Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Erik Friesen
Thanks for those ideas.  I really would like black buttons with white
lettering, but the only way to get translucent buttons is in white.  I
guess I could consider reversing it, and infilling the engraving.

My initial experiments didn't work well doing infilling, so I did one using
a black auto primer and engraved the button, which worked well.

Really the right way to do this would be to get a silicon keypad made, but
for a one off project that is unworkable.


On Fri, Dec 7, 2012 at 11:20 PM, dave dengv...@charter.net wrote:

 On Fri, 2012-12-07 at 22:44 -0500, Bruce Layne wrote:
  I reverse laser engrave legend plates, device labels, operator panels
  and sometimes prototype membrane switches.  I've also done front surface
  engraving.  I assume that's what you're doing on these switches.  The
  big problem with that is that fingers activating the switches will erode
  the paint from a front engraving.
 
  If you're stuck with front surface engraving, then I'd engrave deeply
  and use a lot of paint, or several layers of paint and several layers of
  clear coat on top.  Another trick that can work well is to use a liquid
  paint instead of a rattle can of spray paint, fill the deeply engraved
  letters with it rather than using several coats of spray paint, and use
  a solvent to remove the excess paint from the top surface of the key
  cap.  Make sure the solvent is compatible with the key cap plastic.  Or,
  let the paint dry thoroughly and mechanically remove it from the top of
  the key cap so it only remains in the engraved letters.  Fine sandpaper
  or ScotchBrite works well for this.  If you want a glossy surface
  instead of the brushed finish you'd get with unidirectional sanding or
  the matte finish you'd get from random sanding, you can finish with 600
  grit paper and then Micromesh or Abralon (1200-1500 grit foam backed
  ultra-fine sandpaper).
 
  I have an EFD-1500 electronic fluid dispenser that I've used with a very
  fine gauge needle on the syringe to dispense paint into engraving.  It
  helps to use a lighted magnifier, have a steady rest for your hand, and
  go easy on the caffeine for this delicate operation, but the paint wicks
  well and fills the engraved letters with no mess on the unengraved top.
  Model paint from a hobby shop might work well for this.  Fingernail
  polish might work too.
 
  For engraving jobs with large and simple fonts, there are paint sticks
  that look somewhat like felt tip markers.  They dispense paint instead
  of ink, so they fill the engraving well and the paint is fairly opaque.
 
  You might have some luck putting tape over the top surface, engraving
  it, spray painting it, allow the paint to dry and then remove the tape
  which served as a spray shield.  This would probably work a lot better
  for laser engraving rather than rotary engraving with a small cutting
 bit.
 
  There is typically better coverage with a good brand of paint like the
  Krylon that you're using because there is apparently more pigment in the
  paint, and the solvent in the better brands of paint seems less likely
  to orange peel when applied to plastic than the 99 cent el-cheapo
  paint.  I used some black spray paint recently from a major
  manufacturer, probably purchased at Lowe's, that advertised twice the
  coverage.  It was marketed as something like ultra coverage or ultra
  coat.  That might help your translucency problem.
 
  I hope you bought extra buttons for a little trial and error.  This
  one-off prototype stuff usually involves some waste.
 
  I recently got in a hurry and accidentally had the laser cut about half
  an inch off the edge of the $32 ultra scratch resistant polycarbonate
  sheet that I was reverse engraving for the top of the tool rack for my
  soon-to-be-CNC milling machine.  Then I decided to try to front surface
  engrave the HDPE substrate even though I knew that was unlikely.  Sure
  enough, the material didn't engrave well and required five passes to get
  the engraving depth I wanted.  Then the paint wouldn't stick to the waxy
  surface, chipped and flaked out, and looked awful.  I bought another $32
  sheet of polycarbonate and laser engraved it the night before last,
  painted it yesterday, and I'm going to epoxy it to the HDPE substrate.
  Hopefully the two square feet of surface area will provide a strong
  enough epoxy bond, even on the HDPE.  If not, I'll use countersunk flat
  head screws... or I'll use PVC for the 3/4 thick substrate.  I'll test
  the bond strength with the botched piece of polycarbonate and a scrap of
  HDPE first.  I don't want to buy a third sheet of $32 plastic!  Oh, the
  joys of prototypes and one-off custom work.
 
