[Elecraft] KPA100 KAT100 integration - Question answered!
DOH! - It all seems so obvious now - for one thing, I could not use my existing control cable (without the KIO2) because the barefoot K2 has no place to plug it in! I now understand that: (1) the KIO2 includes a new DB9 connector for the barefoot K2 rear panel, and (2) that one of the functions of the KIO2 (in addition to level shifting, etc, for computer control) is provide an internal interconnnection for the AUXBUS and other control signals from Control Board ribbon cable connector of the barefoot K2 to the new DB9 connector, from which the signals can be conveyed (via control cable) to the KPA100/KAT100 in the new box. Many thanks to those who replied to my question. Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 KPA100 integration question
I have read the KAT100/KPA100 description by KK7P, as well as various reflector postings. However, the KK7P description covered several configurations, including operating a K2 with only the KPA100 in an EC-2, as well as with a KAT100 KPA100 integrated in the EC-2. Thus, I'm still not clear on a couple things. I want to remove the KPA100 from my K2 and install it in the KAT100-2 enclosure. Since I will NOT be using any type of computer control, is it still necessary to install a KIO2 in the K2 and beef up the handling capacity of the RF choke? Or, Is it sufficient to merely make the internal EC-2 interconnections as described in the KK7P description, and use the same control cable (which does not include the branch cable for connection to a PC) between the barefoot K2 and the EC-2 combo that I formerly used when operating the KAT100 (in the EC-2) and the KPA100 (in the K2). Am I correct that I can connect the control cable to EITHER the KPA100 DB-9 or the KAT100 DB-9, in the EC-2? Thanks. Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 relay problem SOLVED
After I got started with good hints from Don and Jack, Gary helped me nail it. Turned out to be bad U2, which I probably zapped with static when installing it. Symptoms (on a KAT100, new, under construction) were no operation of ANY relay, although the front panel LEDs lit up correctly when switching between ANT1/ANT2 and adjusting power on the K2. A major clue was the 2.5 volts measured on U2, pin 12 (RYLOAD), which as Jack pointed out was not a valid logic level. It should have been zero. At Gary's suggestion, I removed the processor U1 (carefully, using an anti-static wrist strap), bent pin 15 of U1 straight out horizontally, and re-inserted U1 so that pin 15 was no longer connecting the processor to RYLOAD. Voltage on pin 12 of U2 jumped to 4.1 volts, so U1 was OK, trying to pull RYLOAD down - something else was pulling it high. I re-inspected the board with a magnifier and even took some macro digital photos and blew them way up on the computer screen so the pads of U1 and U2 were as big as postcards (I KNEW those 5 megapixels would come in handy).There were no shorts or solder splashes, although left-over rosin looks really gross at that magnification! This meant it was probably one of the 6B595s U2, U3, or U4. I ordered a new 6B595 and asked Lisa and the folks at Elecraft to get it to me overnight to Maryland, which they did. OK, it's probably one of the three 6B595s U2, U3, or U4 - but which one? Gary suggested I check and and see if one of the 6B595s was warmer than the others. I let things run for about 15 minutes and checked - all were cool. NOW what? Then I realized I had forgotten to bend pin 15 of U1 back to its normal position, so U1 hadn't been soaking up electrons, trying to get RYLOAD to ground.I re-inserted U1 in its normal configuration and after only a couple of minutes, U2 was noticeably warmer than the other two chips. I clipped the 20 leads of U2 and fired up the Hakko desoldering pump that people on the list had spoken highly of. Quickly, all 20 holes were sucked clean and the leads fell out, didn't even have to use solder wick. I popped in the new 6B595, fired things up and - klackety klack - SUCCESS! It took a while but, with lots of help, I found the problem and learned a lot in the process. I'm really proud to be part of the great Elecraft community! 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 signal question
