Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Features and Pricing

2010-09-09 Thread Matt Palmer
I may be further taking us off topic here but yuppie stands for something =
young urban professional... Most hams aren't young, you cant have antennas
in an urban environment, and when's the last time you say someone wear a
suit to a hamfest? I feel like I am channeling Indigo Montoya here :-P. The
word you are probably looking for is closer to hipster, though most hams
dont qualify for that either, perhaps fanboi is a better choice.

/snark off


Matt
W8ESE




On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 1:44 PM, Jack Brabham k...@att.net wrote:

  Phil,

 No anger with Elecraft, they are my favorite ham company, and I'm quite
 proud of my K3 even if it did take months of research and hair pulling
 to figure out how to get a decent output from it on SSB.

 I am concerned, based on the KPA500 rumors, that Elecraft may be
 deliberately pricing themselves out of the average ham's range.  The
 Oh, it cost so much to produce a product in the USA! argument doesn't
 hold water either.   Where do you suppose MFJ's are made?  Or for that
 matter the K3?

 I'm thinking that if them old southern boys at MFJ can make a /decent
 /amp for around $2/watt, the folks at Elecraft ought to be able to
 make a /great /amp for about the same money.  They definitely smoked
 Yaesu and Icom on value postion with the K3.

 FWIW Stupid Yuppies, in my book,  would be those folks who are willing
 to pay twice what something is actually worth just for a label, or for
 the joy of owning the most expensive.

 73 Jack KZ5A

 K3 #4165





 On 9/9/2010 9:46 AM, Phil Townsend wrote:
  Ewww, Jack You are soo mean... Stupid Yuppies... Come on Jack, why so
 angry at a great USA company that ACTUALLY builds some great products?
 
  Phil
  Santa Fe
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: ROCKWELL automation at Dayton

2010-05-18 Thread Matt Palmer
turbo encabulator was better.


Matt
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Re: [Elecraft] K2AT to QRP Cover!

2010-05-18 Thread Matt Palmer
If you can melt solder you can build an elecraft kit, even 'roids are
easier than everyone makes them out to be (though they can be the most
time consuming part of the kitbuilding.)

Matt
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Re: [Elecraft] Slightly OT: K2 Sales Targeted

2010-05-11 Thread Matt Palmer
K2 is actually derived from plant fertilizer... the more you know.

(kids are dumb)

Matt
W8ESE




On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 10:08 AM, Al Gulseth wb5...@centurytel.net wrote:
 (I thought the readers of this reflector might get a chuckle out of the title
 of this article in the local newspaper yesterday. No, it's not about the
 draconian Radio Police: seems as how the K2 in this instance is a
 substance that (shall we say) is apparently being used as a mood enhancer.
 However, as I consider things carefully, what we associate with the term K2
 could also be said to serve as a mood enhancer during construction and
 operation. Uh-oh)

 Times Record: K2 Sales Targeted

 http://www.swtimes.com/news/article_da8235c0-5c42-11df-88b6-001cc4c002e0.html

 73, Al
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference iPhone App Available

2010-04-29 Thread Matt Palmer
Think your better off with a netbook for that kind of stuff, ipad
doesn't have i/o at all, no audio input and a fairly limited
processor, its more of a dumb tablet for web browsing and running
little apps. And for the price, you could pick up 3 netbooks and put
whatever flavor of *nix or windows on it that you like (even os x).
Not to say tablets dont have potential but currently they seem to be
little more than internet 'appliances'.

Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Programmer's Reference iPhone App Available

2010-04-29 Thread Matt Palmer
And then an app needs to be written that supports all that, I'll still
stick to cheap available hardware over vapor ware myself. And wait
until tablets come into their own (again, I had an original newton too
bad they didn't take off with that). I do suppose someone has to be a
trail blazer.
Matt
W8ESE




On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 12:04 PM, Kok Chen c...@mac.com wrote:

 On Apr 29, 2010, at 4/29    9:26 AM, Matt Palmer wrote:

 ... ipad doesn't have i/o at all, no audio input...

 You are probably not aware that the iPad's Camera Connection Kit
 supports a USB Class Compliant sound card.

 73
 Chen, W7AY

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500

2010-04-19 Thread Matt Palmer
Switching supply can do much better than 50% efficiency, I've designed
several for use in PA's that are close to 95% efficient. The
dominating inefficiency is usually in the PA


Matt
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 active devices!!

2010-04-18 Thread Matt Palmer
Well said tom, an often overlooked aspect is the angle of the
mismatch, load pull is the only way to tell, while a 3:1 resitive is
not to harsh, very few things will survive a 3:1 at an inductive
reactance angle. Load pull is the only way to be sure, and I would be
uncomfortable making any claims until such a test has been done.


Matt
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Re: [Elecraft] Testing anti-static mats - found one that works

2010-04-08 Thread Matt Palmer
How are you measuring resistance?


Matt
W8ESE




On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 6:53 PM, Alan Bloom a...@elecraft.com wrote:
 It is important to use an anti-static mat to prevent damage to
 electronic devices when working on solid-state equipment.  Since
 Elecraft is heavily kit-oriented this is a topic of interest for
 Elecrafters.

 Quite some time ago I did some testing on the Radio Shack portable
 anti-static mat and found that its resistance was way too high to do a
 proper job of bleeding off static charges.  I then bought another
 low-cost mat from Jameco and it also measured way too high.  I began to
 doubt my testing methodology (described in a previous message, copied
 below).

 So now I have bought a third mat.  This one is more expensive, but
 unlike the cheaper mats it has an actual data sheet that specifies that
 it meets ANSI specs for anti-static performance.  I figured if it also
 measured bad then my testing must be in error.

 But it didn't.  Here are the results:

 Radio Shack P/N 276-2370 ($22.99) - 26 G ohms (26,000 M ohms)
 Jameco P/N 10584 ($16.45) - 44 G ohms (44,000 M ohms)
 Digi-Key P/N 16-1121-ND, (Desco 66164) ($38.18) - 41 M ohms

 The Desco mat's resistance is about 1000x lower than the cheaper ones!

 This mat is quite large, (2 x 3 feet, 61 x 91.4 cm) so if you buy one
 you may need to cut it down to fit on your workbench.  It comes with a
 common point ground kit (that you have to install on the mat yourself)
 that provides a long wire with solder lug to connect to ground and a
 two-socket connector for connecting one or two wrist straps.  The wrist
 strap and cord have to be purchased separately.  It looks like Digi-Key
 P/N SCP172-ND for $8.95 should work.

 So the total cost is about $47.  But the cheap mats are no bargain if
 they don't work.

 I tried cleaning the surface of the mats with some wipes that are
 especially intended for cleaning anti-static mats (Digi-Key MTT20-ND)
 and they did help.  The Radio Shack mat went from 26 to 6 Gohms and the
 Jameco went from 44 to about 12 Gohms.  But those numbers are still way
 too high.  The Desco mat's resistance also went down, from 41 to 20
 Mohms.

 The Desco mat came with a small spray bottle of Rezstore, their own
 brand of mat cleaner.

 By the way, the back side of the Desco mat is some kind of
 highly-conductive black rubber, apparently to keep the entire mat
 surface at equal potential.  They warn that you should always use it
 blue side up because the resistance of the back side is too low.  Sure
 enough, it was low enough to measure with my digital multimeter - about
 80 kohms.

 So my recommendation is to buy a mat such as the Desco model that has a
 data sheet that specifies that it meets ANSI/ESD S4.1 or ANSI/ESD
 S20.20.  If you already have the Radio Shack mat, then either replace it
 or at least clean it with a cleaner approved for ESD mats.  (You're not
 supposed to use soap or detergent because it might harm the anti-static
 properties.)  Gary KI4GGX recommends a product made by Techspray:
 http://www.all-spec.com/products/1733-QT.html

 Whatever you use, it is important to keep the mat clean.

 A word about my test procedure.  Accuracy is not very good because I am
 trying to read the peak amplitude of a brief needle flicker.  If I had
 an analog meter with a high-impedance input that would work better
 because the reading wouldn't change so fast.  Also my sauce pans no
 doubt do not give the same answer as the ANSI-specified test probes.  So
 overall, I doubt my measurement accuracy is better than +/- 50% or so.
 But for the purposes of this test that's good enough.

 In the test procedure below I had to substitute a 1.0 uF capacitor when
 measuring the Tesco mat in order to get a long-enough time constant to
 measure accurately.  (Also, it's actually a Triplett meter, not a
 Simpson.)

 Alan N1AL



 On Wed, 2008-02-27 at 09:51 -0800, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Well, I've convinced myself that the Radio Shack portable ESD mat, P/N
 276-2370 doesn't work properly.

