Re: [Emc-users] hall encoder

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 24 September 2016 21:12:33 Peter C. Wallace wrote:

> > Peter C. Wallace:
> >
> > Do you have a software tool I can use to trace this *$#& BoB pin by
> > pin?. The labeling, and the docs that I was sent, do not have enough
> > info to clue me as to what pin on the 5i25, would correspond to what
> > circuit it feeds.  Many thanks if you do.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > --
> > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > Genes Web page 
>
> I dont have a tool for this but isnt there a parallel port testing
> tool in LinuxCNC that would do a fair job of twiddling output bits
> while monitoring inputs?
>
I think so, for plain parports. I may even have the loopback adapter, but 
that only tests the parport. I need to exercise the BoB itself, send 
something to pin one, and find it with a scope probe, repeat for pin 2 
etc etc.  Ditto for the inputs.  They are there, but NDI what pin they 
are by the time it gets to the 5i25.  Or from the 5i25 to the edge 
connectors on this board.

I suppose I could hack up a hal file that only loaded one encoder, so the 
rest was all gpio, and set up a couple tones, one inverted so I could 
tell which pin was which and go thru that one "axis" at a time. But that 
would make me think, and keep copious notes too.

I'll see what I can do though.  Thanks Peter.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
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Re: [Emc-users] hall encoder

[Peter C. Wallace]

>
> Peter C. Wallace:
>
> Do you have a software tool I can use to trace this *$#& BoB pin by pin?.
> The labeling, and the docs that I was sent, do not have enough info to
> clue me as to what pin on the 5i25, would correspond to what circuit it
> feeds.  Many thanks if you do.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> -- 
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
>


I dont have a tool for this but isnt there a parallel port testing 
tool in LinuxCNC that would do a fair job of twiddling output bits while
monitoring inputs?



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Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

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[Emc-users] Well, cancel THAT encoder index idea

[Gene Heskett]

I put the bracket in, with 3 of the AT-667's in it, and tried to put the 
cover on. Very big mistake, the right front corner bolt boss is 2x 
bigger than it is in the base casting, leaving zero room for the alu 
bracket.  Took cover to mill and as they say in a hot rod shop, bore 
till you find water, which despite watching for nervous paint, I did 
find. 

The upshot was that I pulled the backgear countershaft, took it to the 
vise, knocked the gear shift handle off it with a brass drift, filed off 
the setscrew burrs, put a screwdriver slot in both ends of it, slid the 
bearing and the backgear about 3/32 to the right so I can put the little 
piece of screw for the index pulse on the other face of the gear.  But 
I'll have to make another block of alu to put on the left side of this 
one for the index. Put the handle on while the shaft was turned to 
engage the backgear, used the screwdriver slot to set just a degree 
short of full, rumbling the neighborhood engagement and set the setscrew 
again. It had been set since day one for way too heavy engagement. Runs 
at least 30 db quieter now. Even my ancient ears can put up with that.

So I have a little leak in the cover I'll put some filler in & polish 
smooth.  And a coat of paint.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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[Emc-users] hall encoder

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

Got that pulley made, everything but the flats on the shaft and the 
setscrews installed in the new hub.

So I thought I'd see about making pockets in the alu bracket I carved at 
gear tooth radius. And I think I should have passable quadrature, but 
untested as yet.

First, I need to carve up a piece of PCB at that same curve so I can glue 
it to the side of the bracket & paste the leads down so cable stress 
won't bend leads and short them out. I have the AT-667's glued in but 
didn't use a whole glob of superglue on one sitting in a wider pocket so 
I can bust it loose and adjust the quadrature.