Thanks, Don. Actually, I get NO action from ANY relay, although the LEDs are switching correctly. I tried to check the signal RYDATA (as best I could with no scope, only DMM) and it is an absolutely constant level. The front panel signal FPDATA jumps around in value as the signals come through to activate the LEDs, but RYDATA is dead still. There is 12 v on the the hot side of the relays and 5 volts on pins 2 of U2, U3, and U4. With power removed, RYDATA measures over 5 megs to ground. Any other suggestions? 73, Bob, WO3E Bob, I would think Q3 is OK since it simply acts as a switch - it does not produce any voltage. The MCU (U1) pin 39 is the source for voltage on the drain of Q3, and a high level of somewhere near 5 volts is to be expected. Look somewhere else for the problem. It is difficult to see directly whether the microprocessor is creating the correct output because it is fed to the relay drivers as serial data, but the relay driver pins should have the outputs for the selected relays at a low level, and go to about 12 volts on the pins connected to the unselected relays. Check the schematic sheet 1 to see which pins correspond to which relays. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 signal question
Jack, as I mentioned to Don, I get NO relay action on ANY relay, as I switch from ANT1 to ANT2 and /or adjust POWER on the K2/KPA100. The KAT100 front panel LEDs light up correctly. I was almost certain that before when I checked I saw no change on RYDATA, but I checked again and found that RYDATA does indeed switch from steady 5v to steady zero and back, when I switch from ANT1 to ANT2 and back. POWER adjust has no effect on RYDATA. FPDATA is at 5v for for all positions of the K2 panel, although FPDATA briefly drops and returns to 5v when I adjust the K2 and the KAT100 LEDs switch. Q3 is probably not your problem. It is an open-drain switch that inverts the 8R signal, conditioning it for the microcontroller. It appears that the MCU provides the pullup for the signal through the internal pullup on PB6. 4.99 volts is about right for this signal. Just what is the relay problem you are seeing? If Q3 and the /8R signals were bad, the KAT would not switch to transmit conditions at all. This would be indicated in a number of ways, such as not even trying to tune. Relay troubles, however, could be isolated to a small area in the circuit. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 signal question
This is a new KAT100, just completed and under test. I have never observed ANY relay action. RYLOAD remains at 2.25v and bounces a bit each time I adjust, say, ANT1 to ANT2. RYCK appears steady at about zero; and 5Megs to ground with no power. U3-3 and U4-4 are always zero, also 5Megs to ground with no power. RYDATA (at both U1-17 and U2-3) is interesting - its action varies according to setting of the K2 ATU menu. When ATU is set to AUTO, adjustment of ANT1 to ANT2 causes RYDATA to switch between zero and 5v. When ATU is set to C3, for example, RYDATA remains constant at 5v with adjustment of ANT1 to ANT2 (bounces a bit when switching). However, when I powered down, and back up again, I could not always reproduce this exact behavior. After playing around, I reached an ATU menu condition where I could see a five volt swing as I switched between ANT1 and ANT2. I looked for a similar swing at U2-18 and U3-3. There was no corresponding swing, always zero. Am I correct that the finger of suspicion is beginning to point at U2? None of these measurements really say anything. What is the level of RYDATA, RYLOAD and RYCK at both the MCU and U2, U3 and U4? Have the relays ever worked, or is this a new unit? You might want to check the solder joints at pins 15, 16 and 17 of the MCU, as well as those at pin 3 of U2, and 12 and 13 of U2, U3 and U4. Lastly, cycle through the K2 menu's C and L settings to check for any relay action. It is quite possible that the KAT100 is simply not commanding the relays to change - the question in that case is why not? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 signal question
To put it another way, what _is_ working? Sorry, I had not repeated information from an earlier post: I have proceded in constructing the KAT100 as far as the step of connecting the KAT100 to the K2/KPA100, on the K2 panel switching back and forth between ANT1 and ANT2, looking for proper illumination of the tuner LEDs, and listening for operation of the tuner relays. The K2 menu includes an ATU entry, with proper submenu entries (AUTO, L1, C1, etc) which I interpreted to mean that the K2 was recognizing the presence of the tuner. The tuner LEDs correctly indicate operation of K2 controls (ANT1/2 and HI/tuner relay action from ANT1/ANT2, power adjust, K2 ATU menu operation, or anything else. A voltage of 2.25 voltswould indicate that it is very rapidly changing and your VOM is averaging it to that level, or something is incorrectly connected on the board. Again, maybe a bad solder joint, not soldered at all, OR, a solder splash causing a short from the RYLOAD line to