 The ESD Association http://www.esda.org has promulgated an
 industry-standard test for ESD mats, ESD S4.1.  It is the standard
 specified by most commercial mats.  I decided not to spring for the $70
 to buy a copy of the standard, but other information I found on the web
 describes the test in general terms.  It uses two circular electrodes,
 each weighted with 5 pounds, spaced 10 inches apart on the mat.  The
 Point to Point Resistance is specified to be:

 At 40-60% RH: 10^6 - 10^7 ohms
 At 20-40% RH: 10^7 - 10^8 ohms
 At 10-20% RH: 10^8 - 10^9 ohms

 I don't know what the RH here in Santa Rosa was yesterday when I did the
 test, but I don't think it was very low since it has been raining
 recently and the ground is still damp.  For sure the resistance
 shouldn't be below 10^9 ohms (1 gigohm) and probably more like 10^8 or
 10^7 (100 or 10 megohms).

 I measured 2.5 x 10^10 ohms (25 gigohms), which puts the Radio Shack mat
 way out of spec.

 Test 

Re: [Elecraft] OT Sound Card and USB to Serial Port Hub

2010-04-05 Thread Matt Palmer
If you need more slots then build a real computer. Shouldn't be too
hard to get a case and a motherboard that will support whatever
processor and ram you have, with more pci/pciE slots to make the
upgrade cheaply.

Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Sound Card and USB to Serial Port Hub

2010-04-05 Thread Matt Palmer
  My observation is that the motherboards for desktop/tower
  computers are having less and less slots as time goes by.

Most certainly not true, in fact the trend is going the other way,
with some of the newer mobo's designed to support 4x graphics cards in
parallell, they have more slots, all depends on which board you buy,
full ATX or extendedATX will have the plethera of slots. I have linked
to one below with 7 PCIx slots, if you do some searching you can find
something that would suit your needs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131390


Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] Bare Foot

2010-03-29 Thread Matt Palmer
Foot straps are pretty common , but are useless unless you have
conductive floors (always get in arguments with QA as my lab has non
conductive floors, and they want to get rid of all the chairs without
draggers).

Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] Are K3 boards built overseas?

2010-02-21 Thread Matt Palmer
most die comes out of shenzen or malaysia. Packages are usually korea,
assembly and testing happens everywhere for components, places like TI
and IR have fabs in the states still, but not all of their parts come
out of them.

Matt
W8ESE
sent from my VIC-20
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Amps

2010-02-12 Thread Matt Palmer
David, there is no reason they couldn't package it with the PA other
than input source differences. If its a single platform, or use PA, we
will include power conditioning with it. The cases where we dont the
PA is used on multiple platforms and has to run from 1275, 704, 400
cycle, 3 phase etc. And it makes sense for the power conditioner to be
a platform independent kit. If you look at most radios as well, they
require the power supply external so you have the choice depending
on where you are plugging it in or if you are running of batteries.


Matt
W8ESE



On Fri, Feb 12, 2010 at 1:51 PM, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 There must be a really good reason why amplifiers don't use on-board
 switching supplies to get the weight and size down even further.  An awful
 lot of folks are using rigs powered by switchers which are obviously quiet
 enough.  Ameritron is an exception, but it's still outboard.

 Perhaps an Elecraft amplifier would be good for dxpeditioners just as is the
 K3, ie concentration on light weight and performance.

 David
 G3UNA



 On Fri, 2010-02-12 at 08:33 -0600, Bob Naumann wrote:

 As an alternative, the Acom 1000 using a tube final (for those who prefer
 valves in their final) is similar in price/output, but it is manually
 tuned
 and runs about 1k out on all bands 160 through 6m.

 I have (heavily) used my Acom1000 for nearly 9 years now. It works great
 with my K3 on all bands. It is a full QSK amp.
 I have also used it for 6m EME
 I have had a few small issues with the Acom over the years, in each case
 Acom's support was both speedy and superb

 --
 73
 Brendan EI6IZ


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Re: [Elecraft] K2: winding T5

2010-02-08 Thread Matt Palmer
The solder blob method takes a little trick, you have to sit on the
end of the wire long enough for the insulation to melt (heat has to
transfer to the wire). I usually just scrape with a xacto these days
and then tin, I think it is cleaner and easier than solder blob. When
I built my K2 I used a lighter to burn the insulation and sandpaper to
clean it up. It is just as effective.
Matt
W8ESE




On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 11:31 AM, lstavenhagen lstavenha...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Ok, thanks Don.

 I feel kind of guilty because seems like I should have a bunch more
 questions. But I'm just not having that much trouble so far. even grounding
 the crystal cans went pretty smoothly hi hi once I read all the suggestions
 on how to do it (tin the cans first! Then hold the ground leads in place by
 putting a spare anti-static pad leftover from the IC's under the board and
 sticking them into it through the grounding holes).

 As for tinning the toroid leads, I did find that the solder blob method was
 ineffective. Perhaps a 700F tip just doesn't get hot enough to melt the
 insulation? Instead, I'm sanding the leads first with a bit of sandpaper to
 get the stuff mostly off then tinning. This gives a very nice tin on the
 wires and good solder connection on the board.

 Is this meant to be done with an 800F or hotter tip?

 Thanks es 73,
 LS
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K2-winding-T5-tp4531587p4535190.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Panadapter Setup for K2 - Where can I read-up on this? Goos source for advice?

2010-01-12 Thread Matt Palmer
check here for softrocks.

http://www.kb9yig.com/

they are still in high demand so you may have to check daily to see
when more are added.

Matt
W8ESE



On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 9:12 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Dean,

 The plan for the P3 as I have heard it is to also support the K2 IF, and
 I cannot recall if the LP-PAN is available with an IF input to match the
 K2 IF.  You would need a buffer amplifier added to your K2 to bring the
 IF signal out.  There is a version of Jack Smith's Z1 buffer
 amplifier kit just for that purpose.  Check
 http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/z1_buffer_amp.htm for more
 information.
 You will also find on that same page that you can use a Softrock
 receiver to produce the panoramic display on a computer display rather
 than a P3 or LP-PAN if that less expensive alternative appeals to you.
 (I don't know how many SoftRock 6.2 boards Tony Parks has available, but
 you can ask).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Dean wrote:
 I am looking for a source for good advice to set up a panadaper, software 
 etc for the K2. Best to get/build, how to set it up etc.

 Thanks in advance for your help!

 Dean
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Re: [Elecraft] My Predicament

2010-01-07 Thread Matt Palmer
Anyone else get this mail from the elecraft list? Its spam/scam. Can
the mods do something to plug their holes.


THX.


On Thu, Jan 7, 2010 at 2:14 PM, Rick Klingensmith kling...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 Happy new year! How you doing? We made a trip to London (United
 Kingdom) unannounced some days back, Unfortunately we got mugged at
 gun point last night! All cash, Credit cards and phone were stolen, we
 got messed up in another country, stranded in London, fortunately
 passport was back in my hotel room. It was a bitter experience and i
 was hurt on my right hand, but would be fine. I am sending you this
 message cos i don't want anyone to panic, we want you to keep it that
 way for now!

 Our return flight leaves in a few hours but I’m having troubles
 sorting out the hotel bills, wondering if you could loan me some money
 to sort out the hotel bills and also take a cab to the airport about
 ($1,500). I have been to the police and embassy here, but they aren't
 helping issues, I have limited means of getting out of here, we
 canceled our cards already and made a police report, I won’t get a new
 card number till I get back home! So I really need your help.

 You could wire whatever you can spare to my name and Location via
 Western union, below is all you need:

 Name - Rick Klingensmith

 Location - London, United Kingdom.

 I still have my passport so I can use it as identification, email me the
 transfer details and the confirmation # would def refund it to you once
 we arrive hopefully tomorrow.

 I await your reply soon.

 Regards
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-06 Thread Matt Palmer
know this topic is closed but I would like to point out, I buy stuff
from japan all the time for martial arts (kendo) It is cheaper for me
in the USA to buy stuff from japan than it is for a Japanese person in
japan (significantly so, sometimes as much as 50% cheaper) because I
dont have to pay their equivalent of VAT. It is all relative.

Matt
W8ESE




On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 7:57 AM, David Yarnes w7...@cox.net wrote:
 Somebody is double counting (or triple counting) what is shown on the PDF.
 Probably confusing since the description is in japanese.  They are showing,
 I presume, a model as a kit, and then as a pre-built unit, etc.  It looks
 like the basic 10 watt kit is around 300,000 yen, which is something like
 $3,000, but that's before other add-ons.  Anyway, a K3, fully loaded, is
 nowhere near $21,000 for a japanese buyer!  Nonetheless, it does add up to a
 significantly higher cost than we pay here in the U.S.

 Dave W7AQK




 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com
 To: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese


 Hector:

 According to several currency calculators:

   2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD

 Whew.

