Re: [Gimp-user] Suggestion

[Steve Kinney]

On 8/16/19 12:05 PM, awoodg...@austin.rr.com wrote:
> For the next Gimp update, on the "Help --> About GIMP" info box, please add
> a line that shows the latest downloadable version of Gimp. This would make
> it easier to update the local copy. Thx. 

That would require the GIMP to 'phone home' over the network, to find
out what the latest official release is.  I would suggest a button that
says "check for updates" and on click, opens the system default web
browser at the appropriate address.  That seems relatively simple option.

On Linux systems, the package manger already announces the availability
of patches and upgrades to the user - so, no need for notifications
inside applications.  On any platform, programs that do not need network
connections should not have them, as they present potential privacy and
security exposures.

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Re: [Gimp-user] Photographic Text

[Steve Kinney]

On 7/17/19 11:43 AM, BEDROCK wrote:
> Seem to be missing some step in creating photographic text. Using MAC and GIMP
> 2.10.12
> 
> Imported image as base layer; Created a new transparent Layer as the 2nd Layer
> and placed a Gradient on it  and set opacity to 70%; 3rd layer is text layer.
> Desire is to have the image base layer show through the text.
> 
> Once above completed - I went to the Base (Image) Layer and selected "Add 
> Alpha
> Channel". Then went to Text Layer and selected "Alpha to Selection". This 
> places
> the dotted lines around the text. However this is where I'm confused. Seems 
> you
> are suppose to go to one of the Layers and select "Select/Invert" and on the
> same layer or a different Layer hit Delete on the Mac keyboard. I've tried
> multiple combinations of this and cannot get the image background to show
> through the Text.

If you want the base layer to show through the gradient layer "as text",
you can add a new layer and fill with a gradient, then add your text
layer as indicated above.  But then, either:

- Add an alpha channel to the gradient layer, select the text layer and
do Alpha To Selection (or Select by Color and click on the text), then
select the gradient layer and do Delete.  Remove or turn off the text
layer, do Select - None and you should see the base layer "as text"
showing through the gradient layer.

or:

- Add a layer mask to the gradient layer, then make your text layer and
do Alpha to Selection (or Select by Color and click on the text).
Select the gradient layer, click on the layer mask to make the mask
active for editing, then drag and drop black from the color selector to
the canvas.  This will fill the selection with black on the mask, making
its parent layer (the gradient one) transparent where the text appears
on the mask.  Dismiss your selection, delete or turn off your text
layer, and you should see the base layer showing through the gradient
like a stencil.

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] ghost outline

[Steve Kinney]

On 7/7/19 9:22 PM, Rick Kline wrote:
> Once you make your selection, open the Select menu, Grow..., Grow selection 
> by 1 px, click OK
> 
> Selecting areas, especially with the Fuzzy Select Tool, Select By Color Tool, 
> etc, often leaves a border where the pixels don’t match the selection 
> criteria.
> 
> Let us know if that helps.

Another method that might help:  Set the mode of the layer with the line
art to "Darken Only."  Depending on how high the contrast between the
light and dark areas of the line art, and how much brighter the layer
inder the line art is, that might give the results you need all in one
go without having to select anything.  The Brightness / Contrast tool,
or the Levels tool, can adjust the contrast in the line art layer to
make black blacker and white whiter.

Using the Erase tool on the line art layer (or, better, adding a layer
mask and painting in black to make parts of the layer 'disappear- a
reversible process) can remove unwanted bits from the line art layer, if
Darken Only mode does not remove everything you want to eliminate.


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Re: [Gimp-user] Downloading Images from Internet

[Steve Kinney]

On 6/26/19 10:34 AM, scyr123 wrote:
> I use Windows 10.  Recently updated to GIMP 2.10.12.  I search for an image
> online, then use right mouse click to get to "Save Image As" option.  When I
> select this option, the window pops up for me to name the file, but the only
> "Save As Type" option I get is GIMP 2.10.12.  I no longer see options of .jpg,
> .png, etc.  I have no idea where the setting might be to change the option so 
> I
> can save these files in other formats.  I don't want every file to be saved 
> for
> use in GIMP.  Any assistance is greatly appreciated.  Image attached to show
> issue.
> 
> Attachments:
> * 
> https://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/1202/original/GIMP_Issue_Screen_Shot.png

The "Save as type" option in the dialog window should present a list
when clicked on; if it does not, that indicates that either something
changed a Windows Registry key that should contain a list of image file
types, or that something went wrong with the program (browser) that
presents the dialog.  To determine which, try downloading an image file
off a web page with a different browser.

The good news:  Regardless of the file name extension, a JPG "saved as
XCF" remains a JPG, and etc. in all but name.  To confirm this, manually
rename a saved image file from XCF to JPG (or some other common image
file extension) and "double click to open" the renamed file.  Your
default image viewer should open and display the file.  Renaming files
as you save them presents as an annoyance but not a show stopper.

You might try searching for "xcf" in Regedit or whatever Microsoft uses
to manage registry contents; if you find the offending entry you might
be able to manually restore other file extensions to the list.  Or try
asking in a Windows user support forum.  The last MS operating system I
had anything to do with was XP...

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] Can this Darken mode Layer in PS be done somehow on Gimp

[Steve Kinney]

On 6/18/19 9:23 AM, TheDarboyRealtor wrote:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH80MFVL5jk&feature=youtu.be
> 
> Sometimes I like to use video...since it shows you more of what I can only
> attempt to explain.
> 
> Just to around 15 minutes or sohe repeated the process some 3 - 5 times to
> show how it works
> 
> I am in real estate, we try to overexpose shots for the windows to fully 
> expose
> the outside view.  Trying the bring that through the Ambients and Bright Shots
> can be very time consuminguntil I saw guys doing this on Photoshop.

A few years ago I reworked a bunch of real estate photos.  You can see a
couple of examples here, including a very relevant interior shot where I
paid a little extra attention to preserving the view through the windows
while correcting the interior light:

http://pilobilus.net/photo_rework.html

In the GIMP, a layer mask amounts to a black and white (grayscale that
is) layer attached to an image layer.  Paint part of the mask black, and
the corresponding part of the layer it's attached to becomes
transparent; shades of gray produce partial transparency.  The
brightness of the windows in the "after' version of the phot remain the
same because I added a mask to the layer and painted those parts black,
after making the interior a lot brighter.

Before adjusting the light in the image, I changed its geometry rather a
lot:  First I used the Perspecitve tool (main tool box) to stretch the
image, getting the walls and ceiling 'squared up' with the viewport.
Then I used the Lens Distortion filter (Filters > Distort > Lens
Disortion) to correct a little 'barrel distortion'.  Then I copied the
modified base image as two new layers.  I used the Levels and Curves
tools to correct the interior lighting on the top layer, added a layer
mask to that layer, and painted the mask black as needed to bring the
windows back to their pre-filter appearance in the layer under the top
one.

I used the tools mentioned above a /lot/ while working on real estate
photos.  I'm sure you will get lots of mileage out of them as well.

:o)








> But I have tried at least to my ability to duplicate and every effort on my
> part, causes the masking to bring the dark window layer through but covers up
> the white window frames...unlike what this video shows. ...
> 
> So perhaps the values work differently or the order... or perhaps this is just
> not possible on Gimp at this time.
> 
> I am truly hoping it can be duplicated here and I just don't know what I am
> doing wrong :-)
> 
> Thanks in advance for your expertise and a great product!
> 
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Re: [Gimp-user] otf fonts

[Steve Kinney]

On 6/1/19 9:56 AM, DrBetsy86 wrote:
> I am trying to use an otf font I purchased. It is installed in the font 
> folder,
> I can access it in Word and even paint but it doesn't show up in gimp. It 
> looks
> like otf fonts should be accessible to gimp, especially as they were created 
> for
> graphic designers, but this one is just not showing up.  Any ideas?

I just checked and the version of GIMP I have here - 2.8.10 on a Debian
family Linux OS - handles OTF fonts normally.  2.10 should do likewise.

If your problem OTF font is installed in a system font folder, try
putting a copy in your GIMP fonts folder to make sure the GIMP can find
it.  On *NIX systems the folder is at /home/.gimp/fonts.  Various
Windows versions seem to put GIMP configuration (etc.) files in
different locations, but they will all be there including the \fonts
folder.  On any system, you will need to tell your file browser to show
hidden files and directories.

This may be helpful in finding the GIMP config & etc. files on Microsoft
systems:

https://superuser.com/questions/489423/where-do-i-put-plugins-for-gimp-2-8-on-windows


Also make sure the file extension is correct, and if it's in upper case
try changing it to lower case.




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Re: [Gimp-user] Infrared image to full color image

[Steve Kinney]

On 5/27/19 11:12 AM, robert hungate via gimp-user-list wrote:
> I have an infrared converted Nikon d700, I would like to able to convert the 
> image to a full color image.  Can some send be a procedure to follow?
> 
> Thank you for your time.

Colorizing images presents as a minor art & science in and of itself -
lots of techniques apply, and they vary from user to user and photo to
photo.  That said, this simple tutorial looks like a good starting point:

http://www.digitalphotoguide.net/post-production/colorize-black-and-white-photo-gimp/

One important detail:  Where the tutorial says "flatten the image,"
don't do that.  You would lose the ability to make adjustments to the
patch of color you just added.  Instead, name that layer after the color
it adds, add another transparent layer, and repeat the process described
for another color.  As you are looking for a finished project in "full
color", you will likely end up with a half dozen or more layers, each
new one adding a different color to different regions of the original
image.

The Hue / Saturation tool in the main GIMP toolbox will enable you to
make fine adjustments to your color layers as needed.  I expect this
will be a life saver.  So, too, might using the Smudge tool with a small
brush selected, to adjust the edges of the color patches to more closely
match/blend with the base image.

If your base image is not already in grayscale, you will want to convert
a copy of that layer to grayscale before adding colorizing layers above
it. Some adjustments to the brightness, contrast, etc. of the grayscale
layer may be helpful to get a more natural looking base image; if so try
the Brightness/Contrast and or Curves tools.

Save your project as an .xcf file "early and often" to assure you don't
lose any work.

:o)








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Re: [Gimp-user] Text gets enlarged automatically upon ...

[Steve Kinney]

On 5/19/19 8:52 PM, chrisj wrote:
> When I try to edit a .xcf file (of text words), and select the correct layer,
> then select the Text tool, a box pops-up stating "Confirm Text Editing". When 
> I
> select 'edit' that text layer enlarges automatically beyond the canvas area.
> Very annoying. 

I just did a little project (using GIMP 2.8) and ran into the same
thing.  In my case, this happens when the text was created in a larger
version of the image, when I later scaled down.  Scaling the image does
not change the initial text size setting, so when the text layer is made
active for editing, viola:  Giant text.  Saving the XCF file after
adjusting the text size will fix this - for the one text layer in question.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Brush sizes in GIMP

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/15/18 10:11 AM, stricklyprs...@look.ca wrote:
> I can no longer change brush sizes in Gimp 2.8
> 
> I downloaded Gimp 2.10 and still cannot change brush sizes. 
> 
> 2.8 the tool box would show up with all the settings for the brushes which
> were in white. But it changed to grey and would not allow changes.
> 
> 2.10 does the same thing. 

It seems like "something changed" in your installed GIMP files and/or
configuration settings.  Since I don't know what would cause the problem
you describe, I can't suggest a way "back to normal" from there.

But until that underlying problem gets fixed, here's something to try:
Make some new brushes with the Brush Editor.  With any luck they may
work normally, or failing that, the editor's behavior might provide
clues to what's going on.

https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-brush-dialog.html#gimp-brush-editor-dialog

I love "parametric brushes," that's the kind that the brush editor
makes.  Their size, hardness and even shape can be edited.  I configure
keyboard + mouse wheel commands to increase and decrease the size and
hardness of the active brush.  That makes work like retouching photos go
WAY faster, vs. constantly changing brushes.

https://www.hscripts.com/tutorials/gimp/configure-keyboard-shortcuts.html

When I made my 'main' brush set I named them with leading zeroes so they
would always be at the top of the menu in the Brushes dialog dock.  With
a circle, square, diamond and four ellipses (vertical, horizontal and
two diagnoals) I rarely have to use any other brushes.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Imported SVG looks blurry in Gimp

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/17/18 2:08 AM, Miracles Happen via gimp-user-list wrote:
> Steve Kinney,
> 
> thanks for your help.
> 
> I followed your instructions (I'm using Gimp 2.10.8).
> The dockable path dialogue is also available on the layer dock in this
> version.
> I created a new path, as you suggested but then I couldn't find an import
> image at the
> bottom of the dock.
> However, if I right click on the empty path there is a menu with the option
> "import path" where
> I can select the .svg image but I get an error message "No paths found..."
> 
> Did I have to create a path in Inkscape? Because I have no clue. My purpose
> was just
> scaling down an image.
> 
> Thanks!