  Good luck!

 Just a random thought ... front engrave decently deep and then fill with
 colored epoxy and polish flush. This implies that you have clear buttons
 tho.

 May the force be with you.

 Dave
 
 
 
  On 12/07/2012 08:25 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
   I painted some of these
   

Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Mark Wendt
On Sat, Dec 8, 2012 at 8:31 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:
 Thanks for those ideas.  I really would like black buttons with white
 lettering, but the only way to get translucent buttons is in white.  I
 guess I could consider reversing it, and infilling the engraving.

 My initial experiments didn't work well doing infilling, so I did one using
 a black auto primer and engraved the button, which worked well.

 Really the right way to do this would be to get a silicon keypad made, but
 for a one off project that is unworkable.

Erik,

Is there any way you can get already coated black buttons that are
translucent underneath the finish and then engrave them?  Would save
the step of trying to paint them and the finish that comes on them
would probably be more durable.

Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Erik Friesen
I doubt it.  Some companies won't talk to you unless you are willing to
spend $50k, the next may want $1k, its a gamble.  They do put an stl of the
button on their website, I guess if I had a two color 3d printer I could do
it that way?


On Sat, Dec 8, 2012 at 8:36 AM, Mark Wendt wendt.m...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Sat, Dec 8, 2012 at 8:31 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:
  Thanks for those ideas.  I really would like black buttons with white
  lettering, but the only way to get translucent buttons is in white.  I
  guess I could consider reversing it, and infilling the engraving.
 
  My initial experiments didn't work well doing infilling, so I did one
 using
  a black auto primer and engraved the button, which worked well.
 
  Really the right way to do this would be to get a silicon keypad made,
 but
  for a one off project that is unworkable.

 Erik,

 Is there any way you can get already coated black buttons that are
 translucent underneath the finish and then engrave them?  Would save
 the step of trying to paint them and the finish that comes on them
 would probably be more durable.

 Mark


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Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Mark Wendt
On Sat, Dec 8, 2012 at 8:48 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:
 I doubt it.  Some companies won't talk to you unless you are willing to
 spend $50k, the next may want $1k, its a gamble.  They do put an stl of the
 button on their website, I guess if I had a two color 3d printer I could do
 it that way?

Ah, ok, so all the buttons out there are black all the way through?
Wasn't sure if they made buttons like that or not, but it would be
handy if they did, eh?

Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 8 December 2012 03:13, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 Setting a trip point in the hal file, and a hystersis value there too, I
 have only been feeding comp.0.in1 and using the out as motion enable.

That is sort-of OK, though that assumes that an unlinked pin is zero.
I assume you are setting the sensitivity with the hyst parameter?

The near component might work better, enabling motion while error is
near zero.

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Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Bruce Layne

On 12/08/2012 08:31 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:

 Really the right way to do this would be to get a silicon keypad made, but
 for a one off project that is unworkable.

It sounds like you've already gone through a lot of trouble on this, 
which is typical for a one off project.  For all of your effort, you may 
be able to make a silicone rubber keypad overlay.

Have you seen the Jog It! control pendant on KickStarter?  It has a 
prototype silicone keypad.  Apparently his handmade prototype yellowed a 
bit after a year, but it's still very workable.  Or, you could keep the 
mold and cast another silicone overlay if the yellowing bothered you.

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1651082654/jog-it-open-source-controller-pendant-for-emc2-and

Jerome seems like an approachable hacker who would probably get you 
pointed in the right direction on casting silicone rubber.

Google also seems to know a lot about this topic.  You could probably 
find a material that didn't yellow.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+cast+silicone+rubber




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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 12:51:07 andy pugh did opine:

 On 8 December 2012 03:13, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  Setting a trip point in the hal file, and a hystersis value there too,
  I have only been feeding comp.0.in1 and using the out as motion
  enable.
 
 That is sort-of OK, though that assumes that an unlinked pin is zero.
 I assume you are setting the sensitivity with the hyst parameter?
 
 The near component might work better, enabling motion while error is
 near zero.

Thanks Andy, I'll take a look at that. (calls up very simple man page) Yes, 
that does look as if it could be useful.  Can the scale parameter be used 
as a pin?  With the intention of giving it a larger 'near'=true output at 
the higher speeds?

