S/N 56

Since I have K3 # 3727 I think I'll pass on trying to get the matching
P3 SN!

BTW, Congrats Ken,

Rick
K6LE

On 8/2/2010, at 4:39 , Ken Kopp wrote:

> 
> I just got the call from Madelyn that my P3 (kit) will be shipped 
> tomorrow (Tuesday) and will have a S/N in the 60+ range.
> 
> If one of you gets # 56 (kit or built) that was shipped today (Monday)

> I'd -really- like to hear from you on the chance that we can make a
swap.
> 
> It would be to your advantage, of course.
> 
> Some of us are quirky, aren't we  (;-)
> 
> 73!  Ken Kopp - K0PP
>K2 #56 65
>K3 #56
>P3 #__
>elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] My question is, "Do you folks think it is really necessary to , detail-inventory the Elecraft K2 product??

2010-07-18 Thread George A. Thornton
I agree.  The biggest risk is misidentification.

I prefer to use sheets of paper and scotch tape.  I group similar
components together and tape them together lightly to sheets of 8x11
paper, writing the identification number on the paper next to the
component(s).  I try to keep the sheets flat to minimize the need for
tape, and I clean tape residue off the lead before installing.  This
makes organizing and sorting through components really easy and
reliable.  



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of eric manning
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 9:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] My question is, "Do you folks think it is really
necessary to , detail-inventory the Elecraft K2 product??

I think it's a good idea.

The serious screwup is not  being shorted by Elecraft for a 50 cent 
component, it is installing the wrong component somewhere.

Doing a careful identification of all the parts by inventory is a good 
way to avoid this.

You match up each component with its descriptions by doing the inventory

and filing the components
accordingly [I use muffin tins, with all of the diodes in the same dish,

etc. You are less likely to install a diode in a resistor's place
, or the wrong value resistor,  if you do that.

I find that modern, tiny components are harder to identify, and thus 
easier to confuse, than their huge 1960s ancestors were.

Doing the inventory also encourages patience, rather than the get 'er 
done fast approach which leads to sorrow.

eric
VA7DZ




-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

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Re: [Elecraft] rather provocative advert from Kenwood

2010-07-02 Thread George A. Thornton
It is inevitable that the competitors would notice the success of the K3
and respond competitively.   Kenwood used to make quality HF radios but
long ago lost their way.  I would be interested in seeing a review when
one comes out.

In my travels I think there are a number of people who object to the K3
because they like the larger face and more traditional controls such as
individual band and mode registers.  Most of these HAMS have not
actually operated much with a K3. In my limited experience the controls
you most want to use while operating are right there and ready for quick
use in the K3.  It may be slightly slower to change modes or bands, but
it is not that big a deal.

I think there may be a market for an add-on module that sits next to the
K3 and offers more button and knob options.  This may sway the more
traditional.  We might speculate as to what we want, but I would
certainly add individual mode and band pushbuttons.  

I envisage a box identical in size to the P3, so you would have your add
on module on one side, the K3 in the center and the P3 on the other.  

It won't work any better than the K3, but it will look impressive for
those looking for the biggest box with the largest number of controls
and buttons.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Rock
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 2:36 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] rather provocative advert from Kenwood

This is broken too.  After crashing my system twice I find it is not
worth my time to download the .pdf  
   Kevin.  KD5ONS



-Original Message-
>From: Lew Phelps K6LMP 
>Sent: Jul 2, 2010 2:19 PM
>To: Elecraft 
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] rather provocative advert from Kenwood
>
>I downloaded this PDF file and uploaded it to a site anyone can access:
>
>http://public.me.com/lewphelps
>
>Has anyone seen specs and price for the new Kenwood? 
>
>Lew Phelps K6LMP
>
>
>On Jul 2, 2010, at 2:11 PM, Grant Youngman wrote:
>
>> Any chance this exists somewhere where creating a Google account
isn't a prerequisite
>> 
>> 
>> On Jul 2, 2010, at 3:43 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
>> 
>>>
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0Bw6A6YLa6L3rZjhjNWRiMGUtODZiMi00OWM
3LTljYmItNWM3ODY2YWU0YjVi&hl=en&authkey=CLe25YAE
>>> __
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

2010-07-02 Thread George A. Thornton
I can only give my anecdotal response.  I have built both the K2 and K3
and have supplemented and upgraded both.  

For the most part the Elecraft equipment, particularly the K3, is well
designed and pretested before leaving the factory.  

If you are comfortable with kit building you are probably going to have
no problems, particularly with the K3.  

If a problem develops often the company can help you solve the problem
through over the phone advice.  If there is a defective module they will
send you a replacement so you can do it yourself.

I would suspect it is far more likely that equipment will be damaged by
mistakes made by the kit builder than defects in manufacture.

You can avoid all the risk by simply buying the prebuilt radio.  That
will be fully tested before leaving the factory.

