Re: sheath cleaning and clicker training
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ann, Linda I loved meeting you at the show. I felt so sorry for all of you and the horses having to endure that heat and humidity. Too bad the show couldn't be scheduled for a month in the fall. I'll bet you were as ecstatic as we were when the storms came through and the cool air moved in!! Glad you made it home safely. Talk to you soon! Susan in blissful MN
sheath cleaning and clicker training
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] About gunky sheaths - my gelding Draugen also is quite gunky, and I like to use the commercial sheath cleaner (Excalibur I think). I'd be careful with other products that might be irritating. I spent some time working to get him to lower himself through clicker training. I must admit I felt awfully dumb peering intently at his sheath for long periods, WAITING and WAITING for something to happen, so I could reinforce with a click and treat. I kept hoping no one was watching and thinking I was a pervert : - ) Now I use the command drop it and he actually does (well not every time, but often enough). Anyway, he lost his shyness. Ann from Cloquet MN, fresh from Blue Earth where my gelding amused and cooled himself by trying to sit in his water bucket (quite a bit too small though). And it was nice to see Steve, Cynthia, Susan, Linda, Jon, Mary and many other listers. Everyone was SO HELPFUL and kind to a beginner like me!
sheath cleaning
This message is from: Laurie Pittman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Just gotta say that I'm glad to hear that Tor is not the only fjord out there that needs to be cleaned often. I was wondering if this was a *fjord thing* or another *Tor thing*. : ) Gotta go. It's beautiful out today and I'm going to get out and drive that boy!! Laurie
Re: sheath cleaning
This message is from: Karen McCarthy [EMAIL PROTECTED] Finally couldn't resist! This sheath cleaning thread has finally took it's toll on me. Am I a horrible person indeed, to admit that my stallion is fortunate if I clean his, er, equipment, perhaps 2X a year, if he's lucky!...and BTW, he considers himself very lucky indeed, (I think), as he acts very pleasant throughout the ordeal. Nary a leg cocked,or one mean look. I use lukewarm H20, ivory soap,(as per my vet's instr.) and rinse well w/ clean, warm H20. (Same for the mares.) Why do I feel this is OK? Well, do wild horses go get their sheaths tidied up? I live very close 'bye an area teeming w/ wild horses, and I've not noticed a sheath cleaning station yet. I do clean when a new mare is brought in for breeding. Maybe he's not the grungy type... anyway, can we talk about another subject? I thought Becky Vorpagel's thought about having NFHR regions was interesting, and would perhaps equalise balance out the activities and educational endeavors. Can you imagine, Championships? Weelll...just a little firecracker to toss @ the collective feet of this list; anyone care to foIlow? -Have a Great Weekend! Karen, Carson City, NV Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
Re: sheath cleaning
This message is from: Jean Gayle [EMAIL PROTECTED] I was told by a vet to use the Betadine and it does not seem to irritate at all. I have tried to get a pattern from my gelding's covered legs with when the mare is cycling. It is almost at that time. Jean Gayle where we may have a decent day yet! Aberdeen, Wa -Original Message- From: GAIL RUSSELL [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Friday, March 26, 1999 8:45 AM Subject: Re: sheath cleaning This message is from: GAIL RUSSELL [EMAIL PROTECTED] My vet uses warm water and cotton balls only. She says not to use soap - because it is too hard to rinse out properly. Betadine scrub seems harsh.You might just rinse out the sheath Gail Russell Forestville CA [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: sheath cleaning
This message is from: GAIL RUSSELL [EMAIL PROTECTED] My vet uses warm water and cotton balls only. She says not to use soap - because it is too hard to rinse out properly. She told me a horror story the last time she came about someone using strong stuff (cannot remember what) to clean a gelding's sheath. She said the only thing she could do was to administer drugs to control the pain and/or swelling. Betadine scrub seems harsh.You might just rinse out the sheath using a hose with warm water every few days or so and avoid the betadine for a while and see how that goes. Any advice from the vets and others? Gail Russell Forestville CA [EMAIL PROTECTED]
sheath cleaning