A SVG file created with Inksacpe is nearly the same thing as a GIMP
"path", in that the formats are compatible enough for the GIMP to
interpret an SVG file.

I seem to have originally replied to you, not the list - oops.  For
reference, here's my earlier post:

I'm using GIMP 2.8.10, hopefully this all works the same in your version...

To import an SVG file into the GIMP, open the Paths dockable dialog and
create a new, empty path.  (That's the counter-intuitive part.)

Then, it becomes possible to import an SVG file via the "Import" button
at the bottom of the said dock.  [note: vs. right-click the new path's
thumbnail and select "import", I probably got that wrong in my original
reply.]

This should give "perfect" results, loading the original vector paths in
the GIMP, available for use in making an image with pixels and such. It
may take a bit of tweaking but the parts should all be present.

You can then render visible content on a (new) image layer from the
imported SVG path(s) via the stroke function, path-to-selection followed
by filling the selection, etc.




> Owen,
> I don't want to waste too much time for something like this. It would be
> much easier for me to draw a new coat than
> wasting too much time to resize the one I've made. It's just an item of
> armor for an iconset in RPG Maker.
> If it is a simple process ok, otherwise I won't bother any longer, I've
> already wasted an entire day yesterday.
> Thanks to you too for your help!
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Dec 17, 2018 at 12:29 PM Owen  wrote:
> 
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Size: 24 x 24 pixels
>>> DPI: 90 (it cannot be changed or the size will change as well)
>>
>>
>> That is approximately 10 mm X 10 mm
>>
>> If you are looking at it, say 40 X 40 mm size, it will look blury.
>>
>> One way to visualise what is happening is to open the original image as
>> say 480X480 and overlay a grid of 20px. Then you will notice what each
>> pixel covers. You will also get an idea of the anti aliasing  will do which
>> is what you will see when you magnify the 24 x 24 px image.
>>
>>
>>
>> Owen
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Re: [Gimp-user] How many people use g'mic?

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/16/18 8:39 AM, Joel Rees via gimp-user-list wrote:
> Would like to hear opinions about g'mic.

G'MIC rules, there is none higher, they can have my G'MIC when they pry
it out of my cold, dead computer.  All Hail the Mighty G'MIC!

But seriously, I do use some of its 'repair' filters quite often.  A lot
of the others seem more like toys to me, but I'm sure that users with
other needs regard some functions I only play with as entirely practical
tools.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] different Vignette parameters 2.8 vs 2.10

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/29/18 5:48 PM, Henk Koning via gimp-user-list wrote:
> Dear All,
> 
>  
> 
> I am new to this list.

Welcome aboard!

> Question: is there a way to have in 2.10 the same Vignette result, with the
> same parameter values, as in 2.8 ?

I never realized there was a vignette tool - I had to dig for it to
check it out.  I have always created vignette effects 'by hand.'  So I
don't have an answer to your question, but here's an alternative method
that may be useful:

https://gimpguru.wordpress.com/Tutorials/Vignetting/

This method creates a new layer that selectively darkens the visible
layers below it except in the highlighted region. Changing the layer's
opacity changes the strength of the result; I typically over-do the
effect a little on purpose, then dial down the vignette layer's opacity
until the image looks right.

To decrease the sharpness, contrast and/or saturation of the area your
vignette darkens, apply these changes to the same layer created per the
above instructions.

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP user friendliness suggestion

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/14/18 6:21 PM, Anthony Dunk via gimp-user-list wrote:
> I find GIMP very useful as an image editor on Linux, but my one big issue 
> with this program is that it does not save to PNG or JPG unless you use the 
> "Export" option. It would be so much more intuitive if GIMP's "Save as" 
> feature had PNG and JPG as file options.
> This is the one thing that makes GIMP feel awkward when I use it, and as a 
> developer myself it seems like it would be dead simple to change it...

Hey Anthony,

I was literally just thinking to myself, "I know there's no show-stopper
bugs or issues with the latest GIMP versions, because I'm not seeing any
long complaint threads on gimp-user, like the firestorm introducing
Export vs. Save started."  Then I read your post.  :D

Ultimately, Save vs. Export is just a semantic issue:

The GIMP "saves" image editing projects as XCF files, with all layers,
channels, paths, etc. intact.  XCF is the GIMP's native file format.

The GIMP "exports" images from editing projects into flat file formats
intended for display or print only, typically with some loss of
resolution compared to their XCF 'master' files.

"Saving" an image that took an hour to produce as a JPG file without
also saving to XCF would discard an hour's work.  Making corrections or
changes to the image later would involve either starting over from
scratch, or accepting significant noise and loss of resolution in the
updated image.

In addition to accurately describing what they do, the GIMP's division
of Save and Export commands provides a safety net of sorts, a built in
reminder to "save" the project as well as "exporting" the project's
finished product.  I like that.

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] Book recommendation sought

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/15/18 7:41 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:

... > When using a layer mask to "mask out" unwanted
> parts of imported images, the original layer is still there and you can
> refine or change your cutting job by painting on the mask with white to
> restore 'invisible' pixels, or black to 'erase' more of the pesky
> things.  Paint on the mask with a soft edged brush to smoothly blend
> edges - or, with the mask "active" in the layers dialog, do a "Fuzzy
> Select" (magic wand) selection of a sharp edged area, drag and drop
> white or black as required into the selection to feather its edge..
Heh, skipped a step.  Do Select > Feather Selection before the drag and
drop part.

Or, just use the Free Select tool to draw a sloppy outline around the
part of the mask you want to feather, and with that selection active,
use Gaussian Blur to make the sharp edges included in your selection
fuzzy.

:D
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Re: [Gimp-user] Book recommendation sought

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/15/18 4:45 PM, Dick Marti via gimp-user-list wrote:
> Thanks for answering my previous questions about Gimp.
> Your answers led me to a further question. Amazon lists dozens of book titles 
> on using Gimp. Many of them involve assistance with particular aspects of 
> using Gimp, such as making posters or putting images inside text. Usually the 
> book titles are not helpful in determining what the content covers. Can you 
> recommend the best recent books on producing fantasy landscapes by arranging 
> snippets of several different pictures?

Hey Dick,

As far as I know, no GIMP books in print are up to date, in the sense of
covering new and changed features in the latest version of the GIMP.

The good news is, that this will rarely make a difference.  When it
does, the GIMP's built in Help files and the online GIMP User Manual
should explain the differences at once.  If following the directions in
a book or tutorial fail or give unexpected results, review the tools
used and check there first.

https://www.gimp.org/docs/

As you are looking to produce fantasy landscapes by combining elements
from multiple images, topics of large interest would include:

* Layers:  The source images you are combining will each live on their
own layer in the XCF file you are working on, all but the lowest layer
"in front of" and hiding parts of the layers below it.

You will be working with layers and layer masks a lot, so it will pay to
learn how all their basic layer functions work early on:  Toggling
visibility on and off, moving layers up and down in the stack, moving
layers around on the canvas (main editing window), adding and using
layer masks, copying layers, creating new layers from the currently
visible layers.  Layer groups are also likely to come in handy.

* Layer masks:  In the GIMP a "mask" is in effect a black and white
(grayscale) layer "hooked to" a regular layer.  Where the mask is white,
its parent layer will be fully visible in the finished image.  Where the
mask is black, its parent layer will be completely transparent in the
finished images.  Shades of gray enable partial transparency, blending
from one to the other.

Masking vs. erasing:  You can use the Eraser tool (or numerous others)
to remove pixels from any layer, leaving the affected areas transparent
(if the layer's alpha channel is on).  This might look like the e-z and
obvious way to cut out bits of an image imported into a project, but
beware:  You can't bring erased pixels back except by "undo" (vs.
control-z), so if you decide WAY later in the editing process you need
to do that... oops.  But when using a layer mask to "mask out" unwanted
parts of imported images, the original layer is still there and you can
refine or change your cutting job by painting on the mask with white to
restore 'invisible' pixels, or black to 'erase' more of the pesky
things.  Paint on the mask with a soft edged brush to smoothly blend
edges - or, with the mask "active" in the layers dialog, do a "Fuzzy
Select" (magic wand) selection of a sharp edged area, drag and drop
white or black as required into the selection to feather its edge..

* Understanding issues of scale and resolution, to assure that the
source images you choose will "look right" in the finished images.

* The Scale, Rotate and Perspective tools:  Making the bits fit when
composing a collage that's supposed to look like a reasonably natural
landscape (dragons or etc. included as needs be) takes a lot of
tweaking:  Make them the right size, make them point the right way "up"
for a perfect fit, and smoothly stretching them into new shapes, will be
among the first things done to a newly imported layer in the kinds of
project you describe.

* Color and light adjustment:  The Curves, Hue-Saturation, and Color
Balance tools will probably play prominent roles in your project.  The
Curves tool allows selective brightening or darkening of a layer's
content, relative to the pixels' original brightness; hard to describe,
easy to understand if you play with it.  The Hue-Saturation tool lets
you make "big" color adjustments to a layer, the Color Balance tool
enables fine tuning of same.

The Perspective Clone tool will probably come in VERY handy:

https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-tool-perspective-clone.html

Reading up on the specific tools named above in the GIMP Help menu and
the online GIMP manual, and playing with what you learn as you go... IS
the book you're looking for.  :D

Actual books:

I recommend Grokking The GIMP, eldrich horror that it is, to anyone
interested in image editing.  The ancient version of the GIMP Carey
Bunks wrote about is long long gone, but Carey's content related to
image editing itself is very much worth knowing:  Image composition,
manipulating perceived depth of field, vignette lighting, etc. never go
out of style.

Free as in Freedom:

https://www.linuxtopia.org/online_books/graphics_tools/gimp_advanced_guide/index.html

Another and much more 'current' title, Beginnin

Re: [Gimp-user] [OT] Just received all posts since 16-Oct-2018

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/6/18 2:46 AM, Ben Oliver via gimp-user-list wrote:
> On 18-11-05 20:44:27, James Moe via gimp-user-list wrote:
>>
>>  This seems to happen sporadically.
>>  All messages sent to the list since 16-Oct-2018 were sent again. I
>> checked the mail headers; the ones I sampled have today's date
>> (5-Nov-2018) shown in the Received headers.
>>  What causes such a burst? Any way to prevent it?
>>
> 
> I just had the same thing, and I think it's because the message are
> moderated by hand, so they get done in batches.

I have not seen any batches of duplicate posts arriving here, just the
normal flow of the list, so all I can say is not everyone is affected by
whatever's going on.

I don't think the list is moderated; I've never heard it mentioned, and
my own posts usually show up within a minute or two.

:o/





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Re: [Gimp-user] irregular cropping

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/4/18 9:47 PM, Ward Ricker via gimp-user-list wrote:
> I downloaded GIMP in order to crop around an odd shaped picture, i.e.,
> remove the white background around an object in a rectangular picture so as
> to leave an odd-shaped image.  I have not studied how to use GIMP.  Since
> this is the only thing I wish to use it for I am simply following the
> third-party instructions from the website where I found out about it, but
> they are simple.   I am:
> 
> Opening my image in GIMP

etc.

I would suggest:

Open your image in the GIMP.

Find your picture in the Layers dialog, right click the thumbnail, and
click Add Alpha Channel.  (That enables transparency.)

Find and activate the Magic Wand tool, a.k.a. contiguous select.  Click
on the background you want rid of.

Then, then do Control-x, or Edit > Delete.

This should remove the unwanted border area, leaving blank space
represented by a two-tone gray checkerboard on the screen.

Then do File > Save as, and enter a name for your edited file, ending in
.png.  Save the image and there ya go:  The result may be good enough
for your purpose, or you may have to use more "manual" techniques.  But
at least it's a start.

For more precise results, the "Lasso" tool used as you describe should
work well; but remember to do Select > Invert before deleting, or you
will remove the content you want to keep, and keep the border you want
rid of.  And always make sure the Alpha channel is on, any time you want
to make something transparent.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Bulky GIMP

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/21/18 4:48 PM, James Rushton wrote:
> The PATHS tool Edit function simply will not work for me.  Can’t change PATH 
> colors via Stroke. Can’t EDIT the Lines.  No matter what I do everything is 
> Greyed out and inaccessible.  I have re-installed GIMP many times in hopes of 
> deleting all the settings with no luck.  I am spending massive amounts of 
> time having to redraw maps from scratch as a result.  I have your latest 
> release.
> 
> Amazing program but I have no interest in becoming a Programmer to use it.