My build of the K2 was complicated because that is a more difficult
process since you have to do extensive soldering and are building the
individual circuit boards.  I had a few minor errors that were corrected
without having to return the unit to the factory and I got it running
well.  

The K3 was a much easier project and it took me less than 11 hours to
build and I had only one obvious mistake (forgot to plug in the PA power
supply) that I quickly found and corrected.  However, it was also my
experience that the sub rx ( which I installed later) is the most
difficult part of the K3 build.  The Sub Rx board's tnc connectors are
very delicate.  The sub rx fit is also very tight and it is very hard to
see the connectors to make sure they are properly seated.  I did damage
the SubRx board during installation and I did send it back to the
factory to repair.

Also, while the radio has a lot more protective circuitry than most,
there are things that an operator can do to it that would result in
damage.

Elecraft is good at helping and the repair charges are very reasonable.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed Lambert
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 8:09 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Repair

As a prospective K3 customer, I have been following this link with very
great interest. I would be interested in knowing what percent of K3
deliveries require return to Elecraft for repair and of that cohort,
what is
the percentage of K3's that were fundamentally defective upon delivery
as
opposed to damaged by customer (mis)use.

For me the weakness of the K3 is the (probably necessary) departure from
the
"kit model" of the rest of the Elecraft line where self repair is the
order
of the day. The repair of a K3, it seems to me, almost certainly
requires a
factory return, which, from this thread, is somewhat unappealing. 

I am interested further discussion on this thread in order to help me
determine whether my very limited funds go toward a K3 purchase or the
purchase of a second, but "fully tricked out", K2/100.

Ed Lambert, KD3Y (K2 1999, KX1 1492)


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Re: [Elecraft] power pole pins

2010-06-29 Thread George A. Thornton
PowerPoles have huge advocates and huge objectors.

They are very convenient for setups that are frequently changed, since
connecting is simple, safe and easy and the metal contacts are shielded
making an accidental short less likely.

A HAM friend of mine with 40 years experience in high end aircraft
electronics does not like them because there is no positive locking
mechanism to keep the connectors together.

Many are concerned about the metal pins designed to hold two poles
together.  They can sometimes come loose from the connection.  IF this
happens you have a piece of metal floating around that could cause a
short circuit.  That is why many of us don't use the pins.  

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[Elecraft] Help with ideal SSB contest settings

2010-06-28 Thread George A. Thornton
I am relatively new to the K3 and completely green on contesting.

 

My K3 is new this year and recently returned from the factory to correct
some problems that occurred during installation of the SubRx.  

 

During Field Day we were operating voice on 20 meters using a 6 element
monoband Yagi on a 30 ft. tower over a bluff, located in Western
Washington.  

 

We had both my K3 and an Icom Pro 3 as choices for the operators.   We
heard fine on the K3 but the conclusion was reached early that the K3
was not effective at breaking the Field Day pileups.  They shifted to
the Pro3, which was equipped with a high end Heil dual element mic, I
think the HM-10.  They reported much better results.

 

I went back and checked the K3 and found the mic settings were out of
adjustment.  I corrected the mic gain according to the manual
instructions and set a small amount of compression, less than ten
percent.  I then locked the settings so no one could mess with them.
At that point the band was dead, and I don't have enough information to
tell if the problem was solved or not.I do intend to check this out
further with someone local who is familiar with the K3 on voice.  

 

What I am looking for is suggestions for configuring the Tx on SSB for
maximum effectiveness in crowded conditions.

 

I am currently using the Heil MD-2 desk mic that I got from Elecraft
some years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] Diversity receive and isolating antennas

2010-06-24 Thread George A. Thornton
I am planning to use my dual receive K3 for field day and we want to try
out diversity receive.  

 

This particular setup will be for 20 meters only.  The primary antenna
will be a 20 meter monoband Yagi mounted on a 40-60 ft. tower.  

 

We were considering using a Buddipole mounted in vertical position and
tuned for 20 meters voice to serve as a Rx only antenna for the sub.
All transmission will be from the Yagi.  I was planning to hook the
Buddipole into a Rx only connector.

 

We will do the best we can to isolate the two antennas but having not
been to the site before I am not sure what will be possible in the way
of geographic isolation.

 

I want to make sure I won't do any damage to the K3 in case the
isolation is not sufficient.

 

Anyone familiar with this situation able to give me some guidance?

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Built in USB interface for K3

2010-05-21 Thread George A. Thornton
This issue has been bounced around a lot and perhaps it is now overdone.

I do want to say that in my consumer experience the serial port has
always been a beast to work with.  You constantly have to watch port
settings and the OS seems to change things all the time, causing the
device to fail to work properly.  

By contrast, every USB device I have used has worked correctly right out
of the box, and the OS seems able to find the device and correctly
allocate it.  Plus the bandwidth on USB is considerably wider, allowing
for much faster data transfer as well as the opportunity to power the
device directly from the USB connection.  The only problem I have seen
is when a new OS comes out and updated drivers are not available.