One of the problems I've seen occasionally with the previous setup I ran 
most of last summer, was that the trip was bidirectional, and if the 
spindle was turning at a good rate when the stop button was hit, the error 
developed because of the perceived spindle over-speed, usually tripped the 
the thing too, a minor pita.  I never got around to putting in an error had 
to be positive only logic block.  Sort of a duh at the time, but I was 
making 209 nipples for one of my BP rifles and having fun at the time. :)

Cheers, Gene
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[Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
Greetings;

Is this an oversight, or just considered as too big for a man page?

Cheers, Gene
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[Emc-users] Another gotcha

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
Greetings;

IMO the near module needs its input pins renamed in base0, having modules 
pin numbers in both base1 and base0 is confusing.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Jon Elson
Bruce Layne wrote:
 If you're stuck with front surface engraving, then I'd engrave deeply 
 and use a lot of paint, or several layers of paint and several layers of 
 clear coat on top.  Another trick that can work well is to use a liquid 
 paint instead of a rattle can of spray paint, fill the deeply engraved 
 letters with it rather than using several coats of spray paint, and use 
 a solvent to remove the excess paint from the top surface of the key 
 cap.
I did this once to repair a button.  i filled the letters all the way, 
and then sanded the
excess paint off.  it worked very well.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Anders Wallin
 Is this an oversight, or just considered as too big for a man page?


hal by itself is not a command you would execute from the terminal.
man hal otoh gives a general description of hal.
so this is roughly OK I would say.

halscope would be an example of a command that doesn't have a man-page
afaik.

AW
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Re: [Emc-users] Button paint and engraving

2012-12-08 Thread Erik Friesen
I don't see an easy way to make multicolored silicon rubber buttons, though.

I shouldn't even open my mind to doing silicon, its one of those things
that is tempting though.

I guess I could try making my own buttons with translucent black acrylic.
I am stuck using something that will fit on top of the matching switch. -
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/4FTH982/679-2255-ND/2034811 , as I
am $850 into 1 4-layer, and 2 2 layer boards, already.


On Sat, Dec 8, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Jon Elson el...@pico-systems.com wrote:

 Bruce Layne wrote:
  If you're stuck with front surface engraving, then I'd engrave deeply
  and use a lot of paint, or several layers of paint and several layers of
  clear coat on top.  Another trick that can work well is to use a liquid
  paint instead of a rattle can of spray paint, fill the deeply engraved
  letters with it rather than using several coats of spray paint, and use
  a solvent to remove the excess paint from the top surface of the key
  cap.
 I did this once to repair a button.  i filled the letters all the way,
 and then sanded the
 excess paint off.  it worked very well.

 Jon


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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 16:11:14 Anders Wallin did opine:

  Is this an oversight, or just considered as too big for a man page?
 
 hal by itself is not a command you would execute from the terminal.
 man hal otoh gives a general description of hal.

On your machines, but not on mine, and I do have the docs package 
installed.
Example:
gene@lathe:~/linuxcnc/configs/my-lathe$ man hal
No manual entry for hal

 so this is roughly OK I would say.
 
 halscope would be an example of a command that doesn't have a man-page
 afaik.
 
That in essence doesn't need much of a man page, its pretty intuitive.

What we need is a short man page that describes the syntax of the various 
first word of a line settings, loadrt, addf, setp, net, etc.  My machines 
have no such help file, so I have to go find the loose leaf binder that has 
what probably is dated content since I have not printed it in at least a 
year, and look it up.  But then I only have perhaps 3 or 4 copies laying 
around, but which is the most recent?  The title page may give the document 
version, but doesn't say clearly what version of linuxcnc it applies to.  
This at some point, needs to be gotten on the same page so I know when 
its time to walk over to the trash can and clean out that particular 3 ring 
binder.

