[Elecraft] KPA100 high current draw

2007-08-25 Thread Soaring Eagles

Folks,

My K2/100 has been working fine for over 6 months. Today I turned it on and 
I get a high current draw anytime the KPA100 is inline. Setting power <10 
works fine. I haven't even moved the radio since it last worked, so I'm not 
sure how to go about troubleshooting.


Thanks for any help!

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517

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[Elecraft] T-shirt

2007-04-30 Thread Soaring Eagles

K3 -- Can I hear you now?

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
K3 #

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[Elecraft] Possibly broken K2 (update)

2007-04-29 Thread Soaring Eagles

False alarm!!!

The K2 is fine, just the operator's brain and a fuse are having difficulty. 
I failed to realize that the power cables from my Rig Runner that powered 
the K2 were from the 5 amp connector. It was fine for the basic K2, but 
certainly didn't want to perform when the amplifier added to the K2.


So, after that little scare, everything is just fine. The whole K2 
experience has been amazing. #5757 is not complete with DSP, all HF bands, 
and SSB along with the KPA100. Everything went together and worked just as 
advertised and I'll be happy to tell anyone at Hamvention the same thing!


73,

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517


**

Hi!

I just finished the KPA100. All the tests were great. Final assembly was 
fine. I hooked it up to my antenna through my SGC MAC-200. Hit the tune 
button, the tuner started doing it's thing, and then the radio just up and 
died. The basic K2 with SSB, DSP, 60 and 160 mtr options had been working 
fine up to this point.


I tried to use the barrel connector for power, but get nothing there 
either. I do get a slight pop from the speaker when the power is connected 
to the power pole connectors when I switch the radio on, but nothing else 
comes on. No lights, sounds, etc.


I will pull the PA cover off in the morning and see if going with the QRP 
cover will make a difference and also check for things that don't look 
right. However, I didn't see or smell any smoke.


Thanks for any help

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757

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[Elecraft] Possibly broken K2

2007-04-28 Thread Soaring Eagles

Hi!

I just finished the KPA100. All the tests were great. Final assembly was 
fine. I hooked it up to my antenna through my SGC MAC-200. Hit the tune 
button, the tuner started doing it's thing, and then the radio just up and 
died. The basic K2 with SSB, DSP, 60 and 160 mtr options had been working 
fine up to this point.


I tried to use the barrel connector for power, but get nothing there 
either. I do get a slight pop from the speaker when the power is connected 
to the power pole connectors when I switch the radio on, but nothing else 
comes on. No lights, sounds, etc.


I will pull the PA cover off in the morning and see if going with the QRP 
cover will make a difference and also check for things that don't look 
right. However, I didn't see or smell any smoke.


Thanks for any help

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757

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[Elecraft] KPA 100 L15

2007-03-25 Thread Soaring Eagles
OK, now I'm confused. I'm currently building the KPA 100. I've just 
finished soldering the finals. I currently have a blank space at L15. I 
checked the schematics in my manual (Rev D, 9/25/06) and it shows that L15 
is not used. I also don't have any toroids left, and I wrote in all the 
errata that came with the box when I got it (Jan, 2007).


Am I missing something? (namely a toroid). or an errata? I just checked 
Elecraft's web site and looked at the schematic for Rev E (I know I don't 
have it, but for comparison purposes) and it shows that L15 is not used.


Thanks for any help. Just wanted to clear up my confusion before I got too far.

Thanks!

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517


...First question is - do you have a red or a blue toroid core at the L15
location?  If it is red, you should have the Rev C manual and you will
have a voltage at the cathode of D13 with no power connected to the KPA100.

OTOH, if you have a blue toroid core at L15, you should have the Rev D
manual (be certain to download the latest errata sheet from the Elecraft
website).  If this is your KPA100 level, then you will not measure any
voltage on D13 unless the KPA100 power is connected.


