RE: [Elecraft] [K1] Keying an external amplifier with the K1
Don, Many thanks for that helpful information. I will try and report back in due time. All the best, Wyn, VR2AX -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 8:41 PM To: Wyn Hughes Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Keying an external amplifier with the K1 Wyn, There is no kit or PC board specific to the K1, but the same amp keying circuit used for the K2 should work if the K1 6R signal is used as input in place of the 8R signal used in the K2. Where you pick up the required voltage and ground inside the K1 and how you mount it is an exercise I will leave to the builder - but electrically, the circuit should work fine. I cannot comment on the relative timing of the presence of the 6R signal to the onset of RF, but I imagine it is adequate to handle all but the slower relays in an amplifier. Why don't you try it and report your implementation. 73,, Don W3FPR Wyn Hughes wrote: > > Hello group, > > > > Does anybody know whether the K1 can be modified to provide a keying > output, to key a small external amplifier (similar to the available > mod for the K2)? > > > > 73, > > Wyn, VR2AX > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] [K1] Keying an external amplifier with the K1
Hello group, Does anybody know whether the K1 can be modified to provide a keying output, to key a small external amplifier (similar to the available mod for the K2)? 73, Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?
Thanks, Johnny, Eric, Don, Brian and others who responded. Part of the K2's success must be attributable to how well the company and community have adapted to changes since the K2 was first produced. No doubt the foreseeable future will bring even more changes. Speaking for myself, the K2 and K2/100 have some distinct attractions. Some of those reflect my aversion to the 'risk' of shipping 30-34kg radios to/from Japan for care and attention, when something goes wrong! Best 73 Wyn, VR2AX K2 is the cash cow of Elecraft and provides the milk for the business. Through years, all the R&D and sunk costs have been more or less recovered. Unless, there is a big change in demand, I think Elecraft will still manufacture and support it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?
Hi There, What I am wondering, is (are) the K2 and K2/100 a 'dead radio(s)'? Over, say 8 - x years. 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Elecraft Amp(s) - with bare K2?
A power gain of x40 is very high for a mass produced RF ham amplifier (about 17db). I believe an FCC rule limits it to 15 or 16db for US marketability, due to CB issues in part. Many non-US amateur amp developers work around this by using power swamping resistors in the input circuits, of the US market amps they make, to comply with the FCC requirements. Just take a look at what the Italian amp maker Expert has had to do with its new solid state 1Kamp, just to get it approved by the FCC (60 watts inputfor the US version, 20 watts for the rest). The limiting factor is the need for neutrlisation in a high gain RF amp. Something to stay well away from, and at 17db you're pushing the envelope quite close. Just take a look at the 'export' versions of the QRO and Command amps - x35 power gain - and that's just for the overseas market. A higher gain amp can be built and made to work without neutralisation, but may be difficult to reproduce for mass use. Happiness is around 13db or x20 in my view. 73, Wyn VR2AX So you put 10 watts in and get ~400 watts out! You put in 50 watts and get 2000 watts out Where's the rub? de Joe, aa4nn -- - SNIP - My barefoot K2 can drive both my ICPW-1 and Quadra System to 350-400 watts. Therefore, the forthcoming KPA800 / 1500 should have similar amplification gain. If the proposed KPA800 / 1500 can only work with K2/100 and with less gain, I regret to say that the marketability of the amplifiers will be adversely affected. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] How Much Bench Real Estate is Required to Construct a K2?