This message is from: Jean Ernest [EMAIL PROTECTED] Is it possible to do it TOO often and iritate the skin, removing all of the harmless but protective bacteria? Betadine scrub seems harsh. Excaliber sheath cleaner with Tea tree oil is a lot milder, yet even that needs to be thoroughly rinsed out or it can scald.. I have noticed scalding on my gelding's private part from not rinsing well... The skin peeled. You might just rinse out the sheath using a hose with warm water every few days or so and avoid the betadine for a while and see how that goes. Any advice from the vets and others? Jean in Fairbanks, Alaska, wher it was +50 yesterday but back to normal temps tomorrow with some snow :-( At 09:07 PM 3/25/99 EST, you wrote: This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] So I am not the only Fjord owner with the sheath cleaning problem. Noboby else at the stable lars lives in cleans their horse's sheath. They get done twice a year, by the vet, if they're lucky. I need to do Lars on a two week cycle, Jean Ernest Fairbanks, Alaska [EMAIL PROTECTED]
SHEATH CLEANING
I, for one, am glad I did not read the kicking stories on the list before this past Sat. It was a beautiful, warm day in southeastern Wisconsin and as I was grooming my 8yo gelding he let himself down and I decided to take advantage of the situation and try a first attempt at cleaning his sheath- never thinking this could be a hazardous task. (my vet recommended liquid Ivory soap and warm water) I ran and made the preparations and of course, by the time I was ready, he was no longer out, but I decided to proceed. As I, with my rubber goved hand reached up in there with a large, wet rag and began to scoop out the foul material, Jock started to lift his hind leg, but I just talked to him and he soon relaxed and didn't seem bothered at all. Had I read the previous list comments, I may have opted for the vet as I originally planned. Being a novice at this, I am wondering if cleaning when my horse is not out still accomplishes the task satisfactorily? I did remove most of the smegma, but I didn't leave him sqeaky clean-and yes, I did remove the bean. Also what is rompun? From what was stated, I'm guessing it's a relaxant to help the horse to let down? Linda-the wind is howling here in Wisconsin as well-for five days now. I hate it-my horse gets uneasy when we ride outside on a really windy day, so it makes for a not-so-relaxed ride. Joni Jock
a funny sheath cleaning incident
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (BRIAN C JACOBSEN)
In our freshman year of vet school we had a very good and well-liked
anatomy instructor. One day she related the following experience about
sheath cleaning to us.
I will change her name for the sake of internet privacy.
Dr. Blush had always cleaned her gelding's sheath religiously, and he was
usually very good about it. One day, shortly after moving to a new house
and pasture, she noticed her horse standing right by the water hose,
relaxed, with everything hanging out. Always prepared to clean his
sheath, she grabbed her bucket of materials and went to work. For some
reason though, that day he gave her a terrible time about getting the
whole thing done. One whole hour later, after much exertion and
struggle, she finally finished. Exhausted, she straightened up and
turned around. Much to her chagrin, she saw all her new non-horsey
neighbors lining the fence. It was fairly easy to tell from the
expressions on their faces that they were wondering what in the world she
was doing to that horse!
Well, she tried to explain, but was never quite sure they believed her.
I think you can understand why then, she didn't live there for very long!
: {)
Brian J.
Norwegian Fjordhest Ranch
Salisbury, North Carolina
P.S. Don't let this dissuade you from cleaning your gelding's sheath.
Perhaps just prep the non-horsey neighbors first!
P.P.S. For those fairly new to horses (or new to geldings) - here are
two things that haven't (I don't think) been mentioned about cleaning
sheaths. 1) If your gelding (or stallion for that matter) makes makes a
funny squawking or sucking noise when he runs, it MAY BE that his
sheath needs to be cleaned. At times I have heard mares making similar
noises and I think that may coming from the intestines. 2) If your male
horse seems to be straining unusually hard to urinate, or his urine comes
out in a wide spray instead of a stream, he may have a bean that needs
to be removed, as has been mentioned. The bean is a conglomeration of
sweat, dirt, and secretions (smegma - what a term!) that forms in a
cavity at the end of the penis. In the interest of health and
cleanliness, cleaning the sheath and penis, etc. twice a year is probably
sufficient unless you are blessed, as some have indicated, to have a
horse who stays very dirty in that area. Stallions do not generally get
as dirty because they like to show off much more. I have seen, one time,
a gelding who couldn't urinate because he had accumulated such a big
bean. Also, your twice-yearly exam may reveal a sore or cancer that
needs some attention. Often if a problem in this area is caught early,
it can be dealt with, whereas if it has gone on unnoticed for some time,
it may be too late.