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[Elecraft] KPA100 relay K3 mistake

2007-02-15 Thread Soaring Eagles

OK,

I was so excited that I put in K3. The resistance checks all come out ok 
(except that I get 357 ohm for K4 instead of the 600 to 800 ohm range, 
which should be right with K3 installed). Is it ok to proceed with 
connecting it for the first tests with my K2? Or should I remove K3 and get 
another to put in later? I did look ahead and see the reasoning for not 
installing K3 yet, but if it's just for ease of installing the transformer 
and winding, I think I can working around that small space.


Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Rev D-4

2007-02-08 Thread Soaring Eagles
I'm just starting my KPA100. R28 is supposed to be a 200 ohm 1W resistor, 
but the errata states that if the resistor doesn't have color codes (mine 
doesn't) then the markings would be 102J. However, I'm thinking that a 200 
ohm resistor would be marked 201J (of which I have 2 and my inventory came 
out right). Just want to confirm that this is the correct resistor.


Thanks for the help.

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517

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RE: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic with K2

2007-02-07 Thread Soaring Eagles

Thanks again Don. The resistor and Icom pinout seems to be working fine.

BTW, I have tried to talk with Heil, but my emails have gone unanswered and 
thought maybe someone else on the list had already done this. Since that 
doesn't seem to be the case, I've now done it successfully and maybe can 
help someone else if this question comes up again. This list is 
invaluable...great, accurate technical knowledge at the level desired!


73,

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517


At 03:26 PM 2/6/2007, you wrote:

Jim,

Since you are asking about the internal makings and workings of the Heil
mic, you may get a better answer from Heil.  The real answer has many
considerations, see below:

What I know of it, the Proset-iC from Heil uses an electret element - and
that alone says there is a preamp inside (it is a part of every electret
element).  So, yes, the element needs a voltage.  In many mics, that
requires a resistor from the 5 (or 8) volt supply to the AF line of the mic
element, but there are others that require the 5 volts be applied to a
separate wire at the mic jack - this is the scheme used in the Ten-Tec
electret mics.

I do know the Heil Proset-iC works with a resistor from +5 volts to the AF
pin (mic jack pin 2 to pin 1), but for the specifics, you need to ask the
mic manufacturer about the construction of the mic that you are using, and
in the case of Heil mics used with adapters, that information should include
both the mic wiring and  the adapter wiring combined - there are several
possibilities and valid combinations - only the mic manufacturer has the
correct answers.

Yes, I realize that most questions of this nature directed to the accessory
manufacturer yield only 'how to hook it up' info' baed on th estandard
wiring for a specific transceiver, but that leaves the user with a
non-conventional application (such as connecting the mic to a soundcard
interface) with a lot of remaining questions about what mic lines should be
powered and from what point = such an interface box places just another item
to be considered in the overall 'correct wiring' scheme.  I believe
definition of what signal is on each wire should be included with every
microphone or any other piece of equipment.

73,
Don W3FPR




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[Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic with K2

2007-02-06 Thread Soaring Eagles

One more quick question:

I've got the Heil ProSet-Ic with the Icom (blue) adapter from Heil. 
However, I'm not sure if I need to connect the K2 mic connector pin 2 to 
the 5V line. In other words, I'm still confused whether this 
microphone/headset has the preamp in the mike or not.


Thanks a lot for your help. Otherwise, I think that's the last question I 
should have about the KSB2 and the K60XV is ready to put in, but I think 
I've got that covered! #5757 is getting nearly fully populated!




At 02:12 PM 2/5/2007, you wrote:

Jim,

All Heil Prosets are not created equal, you must be specific about the type,
but I will assume your subject line indicating the ProSet-iC is the one you
have purchased.  If that is so, and you purchased the Icom adapter from
Heil, then you simply wire your K2 mic configuration header for the Icom
pinout and attach a resistor (5600 ohms is good) from the AF pin to the 5
volt pin on the mic jack - the best location for the resistor is on the back
of the mic jack, not the header just because it is easier mechanically.  If
indeed your adapter is Icom, the resistor goes between pins 1 and 2 on the
mic jack.