Does anyone have a smaller bench? Search against 'vr2ax' in qrz.com (recently updated entry) It is actually a real photo and my idea of 'multi-tasing. ' I had built and tested the control and front boards when the photo was taken, was wondering where to fit the larger mainboard. 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 IMD Distortion Figures
Thanks, Larry, those figures are in themselves impressive. Of course, a lot depends on the mesurement equipment and conditions. Worth adding perhaps to the Elecraft resource list.. My L-4's -33db compared to single tone (-39db cf. pep), would in that case be the limiting factor. Maybe a good excuse for a new rig. 73 Wyn, VR2AX - Original Message - From: "Larry Phipps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Wyn Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 IMD Distortion Figures > Take a look at the tests run by Jack, K8ZOA, using his Z90 Panadapter > kit at cliftonlaboratories.com Click on the IMD Measurements link. He > shows the test methodology, and results from several rigs, including his > K2/100. > > 73, > Larry N8LP > > > > Wyn Hughes wrote: > > Hello Group, > > > > Has anyone measured, or have any information, regarding the 3rd/5th order IMD performance of the barebones KPA100, based on a two-tone test? > > > > I have some figures for the base K2, courtesy of the ARRL review. I might even have seen figures for the K2/100, but can't seem to locate them at present. If anyone can also supply these figures, I would be grateful. > > > > > > 73 > > Wyn, V2AX > > > > ___ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 IMD Distortion Figures
Hello Group, Has anyone measured, or have any information, regarding the 3rd/5th order IMD performance of the barebones KPA100, based on a two-tone test? I have some figures for the base K2, courtesy of the ARRL review. I might even have seen figures for the K2/100, but can't seem to locate them at present. If anyone can also supply these figures, I would be grateful. 73 Wyn, V2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 smoke test
Dennis, I did that too (worked Sierra Hotel One Tango) with a ETO/Alpha 91B, some years ago. Boy, did I say some sharp words! Alpha support got me back on line, just a couple of fried diodes on the control board. With the K2's minutarisation, some extra ICs might be gone, but it can all be fixed. Never even had to ship the hulk back to CO, thank goodness. I am sure that Elecraft will get you back in action with much less angst. Cheers and good luck with the reworking.73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re:[Elecraft] K2 #5945 birthday, and a question
Jeff, You'll receive very expert advice on posible causes, internal to the K2, that may indicate to you a possible slightly low output on 10 metres (and 24Mhz). This is a narrow perspective response, based on limited K2 experience (I built just the one), but some experience with amps. 1. Double check your input voltage to the K2 under full TX current draw, about 3 amps at full power. I used a DC lead that was too resistive first time around, lost a few volts in the process, 13.8V can reduce to 11.? at the rig easily. It is surprising how easy it is to lose volts at 3A current draw. I found that with a thicker DC cable, I could increase the DC supply voltage to give 14V as measured on the K2. That gave really pleasing power output on 10 metres. 2. Be circumspect about your indicated power output, especially if it is based on what the K2 power meter is telling you. That may be misleading, but not because of the K2 design itself. Using my Bird 43, I detected differences between the Bird reading and the K2 "firmware generated" reading. The differences were enhanced when I used different coax connecting leads to the dummy load. Probably dodgy patch leads, or at least slightly out of tolerance ones. Eventually, I connected the dummy load direct to the BNC connector, via an adaptor. Lo and behold, the power reading of the K2 changed and matched the reading on the Bird exactly. I won't try to explain this. 3. As a general rule, never build an amp until you are totally happy with your exciter. Otherwise you make any problems bigger. Best 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 (and other) Reviews Needed for eHam
A little marketing is good and well deserved for the Elecraft line up in general, but I do wonder who with any average intelligence would rely on a purely personal or subjective view. Marketing execs tell us that people do listen to this kind of stuff, but do we? Is this stuff worth powder and shot? Anyhow, like Drake gear, all Elecraft stuff is by definition "great", so who are we to argue or cause dissention among the foot soldiers or centurions? Best for the Lunar New Year to all Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 and TL922?
