[Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Dave Zeph
I was going to install a new Filter before the SS next weekend.  I used the
proper size Phillips screwdriver.  The screws on the case lid came out
easily.  However one of the two side screws that hold the Stiffener Bar will
not break loose.  The last time this screw was removed and reinstalled was
at the factory.

 

I know it's the right size Phillips.  It fit fine in the other screws.  But
despite trying to bear down on this screw, the Phillips head just slips
inside of the screw head.  Before it gets round off any more, I thought I'd
ask for recommendations.  I'd like to be able to install the Filter without
damaging the case.  Regardless it'll have to be replaced with a regular Ace
Hardware SS screw.

 

 

Thanks .. Dave, W9ZRX

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Bill W4ZV

Dave Zeph wrote:
 
 I was going to install a new Filter before the SS next weekend.  I used
 the
 proper size Phillips screwdriver.  The screws on the case lid came out
 easily.  However one of the two side screws that hold the Stiffener Bar
 will
 not break loose.  
 

I've done that a few times!  Unscrew all the remaining screws on the side
panel.  Then carefully rotate the entire panel slightly counterclockwise
about the locked screw.  This should remove some tension on the screw so you
can then remove it with the screwdriver.  If you had 2 locked screws on a
panel this method would not work.  I've since learned to be very careful
when tightening the screws! 

73  GL!

Bill


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[Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822.  822 was fine, but
with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times.  I
sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together!

Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
LOL

So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side
panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels).  Worst case, you
can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they
are really called) and take it out that way.  I did not need to do
that.

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread kevinr
Backward drill bit?  Would that be an Easy Out?

Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822.  822 was fine, but
 with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times.  I
 sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together!

 Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
 in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
 came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
 undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
 originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
 LOL

 So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side
 panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels).  Worst case, you
 can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they
 are really called) and take it out that way.  I did not need to do
 that.

 de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread George Dubovsky
No, there are actually left-hand drill bits for certain specialty
operations. This would be one of them ;-)

I can testify that left-hand drills and left-hand taps should be securely
locked up in the shop lest they vex the unwary - hehe.

73,

geo - n4ua

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 5:44 PM, kevinr kev...@coho.net wrote:

 Backward drill bit?  Would that be an Easy Out?

 Kevin.  KD5ONS


 On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
  I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822.  822 was fine, but
  with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times.  I
  sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together!
 
  Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
  in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
  came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
  undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
  originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
  LOL
 
  So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side
  panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels).  Worst case, you
  can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they
  are really called) and take it out that way.  I did not need to do
  that.
 
  de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Phil Kane
On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBACK wrote:

 So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side
 panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels).  Worst case, you
 can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they
 are really called) and take it out that way.  I did not need to do
 that.

  It's called an Easy-Out and it's a rather brute force
  procedure, drilling and tapping a pilot hole in the screw.  I
  hate to do that in any screw smaller than 1/4 inch diameter!

  If the problem is that there isn't enough torque to loosen the
  screw and the screwdriver rides out of the groove(s), there are
  compounds (one brand is Gitta Grip), a paste that when
  applied in very small quantities to the tip of the screwdriver
  will keep it in the groove(s) and permit more torque to be
  applied to loosen a reluctant screw.  A small container goes a
  very long way.  Search for it on the 'web - it's hard to find
  at retail.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
EZ outs?

Mike W0MU

J6M CQ WW DX CW Contest 2011
J6/W0MU November 21 - December 1 2011
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 11/13/2011 3:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 I recently upgraded my first run K3 and SN 822.  822 was fine, but
 with #295, I had the same thing as you describe..several times.  I
 sure did not tighten them that much when I put it together!

 Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
 in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
 came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
 undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
 originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
 LOL

 So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side
 panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels).  Worst case, you
 can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they
 are really called) and take it out that way.  I did not need to do
 that.

 de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I had this happen once and was stuck because it wasn't in a place that
permitted removing all the other screws and rotating the panel, so I simply
drilled the screw out. It's very simple and doesn't damage the threads or
panel with the flat head screws used in the K3 and subsequent Elecraft gear.


I used a drill bit the same diameter as the shaft of the screw. The cross
grooves in the head hold it centered nicely. Drill slowly and suddenly the
head of the screw will fall off, freeing the panel. Then you can remove the
threaded screw shaft with your fingers - it will no longer be jammed (unless
it was cross-threaded when it was put in).

Done carefully, there is no damage to the panel or the threaded hole.  

Now all you need is a replacement screw.

Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Kane
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 3:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

On 11/13/2011 2:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBACK wrote:

 So you may need to be a bit more creative than simply rocking the side
 panel 30 degrees to loosen it up (or other panels).  Worst case, you
 can get one of the backwards drill bits (no, I don't know what they
 are really called) and take it out that way.  I did not need to do
 that.

  It's called an Easy-Out and it's a rather brute force
  procedure, drilling and tapping a pilot hole in the screw.  I
  hate to do that in any screw smaller than 1/4 inch diameter!