The other problem with staying with serial ports is that most computers
sold today do not have them.  This has been a significant problem for me
in a number of practical field uses.  I have tried many USB to serial
adapters and have had wildly inconsistent results, and even where they
work they have been inconsistent and sometimes mess up the port
settings.

All that being said, I now have a USB-Serial adapter that appears to
work properly and I am prepared to move on.  

If HAM radio can find a way, as most other equipment manufacturers have
done, to use USB interfaces reliably, then I will be happy.  IF they
don't choose to go that way I can use the adapter.  This is after all
HAM radio and we are supposed to have to tinker with the equipment.







-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 9:01 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Built in USB interface for K3


> And, I know that I have lived in the Apple Mac world for a long time
> but I am finding it hard to understand why USB requires custom device
> drivers on Windows.  I know that I do not need that on my Mac
> computer.  The only time I have ever needed to install a custom
> driver for USB is because of the ham radio RS232 interface needs.

That is absolutely untrue as I have learned recently ...

Like Microsoft, although Apple will recognize a USB device in
System Profiler, it does not supply the drivers necessary for
the operating system to talk to those devices (e.g USBSerial).
It is the responsibility of the device manufacturer to supply
the appropriate operating system driver and install it (or
provide instructions for the user to install it manually).

In an overwhelming number of devices, USB is nothing other
than an alternative to the 8250 equivalent UART.  "USB"
simply embeds the UART in the accessory device and extends
the CPU peripheral bus to the device.  It is a way for the
computer manufacturer to move COSTS to the peripheral maker.

Except for very few devices, the communication between the
UART and device is a simple serial data stream - no different
than if the UART had remained in the computer and the data
transported as RS-232 signal levels.  The ONLY advantage to
USB is the ability to support higher data rates - up to 3
megabits per second - for mass storage and data intensive
devices like digital cameras and other A/V devices.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 5/21/2010 10:05 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
>> Industrial devices are still, and remain, invested in RS232.
>> Maybe there's a reason?
>
>
> This is a very surprising statement.  The only RS232 interfaces I
> see lingering around are from the ham radio community.  So, do you
> mean the ham radio "industry"?
>
> And, I know that I have lived in the Apple Mac world for a long time
> but I am finding it hard to understand why USB requires custom device
> drivers on Windows.  I know that I do not need that on my Mac
> computer.  The only time I have ever needed to install a custom
> driver for USB is because of the ham radio RS232 interface needs.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit

2010-05-18 Thread George A. Thornton
By crash, I assume the whole system crashes and you get the "blue screen
of death".

According to a software engineer friend of mine at Microsoft, this is
usually caused by a driver conflict with the OS.  Driver conflicts are
more common with the 64 bit OS.  Drivers are written by the device
manufacturers and there  is often a considerable lag between the release
of the new OS and the manufacturer's release of a new driver.  Many
manufacturers have not gotten around to writing 64 bit drivers.  That is
why I chose to stay with 32 bit Windows 7.  Less problems.

If you are using an external sound card, look for a driver update on the
manufacturer's web page, and see if there is any discussion about
Windows 7 64 bit issues.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Frank MacDonell
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 7:49 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit

I have loaded HRD on a new laptop and now getting crashes. The
software worked fine on Windows 2000. Has anyone heard of any similar
problem and potential fixes? Thanks.

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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Re: [Elecraft] Son of K3??

2010-05-15 Thread George A. Thornton
Kenwood once made great HF radios.  I have an old TS-930s that is quite
a performer for its age.  I found in side by side comparisons I was able
to copy more weak signals with the 930s than with my K2.  If I could
copy on both, I would prefer the K2 because with dsp I was able to
filter out all the noise.

My new K3 is clearly the superior radio in all respects.  

I have also used a TS-2000.  I thought it was a very poor quality radio
and I sold it shortly after I bought it.

I am very happy with the K3 and have zero desire for a change.

I like Kenwood radios for VHF/UHF repeater and mobile use.  They
understand and implement APRS better than others and they are my choice
for mobile public service work.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward Dickinson,
III
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2010 6:12 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: wm...@triad.rr.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Son of K3??

In a photo taken at Dayton and posted to Flickr (search "TS-590"), I
noticed
doubled-up power cords into the TS-590S.  Has anyone heard a mention of
200
watts?


73,
Dick - KA5KKT
-

I talked to a Kenwood rep at Dayton this morning 

Will, AI4VE


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Driving Data Modes Using Dell Dimension 8400

2010-04-27 Thread George A. Thornton
I recently went through all this.  

A Signalink is not  necessary since the K3 already does internally what the 
Singalink does other than the sound card.  They run about $100.

I was warned away from the cheapest USB sound card dongles and I ended up 
spending about $30 for something with a volume control.  It works fine.

Need to play with audio levels.  

I used Ham Radio Deluxe and DM780.  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of ALAN GARD
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 10:04 AM
To: Elecraft Mailman
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Driving Data Modes Using Dell Dimension 8400

Hi to the Group.
 