There is not a lot of room on the left side of this bracket, but there is 
some on the right side as its beyond the gear. So I can if there's 
clearance for wire wrap wire to cross the back of the bracket, and to 
the PCB which I'll cut traces in at the curvature of the bracket so I'll 
have the std 5 wire take out to get to normal cable off the end of the 
PCB.  Thats the plan anyway. I need to put the head cover back on to 
make sure theres clearance. I'll lay a string of playdough on it, like 
plastigage. :)

Peter C. Wallace:

Do you have a software tool I can use to trace this *$#& BoB pin by pin?.  
The labeling, and the docs that I was sent, do not have enough info to 
clue me as to what pin on the 5i25, would correspond to what circuit it 
feeds.  Many thanks if you do.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Got "new" PC, some question about setting it up.

[Kenneth Lerman]

Gene said inches per minute. You are saying inches per second.

You are off by a factor of 60.

Ken

On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 11:46 PM, Chris Albertson  wrote:

> Gene,
>
> I think I understand now
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 6:07 PM, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> > On Friday 16 September 2016 12:06:47 Chris Albertson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Lead screw is a 1605, 40 tooth gear on the motor by way of a taperloc hub
> > I made, ditto for the 80 tooth gear on the screw, so the motor is
> > running 2x the speed of the screw.  The motor is running on a 39 volt
> > power supply, with a 2M542 driver set for 16x microstepping. Motor is an
> > 8 wire 432 oz/in, wired in series. I am useing a similar if not
> > identical, direct drive on the smaller x screw, wired parallel. It
> > doesn't move very far, maybe 4" total, but its speed for in and out
> > running a g76 threading routine is way more than enough.
> >
>
> So 200 x 16 x 2 steps per revolution is 6400.
> then 6400 x 5 steps per inch is  3200
> at 60 inches per second you are doing  380,000 steps per second
> or, that is 2.6 microseconds per step.
>
> I am very surprised at the low performance of the opt coupler in the
> breakout board
> unless it was intentional.  The signal might be intentionally low pass
> filtered
> in an attempt to reduce noise.   That would be a reasonable design
> for a breakout board.   The designer never assumed anyone would would
> run steps at 300KHz.
>
> To move 60 IPS coins software I think it looks like I might need a direct
> drive
> using 1/2 steps  for 400 steps per revolution.  But I'd be at only 2,000
> steps per inch
>
> Yes I see the logic in using the FPGA board, plus I've always wanted to
> learn to program
> an FPGA and when not driving a machine tool I'l have one to play with
>
>
> > When asking steppers to run at those speeds, I think 2 things are
> >
>
>
> > demanded:
> > 
> >
> --
>
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 24 September 2016 12:14:01 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 09/24/2016 08:46 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Saturday 24 September 2016 04:35:23 Nicklas Karlsson wrote:
> >> For aluminium I have vague memory there is a non optimal speed
> >> there metal stick the most. Can't however if it was feed rate or
> >> rotational speed of tool.
> >
> > Probably surface speed related. 6061 is fairly soft, but it wasn't
> > sticking to the tool. Cutting long stringers, the tool shank
> > looks like alu now. I started out at 800 revs & a 10 mm hole, but
> > 800, half a mm cut at 100 mm's a minute feed was saying the motor is
> > working a bit, so at 40 mm's I turned it down to 500.  Ideal
> > speed/feed? Idontknow.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>
> 800 RPM?  Way too LOW!  I run up to 1/2" cutters at 2720 RPM
> (highest speed on my ancient Bridgeport).
> Take shallow cuts and keep the feed as fast as you can.
>
> Jon
>
Lets see if my math, and a TI-30XIIS is working. 1/2" bit, circumference 
is pi*d= nominally 4300 SFM.

I'm spinning a 5" 4 jaw on a toy sized lathe, and the workpiece is 43mm's 
in diameter.

43/25.4 to get inches = 1.6929etc * pi *rpms, so its 3.63" per rev, and 
800 revs is then 2900 SFM.  So I should be turning at least 1200-1300 to 
dup that. Right? The question then is what the heck do I do with all 
that curly swarf?  Making the pulley hub, and boring the pulley, (its 
all together and looks like it will work, well aligned now) made at 
least a bushel of gnarly swarf I carried to the bin in sometimes soccer 
ball gobs.  And the lathe is still a mess. I'll have to sweep before its 
clean enough not to clog up the vacuum.