Check here for details on how the Paths tool works:

https://tinyurl.com/ybdnjkzj

No programming is required, ever, but the GIMP is a complex tool that
can do a very wide range of jobs so it does have a learning curve...

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] [offtopic] image viewer which can show the location on a map

[Steve Kinney]

Brilliant!

The open source paradigm in action:

A says, I with I could do this thing...
B says, I bet you could use that thing...
C says, You mean like this?

Boom, done.

:D

On 10/13/2018 11:58 PM, Casey Connor wrote:
> Sorry, the ASCII-ification added a bunch of asterisks. Let me try that
> again:
> 
> Here is a bash script that will take an image file and open a link in
> your browser to the openstreetmap.com site at that location.
> 
> It requires that the "exiftool" utility be installed, which you can
> install e.g. on debian-based systems with:
> 
> sudo apt-get install libimage-exiftool-perl
> 
> Put the following in a file (preferably in a location that is in your
> executable path), call it something like "locatepic".
> 
> #!/bin/bash
> sensible-browser `exiftool -c "%.6f" $1 | grep "GPS Position" | sed -r
> 's/^.*: ([0-9]*\.[0-9]*) ([NS]), ([0-9]*\.[0-9]*)
> ([EW])/http:\/\/www.openstreetmap.org\/search?query=\1%20\2%2C%20\3%20\4/g'`
> 
> 
> (If your distribution doesn't have "sensible-browser" or you don't like
> which browser is used by it, you can use "xdg-open" in its place.)
> 
> Run this command one time:
> 
> chmod ug+x locatepic
> 
> ...to make the file executable. Then run it with:
> 
> locatepic /path/to/your/picture.jpg
> 
> (Or if the executable is not in your path, use /path/to/locatepic
> /path/to/your/picture.jpg)
> 
> There are various ways to integrate this into your desktop environment
> (e.g. so you can right-click on an image and choose "locatepic"), but I
> will leave that as an exercise to the reader. Some useful links:
> 
> https://developer.gnome.org/integration-guide/stable/desktop-files.html.en
> https://specifications.freedesktop.org/desktop-entry-spec/latest/index.html
> https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4824590/propagate-all-arguments-in-a-bash-shell-script?utm_medium=organic&utm_source=google_rich_qa&utm_campaign=google_rich_qa
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Gimp-user] [offtopic] image viewer which can show the location on a map

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/13/2018 12:13 PM, Helmut Jarausch via gimp-user-list wrote:
> On 10/13/2018 04:18:12 PM, Pat David wrote:
>> Possibly DigiKam?
> 
> Thanks Pat,
> 
> I've just installed DigiKam but I can't see any menu item to show the
> location
> where the image was taken.

The "show it on a map" part, vs. just showing the coordinates, seems
very unlikely for any image viewer.

If I had to do that for some reason, I would look into creating a shell
script to open the image in a simple viewer (imagemagick comes to mind),
then query the exif data (I think mediaifo does that), pipe that to grep
to return the line with the coordinates, then open a web browser with
the coordinates inserted into the URL as a search query by sed.  As sed
would be involved, I would spend quite some time reading man pages in an
effort to make it do what I want - that thing utterly baffles me.  :D

The devil as always is in the details, but I'm sure it would be possible.






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Re: [Gimp-user] Printing images to scale

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/10/2018 05:41 PM, Office TyAutDesigns wrote:
> Hello, I have a 36" plotter printer. I take pdf Images and resize them so the 
> men in our shop can use them as a template for product that we make. GIMP is 
> great with resizing however when I go to print the images they aren't coming 
> out to scale. I tried messing with the page setup and print options but 
> nothing has been able to work. In the print options I go to image settings 
> and there is a section that I can change image dimensions but it won't let me 
> change them. Anybody have any ideas where I am going wrong? Thanks!

The usual solution would be to export your finished image in JPG or PNG
format, depending on the required resolution:  JPG makes much smaller
files but introduces some noise; PNG makes larger files with no added
noise or loss of fine detail.

Then, import your finished image into a desktop publishing application
like Scribus (Free Software), set the page size and image dimensions
there, and export as PDF for printing.

This procedure should give very accurate results, although I would
suggest carefully measuring a test printout to assure that the printer
itself is not introducing any errors in scale or placement that would
require adjustment to compensate.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Make GIMP my External Photo Editor

[Steve Kinney]

On 09/05/2018 06:17 PM, Grandview Workshop via gimp-user-list wrote:
> Hello,
> I've been using GIMP for a long time, and I'm very happy with how it works.
> I do stop motion animation, and I use GIMP to edit photos. I recently tried
> a feature on my animation program saying "Edit with an External Editor",
> and I clicked on it, but it brought me to Adobe Photoshop. Basically, I
> wanted to see if anyone knew how to set GIMP as my External Editor for
> Windows. Thanks for your help!

There may be an option to set the external photo editor in your
animation program's configuration menus - I would dig in there first.
You might have to give it the full path to the GIMP executable.

Alternately, if you need to change the default image editor set in
Windows, "simply edit the Windows Registry."  :D

But seriously, I have no way to test it (Linux Mint FTW) but this looks
like it might work:

https://www.nextofwindows.com/how-to-easily-change-windows-10-default-photo-editor

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] How to export jpeg without loss of quality?

[Steve Kinney]

On 08/13/2018 01:23 AM, Steve Kinney wrote:

> Silly me.  In Layers > Scale Layer

Well dang it.  I meant Image > Scale Image.

Getting late here...  :D


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Re: [Gimp-user] How to export jpeg without loss of quality?

[Steve Kinney]

On 08/13/2018 01:19 AM, Steve Kinney wrote:
> 

>  That done, calculate the X and Y dimensions of your print image in
> pixels, based on 300 per inch on the printed page (or other units per
> locale), and scale it down.  Export the scaled image as PNG, and it's
> ready to import into a desktop publishing tool like Scribus or etc.

Silly me.  In Layers > Scale Layer, you can select a DPI value; so
select 300.  Then change the Units to inches (or etc) and set the
dimensions you need for your print-ready image.  Bang, zoom, no
calculator needed.

:D
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Re: [Gimp-user] How to export jpeg without loss of quality?

[Steve Kinney]

> Thanks all who kindly replied to my request of help...  I understand there's a
> loss of the original size because of my resizing and scaling under Gimp..  But
> here we're talking of a 12MB file that becomes 380KB...!  Isn't it too much
> also with those considerations?  

Depends what you mean by "too much."  A very large original source file
would usually be a Good Thing, indicating a high resolution (high DPI)
image.  Squeeze 12MB of data into a 300KB container, and a LOT of
information gets lost no matter what:  More so, however, if you are
using a lossy format for the output file.

> As for the suggestion of using the png format,
> I have the original image in jpeg format...  Are you suggesting of converting
> jpg to png before modifing it with Gimp?  Or to save it, within Gimp, from jpg
> to png?  The final use of this job is not for the web, but for printing, so
> preserving the original quality is important...

Normal procedure is to start with the largest available source image
(usually the only one in the case at hand), open it with the GIMP, and
save it as an XCF file.  XCF uses lossless compression, and also saves
all image layers, text layers, masks, etc. present in images in process.
 If you have to quit editing and resume later, the XCF file will still
have all your work in progress.

Sometimes editing large images may be a slow-ish process, more or less
so as the computer used has more or less system memory and a slower or
faster CPU.  Some operations such as rotating images, scaling images, or
applying complex filters to whole images may take a while with an image
that started as a 12MB JPG.

If possible, it's best to avoid scaling the original image down until
you consider it print-ready.  Then, save the XCF file one last time
/before/ scaling down, just in case you have to go back and change
something, or want to re-use all of part of the image in other projects.
 That done, calculate the X and Y dimensions of your print image in
pixels, based on 300 per inch on the printed page (or other units per
locale), and scale it down.  Export the scaled image as PNG, and it's
ready to import into a desktop publishing tool like Scribus or etc.

Your desktop publishing application will enable you to control the page
margins, where the image (or images) appears on the page, and add lines,
boxes, text or etc. as needed.  Once your page is configured for print,
save the desktop publisher's source file in its own native format
(again, so you can change or reuse it later), then export the file to
PDF, making sure the PDF document is set to 300 DPI.  (Or other, if you
are using higher or lower resolution images.)

PDF a.k.a. Portable Document Format, could also be called Printable
Document Format, because that's what Adobe, working with printer
manufacturers, designed the PDF format for all those years ago.

The first copy printed out will be your "proof."  Examine it closely,
with special attention to color:  Printers and monitors have gotten a
lot more uniform in recent years, and with any luck your image will look
just right when printed.  But if not, open up your XCF file again, save
it with a new name (maybe add a version number to the original file
name), and work on the new XCF file.  Precise color adjustment methods
are WAY out of scope for beginners, and for advice delivered here:
Years of reading tutorials and watching videos on this subject have
given me /some/ clues but I know I have miles left to go.

As a starting point, do Layers > New from visible, and work on the new
layer rather than the "original" layers; that makes starting over as
needed way easier.  Or maybe your color problem only affects parts of
the image on one layer; if so, duplicate that layer, and work on the
duplicate.  You may find the Hue-Saturation tool, the Levels and Curves
tools useful; note that you can separately adjust the Red, Blue and
Green channels with the Curves tool.

One gotcha:  If your printed page has any text added with the desktop
publishing application (not in the GIMP image or images), there will be
print errors if the computer the printer is hooked to does not have the
fonts you used installed on it:  Typically, the program that's sending
the job to the printer will substitute a generic font for the one you
wanted.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] How to export jpeg without loss of quality?

[Steve Kinney]

On 07/29/2018 05:45 AM, Ofnuts wrote:
> On 07/26/18 08:59, Rodolfo Medina via gimp-user-list wrote:
>> Hi all Gimp users.
>>
>> I'm new to Gimp.  I need rescaling and resizing a jpeg picture.  But,
>> after
>> rescaling and resizing it with Gimp, and after exporting it as jpeg
>> format, the
>> size of the output file is much smaller: the original 12MB become 300K...
>> Is it possible, and how, to preserve the original quality?
>>
>> Thanks for any help.
> 
> "Quality" is two things:

[ etc ]

Here's some more pointers...

In the present context, "quality" has two factors, resolution and
compression.

Resolution:

Resolution is measured in DPI or "dots per inch" which means pixels per
inch (or other unit of measurement) in your image editor or on-screen
display.

72 DPI is a common default resolution for exported digital images. I
would call that a "legacy" setting, and a lower limit for most uses.

96 DPI images look good on computer screens, and most website
maintainers avoid higher resolutions (= larger file sizes) for most
images, to save bandwidth.  For quite a while 96 DPI was the native
resolution of most monitors.

Most word processor documents will be viewed on computer monitors and/or
printed with office laser printers.  150 DPI usually looks good in both
of these contexts.  Since word processor documents are often transmitted
via e-mail, and stored in bulk on desktop computers, higher resolution
images may be undesirable, again due to file size issues affecting
bandwidth and storage space.

For color printing on glossy paper, 300 DPI resolution is a well
established convention.  Resolutions higher than 300 DPI will produce
larger file sizes, but usually not result in a visible difference in the
finished product.  The user will be aware of higher resolution needs on
any occasion where they turn up.

Compression:

The JPG format uses lossy compression; the compression algorithm
'guesses' what information can be discarded without a major impact on
the appearance of the image, resulting in very substantial reductions in
file size.  Note that a JPG compression setting of "100%" quality still
uses lossy compression, producing larger file sizes with little or no
visible difference from smaller files compressed at, for instance, 85%
quality.

Another factor to consider:  When a JPG file is opened, edited, and
re-saved as JPG, another round of lossy compression 'on top of' the
already lossy compression from the original image file results in
further loss of detail.  This is one of the reasons why programs like
the GIMP "save" images in the editor's native lossless format, and
"export" images to other formats including JPG.

Where higher quality matters more than lower file size, for instance
images intended for color printing on glossy stock, the lossless PNG
format will usually be more appropriate than JPG.  The output files are
substantially larger, but with PNG what you save is what you get, with
no loss of detail except due to scaling the image up or down in size
while editing.