73,
Don W3FPR




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RE: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic with K2

2007-02-05 Thread Soaring Eagles

Don,

You are an absolute fountain of information! Yes, I have the Icom adapter 
from Heil and the set works perfectly on my 746.


I suppose another way to approach this is to get the Kenwood adapter from 
Heil, making the K2 mic configuration easier and maybe more standard. I'll 
have to ponder that for a little bit.


Thanks a lot for your help..hopefully #5757 will be on SSB in a couple 
of more days.


72,
Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517



At 02:12 PM 2/5/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jim,

All Heil Prosets are not created equal, you must be specific about the type,
but I will assume your subject line indicating the ProSet-iC is the one you
have purchased.  If that is so, and you purchased the Icom adapter from
Heil, then you simply wire your K2 mic configuration header for the Icom
pinout and attach a resistor (5600 ohms is good) from the AF pin to the 5
volt pin on the mic jack - the best location for the resistor is on the back
of the mic jack, not the header just because it is easier mechanically.  If
indeed your adapter is Icom, the resistor goes between pins 1 and 2 on the
mic jack.

73,
Don W3FPR




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[Elecraft] Heil Proset Ic with K2

2007-02-05 Thread Soaring Eagles

Hi!

I'm getting ready to install my KSB2 in #5757. I'm pretty sure that the 
Heil Proset will work with the standard Icom jumpers, but I'm not sure 
what, if any, resistor I'll need. Anyone have experience with this 
combination that can give me some hints?


Thanks a lot!!!

Jim, WD9HBC
K2 #5757
KX1 #1517

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[Elecraft] Microphones for K2

2006-12-08 Thread Soaring Eagles

Hi!

I'm currently finishing up K2 #5757 and plan to add SSB in the near future. 
I currently have an Icom 746 and the Heil Pro-set Ic. I'm wondering if I'll 
be able to use that headset with the K2? From what I've read, it sounds 
like the right choice as the mike output is higher for both the Icom and 
K2, but thought I'd ask to make sure.


Also, I have an old D-104 that I used to use with my Heath HX-10 (no, I 
didn't build it, but it's as old as I am, was my first xmtr, and I just 
can't bring myself to sell it ). Is it difficult to make this mike 
work with the K2?


Thanks for any help!

Jim, WD9HBC
KX1 #1517
K2 #5757

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[Elecraft] Microphones for K2

2006-12-05 Thread Soaring Eagles

Hi!

I'm currently finishing up K2 #5757 and plan to add SSB in the near future. 
I currently have an Icom 746 and the Heil Pro-set Ic. I'm wondering if I'll 
be able to use that headset with the K2? From what I've read, it sounds 
like the right choice as the mike output is higher for both the Icom and 
K2, but thought I'd ask to make sure.


Also, I have an old D-104 that I used to use with my Heath HX-10 (no, I 
didn't build it, but it's as old as I am, was my first xmtr, and I just 
can't bring myself to sell it ). Is it difficult to make this mike 
work with the K2?


Thanks for any help!

Jim, WD9HBC
KX1 #1517
K2 #5757


***
While at Pacificon this fall I purchased a Heil Handi-Mic for my K2 #0261.
I've read this list for a long time now and know about the K2's need for a
mic with higher-than-normal output.  Researching the Handi-Mic on-line I
expected the model HM-iC (for Icom) would be the right choice.  So before
making the purchase I went to the Elecraft booth and asked THE MAN, Eric
Schwartz, and he said that's the one to get.  Well, I haven't found out for
sure yet because I still need to build my KSB2 but I have no doubt that I
got the right info from the right man.  Don's response (below) seems to
agree.