I guess I'm in rant mode today, but such roadblocks that disturb ones train 
of thought really do need a bit of demolition.  ;-)

Thanks Anders.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Kent A. Reed
On 12/8/2012 4:25 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Saturday 08 December 2012 16:11:14 Anders Wallin did opine:

 Is this an oversight, or just considered as too big for a man page?
 hal by itself is not a command you would execute from the terminal.
 man hal otoh gives a general description of hal.
 On your machines, but not on mine, and I do have the docs package
 installed.
 Example:
 gene@lathe:~/linuxcnc/configs/my-lathe$ man hal
 No manual entry for hal

Be specific to be terrific! What revs of LinuxCNC are you two running? 
You may just be seeing differences in the docs included in some released 
version vs those in the master branch, for example.

Regards,
Kent


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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 17:00:37 Kent A. Reed did opine:

 On 12/8/2012 4:25 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  On Saturday 08 December 2012 16:11:14 Anders Wallin did opine:
  Is this an oversight, or just considered as too big for a man page?
  
  hal by itself is not a command you would execute from the terminal.
  man hal otoh gives a general description of hal.
  
  On your machines, but not on mine, and I do have the docs package
  installed.
  Example:
  gene@lathe:~/linuxcnc/configs/my-lathe$ man hal
  No manual entry for hal
 
 Be specific to be terrific! What revs of LinuxCNC are you two running?

2.5.1-132+somehash number

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
On 12/08/2012 02:25 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
 What we need is a short man page that describes the syntax of the various
 first word of a line settings, loadrt, addf, setp, net, etc.

This may not be intuitive or obvious, but loadrt, net, and friends are 
all handled by a command called halcmd, which does have a manpage.


-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 8 December 2012 18:06, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 One of the problems I've seen occasionally with the previous setup I ran
 most of last summer, was that the trip was bidirectional, and if the
 spindle was turning at a good rate when the stop button was hit, the error
 developed because of the perceived spindle over-speed, usually tripped the
 the thing too, a minor pita.

Well, in that case you probably want to use comp as you already are.
That's unidirectional.

But you are saying that you want to have the trip threshold
proportional to speed.
The way to do that is probably to pass spindle speed feedback into
sum2 (noting that sum2 has gain and offset, so you can
play games like sum2 spindle-speed and spindle speed * -0.1 to have
90% of spindle speed on the output. )

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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 18:04:26 Sebastian Kuzminsky did opine:

 On 12/08/2012 02:25 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  What we need is a short man page that describes the syntax of the
  various first word of a line settings, loadrt, addf, setp, net,
  etc.
 
 This may not be intuitive or obvious,

40 rogers on that!

 but loadrt, net, and friends are
 all handled by a command called halcmd, which does have a manpage.

That is pretty much what I was looking for, Thanks Sebastion.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 18:16:35 andy pugh did opine:

 On 8 December 2012 18:06, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  One of the problems I've seen occasionally with the previous setup I
  ran most of last summer, was that the trip was bidirectional, and if
  the spindle was turning at a good rate when the stop button was hit,
  the error developed because of the perceived spindle over-speed,
  usually tripped the the thing too, a minor pita.
 
 Well, in that case you probably want to use comp as you already are.
 That's unidirectional.
 
 But you are saying that you want to have the trip threshold
 proportional to speed.
 The way to do that is probably to pass spindle speed feedback into
 sum2 (noting that sum2 has gain and offset, so you can
 play games like sum2 spindle-speed and spindle speed * -0.1 to have
 90% of spindle speed on the output. )

Printed FFR.

This is something I will try, Andy, if I don't seem to get the results I 
want by parameter adjustments.  I've been hiding inside, logged into it, 
and playing with my-lathe.hal most of the afternoon, and currently have a 
huge lowpass between the requested spindle-speed from Axis, needed so it 
doesn't clear the fuse with a huge 0-400 revs change the gcode might issue, 
with lowpass0.out feeding both pid.0.command and near.0.in1. and near.0.in2 
connected to encoder.0.velocity - lowpass.1.in, gain .2 for a bit of noise 
filtering and lowpass.1.out - near.0.in2.  But it hasn't been in person 
live tested yet.  I could work on this a bit more intelligently if I 
drilled out a 5x20 fuse and the holder cap to put an AC-DC ammeter I 
cobbled up years ago for the mills spindle, into this circuit so I had a 
better clue as to how hard the motor was actually working.

Thanks Andy.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene is up!
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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 8 December 2012 21:25, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 What we need is a short man page that describes the syntax of the various
 first word of a line settings, loadrt, addf, setp, net, etc.

man halcmd.