_
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Re: Sheath cleaning
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] John Lyons' method of desensitizing horses might help with the boys who don't want their family jewels handled: Do this desensitization exercise when your horse is feeling mellow and quiet. Don't halter or tie your horse -- if he needs to leave, let him. Don't force him to stay if he's really uncomfortable staying near you. Your goal, though, is to go slowly enough with the process I'm going to describe so your horse won't choose to leave, even if he does get a little anxious. Watch the horse's body language -- his ears, head, feet or tail -- for signs that he's getting uncomfortable or is staying relaxed. Be sure to praise him a lot, as you work with him, for being a brave, smart horse! Never yell at him if he doesn't do what you want, just calmly start again at a point at which you're sure you and he are comfortable. Stop at a point when you and the horse are calm and relaxed -- this doesn't have to be done in one lesson. Lyons starts by -briefly- touching the horse in a place where the horse is -comfortable-. Just a gentle, quick touch, like a fly landing then immediately flying off. And another touch. And more touches until the horse gets bored. Nothing fancy, flashy, or anything. Just get the horse used to being quietly touched in a place where he's comfortable. Then touch a little closer to the problem spot. Just a quick, light touch, and another, etc. until the horse shows absolutely no reaction. The touch should be so fast that it's over and gone before the horse can really do anything about getting away from the touch. When the horse is desensitized at that spot, touch a bit closer. Maybe the horse's head goes up and he shifts weight a little. Or maybe the weight comes off one back hoof or the tail swishes nervously. If the reaction is mild, keep touching, but increase the time between your quick, light touches (in other words, slow down), so the horse can realize that nothing horrible is happening to him. But if the horse starts acting as if he really wants to leave or to kick, BACK OFF. Go back to touching a spot where he's comfortable and let him relax. Once he's relaxed, you might even quit for the day. Follow this method until you can touch the important parts. Don't get impatient -- if it takes days to get this far with your touches, just remember that you are that many days closer to reaching your goal! When you can gently touch all over the outside of his sheath, then work on desensitizing him to firmer touches, rubbing, touching inside the sheath, etc. If he gets tense at any time, slow down or back off. -Prove- to the horse that your touching him there won't be a major ordeal and that his feelings will be respected. Regarding the cleaning itself, Jessica Jahiel, in her Horse Sense newsletter, wrote a general article about sheath cleaning. It was in response to a letter from a gal who had a gelding named Poco. This horse owner wrote, Poco is rubbing his tail really a lot and it looks sore, also he doesn't put his thing back in his sheath all the way. ... [My riding instructor] said if [the sheath cleaning] isn't done by my next lesson I won't get a lesson because Poco is too uncomfortable. Here's a reprint of what Jahiel wrote in reply: * Reprint of Sheath Cleaning article by Jessica Jahiel follows * If you have a wash stall with warm water, that will be great -- if you don't, you'll have to heat some water in buckets. Warm water is key to the success of this procedure. ;-) Get an equipment bucket organized! You'll want the following: - a pair of surgical gloves (be sure that they fit your hands) -- never do this job bare-handed! - a roll of sheet cotton - a clean, soft sponge - a plastic bottle of mineral oil OR - a bottle of a product called Excalibur sheath cleaner (if you can find this, I recommend it highly; it makes the job faster and more pleasant) - a small trash bag Your vet can get you the gloves and cotton if they aren't available at your barn. The process isn't complicated or difficult, although it can be messy. ;-) Here's what you do. Put the gloves on BEFORE your hands are even slightly damp; surgical gloves are hard to put on over wet skin. Open the trash bag and put it where you can get at it. Fill the palm of one hand with mineral oil (or sheath cleaner), and put it up INSIDE Poco's sheath. If you're lucky and he has a very easygoing attitude about the procedure, he may drop down and you'l be able to work easily. If he retracts instead, don't worry, you can still get him clean. Squoosh the oil or cleaner around in the sheath, add more if you need more, and then leave it alone for at least five minutes. This will give the oil or cleaner time to go to work. The idea is that the substance you put into the sheath will soften all of the material that you want to remove, and that, at the same time, it will coat and soften the horse's skin so that the dirt and dead skin you're going to remove won't cause painful
Re: Trail riding, sheath cleaning, etc.