:o)







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Re: [Gimp-user] Let's discuss about the text tool

[Steve Kinney]

On 07/10/2018 05:42 PM, akovia via gimp-user-list wrote:
> I use the text tool a lot myself and have just come to work around most the 
> annoyances. I realize that it's a tricky situation as there are a ton of 
> variables to consider as well as multiple workflows. I am just chiming in to 
> agree wholeheartedly with #4.
> 
> I recreate logos and have to match fonts to text in an image. In doing so I 
> am constantly zooming in to get the kerning correct which puts the floating 
> box with the kerning adjustment out of view. I have to zoom out to make an 
> adjustment and back in to check it. This can get painful after a while. Of 
> course I wish the floating panel would "float" within the viewport, but I'd 
> be just as happy to have the adjustment available in the tool panel if that's 
> the only way to get it to work.
> 
> Baseline and any other controls that are exclusive to the floating panel 
> should be available in the tool panel if the floating panel cannot be kept in 
> view at all times.
> 
> Cheers 

Ancient Internet Tradition pronounces "me too" posts off topic in any
forum, but:

Me too.  What you just said.  Exactly that.

:D



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Re: [Gimp-user] faded photo

[Steve Kinney]

On 07/10/2018 08:50 AM, lkl316 wrote:

> I don't know the command that will do this step:
> 
>> Another method for bringing up color (and contrast), is to make a
>> layer
>> copy of the (scanned?) original, and set its Layer Mode to Overlay.

In the Layers dialog dock, below the area where layers are shown, left
click the icon that shows two rectangles, one on top of the other.  That
will make a duplicate of the selected (or only) layer, above the
selected (or original) layer.

To change the new layer's mode, find the Mode selector at the top of the
Layers dialog dock, left click where it says "Normal" and select
"Overlay".  The Opacity slider right below that starts at 100%, but can
be used to make the selected layer partially transparent if needed.

The Layers dialog dock is shown at the upper right in the illustration
on this page:

https://docs.gimp.org/2.10/en/gimp-concepts-main-windows.html

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Crop pic affects all other layers

[Steve Kinney]

Use a rectangular selection to define the part of the layer you want to
keep, and do Layers > Crop To Selection.

:o)

On 06/30/2018 03:06 PM, GerryPeters wrote:
> I imported a pic into a project and would like to crop it without cropping all
> the other layers. How can this be done?
> 
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Re: [Gimp-user] How to spice up my background colors

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/30/2018 12:09 AM, GerryPeters wrote:
> I'd like to add some variation to some of my backgrounds which are just 1 
> plain
> color. What's the best way to change that to a gradient or pattern? Or any 
> other
> suggestions to spice up my colors, so they're not so generic. So far I've been
> using the bucket tool

Sounds like it's time to start using layer masks.  A layer mask enables
you to make any part of a layer completely or partially transparent:
Paint in black (or fill a selection, etc.) on a layer mask, and the
layer becomes transparent just there.

If you "mask out" the background in your top layer, leaving only the
foreground objects visible, you can do anything at all to the layer(s)
under it, or add new ones, to change the visible background.

I found masks very confusing at first, this illustrated explanation
might be useful:

http://pilobilus.net/gimp_tutorial.html#layers

To add a mask to a layer, right-click the layer thumbnail in your Layers
dock and select 'add layer mask.'  Left click on the mask to make it
active, so for instance you can paint on it.  Click the 'main' part of
the layer to switch back and do things to the layer's visible content.

Shades of gray make the layer partially transparent; for instance, use
the Gradient tool's default setting, with black and white as foreground
and background in your color selector, to make a layer fade out from top
to bottom, side to side, or etc. with the layer(s) under it showing
through.  Other gradient settings, especially radial, also have their
uses here.

If you want to apply a filter to just some parts of a layer, leaving the
rest unchanged, and blend the altered parts in for a 'natural'
appearance, try this:  Make a copy of the layer you want to alter, apply
the filter to the new layer, and add a layer mask to it.  Then fill the
whole mask with black - making it vanish.  Now you can paint on the top
layer's mask with white - using a soft edged brush - to 'replace' the
bits of your original layer with content from the altered copy.  Made a
mistake?  No problem, switch to black and paint the errors away.
Trouble getting the altered bits to blend in smoothly?  Try applying the
Gaussian Blur filter to the mask, either the whole thing or parts
selected with the Free Select tool.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Line art in black to colored segments - rippled stitch effect

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/27/2018 05:29 PM, Michele Livesay via gimp-user-list wrote:
> I want to take a black lined color book page and change different pieces of 
> the line to different colors.   I am trying to make an embroidery design with 
> colored lines not filled in parts.  I also want to use the ripple effect in 
> some of these designs.  Can you help me?

Hey Michele,

I'm now sure I understand "black lined color" so this may not be the
answer you need, but if you are starting with black lines on a white
background, changing only the color of the lines is easy:  Make a new
layer, and set its Layer Mode to Addition.  Then, if you use the Paint
tool on the new layer, the black lines (only) will change color when
painted over.

If the original layer's background is not quite white, adjusting it with
with the Tools > Levels or Tools > Curves tool will fix that.

If the original layer does have color content as well as the black
lines, it can be removed.  I would probably start by doing Colors >
Desaturate, looking at the results of the different options and using
whichever came closest to my desired result, then using the Curves tool
to white-out all but the darkest pixels.  (The Threshold tool will also
work, but the Curves tool seems to give more precise results; ymmv.)

If you want to use the Ripple filter on the lines (Filters > Distorts >
Ripple) it would be best to do that before coloring them, or you /could/
apply the same distortion to the lines and colors layers after coloring
the lines, or you could do Layers > New From Vislble and apply the
ripple effect to the new layer.

If these aren't the answers you need, give us some more details.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Drop shadow

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/12/2018 09:41 AM, ustharp wrote:
> I am creating a GIF animation over a static background.  I want the background
> to have a drop shadow.  For some reason when I do this, my drop shadow turns
> solid... it does not fade out.  It is just a solid offset layer.  I can't for
> the life of me understand why.
> 
> Any ideas?

Unfortunately the GIF format does not support partial transparency (no
alpha channel).  If you know the exact background the GIF will be
displayed on, you can use that background as an opaque layer - with a
soft-edged drop shadow added where you want it.

:o)

I would suggest trying an animated PNG file, which supports partial
transparency (alpha channel present) but alas, if your animation will be
displayed on a web page, Inernet Explorer and MS Edge do not support
that format (according to Wikipedia - may be old info).

I never made an animated PNG file, so any advice on that including
whether the GIMP can make them, or whether you would have to make the
frames in the GIMP and assemble them with another program.

:o/


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Re: [Gimp-user] faded photo

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/08/2018 03:23 PM, lkl316 wrote:
> I have a kodacolor photo that was totally in color. It was unframed and a
> leaking roof left  it totally washed out. It shows very faint color. I s there
> any technique using Gimp that can restore the color?

Another method for bringing up color (and contrast), is to make a layer
copy of the (scanned?) original, and set its Layer Mode to Overlay.
This alone may not be sufficient; or, if it does /too/ much to increase
color and contrast, dial the new layer's opacity back until if looks
about right.  (I think Akkana Peck posted this method here years ago,
somebody did and I have gotten a LOT of mileage out of it.)

After the above adjustment, do Layer > New From Visible, and do further
work if needed on the new layer.

Some tools to try:

Colors > Hue / Saturation - The saturation and lightness sliders may do
useful things.

Colors > Levels - The default setting will let you drag a curve up and
down where and as needed, to fine tune brightness within specific
ranges.  Play with it, and remember:  Control-z is your friend, just
undo any changes you aren't satisfied with.  Also and maybe more
importantly, the Channel selector will let you work on Red, Green and
Blue independently.

The Colors > Map > Sample Colorize tool may also prove useful,
especially if you want to go as far as combining multiple, masked layers
to recreate the original image.  The Help doc for this tool emphasizes
/removing/ color and creating abstractions, but it can also make very
good guesses in transferring colors from a sample image to the one
you're working on.  Worth a shot, maybe.

http://www.gimphelp.org/official/plug-in-sample-colorize.html

There are SO many ways to go about tweaking color in images...

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Free software for Batch file conversion

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/27/2018 02:24 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:

[...]

> Or if you are using an operating system that supports it, and your
> images are whole pages, imagemagick might do the trick way more simply
> and quickly.  On Linux I have used it to convert scanned pages to PDF.
> The images will appear as pages in alphabetical order, so add 01, 02,
> etc to the front of their names if needed.  Then...
> 
> 1.  Examine the images, determine a good target width for all of them.
> 
> 2.  Edit images if/as required.
> 
> 3.  If necessary equalize image widths via:  mogrify -resize [pixels] *.jpg
> 
> *NOTE* Assure that all images have the same DPI value, use "mogrify
> -density [DPI] *.jpg" (or png, etc.) if required.
> 
> 4.  To convert all images in a directory to one pdf file, do:
> 
> convert *.jpg [output].pdf
> 
> With a large number of pages, the process tends to hang.  In that case,
> this script has done the trick for me.  Copy and save the text below as
> a plain text file, put it in your home directory's /bin folder and set
> it as executable (chmod +x [script-name.scr]).  Then put the images in
> one directory (anywhere), open a terminal there and type the name of
> your script to run it against your images:
> 
> #!/bin/sh
> # convert large number of .jpg files to one PDF file.  Equalize widths
> of .jpg files first via: mogrify -resize [pixels] *.jpg
> 
> for f in *.jpg;
> do
> convert "$f" "${f%.jpg}.pdf"
> done
> pdftk *.pdf cat output combined.pdf/

I forgot:  Requires imagemagic (of course) and, if using the script,
also pdftk ("PDF Toolkit).  You might need to install them, but if so
the are in the repos so that should present no problem - use your
package manager, or appropriate terminal commands.  For instance, on
Debian family systems (Ubuntu, Mind) do:

sudo apt-get install imagemagick pdftk

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Free software for Batch file conversion

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/25/2018 10:57 AM, baskaran rajaram via gimp-user-list wrote:
> Dear,
> I want to convert batch of more than 500 . jpg,. png files into a single. pdf 
> file. How shall I do using GIMP installation., Shall you pls explain in steps.
> 
> Will the. Pdf be OCR enabled, password protected for character searching. 
> Hope there won't be necessary for uploading raw file for convertion. 
> 
> If not what other free software will do for my task.

On any (? probably so) operating system you have, Scribus will do the
job.  Open a new document, select a template with your desired page size
and etc., and start adding image frames, importing images to them, and
(probably) adjusting the frame to image size (right click for options).
Save the file (for re-use, adjustments, etc. as needed, then export it
as PDF with your desired options per the menu that comes up.

If you need to add page numbers, captions, or other text Scribus will
probably be the way to go.

https://wiki.scribus.net/canvas/Download

A Scribus tutorial:

https://wiki.scribus.net/canvas/Get_Started_With_Scribus:4

Or if you are using an operating system that supports it, and your
images are whole pages, imagemagick might do the trick way more simply
and quickly.  On Linux I have used it to convert scanned pages to PDF.
The images will appear as pages in alphabetical order, so add 01, 02,
etc to the front of their names if needed.  Then...

1.  Examine the images, determine a good target width for all of them.

2.  Edit images if/as required.

3.  If necessary equalize image widths via:  mogrify -resize [pixels] *.jpg

*NOTE* Assure that all images have the same DPI value, use "mogrify
-density [DPI] *.jpg" (or png, etc.) if required.

4.  To convert all images in a directory to one pdf file, do:

convert *.jpg [output].pdf

With a large number of pages, the process tends to hang.  In that case,
this script has done the trick for me.  Copy and save the text below as
a plain text file, put it in your home directory's /bin folder and set
it as executable (chmod +x [script-name.scr]).  Then put the images in
one directory (anywhere), open a terminal there and type the name of
your script to run it against your images:

#!/bin/sh
# convert large number of .jpg files to one PDF file.  Equalize widths
of .jpg files first via: mogrify -resize [pixels] *.jpg

for f in *.jpg;
do
convert "$f" "${f%.jpg}.pdf"
done
pdftk *.pdf cat output combined.pdf/



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Re: [Gimp-user] The actual print size on paper is smaller

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/21/2018 06:31 AM, alin33 wrote:
> I have an image inside of a4 document that should be printsd 2"x8" 300 dpi.
> The image is pasted to the a4 as a layer from another gimp document that was 
> ser
> to "2X8". When I print the a4 document with the image embedded- the image is
> smaller then 2"x8" - I measured it with a ruler. Why is that and how I can fix
> it?

Although the GIMP can directly print images, getting accurate results in
placement/size on the page may require test runs, careful measurement, a
bit of math, rescaling, etc.  Importing PNG images made with the GIMP
into a desktop publishing application just works; set your page(s) up
exactly as you want them, including position and size of images.  Export
your page(s) as PDF and pretty much any printer will give you exactly
what you want.

I use Scribus, so far with uniformly good results.