Interesting swarf story to tell this morning. The wire joints for the x 
motor, located where the wire comes out of the cable/chain, so its 
basically on top of the motor, and the cable is connected to the motor 
wires with little grey wire nuts. A lot of the swarf went off the back 
of the toolbox, crossing the area where those nuts are sticking up.

Your are guessing by now where this is going.  At one point it must have 
shorted, and about 4" of that swarf lit up white hot and exploded like a 
fuse, nice attention getting pop. The 2M542 driver protected itself 
well, the motor never missed a step! I either need to put that in a 
small box, or at least fill the back of the nuts with Go-2.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[John Thornton]

If you pull a big enough chip the heat goes with it... too small you 
gall. Flood does help.

JT

On 9/24/2016 1:26 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Saturday 24 September 2016 12:11:34 Jon Elson wrote:
>
>> On 09/24/2016 03:04 AM, john mcintyre wrote:
>>> Good Day All,
>>> Problems with machining sticky material.
>>> I find wd40 or crc penetrating fluid in the pressure pack and use
>>> the fine tube nozzle to direct the spray right onto the cutting tip
>>> .
>>> This is good for all sticky materials as it stops the material (soft
>>> aluminium)   building  up on the cutting edge.
>> The best fix for this is to keep the tool moving along the
>> workpiece.  Don't take a deep cut slowly, take a light cut
>> and keep the feed rate up.  This prevents localized heating
>> of the workpiece material.  Also, I don't use any plain HSS
>> tools, I use M42 or higher Cobalt HSS, which keeps a sharp
>> edge MUCH longer.  For the small stuff, I use 1/8" solid
>> carbide end mills, these work really great.
>>
>> Jon
>>
> And for alu, if the spindle can do it, all the rpms it can muster.
> This reduces the time between the passage of a cutting edge for the oxide
> to form on the freshly cut surface before the next cutting edge comes
> by, as does some spray misted, oxygen free oil (safflower is nice) to
> keep the surface sealed behind the cutting edge as much as possible.
>
> That alu oxide forms behind the cutting edge in free air in about 1
> millisecond, and its the 2nd hardest substance known to man.  And its
> that oxide that eats our tools for lunch.  Even carbide succumbs
> eventually.
>
> For long jobs where the work gets hot? A goodly portion of that heat is
> from the chemical reaction of the alu burning and forming the oxide on
> its freshly cut surface.  Reducing its access to the oxygen in the air,
> or in the water mix you may be using for coolant, will cool the
> workpiece by a considerable amount.
>
> Messy in the shop, but your tooling will thank you by lasting many times
> longer.  You don't need much oil, but you do need enough continuous air
> to feed the mister. If you can see the oil spray, thats way too much.
> An once an hour is enough to make the shop air foggy if not vented
> outside.  Hard to get off your glasses too.
>> --
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>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett


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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 24 September 2016 12:11:34 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 09/24/2016 03:04 AM, john mcintyre wrote:
> > Good Day All,
> > Problems with machining sticky material.
> > I find wd40 or crc penetrating fluid in the pressure pack and use
> > the fine tube nozzle to direct the spray right onto the cutting tip
> > .
> > This is good for all sticky materials as it stops the material (soft
> > aluminium)   building  up on the cutting edge.
>
> The best fix for this is to keep the tool moving along the
> workpiece.  Don't take a deep cut slowly, take a light cut
> and keep the feed rate up.  This prevents localized heating
> of the workpiece material.  Also, I don't use any plain HSS
> tools, I use M42 or higher Cobalt HSS, which keeps a sharp
> edge MUCH longer.  For the small stuff, I use 1/8" solid
> carbide end mills, these work really great.
>
> Jon
>
And for alu, if the spindle can do it, all the rpms it can muster.
This reduces the time between the passage of a cutting edge for the oxide 
to form on the freshly cut surface before the next cutting edge comes 
by, as does some spray misted, oxygen free oil (safflower is nice) to 
keep the surface sealed behind the cutting edge as much as possible. 