 73,

 Tom   N0SS

 At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not
render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-05 Thread Matt Palmer
Need to learn to count there hector, that number seems a bit high
based on my calculation more like 6-7k. 1 yen roughly equals $0.01. So
not so much. I think you added multiple K3's in there, if you just
added up all the colums. The price is even lower if you dont get
factory built.


Matt
W8ESE
心正即刀正



On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Hector:

 According to several currency calculators:

   2,014,200 JPY = $21,983.0832 USD

 Whew.

 73,

 Tom   N0SS

 At 09:38 01/05/2010, you wrote:
WOW ! according that pdf
document(http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf) If we add all the
modules and filters price for a fully loaded K3,it will cost in
japan 2,014,200 (two million fourteen thousand two hundred)yens,can
anyone say how many USD is that amount,sounds like a lot

AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:25 PM


From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

  WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be
 then over 5 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not
render properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100

2009-12-09 Thread Matt Palmer
Don,

Gold embrittlement is still a problem, and we have a chem egr dept
that spends a great deal of their time analyzing gold plated parts to
determine if we need to either slim down the gold plate or possible
dip the IC's to avoid these issues.

Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] KUSB Adaptor

2009-11-20 Thread Matt Palmer
Usb can be a noisy thing, there are many reasons you wouldnt want it
inside the radio Not to mention the exercise in writing drivers
alone is herculean.


Matt
W8ESE




On Fri, Nov 20, 2009 at 12:41 PM, Phil Hystad k7...@comcast.net wrote:
 Actually, I was confused about the KUSB option.  I actually thought it was a 
 built-in USB port and when I learned it was merely a serial to USB 
 connector and cable I then scratched the KUSB off of my budding proposed 
 configuration.  This is because I have a number of such serial to USB cables 
 and certainly I would find one that would work.

 So, I am putting my vote in on a future option to integrate a built-in USB 
 port instead of, or in addition to, the serial port.  I understand that there 
 are still quite a few ham operators that operate with yesterday's computer 
 technology and may not even have USB capability.  I am on the other side, I 
 have no serial port capability on any of my computers (all Apple mac and one 
 Windows 7 laptop).

 phil, K7PEH

 P.S.  I hope to put in my K3 order before Christmas.  I won't have the time 
 to put it together until January anyway so I will have to wait a bit.


 On Nov 20, 2009, at 9:28 AM, Bob Maser wrote:

 Why doesn't the design team at Elecraft incorporate a USB port on the back
 of the K3 instead of the outdated serial port?  They could offer a kit that
 would use the hole that is now labeled RS232. There might be room for 2 USB
 ports or mini ports.

 Bob Maser
 W6TR (waiting for Elecraft to repair my new K3)

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kits

2009-11-02 Thread Matt Palmer
while I had access to sophisticated test equipment I built my K2 in a
hotel room with a DMM i got for free from a sales creature and a
norcal smt dummy load kit. I dont think you even need the DMM for the
K2 because it has one built in.


Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 MTBF

2009-10-26 Thread Matt Palmer
Such a number is really meaningless to an amateur and without
information on the method in which it was computed.

Matt
W8ESE




On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 1:39 PM,  rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:
 Does anyone know the MTBF of the K3...?
 Gary
 K3 ser# 679
 VK4WT/P
 Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: a quick question about solder

2009-08-19 Thread Matt Palmer
Military will always use lead solder, it is the easiest way for wider
pitch parts to self mitigate for tin whiskers.

Matt
W8ESE
心正即刀正



On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 6:54 AM, d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 Hi Paul

 I think it will soon be impossible to buy any electronic apparatus built 
 using machine soldering that is NOT RoHS compliant.  That will cover all 
 manufacturing: amateur, professional, domestic, military.  The manufacture of 
 parts has swung that way and soldering baths have been re-filled with 
 lead-free solder.  Anything not lead-free must be made on a separate 
 production line and it will soon be uneconomic to run two lines in the same 
 factory because the parts will not be available.

 I think you will have a tough time finding a manufacturer who can tell you 
 they do not use RoHS components.  Of course if they have stock left over, you 
 have a chance, but that can only be on older designs.  All new designs will 
 use RoHS-compliant parts.

 Pretty much all of EU is now RoHS and we buy most of our parts from the East. 
  I don't know the situation in the US but I can't see them being able to make 
 a non-RoHS compliant product when the big eastern suppliers turn to RoHS 
 compliance.

 I am intrigued to know what it is about the RoHS process that you don't like.

 David
 G3UNA


  paul alexander wb9...@gmail.com wrote:
 Before purchasing my K3, I e-mailed Elecraft and specifically asked if
 the K3 was built on a RoHS process.  I was told that units destined
 for the US were built using leaded solder.  My concern was that I did
 not want a radio built using a RoHS process and this was a reason for
 purchasing the K3 rather than something else.  I hope I was not given
 incorrect information.

 Paul Alexander
 wb9ipa

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

2009-07-26 Thread Matt Palmer
ENIG is better but unless its class 3 equipment it doesnt make much
difference


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO




On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?

 I should explain:
 ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
 or
 IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)

 For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
 more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
 when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
 cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
 referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
 accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
 cost. ;)

 ~BTH

 On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 David,

 I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 David Heinsohn wrote:
    I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the
  circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than
  silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different
  and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a
  board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
 
  TNX
  de
  KD0R
  David
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a good battery/charging system for K1

2009-06-19 Thread Matt Palmer
If cost is not an issue, look into A123 battery packs, either thru
buddipole or hfprojects, or you could order cells and roll your own.


Matt
W8ESE



On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 7:25 AM, Michael Babineaumbabin...@magma.ca wrote:
 John :

 Here is a few battery suggestions for your portable K1 station.

 If you want 5W you will need a 12V+ pack. If you are willing to settle
 for about 3w out the K1 will hum along
 nicely at 9 to 10V. It is quite a miserly rig so you can easily manage
 a day outing with battery capacity
 in the range of 2 to 3 Ah.

 I use a couple of different packs depending on the circumstances.

 My suggestions :

 1) a small sealed lead acid (aka GEL-Cell) battery in the range of 2
 to 3 Ah
 - Walmart also sells a good little charger for SLAs for about $25
   called the EverStart Battery Companion (1.5Amp trickle charger).
   It is actually a 3-stage smart charger perfect for SLAs that are =
 2Ah.

 2) 9v (actually closer to about 10.5V when fully charged) R/C NiMH
 battery packs
 The Radio Control  packs you should be able to get at Radio Shack
 along with the proper charger.
 Radio Shack usually sells a combo pack with a charger (part 23-432)
 for about $20.
 These packs are  in the 1500 to 1700 mAh range.
 If you go this route I suggest you buy a 2nd pack so you have a
 backup. Another good idea is
 to cut the leads on the pack and solder appropriately rated pico-fuses
 on both leads (these
 look like resistors) then put heat-shrink tubing over them and tape
 the leads against the body
 of the pack with electrical tape (the pic-fuses are a bit fragile so
 you don't want break them).
 (Hint, these packs also fit inside a FT-817 and make a good cheap
 internal battery for that rig.)

 3) Go with rechargeable AA cells. You can buy 8 and 10 cell holders
 depending on what voltage you
 want (note that NiMHs are nominally about 1.2V when fully charged).
 You can find lots of these at  WalMart, Radio
 Shack etc, along with 4 cell quick chargers. I would go with a
 reputable name (ie Duracell etc) rather than the
 no-name ones and try to buy cells that  are in the 2000 mAh range.
 Note that the K1 will tolerate up to about 15V in so you can use a 10
 cell holder if you are using NiMH
 rechargables. In practice I have found that a 10 cell holder with
 NiMHs will give 13+ V when fully charged which
 is perfect.


 For safety reasons, (both yours and the rig) I strongly recommend that
 you fuse whatever battery solution
 you decide on and don't forget that you need to be careful with NiMH
 packs as these batteries
 can generate a very very high current for a short period of time if
 shorted out. Needless to say this
 can result in burns or even an explosion.