Scribus is Free Software, see https://www.scribus.net/

Versions for more or less every recent operating system:
https://wiki.scribus.net/canvas/Download

Windows users who want to avoid installing software from Sourceforge (a
good policy) can use this version from the PortableApps project:
https://portableapps.com/apps/office/scribus_portable

As usual with production software there is nothing "intuitive" about how
Scribus works, until a person gets used to it - then everything seems
intuitive.  Here's a good starting point for figuring Scribus out:

https://wiki.scribus.net/canvas/Get_Started_With_Scribus:4

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] New to GIMP and out of my league

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/05/2018 03:04 AM, rich404 wrote:
>> I'm trying to get the hang of this, but trying to follow the tutorials
>> my screen looks nothing like what I see. If I start a project I get my
>> picture, no toolboxes. Playing around I can get these up (attachment).
>> I have I have GIMP 2.8 on windows 7. What do I need to do, Please and
>> thanks?
> 
> Looks like you have been influenced by the **make-gimp-look-like-PS** brigade.
> 
> Set Gimp up this way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQz0zCyVFJU 4 min

Or this way:

http://pilobilus.net/gimp_tutorial.html

And bear in mind, it will take time to "get on top of" how this tool
works.  In this respect the GIMP is no different from any professional
graphics editor; miracles are possible but one must first become just a
little bit of a wizard.  Practice does not make perfect, but it will be
very well rewarded.

:D


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Re: [Gimp-user] Update: 2.10.0 now opens.

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/01/2018 08:53 AM, Julien Hardelin wrote:
> Yes, I am the only contributor 

WOW.

> and this gimp-2.8 image is not my
> priority. It is also an alert about the situation. There is so much work
> to do, and I am very old (a great grand-father), working very slowly.
> 
> Seeing so many people writing tutorials on the Web, I can't understand
> why nobody wants to contribute to gimp-help.
> 
> GIMP-HELP NEEDS CONTRIBUTORS
> 
> Julien

I wrote and maintain a GIMP tutorial:

http://pilobilus.net/gimp_tutorial.html

As of now it's way out of date, and I expect it so stay that way for a
couple of months.

The 2.10 release caused a chain reaction here; I paid no attention to
flat pack software installation until I looked it up because there's a
flat pack GIMP 2.10 release.  Now I "have to have that" because the
security factor (especially with web browsers, mail software, etc.) is
too good to pass up.  That means I have to upgrade the OS on my
workstation, THEN install GIMP 2.10 and start learning my way around it.

Writing 'official' GIMP documentation would be very different from
writing tutorials:  My nonsense is my nonsense, people can take it or
leave it - but the manual?  That affects every user who has enough sense
to use it, so everything "has to be right, is all."

This leads to my first questions:

Is there a manual for working on the manual?

Is there a formal to-do list for creating / updating manual entries?

Is there a pre-publication review process for new and revised manual
entries?

:o)

Steve










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Re: [Gimp-user] Virus

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/30/2018 06:28 AM, Joel Rees wrote:

> Is the MSWindows world that seriously bad these days, that you don't
> bother asking what site it was downloaded from, what the hash was,
> etc.?

That bad and worse.

"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human
face - forever." - George Orwell

User said the file came from gimp.org, and a spoofing or MITM attack is
/most/ unlikely.  The problem described will prevent the file from being
read, so no hash can be calculated.

As for repairs, I'm sure there are ways:  And that they are more
complicated, harder for a non-professional user to get right, and FAR
less reliable than just installing Linux and having done with all that
nonsense once and for all.

:o/








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Re: [Gimp-user] Image doesn't move smoothly

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/21/2018 03:16 PM, Øyvind Kolås wrote:

> 
> Updating the display as quick as possible after receiving motion
> events, rather than rendering everything and updating at a low
> frame-rate, is a known feature - not a bug. Until things are fast
> enough to do 15fps of the entire viewport - for instance with GIMP
> integrating with and using the mipmap based preview-rendering
> infrastructure in GEGL, always waiting until we have a full "frame" to
> present will significantly increase latency leading to a worse user
> experience than presenting as much rendered content as soon as
> possible.
> 
> /pippin

So there's eyeballs on this and nothing's broken, just a tad bit slow in
some instances due to the overhead of accurate rendering of very large
data sets remapped from Here to There.  I can live with that.  Have for
many years without seeing it as a problem.  :D


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Re: [Gimp-user] Image doesn't move smoothly

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/20/2018 08:08 PM, Richard wrote:
> If you have the ability to record your steps on video then that could be more 
> helpful than static screenshots and verbal explanations.  But as a quick 
> experiment, I can confirm that moving layers can result in slow redraw times, 
> potentially creating general visual mess (but the move operation otherwise 
> executes normally and the visual artifacts do clean themselves up afterwards).
> 
> 
> If you had a case where the "lag" between moving a layer and the window 
> updating got continually worse the more you kept moving the layer, that would 
> be indicative of a cascading event.  Fortunately, that doesn't seem to be the 
> case here
> 
> 
> Some caveats I noticed:
> 
> - The size of the image canvas, layer in question, and current zoom level 
> seem to have no impact on redraw times; only the actual size of the image 
> window whose area is being redrawn.
> 
> - Visual artifacts are most noticeable when moving the object upwards.
> 
> - Using the Pan function (Spacebar) always results in smooth movement as it 
> is not actually making changes to the image, just scrolling its position 
> within the image window.
> 
> 
> I do notice that during the move operation all visual redraws originate from 
> the upper-left of the moved object.  Not necessarily a bad choice, but could 
> the redraw perhaps originate from the cursor's current location within the 
> image window, redrawing outwards?  After all, when you're clicking and 
> dragging something, the area around the cursor is generally what your vision 
> is focused on
> 

Now this starts to sound like an actual bug in the program.  What
version of the GIMP, on what operating system & operating system
version, is doing this?  Is there a difference when the image is set to
RGB, indexed or grayscale?

The problem Brombur describes and Richard at least partially confirms
may be a 'known issue' or it may need a bug report filed.


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Re: [Gimp-user] Image doesn't move smoothly

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/13/2018 11:42 AM, Brombur wrote:
> I decided to give gimp another go. I've updated my video and run an ok pc with
> decent stats but when I use gimp and try to move any image, of any size or
> resolution the image lags when i position it. even on simple single color
> layers. If i make a red box and try to move it the image is so choppy it looks
> like Im watching a picture download circa 1995.
> 
> Any idea? I don't have this problem when I run Pixlr and when I ran my demo of
> photoshop.

The only times I have seen the GIMP act like that (15+ years across
/numerous/ machines and operating systmes) it was always a memory issue,
typically due to working on a fairly huge image with many full size
layers and LOTS of "undo" steps saved.

Fist check the size of the images you are working with, in pixels:  This
is shown in the canvas window title bar, after the name of the open
file.  If the X and Y dimensions are in the multiple thousands of
pixels, that could be the problem.

I will guess that you are using GIMP 2.8, not a development build; if
not, this may be incorrect (or not):  Go to Edit > Preferences, and in
the Environment menu (should be the one that opens by itself) and check
the Tile Cache Size item.  "When the amount of pixel data exceeds this
limit, GIMP will start to swap tiles to disk."  That sounds very much
like what you are seeing when you move things around on the canvas.  I
normally like to set this limit to about half of total system RAM, more
if the machine has a huge amount of memory, less if the system doesn't
have memory to spare.

On my laptop which does not have a huge amount of memory, I start seeing
a /small/ amount of lag when moving image-sized layers at about 2500 x
2500 pixels - noticeable, but does not slow my workflow down.  At 4000 x
4000 pixels it gets more noticeable; I would have to adjust my maximum
image size setting (same menu as above) to test at 4500 px or above...

Hopefully this will put you on the trail to a solution.  If none of the
above seems to apply, check all running processes on the machine to see
if some background process is eating up a huge amount of system memory.
poss8ible.

:o)








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Re: [Gimp-user] What is this and how do i get rid of it

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/10/2018 07:53 PM, Pat David wrote:
> It’s a sample point. Use the move tool and drag it off the image canvas.
> On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 6:49 PM olladitan  wrote:
> 
>> hello. I have a blue target with a number under it. I want it to go away

New to me:  https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-sample-point-dialog.html

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Contact Sheet

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/07/2018 10:03 PM, Kevin Cozens wrote:
> On 2018-04-06 05:31 PM, JIM HARASYN wrote:
>> Adobe Photoshop had an option for taking you group of photos and
>> making a contact sheet with them. Does GIMP have that capability? How?
> 
> I wrote a contact sheet program in Script-Fu a long time ago. It used to
> be part of the development releases but was not shipped with GIMP. Some
> people didn't like how it worked. Its probably not even in the
> development version any more as about half the scripts were removed from
> the source tree. If you are interested I'm sure I still have a copy on
> my hard drive somewhere that I can send you.

It's been over a decade since I had occasion to use it, but the
Irfanview photo management tool for Microsoft systems could make contact
sheets with a variety of options for size, captions based on file names,
etc.  Also does some simple editing tasks, generates HTML thumbnail
galleries complete with HTML code, and probably more tricks since then.

"Free for non-commercial use."

https://www.irfanview.com/

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] The GIMP opens in superuser mode

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/06/2018 12:05 AM, Liam R E Quin wrote:
> On Thu, 2018-04-05 at 23:40 -0400, Steve Kinney wrote:
>>
>> On 04/05/2018 09:41 PM, Liam R E Quin wrote:
>>> On Thu, 2018-04-05 at 20:42 -0400, Steve Kinney wrote:
>>>>
>>>> It /should/ be impossible for a program opened by a 'regular'
>>>> user to
>>>> run in superuser mode, unless the regular user enters the root
>>>> password.
>>>
>>> It can happen if the program's binary is owned by the root user and
>>> is
>>> mode u+s (set-userid).
>>>
>>> Liam (ankh)
>>
>> Yikes.
>>
>> One "should" not allow this either, without a very good reason...
> 
> On most user applications, no, although
> ls -l /usr/bin/ | grep '^[^ ]*s' | wc -l
> gives 36 results here (many setgid rather than setuid, and not all
> owned by root, but e.g. su, sudo, umount, all have to be root-owned and
> suid.).
> 
> It's possible to disable set-userid file modes from being respected
> using a mount option, but using that on the system partitions would
> break yuor system.

Ah so.  My comprehension of Linux internals is only rudimentary, but
once pointed out it's obvious that su, sudo and umount would be owned by
root - only root can do the things they enable a user with the root
password to do.

A graphics editor or a wrapper for portable applications?  Not so much.  :D



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Re: [Gimp-user] The GIMP opens in superuser mode

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/05/2018 09:41 PM, Liam R E Quin wrote:
> On Thu, 2018-04-05 at 20:42 -0400, Steve Kinney wrote:
>>
>> It /should/ be impossible for a program opened by a 'regular' user to
>> run in superuser mode, unless the regular user enters the root
>> password.
> 
> It can happen if the program's binary is owned by the root user and is
> mode u+s (set-userid).
> 
> Liam (ankh)

Yikes.

One "should" not allow this either, without a very good reason...

:D


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Re: [Gimp-user] The GIMP opens in superuser mode

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/03/2018 01:47 PM, Leslie Katz wrote:
> Apologies. I couldn't figure out how to reply directly to my own earlier
> message, so I'm doing so by a fresh post with the same title as my
> original post, in case anyone should be helped by my reply.
> 
> The GIMP says in its title bar that it's running in superuser mode, but
> I've now found that it really isn't. Its wrongly saying so is a function
> of its having been installed through flatpak.
> 
> Leslie

Wow, that's kind of scary.  If any doubt remains, I would try to save an
XCF file in a directory users can't write to, say /dev, and see what
happens.

It /should/ be impossible for a program opened by a 'regular' user to
run in superuser mode, unless the regular user enters the root password.
 It that can be done, it means the whole operating system is compromised
and needs reinstalled yesterday if not sooner.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Plugin Request: Voronoi

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/19/2018 12:49 PM, Joao S. O. Bueno wrote:
> I can confirm it built for master with the single change Liam pointed
> out and, but for some warning on deprecated methods, it is  working
> fine.

Shows to go ya how much I know about programming and such.  Thanks for
the info guise, I will have a (very likely successful) 'nother go at it!