That alu oxide forms behind the cutting edge in free air in about 1 
millisecond, and its the 2nd hardest substance known to man.  And its 
that oxide that eats our tools for lunch.  Even carbide succumbs 
eventually.

For long jobs where the work gets hot? A goodly portion of that heat is 
from the chemical reaction of the alu burning and forming the oxide on 
its freshly cut surface.  Reducing its access to the oxygen in the air, 
or in the water mix you may be using for coolant, will cool the 
workpiece by a considerable amount.

Messy in the shop, but your tooling will thank you by lasting many times 
longer.  You don't need much oil, but you do need enough continuous air 
to feed the mister. If you can see the oil spray, thats way too much.  
An once an hour is enough to make the shop air foggy if not vented 
outside.  Hard to get off your glasses too.
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Jon Elson]

On 09/24/2016 08:46 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Saturday 24 September 2016 04:35:23 Nicklas Karlsson wrote:
>
>> For aluminium I have vague memory there is a non optimal speed there
>> metal stick the most. Can't however if it was feed rate or rotational
>> speed of tool.
> Probably surface speed related. 6061 is fairly soft, but it wasn't
> sticking to the tool. Cutting long stringers, the tool shank looks
> like alu now. I started out at 800 revs & a 10 mm hole, but 800, half a
> mm cut at 100 mm's a minute feed was saying the motor is working a bit,
> so at 40 mm's I turned it down to 500.  Ideal speed/feed? Idontknow.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
800 RPM?  Way too LOW!  I run up to 1/2" cutters at 2720 RPM 
(highest speed on my ancient Bridgeport).
Take shallow cuts and keep the feed as fast as you can.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Jon Elson]

On 09/24/2016 03:04 AM, john mcintyre wrote:
> Good Day All,
> Problems with machining sticky material.
> I find wd40 or crc penetrating fluid in the pressure pack and use the fine 
> tube nozzle to direct the
> spray right onto the cutting tip .
> This is good for all sticky materials as it stops the material (soft 
> aluminium)   building  up on the cutting edge.
>
The best fix for this is to keep the tool moving along the 
workpiece.  Don't take a deep cut slowly, take a light cut 
and keep the feed rate up.  This prevents localized heating 
of the workpiece material.  Also, I don't use any plain HSS 
tools, I use M42 or higher Cobalt HSS, which keeps a sharp 
edge MUCH longer.  For the small stuff, I use 1/8" solid 
carbide end mills, these work really great.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC and FHA-25C-xx-E250 with 2-wire encoder

[Peter C. Wallace]

On Sat, 24 Sep 2016, Pavel G. Kasyanenko wrote:

> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2016 19:45:25 +1000
> From: Pavel G. Kasyanenko 
> Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"
> 
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: [Emc-users]  LinuxCNC and FHA-25C-xx-E250 with 2-wire encoder
> 
> Hello!
> Does anyone have any experience of successful connection of 2-wire
> rotary encoder in a reducer harmonic drive FHA-25C-xx-E250 to LinuxCNC?
> The exact name of the model: FHA-25C-100-E250-BCW-SPK0284.
>
> The manual says that I can only use one control unit, which indicated
> same modelunder "ADJ..." label.
> Such models on sale I have not found. I want to use this gear unit under
> the direct control of LinuxCNC.
>
> The manual states that the two-wire model of rotary encoder is a
> "nikon-a absolute encoder".
> And "The Nikon A interface is a serial, half-duplex type that is
> electrically the same as RS-485".
>
> What about the protocol? Is this a closed protocol, or Ican find
> information on it and connect it to LinuxCNC?