I sold mine several years ago BNIB, the relay is VERY heavy duty. May be 12V or 24V, current draw high. Check the relay socket voltage and current on your DVM, open and close circuit respectively. Use a buffer or an external switch - I sometimes use a Heil FS2 footswitch to key an older amp, in the slow sense of 'key'. Has anyone used their K2/100 to key a TL922? Do I need an external 12V relay? Thanks, Chris KL9A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] HF Amplifier
Jean-Francois The main thing to remember about any amplifier, is that it will amplify your IMD and other unwanted signals spurii and harmonics, just like the rest. The K2 is IMHO a great QRP radio with a par excelence receiver. Beyond that, there is a law of diminishing return and no free lunches. The good, the bad and the ugly, fact of life. Unfortunately! Cheers, Wyn VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Number K6
Pure fluke. The numeral "8" is considered lucky by some in older Chinese culture, much of which still exists here. Conversely, "4" is not so good, many buildings here have all floors ending in "-4" omitted, in the floor numbering system. Co-incidentally, my phone extension ends in "68" as is my (GW) house number - but my birthday is on the 13th, again less than auspicious! My best ever Hong Kong QTH was on the 13th floor, worked lots of serious 160 dx with a top fed 1/4 wave vertical, but my xyl wanted to move to a lower apartment. Hence my need for a K2 and /P. Cheers, Wyn, VR2AX - Original Message - From: "KJ3D" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Wyn Hughes'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 10:26 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Number K6 > OK, I'll bite. What's special about 6008 or 6068? (And I already KNOW I'm > gonna be sorry for askin'). > > I did notice your post was at 6:08 today. > > 6073, > > Tom, KJ3D > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wyn Hughes > Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 6:08 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Number K6 > > Twice as many IC-781s as were built. I'm up for 6008 or 6068 if Elecrat > decide to sell 'cherished numbers', and 6888 could be quite a good > investment. > > 73, VR2AX > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Number K6
Twice as many IC-781s as were built. I'm up for 6008 or 6068 if Elecrat decide to sell 'cherished numbers', and 6888 could be quite a good investment. 73, VR2AX Hi everybody! I wonder who will get K2 number 6000? Can you guys believe this? Almost 6000 K2s out in the field making a whole lot of folks all over the world very happy. I glad to be a part of this. Best regards, Bob K7HBG K2 [2836] and proud of it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks
A few months ago, after completing #5390, I ran a check on the cleanliness of the K2 transmitted CW signal on 28Mhz, using the spectrum scope in my IC-781 as a spectrum analyser. I could not detect any trace of spurii and the slopes of the received trace were sharp and smooth, with the scope set to 5Khz per division. Signal also sounded clean and pure to listen to. I had to set up a high degree of 'attenuation' between the K2/dummy load and the IC-781 (with a wire antenna about 1 ft long), which I did by having the K2 running dits into the dummy load in one room of our apartment, and the IC-781 in another room some distance away. If you try this, take care to arrange enough proper attenuation, to avoid the risk of blowing the RF stage or switching diodes in your RX! 73 and Happy Holidays to all, Wyn, VR2AX In a message dated 25/12/06 10:53:49 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 1. when looking at the transmitted signal using a spectrum analyser, the signal didn't seem as clean as we liked it. We didn't have time (it was the day before X-mas!) to really start counting the dB's, but on 30, 12 and 10 m we saw some signals around the main signal. Is there any chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by further tweaking the filters? - Hi Jurgen, Are you 100% sure that the spurii you are seeing are just not due to you overloading the input of the spectrum analyser? This is a common cause of apparent excessive spurii! Merry Christmas to all, Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity
Mike and Don, Thanks for your input. I suspect that ESD damage occurs more often than one realises. Don's report confirms. I read reports that quite a few of the NATO IC-781s went down in the last gulf conflict for no apparent reason, other than microprocessor failure suspected due to the extreme low humidity. I have experienced some strange and otherwise wholly inexplicable PC failures due to early working without a wrist strap in the past. For safety sake I will stick with the new mat amd its combined wrist strap. Then at least I will eliminate one possibility from my shopping list of problem causes. Best 73 Wyn, VR2AX - Original Message - From: "Mike Harris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Wyn Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 5:42 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity > G'day, > > > Today in Hong Kong we have relative humidity (RH) of 55% (temp a > 'freezing' 16 C), compared to our norm of 90 - 100% RH and temp 30 C+ > > > I assume the 16C was outside not inside. > > These past two days my daughter and xyl have mentioned several 'static > shocks' when they play with our cats, all 6 of them. > > I remember my school kid days of cats tail static generators, but there's > a serious question behind this. Under what conditions of RH do most > builders of Elecraft rigs operate? > > > RH in the house is of the order 40-60% temp 20-22C most of the time. No > cats, no ESD countermeasures besides touching an earthed object before > picking up sensitive devices. Not killed one yet. > > Regards, > > Mike VP8NO > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ESD Risk vs Relative Humidity
What is considered a 'normal' ESD safety limit? Today in Hong Kong we have relative humidity (RH) of 55% (temp a 'freezing' 16 C), compared to our norm of 90 - 100% RH and temp 30 C+ These past two days my daughter and xyl have mentioned several 'static shocks' when they play with our cats, all 6 of them. I remember my school kid days of cats tail static generators, but there's a serious question behind this. Under what conditions of RH do most builders of Elecraft rigs operate? My K2 and XV144 were constructed in spring/summer (90%+H) and autumn (70% RH+) with no apparent probs. Cats kept well away. I used a ESD earthed triple layer safety mat for the XV144. 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV144
I recently completed construction and alignment and test of the XV144. I encountered no real problems with the build. I've had it running with my IC-781 as an IF for a couple of weeks. I have a couple of questions and some comments: (a) While installing the RF module and the heat spreader, on the bottom cover, using the procedure described on page 48 of the assembly manual, I noticed that by holding up the finished bottom cover assembly close up to a bright light, a very very thin sliver of light could be seen creeping through between the heat spreader and the lower thermal conduction pad and the bottom cover at the midway point of the PF power module . No amount of extra screw tightning or even pressing the parts involved in the middle of the RF power module, as gingerly as I dared, would prevent that tinly flicker of light from getting through. There is certainly no lack of heat transfer to the bottom cover, which warms up across a wide area (positively flushes in fact) as soon as maximum permitted power is applied to the PA. The area also cools quickly when going to receive. However I'm wondering how the light was getting through - could it possibly be slight out-of-toerances in the heat spreader or bottom cover? (b) Receive gain of the XV144/IC-781 combination seems to be very high. Even with the preamp on on 28 Mhz with an antenna connected, the IC-781 is very quiet in terms of phase noise, there being no visible 'grass' on the spectrum scope visible either, even with the antenna connected. When the XV144 is brought in line there is an audible increase in background noise on 144Mhz and the 'grass' is clearly visible on the spectrum scope, even with the preamp on the IC-781 switched off. I have taken to using 10db of attenuation in the RF stage of the IC-781 to counteract this effect, although I suspect it would be better if the gain of the XV144 could be reduced. Any ideas? Some general onservations - build time in my case, admittedly rather ponderous, was around 25 hours. I bought an anti static mat for this XV144 build having read other reports that suggested some of the components are particularly sensitive to ESD. I also bought and installed the crystal oven and the extra tilt bail stand. The stand is quite useful, as it enablea a small fan to be placed on the bench beneath the vent holes in the bottom cover, to blow air into the enclosure and hopefully out of the top cover! Does away with the need for whacking the panels. I noticed a couple of manual inconsistencies. Mine came with Rev B March 2006 and Rev B-1 August 2006 Errata in the case of the Assembly Manual, and Rev C April 2006 and Rev C-1 May 2006 in the case of the Owner's Manual. The download link on the website in the case of the Errata to the Owner's Manual takes you to a previous version of the Errata (B-1, I think although the website refers to the later Errata but does not take you there). The Rev C-1 Errata to the Owner's Manual does, among other things, address the 'L17 tuning sug' issue that was recently being discussed here. I suspect there are also a couple of typos in the Assembly Manual, page 40: last step left hand side refers to installing a jumper in the lower left quadrant (think it should be right); and same page, right hand side last step, refers to installing Q1 in the lower left quadrant (think it should be right). All in all a very nice - and to me at least - very sophisticated piece of equipment. Not cheap but just a neat and clever way of getting on to 2 metres all mode with a high performance outcome. The LEDs and finish are really great to look at. The brightly lit XV144 makes my ex-K2 seem rather dowdy in comparison. Unfortunately I can't see the moon very often at all from my surrounded high rise apartment, otherwise I'd be tempted to try some EME. 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft]Test