Sorry if this is a bit OT, but here goes.
 
I'm just getting back into data modes (first time on K3), particularly WSPR.  
It's great that the K3 provides Lines In & Out obviating the need for terminal 
units and such.
 
Snag is, the Dell's integral SoundMax, although it has Line In that receives 
well from the K3 Line Out, doesn't seem to have any provision of Line Out that 
I can see.  Just teeing off the line to the usual amplified speakers seems a 
bit crude and adding an outboard sound card is expensive and rather negates the 
K3's advantage.
 
I'd be interested if anyone has found a more elegant way of using this 
particular computer.
 
73 de Alan G4LWA
 
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Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

2010-04-15 Thread George A. Thornton
My understanding is that lower volt systems are preferred by electrical
safety codes because they pose less danger to human life. From what I
understand, the only way you could cause death from a 12 volt circuit is
if the short circuited path goes through the human heart.

That is why electrical safety codes demonstrate a preference for lower
volt systems in highly mobile uses such as motor vehicles.  
 
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt PA

On 4/15/2010 11:51 AM, David Gilbert wrote:

> My guess is that the only reason we still see 12 volt rigs is because
> they make mobile and portable use more convenient, which of course was
> Elecraft's roots anyway.  Possibly even that will go away eventually
...
> the automotive manufactures have for some time been exploring higher
> voltage (42 volts or something like that if I remember correctly)
> systems because of the increasing current requirements (requiring
> heavier wiring) of today's expanding vehicle electronics.  That was
> actively being discussed a dozen years ago, though, so most likely the
> voltage overshoot issues (relays and motors have a lot of inductance)
> have proven difficult to overcome.

  Memories of my conversion of a 6V Volkswagen "Beetle" to 12V
  many years ago, so I could finally get rid of the 6V-to-12V
  booster that was being overloaded as I added stuff in the
  vehicle that required 12V.  That was an interesting project.

  In the last several years, commercial comm sites have gone to
  the telephone industry's 48 volt standard, with the major comm
  equipment manufacturers putting the 48V-to-12V down-converter
  as an integral part of their equipment or a needed accessory.
  The railroad industry has been at 72 volts down-converted to
  12V for ages.

  I for one am happy to stay with 12V on my K2 which usually runs
  at about 40 watts for data modes.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 setup

2010-04-09 Thread George A. Thornton
Thanks for the info.  That is exactly what I was looking for.  I will go
through this tonight, I am sure that is the answer.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:26 PM
To: George A. Thornton
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK31 setup

George,

I trust you meant QSO instead of QSL - the cards come after the contact.

:-)

Check the menu for MIC SEL when the K3 is in DATA A mode.  If it is set 
to anything other than LINE IN, it will not work from the Line In input.

Once you have set the microphone select menu correctly, go into TX TEST 
(so not RF is generated) and set the controls - either the K3 "MIC" knob

and/or the computer soundcard output to indicate between 4 and 5 bars on

the K3 ALC display.

Once you have that level setup correctly, go ahead and transmit (not in 
TX TEST) - you should have RF output.  Listen on another receiver if you

have any doubts.

73,
Don W3FPR

George A. Thornton wrote:
> Last night I started setting up PSK31 using HRD and DM780.
>
>  
>
> I am using an older Lenovo T60p computer in a port replicator, running
> Windows 7.  I made direct connections using 1/8 stereo audio plugs
> between the line in-out connectors on the K3.  The line out goes to
the
> microphone input in the laptop, and the headphones output on the
laptop
> goes to the line in on the K3.
>
>  
>
> I have things running apparently properly on receive.  I have had no
> problems working the waterfall to find and decode signals.  
>
>  
>
> I have also verified that on transmit the program does go through all
> the motions and does put the K3 into transmit mode.
>
>  
>
> I have not however been able to get a QSL from anyone yet.  I suspect
> there is something obvious that I have forgotten that needs to be done
> in order for the transmit to work properly.
>
>  
>
> I do have the radio in Data and set to Data A.  
>
>  
>
> I am sure I will feel stupid when someone tells me what I am doing
> wrong.  But, since none of you know me personally I am brave enough to
> take the risk.
>
>
>   
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[Elecraft] PSK31 setup

2010-04-09 Thread George A. Thornton
Last night I started setting up PSK31 using HRD and DM780.

 

I am using an older Lenovo T60p computer in a port replicator, running
Windows 7.  I made direct connections using 1/8 stereo audio plugs
between the line in-out connectors on the K3.  The line out goes to the
microphone input in the laptop, and the headphones output on the laptop
goes to the line in on the K3.

 

I have things running apparently properly on receive.  I have had no
problems working the waterfall to find and decode signals.  

 

I have also verified that on transmit the program does go through all
the motions and does put the K3 into transmit mode.

 

I have not however been able to get a QSL from anyone yet.  I suspect
there is something obvious that I have forgotten that needs to be done
in order for the transmit to work properly.

