Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
--- On Sun, 8/23/09, DeniseWerner wernerhaschk...@sprintpcs.com wrote: From: DeniseWerner wernerhaschk...@sprintpcs.com Subject: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug To: Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Sunday, August 23, 2009, 5:15 PM Hello group Was wondering if anyone had the same experience as I have. Got a Vibroplex Classic a few months ago and took quite awhile to get the adjustments right and it is sounding very decent on the K3. No secondary dit chirp, contacts clean and all is good. I then put it on the K2 and all those chirpy dits like an intermittent show up and really sound like a lid on the air. Tried the K1 also with same results. Werner, I have similar results between the K3 and K2, although not quite as severe as yours sounds. K3 keying is crisp and clean, K2 often seems to throw in some dits that don't sound complete. I am going to try to make some adjustments and modifications to my bug (1941 Original) as suggested at http://extendadot.com and see if I can improve the K2 bug keying. When using the bug on the K2 I have the key input set to HAND. 73, Sam, N4SAM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
I guess the K3 just likes your bug! First, make sure the contacts are mating squarely. Then measure the continuity when the dot contacts are resting closed. It should be a dead short. If there is any resistance find out where and correct it. Assuming that is okay, how many dits does the bug generate when you thumb the dot paddle? Try adjusting the dot contact spacing so that you don't get more than about 15 maximum. (No, you do not want 20 or 30 or more dits before the contacts finally come to a close.) You can also try wedging a piece of cotton or felt in the U of the dot spring. 73, Drew AF2Z On Sun, 23 Aug 2009 13:15:13 -0400, Werner N8BB wrote: Hello group Was wondering if anyone had the same experience as I have. Got a Vibroplex Classic a few months ago and took quite awhile to get the adjustments right and it is sounding very decent on the K3. No secondary dit chirp, contacts clean and all is good. I then put it on the K2 and all those chirpy dits like an intermittent show up and really sound like a lid on the air. Tried the K1 also with same results. go back to the K3 and all is normal. All I can figure is the keying circuit must need more time/better contact than the K3? Hate to adjust the bug for fear it will be whacked out and take me hours to get it set to the K3 again. Not a show stopper but a ponder. Thanks 73es Werner N8BB __ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
I suspect you're experiencing scratchy or intermittent dits, not chirp. (Chirp is when your frequency shifts up or down during the initial milliseconds after the key closes) As others pointed out, a good low resistance contact is *required* by modern rigs that key a low voltage/low current line, which is a problem with mechanical contacts, especially contacts that just bump with little pressure like the dit contacts on a bug. I've also found the K3 much better at sensing the contact closure than my K2. I have had great success with my bugs on the K2 by keeping the contacts very clean with a drop of Caig deoxit. It removes the dust and oxidation from the contacts that accumulates very quickly and leaves a residue that helps slow new oxidation. I've tried burnishing and wiping and all sorts of stuff that used to work on vacuum tube gear, but the deoxit is by far the best, keeping the contacts clean for weeks at a time. I let a drop sit in the gap for a few minutes, then wipe it with a piece of paper between the contacts as they are held gently together. While the vacuum tube rigs could burn key contacts if too much current passed or they were allowed to spark, properly set up vacuum tube keying circuits actually helped keep the key contacts clean. The current flowing through them helped break down oxidation as fast as it formed. We're missing that with modern rigs. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hello group Was wondering if anyone had the same experience as I have. Got a Vibroplex Classic a few months ago and took quite awhile to get the adjustments right and it is sounding very decent on the K3. No secondary dit chirp, contacts clean and all is good. I then put it on the K2 and all those chirpy dits like an intermittent show up and really sound like a lid on the air. Tried the K1 also with same results. go back to the K3 and all is normal. All I can figure is the keying circuit must need more time/better contact than the K3? Hate to adjust the bug for fear it will be whacked out and take me hours to get it set to the K3 again. Not a show stopper but a ponder. Thanks 73es Werner N8BB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I suspect you're experiencing scratchy or intermittent dits, not chirp. (Chirp is when your frequency shifts up or down during the initial milliseconds after the key closes) As others pointed out, a good low resistance contact is *required* by modern rigs that key a low voltage/low current line, which is a problem with mechanical contacts, especially contacts that just bump with little pressure like the dit contacts on a bug. Deoxit helps, as Ron says. Also intermittent cleaning with a business card. But the real solution for bug keying of modern rigs -- even the K3, which *is* better than the K2 at this -- is a simple circuit composed of a reed relay with a capacitor across the coil to soak up the contact bounce. Here is a description and schematic. You