This message is from: Starfire Farm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, everybody, from Colorado. The weather her has just turned gorgeous and I am having difficulty getting to work! Maerta, Magnum and John Arthur are soaking up the warm sunshine and the mud is finally drying. Hope this lasts for a few days! I am thinking about getting a KK bit for riding. Tell me, someone, are they really worth their cost? I sure want Tank to have a comfortable non-abusive bit, but they are s expensive! I currently use a German loose-ring snaffle on him and he goes fine in it. Though it is getting a bit small also. And if you use a KK, which one to you recommend - schooling or training bit? Reference KK bits, the important thing about a bit is that it fits the conformation of your horse's mouth. The great thing about the KK training bit is the connecting piece in the middle, which allows the bit to lay gently across the tongue and the bars of the jaw. When pressure is applied with the reins, you don't get the nutcracker effect that you get with an ordinary snaffle (which is jointed in the middle of the mouthpiece.) The nutcracker effect of the ordinary snaffle can send the joint of the mouthpiece into the upper palate of the horse's mouth, which is very uncomfortable. I don't know what a schooling bit looks like, as I don't have a catalogue in front of me which carries the KK schooling bit. If it is something like an ordinary snaffle, my choice would be to purchase the training bit. Our Fjords seem to have pretty thick mouths, with low palates and thick tongues. Therefore, I use a French snaffle for riding. A French snaffle is similar to the KK training bit, with a small piece in the middle. My bits are stainless steel and the horses' mouths get nice and foamy (which keeps them soft and sensitive), so I haven't felt the need to buy a German silver or Aurigan alloy bit. The German silver bits contain nickel, which creates a mild electrical current in the horses mouth, which promotes salivation. The Aurigan alloys also promote salivation in this manner, by using copper as the main ingredient. My experience has been that proper, tactful, reinsmanship promotes salivation and sensitivity just as well as using an alloy metal bit! There are some good books out there on bits and bitting. Many are listed in several popular catalogues. My favorite is Tack in the Box because they include anecdotal stories and educational information about the equipment they are selling. They have a web site at www.tackinthebox.com. Also can be reached at 1-800-456-8225. Re: Sheaths - I can't believe how dirty our Fjord geldings are! They, however, don't seem to mind being cleaned. Happy Spring! From the Fjords, Beth and Sandy @ Starfire Farm.
Trail riding, sheath cleaning, etc.
This message is from: Cynthia_Madden/OAA/UNO/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Tank and I have been enjoying the trails a lot the last few days. I am so glad the time has changed again and I can do things with the horses in the evening. I have been getting in all the riding I can as I have to go out of town for five days and I can't stand the thought of being away in such good weather after a winter of so little horse activity and the woods are so pleasant right now. Tank has stopped seeing trolls and is concentrating instead on going up and down our little hills. I'll bet you thought Nebraska was flat (Illinois is flat, west Texas is flat). It is great conditioning for him. We will hit the roads in the cart when I get back if I have been able to get a new driving bit for him. He has outgrown his current one over the winter. I am thinking about getting a KK bit for riding. Tell me, someone, are they really worth their cost? I sure want Tank to have a comfortable non-abusive bit, but they are s expensive! I currently use a German loose-ring snaffle on him and he goes fine in it. Though it is getting a bit small also. And if you use a KK, which one to you recommend - schooling or training bit? Thanks for all the tips on sheath cleaning. Keyah and Pferd (the Morgan's) don't mind it, but Tank doesn't like it. I will try some of the ideas. Also, I have used the spreading hands trick on Tank and he stops and doesn't invade my space. It works great. We are also learning to stand - I think he is mentally more ready for the concept now, but I am also being more demanding about it. Welcome all you new subscribers! This list is so much fun and so informative. Happy trails! Cynthia Madden, Coordinator Office of Sponsored Programs Research University of Nebraska at Omaha.