 

I do have the radio in Data and set to Data A.  

 

I am sure I will feel stupid when someone tells me what I am doing
wrong.  But, since none of you know me personally I am brave enough to
take the risk.

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Using "Buddi Pole" Deluxe Antenna with K3

2010-04-07 Thread George A. Thornton
I assume you have properly installed and activated the ATU.  

To operate the ATU you tune the radio to the band and frequency you
intend to use and then press ATU tune to operate the tuner.  Make sure
you have the antenna attached and selected first.  The ATU must also be
turned on.

The ATU is pretty robust and will handle an antenna with a 10:1 SWR
mismatch.  In addition, the radio has a lot of protective circuitry.

I have never actually used the buddipole but I have reviewed the manual.
There is extensive advice on setting up and configuring the antenna.

The easiest and safest way to handle this situation is to buy or borrow
an antenna analyzer.  I have the MFJ version and it works fine.  The
analyzer will allow you to make modifications and tune the antenna
precisely without risk to your expensive transceiver.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KC2VNI
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 2:26 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Using "Buddi Pole" Deluxe Antenna with K3


I have just gotten my radio set up thanks to W3DVX. It has both the
internal
ATU and 100W power amp options in it. I was wondering if any of you have
some tips on how to operate a Buddi Pole Deluxe antenna system? If you
have
any suggestions or some past experience, please advise.

Here are some of my questions:

1) Do you set the frequency 1st on the front of the radio AND then
activate
the tuner?

2) The antenna is rated for 250W. I would assume that this means it's
okay
to use the full 100W from the amp but I am concerned about the effects
of
SWR.

3) I was wondering if I'll get better results using the antenna as a
vertical or do I want to try it on horizontal dipole (I believe you get
about 16 feet of height above grade).

4) I was wondering if any one has had experience with the Buddipole on
SSB?

Please advise with whatever opinions you may have. Please know that I
recognize I'm probably not going to get more than say NVIS type of
propagation with this type of set-up (since I'm in a relatively flat
area
with no hills or the like).

73

KC2VNI-Steve

-- 
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/Using-Buddi-Pole-Deluxe-Antenna-with-K3-tp4867678p4
867678.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, sound cards and PSK31

2010-04-05 Thread George A. Thornton
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I have decided to purchase a less expensive sound card for dedicated use
with PSK31.  While I could do this through the other sound card  or the
computer, it is easier to set things up this way.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 1:08 PM
To: wb6r...@mac.com; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3, sound cards and PSK31



> The SignaLink schematic shows the same type of isolation 
> transformers already standard in the KIO3.

Which are redundant when used with the K3/KIO3.  Again, 
no value over the inexpensive USB "soundcard." 

73, 

   ... Joe Subich, W4TV 
   microHAM America 
   http://www.microHAM-USA.com 
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microHAM 
   supp...@microham.com 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: wb6r...@mac.com [mailto:wb6r...@mac.com] 
> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 1:11 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Cc: Joe Subich, W4TV
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3, sound cards and PSK31
> 
> 
> 
> On Apr 5, 2010, at 9:48 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> 
> There is no value to the Signalink that can't be provided 
> by much less expensive USB based soundcards
> ___
> 
> The SignaLink schematic shows the same type of isolation 
> transformers already standard in the KIO3.
> 
> http://www.tigertronics.com/sl_mods.htm
> 
> 73 - Steve WB6RSE
> 

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[Elecraft] K3, sound cards and PSK31

2010-04-04 Thread George A. Thornton
I have a question about PSK31, sound cards and the K3.

 

I am currently set up to use my K3 with the LP-Pan for a pandapter
spectrum display on computer.  I am currently using a separate USB sound
card (E-Mu 0202) as the sound card for this interface.

 

Someone told me that using the same sound card for Panadapter and PSK31
would create problems.

 

While I know I could run the K3 directly to the computer using audio
in/out connections, using my computer's internal sound card also has
problems, from what I was told.  

 

I am planning to use the K3 for some public service events and I was
hoping to include PSK31 as part of the process.  To do this everything
needs to be simple and reliable, we don't want to have to do a lot of
fiddling with equipment during the events.  

 

It has been recommended to me that I get the SignaLink USB interface
because it is easy to work with and reliable. 

 

Am I making this too complicated?  Or is it better to have two separate
independent USB sound cards to work things simultaneously?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 dumb Q about PPM, less dumb one about NB

2010-04-01 Thread George A. Thornton
I too want to express my strong irritation with Elecraft that I am not
able to create problems with my K3.  

I really want to blame them.  But every time I think I have something on
them it turns out I did not follow directions properly or I have
something installed wrong.

And they are so gracious about it all.  Makes me mad. 

I need to go to Radio Shack or Fry's and seek advice from the wonderful
help staff.  

George AE7G

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of lstavenhagen
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 1:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 dumb Q about PPM, less dumb one about NB


Ok thanks Don. As usual, you're right - the NB SAVE option does just
what I
was wondering about with the NB.