will need to use a fixed-width font to see it properly: Get a radio shack 12 volt SPST reed relay (275-233) or similar. One side of the relay coil goes to the positive terminal of a 9v battery and the other side goes to your bug's ungrounded contacts. In parallel with the coil put a 4.7 to 10uf 25v electrolytic capacitor (also from Radio Shack) and any silicon diode. Orient the capactitor so that the positive side goes to the coil terminal that is connected to the battery. The diode is reverse-connected; its CATHODE goes to the coil terminal that is connected to the battery. Finally, connect the negative side of the battery to the bug's grounded side. If you want to run the circuit from a 12v supply instead of a battery, put an 820 ohm 1/4w resistor in series with the 12v. coil |+@@@+ to bug || | - + +--| (--+ 4.7 to 10 uf capacitor --- - 9v | | |+--|---+ diode |-- /// Here's a photo of such a circuit attached to a bug: http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/Bug640.jpg The value of the capacitor should be the smallest necessary clean up the bounce. The large it is, the more it will stretch the dots and you will have to adjust the dwell time of the dot contact on your bug to compensate. Yes, I have tried various electronic debouncing circuits, and none of them proved as satisfactory to me as this simple one. The relay is almost silent (the slight tick is drowned out by the noise of the bug). -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
Have you tried a bit of foam tucked into the U shape of the dit contact spring? Bob NW8L On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 11:15 AM, DeniseWernerwernerhaschk...@sprintpcs.com wrote: Hello group Was wondering if anyone had the same experience as I have. Got a Vibroplex Classic a few months ago and took quite awhile to get the adjustments right and it is sounding very decent on the K3. No secondary dit chirp, contacts clean and all is good. I then put it on the K2 and all those chirpy dits like an intermittent show up and really sound like a lid on the air. Tried the K1 also with same results. go back to the K3 and all is normal. All I can figure is the keying circuit must need more time/better contact than the K3? Hate to adjust the bug for fear it will be whacked out and take me hours to get it set to the K3 again. Not a show stopper but a ponder. Thanks 73es Werner N8BB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
Deoxit helps, as Ron says. Also intermittent cleaning with a business card. But the real solution for bug keying of modern rigs -- even the K3, which *is* better than the K2 at this -- is a simple circuit composed of a reed relay with a capacitor across the coil to soak up the contact bounce. Another solution is to create a solid-state buffer between the bug key line and the rig. In the past, I've used a Schottky-input gate, driving a 2N7000 transistor to the key line. An off-the-shelf solution, might consist of the microHam PIC-based debouncer, developed by K1EL. It was designed primarily for iambic paddles with dissimilar metal contacts, but it may be possible to adapt it for bug use. W4TV would know for sure. http://www.microham-usa.com/Products/Begali.html Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
All you need is a 1uf capacitor across the bug contacts. Radio Shack has some that are small enough to fit in an RCA plug! Actually .5 UF is enough so I have 2 ea. 1UF in series. These eliminate the mushy and double dit symptom. Cleaning doesn't always work. Some modern rigs such as the K3 and Omni 7 are overly sensitive to switch noise and the cap will clear it up. Radio Shack PN is: 272-1434 Steve N4LQ n...@carolina.rr.com - Original Message - From: Vic K2VCO v...@rakefet.com To: 'Elecraft List' Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 3:19 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I suspect you're experiencing scratchy or intermittent dits, not chirp. (Chirp is when your frequency shifts up or down during the initial milliseconds after the key closes) As others pointed out, a good low resistance contact is *required* by modern rigs that key a low voltage/low current line, which is a problem with mechanical contacts, especially contacts that just bump with little pressure like the dit contacts on a bug. Deoxit helps, as Ron says. Also intermittent cleaning with a business card. But the real solution for bug keying of modern rigs -- even the K3, which *is* better than the K2 at this -- is a simple circuit composed of a reed relay with a capacitor across the coil to soak up the contact bounce. Here is a description and schematic. You will need to use a fixed-width font to see it properly: Get a radio shack 12 volt SPST reed relay (275-233) or similar. One side of the relay coil goes to the positive terminal of a 9v battery and the other side goes to your bug's ungrounded contacts. In parallel with the coil put a 4.7 to 10uf 25v electrolytic capacitor (also from Radio Shack) and any silicon diode. Orient the capactitor so that the positive side goes to the coil terminal that is connected to the battery. The diode is reverse-connected; its CATHODE goes to the coil terminal that is connected to the battery. Finally, connect the negative side of the battery to the bug's grounded side. If you want to run the circuit from a 12v supply instead of a battery, put an 820 ohm 1/4w resistor in series with the 12v. coil |+@@@+ to bug || | - + +--| (--+ 4.7 to 10 uf capacitor --- - 9v | | |+--|---+ diode |-- /// Here's a photo of such a circuit attached to a bug: http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/Bug640.jpg The value of the capacitor should be the smallest necessary clean up the bounce. The large it is, the more it will stretch the dots and you will have to adjust the dwell time of the dot contact on your bug to compensate. Yes, I have tried various electronic debouncing circuits, and none of them proved as satisfactory to me as this simple one. The relay is almost silent (the slight tick is drowned out by the noise of the bug). -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