Thats the question, its probably not hard to support if you can find the 
protocol documentation

>
> Best regards,
> Pavel
>
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Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 24 September 2016 04:38:18 Erik Christiansen wrote:

> On 24.09.16 18:04, john mcintyre wrote:
> > Machine the boss and hub to a firm slide fit ( stops misalignment in
> > assemble) then use Loctite 680  or similar. prep spay both surfaces
> > with activater  let dry , then  apply Loctite  and assemble ( do not
> > waste time in assembly)
>
> An off-thread question: I haven't used any of the Loctite products
> yet. Do they set rock-solid in the container as soon as you've opened
> them to use one drop? That's what all the hardware-store cyanocrylates
> do, so I buy the cheapest two-tube pack, and try to line up three jobs
> before opening a tube.
>
> Erik
>
No, these are the opposite, curing only when air can't get to them. I 
have some red threadlocker that must be 5 years old, still worked the 
last time I opened it a couple months back.  Red is for stuff you might 
want to dis with an air wrench, green is a much thinner stuff that 
penetrates the smallest cracks. For the X bearing shaft, I needed one of 
the three special nuts I made, at 50 tpi because they will adjust the 
endplay preload, sealed solid because the next nut is a tapered nut, 
squeezing the fingers on the end of the shaft down onto the end of the 
ball screw, giveing a grip that may as well be welded.  That 
threadlockered nut is where the anchoring wrench will hold the shaft 
while I tighten the tapered nut. I've done this 2x before, when I put 
ball screws in the micro-mill. That has worked very well for several 
years.
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 24 September 2016 04:35:23 Nicklas Karlsson wrote:

> For aluminium I have vague memory there is a non optimal speed there
> metal stick the most. Can't however if it was feed rate or rotational
> speed of tool.

Probably surface speed related. 6061 is fairly soft, but it wasn't 
sticking to the tool. Cutting long stringers, the tool shank looks 
like alu now. I started out at 800 revs & a 10 mm hole, but 800, half a 
mm cut at 100 mm's a minute feed was saying the motor is working a bit, 
so at 40 mm's I turned it down to 500.  Ideal speed/feed? Idontknow.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 24 September 2016 04:04:22 john mcintyre wrote:

> Good Day All,
> Problems with machining sticky material.
> I find wd40 or crc penetrating fluid in the pressure pack and use the
> fine tube nozzle to direct the spray right onto the cutting tip .
> This is good for all sticky materials as it stops the material (soft
> aluminium)   building  up on the cutting edge. The cutting edge is
> usually HSS with at least 15 degrees clearance on the cutting edges,
> the cutting  edges have been honed with a fine all oil stone. When
> fitting a boss to a hub, as long as the boss and the hub are the same
> material (same expansion rate) Machine the boss and hub to a firm
> slide fit ( stops misalignment in assemble) then use Loctite 680  or
> similar. prep spay both surfaces with activater  let dry , then  apply
> Loctite  and assemble ( do not waste time in assembly) And if this is
> not enough scotch key them also (belt and braces job)

I thought of that too, making a fit I could spray with activator, tap 
together with a wooden pad for cushion, test the assembled fit, and draw 
a line of green threadlocker at the joint. I've put a seating ledge 
about 20 thou high and it should be in a usable alignment state if 
driven to that ledge. A side advantage is that should it need to be 
taken apart, a soaking at 450F in a toaster oven should allow it to be 
disassembled.  The torque value at that diameter should never disturb 
it, if threadlocker green is soaked into the joint.  So thats what I am 
going to do this morning, boring it another .5mm, test for fit, 
another .05 mm etc. After I freshen the tools edge.  I could hear it 
skidding some yesterday on the backout move. Ultra cheap brazed carbide 
tools, $19/kit of 12 over a decade ago. Had to freshen the edges just to 
cut warm butter. :(

Thanks John.

[...]

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Todd Zuercher]

The stuff will last for years in the bottle after opened.  I have some more 
than 10 yrs old and still seems OK.  Doesn't set until it sees anaerobic 
conditions. 