OK, so you actually have to be psychic to guess that.

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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 8 December 2012 23:33, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

  I could work on this a bit more intelligently if I
 drilled out a 5x20 fuse and the holder cap

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fuses-sockets-circuit-breakers/fuses-pcb/resettable-wire-ended-fuses/

Ordinary domestic MCBs work down to 12V.
http://www.global-download.schneider-electric.com/852575770039EC5E/all/3C7884C29910B3CC852575B7006577BC/$File/multi_9_mcb_application_guide.pdf
page 5.

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Re: [Emc-users] missing man 9 hal

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 18:47:46 andy pugh did opine:

 On 8 December 2012 21:25, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  What we need is a short man page that describes the syntax of the
  various first word of a line settings, loadrt, addf, setp, net,
  etc.
 
 man halcmd.
 
 OK, so you actually have to be psychic to guess that.

Chuckle  a VBG, Andy.

I have in the past, been accused of similar attributes, like walking on 
water, and possibly psychic by those who will never have anything apart and 
spread all over the bench, but that was because I could do that stuff by 
rote, almost in my sleep having already done it many times.  Familiarity 
with some of that stuff leads to wonderment if someone watching has never 
seen it before, when I reach over and pull a part out and warm up the iron 
while taking the last few screws out of a pcb cover, just because I already 
know to a 95% certainty, what part I am going to change before the pcb has 
been pulled  put in a work holder on the bench.  Camera lenses are a 
mystery to most, but I hired an assistant, quite a few years back to do 
some of the repetitive PM tasks, and as I was re-assembling a damaged lens 
from a news camera, he asked me how I could sit so low in that chair  I 
replied huh? and he said how can you sit that low with cajones as 
obviously big as I had to have to do something like that.  To me it was a 
shrug, having done it dozens of times before.

But it does feel nice to be able to impress the frogs so easily. ;-)

I have had a voltmeter probe in one hand since '47, a scope probe largely 
replaced it in '51, and a hot soldering tool in the other since late '47, 
but now the short term memory is going to hell in a hand basket.  So I have 
to print this stuff if I want to re-study it tomorrow while standing in my 
shop in front of the machine in 40F weather.  Sad state of affairs to me, 
and I thank all of you for tolerating it.

Cheers, Gene
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 19:19:02 andy pugh did opine:

 On 8 December 2012 23:33, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
   I could work on this a bit more intelligently if I
  
  drilled out a 5x20 fuse and the holder cap
 
 http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fuses-sockets-circuit-breakers/fuses-pcb/r
 esettable-wire-ended-fuses/
 
Thanks for the leg work Andy, this one looks interesting until you plug in 
the fuses amperage, 3.2 amps, find they only have one device, rated (72 
volts) at half the voltage needed since its in the nominally 127 volt line 
cord path.  How much more one could safely ask the controller for I have no 
clue, but at $135/copy, I don't really want to find it cannot tolerate a 4 
amp fuse.  So I've been blowing (fast blow) the next smaller fuse, a 3.0 
amp.

 Ordinary domestic MCBs work down to 12V.
 http://www.global-download.schneider-electric.com/852575770039EC5E/all/3
 C7884C29910B3CC852575B7006577BC/$File/multi_9_mcb_application_guide.pdf
 page 5.

Physically too big for the box.  Darn it.

Cheers, Gene
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 9 December 2012 00:26, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 Ordinary domestic MCBs work down to 12V.
 http://www.global-download.schneider-electric.com/852575770039EC5E/all/3
 C7884C29910B3CC852575B7006577BC/$File/multi_9_mcb_application_guide.pdf
 page 5.

 Physically too big for the box.  Darn it.

I suspect that there isn't much inside. I have certainly seen rather
smaller ones for older-style distribution boxes.

What is commonly used in the US for domestic circuit-breaking?

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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 9 December 2012 01:06, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 push button reset thermal gizmo's with a tolerance and repeatability that
 are horrifyingly sloppy.

Thermal or thermal/magnetic?