The problem I dealt with is not contact bounce, but contacts that do not make a low enough resistance connection to trigger the logic properly. It sounded like that was Werner's problem too. It's easy to see the contact resistance issue using a scope on the key line. The key voltage simply isn't being pulled down far enough to reliably key the rig unless the contacts are *very* clean, and without adequate current flowing through them to maintain a self-cleaning action, they quickly oxidize again without help - or some other way to key the rig like Vic's clever relay circuit. The K3 is much more forgiving in that respect, but I haven't investigated to see why. IF it works, I'm happy :-) I've never experienced significant contact bounce with a bug. The full weight of the pendulum mechanism is mashing the contacts together as long as the dit interval lasts. The only possible problem can occur on break as the contacts separate, but the U shaped spring will prevent that if it's working correctly. As the pendulum moves away from the stationary dit contact, the spring pushes against the contacts, smoothly holding them together until the spring reaches the end of its travel and the contact moves away. If the spring vibrates at all at the moment of break, it will be moving in the direction to further separate the contacts as they part. By the time the U spring might swing the contact back back toward the stationary dit contact, the pendulum has separated the whole assembly far enough to avoid the contacts touching. Some fellows dampen that U shaped spring so it doesn't move freely. I'd expect them to experience contact bounce since they've defeated the mechanical de-bouncer. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- All you need is a 1uf capacitor across the bug contacts. Radio Shack has some that are small enough to fit in an RCA plug! Actually .5 UF is enough so I have 2 ea. 1UF in series. These eliminate the mushy and double dit symptom. Cleaning doesn't always work. Some modern rigs such as the K3 and Omni 7 are overly sensitive to switch noise and the cap will clear it up. Radio Shack PN is: 272-1434 Steve N4LQ n...@carolina.rr.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex Bug
Need to remember that in the days when bugs were king, the typical voltage being keyed was between a cathode(s) and ground (often a couple hundred volts at several hundred ma) or bias voltage (75, 105, 150 volts). Turn off the lights and key the bug keying an 807 rig, and you could see the sparks. Stuff of the time was never designed for 12 volts at 7 ma or the like. Even with the higher voltages and currents had problems with contact bounce and resistance. That was why when keyers started showing up, the sealed mercury-wetted relays surplus from somewhere in the Bell System were all the rage. No contact bounce or contact resistance problems. One could really get tossed across the room by touching the hot' parts of the key. 73, Guy. On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 7:10 PM, Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz wrote: The problem I dealt with is not contact bounce, but contacts that do not make a low enough resistance connection to trigger the logic properly. It sounded like that was Werner's problem too. It's easy to see the contact resistance issue using a scope on the key line. The key voltage simply isn't being pulled down far enough to reliably key the rig unless the contacts are *very* clean, and without adequate current flowing through them to maintain a self-cleaning action, they quickly oxidize again without help - or some other way to key the rig like Vic's __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
Guys, Gert, PA3GUF makes handmade bugs. Wanna see the Blue GUF Racer? A GUF speed X bug? A camelback key? Or an admirality key? All handmade. Watch the slideshow on his site. I have tried out many of his bugs and I love them. www.pa3guf.nl Enjoy 73 Arie PA3A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
These are kind of neat: http://www.extendadot.com/ Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
- Original Message - From: Charles Allison To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 8:20 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug Chris, My wife got the bug bug, the straight key bug, the iambic key bug... fairly recently too. She is a dedicated but fairly slow cw operator as well and keeps a 1960 vintage vibroplex, a blackwidow iambic and a modern russian knockoff of the world war II Junkers german key all tied to her K2 at the same time. She's also got 3 or 4 more bugs, mostly Vibroplex. One can buy weights for the Vibroplex to slow it down and I think she's got 2 weights on her regular key. One of the keys had a 4-40 screw hole tapped in the side of the weight. It was explained that this used to be done by some operators that installed a copper tube, squashed and drilled, to provide an extra weight as a lever that could be used to immediately change speeds by pushing the top outward or inward - without having to loosen the weight screw, position the weight and then tightening the weight screw down again. best regards, Charles wb5izd Message: 1 Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 18:08:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I got the bug bug about a year ago, and found a 1923 Vibroplex in decent shape. Yeah, the dot rate is way too fast to learn with. After exploring many options for slowing it, I went to a local hobby shop and got a bit of brass tubing that has an ID that is a slip fit over the rod. About 6 did it for me - slows the dots right down and still allows me to do some adjusting. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