a signal that is normally high (even +5V). .. The evidence is getting stronger for a short between two conductors on the board. It is possible that one of the ICs is internally shorted causing the problem, but it is more likely that the problem is external to the chips. Go back and inspect the board with a good magnifying glass, and you might check your solder joints. I had carefully inspected the board with Optivisor, but will check again for splashes. All solder joints look shiny, but I'll re-heat any joints that are in the path of signals we are looking at. Also, check the MCU (U1) to make sure that all pins are in the socket and that none got bent under when installing the chip. Bending pins when inserting chips into sockets is way too easy to do, especially for 40 pin devices. A bent pin could be shorting against another pin, causing conditions similar to what you described. Using the magnifier, the MPU pins look even and properly inserted. I had considered lifting the MPU out of its socket for a closer look, but thought that might cause more problems than it would reveal.I'll do it now. Thanks again, and I will let you know if I find anything. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT100 – No relay action
After success on K2#4565, KAT2, KDSP2, KNB2, KAT2, KSB2, and KPA100, I’ve hit a problem with my KAT100. No relay action at all. When I power up and connect the KAT100 and K2/KPA100, the K2 menu shows ATU and multiple ATU options submenu, the KAT100 LEDs correctly show switching between ANT1 and ANT2 and switching between HI and LOW power when the K2 power control is adjusted. But no relay action. Voltage checks show 12V on both sides of RFC2 and 5V to pin2 of U2, U3, and U4. Inspection shows no solder bridges around U1 or U2. Since the LEDs are working, seems like it’s probable the processor U1 is working OK and successfully getting its information from the K2. Likely problem would seem to be with the signal RYDATA from pin 17 of the processor to pin 3 of U2. I re-heated both these pins, with no change in results. (By the way, how is RYDATA supposed to get from U1,pin 17 to U2,pin 3? Seems like there is no board trace connecting the two.) Do I have a bad U2? It did take multiple attempts before getting its pins squared up prior to insertion in the RF board, but I had my anti-static strap on. Any suggestions? Thanks. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Can MFJ PS be cleaned up?
I wsa given an MFJ-1317 PS, rated to supply 2.89A at 13.8VDC. However, this is apparently not one of the lucky ones, and it puts out lots of hash. I put several ferrite cores on both the input and output lines, with little improvement - the hash appears to be coming through the case. Has anyone had any luck cleaning up one of these? Also, it's not obvious how to open the case, and before I use brute force, does anyone have any hints? TIA, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] It's Island Night!
Incredible what a few hours this afternoon tossing the 66 ft wire into the backyard trees can do. After checking in with Kevin on 20meter ECN with #4565, later tonight I worked CO, TK, and 3B8 with #4565! Amazing! 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Now that we know
Then I started studying electronics in the mid 60s with tube gear. Reminds me of the time I was an Explorer Scout advisor in the 80's and one of the kids came up, showed me an old schematic, and asked What's this funny thing here? It's got an upsidedown T on top, dotted line in the middle, solid line on the bottom with a teepee underneath, all inside of a circle. I told him it was a vacuum tube. Blank stare. So I added, It's like a cross between an FET and a lightbulb. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CAL FIL question on K2 #4565
I completed assembly of #4565 and all seemed well. I used Spectrogram to perform CAL FIL using the N0SS article as a guide, but chose 650Hz as my sidetone freq since I thought I preferred a slightly higher tone, and selected 100Hz as FIL4 bandwidth. I completed the CAL FIL process, with all values of the BFO parameter and BFO freq consistent with (not quite identical to) the manual. After tuning around the bands for a while (and having a ball!), I decided that the sidetone freq was too high and 600 Hz was probably what I wanted, after all. So I selected 600 as the sidetone and tried to re-do CAL FIL. CW NORMAL went well, and I got slightly different values than for 650 Hz, as expected. Most of CW REVERSE seemed OK also - except for FIL1 and FIL4. For FIL1, the BFO parameter was EXACTLY the same as for CW NORMAL, and for FIL4 the BFO parameter was the same