  If the problem is that there isn't enough torque to loosen the
  screw and the screwdriver rides out of the groove(s), there are
  compounds (one brand is Gitta Grip), a paste that when
  applied in very small quantities to the tip of the screwdriver
  will keep it in the groove(s) and permit more torque to be
  applied to loosen a reluctant screw.  A small container goes a
  very long way.  Search for it on the 'web - it's hard to find
  at retail.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip 
out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip 
look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is 
stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.  I 
replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
months.  Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
the screwhead.  When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
tools will cause you headaches in the long run.

Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in 
aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
will allow the screw to be removed.

That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
past 50 years.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
 in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
 came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
 undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
 originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
 LOL

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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Bob K6UJ
I agree on the (phillips) screwdriver tips.  They sneak up on you and you don't 
realize that they are rounded 
off.  What I have done for another alternate is to take a dremmel cut off disc, 
the thinnest one and carefully cut a tiny 
groove across the head of the screw after first sticking down two small strips 
of duct tape on both sides of the screw for protection.
Just a tiny slot is all that is needed, then take a flat blade screwdriver and 
try to back it out.  First I (gently) tap the screwdriver head with 
a small hammer (gently) this helps loosen the interface between the steel screw 
thread and the aluminum.  
If you have a new phillips screwdriver you might try the (gentle) tap then turn 
approach first and see what happens.
Good luck, I know it is frustrating !
Thumbs up on the drop of oil on the screw threads too !!!


Bob
K6UJ




On Nov 13, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip 
 out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip 
 look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is 
 stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.  I 
 replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
 months.  Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
 the screwhead.  When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
 tools will cause you headaches in the long run.
 
 Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in 
 aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
 expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
 inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
 oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
 will allow the screw to be removed.
 
 That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
 past 50 years.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
 in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
 came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
 undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
 originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
 LOL
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread R Thompson
Rapid cooling of the screw may also help.  You don't need to go out and
buy some freeze spray if you have a can of dry air aerosol dust remover.
Turn the can upside down, using an extender tip that often comes with
contact cleaner or aerosol lubricants, and try to limit the spray to the
screw.  Turned upside down the can releases the liquid propellent which
is about as good as freeze spray.

   Ron VE8RT

On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip 
 out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip 
 look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is 
 stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.  I 
 replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
 months.  Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
 the screwhead.  When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
 tools will cause you headaches in the long run.
 
 Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in 
 aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
 expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
 inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
 oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
 will allow the screw to be removed.
 
 That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
 past 50 years.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
  Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
  in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
  came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
  undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
  originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
  LOL
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread JWKIMBALL
I've found a little dab of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip  
works wonders working on aircraft parts.
 
Jim
K5AUP
 
 
In a message dated 11/13/2011 9:37:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
k...@pacbell.net writes:

I agree  on the (phillips) screwdriver tips.  They sneak up on you and you 
don't  realize that they are rounded 
off.  What I have done for another  alternate is to take a dremmel cut off 
disc, the thinnest one and carefully  cut a tiny 
groove across the head of the screw after first sticking down  two small 
strips of duct tape on both sides of the screw for  protection.
Just a tiny slot is all that is needed, then take a flat blade  screwdriver 
and try to back it out.  First I (gently) tap the screwdriver  head with 
a small hammer (gently) this helps loosen the interface between  the steel 
screw thread and the aluminum.  
If you have a new phillips  screwdriver you might try the (gentle) tap then 
turn approach first and see  what happens.
Good luck, I know it is frustrating !
Thumbs up on the  drop of oil on the screw threads too  !!!


Bob
K6UJ




On Nov 13, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Don  Wilhelm wrote:

 I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn  screwdriver tip can strip 
 out the screwhead - if there is any doubt  and the corners of the tip 
 look at all shiny, buy a new one - of  course, after the screwhead is 
 stripped, it is like closing the barn  door after the horse got out.  I 
 replace the #1 phillips  screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
 months.  Once the edges  get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
 the screwhead.   When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
 tools will  cause you headaches in the long run.
 
 Secondly, this is a  potential problem with steel screws binding in 
 aluminum - it is also  temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
 expand at the same  rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
 inserting  the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
 oil  around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
  will allow the screw to be removed.
 
 That is just my  experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
 past 50  years.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 11/13/2011  5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 Besides what Bill has contributed  to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
 in place and manage to remove  all the other screws so that the block
 came off with the side  panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
 undo the  block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
  originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening  screws?
 LOL
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Randy Farmer
Another almost miraculous chemical fix for such problems is to get your 
hands on a can of Kano Kroil. (See details at http://www.kanolabs.com/). 
This stuff is flat-out unbelievable. I used it for many years to loosen 
stubbornly rusted and/or galled antenna hardware and it never failed to 
do the job. It used to be hard for civilians to get, but my dad was a 
maintenance mechanic at an Alcoa Aluminum rolling mill and he got me a 
can or three. That was around 30 years ago, and I still have most of one 
can left. I see now that you can buy it directly from the company's web 
site. It ain't cheap, but it's the best thing going.