Don't feel bad Fred. It's such a problem for me I avoid keyers now. I considered Arnie's option because, being nominally a leftie as a child I learned the straight key left handed then learned the bug right handed (ambidextrousness is a bonus at times). I never had any confusion with muscle memory between the two types of keys that way. I learned a keyer right handed too, and had grown quite proficient using Iambic or squeeze keying and loved it, but those darn bug paddles don't do anything useful when you squeeze them. When I do use a keyer these days (e.g. my KX1 in the field) I use it like a 'bug', tapping the dash lever for each dash, etc. Not an ideal solution, but it helps avoid my reverting to keyer muscle memory and 'forgetting' how to use a bug again. For me, that happens very quickly. If I let myself, it only takes a few minutes to be whizzing along with an Iambic keyer again, then it takes hours to regain some semblance of decent timing on the bug. That's not too surprising. A keyer requires but the most rudimentary sort of timing compared to a bug. That's one of the keyer's attractive features. Years ago I suggested a bug mode in the Elecraft keyers in which they would simply produce the outputs a bug does: key down as along as the dash paddle is closed and a string of dots at the speed set when the dot paddle is closed. It never happened. I suppose there aren't enough of us bug-oriented masochistic curmudgeons around to make it worthwhile ;-) Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Fred, I had the same problem 30 yrs ago. Ended up working the keyer with my left hand and the vibroplex with my right. Instant switching is possible without any mistake. Hope this helps. 73 Arie PA3A -- I try to use it on SKN, but it's a chore. Switching between a bug and keyer is harder than one might think. 73, Fred K6DGW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: When I do use a keyer these days (e.g. my KX1 in the field) I use it like a 'bug', tapping the dash lever for each dash, etc. Not an ideal solution, but it helps avoid my reverting to keyer muscle memory and 'forgetting' how to use a bug again. For me, that happens very quickly. If I let myself, it only takes a few minutes to be whizzing along with an Iambic keyer again, then it takes hours to regain some semblance of decent timing on the bug. I've found that squeeze keying is different enough from side-to-side bug operation that only a small amount of practice is needed to get the ability to use the bug back. This was not the case when I used to use a single-lever paddle. Years ago I suggested a bug mode in the Elecraft keyers in which they would simply produce the outputs a bug does: key down as along as the dash paddle is closed and a string of dots at the speed set when the dot paddle is closed. It never happened. I suppose there aren't enough of us bug-oriented masochistic curmudgeons around to make it worthwhile ;-) I've tried such things and they never work because (at least for me) the tactile feedback from the momentum of the bug weight is important to my timing. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
One thing about Vibroplex: they never figured out how to make a weight!! Their weights are small in diameter. That means they essentially make the pendulum thicker! That doesn't work worth a darn. My Vibroplex will drop to about 23 WPM with THREE Vibroplex weights loading up the pendulum. It'll drop to about 17 WPM with ONE E.F. Johnson Speed-X weight on the pendulum. The difference is that the Johnson weight is much larger in diameter, so the effective position of the weight is nearer the end of the pendulum. As we discussed earlier, simply making the pendulum slightly longer, as many have done with clips, weights, bits of tubing, etc., has had better effect than adding a row of Vibroplex weights. Maybe that's why we have the digital revolution. The Elecraft rigs shift speed regardless of the paddles. Too bad for Vibroplex. I was always a fan of Les Logan who invented the famous Speed-X bug anyway. To me, he was sort of the Elecraft of the 1930's bug business: superior product at a superior price. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Chris, My wife got the bug bug, the straight key bug, the iambic key bug... fairly recently too. She is a dedicated but fairly slow cw operator as well and keeps a 1960 vintage vibroplex, a blackwidow iambic and a modern russian knockoff of the world war II Junkers german key all tied to her K2 at the same time. She's also got 3 or 4 more bugs, mostly Vibroplex. One can buy weights for the Vibroplex to slow it down and I think she's got 2 weights on her regular key. One of the keys had a 4-40 screw hole tapped in the side of the weight. It was explained that this used to be done by some operators that installed a copper tube, squashed and drilled, to provide an extra weight as a lever that could be used to immediately change speeds by pushing the top outward or inward - without having to loosen the weight screw, position the weight and then tightening the weight screw down again. best regards, Charles wb5izd ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