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[Elecraft] K2 assembly question

2006-11-13 Thread Soaring Eagles

Actually 2 questions:

1. I made the first power up and everything went just like the manual. 
However, the preamp is marked on. The manual doesn't say which way it 
should be and I thought I'd check before I got too much farther.


2. I'm confused about soldering the RF probe. I can't seem to find a good 
way to position and solder the RG174 cable ends to the banana plugs. 
There's just a slight dimple at the end of the plugs and I can't figure a 
good mechanical way to connect them before soldering.


Thanks for any help!

K2 #5757 (in build process)
KX1 #1517 (4 bander)

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[Elecraft] NAQCC Bear schedule

2006-10-24 Thread Soaring Eagles

Folks,

Here's the bear schedule for this week. It's cold up here, but not 
hibernation time yet. Working the paddles keeps my paws warm!


For last minute changes, go to the NAQCC web site: 
http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/




Bear #08b 10/23 through 10/29 - Massachusetts - WD9HBC (Jim)

10/23 - 1100-1130 3.560
  - 1130-1200 7.030
  - 1200-1230 10.116

10/24 - 0200-0230 10.116
  - 0230-0300 7.030
  - 1100-1130 3.560
  - 1130-1200 7.030
  - 1200-1230 10.116
  - 1600-1630 14.060
  - 2000-2030 14.060
  - 2300-2330 7.060

10/25 - 0130-0145 10.116
  - 0145-0215 7.040 or 7.060
  - 0215-0230 3.560

10/26 - 0130-0145 10.116
  - 0145-0215 7.040 or 7.060
  - 0215-0230 3.560
  - 1900-1930 14.060
  - 2100-2130 14.060
  - 2300-2330 7.040 or 7.060

10/27 - 1300-1330 7.040 or 7.060
  - 1330-1400 10.116
  - 2100-2130 14.060
  - 2300-2330 10.116
  - 2330-2400 7.040 or 7.060

10/28 - 1200-1230 3.560
  - 1230-1300 7.040 or 7.060
  - 1300-1330 10.116
  - 2000-2030 14.060
  - 2300-2330 14.060
  - 2330-2400 10.116

10/29 - -0030 7.040 or 7.060
  - 0030-0100 3.560
  - 1200-1230 3.560
  - 1230-1300 7.040 or 7.060
  - 1300-1330 10.116
  - 1500-1530 14.060
  - 1700-1730 14.060
  - 1900-1930 14.060

QSL Methods:
Regular mail (no SASE or stamps required):
Click here for the mail address
FISTS may use FISTS buro
DX may use DX buro

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[Elecraft] KXB3080

2006-08-30 Thread Soaring Eagles
I'm thinking that if I can build it, anyone can. My last real radio 
building before the KX1 was a Heath HR-1680 receiver that I build in high 
school. For twenty years I was an appliance operator. I had built a TenTec 
regen receiver for fun to see if "I could still do it" and it works fine. 
After a couple of other small kits (keyers and a wattmeter) I decided I 
wanted a KX1. I built it and it worked right the first time. I then built 
up the KXB3080. After a little troubleshooting help from Don (I'll thank 
him again) KX1 s/n 1519 is up and running just great.


If the KXB3080 is the toughest kit that Elecraft produces, then I'm really 
looking forward to working on a K2 (trying to get the XYL to buy off that I 
"need" another radio). THAT part is prolly the most difficult part for me ;)


Jim Ujcik, WD9HBC

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RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 problem

2006-08-16 Thread Soaring Eagles

OK, I really appreciate your quick response!

I forgot to mention that the 20B cap does have a peak (not too much, but 
about the same as before, but there's no peak on 20A or 40. Also can't hear 
a peak on 30A or 30B.


'D' and '5" are correct
The trace is cut (I thought I might not have done it, so I did it again. ;) 
But, if I check do a continuity check on both sides of the old trace, I get 
a short. I have not taken the time to check this against the schematic, but 
I did check it.