___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV144 paired with ICOM
Don, Thanks, that's immensely helpful. I will probably do a jury rig switch from my dc supply for the base tests and then set up a pickup point when everything else is tested ok (in due time). Thanks for the heads up on the DE9. Appearances can sometimes be deceptive. 73 Wyn, VR2AX - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Wyn Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 9:46 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] XV144 paired with ICOM Wyn, I don't know what the ICOM requires, so you will have to verify their requirements, but I can say that there is no signal of the type you describe as an output from the XV144. Internally, there are several places where you can pick up 12 volts whenever the transverter is powered on - the cathode of D14 seems to me an easy place to connect to. You could connect that through a 10l resistor and bring it out to whatever place is convenient for you. Since you referred to the DE9 connector on the transverter as "RS232", I must comment - IT IS NOT!!! That connector is a 9 pin connector for connecting to the K2. Accidently connecting RS232 levels to this connector can damage the transverter (particularly selected pins of the microprocessor on the front panel) 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- A slightly tangential question. My XV144 is currently on order. I am planning to use it once built with my Icom IC-781 as the 28 mhz IF. The IC-781 requires a 'trigger' voltage of 2-13.8V dc into 10K ohm on one of the rear accessory sockets, in order to enable the low level transceive port on the rear of the radio. This is, I believe, a standard Icom setup, similar on the IC-7800 etc. After some heavy pouring over of the downloaded copy of the XV144 literature, I am still not sure whether this voltage is supplied by the XV144. There are a number of obvious easy, if less than 'neat', workarounds if required, but does anyone know if the XV144 can supply a control voltage of that level, 'on' when the XV144 is switched on, and 'off' when it is switched off? Eg off the RS232 port? 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] XV144 paired with Uniden HR-2600?
Hello All, A slightly tangential question. My XV144 is currently on order. I am planning to use it once built with my Icom IC-781 as the 28 mhz IF. The IC-781 requires a 'trigger' voltage of 2-13.8V dc into 10K ohm on one of the rear accessory sockets, in order to enable the low level transceive port on the rear of the radio. This is, I believe, a standard Icom setup, similar on the IC-7800 etc. After some heavy pouring over of the downloaded copy of the XV144 literature, I am still not sure whether this voltage is supplied by the XV144. There are a number of obvious easy, if less than 'neat', workarounds if required, but does anyone know if the XV144 can supply a control voltage of that level, 'on' when the XV144 is switched on, and 'off' when it is switched off? Eg off the RS232 port? 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question
Thanks, Don: I have a larger iron and will try that approach first. I could also have tried to source other caps but instinctively went first for something similar to what was there before. Again, greatly appraciate your advice, 73 Wyn, VR2AX - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Wyn Hughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:29 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question Wyn, If you have the hot air gun or oven and solder paste and know how to use it, by all means go that route, but if not, then just use the Hakko - you will be soldering two widely spaced tabs on the capacitors rather than finely spaced leads like are encountered on SMD ICs. Yes, the Kester 44 will work just fine if the diameter is small enough to properly control the amount of solder applied. If the copper area is large, crank the heat on the Hakko a bit higher or use a larger iron. Since you have a 15 to 20 mm gap on the PC board, why not use capacitors with leads rather than the SMD variety (unless you already have the SMD caps in hand). The extension tabs that you add will likely have just as much inductance as the capacitor leads. Of course, if this amp is for use at VHF/UHF, then any extra inductance may matter, but likely not for HF. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- This is distantly related to the mainstream of Q&A on this net.I intend to use my new K2 to drive a Icom IC-2KL amplifier. Please imagine for now, there is an intermediate amp between the K2 and the 2KL. One of the twin PA boards on the 2KL ( a backup, I have 2 of them) is unfortunately, smoked. My immediate task is to solder a pair of 1KV Syfer ceramic SMD 0.1 mfd caps between two troubled pcb tabs in the PA output coupliing stage, where the previous incumbents were vaporized, by previous owner. I think he/she ran it into a low R/high C load on 80 or 160. This is a heavy solder job at least as heavy as the KPA100 (judging from the manual). I think I may need to solder extension tabs to the caps, which are about 5mm wide, to bridge a 10-15mm gap between the tabs on the PA board. Of course, I need to clean up all the carbon residu on the PA board and tidy up the tabs first. How does one go about this task? Is a solder iron loke a Hakko 936 the best tool or should I use a hot air SMD soldering unit or even an oven? Should I use solder paste or ordinary 63/37 Kester 44? What temps shuld one use? I normally run the Kester 44 at 750F, as per the recommendation on their website. Comments much welcomed. Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] General SMD Soldering Question
This is distantly related to the mainstream of Q&A on this net.I intend to use my new K2 to drive a Icom IC-2KL amplifier. Please imagine for now, there is an intermediate amp between the K2 and the 2KL. One of the twin PA boards on the 2KL ( a backup, I have 2 of them) is unfortunately, smoked. My immediate task is to solder a pair of 1KV Syfer ceramic SMD 0.1 mfd caps between two troubled pcb tabs in the PA output coupliing stage, where the previous incumbents were vaporized, by previous owner. I think he/she ran it into a low R/high C load on 80 or 160. This is a heavy solder job at least as heavy as the KPA100 (judging from the manual). I think I may need to solder extension tabs to the caps, which are about 5mm wide, to bridge a 10-15mm gap between the tabs on the PA board. Of course, I need to clean up all the carbon residu on the PA board and tidy up the tabs first. How does one go about this task? Is a solder iron loke a Hakko 936 the best tool or should I use a hot air SMD soldering unit or even an oven? Should I use solder paste or ordinary 63/37 Kester 44? What temps shuld one use? I normally run the Kester 44 at 750F, as per the recommendation on their website. Comments much welcomed. Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations Question
I agee with these comments. Weller has a good reputation but is also a very high end product price wise here in Hong Kong. Hakko, Goot, though 'made in Japan' are similar and also made with outsourced parts and probbaly labour. A Hakko 936 runs about $150 and a Hakko 808 desoldering gun around $200 here. Importing from the US is not very satisfactory, as local voltage here is 220VAC I bought a Gordak 936A (China made clone of the Hako 936ESD) to build my K2. Cost $35. It worked perfectly satisfactorily although I did buy a Hakko 'made in Japan' steel tip, 1.6mm for the job. I used it for every solder joint in the K2, the tip still has llife left in it. I treated it to the recommended Kester 44 solder, which I had to import from Mouser, as I would be reluctant to trust 'brand x' China made solder at this stage of their development, warranty issues apart. Also have a Aoyue 936A which is similar. I also have a Aoyue 808 desoldering gun (China clone of the Hakko 808, cost about $55). That worked ok too using the standard (China made alloy) nozzle, as the Hakko nozzles were $25 here which I felt was too expensive. As things turned out I only had to use the desoldering gun a couple of times. Maybe it will fall apart in due time but it has served its purpose to date. The China made products seem reasonably well made and are good value for money out in thispart of the world. I have a Aoyue 474 desoldering station (Hakko 474 clone) waiting in the wings unused for that time! Wyn, VR2AX Weller is good but not made in the USA. At least not anymore. Components are made in China and Mexico like everything else. Get whatever you are comfortable with. Many soldering stations are overkill for most hobbiest. Pace makes a nice small soldering station called the Heatwise and like the METCAL uses the Currie effect to maintain very stable tip temp regardless of thermal load. Bottom line is to get something that your comfortable with and won't empty your wallet. Robert VE3RPF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 CW Waveform
