Re: reply for bit question
This message is from: Michelle King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi! I also have a wonderful fjord (again, who doesn't?) who goes pretty well in my Dr. Cook Bitless bridle but always liked to reach for the grass. With his super strong neck I had difficulty pulling his head up w/ the bitless bridle or a snaffle (in spite of all my work at pilates--he puts the 17 +h warmbloods that I used to ride to shame w/ his neck strength--or maybe it's his determination). I talked w/ a number of people including dressage trainers and the consistent suggestion I got was to use a gag bit. My neighbor had a happy mouth, unjointed gag that fit him and it works really well. In fact he doesn't even try for the grass any more. When he did he just fought against himself (they are smart and figure things out very quickly!). I know some people may feel this may be too strong but my flat work is done in a field and both Luke and I have a very pleasant experience now (i.e. I can do my work and he does not have me yanking on his mouth ineffectively to avoid the grass--he just doesn't go for it now). You can add a second rein attached to the bit only so that you only use the gag rein if necessary. I have been too lazy to do that yet but now I can ride w/ a very light hand and could probably switch to another happy mouth or use the bitless bridle w/o a problem. BTW--we enjoyed sleighing during the brief period we had snow here in VT. I have been satisfying my winter sleighing urges by having him wear his bells when we go riding. My two year old daughter insists on the bells whenever she is riding--"They sound so pretty Mommy!" --Michelle and Luke in VT Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 1/3/2007 9:45:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions on other bit options? I ride English and am familiar with the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring riding at the moment. Hi Liz- Your choice of bit will depend on what you are doing with Torsten. I enjoy riding in the arena with just a rope halter, and have big notions of riding with just a neck rope eventually. On the trail, I use a western solid mouth curb bit "just in case." Funny, its main use is to keep furry heads out of the grass ;-). I find that my Fjords, especially Rafael, dislike the jointed mouth piece. A solid mouth piece is best, and a 3-part like a french link is OK. How exactly you need control will also help you decide. Does Torsten lean on the bit, not steer well, not stop well, not "give" to the bit? There are different exercises to fix these problems, and potentially different bits. In the snaffle department I prefer large D-rings or a full cheek. Hope this is helpful, / )_~ /L/L Brigid Wasson SF Bay Area, CA www.eponahorsemanship.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: Robin Churchill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I use a Myler snaffle the one that is legal for dressage. Both of my fjords really leaned on a french-link snaffle but do well in the Myler. I had a warmblood mare who would lean on you and we used a Pessoa type snaffle on her. That is the one with the two rings on the sides. I found it to be less than optimal because it wasn't legal for showing. If you use one of those type bits or a double bridle as someone suggested, you have to be careful because they do create leverage and therefore can be harsh if not used properly or if your hands are not quiet. Although I have never used one, I think a twisted wire snaffle is inappropriate for any horse. I think there are lots of much gentler bits that you can try that may work. To avoid spending a fortune, sometimes people will let you borrow one of their bits to try. If the horse takes a 5 1/2 inch bit, e-mail me privately and I would be willing to send you some that I am not using to try and then you could see if any of them work for you. Unfortunately, I have the requisite bit collection that people with horses seem to accumulate but most of them were bought for my warmblood and they are all 5 1/2 inches. Robin in Florida --- Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > This message is from: Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I have a question about finding the proper bit for > my > wonderful fjord, Torsten. He has been ridden in the > past with an eggbutt snaffle, but appears to need > something a little stronger. We have tried various > snaffles, both fixed and loose ring, without much > success. We tried a twisted wire snaffle on him that > seemed to give much better control, but I am a > little > concerned that it might be too much bit for him. I > do > not have heavy hands, but want to use the mildest > bit > on him that will be effective. Someone suggested a > kimberwicke as another alternative. > > My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit > than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions > on > other bit options? I ride English and am familiar > with > the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than > he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring > riding at the moment. > > Liz >(in soggy western Washington) > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: > http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: Sarah Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> One of the best exercises that I have used in getting control over the shoulders is to start on a 20 meter circle and gradually spiral down to a 10 meter circle, then leg yield out to 20 meters again. You may need to use that raised inside rein to block the horse crashing in to the 10 meter circle as soon as they figure out the exercise. but if you do this regularly they will learn to carry themselves. You can do this at both the trot and the