T2 is wound correctly and installed properly and it does look like the 
photos. I followed the directions for stripping the toroids, so I'm not 
sure exactly what you mean here. What unstripped lead length would be a bad 
thing? If you're thinking that one of the leads is shorting somewhere it 
shouldn't, it doesn't appear to visually.


Yes, the 'A' and 'B' wires are correct (quadruple checked).

I did check transmit into a dummy load and here's what I get on my OHR WM-2
80 meters: 2 watts
40 meters: 3.5 watts
30 meters: 5.0 watts
20 meters: 3.2 watts

battery voltage shows 14.1 volts

Interestingly, the same setup showed 5 watts out on both 40 and 20 prior to 
the KXB3080 installation.


And, as I was typing this, I decided to hook back up the antenna and see 
what I heard. Well, signals were booming in on 80. Went to each band in 
turn and was able to successfully peak the 40, 30, and 20 meter filters.


So, what did I do? Don't really know. Other than going over everything 
about 10 times (no kidding) and scraping gently at 2 solder points that may 
(emphasize may) have been shorting. They didn't really look like they were, 
but there was some flux and it was shiny in the light, so I scraped a 
little between them. Don't even remember which ones they were. But, they 
were in the L6 and R1 part of the KX1 board and prolly one of the 
resoldered parts or very close to one.


I'll complete the reassembly. I planned on taking this on a trip to TX this 
week and was sweating not having it done in time. Hopefully I won't undo 
what I did do.


Thanks to everyone for putting up with the bandwidth!

Many thanks and 72 to Don. At least having some plan of action kept me 
going when I might have just given up til I got back from my trip!


Jim, WD9HBC



At 05:00 PM 8/16/2006, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jim,

One thing that will cause that problem is if the 'D' and '5' wires are
interchanged - they should cross over each other (guess how I discovered
that )

Did you make the PC trace cut on the KX1 board?
Is T2 wound correctly and installed properly? - it should look like the
photos.  Were the toroid leads properly stripped?  The unstripped lead
length is rather critical in the KXB3080, but the proper lengths are
indicated in the manual.
Did you place the 'A' and 'B' wires as indicated in the manual? - they are
mixed on the KXB3080 board, so the wire marked A on the KXB3080 goes to the
B position on the KX1 board, etc.

Have you checked transmmit yet?  If you get proper RF output, you can be
reasonably certain that the Low Pass Filter is OK, but if you find no or low
power on transmit, look at the Low Pass Filter for the problem.  The LPF
(and the DDS) are the only components shared by both the receiver and the
transmitter.

73,
Don W3FPR





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[Elecraft] KXB3080 problem

2006-08-16 Thread Soaring Eagles

Hi Folks!

I build KX1 sn/1519 and it worked great! I finished building up the KXB3080 
and installed it last night. All the tests were fine as I went along in the 
build. However, when I try to peak the receiver, I'm not getting any 
signals. I don't have an XG1 or 2, although I might need one!  Also, 
it doesn't make any difference where I set the RF Gain control, and I'm 
thinking that's significant. I've looked for the obvious shorts and 
incorrectly installed parts but can't find any.


I'd appreciate any help. I usually get just the digest, so if you want to 
respond direct, please do so.


Thanks a lot!!!

Jim Ujcik, WD9HBC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] New KX1 with KXB3080

2006-06-04 Thread Soaring Eagles
I apologize if this has been covered, but I didn't see it when I searched 
the archives.


I received the kit for KX1 sn1519 just this week along with the KXB3080 
board. Since there are a few changes to the KX1 board, I'm wondering if I 
can do them as I build the basic KX1. I'm not sure how they affect the 
basic operation without the KXB3080 board installed. I guess I'm just 
looking to see if I can avoid having to change components that I just 
installed.


If it's really better to build the basic KX1 then make the changes later, 
that's fine, but I had to ask.


Thanks!

Jim Ujcik, WD9HBC

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