I also had the no-audio thing yesterday when I first plugged in my hand
mic
from Elecraft. Until I read the instructions that came with the mic to
enable the bias for it, I'd thought I'd finally found something wrong
with
my K3. But no dice, everything is still working the way it should.

I just can't seem to create problems with my elecraft rigs, I don't
understand it even with two left thumbs and a 6th grade education. Well
that's not true, I can, but.

And like I said, I thought my K2 had great selectivity and dynamic
range.
The K3's filters are just like brick wall for signals outside the
passband

73,
LS
W5QD
-- 
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-dumb-Q-about-PPM-less-dumb-one-about-NB-tp483730
1p4839606.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Firmware Update via K3 USB Utility

2010-04-01 Thread George A. Thornton
It is a trivially simple and painless process as long as the connection
between the K3 and your computer is working fine.  Just leave things
alone during the upgrade and don't disconnect or power anything down.  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 11:34 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Firmware Update via K3 USB Utility

Gang,

I will be doing my very first K3 firmware update via the K3 USB Utility.
(I still need to download the latest version of the utility).

Is there anything I need to watch for or any stumbling blocks that are
not obvious?  Any pointers or guidance is appreciated.  If it is so
trivially simple that I should not even be asking this question then
kindness, some grace, and mercy is requested.

Thanks.

73, phil, K7PEH
K3 Serial #3799
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Mike input no longer works.

2010-03-31 Thread George A. Thornton
If I recall correctly that microphone is an electret.  You have to set
the bias on the mic setting for it to work.  

Go to Main:Mic Sel setting.  While in that setting hit 2 to turn bias on
or off.  You may also want to play with sensitivity setting  (hi or lo)
by hitting 1.  See manual p.20.  These settings are available for front
and rear mikes.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lew Phelps K6LMP
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 4:37 PM
To: Donald Wines
Cc: 'Elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Mike input no longer works.

What filter is set? If you have a narrowband filter installed in
addition to the stock 2.7K filter, and if you have been working
CW/digital modes with a narrowband filter, and if the settings somehow
got messed up on the mode-by-mode filter selection, you might be trying
to transmit SSB through a narrowband filter.  the K3 doesn't like that.

lew K6LMP  

On Mar 31, 2010, at 3:49 PM, Donald Wines wrote:

> I haven't been on sideband for several months and this past weekend I
> decided to try to pick up a country or three during the contest. 
> 
> I switched the K3 over to USB on 15M, put the Heil Proset on, turned
on VOX
> and gave a little whistle and nothing happened. Tried PTT with no luck
there
> either. I didn't have the time to get into the problem too deep at the
time
> but now I have a little time to devote. I can't really remember the
last
> time I used SSB but it used to work.
> 
> I have tried looking at all the appropriate menu settings and can't
find
> where I have set something weird. The mike won't work on either the
front or
> rear panel. The Proset mike works on other equipment. 
> 
> Here's what I have:
>  K3 #123 FW: 3.79 D1: 2.54 D2: 0.00 FL: 1.08
>  NO SUB RCVR, NO DVR 
>  All current mods done by Aptos as of 8 or 9 months ago.
>  (don't remember exact date and haven't dug out the paper work)
>  Heil Proset Headphones/mike purchased from Elecraft
>  VOX Delay: Doesn't matter where it's set
> 
> Config settings:
>  MIC BTN: OFF
>  TX INH: OFF
>  PTT KEY: OFF-OFF
>  TX ALC: ON
> 
> Main Menu settings:
>   TX EQ: ALL BASE BAND (BUT OTHER SETTING DON'T SEEM TO MATTER)
>  VOX GN: TRIED EVERYTHING - NO MATTER
>  ANTIVOX:  "  "  "   "
>  MIC SEL: RPL (FRONT PANEL DOESN'T WORK EITHER)
>  MIC+LIN: OFF
> 
> I do have a US Interface Navigator sound card interface connected and
PSK D
> works ok. I haven't tried all the other digimodes yet. I totally
> disconnected the Navigator but it made no difference.
> 
> Have looked at all the obvious things, all plugs in the right holes,
etc.
> Rig works great otherwise!
> 
> It's probably something stupid that I did but does anybody have any
ideas
> where else to look before I go to the guys and gals in Aptos?
> 
> Don
> K5DW
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 for sale

2010-03-08 Thread George A. Thornton
Now that I have the K3 I am putting my K2 s/n 4554 for sale.

 

This is a fully equipped QRP model and includes SSB, 160 meter,
60M/Xvtr, noise blanker and DSP modules.  Total cost today for these
would be around $1200 in kit form.

 

I built the unit myself under the supervision of a 40 year veteran
aircraft electronics technician (Gene, W7AKA).   He proofed everything I
did.

 

At the time I bought it I was still a tech, so I used it only in receive
mode.  By the time I upgraded, I had access to another 100 watt rig and
I decided to go with the K3.  This unit has rarely been used to
transmit.