 Best of luck

 Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB

 P.S. Another related idea. I standardized my QRP power connections on
 a 2 pin Molex connector (polarized).
 Most of my battery packs have a short pigtail with the female version
 of this Molex and I have a slightly longer
 length of wire that is fused and has the male Molex on one end and the
 appropriate coaxial power connector that fits into the K1.
 This allows me some flexibility in how I power my K1. For instance I
 have a cigarette lighter plug that has the
 female Molex so I can use this adaptor to plug my K1 into the
 cigarette lighter jack in my car if I want to operate
  from the car.  For some of my otherQRP rigs like the ATS3 that have
 a different power connector I just made up a fused power cord
 that has the male Molex on it so I can use any of the battery options
 that I already have for the K1.
 I found that this modular approach works very well.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: transistor theory flaw

2009-05-28 Thread Matt Palmer
I disagree, the experts are always right, its just the people who are
claiming to be an 'expert' are not always so. I hear this in a
commencement speach this year keep a healthy disregard for the
impossible and all engineers should have this. This 'flaw' in
transistor theory only presents itself in high density IC if you read
the article, and I would suspect it has to do with no longer being
able to follow partical theory, which is what works for discrete
transistors, soon as things get small enough, wave theory takes over,
and common conventions are no longer valid, however maxwells equations
always apply to both... its just the terms you ignored in certain
cases start to become significant. I would bet this follows the press
release model found here:
http://www.phdcomics.com/comics/archive.php?comicid=1174 and some
liberties are being taken with interpretation.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 9:42 AM, Sandyebj...@charter.net wrote:
 This reminds me of Major Edwin Armstrong's saying he used so much,
 especially when he was told by Crosby that wideband FM would not be
 practical.

 Amstrong retorted to himself with It's what we know that ain't always so!
 (or something very close to that.)

 I have seen phenomena regarding grounding of marine transmitters and
 presence of RF in strange places where it should not be MANY TIMES.  Also
 other things regarding feeders and antennas on ships that would not work as
 advrtised, or as the engineers claimed they would!

 I still have one occurnce of something that happened during trouble shooting
 of a 35' shipboard vertical with a top hat that occurred on the 425-515
 Khz. band nobody yet has given me a valid explanation for.

 The experts are not always even close to right all the time!

 73,

 Sandy W5TVW

 - Original Message -
 From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
 To: 'Elecraft Group' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 10:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: transistor theory flaw


 Tnx Mike.

 It reminds me that vacuum tube theory wasn't understood for many years
 after
 they were developed. Shoot, here in the USA DeForest thought a vacuum tube
 *needed* some gas to work properly (and his tubes all had abysmally low
 gain
 as a result).

 If what the learned experts knew was right, Marconi would never have
 been
 successful. For decades they had stated that electromagnetic (radio) waves
 were useless for communications over any significant distance.

 What everyone knows, including everything we learned in school, is
 always
 open to question.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 I just read this short article and thought many on the list might find
 it interesting:

 http://eetimes.com/news/latest/showArticle.jhtml;jsessionid=NQXUQGBIEWGHCQSN
 DLRSKH0CJUNN2JVN?articleID=217600659

 If that URL gets broken, here is a smaller url to the same:

    http://tinyurl.com/o4cwpj

 73,
 Mike ab3ap

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 08:10:00

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Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscopes

2009-05-21 Thread Matt Palmer
I would stay away from early hp digitals, they are nothing but
trouble, just take my word on this one, you are better off with a 2430
(might have dyslexic on the number)

The new digital lunchboxes are nice too, and if you know what you are
doing you have no problems, I attribute the 'old timers' being wary of
them to not knowing how to properly use them. Since I grew up with a
infiinium, i've never had a problem seeing and removing aliasing
errors and others, but you have to have a decent sense for what to
expect to see, and know which way to turn what knobs to make it look
right. (like adjusting sample rate etc.)


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 11:23 AM, Alan Bloomn...@cds1.net wrote:
 On Thu, 2009-05-21 at 08:13 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 I agree with Don, I like analog scopes. Any time a signal is taken to bits
 (literally!) and then reassembled there are display artifacts and some
 accuracy of the waveform is lost but, you're quite right, analog scopes are
 *big* and heavy.

 I also dislike most digital oscilloscopes.  On most of them, it is
 obvious that the user interface was designed by a software person, hot a
 hardware engineer.  I hate having to search through multiple layers of
 menus to access some simple function.

 However, the HP54600-series oscilloscopes are different.  They combine
 the advantages of digital with the look and feel of an analog scope.
 There are separate knobs for all the most-used functions.  The design
 team was lead by Bob Witte K0NR who knows a thing or two about what a
 hardware engineer wants in an oscilloscope.

 HP/Agilent no longer sells the 546XX, but you can occasionally find one
 on the used market.  Scanning down the list on Ebay I see an HP54620A
 (version with built-in logic analyzer) with a starting bid of $200, two
 54610B's (500 MHz, dual channel) starting at $700 and $725, HP54600A
 with optional GPIB module $500, etc.

 Again, good digital scopes are the more expensive scopes.

 Generally true.  I bought mine brand new (with employee discount) some
 years ago and have never regretted it.  For once in my life, it's nice
 to have a no-compromise, reliable piece of test equipment.

 By the way, if you do decide on analog, the HP1740 100 MHz scope is a
 very good choice.  (Much better than most of the analog scopes HP came
 out with over the years.)   They often show up on Ebay.

 Al N1AL



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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft stuff (surface mount)

2009-05-21 Thread Matt Palmer
I dont think SMT is that bad, then again I am young, when I brought
this up to a ham I met at FDIM he told me he is blind in one eye and
has more than 3db on me in age, so there are no excuses, its like mike
fright but with building, just try them sometime. I find smt is easier
to work with than thru hole IMHO.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 9:53 PM, Brett
Gazdzinskibrett.gazdzin...@verizon.net wrote:
 I could do surface mount, I would think some aspects of it is easier, but
 its hard to see the values on some through hole parts in the k2, and
 figuring out what parts go where in something like a K2 kit would NOT be fun
 I think

 I almost needed a microscope for some K2 parts as it is...

 Brett
 N2DTS

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-200

2009-05-19 Thread Matt Palmer
a external 200-400 watt amp is a fairly trivial design, if you want
one order some parts and get building. You could do this with a couple
813's for pretty low cost, or solid state for a bit more money. I'm
surprised how many people sit on their rear end and complain about
this or that product not existing, and how elecraft should design one
for them. Start acting like hams and try rolling your own, you have
complete control over the feature set you want then. If you are
unwilling to do this, I think you have no business clogging the
reflector with your criticisms and wish lists, why not keep the posts
on topic to actual elecraft products, their building, and
troubleshooting.


/end rant.

Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] Price promo on K3 at Dayton?

2009-05-16 Thread Matt Palmer
charging state tax, totally bogus IMHO, Hendricks was doing the same
thing, must be a california thing.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 8:01 PM, David Wilburn dave.wilb...@verizon.net wrote:
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-or-SDR-5000--td457400.html

 http://n2.nabble.com/SDR---K3---and-GUI-Interface-td447927.html

 You can do all kinds of flexible searches here;
 http://n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-f365791.html

 Flexible, he he, too funny, I made a punny.

 Dave Wilburn
 NM4M

 David Christ wrote:
 Please summarize the differences in philosophy that you noticed.

 David K0LUM

 Adam Koczarski wrote

 Also heard Lyle talk about the K3 as an SDR. Basically what I heard at the
 presentation he gave at his house last year.
 Prior to Lyle's presentation there was a presentation about the Flex.
 Differing philosophies were apparent. Maybe a few barbs back and forth. :)

 Adam - K3ARK

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Fan Upgrade Question

2009-05-13 Thread Matt Palmer
I wonder if elecraft actually does thermal and vibrational stress
analysis, I've always been curious what the natural frequency of my K2
is, as well as what the rise from board to chassis is in a 71C
environment :)


Matt
W8ESE



On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:16 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF
m0...@alphadene.co.uk wrote:
 I don't understand why you are looking to upgrade over the std spec -
 surely elecraft have considered all the possibilities of ambient temp
 to run in - unless of course you are operation in an oven?
 :-)

 --
 Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it
 takes in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci

 On 13 May 2009, at 13:11, Brian Binkley wrote:

 Hello,

 I am currently in the process of upgrading the fans for the KPA3 100
 Watt
 Amplifier module because the heatsink temperature gets too high for my
 liking. I am upgrading both fans to a fan with higher CFM output.
 Last night
 I hooked both fans up to the KPAIO module to test and see if they
 will work.
 When I am on fan power level one, the fans try to but are unable to
 start
 up. I have to bump them to start them spinning. Power level two has no
 problem spinning them up. When I went to power level four and then
 brought
 the power level to one, the fans did not have any problem continuing
 running. The fan specs can be found here
 http://www.sundialmicro.com/ipcqueen_dc_fan_606010_ball_bearing_3pin_2033_1199.html
 .
 Is there any components that I can add in line to provide the
 necessary
 power to start the fans up at power level one?

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[Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue

2009-05-02 Thread Matt Palmer
Got my KSB2 to the point where I am running the BFO setup for LSB/USB,
i get all the way thru setting the LSB/BF!t frequency, I hit band- to
return to the BFO parameter display, but when i hit mode to change the
mode I am getting an info 230 message, and they K2 kicks me out of the
menu without saving the settings. Not sure where to go from here,
guidance would be appreciated.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue

2009-05-02 Thread Matt Palmer
Discovered my freq counter probe is intermittent, trying to fix, but
ordered a new one from elecraft just in case, guess i'll have to
shelve the k2 until the new one arrives.

Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Sat, May 2, 2009 at 12:14 PM, Matt Palmer kd8...@gmail.com wrote:
 Got my KSB2 to the point where I am running the BFO setup for LSB/USB,
 i get all the way thru setting the LSB/BF!t frequency, I hit band- to
 return to the BFO parameter display, but when i hit mode to change the
 mode I am getting an info 230 message, and they K2 kicks me out of the
 menu without saving the settings. Not sure where to go from here,
 guidance would be appreciated.


 Matt
 W8ESE
 Former KD8DAO
 http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com

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[Elecraft] K2 for sale

2009-04-13 Thread Matt Palmer
It looks like I need to unload my second K2 to fund other Ham radio
things (darn this is an expensive hobby)

K2 S/N 4740, including: KAT2 Ant Tuner and KNB2 Noise Blanker

$625 Shipped to US


Matt
W8ESE
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Re: [Elecraft] I need your help...Spammer

2009-04-08 Thread Matt Palmer
conficker doesnt do anything yet, it has the potential to be a spambot
net, but it hasnt done anything except phone home so far.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 7:46 AM, David Wilburn dave.wilb...@verizon.net wrote:
 There is a very bad bug out now, one of many that preys specifically
 on systems that are not patched.  I think we are seeing the result of
 people not keeping their system patched, or using older OS's that are
 no longer patched by MS.  Bad MS, no cookie!

 How often have you heard someone say, I stopped letting Windows
 update my machine, it keeps messing it up.

 Conflicter was already out in 4 strains, and as it becomes more
 successful, it will be re-written to do more, thus it will likely mutate.

 Dave Wilburn
 NM4M

 Thom LaCosta wrote:
 At 06:53 AM 04/08/09, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Paul is a valid member of this reflector. But notice the undisclosed
 recipients.
 I would believe his computer has picked up a virus that is using his
 email contact list.

 Of course someone could contact him and ask if he sent it.

 If he did, then it would end the speculation on the list
 If he did not, then he might realize his system was infected
 or
 We could keep on posting and wondering and conjuring reasons.

 73,
 Thom k3hrn
 Sometimes the simplest approach is the one that works

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Re: [Elecraft] BL-2 Connection To An Unbalanced Wire Antenna

2009-04-01 Thread Matt Palmer
Ahh now you are no longer talking about RF ground but the black art of
EMI. Its not to difficult to determine RF ground, you have to have
very good spatial visualization, the ability to hold the 3D model of
the board, chassis and housing in your head, and you need to think
like an electron. It takes practice, but being relatively
inexperienced i've gotten the hang of it after being involved in the
successful design of 2 radios, but then again I have fantastic mentors
and elmers. In the end everything is explained by Maxwell's equations
and if 1/10th of the ham population took the time to understand how
these fantastic formula work and what they mean, 99% of this confusion
and most of the half truths you see passed around as 'common
knowledge' would disappear.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 6:04 PM, Jack Brindle jackbrin...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I have to agree with Jim on this one. Perhaps the biggest concept drilled 
 into me by the RF engineers I worked with at Motorola (I was a 
 digital/software/comm engineer) is that there is no such thing as RF ground. 
 RF can, and is, conducted on any path that it wants. This is especially true 
 for the so-called ground and power paths, which while appearing to be 
 well bypassed, still will carry RF currents. The problem was really drilled 
 home when I had to track down a problem with a 450 MHz handheld data 
 transceiver being desensed. The cause was the 250th harmonic of the 
 microcontroller main clock, which placed a 14 uV signal on the receiver 
 input. The signal was being conducted on the system ground, including 
 shielding, and into the receiver front-end. How do you solve it? Shift the 
 crystal frequency when on problematic channels.

 So, while the concept of a common ground which carries no signals may be an 
 interesting one, in practice it simply does not exist.

 - Jack Brindle, W6FB.

 -Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Sent: Apr 1, 2009 2:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BL-2 Connection To An Unbalanced Wire Antenna

Jim, IMX it's a mistake to equate RF ground with an Earth connection.

An RF ground is just a low-impedance, low-reactance current sink for RF.
Of course it is an integral part of the antenna circuit.

An RF ground would not be expected to radiate, and most counterpoise or
radial setups don't radiate a significant amount of energy*:

1) Counterpoises near the Earth and on-ground radials tend to couple all
their energy into the lossy dielectric of the Earth, never to be seen again.
This is how BCB stations achieve a good RF ground generally using 120 0.2
wavelength radials around their towers to couple the RF into the Earth.

2) Elevated radials will radiate a lot unless they are carefully balanced
and symmetrical so legs produce RF fields that cancel each other outside
of the immediate area of the antenna. Such radials, like any RF ground,
*are* part of the antenna circuit but, when properly designed, they are a
non-radiating current sink. In the common ground plane designs, they
also decouple the radiating element from the feed line, providing an RF
ground not only for the radiator but also grounding the feed line at the
antenna so RF currents don't flow down the outside of the coax shield.

Ron AC7AC

* Students have asked me what happens if they use only one radial with a 1/4
wave antenna. I reply that if they make it 1/4 wave long, then elevate them
both into the air and arrange them to run in opposite directions for maximum
efficiency, one 'radial' works just fine. If they draw out the antenna I
described on paper they'll recognize the common center fed dipole antenna.
In that case, there's no problem with the radial radiating.


-Original Message-

On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 18:43:39 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

But it *IS* a ground for RF purposes

Nope! It has NO relationship with the earth, nor is one needed. This
use of the word ground is an ongoing source of confusion and
misunderstandings. Hams to go extremes to install ground rods,
thinking that it will improve the performance of their antennas or
make their radios quieter or fix RFI. A connection to earth does NOT
do any of those things. It IS critical for lightning protection.
That's all.

Radials are not GROUND in any sense. They are part of the antenna!
Indeed, their purpose is to intercept the fields produced by the
antenna and by providing a low resistance path for return currents,
prevent those fields from producing current in the lossy earth.
There is an excellent discussion of this by Rudy Severns, N6LF, both
in the ARRL Antenna Book and on his website.

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Crystal heater for better stability???

2009-03-26 Thread Matt Palmer
I'm a general dummy, but I dont think that simply adding a heater will
do what you want, but then again when i think of stability my brain
usually thinks of 0.5ppb over a 20year life of a radio.

Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 1:26 AM, Mike-WE0H w...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Has anyone added a crystal heater to their K2? If I would add a heater
 to my K2, what oscillator would be the best one to do it to or should I
 heat both the 4mc  the 12.xx mc crystals? The radio is decent as is but
 I am used to zero drift when I work the Part 5 Experimental bands with
 my other radio's. I want to make my K2 very stable as it will be used on
 those bands.

 Many thanks,
 Mike
 WE0H
 K2 6698
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Re: [Elecraft] Bose noise canceling headphones

2009-03-19 Thread Matt Palmer
I tried a pair in a bose store and was unimpressed, cant turn the gain
up enough, so I built my own, they are a safety hazard now :)

Matt
W8ESE



On Thu, Mar 19, 2009 at 3:24 PM, Darwin, Keith
keith.dar...@goodrich.com wrote:

 A lot of guys here at work have the Bose NC headphones to try to cancel
 out nearby office noise.  I suspect they work OK in that application and
 no better.

 Doesn't Bose have a liberal return policy?  You could answer your own
 question by ordering a pair and seeing if they work for you.  If not,
 ship them back for a refund.

 I use a pair of $100 Sony over the ear headphones with my K3.  They're
 not noise cancelling but they do reduce the background noise enough to
 be worth having.

 - Keith N1AS -
 - K3 711 -

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of dw

 I've always wondered how well Bose noise cancelling phones worked.
 Do they really cancel noise external to the head-set?

 There are times when I have trouble with noises in the house, and I
 would love it if the head-phones could totally cancel all that out.
 But not sure how far advertised is from reality  :)
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Re: [Elecraft] Your thoughts on EMP and protecting K3/K2

2009-03-14 Thread Matt Palmer
all you need for a NED is a scr, the more tactful approach is to
characterize the die's response to being irradiated and created
irradiated vs normal models and play it all in simulink, all depends
on how much the customer wants to spend for FEMECA

Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 3:50 PM, Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Replace all of the solid state stuff with vacuum tubes.

 Some of the ways semiconductors are affected are noted here:

 http://www.mse.vt.edu/faculty/hendricks/mse4206/projects97/group02/effects.htm

 In some tactical missiles, single events are dealt with with nuclear event 
 detectors (NED) that shut down critical circuits gracefully.  One of the 
 bigger worries is voltage regulators which when upset of course quit 
 regulating, which can cause multiple failures.