A normal bug of any manufacture uses the thumb for dits and finger for dahs, just like you do now. Some lefties learned to use a normal bug backwards and some lefties bought special left-handed bugs so they could make dits with their thumb and dahs with their finger just like right-handed operators on normal bugs. With the action of paddles being easily reversible in most newer rigs, I've seen more new operators learning their paddles backwards. I guess it's all what one is used to. I used bugs for 20 years, then switched to paddles/keyer for 25 years before going back to a bug almost ten years ago. The big challenge I faced going back to a bug was learning to do my own spacing and making my own dahs again. I had gotten used to using a paddle as a simple input device for the keyer, telling it that I wanted a dit or dah next, and how many. The keyer logic took care of providing the proper spacing and lengths of dits and dahs for the speed I was using. A bug does none of that. A bug ONLY provides dits, and you must adjust the pendulum weight for the proper speed of the dits and the contact gap for the proper length of each dit when you change speed. While sending in real time, the operator is responsible for making the right length dahs, setting the right spacing between dahs, dahs and dits, and between letters and words. Learning to do that properly in real time at whatever speed I wanted to use was the real challenge of returning to a bug. Some ops say they can do it in a flash. It took me weeks of practicing off the air, and I still do sending practice regularly (send a page out of the phone book, with numbers and addresses, then listen to it the next day to see if I like the fist). Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi I presently own an Elecraft hex key and a speedex straight key, but have been thinking about buying a vibroplex bug to use in contest that don't allow electronic keyers. It's been 30 yrs since I have used a Vibroplex bug and was wondering which way it operates. Do you send the dits with the thumb and the dahs with the index finger? Or is it the reverse? I've been sending the dits with my thumb and the dahs with the index finger too long to try doing the oppsite. Even using a straight key tends to mess me up with the keyer. Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
At 12:00 PM 26/07/07, you wrote: Do you send the dits with the thumb and the dahs with the index finger? Yes. John k7up ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
I think if I were to buy a new bug today (I've thought about it), I'd get a VIZ bug rather than a Vibroplex. I believe the VIZ to be a bit better built and I hear they are more easily used at the slower speeds (15-20 wpm). What contest doesn't allow keyers? Maybe the SKCC sprints? - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- ... but have been thinking about buying a vibroplex bug to use in contest that don't allow electronic keyers. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
On Jul 26, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Ken W5HYN wrote: FYI, Vibroplex offers an extension arm (called Vari-speed) to slow down their bugs and it makes fine tuning speed easy. I put one on my old Lightning Bug and it will slow down to below 15 wpm. I bought my first bug 55 years ago as a 5 WPM novice. That arm wasn't available then, so I drilled a hole in a piece of steel and attached it to the top of the weight with a longer screw. Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
At 02:54 PM 26/07/07, you wrote: -Original Message- On Jul 26, 2007, at 12:51 PM, Ken W5HYN wrote: FYI, Vibroplex offers an extension arm (called Vari-speed) to slow down their bugs and it makes fine tuning speed easy. I put one on my old Lightning Bug and it will slow down to below 15 wpm. I bought my first bug 55 years ago as a 5 WPM novice. That arm wasn't available then, so I drilled a hole in a piece of steel and attached it to the top of the weight with a longer screw. Bob, N7XY -- Clothespins and (my favorite) large alligator clips hung onto the pendulum have done such duty too. Position them so they don't interfere with the damper action. I wrapped solder around the weight, that worked. John k7up ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
I used to stick a blob of plumbers putty on mine so the kids could practice their CW at first. Al WA6VNN ** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
I got the bug bug about a year ago, and found a 1923 Vibroplex in decent shape. Yeah, the dot rate is way too fast to learn with. After exploring many options for slowing it, I went to a local hobby shop and got a bit of brass tubing that has an ID that is a slip fit over the rod. About 6 did it for me - slows the dots right down and still allows me to do some adjusting. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] vibroplex bug
Fred, I had the same problem 30 yrs ago. Ended up working the keyer with my left hand and the vibroplex with my right. Instant switching is possible without any mistake. Hope this helps. 73 Arie PA3A -- I try to use it on SKN, but it's a chore. Switching between a bug and keyer is harder than one might think. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7 - www.cqp.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