An MCB ought to be able to do the job, even if you dismantle it to
make the useful parts fit (though they normally include things like a
chimney and an arc-extinguisher)

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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread andy pugh
On 9 December 2012 01:12, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:

 An MCB ought to be able to do the job, even if you dismantle it to
 make the useful parts fit (though they normally include things like a
 chimney and an arc-extinguisher)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Circuitbreaker.jpg

Seems to have both a long-term overload (bimetallic strip) and a short
term (solenoid) breaker.


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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 20:19:14 andy pugh did opine:

 On 9 December 2012 01:06, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
  push button reset thermal gizmo's with a tolerance and repeatability
  that are horrifyingly sloppy.
 
 Thermal or thermal/magnetic?
 
My guess is pure thermal, heavily overloaded response times are still in 
the hundreds of milliseconds.

 An MCB ought to be able to do the job, even if you dismantle it to
 make the useful parts fit (though they normally include things like a
 chimney and an arc-extinguisher)

Both should be a 100% requirement.  Having seen the fire rolling across the 
floor from a GE AK-225 interrupting a 400 amp/phase 230 delta circuit when 
I tested it without the arc quenchers mounted, was, shall we say, 
educational.  Those arc quencher cages actually work!  ;-)

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
My web page: http://coyoteden.dyndns-free.com:85/gene is up!
BOFH excuse #11:

magnetic interference from money/credit cards
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 20:25:47 andy pugh did opine:

 On 9 December 2012 01:12, andy pugh bodge...@gmail.com wrote:
  An MCB ought to be able to do the job, even if you dismantle it to
  make the useful parts fit (though they normally include things like a
  chimney and an arc-extinguisher)
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Circuitbreaker.jpg
 
 Seems to have both a long-term overload (bimetallic strip) and a short
 term (solenoid) breaker.

Breakers like that internally, but fitting our usual Square-D service 
panel, are about $30 USD at Lowes.  I don't believe there is a gross 
difference in the size though.  But those will have clips to straddle the 
bus-bar, and only a screw terminal on the output side. And they start at 10 
amps IIRC.  Without the magnetic, about 8 or 9 USD.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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had to use hammer to free stuck disk drive heads.
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Jon Elson
Gene,

You can get aircraft breakers, designed for 32 V DC, and some are
quite small.  They have push/pull kinds that pop out when tripped,
and bat handle types used as on/off switches, too.  New can be
expensive, but they may be available on the surplus market.
I have a few.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 08 December 2012 23:49:28 Jon Elson did opine:

 Gene,
 
 You can get aircraft breakers, designed for 32 V DC, and some are
 quite small.  They have push/pull kinds that pop out when tripped,
 and bat handle types used as on/off switches, too.  New can be
 expensive, but they may be available on the surplus market.
 I have a few.
 
 Jon

That too might be a possibility, but not until I have explored the options 
for some sort of an excessive pid.error out shutdown that works fast enough 
to save the fuse 90% or more of the time.  My previous lashup using comp 
worked well about 75% of the time.

OTOH, tripping a breaker the first 100 times is generally free. Once the 
breaker has been paid for...  And at this current level, it really should 
last a lot longer than that.

Cheers, Gene
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] My electronic fuse, using the comp(are) module

2012-12-08 Thread dave
On Sat, 2012-12-08 at 23:56 -0500, Gene Heskett wrote:
 On Saturday 08 December 2012 23:49:28 Jon Elson did opine:
 
  Gene,
  
  You can get aircraft breakers, designed for 32 V DC, and some are
  quite small.  They have push/pull kinds that pop out when tripped,
  and bat handle types used as on/off switches, too.  New can be
  expensive, but they may be available on the surplus market.
  I have a few.
  
  Jon
 
 That too might be a possibility, but not until I have explored the options 
 for some sort of an excessive pid.error out shutdown that works fast enough 
 to save the fuse 90% or more of the time.  My previous lashup using comp 
 worked well about 75% of the time.
 
 OTOH, tripping a breaker the first 100 times is generally free. Once the 
 breaker has been paid for...  And at this current level, it really should 
 last a lot longer than that.
 
 Cheers, Gene

Many years ago I was using a Heinemann magnetic breaker in series with
an I^2R fuse to protect a pair of SCR's. On a fault the breaker always
beat the fuse thereby saving rather expensive fuses. 

Dave


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