 --- On Sat, 3/14/09, Bill Maddock n4z...@yahoo.com wrote:

 From: Bill Maddock n4z...@yahoo.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] Your thoughts on EMP and protecting K3/K2
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, 12:43 PM
 With things ramping up internationally and talk
 of possibility of either nucleur strike or dirty bombs,
 what would be best way of protecting our gear? I know
 that the radios are pretty tight for keeping signals
 out and I have a very good ground system here. What
 else can be done to protect our gear.

 Thanks and 73,

 Bill N4ZI



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2]...Hot glue toroids to PCB???

2009-03-02 Thread Matt Palmer
If its that big of a deal to you there used to be a product called
'qdope' that was made for this purpose. With some frequencies various
other things can cause havok, though i would believe in LF projects
the effect is negligible.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Mon, Mar 2, 2009 at 9:17 AM, Lee Buller k...@swbell.net wrote:

 Do not do this.  I use bees wax to secure one of my toroids down because I 
 felt it needed it.  Well, it is a mess to work with.  I abandoned the 
 practice and just used the wires to hold them in place.

 Lee - K0WA


 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
 don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't 
 find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  
 Is Common Sense divine?

 --- On Mon, 3/2/09, Mike-WE0H w...@yahoo.com wrote:
 From: Mike-WE0H w...@yahoo.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] [K2]...Hot glue toroids to PCB???
 To: Elecraft-List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, March 2, 2009, 1:43 AM

 Building my K2. Does anyone see any issues with using hot glue to glue
 the toroids down to the boards? I've never had issues gluing toroids
 down in my 600 meter projects. Inductance values have never changed from
 no glue to glued down. But with the K2, it just doesn't seem right to
 leave the toroids loose without gluing them to the boards. So what do
 you guys think, glue or no glue?

 Many thanks,
 Mike
 WE0H
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Re: [Elecraft] hot glue K2 toroids?

2009-03-02 Thread Matt Palmer
I doubt you use actual RTV but a RTV-like sealant. RTV contains acetic
acid and will eat/corrode electronics and is a no-no for mil hardware.
In mil spec hardware I doubt you are winding your own toroids. While
it was common practice to do your own air wound coil knifing, the CMMI
people have pretty much axed that practice as it makes it too easy to
loose the recipe and manufacturing costs are too high. Now everything
is bought with a ridiculous tolerance spec from coilcraft or its laser
trimmed. (just gave the manufacturing cost to someone else really, but
the big wigs never realize that)

Just wanted to give my 0.02 before some people got the idea to goto
the hardware store and grab RTV, make sure you know what they are
using as the solvent!

/also produces military hardware
Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Mon, Mar 2, 2009 at 3:14 PM, SidShusterman k...@comcast.net wrote:
 I currently work for a military radio manufacturer and we vibrate
 everything we make because lives depend on our products. In cases where
 vibration is an issue we use RTV to provide a cushion. I am not
 suggesting anything just stating a commercial fact.
 Step away from the hot glue gun.  It is for scrapbooking not radio
 manufacture.
 73,
 Sid


 Applying hot glue in tiny amounts takes a level of creativity and skill not
 found with most kit builders.
 Why risk it?
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 comprehensive list of toroids to wind?

2009-01-19 Thread Matt Palmer
why would you need such a list?


Matt
KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Mon, Jan 19, 2009 at 9:20 AM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Is there a list of all the toroids to wind for the K2? I know I could
 just thumb through the manual for the basic kit and figure it all out,
 but I thought I might ask if someone has this in a Word/PDF file or on
 the web somewhere.

 On a related note, is there a list of toroids to wind for the add-ons
 for the K2 as well (KAT2, etc.)?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] easy source of static dissipating work mat?

2008-12-12 Thread Matt Palmer
A ESD bag and a mat are 2 different animals, a ESD bag (silver)
creates a faraday shield around the object protecting it from esd
(think tinfoil) an esd mat is a relatively high Z conductor designed
to bleed off charge as to avoid arcing (think rub feet on carpet and
touch doornob.) there are also pink 'esd' bags that are not shelded
but are simply made of a plastic which will not generate static
electricity. A ESD bag is not a suitable replacement for a mat.


Matt
KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 10:29 AM, Jerry Flanders jefland...@comcast.net wrote:
 At 07:59 AM 12/12/2008, Don Nelson wrote:

 The K3 kit has two sub assemblies that come in large conducting plastic
 bags. I used these bags for an antistatic mat. I put these bags down on
 the
 work bench overlapping to provide a good conducting surface. If you want
 you
 can cut open two sides of each bag and fold open the bag to double the
 covered surface.

 Don

 I don't understand how that material is supposed to function, but I tested a
 piece of it (may have been from some other source) and found that it was not
 conductive, at least as far as my DVM could measure. I concluded that I
 could not trust it to drain off any static charge from a workpiece - wrong?

 Jerry W4UK
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Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Liberal Arts Major

2008-11-13 Thread Matt Palmer
You mean the S-meter reads in S units (6db) how unique. Also the damn
powerpole thing has been beat to death over numerous threads on this
reflector. Read those and pray no one gets out their soapbox again.


Matt
KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Thu, Nov 13, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Lee Buller wrote:

  Alsowhy is one person calling the S-Meter and the power connector
 junk that cannot be fixed?

 Maybe I should explain my point.
 S-meter, too coars since it can only show a 6 dB change.
 It´s been reported on this reflector that it was impossible
 to rectify/change that, i e to get better resolution more
 data points has to be produced by the radio.
 So bottom line, an S-meter that coarse IMO is junk, sorry
 but it´s my opinion.
 12V power connector, does not have a positive lock, i e can
 come loose if radio is moved. Again IMO this is junk.
 This probably could be fixed, i e modify it for another type
 connector.

 And yes the K3 has a few other issues also but as I did say
 before nothing in life is perfect, I still love my K3 and
 would not like to be without it.

 73 Jim SM2EKM


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[Elecraft] K2 ATU Finally Finished, THX ALL

2008-09-25 Thread Matt Palmer
To Don and everyone else who encouraged and helped me build my K2 I
would like to say thank you, after sitting in a box for about 8 months
due to a move at home, then a move at work, I officially moved into my
new lab today and got my mitts on a power meter, and finished the ATU
cal, now that I also have an antenna erected in my apartment, I hope
to meet some of you on the air in the near future. Thanks again to
everyone, I cant wait until I save enough money for my next one
(another K2 or possible K1).


Matt Palmer
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 UNBUILT KIT WANTED

2008-08-29 Thread Matt Palmer
I hear you can buy them at www.elecraft.com

cheers
Matt

On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 9:40 AM, Dan Boardman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Wonder if anyone has an unbuilt KX1 or any of it's accessory kits
 unbuilt they would like to sell? Please call Dan at 770-377-6000 or
 email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Safety

2008-07-26 Thread Matt Palmer
Knowing that you need 2000V or so before you feel it illustraits why
its important to take ESD precautions with sensitive parts, very
recently at work we had an LDMOS device that would be destroyed with
about 30V which means moving your hand in the air near it would cook
it, hence why the use of wriststraps, smocks and ionizers is key, most
electronics are not this sensitive however. (class 3 is 16KV)
Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] Assembly mat

2008-04-02 Thread Matt Palmer
I hate to add my 2 cents but as far as a humidifier, you want above 30
percent humidity, an air ionizer would be the next step up after that,
a lot of the larger RF transistors used in my workplace are especially
sensitive, and it is a requirement to run an ionizer to prevent gate
damage.


Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] Assembly mat

2008-04-02 Thread Matt Palmer
On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 5:38 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I'm not convinced - I thought ESD packaging is designed to conduct across
 its inner surface, therefore preventing the build up of static and charge on


depends on the type of ESD packaging, esd protected or esd resistant,
the pink plastic material will not develop a charge, while the shiny
bags or black foam are conductive protecting the device. there are
also the black plastic boxes which will not generate static.

Matt
Kd8dao
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Re: [Elecraft] Anyone know this info about switching supplies?

2007-11-06 Thread Matt Palmer
Since building switchers for the military is my profession these days
i would like to think i have some authority on the subject. Failures
can occur almost anywhere in a switcher and the most typical type
depends on the topology of the supply. Typically there is a pass
transistor on the input that will turn off power to the whole supply
(at least in my designs) if anything goes out of spec however i
would bet in cheap commercial supplies this is not always the case. My
most common failure in lab tests for me is the primary side
transistor, what happens depends on whether the transistor fails short
or open. If it fails open you typically have no voltage on the output
(again this is dependent on topology) but if it fails closed, you can
get runaway on the output in certain topologies. I would like to think
any 'smart' design has a pass transistor and enough bit and
supervision circuitry as to shut the supply down if something goes
wrong, Component failure in the feedback loop is going to be rare, as
these are typically passive components, either a resistive divider, a
sense winding on the transformer, these parts typically don't fail,
and if they do, they fail in spectacular fashion which usually gives
you a clue something is going wrong.


Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] KAT2 Null Bridge

2007-11-02 Thread Matt Palmer
I cant get the bridge null to 0V T1 looks right, and all the various
connectors are fine as far as continuity (less than an ohm) any ideas
what to goto next?

Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] KAT2 Bump

2007-11-01 Thread Matt Palmer
@don and the other guru's

KAT2 is built, however i cant get the 10pin connector to sit on p4 of
the control board, i dont want to force it, (right now i'm pushing
enough to flex the circuit board) is it supposed to sit flush or nott?


Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] Question: Over-voltage protection (OVP) for K2, K1

2007-10-29 Thread Matt Palmer
I'm using a linear tech LT4356CDE as shown in their application note
for Demo Circuit (DC) 1018A, to do the same thing, it ends up being
pretty compact. Some people may have issues getting the sense
resistors however.

Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] PC Boards

2007-10-26 Thread Matt Palmer
Is it possible to buy only bare boards from elecraft? I'm thinking
about a KIO2, but i already have all the parts in my junk box, and $90
is alot to spend for something i basically already have.

Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] KAT2 Query

2007-10-24 Thread Matt Palmer
Building the KAT2, i'm not getting some of the caps bent down very far
on the filter board, does anyone have any pictures of one built with
the newer style teardrop caps instead of npo discs, i'd like a visual
reference to compare to.


Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: News Article on Tin Whiskers Ruining Electronics

2007-10-19 Thread Matt Palmer
main problem with the article is both space programs and military are
exempt from being ROHS compliant, so why would lead free solder be in
a satellite?


Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] External speaker jack K2

2007-10-17 Thread Matt Palmer
Having some minor problems here, mainly the external speaker jack does
not fit the hole in the case, not even close.

Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] K2 snag again

2007-10-03 Thread Matt Palmer
@ don and the other guru's, as i was going over the final check on the
k2 RF board, i noticed d39 was not installed and hmm, i seem to have
an extra MV 209... how much trouble am i in?


Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 snag again

2007-10-03 Thread Matt Palmer
i was worried about it causing problems with alignments, do i need to
realign the filters then?

Matt KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] bifiliar winding issues

2007-10-03 Thread Matt Palmer
i seem to be having trouble winding the bifilar transformers t3 on the
k2 and on the KAT t1, i seem to keep coming up with a short some where
in both, any tips?



Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] smaller?

2007-09-20 Thread Matt Palmer
smaller is also better for RF, surface mount resistors and caps are
much more consistent to manufacture and better for RF due to almost
eliminated stray effects. Also with cheaper comes more accurate,
almost all surface mount resistors are  1% and they are cheaper than
the 5% ones.

Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] HexKey care tip

2007-09-19 Thread Matt Palmer
I hate to say it, but you would think if you spent that amount of
money on a key it wouldn't have a simple problem like that, you would
think they could pop for the extra buck or two and get better feet.


Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

2007-09-07 Thread Matt Palmer
It seems to me the old guys want things to get bigger, i want them
smaller, there is no reason with advances in technology and smaller
components that you cant fit a radio with the performance of the k2
(basic anyway) into an altoids tin, look at the AT-Sprint i think its
a great example of what can be done. If you want a better example i
spent the summer building and prototyping a power supply for military
radios, we shoved 350 watts with 9 outputs and red/black isolation
into a 3U conduction cooled compact pci card, which with the height
restriction that imposes i think was a pretty amazing feat. If i had
the free time to actually study the k2 and figure it out on the
level that don has it down, i wouldn't mind designing my own, but alas
i never have enough time to finish any of my dream projects, only to
start them and then to leave a bunch of parts and sketches in a box
somewhere.

Matt
KD8DAO

On 9/7/07, J F [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Matt,

 I would like to see a SM Elecraft kit as well. Some of
 the devices are pretty easy to work with, although
 even some of them may be too big these days.

 The AmQRP micro908 was my first SMD kit. I was worried
 about being able to work with the small devices. But
 after the first couple of components, it was actually
 fun and easy.

 Maybe not for everyone, but I don't think it is as
 hard to do as folks fear. Requires some new tools and
 a bit more patience, and GOOD magnifying visor/loop.

 Cheers,
 Julius
 n2wn

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[Elecraft] 2SC2166 Driver replacement?

2007-09-07 Thread Matt Palmer
Again I invoke the elecraft gods, i dont have a 2sc2166, mine is a
2sc5739, checking the data sheets these are the same except they have
lower voltage, current and power dissapation rating, is this a
documented replacement? I would have expected it to show up in errata
somewhere... Just want to make sure its still ok before i tag it down.


Matt KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] Optimized mic ?

2007-09-06 Thread Matt Palmer
I would rather see them expanding into a surface mount miniaturized
version of the k2 with improved performance for a k4.

Matt KD8DAO

On 9/6/07, Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I do wonder what Elecraft could come up with if
 size, weight, and power consumption were not an issue.
 It would likely be a rig I would really like, as there
 are plenty of small rigs out there.

 They don't need to go head to head with the major manufacturers
 if they don't want to, they can sell what they sell and how they
 want to sell it, and be as big or as little as they want.

 My guess is they want to sell zillions of K3's though, with all
 the jetting around to hamfests.

 If the K4 was twice the size of the K3, and had four times
 the knobs and buttons on it, and had the K3 performance, I bet they
 would sell even more of them then K3's, at a higher price.

 I don't see why Elecraft could not get very large in short order,
 as no one has the range and performance they do, kits, small rigs,
 top end performing rigs, medium size rigs, backpack rigs, antenna tuners,
 amplifiers, and with the K4, big deluxe rigs.

 I hope they will expand and bring out more products faster, while
 reducing the individual workload so they don't burn out.




 Brett
 N2DTS



  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Charles Harpole
  Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 11:50 AM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Optimized mic ?
 
  Much as I want to like the little company that could,
  Elecraft folks need to
  recognize that despite their existing rabidly pro customer
  base, they are
  now reaching another type of customer with the advanced K3.  This new
  customer will be much less forgiving than the folks of the
  QRP and toy rigs
  niche who are clearly predisposed to love anything Elecraft.
 
  Me, I am a new type customer, not interested in QRP (I'm too
  old), back
  packing (same), and tiny rigs (same agn).  I assemble to save
  money, not
  much for the fun.  I like operating, not tinkering.  I
  purchase based on
  outstanding specs, not other marketing ploys.
 
  Message then to Elecraft, provided free here altho a
  marketing consultant
  would cost plenty, is to wake up to their new added customer base and
  understand that forgiveness in
  timely notices of shipment
  advance manual availability
  clear specs on rig (that are stated in the same terms as good
  ole Sherwood
  and that do not have the  or the  mark)
  and clear info on the full range of products, such as the Heil K2
  mic/headphones,
  can be expected to be met with only a polite patience that
  can be exhausted
  soon.
 
  It is a new and exciting ...and challenging day for
  Elecraft.  They have
  entered the big leagues and clearly challenge ICOM and Yaesu
  (and ORION).
  Marketing info will need to measure up too.
 
  PS... keep my order for a K3 active, please.  73
 
  Charles Harpole,   HS0ZCW
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  _
  Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn
  great prizes!
  http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hot
  mailtextlink2
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...

2007-09-06 Thread Matt Palmer
I think we need to get with the times, i'm not saying a smaller box
for the k2, but i wouldnt mind seeing a surface mount version, which
would mean more space inside the box for user mods and tinkering, i
think with all the options installed everyone agrees the k2 is a tight
fit. And as much as everyone seems scared of smt, it seems to be the
same fear of toroids, there not that bad, theres nothing hard about
it, no magic spells to cast, it just takes a little practice, so the
sooner we get a kit radio we really really want, that requires us to
do a little surface mounting the sooner the ham community will  get
over itself


(this is the 20 year year olds perspective though)

Matt
KD8DAO

On 9/6/07, Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I  don't know if people want it smaller, or they push
 smaller stuff to the people, or if it's a young thing, or what.
 I do NOT want things smaller, my cell phone/camera is already so small
 its very hard to use, look at aftermarket car radios, the buttons and
 displays
 are so small you have to stop and put your glasses on to read/change
 anything,
 handhelds have gotten so small they cant fit enough buttons and have menus
 and multi function things that make them almost imposable to use
 or figure out.

 I got a VX-7r I hate, as you cant use it without the (thick)
 instruction book, you cant even hold it without things getting in the way,
 and it gets REAL hot.

 No thanks, I want things bigger.

 Now if I was back packing, I would like it to be small
 and light, for the rest of it, I want it big and easy to use.