73...
Randy, W8FN

 Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in
 aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not
 expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when
 inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of
 oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in
 will allow the screw to be removed.
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread R Thompson
While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics.

Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then
try it on the screwhead.

OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another
trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip
and cement the tip to the screw.

One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of
damaging something if it slips off.  And wear eye protection, most of
the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a
projectile.  I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the
screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and
getting started backing out.

Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have
a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen
hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise
enough to loosen it.

Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the
drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out
the centre of the screw and remove the remains.  In cases where the
screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this
usually does.  There is very very high risk of drilling off square
though and damaging the original threads.

   Ron VE8RT



On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip 
 out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip 
 look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is 
 stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.  I 
 replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
 months.  Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
 the screwhead.  When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
 tools will cause you headaches in the long run.
 
 Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in 
 aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
 expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
 inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
 oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
 will allow the screw to be removed.
 
 That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
 past 50 years.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
  Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
  in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
  came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
  undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
  originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
  LOL
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
As I reported earlier, I found that this is quite easy to do because the
cross point slots make a well-centered starting point. 

I used a Dremel tool that was easy to hold. 

You don't need to get anywhere near the threads. The flat head of the screw
will come loose the moment the drill bit has passed through it and long
before it's anywhere near the threads behind the panel. 

The big thing is to use a drill bit that is the same diameter as the screw
shaft. You don't want to open up the hole in the panel. That would allow
screws to bottom out against what's behind the panel and never tighten
against the panel itself. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the
drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out
the centre of the screw and remove the remains.  In cases where the
screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this
usually does.  There is very very high risk of drilling off square
though and damaging the original threads.

   Ron VE8RT

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Re: [Elecraft] Overtighted Case Screw Removal?

2011-11-13 Thread Matt Zilmer
If it's tight enough to require this much intervention and
compenstion, just drill off all of the screw heads and replace the 2-D
block and the countersunk screws.  Don't panic.

You're not dealing with a relic, it's a modern ham rig.  Any part(s)
can be replaced easily, and Elecraft support for problems like this is
excellent.

After this much discussion I have little doubt Elecraft tech support
would not send the replacement parts to you gratis in an envelope
pretty quick-quick.  They almost always do this.  It is Their Way.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:50:27 -0700, you wrote:

While I'm at it, here are a couple of tricks used by aviation mechanics.

Using a good screwdriver tip, dip it spark plug cleaner abrasive, then
try it on the screwhead.

OK, so you don't keep a stock of spark plug cleaner abrasive, another
trick is to use a very small amount of crazy glue on the screwdriver tip
and cement the tip to the screw.

One that works for me with small screws, but it has a higher risk of
damaging something if it slips off.  And wear eye protection, most of
the times my flush cutters failed they sent the broken blade flying as a
projectile.  I put one blade of the flush cutter in the centre of the
screw and grip the outside edge of the screw with the other blade and
getting started backing out.

Another risky approach, again eye protection is recommended, if you have
a small enough chisel, then with light taps from a light ball peen
hammer drive the chisel into one edge of the screw counter clockwise
enough to loosen it.

Lastly, and only if you have good eyes, an excellent sense of having the
drill bit square to the screw, and a steady hand, you could drill out
the centre of the screw and remove the remains.  In cases where the
screw bottomed out onto something solid and nothing else worked, this
usually does.  There is very very high risk of drilling off square
though and damaging the original threads.

   Ron VE8RT



On Sun, 2011-11-13 at 21:15 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 I would like to add 2 things.  First, a worn screwdriver tip can strip 
 out the screwhead - if there is any doubt and the corners of the tip 
 look at all shiny, buy a new one - of course, after the screwhead is 
 stripped, it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out.  I 
 replace the #1 phillips screwdriver at my workbench every 3 or 4 
 months.  Once the edges get rounded, there is danger of stripping out 
 the screwhead.  When buying a new screwdriver, get a good one, bargain 
 tools will cause you headaches in the long run.
 
 Secondly, this is a potential problem with steel screws binding in 
 aluminum - it is also temperature dependent - aluminum and steel do not 
 expand at the same rate.  A tiny drop of oil on the screw threads when 
 inserting the screw will prevent future occurrences, and often a drop of 
 oil around the screw head and a half hour of patience while it seeps in 
 will allow the screw to be removed.
 
 That is just my experience of working with screws accumulated over the 
 past 50 years.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 11/13/2011 5:06 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
  Besides what Bill has contributed to your issue, I had to leave the 2D
  in place and manage to remove all the other screws so that the block
  came off with the side panel.  I then used a traditional pliers to
  undo the block.  So like I said, no way I made it that tight
  originally.  Maybe it's an Elecraft feature...self-tightening screws?
  LOL
 
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
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 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


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