:o)




> On 19 January 2018 at 08:03, Shlomi Fish  wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> On Fri, 19 Jan 2018 02:13:19 -0500
>> Liam R E Quin  wrote:
>>
>>> On Fri, 2018-01-19 at 00:21 -0500, Steve Kinney wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The original plugin registry page is in the Wayback Machine, and
>>>> includes source code (one always had to compile this one for use on
>>>> Linux systems, IIRC).
>>>>
>>>> https://tinyurl.com/voronoi-2005
>>>>
>>>> Updating this code to compile a useable GIMP 2.8 plugin is WAY beyond
>>>> my
>>>> capability.  Does anybody out there with the requisite background
>>>> wanna have a go at it?
>>>
>>> I compiled it (as a regular user, not root) and it seemed to work
>>> unchanged.
>>>
>>> I got the source from
>>> http://web.archive.org/web/20050119065043/http://trific.ath.cx:80/Ftp/gimp/voronoi/voronoi-2.2.tar.bz2
>>> and unpacked it with
>>> tar jxvf voronoi-2.2.tar.bz2
>>>
>>
>> in addition, there seems to be a maintenance version of it here -
>> https://github.com/maz-1/gimp-voronoi . Found it here:
>> https://duckduckgo.com/?q=gimp+voronoi&ia=software
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> -
>> Shlomi Fish   http://www.shlomifish.org/
>> https://is.gd/MQHVF3 - The Atom Text Editor edits a 2,000,001B file
>>
>> Larry Wall dreams in Perl.
>> — http://www.shlomifish.org/humour/bits/facts/Larry-Wall/
>>
>> Please reply to list if it's a mailing list post - http://shlom.in/reply .
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[Gimp-user] Plugin Request: Voronoi

[Steve Kinney]

Hey folks,

Once upon a time, I got a /lot/ of mileage out of a GIMP plugin called
Voronoi.  I was described at the plugin registry site as:

"The ultimate Gimp pattern generator. Technically it generates 2D
Voronoi diagrams of various semi-random sets of points and then
visualizes them somehow."

I agree with the "ultimate" part, and the "visualizes them somehow" bit
refers to a fair sized set of easily adjustable options making it a very
flexible general purpose cell-based texture generator.

The Voronoi plugin went unmaintained years ago.  I periodically search
for replacements, with no luck:  Some current filters use voronoi based
functions but not in any way that resembles the pattern generator
described above.

The original plugin registry page is in the Wayback Machine, and
includes source code (one always had to compile this one for use on
Linux systems, IIRC).

https://tinyurl.com/voronoi-2005

Updating this code to compile a useable GIMP 2.8 plugin is WAY beyond my
capability.  Does anybody out there with the requisite background wanna
have a go at it?

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] exchange color range to change tint

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/18/2017 10:38 AM, ottenm wrote:
> rich404!  Can't thank you enough!
> 
> Here's the steps I'm following:
> 
> Colors > Desaturate > Luminosity
> Layer > New Layer > Transparency
> Select foreground color > bucket fill
> Window > Dockable Dialogs > Layers > adjust opacity and mode for this layer
> (both at the top) to:
>Overlay, Screen, Addition, Hard light, Grain merge
> 
> Great results overall.  Struggling to create some brighter spheres as the
> desaturated originall image is very dark/black (so even if I foreground a 
> bright
> color, it darkens significantly as I bring in the other layer).  Have tried
> tweaking the brightness and contrast on the desaturated original, but the
> reflection spots blur and loose definition.
> 
> Still, had none of that in my original question and your answer really 
> helped. 
> Would never have found it on my own.  Thank you!

Here's another function to check out:  Open your original image and
switch on the Hue/Saturation tool.  Click on the image and in the
toolbox that opens, give the Hue slider a try.  It seems to do a very
good job here, with the first sample image you provided.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] no fonts in folder in contents

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/17/2018 04:57 AM, Terry50 wrote:
>> You need an OSX user to give a proper answer.
>>
>> Gimp does not come with any fonts. It uses the fonts installed in the
>> system, which might be very many. In linux I can disable many of the
>> never-used fonts to reduce the number seen by Gimp.
>>
>> This is reasonably up-to-date and might give a clue to a suitable font
>> manager.  (w*w*w.jklstudios.com/misc/osxfonts.html un-mux the url - it
>> kicked in some sort of protection by the forum software)
>>
>> Any fonts that *only* you will only use with Gimp should go in your
>> gimp profile. Something like /Users/MyName/Library/Application
>> Support/Gimp/2.8/fonts if that is what is used these days.
> 
> Thank you :>)

Another thing to look at:  In the GIMP do Edit > Preferences, and pop
open the Folders item.  Click on Fonts and a list of the directories the
GIMP looks for fonts in is presented.  I have "way too many" fonts on my
workstation, so I deleted all but the GIMP's own font folder from the
list, then copied all I fonts I do want the GIMP to see into the
.../gimp-2.8/fonts folder.

I presume the configuration menu in the OSX version of the GIMP should
be very similar to the one described above.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] At 100%, my selection hasn't the size it should have

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/04/2018 12:04 PM, qsdqsd wrote:
>> First and most important. Gimp is a raster editor and works in pixels.
>> It can show cms as units for your convenience, but it still works in
>> pixels.
> 
> When I use the scale tool, I can see the dimension in pixels of my selection. 
> I
> can also switch the unit and see measurement in mm. When printing this image,
> will I get the mm annouced in Image --> scale image ? Which are the same seen
> with the scale tool by the way. Because if I get what I have at the screen, it
> will be much smaller.
> Indeed, taking off the dot for dot, changes quite a lot the visual dimension.
> And it is much closer but still different...
> The screen resolution seems to be good though... I don't understand the
> difference between the image properties and the measurement on the screen...

When editing images for print, step one is to decide what the size in
inches or cm the printed image will be, and the resolution needed in
pixels per inch or cm.  Multiply the physical size of the finished
printed image by the desired resolution, to find the height and width in
/pixels/ of the image file you need to create.  From that point on,
forget that "inches" or "centimeters" exist.

Typically, high resolution color printing is done at 300 DPI (or more),
while lower resolution black and white printing is typically done at 150
DPI.  These are general rules only, but they do give good results in
most applications.

Example:  Editing a photo that will be 4 x 6 inches on the printed page,
you might want 300 dpi resolution if it's a color image that will be
printed on glossy paper.  4 x 300 = 1200, 6 x 300 = 1800, so your
finished image will be 1200 x 1800 pixels in size.  Once you have
calculated the height and width in pixels, you can forget that inches
exist: 1200 x 1800 is the size of the finished image as seen by your
image editor.

Example 2:  Editing a photo that will be 4 x 6 inches on the printed
page, you might want 150 dpi resolution if it's going to be printed in
black & white on regular paper.  4 x 150 = 600, 6 x 150 = 900, so your
finished image will be 600 x 900 in size.  As before, once you have
calculated the height and width in pixels you can forget that inches
exist:  600 x 900 is the size of the finished image as seen by your
image editor.

Editing images for screen display (photos for display on web pages,
etc.), physical measurement units do not matter at all, just the height
and width in pixels.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Quality loss when reducing the dimensions of my image

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/04/2018 12:39 PM, qsdqsd wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> 
> I was wondering if it was normal to see a loss of quality after reducing an
> image with Image --> scale image or with the (Shift+T) tool.
> I can see more blur. A less define edge.
> 
> I thought a quality loss never happened when reducing an image but when
> increasing it size..

When increasing the size of an image (in pixels), the averages adjacent
pixels together as necessary to spread the same pattern across a larger
number of pixels.  This does produce a visible blurring effect where the
original had sharp edges.

When scaling down, the pixels along high contrast edges in an image are
again averaged together, but because the visible size of the affected
areas is decreased the loss of resolution is not as visible. But if you
"zoom in" and look at the image at the same size (in cm on screen) as it
was before scaling down, the loss of resolution will be visible.

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] Shadows/Highlights

[Steve Kinney]

I should have mentioned:  Tested and works in GIMP 2.8.10

The menu item is at:  ScriptFu > Contrast

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Shadows/Highlights - DOWNLOAD HERE

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/02/2018 09:32 PM, Guy Stalnaker wrote:

>> sorry, no it doesn't work here either.

Probably not working anywhere, the latest version of the "script" stored
at archive.org is a page from 2016 saying "file not found"

But, nyah ha, on August 12, 2014 the Archive found and stored the
original script.  Download here:

https://tinyurl.com/shadow-recovery

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] Can't copy and paste into same layer?

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/01/2018 01:21 PM, Maisie wrote:
> Ok, so I figured out how to paste a floating layer onto an existing layer - 
> but
> it becomes a part of the layer and I can't move it around anymore. I thought I
> saw in another paid program the ability to move multiple objects around in a
> single layer - is that not possible with the gimp? Seems like a basic function
> to me that is a huge time saver is lacking - having to mouse into each layer
> before you move an object is really frustrating and time consuming

I believe the closest thing you will find to what you are looking for in
the GIMP is the layer groups function:

https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-layer-groups.html

I use this feature a lot - it allows you to create groups of layers that
behave /somewhat/ as if they were a single layer with separately
moveable parts (each an actual layer) that one can apply filters, layer
modes, partial transparency, layer masks etc. to as needed.

As mentioned earlier, the tool sets and workflow in the GIMP are
radically different from those in Photoshop - these tools have followed
separate evolutionary tracks and although they produce the same end
results, the ways of getting there may not be similar at all.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Shadows/Highlights

[Steve Kinney]

On 01/02/2018 01:58 PM, Julie Bennett wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I'm relatively new to GIMP and Ubuntu.  I am moving away from using 
> photoshop/windows.  I'm a life long photographer and have developed a work 
> flow in photoshop.
> With learning the structure of GIMP, I'm of course wanting to recreate my 
> work flow.
> 
> The one feature of photoshop I have come to rely on heavily is the 
> Shadows/Highlights function.  It is extremely important to me.
> With it I can adjust and preserve the detail in shadow and highlight areas of 
> an image to approximate what I actually saw.
>  
> But, I can't seem to find something similar in Gimp.  Can someone point me to 
> the area of Gimp that may provide this?
> 
> Thanks in advance  

Hey Julie,

The Shadow Recovery script-fu plugin may be helpful:

http://www.gimphelp.org/scripts/contrast_shadow_recovery.shtml

You will most likely find yourself looking for tools in the GIMP that
aren't there, because it evolved separately from Photoshop and the
workflow for most tasks is just plain different.  That has been my
experience from the other side, as a long time GIMP users experimenting
with Photoshop.

The GIMP will get the job done, once you get used to it.  Initially you
will be reading a lot of tutorials and watching a lot of videos.
Reading through the online (or local) manual and taking notes where and
as "aha!" moments arrive would also be helpful.

You already found out where to ask questions when you get stuck.

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] Can't insert text in text box, draws box but insists on 0 pixels or pts.

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/17/2017 04:04 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Sunday 17 December 2017 15:13:33 Gene Heskett wrote:


> Ok, got a text inserted, but the pencil is best described as out of lead, 
> small circle I can wave around to amuse myself, but pressing the left 
> mouse button for freehand drawing does not draw anything, anyplace, in 
> any selected color, size or weight..
> 
> I'll try the paintbrush. Nope, paintbrush is out of paint.
> 
> Next?

It's possible that you are trying to paint on a part of a layer where
there is nothing to paint on:  The text layer.  So the next thing to try
might be to make a new layer (default is transparent), and have a go at
painting on that.

It will be helpful to get familiar with the manual; here's a good
starting point, identifying all the major menus and etc.:

https://docs.gimp.org/2.8/en/gimp-concepts-main-windows.html

When I set up the GIMP it don't look nothing like that, but some of the
ideas presented in my tutorial - especially with regard to work flow
i.e. saving and exporting files, may be helpful.  Also the links at the
bottom of the page.

http://pilobilus.net/gimp_tutorial.html

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] Can't insert text in text box, draws box but insists on 0 pixels or pts.

[Steve Kinney]

Has anybody seen or heard of the behavior described below (multi-broken
text tool, bizarre 'pencil' tool behavior)?  It's all new to me.

My first suggestion would be to remove the GIMP, rename or delete the
.gimp file in the /home directory, and install the latest available
version from the repos.  Because I don't /think/ anything external to
the GIMP itself could cause those diverse failure modes.