Re: Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: GAIL RUSSELL [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Paul, We will try that. This horse seems to have generally very sensitive skin. As a result he loves being touched on his neck and face, but is ticklish about his belly - even at the girth line. I was thinking about using a car wash brush (very soft - with an 18 inch handle) and working it just a little further back (vey small increments!) every day. I figure he can't resist forever as long as I don't push too hard. Thanks for the advice! Gail Gail Russell Forestville CA [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: Alison Barr [EMAIL PROTECTED] Marsha Jo Hannah wrote: Then, yesterday was vet day (vaccinations, having teeth floated, and sheath cleanings for the boys). The vet (originally from Finland) really liked Sleepy. Rom, unfortunately, tried to kick her arm off (yes, he was tranq'd, and hobbled). Any suggestions out there for convincing a moderately spoiled and very vet-shy Fjord that he really should like having his prize possession cleaned? Sunny hates it. try picking up a foot, that sometimes helps (pick up one on the side that you are on, it is harder to kick and they can't fall on you). Also, if you rub a spot between the sheath and their belly buttons, they usually relax and drop their sheath. I tried it on Sunny (without tranks or hobbles or anything elce) and although he wouldn't let me clean it, he allowed me there, which is a vast improvement.
Re: Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: Paul Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] OK Gail, I would have posted this with Marsha's reply, but I just read yours. Start with belly rubs and work your way back. Do it daily and you will get there. Paul
Re: Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: Paul Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Marsha Jo, The answer to getting your Fjord to tolerate sheath cleaning is repetition, repetition, repetition. I have one who cannot drop, so he gets it often. Now, I just sit on the ground almost under him and he just stands there. Paul, Carson City, NV
Re: Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: FJORDING [EMAIL PROTECTED] That is the big problem with Lars. I must clean it every two weeks, or he gets his legs covered with caked on exudate from the sheath. My vet says some horses are just like that, but I never saw one that needed it that often. Still, he stands to have it done, and it only really needs the outer part washed. Still, it is an annoyance. I finally got the shoulder-length exam gloves to do it with. Merek.
Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: Marsha Jo Hannah [EMAIL PROTECTED] Julie Will [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Enjoy that sunshine!!! I would shrink up and die without sunshine for that long! And I thought New York weather was gloomy. You should try sunny California. Last Friday was the first time our Fjord geldings had seen their bridles and saddles THIS YEAR! Either it has been raining, or the trails have been too slick (clay soil and mudslides), all winter long. The boys have been ridden (bareback, with halters) to/from pasture occasionally, but only for a few minutes at a time. However, I can attest that Fjords do stay trained. Sleepy was exactly the same calm, quiet, ho-hum pony that I got off of last December! In deference to them (and us) being out of shape, we did a walk-only ride (lots of hill-climbing)---perfect for admiring the wildflowers, which were absolutely spectacular. Then, yesterday was vet day (vaccinations, having teeth floated, and sheath cleanings for the boys). The vet (originally from Finland) really liked Sleepy. Rom, unfortunately, tried to kick her arm off (yes, he was tranq'd, and hobbled). Any suggestions out there for convincing a moderately spoiled and very vet-shy Fjord that he really should like having his prize possession cleaned? Marsha Jo HannahMurphy must have been a horseman-- [EMAIL PROTECTED] anything that can go wrong, will! 30 mi SSE of San Francisco, Calif. ---
Re: Weather, sheath cleaning
This message is from: Gail Russell [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am also interested in this question as our QH turns out to have a mean cow kick. Our vet had to give him extra (and expensive) tranquilizers - a whole witch's brew of types - in order to accomplish this. Gunthar, the Fjord, on the other hand, can be cleaned in the pasture - no halter or bridle. Fortunate too, as he is always filthy! I should probably do it completely every couple of months instead of just trying to get cleaned whenever I'm in the mood. Gail Marsha Jo Hannah wrote: Then, yesterday was vet day (vaccinations, having teeth floated, and sheath cleanings for the boys). The vet (originally from Finland) really liked Sleepy. Rom, unfortunately, tried to kick her arm off (yes, he was tranq'd, and hobbled). Any suggestions out there for convincing a moderately spoiled and very vet-shy Fjord that he really should like having his prize possession cleaned?