- Original Message -
From: "Erik Christiansen" 
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2016 4:38:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

On 24.09.16 18:04, john mcintyre wrote:
> Machine the boss and hub to a firm slide fit ( stops misalignment in
> assemble) then use Loctite 680  or similar. prep spay both surfaces
> with activater  let dry , then  apply Loctite  and assemble ( do not
> waste time in assembly)

An off-thread question: I haven't used any of the Loctite products yet.
Do they set rock-solid in the container as soon as you've opened them to
use one drop? That's what all the hardware-store cyanocrylates do, so I
buy the cheapest two-tube pack, and try to line up three jobs before
opening a tube.

Erik

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[Emc-users] LinuxCNC and FHA-25C-xx-E250 with 2-wire encoder

[Pavel G. Kasyanenko]

Hello!
Does anyone have any experience of successful connection of 2-wire 
rotary encoder in a reducer harmonic drive FHA-25C-xx-E250 to LinuxCNC?
The exact name of the model: FHA-25C-100-E250-BCW-SPK0284.

The manual says that I can only use one control unit, which indicated 
same modelunder "ADJ..." label.
Such models on sale I have not found. I want to use this gear unit under 
the direct control of LinuxCNC.

The manual states that the two-wire model of rotary encoder is a 
"nikon-a absolute encoder".
And "The Nikon A interface is a serial, half-duplex type that is 
electrically the same as RS-485".

What about the protocol? Is this a closed protocol, or Ican find 
information on it and connect it to LinuxCNC?

Best regards,
Pavel

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[john mcintyre]

Good Day all,
Loctite 680 and similar products are anaerobic (set with the absence of air)
there shear  strength ranges up to about 3500 lbs per square inch  at up to 180 
degree C
cheers john

 
> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2016 18:38:18 +1000
> From: dva...@internode.on.net
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...
> 
> On 24.09.16 18:04, john mcintyre wrote:
> > Machine the boss and hub to a firm slide fit ( stops misalignment in
> > assemble) then use Loctite 680  or similar. prep spay both surfaces
> > with activater  let dry , then  apply Loctite  and assemble ( do not
> > waste time in assembly)
> 
> An off-thread question: I haven't used any of the Loctite products yet.
> Do they set rock-solid in the container as soon as you've opened them to
> use one drop? That's what all the hardware-store cyanocrylates do, so I
> buy the cheapest two-tube pack, and try to line up three jobs before
> opening a tube.
> 
> Erik
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Erik Christiansen]

On 24.09.16 18:04, john mcintyre wrote:
> Machine the boss and hub to a firm slide fit ( stops misalignment in
> assemble) then use Loctite 680  or similar. prep spay both surfaces
> with activater  let dry , then  apply Loctite  and assemble ( do not
> waste time in assembly)

An off-thread question: I haven't used any of the Loctite products yet.
Do they set rock-solid in the container as soon as you've opened them to
use one drop? That's what all the hardware-store cyanocrylates do, so I
buy the cheapest two-tube pack, and try to line up three jobs before
opening a tube.

Erik

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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[Nicklas Karlsson]

For aluminium I have vague memory there is a non optimal speed there metal 
stick the most. Can't however if it was feed rate or rotational speed of tool.


On Sat, 24 Sep 2016 18:04:22 +1000
john mcintyre  wrote:

> Good Day All,
> Problems with machining sticky material.
> I find wd40 or crc penetrating fluid in the pressure pack and use the fine 
> tube nozzle to direct the 
> spray right onto the cutting tip .
> This is good for all sticky materials as it stops the material (soft 
> aluminium)   building  up on the cutting edge.
> The cutting edge is usually HSS with at least 15 degrees clearance on the 
> cutting edges,
> the cutting  edges have been honed with a fine all oil stone.
> When fitting a boss to a hub, as long as the boss and the hub are the same 
> material (same expansion rate) 
> Machine the boss and hub to a firm slide fit ( stops misalignment in 
> assemble) then use Loctite 680  or similar.
>  prep spay both surfaces with activater  let dry , then  apply Loctite  and 
> assemble ( do not waste time in assembly)
> And if this is not enough scotch key them also (belt and braces job)
> 
>  
> > From: ghesk...@shentel.net
> > To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2016 19:15:18 -0400
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...
> > 
> > On Friday 23 September 2016 15:21:28 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > 
> > > On Friday 23 September 2016 04:34:35 Andy Pugh wrote:
> > > > > On 23 Sep 2016, at 08:02, Gene Heskett 
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > gave up and put a 3/8
> > > > > drill in the holder.  That worked for a starter hole and the bar
> > > > > then ran in and tried to uniform the hole, looking decent
> > > >
> > > > Are you trying to use a boring bar without drilling a starter hole?
> > > > I don't think they are intended for that.
> > >
> > > As I found, but the end of its original tip contour sure looked like
> > > it could do it, and it did, for about 12 mm's., then became a problem
> > > child.  So I drilled a 3/8" start hole, then expended that about a mm
> > > before I gave it up last night. So now I need the hit it a couple more
> > > times to get a hole to calibrate x with and finish that up.
> > >
> > Which I am pretty close to now. The hub is made and fits fairly well, 
> > with an OD where the pulley will be driven onto it of about 43.35 mm's.
> > 
> > And the pulley is bored to about 42.25 mm's when I thought it was past 
> > time to get off my feet.
> > 
> > So my next question , and considering both pieces are alu, is whats the 
> > target for the final bore of the pulley for a good tight press fit?  And 
> > should I heat the pulley and freeze the hub?
> > 
> > Had din-din, beer-thirty now.
> > 
> > 
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > -- 
> > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
> >  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> > -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> > Genes Web page 
> > 
> > --
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
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Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...

[john mcintyre]

Good Day All,
Problems with machining sticky material.
I find wd40 or crc penetrating fluid in the pressure pack and use the fine tube 
nozzle to direct the 
spray right onto the cutting tip .
This is good for all sticky materials as it stops the material (soft aluminium) 
  building  up on the cutting edge.
The cutting edge is usually HSS with at least 15 degrees clearance on the 
cutting edges,
the cutting  edges have been honed with a fine all oil stone.
When fitting a boss to a hub, as long as the boss and the hub are the same 
material (same expansion rate) 
Machine the boss and hub to a firm slide fit ( stops misalignment in assemble) 
then use Loctite 680  or similar.
 prep spay both surfaces with activater  let dry , then  apply Loctite  and 
assemble ( do not waste time in assembly)
And if this is not enough scotch key them also (belt and braces job)

 
> From: ghesk...@shentel.net
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2016 19:15:18 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Anybody have an idea how...
> 
> On Friday 23 September 2016 15:21:28 Gene Heskett wrote:
> 
> > On Friday 23 September 2016 04:34:35 Andy Pugh wrote:
> > > > On 23 Sep 2016, at 08:02, Gene Heskett 
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > gave up and put a 3/8
> > > > drill in the holder.  That worked for a starter hole and the bar
> > > > then ran in and tried to uniform the hole, looking decent
> > >
> > > Are you trying to use a boring bar without drilling a starter hole?
> > > I don't think they are intended for that.
> >
> > As I found, but the end of its original tip contour sure looked like
> > it could do it, and it did, for about 12 mm's., then became a problem
> > child.  So I drilled a 3/8" start hole, then expended that about a mm
> > before I gave it up last night. So now I need the hit it a couple more
> > times to get a hole to calibrate x with and finish that up.
> >
> Which I am pretty close to now. The hub is made and fits fairly well, 
> with an OD where the pulley will be driven onto it of about 43.35 mm's.
> 
> And the pulley is bored to about 42.25 mm's when I thought it was past 
> time to get off my feet.
> 
> So my next question , and considering both pieces are alu, is whats the 
> target for the final bore of the pulley for a good tight press fit?  And 
> should I heat the pulley and freeze the hub?
> 
> Had din-din, beer-thirty now.
> 
> 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> -- 
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> Genes Web page 
> 
> --
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> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
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