canter., but obviously it will be harder at the canter. To help both you and the horse understand the shoulder controlling aids, learning turn on the haunches (since you have to pick up the shoulder and move it around the haunches) at the walk is very helpful. You can then use the turn on the haunches aids to bring the shoulders in or out (just a bit) at the trot. Another trot exercise is to ask the horse to lengthen stride for 5-8 strides, shorten the stride 5-8 strides and repeat this once or twice around the arena. You may wonder why this helps the shoulder? It is because the exercise makes the horse more rear engined and thus not leaning on the shoulders so much. A more advanced exercise would be shoulder-in, first at the trot and eventually at the canter. This message is from: Silja Knoll Speaking of those powerful shoulders.. are there some exercises that you guys can recommend? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: Silja Knoll <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Speaking of those powerful shoulders.. are there some exercises that you guys can recommend? My 5 year old mare is getting entirely too much practice at this and other than raising my inside rein a bit, doing some leg yields I am at a loss. She has improved at the walk, but the trot is less than desirable and so is the canter. I ride her in a D ring snaffle. Once I get my new treeless saddle I will take more lessons from local trainers, but I was just hoping for some ideas from this group if anyone would like to share!? Still enjoying the snow in Colorado! Silja Sarah Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: This message is from: Sarah Clarke Liz, In your exploration of snaffles did you ever use a Mullen mouth? (a non-jointed snaffle, just a slightly curved bar.) It seems milder, but the horse can't avoid the action by pushing it off the tongue as they can the jointed snaffle. Both the kimberwicke and the pelham are combo bits that combine the effect of a straight pull or the leverage effect, but only if you have the reins correct. A kimberwicke is only milder than a pelham due to the ratio between the upper shank and the lower shank. A short pelham is as mild as a kimberwicke. Some people ride with the rein on the kimberwicke " floating" between the positions and then you never know what the effect is. If you use either a pelham or a kimberwicke and mostly use the upper rein it's not very severe, but you have the option of upping the ante if the horse gets strong. Double bridles are great for this reason also. They seem to intimidate people, but are really no harder to use than a pelham. If you are riding in a double bridle and the horse is going well, you can reward him by making the curb bit so slack that you are riding him completely with the snaffle. I don't really like twisted wire bits. They seem primarily for creating pain. If a smooth surface snaffle in all it's variants isn't doing the trick I think a leverage bit is a far kinder option and has the advantage that you can make the effect proportional to the need. One final thing to consider (depending on what the exact reason that you need more control, since you didn't say why you needed a stronger bit) is the use of either a draw rein or running martingale. It gives you a little more leverage and if the horse starts to pull, he's pulling against himself. Downside is you need 2 reins, but the advantage is that the effect is directly proportional to the horses level of resistance. Depending on how you arrange them, draw reins also give you some side to side leverage if your fjord is using those powerful shoulders to block you in turns. Sarah in Jamul, CA (where we are maybe expecting a shower tomorrow, but otherwise sunny.) Liz Rudy wrote: This message is from: Liz Rudy My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions on other bit options? I ride English and am familiar with the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring riding at the moment. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: "Lola Lahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just a thought: the Myler combiantion bit works at the poll, nose, mouth and jaw simultaneously, and so you can communicate with the horse assertively if you need to and still keep a fairly light hand. My gal has a very strong neck (what Fjord horse doesn't??) and this bit works really well without any other tack such as martingales, draw reins or tie-downs. I think it's the "total communication" that does it without nailing her in the mouth :-) On 1/3/07, Sarah Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This message is from: Sarah Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Liz, In your exploration of snaffles did you ever use a Mullen mouth? (a > non-jointed snaffle, just a slightly curved bar.) It seems milder, but the > horse can't avoid the action by pushing it off the tongue as they can the > jointed snaffle. > > Both the kimberwicke and the pelham are combo bits that combine the effect > of a straight pull or the leverage effect, but only if you have the reins > correct. A kimberwicke is only milder than a pelham due to the ratio > between the upper shank and the lower shank. A short pelham is as mild as a > kimberwicke. Some people ride with the rein on the kimberwicke " floating" > between the positions and then you never know what the effect is. If you > use either a pelham or a kimberwicke and mostly use the upper rein it's not > very severe, but you have the option of upping the ante if the horse gets > strong. Double bridles are great for this reason also. They seem to > intimidate people, but are really no harder to use than a pelham. If you > are riding in a double bridle and the horse is going well, you can reward > him by making the curb bit so slack that you