 

Everything works and meets factory specs.  There are a couple minor
paint scratches on the top cover.  

 

I will allow a three day right of return if not satisfied.  I only ask
that you pay for shipping both ways.  The unit is available for
inspection in Seattle, Washington.

 

I am looking to add the second receiver and a couple filters to my K3.

 

Price is negotiable.

 

Respond direct to my address and I will provide you with further contact
information.

 

George Thornton 

 

AE7G

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Purchase Recommendations??

2010-03-05 Thread George A. Thornton
I am relatively new to the K3 and I am not a contester.  I did want to
give my reactions to the 1.8 filter as a second SSB filter.  I have one
and I have been listening through it.

 

The way the filters work, the K3 does not kick in the filter until you
narrow the bandwidth to that filter's size.  So, if you get the 1.8 all
bandwidths between 1.9 and 2.7 or 8 will run off of the standard 2.7 or
2.8 filter, and the 1.8 sits idle.

 

What I have observed is the narrower the filter the weirder and more
unnatural it sounds in SSB.  At 1.8 you have filtered out a substantial
part of the normal SSB signal.  What left can be understood but it is
not pleasant or comfortable to the ear.  You may find the filter very
helpful for picking out a weak signal under difficult conditions, but
you would not want to use that for very long, and not for casual talk.

 

I would suspect the 2.1 filter would be more natural sounding and you
might find that more pleasant to use.  

 

There has been some talk  of a variable frequency SSB filter.  It might
make sense to wait for that to come out and see what people think of it.

 

Keep in mind that you can't transmit on AM , FM or ESSB unless you have
one or both of the wider filters.

 

Finally, I think the Xverter/IO  module is really worth getting.  One of
the fun things to do is to use a computer (or the upcoming P3) for a
spectrum scope.  There are a lot of neat things you can do with that,
and you absolutely need the IF out for that to work.

 

I will finally offer my observation that the K3 is one fine radio and
you will not regret the decision to get one.

 

 

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[Elecraft] K3 #3934 live and running

2010-03-03 Thread George A. Thornton
Proud to say that K3 # 3934 is up and running.

 

I do have a question. I unfortunately live in an urban environment with
lots of QRM.   I have room to put a Mosley TA-33m on the roof of my
house, and I have barely enough room to string a 110 ft. inverted V for
40/80 meters.  Despite these limitations the K3 hears quite well and I
seem to have no trouble getting others to hear me on 100 watts.  The K3
can eliminate a lot but not all the noise.

 

Someone gave me a Timewave DSP-599zx.  It is a DSP noise control device.
Is this going to be helpful or is it simply the same or similar to what
the K3 already provides?

 

George Thornton

AE7G

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[Elecraft] Rig recption comparison

2005-01-06 Thread George A. Thornton
I have begun running my personal comparison test between three
receivers.  The tests have been on SSB reception.

 

My newly constructed K-2 (with DSP)

 

Kenwood TS 2000

 

Older TS930s that I recently had professionally tuned up.

 

The bottom line is that there is no comparison.

 

I live in a fairly urban, high noise location.  The noise floor on the
TS 2000 makes it almost unusable on HF.  Using the same antenna, I often
can't even tune in stations that are clear as a bell on the 930 and K2.

 

I am also finding that the K2 is outshining the much venerated 930s.  

 

With filters properly set on the K-2 I find that if I get any reception
at all, the stations coming in on the K2 are clear with inconsequential
background noise.

 

>From early tests, the 930s is usually able to hear the same stations.
However, I need to fiddle with controls a lot and there is a big noise
floor.  I think the DSP in the K2 has contributed substantially to the
K2's superior performance.

 

The 930s probably has a superior AF amplifier and sound volume.  When
the unit is properly set up the sound can really boom out (my wife
complains a lot) and the tone is rich with good tone balance.  However,
ONCE THE FILTERS ARE PROPERLY TUNED, the K2 has more than adequate
volume and tone.  Again, the DSP, which does a superior job of noise
control, comes through for the K2, making reception a much easier,
clearer and more pleasant experience.

 

All in all I am very satisfied with the performance of this little box.
As I sit here in Seatte I am listening to a SSB station from Los Angeles
that is coming in as clear as if it was broadcasting next door.  

 

I am going to make a more close comparison between the K2 and the 930s
in the next couple of weeks.  I will limit my use of the 2000 to the VHF
and UHF frequencies, where it does an excellent job.

 

 

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[Elecraft] Question about SB transmission issues

2004-12-29 Thread George A. Thornton
I have completed #4554, which consists of the K-2, noise blanker, DSP2
unit, 160 meter, 60 meter and SSB modules.

 

I bought a used Bird wattmeter through Ebay, which was finally delivered
yesterday.  Last night I went thoroughly through all of the alignment
and test procedures.  I did not have a signal generator, so I used
on-air signals from the antenna, which is an acceptable multiband dipole
mounted ten feet above the roof of my home, fed by coax.  I then peaked
all bands properly using the Bird and a dummy load.  Everything tested
out well and all of the transmit power tests worked fine on all bands
using CW.  I have been able to generate power at or above 10 watts on
all bands.