I carried out some very basic tests today to determine whether the keying waveform and characteristics of my K2 (#5390) was acceptable. I set up the K2 in one room running at 10 watts output on 28200 into a dummy load, sending a string of cw dots. In another room I set up an Icom IC-781 on receive, preamp and spectrum scope on. The spectrum scope in the 781 has a dynamic range of 60db and sensitivity of 0.32 microvolt according to the spec. Receive antenna was 2 ft of wire in the 781. With no antenna connected to the 781 the 'residual' signal radiated by the dummy load (DL2500) was barely perceptible in the noise floor, with the 2 ft antenna the signal reistered about S9 on the 781 S meter with the preamp on. With the spectrum scope bandwidth set to +/- 25khz the cw waveform of the K2 looked very clean, with smooth skirts, at least as narrow as the marker signal generated from the 781. No spurii, clicks or modulation detected either on the spectrum scope or audibly when tuning around in the vicinity of the K2 signal on the 781. I also checked the signal on the AM position on the 781 and it sounded clean with no trace of low frequency modulation. Very basic admittedly but encouraging so far. A tropical cyclone has just arrived in Hong Kong so I have put off giving the K2 its first on air /P test until better weather prevails. 73 Wyn, VR2AX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] #5390 Completed - Novice's Reflections on Building a K2
Hello Don, Thanks for your wishes. After some 'minor tinkering' with my dc lead and CAL CUR, I can now manage to get 12 watts out of the K2 on 28 mhz (at 14V DC, at 12V DC I can get 10 watts out measured on my Bird 43 into a DL2500). Will try to get on around 14025 +/- 5 this weekend as VR2AX/P and try to have some fun. Hope to have a qso one day. 73, Wyn, VR2AX > > Congratulations on your accomplishments and thanks for the description of your efforts. Enjoy your K2 whether /P as originally intended, or for your home station QSOs as well. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] #5390 Completed - Novice's Reflections on Building a K2
For any novices like myself: Completed K2 #5390 today. Basic 10 - 80 m cw model. No options (yet). Everything tested basically ok. Log records; Early February 2006: bought in preference to a Tentec Argo V (high current draw on the Argo, not suitable for light /P, clinched it for the K2) Feb - April 2006: slow, rather nervous and self questioning lead up to the actual build. Read the manual and did basic inventory of parts. Built the Ngen for soldering practice. Bought a decent temp controlled soldering station and desoldering gun (China made). Bought Kester 44 solder from Mouser. Lots of research on internet and ARRL handbook re soldering, and components last iron I used was a 100 watt for PL259 plugs and amp building. Practice soldering and desoldering for small solid state parts. . Sorted components into large number of plastic boxes with compartments for like types. This made the job seem less daunting from a psychological viewpoint. April 30, 2006 - started on the Control Board build then Front Board. Took 5 days solid work, over a couple of weeks, time permitting. All tested ok. (Soldering the ICs not as hard as it sounded. However, required a high magnification illuminated desk lamp, plus a new pair of reading spectacles. Only had to use the desoldering gun a couple of times, but it was worth the money). Experienced quite a lot of backacke, prefer to solder 'up close and personal' with the magnifier, easier to detect/avoid solder errors. However much care you think you take, errors will occur. Good organization and method helps and for a novice like me, was essential. Finished the RF Board 40 meter rx about a week ago. Surprised that it worked first time. (I could not hear the 'birdie' on 7000 khz until the BFO had been set as per the manual. Don't automatically assume there is an error immediately. Check and double check. If tired, put the kit away until next time). July 9, 2006: Completed. Tested basically ok. Very responsive on receive. I even listened to the BBC on 21660 relay from Singapore with a 5 ft wire antenna on the floor. Saved me turning on the IC-781. Total number of days worked on: 20 days (including the 5 days to finish the Control/Front boards). Some days were short (an hour), many like yesterday were long and arduous. Time taken to build? Not sure, would guess minimum 60 hours, probably closer to 80 hours. Issues? Power output on 28 mhz was a little low on the internal K2 meter yesterday, about 8-9 watts. The internal meter was reading up to 15 watts out on all other bands. Expert K2 buildern locally suggested rewiding T2 - too tired to do that now. 'Prodded' T2 a few times (tried to tidy it up/elevate it a bit more off the board). Hooked up the Bird 43 today with a 50 watt slug. Noted that power readinggs on all bands today were a little lower, according to the K2 internal meter. However, on the Bird 43, there is 9 watts out indicated on 28 mhz and up to12 - 13 watts out on other bands, depending on the band. Probably not too much wrong, but may rewind T2 and maybe T3 for experiment in due course. Also managed to scuff off the paint very slightly about 1.5mm x 1.5mm on the front panel cover at the curve on the top, despite thinking I was lsietening to the advive in the manual to watch out for that. Will get some touch up paint from Elecraft. Was it worth it? Time will tell. I don't think anyone would want to build the K2 as a commercial venture, only for the pleasure of doing so. I will try some /P, which is what I kot the K2 for, in the next couple of weeks. Quite an experience building the K2, still have some backache. Overall, a positive experience. I suspect the K2 project may also serve a slightly different purpose from that which it was acquired for. Instead of just using it as a utilitarian /P radio, it will serve as a self-educational radio. I always wondered what transistors and ICs actually did, now I have a slightly better idea. Cheers and 73 from Hong Kong, Wyn, VR2AX (ex VS6UK), GW3YGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 IF Alignment Question