are riding him completely with > the snaffle. > > I don't really like twisted wire bits. They seem primarily for creating > pain. If a smooth surface snaffle in all it's variants isn't doing the > trick I think a leverage bit is a far kinder option and has the advantage > that you can make the effect proportional to the need. > > One final thing to consider (depending on what the exact reason that you > need more control, since you didn't say why you needed a stronger bit) is > the use of either a draw rein or running martingale. It gives you a little > more leverage and if the horse starts to pull, he's pulling against > himself. Downside is you need 2 reins, but the advantage is that the effect > is directly proportional to the horses level of resistance. Depending on > how you arrange them, draw reins also give you some side to side leverage if > your fjord is using those powerful shoulders to block you in turns. > > Sarah in Jamul, CA (where we are maybe expecting a shower tomorrow, but > otherwise sunny.) > > Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > This message is from: Liz Rudy > > > My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit > than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions on > other bit options? I ride English and am familiar with > the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than > he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring > riding at the moment. > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: > http://tinyurl.com/rcepw The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: "Lola Lahr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I use a Myler *combination* comfort snaffle (level 1) bit on my mare, who can also go in a Dr. Cook's bitless bridle when she is being ridden consistently. (When she hasn't been ridden for a while, she usually needs to have the "reminder" of the Myler bit just for practice, then I can go back to the Dr. Cook's.) I have very light hands, and I ride English, so this bit might work for you too. I saw this bit on the Action Rider tack site just yesterday. Mine is the one with 2 rings, not the one with 3. I just use the actual bit ring, but you can move the reins down a ring if you need a little more communication. Lola (in soggy, sloshy Western Oregon!) On 1/3/07, Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > This message is from: Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I have a question about finding the proper bit for my > wonderful fjord, Torsten. He has been ridden in the > past with an eggbutt snaffle, but appears to need > something a little stronger. We have tried various > snaffles, both fixed and loose ring, without much > success. We tried a twisted wire snaffle on him that > seemed to give much better control, but I am a little > concerned that it might be too much bit for him. I do > not have heavy hands, but want to use the mildest bit > on him that will be effective. Someone suggested a > kimberwicke as another alternative. > > My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit > than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions on > other bit options? I ride English and am familiar with > the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than > he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring > riding at the moment. > > Liz > (in soggy western Washington) > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: > http://tinyurl.com/rcepw The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Re: Bit question
This message is from: Sarah Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Liz, In your exploration of snaffles did you ever use a Mullen mouth? (a non-jointed snaffle, just a slightly curved bar.) It seems milder, but the horse can't avoid the action by pushing it off the tongue as they can the jointed snaffle. Both the kimberwicke and the pelham are combo bits that combine the effect of a straight pull or the leverage effect, but only if you have the reins correct. A kimberwicke is only milder than a pelham due to the ratio between the upper shank and the lower shank. A short pelham is as mild as a kimberwicke. Some people ride with the rein on the kimberwicke " floating" between the positions and then you never know what the effect is. If you use either a pelham or a kimberwicke and mostly use the upper rein it's not very severe, but you have the option of upping the ante if the horse gets strong. Double bridles are great for this reason also. They seem to intimidate people, but are really no harder to use than a pelham. If you are riding in a double bridle and the horse is going well, you can reward him by making the curb bit so slack that you are riding him completely with the snaffle. I don't really like twisted wire bits. They seem primarily for creating pain. If a smooth surface snaffle in all it's variants isn't doing the trick I think a leverage bit is a far kinder option and has the advantage that you can make the effect proportional to the need. One final thing to consider (depending on what the exact reason that you need more control, since you didn't say why you needed a stronger bit) is the use of either a draw rein or running martingale. It gives you a little more leverage and if the horse starts to pull, he's pulling against himself. Downside is you need 2 reins, but the advantage is that the effect is directly proportional to the horses level of resistance. Depending on how you arrange them, draw reins also give you some side to side leverage if your fjord is using those powerful shoulders to block you in turns. Sarah in Jamul, CA (where we are maybe expecting a shower tomorrow, but otherwise sunny.) Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: This message is from: Liz Rudy My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions on other bit options? I ride English and am familiar with the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring riding at the moment. Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