:o/

On 12/16/2017 08:54 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
> 
> debian wheezy, up to date as of right now. gimp-2.8.2
> 
> I call up gimp to add some arrows and text boxes to some pix I want to 
> use in an article for the linuxcnc wiki.
> 
> I load the pix, then select the big A in the single column, screen+ 
> height tool list, (I could mutter at length about that) set the font to 
> hack bold, and its size to 64 pixels. Then go click on the spot I want 
> the text to start at. get a 4square box, and what I thought was the text 
> entry requester just above it.
> 
> But no matter what I type in what I think is the text entry window of a 
> teeny requester, the 4 adjoining squares indicating where the text 
> should go, remain stuck to each other and it doesn't help to pull it out 
> for what should be a suitably sized box, nothing shows up, and the 
> duplicate text size selection stays at zero. And if I hover the mouse 
> over that box it tells me its for font adjustments. So I crank the 
> multiselector to 64 pixels, re-enter hack bold in the box of the 
> requester then click on the pix and once I was able to see the 3 three 
> characters I typed, but if I leave that area of the pix to click on an 
> increase or decrease arrow make the text larger or smaller, everything 
> is cleared and the font is reset to sans 18, and the text that was 
> visible is cleared, so nothing actually makes it into the picture and 
> even the undo selector stays greyed out.
> 
> What the hell folks? Why is it so adamant about the font being sans and 
> size 0 or 18 despite what I have set, and why can't I go back and forth, 
> adjusting it to do what I want without its clearing out all previous 
> settings, including reverting the box I drug out to a suitable size back 
> to the 4square target.
> 
> So I'm again lost, have to learn how to use gimp all over again. How 
> about a stable interface, one that works like it did 15 years ago, and 
> works the same this year, and works the same next year?
> 
> So how DO I insert caption text into a picture with this 2.8.2 version?
> 
> Next I suppose I get the text installed, then try to draw a freehand 
> arrow connecting the text to the part being discussed in the 
> accompanying text, and find that been changed too?
> Just to check, the pencil only has one color, random. Set it for 50% 
> transparency and draw, looks line a line of spilled glitter, each pixel 
> a different color.  Spit, undo.
> 
> Sheesh.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> 
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Re: [Gimp-user] Photoshop FYI

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/10/2017 04:58 PM, Elle Stone wrote:
> On 12/10/2017 04:20 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:
>>
>>
>> On 12/08/2017 11:00 AM, Amira_Cervantes wrote:
>>>> Chromebook photoshop cloud soon.  Photoshop in Chrome Ubuntu next
>>>> year.
>>>
>>> Adobe Photoshop Is also Coming To Linux, Through Chromebooks ...
>>> sounds great!
>>
>> I'm sure its parents are very proud.
> 
> Its parents should be ashamed:

Maybe, but I think their occupational choices indicate that they are not
capable of understanding the bluntly obvious antisocial implications of
cultivating a user base of clueless suckers and abusing their lack of
technical and practical smarts to the breaking point.

This perspective reveals the abusers in the equation as meta-losers at
the game of life.  People who adhere to the maxim "Whoever dies with the
most toys wins," will discover too late that whoever dies with the most
toys loses everything they ever really cared about.

:o/

> Google:
> 
> http://www.zdnet.com/article/google-invading-student-privacy-with-chromebooks-eff/
> 
> http://news.softpedia.com/news/eff-says-google-chromebooks-are-still-spying-on-students-515015.shtml
> 
> Adobe:
> 
>     Adobe Creative Cloud: Lopsided Legal Agreement
> https://macperformanceguide.com/blog/2013/20130508_1a-Adobe-legal-agreement.html
> 
> 
>     What happens to my work when I cancel my subscription?
> https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1206477?start=0&tstart=0
> 
> 
> Elle
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Re: [Gimp-user] Photoshop FYI

[Steve Kinney]

On 12/08/2017 11:00 AM, Amira_Cervantes wrote:
>> Chromebook photoshop cloud soon.  Photoshop in Chrome Ubuntu next
>> year.
> 
> Adobe Photoshop Is also Coming To Linux, Through Chromebooks ... sounds great!

I'm sure its parents are very proud.

:D
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Re: [Gimp-user] problems with understand how to resize images properly

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/20/2017 09:05 AM, menglor wrote:
> Good Day!
> 
> I am a newbie learner to “” and I am trying to accomplish a series of steps, 
> but
> things just don’t seem to work out for me.
> 
> I have 2 problems, well more but I wont go into everything 
> 
> - Basically   I am trying to import a picture of varing sizes, and then 
> resize
> them to fit a specific size.
> 
> For example,  I am importing an image  that is 5” x 3”,   and wanting to print
> it on a label,
> So I need to be able to copy it out of GIMP, and past it into a Avery Shipping
> Label template in Word.
> 
> I have been a little successful, but I am having issues with the sizes 
> changing.

Hi menglor,

The process you describe will give you images of different sizes if the
originals have different DPI values, because when you scale an image to
be a certain number of inches in size, the GIMP looks at the DPI
resolution of the image first, then scales the image to be X number of
pixels wide/tall based on that DPI and the physical dimensions you specify.

Example:  A 300 DPI image scaled to 1" x 1" will come out 300 pixels
wide.  A 150 DPI image scaled to 1" x 1" will come out 150 pixels wide -
half "size" of the 300 DPI one.

Scaling images by adjusting their size in inches (or centimeters, etc.)
is rarely done.  Useful results require resetting the DPI of images as
necessary, so a set of images of the same size in inches, cm or etc.
will also be the same size in pixels.

Or can multiply the size in inches of the output images you want by the
DPI you want, to get the correct dimensions in pixels for /all/ the
images intended to be the same size when printed.  From that point on,
you can just scale your whole batch of images to the same size in pixels
and ignore the size "in inches."

The DPI setting in an image is only a number recorded in the file
header; changing the DPI of an image changes nothing but that one
number, and as far as I know it does not affect the actual or displayed
/ printed size of the image, except when scaling the image in an editor
like the GIMP.

Typical DPI values:

300 DPI for high quality print
150 DPI for office documents etc. where "good enough is good enough"
96 DPI for on-screen display
72 DPI - a legacy default setting based on printers' "point" size

Note that doubling the DPI of an image while maintaining the same print
size when scaling, multiplies the size of the resulting file on disk by
about 4x.  Exporting images in lossless PNG format (vs. lossy JPG) for
maximum print quality also creates much larger file sizes on disk.  So
big, high quality print jobs can take up a lot of space in storage or
time in transit across the network.

You also mentioned printing via a Word document, and that the sizes you
get are a little off.  I think that's to be expected, because word
processors were not intended for "pre-press" work, a.k.a. printing
images with high accuracy.

I use Scribus, a Free desktop publishing application, for pre-press
work.  Make your images, put them on the page exactly where you want
them, export the file as PDF and print that:  Viola, accurate results.

For really precise positioning on page, i.e. when printing on peel and
stick label stock or etc., it may be necessary to print a test page,
measure any placement errors, and adjust the Scribus master document to
get your required results from that particular printer.

https://www.scribus.net/

:o)



> Steps I am completing.
> 
> 1-Open Image.
> 2-Click menu “Image”  and then click Scale image
> 3-I assign the Size height as  1.30 inches  (because of the linked 
> reference,
> width defaults to  2.0 inches ISH
> 4-Resolution seems to imply its  76 x 76
> 5-And it seems like it works, though when I COPY and paste into Word and 
> print.
> The size is a little off.
> 
> However, I went on to the next picture, which ultimately was a desktop  image 
> , 
> I completed the following
> 
> 1-Open Image.
> 2-Click menu “Image”  and then click Scale image
> 3-I assign the Size height as  1.30 inches  (because of the linked 
> reference,
> width defaults to  2.0 inches ISH
> 4-Resolution seems to imply its  560 x 560  (don’t have the real numbers 
> handy)
> 5-Then I copy it , and then Paste into Word.
> 6-When I look at the image in my template  the image height should be 
> 1.3, but
> its about 2.3.  and the width is also messed up.
> 
> I am confused. If I tell them image to be 1.3  why is it not listening?   I
> understand there is a setting called Print size somewhere, but I am trying to
> make the image  Size X, but something else is getting in the way.
> 
> 
> I am hoping someone can give me an answer,  or maybe point me to a Youtube 
> video
> that goes over it.   I have watched about 6-8 tutorials, but I cant find
> anything that  goes into that whole aspect of


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Re: [Gimp-user] Page Setup

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/16/2017 07:23 AM, NicPic wrote:
> I want to print an image 277mm long on an A4 sheet. At that length it has to 
> be
> in Landscape orientation, otherwise it won't accept me subsequently 
> specifying a
> printed image length of 277mm under File > Print. Many times I've sorted this 
> by
> File > Page Setup > check "Landscape", (prior to File > Print > choosing
> settings). Now all of a sudden, if I check "Landscape" in Page Setup and hit 
> OK,
> the dialog box disappears, but if I then go back into it it's put the check
> button back to "Portrait" (and it  does this for other settings experimentally
> changed inside the same box). Is there some obscure setting hiding elsewhere 
> in
> GIMP that explains this? Can anyone help, it's totally baffling. BTW yes I've
> uninstalled GIMP 2.8 and reinstalled it, clearled Browsing History / Cookies,
> Restarted PC etc. Windows 7 Ultimate if that's relevant.

When reinstalling a program on Windows 7 to get rid of a configuration
error or a glitch in a configuration file, first "uninstall" the
program, then find the folder where the program stores its data and
delete that folder before reinstalling the program.

http://www.blogtechnika.com/what-is-application-data-folder-in-windows-7/

(or) https://tinyurl.com/lqgtgyn

I'm not sure that will help in your present situation, but if the
problem is an error of some kind in a GIMP configuration file, deleting
the folder the config files live in before reinstalling should fix it.


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Re: [Gimp-user] How to process photos that center exactly on photo paper standard sizes.

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/06/2017 01:44 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:
> 
> 
> On 11/05/2017 11:11 PM, Notarobot wrote:
>> Apparently, no one on the internet knows the answer to this, nor does anyone 
>> on
>> this board..
> 
> Don't give up on us quite yet.  :)
> 
> For print applications the general rule is to make finished image files
> 300 DPI @ whatever size the finished product will be, to assure clean
> clear results.  Example:  A finished image for print that is 3" x 5"
> should be 900 x 1500 pixels.  In some cases you will be able to get
> acceptable results at lower resolution - for instance images for use in
> word processing documents are often made @ 150 DPI.

I forgot to mention:  Export your images for print in PNG format.  This
gives you /reasonably/ small files with no loss of resolution.  Other
compressed formats like JPG are "lossy" and introduce noise into the
image, even at a "100%" quality setting.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] How to process photos that center exactly on photo paper standard sizes.

[Steve Kinney]

On 11/05/2017 11:11 PM, Notarobot wrote:
> Apparently, no one on the internet knows the answer to this, nor does anyone 
> on
> this board..

Don't give up on us quite yet.  :)

For print applications the general rule is to make finished image files
300 DPI @ whatever size the finished product will be, to assure clean
clear results.  Example:  A finished image for print that is 3" x 5"
should be 900 x 1500 pixels.  In some cases you will be able to get
acceptable results at lower resolution - for instance images for use in
word processing documents are often made @ 150 DPI.

To position your images on the page for printing, don't use the GIMP.
Judging by what I have read on the list, GIMP print settings work on
some systems but not others, and when it does not the problem involves
print drivers or etc. that are beyond the GIMP's control.  I suspect
that this issue gets low priority, because most GIMP users either aren't
making images for print purposes, or use a desktop publishing
application for page layout.

Try Scribus, a free desktop publishing application.  Create a document
with the page size you will be printing on, import your processed photo
and put it wherever you want on the page.  When you get it "just right"
save that file (you can use it as a template for quick e-z processing of
other photos the same size), then export the file into PDF format.
Print from the PDF file and viola, reliable results from any printer.

https://www.scribus.net/

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=scribus+tutorial

Scribus produces results accurate enough to print on label sheets, where
the tolerance for size and position is a millimeter or so.

:o)





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Re: [Gimp-user] Need Help Matching Hair

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/28/2017 03:32 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:
> 

I failed to mention:  Use the Alt key + Scroll wheel on your mouse to
zoom in and out while you're working.  Sometimes you need The Big
Picture, sometimes you need small details made huge.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Need Help Matching Hair

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/28/2017 09:41 AM, SpiritWhispers wrote:
> HI. I don't know much about photo editing so here's my question. How can I get
> these three images of hair to match? I need the second and third to match the
> first so I can add and extend the hair length. The hair in the first image was
> cut off by the picture-taker, so I need to add some hair to it. Please help.
> Thanks so much!!!
> 
> Attachments:
> * http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/726/original/FirstHairImage.png
> * http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/727/original/20171028_002613.jpg
> * http://www.gimpusers.com/system/attachments/728/original/20171027_114122.jpg

Hair is a canonical "hard problem" in digital graphics, but fortunately
that does not seem to apply in the case at hand:  The big problems arise
when hair is thinly scattered over Background A and you need it to be on
Background B which is very different in color, light, etc. from the
natural Backgound A.  Lucky break, the hair in the images above does not
seem to present that problem.

Fist thing I would do is open the image with the "cut" hair in the GIMP,
drag and drop to open the replacement/extension hair on a new layer
above that one, and dial the new layer's opacity back to about 50%.
Then I would drag and rotate the "new" hair layer as required to align
it with the "cut" hair image, and scale it to match.  When a close
enough match accomplished, save the work in progress as an XCF file and
move on to stage two.