as the bandwidth center value. Specifically, here is what I found: Using band noise at 10.115 since it was quieter than other bands on a Saturday morning, I found the BFO parameter at center of bandwidth (lowest tone of background noise) to be about 151 (same as on the previous 650Hz run). Here are the BFO parameters for the four filters on CW NORMAL and CW reverse: CW NORMAL- FIL1: 122; FIL2:114; FIL3: 112; FIL4: 110 CW REVERSE - FIL1: 122; FIL2: 155; FIL3: 153; FIL4: 151 I understand that all BFO parameter values for CW REVERSE should be ABOVE bandwidth center (151). The only possible complicating factor I noted was that occasional signals could be heard (actually seen) on the band, manifesting themselves as spikes on the Spectrogram display. Actually, it was one of these that leads me to believe that I was properly getting a reverse display between CW NORMAL and REVERSE, since one spike appeared at the right edge of the Spectrogram display on NORMAL and at an equal distance from the left edge on REVERSE. I would appreciate suggestions on what 's happening. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL question on K2 #4565
Thanks, Ron. I did indeed have the BFO for FIL1 on CW-R on the wrong side. I cranked the BFO parameter up toward the center value and beyond, and saw another bandpass display (the right one) on Spectrogram. I had not appreciated that you will get a similar display on either side of the bandpass center. It's all starting to come together now. All I have to do now is get resonant antenna up (or build the KAT2) and have the first QSO. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Components on RF board bottom
Thanks for all the suggestions for easing the three components onto the bottom of the RF board. I'm looking forward to receiving the replacement RF choke and giving it another shot - this time being VERY gentle on the leads. --Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 RF board - components on bottom?
I was finally able to free up some blocks of time and begin construction of K2 #4565. This, and my construction of a KX1 earlier this year, is the most satisfying and enjoyable experience in ham radio that I've had in years. I've also learned a great deal monitoring the discussions on the reflector. My construction was proceding successfully (if slowly) up to the point in Assembly, Part II, page 52, where components are connected to U4 (the PLL) on the bottom of the RF board. I found this to be the trickiest part so far (haven't begun the toroids yet!). After several failures, and much thought and preparation with pre-bending and tinning of leads, I was finally able to get C91, C88, RFC15 soldered to the correct points on the bottom of the board - with no shorts. However, I now have no continuity through RFC 15. I assume that means I destroyed the choke during the mounting process, so I'm ordering a replacement and will try again next week. Before I do that, does anyone have any words of wisdom on how to manipulate and mount these components to increase my chances of success on the next attempt. Thanks. Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N-GEN noise generator question
This is my first kit in over 35 years, so I have a basic question. The N-GEN noise generator kit uses a surface mount device designated MAR-1 as U1, a tiny drum-shaped body with four leads protruding radially outward from the center. The end of one of the leads is cut at a slant. The kit instructions say to orient the slant-cut lead toward the center of the circuit board. However, I'm not sure which side of the device should be facing up. One side of the device is labeled .10, with an underscore under the zero, and I would assume this side should be facing up. However, the directions also say that the body of the device will fit into the hole in the board between the pads, so if I place the longer side of the body of the device into the hole (to have more of the device extending into the hole), the label is now face down. Both orientations result in the four leads positioned above the pads on the board and both have the slant-cut lead pointing to the center of the board - which should I use? 73, Bob, WO3E PS: It's great to bebuilding again, but DANG - these modern parts are small! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: N-GEN noise generator question
Thanks, guys. Now I can get back to it. BTW, what type of device is the MAR-1? 73, Bob, WO3E By the way it will work eithere way you mount it as long as the slanted lead is pointing toward C2. The two leads on either side are connected to ground. 73'Jim K4ZM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