 

All other modules have also checked out fine.  The DSP unit works
exactly as specified, and I have set all of the filter settings
according to the recommendation in the SSB manual.

 

The last tests I sought to run involved SSB transmission.  I have not
completed those tests as I did not yet have a separate receiver set up
to check on the quality of broadcast.  I plan to tackle that tonight.  

 

By the way, I bought a new Heil MD 2 configured to Elecraft standards,
and I installed all eight pins and the resistor.

 

I did check the transmit function at 5 watts into the Bird and a dummy
load.  I checked it on all bands.  

 

I found that on some bands the meter would peak right at 5 watts when
the PTT switch was pushed on the mike.  However, on some of the bands
the watt meter would barely register, or else it would register at a
reading below 2 watts.

 

Is there a problem here, or is this normal?  

 

If it is not normal, what circuits are likely to be suspect?  

 

I am not an electronics expert.   At what point in the circuit flow does
the SSB transmit signal become frequency band-dependent.

 

Thanks for your feedback.

 

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] Status report

2004-12-22 Thread George A. Thornton
Pleased to report that #04554 is going well.

 

I now have installed four options: KNB2, KDSP2, K160RX  AND KSB2.  

 

Everything went pretty smoothly.  With the exception of the KSB2,
everything worked according to hoyle right off the bat.  The KSB2 unit
would not communicate with the main processor.  I went back and checked
and found I had forgotten to finish soldering in the P1 connector.  I
had carefully rechecked the bottom of the board but forgot to go back
through the top.

 

A few dabs of solder on the remaining pins and # 04554 was off to the
races.

 

Next option to install is the 60 meter module.  That does not look too
complicated.

 

I now have a question:

 

I plan to eventually go for the 100 watt option, but not right away.
Can you use the 100 watt antenna tuner in the QRP version or do you have
to have the 100 watt unit installed first?  

 

.  

 

 

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[Elecraft] Lessons I have learned from my first K-2

2004-12-20 Thread George A. Thornton
I thought I would share some comments concerning my personal experiences
in building my first K-2.  Perhaps this will help someone starting out.

 

I am not a skilled electronics technician, and I am a bit of a klutz
with mechanical stuff.   Many years ago I built a Heathkit hi-fi stereo
amp.  I remember that I learned nothing about testing or troubleshooting
from that experience.

 

In general I really enjoyed putting the K-2 together.  I learned a lot.
I now feel I know this radio and can solve problems on my own.

 

I made a few mistakes during construction.  

 

First, I did not really understand capacitor identification codes when I
started.  As a result, I misidentified a couple capacitors and installed
them in the wrong locations.  I recommend that anyone new to this stuff
take the time to read carefully page 9 of the manual, as well as
material from the ARRL handbook on component identification.  When in
doubt, ask.

 

Second, I was a bit timid in my soldering technique.  I was afraid of
burning something, so I was gentler than I needed to be.  Fortunately, I
was able to have a friend with 40 years experience in aircraft
electronics look over my work.  I have followed his suggestions and
things have gone better.  If you, like me, are new to soldering, get
some advice from an elmer; it can save you considerable turmoil later.

 

Third, I wound my own toroids.  I generally did not find that hard to
do.  Kind of like sewing a button; it was relaxing.  I did however have
problems with preparation of toroid leads.  I did not realize the
toroids were nonconducting, so I was afraid of bare wires near the
toroid surface.  Some of my first leads were not stripped close enough
to the toroid body.  

 

I also tried different techniques to strip the leads.  I eventually
reached the conclusion that the approach recommended by the manual is
the best.  I used a heavier soldering iron, got a bulb of solder going
on it, and ran the toroid wire through the ball.  This worked the best
and left a good, tinned surface.

 

Finally, I made a couple of mistakes due to fatigue.  This is really a
nit-picky process, and it is really easy to space things out when you
are tired.  

 

IN solving problems, I found it good to proofread parts placement,
especially after building the RF board.  I went through the manual and
checked off every component for the proper number and orientation.
That gave me confidence that I had done it right.

 

Anyway, I hope these comments help someone.

 

IF I CAN DO THIS YOU CAN DO THIS.

 

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] "new" subcription

2004-12-20 Thread George A. Thornton
This is a test to see if I am correctly connected.

 

I have been receiving posts to this reflector but my messages in have
been rejected.

 

I have multiple email accounts and I suspect that is the reason.

 

I changed things and hopefully this works.  

 

Anyway, I have just completed the K-2 construction and all seems to be
working.  Had a few problems but got them solved.

 

Just installed the KNB2 and KDSP2 modules.  The DSP is working fine and
the KNB2 passes all of the tests.  I think there is something wrong in
the KNB2; I can hear nothing different when it is turned on.

 

 

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