Bit question
This message is from: Liz Rudy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a question about finding the proper bit for my wonderful fjord, Torsten. He has been ridden in the past with an eggbutt snaffle, but appears to need something a little stronger. We have tried various snaffles, both fixed and loose ring, without much success. We tried a twisted wire snaffle on him that seemed to give much better control, but I am a little concerned that it might be too much bit for him. I do not have heavy hands, but want to use the mildest bit on him that will be effective. Someone suggested a kimberwicke as another alternative. My questions: would a kimberwicke be a "milder" bit than a twisted wire snaffle? Any other suggestions on other bit options? I ride English and am familiar with the pelham, but think that is probably more bit than he needs. Torsten is used exclusive for trail/ring riding at the moment. Liz (in soggy western Washington) Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com The FjordHorse List archives can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/rcepw
bit question & other
This message is from: "Carol J. Makosky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello to all from delicious weather in WI. I can't believe we are having such a cool summer that is good for horse activities, but not our gardens. Don't know if we will ever see any red tomatoes before it frosts. And worse yet, I picked July and Aug. to be off my feet from surgery and so this year we have great driving weather. At least my harness was totaly taken apart and cleaned. Hey, Camptown Dave. What is the secret to getting the metal pieces back onto the browband? To get to the subject. I purchased a bit over ebay and have a question about the mouth piece moving up and down about a quarter inch. It is a mullen mouth Liverpool. So I need an explanation from you experts out there. BTW I am the one who has purchased most of the Fjord items on ebay. On another note, I have found the latest talk of cross breeding and the changes in size and build of the Fjord very fascinating, so am glad that Steve has not cut this off. I think that I mentioned this before. I saw a Fjord/percheron cross that was a beautiful site to see and moved just great. The person said she had another just like it at home, but was not the breeder of such and had bought them. Just my two cents worth. Let's leave the breed alone and leave the breeding to those who have done their homework. It scares me to hear when someone buys a couple and all of a sudden want to raise them cause they are cute when little. I always ask them why and what are they going to do with them? -- Built Fjord Tough Carol M. On Golden Pond N. Wisconsin
Re: bit question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 10/10/2002 5:53:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > A snaffle, to me, is any bit with a direct pull, rather than a > leverage from a shank. Snaffles can have any style mouthpiece, broken, one > piece, two piece, three piece, etc. At least that's what I have been > taught This seems to be one of the biggest confusions in the horse world! Most people tend to think a "snaffle" is any bit with a broken mouthpiece. Like calling a "Tom Thumb" bit a snaffle. A snaffle IS, as you said, any bit with a direct pull - regardless of the mouthpiece. Amy Amy Evers Dun Lookin' Fjords Redmond, OR Fjord [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: bit question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 10/10/2002 1:38:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Just what are you calling a "snaffle"? A KK IS a snaffle, isn't it? > Confusing. A snaffle, to me, is any bit with a direct pull, rather than a > leverage from a shank. Snaffles can have any style mouthpiece, broken, one > piece, two piece, three piece, etc. At least that's what I have been > taught. You are right. I went from a nice eggbutt snaffle to the KK. The metal and the broken piece in the middle made all the difference in the world to her. But it's still a snaffle. And you are also right about borrowing bits till you get the right one. I accidentally found out how well Juniper does with the KK by forgetting to bring her bridle to a lesson! Not one of my brightest moves. My instructor lent me one with the KK, and I was just amazed at the difference in the horse. She's stiff to the right, and with the regular 2 piece snaffle, would grab the bit and tighten her jowl going right. With the KK she softened and went forward in such a beautiful way. Pamela http://hometown.aol.com/northhorse/index.html";>Northern Holiday Horses
Re: bit question
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Same problem with Juniper. She was okay with a snaffle, till I started >studying dressage, and I started learning what I didn't know. That she >really hung on that bit. So we switched to a KK bit (a chunk of change). Hey Pam, Just what are you calling a "snaffle"? A KK IS a snaffle, isn't it? Confusing. A snaffle, to me, is any bit with a direct pull, rather than a leverage from a shank. Snaffles can have any style mouthpiece, broken, one piece, two piece, three piece, etc. At least that's what I have been taught. Now a KK has a three piece mouthpiece, which suits many horses better. The mullen mouth Glory bits, (Butterfly bit or the Glory riding bit) work well with a lot of Fjords. Also spendy. Myler bits, with the shaped mouthpieces work well also..and there are a variety of mouthpieces available. I suggest borrowing several varieties of bits and trying them to see what works best for your horse. Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, where we had our first real snow of the winter..several inches and more to come. Jean Ernest Fairbanks, Alaska mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: bit question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 10/9/2002 4:34:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Any ideas for a bit that would help out. I hate to go and buy any of the > numerous options out there w/o hearing some input and experience. Could > get > costly, :) > Same problem with Juniper. She was okay with a snaffle, till I started studying dressage, and I started learning what I didn't know. That she really hung on that bit. So we switched to a KK bit (a chunk of change). Check this website: http://www.dressage-ext.com/kkbits.htm It's the second bit down that we got for Juniper. And she goes much better in it, light contact and very sweet! :) Pamela http://hometown.aol.com/northhorse/index.html";>Northern Holiday Horses
bit question
This message is from: "Janne Myrdal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Greetings from ND. We are in the process of re-training or re-schooling Heidi, a 12 year old fjord mare who has been a broodmare for several years. She is doing quite well under saddle, but we have not found a bit that seems to do well for her. I generally use a snaffle on most of my horses, occasionally something else, but prefer a simple snaffle. However, with Heidi it seems not to work out well, as she tends to take the bit to much, as well as being quite strong on the bit. There is obviously more to a behaviour than a bit, but any input on this would be appreciated. Any ideas for a bit that would help out. I hate to go and buy any of the numerous options out there w/o hearing some input and experience. Could get costly, :) I guess I have been pretty much spoiled with most of the horses, as they respond well to my current bits. Next week we will hook her up with another mare, and start on driving lessons again. Poor Heidi, she thought life with babies was just good, thank you so much!! Janne in mild ND
Re: another bit question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In a message dated 4/30/01 10:57:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I have and do like them, but I thought they were not legal in dressage? I haven't shown for quite a while and don't have a 2001 rulebook. As far as I knew, anything with a curve or poll pressure was illegal until the curb is introduced at the upper levels. I know there are a few dressage people on the list...any input? Kate in CT owned by Baldur the wonder fjord graduate B pony clubber MysticPonyClub egroups moderator ARIA certified riding instructor Professional Braider
Re: another bit question
This message is from: Jean Ernest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have you checked out the Myler bits? They have a great variety of special mouthpieces which you can have with their pelham cheekpiece or any of their various cheekpieces! I have heard a lot of folks are going to these Myler bits, especially some of the Morgan folks who also have problems with low pallets and thick tongues. There is one mouthpiece with three small barrels in the center which you could have with their pelham cheek. Give them a call at 800-354-3613, or 417-859-7468 Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, another sunny day with over 17 hours daylight! >This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Hello List! > >I have a bit question too. > > Jean Ernest Fairbanks, Alaska mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
another bit question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello List! I have a bit question too. This weekend I went to our first show of the season. Baldur did really well, he always does, but I was very unhappy with the bit I had bought recently as my show bit. For the last 2 years B has been ridden in a hackamore by the lesson kids. It's mainly a control issue, as it works on the poll and has a great curb chain that B respects more than their hands. Over the last 6 months I've been riding him more and teaching on him less, so for my riding I switched him to a French link snaffle. I rode him in that for a while, but still wasn't happy. He was better than in the loose ring snaffle, but not great. I found a Waterford Bit (Looks like big beads strung together) at the Equine Affaire. This is the best bit by far for schooling. However I can't use it in dressage and it's not quite enough for showing, as he gets strog at times. So for showing I bought a Mullen Mouth Pelham with longish shanks. I schooled in it twice and decided I liked it. He did get his tongue over it once so I wrapped it in latex in the center to prevent that. I chose it for the cub chain (respect again) and the fact that I can keep my hands really soft and not have to give big reminder half halts (hunter show...they don't want to see the hands move) Well, after riding him in it 6 times at the show I decided I don't like it. It sits funny in his mouth. Almost like it needs to go up a hole, but it can't. I played with his mouth and noticed that his pallet is REALLY low and he's got a big ol' tongue. Any thoughts? I want a bit with a little oompf but need something other than a regular nutcracker bit. I also would like something that works a little bit on the poll. Wishful thinking I know. Do they make a french link pelham? (LOL probably not.) Also, any thoughts on a good legal dressage bit? I was thinking of looking for a bidoon bit for that. Something really thin. Any thoughts or suggestions would be great. Thanks Kate in CT owned by Baldur the wonder fjord graduate B pony clubber MysticPonyClub egroups moderator ARIA certified riding instructor Professional Braider