I also found this procedure slightly confusing when I was going through it yesterday. The manual tells you to use a DMM to measure AC volts in the speaker out socket as an alternative to by ear assessment. I could measure the audio volts out ok but it did not tell me anything about the signal to noise ratio. I found that the 'birdie' on about 7000 is easier to detect if you have the tuning steps set to fine (0.1 or 0.01 khz) as otherwise you can tune right past it if the step is set to 1 khz. In the end I settled for just leaving the slug turned about 1 turn in, the birdie sounded quite loud and clear at that setting. Turning it further did seem to bring up the noise slightly. 73, Wyn VR2AX Are we speaking of the same L34? Mine "peaked" at nearly the top, not a turn or so from the top. As I remember I was peaking for the loudness of the noise; nary a signal around. de Joe, aa4nn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Chas, Thanks for your comments. It's interesting to see that someone else has come to some very similar fairly similar basic conclusions as oneself. I have emailed RF Parts for the current price of the 4-1000a. At this stage, it may remain a drwing board exercise.. 73s, Wyn - Original Message - From: "Charles Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Wyn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2 Wyn, A 4-1000A is the nearest new(er) design tube. I thought about how I could make the old guy put out something exciting when driven by my K2. I could swamp the input with a 200 ohm resistor and use a 4:1 balun and the impedance to the K2 would still be 50 ohms. .. The tube itself does not take any power in class AB1, but the input voltage needs to be so much for a given output. A 4:1 balun would increase the drive voltage by a factor of 4 times which would increase the output of the amp to 1600 watts if the drive remained the same, 800 watts with 10 watts drive.. From 20 watts to 1600 watts is a power gain of 19 dB which in my opinion is a little high. I would be more comfortable with a power gain of 16 dB, but you can try it. ... Those tubes are expensive. 73, Chas W1CG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Greetings from a newbie K2 builder. I am currently building #5390. Into phase 3 now, somewhere in the early stage of the rf board. Don't get too much time for this detailed work and my xyl has made me clear out the spare bedroom in our apartment (aka construction area), as she does not seem to like the lead droppings and other bits and pieces on the floor, while one of our daughters and young toddler are visiting. While the build is only a work in progress, and although it passed the stage 1 and stage 2 tests it's not over till it's over, my mind is turning to the question how to exploit the K2 when it finally gets launched. Let me say, I have nothing against qrp. The main reason I bought the kit (instead of an Argo V), was the desire to have a low current drain rig, to take on /P. I don't have much of an antenna sytem at this VR2 location. I have a Icom IC-781 which serves as the main rig at this station, but if the K2 works, I would like to try it as a main station rig with decent power as well as a /P rig. Here's the question. My only amp at this location is a Drale L4. It is just a 10db gain amp. So it would only produce at most, 150 watts driven by the K2. In practice, probably less. I have never driven a grounded grid triode amp sccessfully with such low power with any success. How does one drive a 10-15 watt output radio to serious output without an intermediate amp? I have designed and built many amps and repaired many others but not before an amp with a projected power gain of 20db. They were all either grounded grid triode affairs or a G2DAF (pair of 813), which is pretty similar. My basic thinking is a high mu tetrode amp, grid driven, preferably with a swamp resistor as input but, if needed, a tuned input and neutralized. I love glass tubes and am shy of using a 4cX400a or 4cx800a type tube, as I hated my ex-Alpha 01b, although I think the tubes would probably work ok but uninspiringly with the right design. I would really like to try a 4-1000a or even a 4-400a in that configuration. I have no issues with working on high voltage and plan to use the 2.5kv supply from the L4, though the 4-1000a does benefit from a higher anode voltage if available. I would be interested to hear from anyone else who has gone down this road and of their experiences. Meanwhile, best 73s and GL to you all from Hong Kong. Wyn VR2AX (ex VS6UK) GW3YGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