 But maybe I am odd, my transmitters are 6 foot tall


 Brett
 N2DTS


  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of JT Croteau
  Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2007 12:07 PM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft rigs...
 
  People today seem to want everything to be smaller (except for their
  big screen TV's).  Everything is becoming smaller, not bigger.
 
  --
  JT Croteau, N1ESE - Manchester, NH
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[Elecraft] K2 C125 Manual page 69

2007-09-05 Thread Matt Palmer
On page 69 of the current manual it says c125 is a 22uF
electrolytic, all i have left is a 2.2uF is this something for errata?


Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] Addendum to my earlier question

2007-09-05 Thread Matt Palmer
seems i accidently put the 22u into c106, will swapping this out
affect anything major (ie will i have to redo any of the alignment
that has been done thusfar) did having this cap here hurt anything?
I'm trying to trace the schematic but cannot find this cap.

Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] KAT2 Question

2007-08-29 Thread Matt Palmer
At Don and others, when reading the manual it instructs you to install
R3, R4 and R5 but not to confuse R5 with R6, is R6 supposed to be
installed in this step as well, browsing through the manual i cannoth
find any other direction to install R6.

Thanks,

Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] Capacitor Question

2007-08-21 Thread Matt Palmer
probably just a little paranoia on my part but:

on the K2 c133 is listed in the manual as a 104 (.1) and states to
bend it down, however the 104's are short and the pad is too large for
this cap, is this still the correct capacitor.

Thanks
Matt
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] Next K2 Addon

2007-08-10 Thread Matt Palmer
I figured i would poll the peanut gallery, assuming in my next two
weeks where i have nothing better to do i can finish the K2 and get it
aligned quickly, I should have some extra pocket change, what is the
logical next step, auto-tuner or SSB board? (SSB will be used for psk
only)? All comments, advice and snide remarks are accepted and
appreciated!


Matt
KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering dangers

2007-08-01 Thread Matt Palmer
I use the kester pocket packs for soldering, (not kester solder
however) when it goes empty i simply rewind my spool on an
appropriately sized marker, and then refill the pack, I frequently
hold the plastic pack in my teeth whilst holding a component and a
iron.

Matt
KD8DAO

On 8/1/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 If my previous warning on this subject did not get thro, please advise 
 everyone you know not to hold solder in the mouth while soldering.  Leakage 
 current even from good quality isolated irons could cause your heart to 
 stop.

 I did it once and eventually picked myself up from the other side of the room 
 - a wreck for several hours.

 David
 G3UNA

 
  From: Jeremiah McCarthy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Date: 2007/08/01 Wed PM 02:43:36 BST
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Solder
 
  Good idea...I do the same using an empty sewing thread spool...Holding a 
  one pound spool of solder while soldering 17 relays can get very tiring on 
  an arthritic wrist...G
 
  Jerry, wa2dkg
 
  For some time, I have used a fly-tying bobbin as a solder dispenser. If 
  you don't know what that is, go to a fly-fishing shop or a well-equipped 
  sporting goods store. Be sure to check the I.D. of the tip to be sure it 
  will handle the solder you are using.
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 -
 Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
 Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam

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Re: [Elecraft] solder in kits, the sequel

2007-08-01 Thread Matt Palmer
In response to the solder comments i'd like to contribute my $0.02 :

IDM, As long as the solder is not on the prohibited list it doesn't
matter. There I said it, everyone proceed to gasp and freak out. I'm
still working on my K2 slowly, and have now used more than 6 different
kinds of solder ranging from kester, to radio shack, to multicore.
I've used various diameters from way to small to way to big. I don't
think it really matters, any solder that melts will produce a radio in
the end, you could spend a lifetime arguing about which is better and
perfecting your special solder formula, I would prefer to get a few
QSO's in instead. I will admit that a good solder is nice and
minimizes the effort and fuss, but even crappy radio shack solder
(from my testing it has been the worst so far) works though it
requires added cursing and a few rude gestures to make it cooperate.
Solder is solder despite what everyone likes to claim IMHO, and a
little practice and a decent soldering iron is worth more that
worrying about what brand/mix solder you are using. Just pick up the
soldering iron and get to work, your gonna make a mistake or two, your
going to need some practice, your going to need to let the smoke out
of a few things in the process. In the end, mental energy and effort
is better spent in actual building and use of the project than
freaking out because you don't have the magic bullet special solder.

Matt
KD8DAO

On 8/1/07, Leo Bricker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I am a fairly new ham. I'll probably be thought of poorly by some, based on
 prior readings here, however I managed to grow up not learning to solder or
 build kits or anything similar. I have virtually no tools for such
 activities either. Based on my readings here and elsewhere I find the
 Elecraft community for the most part a totally helpful and friendly
 community. I have deluded myself into thinking that even with two left
 thumbs I may be able to build a few of their small kits and have a useful
 piece of test equipment when finished.

 That said, because I realize how great a difference there can be in solder
 and the significant impact it can have on the finished project, I would
 gladly pay more for my kit to have the experts at Elecraft send me the
 optimum solder for my kit. I would also gladly and thankfully accept a list
 of tools with part numbers and sources that they have found best.

 I will never have the level of expertise they have so these things would be
 significant assets for myself and others at similar levels. I didn't hear
 any others suggesting they include such things without proper compensation
 and am not suggesting it either. I'm suggesting they offer an additional
 option box to check off to get things that not everyone has yet and may not
 know the best choices of.

 --
 Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like.
 --
 Leo Bricker
 73's K5LDB
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Re: [Elecraft] 21st century connectivity

2007-07-26 Thread Matt Palmer

I would take ruby over java but would like to mention one you missed,
tcl which is also very portable.

Matt
KD8DAO

On 7/26/07, Rob Lundahl [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Have you considered Java? Totally portable across systems.
Or even Ruby which is a 1 click install on windows and is free.
Ruby is also on Linux, Windows, and OS X plus BSD. Java has the
advantage that it is already installed on most systems. But Ruby is
easy to install and very productive to code in.

Both provide portability.

Rob
NV7F

--
Visit http://oceansblue.biz
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[Elecraft] OT: Parts Vendors

2007-07-26 Thread Matt Palmer

Has anyone bough parts from www.danssmallpartsandkits.net? Any
comments on the experience?


Matt KD8DAO
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Re: [Elecraft] dangerous software

2007-07-21 Thread Matt Palmer

Looks like phishing to me (bad grammar is key)

Matt
KD8DAO

On 7/21/07, John Palmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

My virus protection sends me the following message every to send an email.  Do 
you know anything about this?

*** PLEASE DO NOT REPLY TO THIS NOTIFICATION. ***

Trend Micro PC-calling Internet Security has detected a message containing 
dangerous software. You will find the message in question attached to this 
notification in the form of a harmless text file.

If you need to read the original message, please open only the text file, not the original. As a 
further precaution, do NOT save the original message as a message file (files with the 
.msg or .oft suffix at the end) to keep your computer safe from infection.

Thank you
John
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[Elecraft] K2 Build Pictures

2007-07-17 Thread Matt Palmer

for anyone who is interested playing with the new digicam while
building my k2, i'll upload new photos as i take them.


http://picasaweb.google.com/KD8DAO/K2Build


Matt

KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] Started building my K2 have a few ?

2007-07-16 Thread Matt Palmer

Almost complete with the control board and had a couple questions for the
peanut gallery. There are pads on the board for a C44, however this cap does
not appear in the inventory, and is not mentioned in the manual, I assume it
is for an additional module but we know what happens when you assume things.
Also does anyone know the gold plating thickness on the right angle
connectors? I am generally unhappy with the wetting I am getting on several
pins and am concerned about these solder joints breaking somewhere in the
future, has anyone else had this problem (Before I get the canned responses
I am using a Metcal RF soldering iron with a 037 tip and am building the
board in compliance with JSTD 001D Class 3)


Thanks a bunch.

Matt Palmer
KD8DAO
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[Elecraft] RE: Started building my K2 have a few ?

2007-07-16 Thread Matt Palmer

A metcal 037 tip is 700 deg F. I'm using some kester 60/40 solder I had
laying about(pocketpak), not sure of actual part number. In regards to my
plating question, from a commercial production standpoint, if gold plating
is too thick on a part, it tends to cause cracking in a solder joint in
later life. Under JSTD001 gold platings above a certain thickness are
supposed to be filed/sanded down to alleviate this problem. Usually at least
in my place of business we do not know of problems with plating until it is
too late. I was just curious if there were any other  'crafters out there
that have had issues with the gold plated connectors, if not I don't plan on
worrying about it, I have not had the opportunity to look at the joints
under a scope, however just the fact that capillary action failed to pull
solder thru the vias and wet the top of the board gave me a bad initial
feeling
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