Make the new hair layer fully opaque (i.e. visible), add a layer mask
(see Layers dialog dock) and fill the new mask with gray, about midway
between black and white.  This will make the top layer about 50%
transparent, but with a big difference:  Paining with white while the
mask is selected will make the new layer fully visible just where you
want it to be, painting with black will "erase" the new layer from the
image without actually deleting the pixels in question.  The beauty
part:  You can "bring back" bits of the layer made invisible by adding
black to the mask, by adding white to the same part of the mask.

When something close to an acceptable blending of the new hair into the
cut hair is done, save your work again and move on to stage three.

In the layers dialog, left-click on your top layer and select "New from
visible."  Make sure the new layer is selected, then switch on the
Smudge tool, get an appropriate brush, and start smearing and blending
where new hair joins cut hair.  With any luck, acceptable results should
only take a few minutes.

If you were working with higher resolution color images, this could be a
very difficult and time consuming task.  But the sample images provided
suggest that combining them as required should not present any big
obstacles.  If you're new to this, finding the tools mentioned above and
learning how they work should not be hard, search on this page as
necessary:  https://docs.gimp.org/2.8/en/

When you get this job done, you will be well on your way to knowing much
more about photo editing, in the sense of being able to do things that
amaze the general public - because they don't know how easy those things
are.

:o)




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[Gimp-user] Brush resize via mouse wheel is fail on Microsoft OS

[Steve Kinney]

Hey y'all,

I'm thinking about filing a bug report on this, as I don't find it on
the tracker.  Does anyone know if it's already a known issue?

I use a small set of VBR brushes, with the GIMP configured to resize
them in response to Alt-Scroll, where scrolling the mouse wheel makes
the brush larger or smaller; and I configure Ctrl-Alt-Scroll to adjust
brush hardness up and down.  This functionality is a huge part of my
workflow, especially when editing photographs. I rarely use any other
brushes.

Recent GIMP versions in the Debian related repos have all done this as
expected, but I recently set up the latest stable GIMP for Windows on a
Windows 10 workstation, and these commands are a no-go there:  A
notification in the status bar indicates the VBR brushes are being
resized when I do the thing, but the brush size on canvas does not
actually change.  Keyboard + mouse wheel also fails to change VBR brush
hardness.

The things that don't work are described here:

https://docs.gimp.org/en/gimp-using-variable-size-brush.html

http://www.gimpusers.com/forums/gimp-user/17876-changing-the-brush-sizes

I will note down the details - OS and GIMP versions etc. - next time I
am at the office where the computer in question lives, and file a bug
report.  Unless somebody already has by then.

:o/








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Re: [Gimp-user] ANNOUNCE: GIMP 2.9.6 released

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/25/2017 05:16 AM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:
> 24 окт. 2017 г. 22:23 пользователь "mgroothuis" написал:
> 
> Hi, I installed 2.9.6 then proceeded to get my Tools Configuration set up
> the
> way I was used to, but I find that some of my trusty old functions can no
> longer
> be put in the Toolbox. I seldom use Threshold, but often can be seen
> fiddling
> with Hue and Saturation, but sadly the latter seems to have dropped of the
> list
> of possible selections.
> Any chance it will come back
> 
> 
> Probably not. It's not a tool anymore.
> 
> or better still, any chance that ultimately we
> will be able to put there whatever we want to be at our fingertips?
> 
> 
> Maybe. However you can assign to it any keyboard shortcut you want.

Well damn.  Whether Hue/Saturation is called a "tool" or not, taking it
out of the Tools menu will indeed make me assign it a keyboard shortcut.
 It won't be too painful though - Ctrl-Alt-C is assigned to canvas size
by default.  I didn't even know that till right now, and "C for Color"
couldn't be much more intuitive, so - that's a relief.

:D


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Re: [Gimp-user] GIMP name, icon and general graphic look

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/20/2017 11:41 AM, Ross Martinek wrote:

> As for Wilbur, I, too, thought he looked a bit silly at first. Now I love the 
> sight of him. He isn’t merely a mascot, or a logo. He’s an Icon, as in 
> “Cultural Icon.” Put another way: “If you don’t use GIMP, you’re too wealthy 
> to call yourself an artist!” (You’re supposed to laugh, here. It’s a play on 
> the iconic “starving artist.")
> 
> Stop fussing about what the paint brush looks like. Go thou and create 
> something beautiful.

Right on.  I'm glad to see that proposals for fidget changes, for the
sake of change itself, don't seem to get much traction here.  As a long
time student of propaganda and marketing (same thing) I would consider
dumping Wilbur and anonymizing the GIMP logo as brand suicide moves.

Off topic for the thread:  The GIMP splash screen includes a progress
indicator showing the GIMP scanning all its optional/variable parts to
build its menus and stuff every time it is started.  On older, slower
hardware that takes a lng time.

I would like to see an option to toggle that process off and on, by
saving the configuration data on exit, and reloading it when/as a "fast
start" mode was enabled by the user.

As a possible default solution, a faster scanning process that only
looks for changes in relevant directories could trigger a "real scan and
reload" of all the variable parts, only where and as a change (new,
missing or different sized files in any relevant directory) is detected
by comparison of file names and sizes.

In the event of abnormal termination a flag indicating failure to shut
down in an orderly manner - some dinky file that gets written at the end
of successful program start, and deleted after writing out the
configuration files during shutdown - could trigger a full rescan if
present on start.  This same process could be invoked by the user though
a "reload all plugins and resources" command, which would restart the
GIMP without setting the flag indicating a successful last shutdown.

Has this been discussed before (I bet it has) and if so where should I look?

Over the years I have spent a lot of time looking at GIMP splash screens
when I could have been loading up image files and tweaking on them.  The
process that causes that does make perfect sense, but IMO so would some
attention to shortening it when and as practicable.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Adding color to file

[Steve Kinney]

On 10/05/2017 03:02 PM, sl60 wrote:
> I want to color parts of what has been sent to me as a black-and-white pdf 
> (line
> drawing, basically). What I usually do in a case like this is to change the
> original layer to Multiply, then duplicate this and multiply again. Then I
> select each part of the drawing I want to color and bucket fill it (different
> colors for each). if I save this as a pdf and open it, all it shows is the
> colors without the line drawing. if I save it as a png, all is preserved.
> 
> My question is--should I save the pdf as a png or jpeg first before I start 
> the
> entire process? It's a very low resolution drawing. Or does it matter? It's a
> big file (the original is on a 24"x36" sheet and it will probably be printed 
> out
> at some point).

I would start by importing the page with the drawing in qustion into the
GIMP, after doing a little math to determine what size to make the
imported page to obtain about 300 DPI at the expected print size of the
finished work, when the page is cropped to the image.  Then I would crop
the imported page to the image, scale it to its finished size @ 300 DPI,
and proceed from there.

Your coloring method sounds effective to me.  In some cases you might
want to use two very similar colors with the Gradient tool to get
variable effects within the given boundary, but that may not be relevant
to the work at hand.

When finished I would (of course!) save the image in XCF format in case
it needs any adjustments in the future, then export it to PNG format for
delivery, unless another format has been specified.  Making the exported
image's background transparent assures no problems with matching the
background color of the page or etc. when it's printed, or you might
want a specific background color.  Either way, PNG will do the deed,
without noise from lossy compression.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] How to do a simple erase

[Steve Kinney]

On 09/20/2017 03:53 PM, Ofnuts wrote:
> On 09/20/17 21:47, The Tick wrote:

>> How do I do a simple "erase" like other paint programs where I just
>> drag the mouse and the area under the brush is totally erased?
>>
>> Googling for "erase leaves stairstep" and other searches I tried led
>> nowhere.
>> ___ 
> 
> Check the brush spacing and set it to a very small value. Using a round
> brush would still be better. You can make a "hard" round brush in the
> brush editor (but IIRC there is one in the standard brushes
> ("Hardness-100").

While we are on the subject of brushes, here's something you might find
useful:  A small set of variable (.vbr) brushes including a square one,
and instructions on how to set program options so you can change their
size and hardness on the fly using a couple of keyboard + mouse wheel
commands.  I am so used to them that I would be "lost without them."

This archived post has instructions for configuring the keyboard + mouse
wheel commands, and a download link for the brushes themselves:

https://tinyurl.com/variable-brushes

When the available command to change between brushes via keyboard +
mouse commands gets fixed (the end of the menu list is a one way trap,
go past it and you can not get back to where you were without cycling
through /all/ the brushes), it will no longer be necessary to even look
at the brushes menu except on special occasions.  But that's a separate
issue and I have not even looked to see if there's an outstanding bug
report.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Changing the text on this image

[Steve Kinney]

On 08/29/2017 04:40 PM, Rick Strong wrote:
> Hi Dave,
> 
> You are probably aware that the yellow background of the button is not a
> solid colour but a gradient of light yellow to dark yellow, top to bottom.
> 
> The colour picker tool will tell you which two colours they are. So, you
> will most likely need two layers: one on top with the new gradient and
> no type and another on top of that with your new word rotated and in
> 2-point perspective.

Another thing to try would be to carefully select the black text with
the Lasso tool, and do Filters > Enhance > Heal Selection.  In the
filter dialog, set the tool to sample out to a a five (not the default
50) pixel radus; sample from "all around" and fill "inward toward
center."  When the filter is done (this should be quick), any
irregularities in the color gradient can be smoothed out with the Smudge
tool.

I just did that to the image you provided and got a very acceptable result.

Note:  When making the initial selection with the lasso tool, zoom /way/
in and make sure to enclose all the little "checkerboard" pixels around
the black letters (JPG compression noise) in your selectin.  Play
connect-the-dots with your mouse to get more precise results with the lasso.

There's always at least three ways to do anything in the GIMP:  The way
you did it, the way somebody else did it, and the ever-elusive actually
best way.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Help with enhancing a profile picture

[Steve Kinney]

On 08/17/2017 02:57 PM, chrisj wrote:
> I morphed a face image with another one, to get a unique face, because I 
> didn't
> want my actual face to be the profile picture on the social website page.
>
> But it doesn't look as clear as other pictures on the site. 
>
> Would anyone like to see if they can improve it for me?
>
> In the world of tagging faces, I really don't want to attach it here for
> eternity.
>
> Can I discuss this with someone in a PM?

Working blind here, but a few suggestions are possible.

Try the Unsharp Mask filter in the Filters > Enhance menu.  It's easy to
overdo, but if you play with the settings you might get something
acceptable. 

You might also want to try some of the filters in the G'MIC package,
such as those under Filters > G'MIC > Details > Sharpen. 

As always, Control+z is your friend:  Back up and try again until you
see something you like. 

Just for fun, you might consider playing around with makeup or grease
paint and using a "real" photo of yourself that automated facial
recognition won't be likely to even recognize as a face. 

https://cvdazzle.com/ 





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Re: [Gimp-user] How to Blur

[Steve Kinney]

On 08/03/2017 12:04 PM, Helmut Jarausch wrote:
> Hi,
> probably this is FAQ but I couldn't find an answer.
> 
> I have a light skirt of a person in foreground in front of a rather dark
> background.
> I have created a selection for the background (using GMIC select
> foreground).
> This selection is not feathered and clearly separates the foreground
> from the background.
> 
> Now I want to blur the background. Unfortunately I get some 'halo'
> around the foreground.
> 'Selective Gaussian Blur' performs better near the boundary of the
> selection but it blurs
> part of the background not enough.

If your foreground content is selected, isolating it from the background
with a layer mask is easy:  Duplicate the layer, right click the new
layer in the Layers dialog, and select "Add layer mask."  Then do Select
> Invert, click on the mask thumbmail in the Layers dock, and drag and
drop black onto the image canvas.  The new layer is now like a stencil:
The foreground is visible, the background transparent.  (You could just
delete everything but the foreground from the layer, but using a mask
enables you to adjust the result if/as necessary by painting on the mask
with white (to restore visibility) or black (to make transparent.)

To prevent a 'halo' effect around the foreground object when blurring
the background layer, you can remove the foreground content from it
before blurring.  Turn visibility of your new layer off, select the
layer below it in the Layers dock, and delete your selected foreground.
(If the "hole" is not transparent after deletion, undo that step, right
click the thumbnail in the Layers dock, do "Add alpha channel" and try
again.)  Once your foreground content is a transparent hole in the
background layer, do Filters > Enhance > Heal selection.  This will
invoke the resynthesizer plugin, and seamlessly replace the "hole" with
a generated pattern based on the surrounding image content. (If your
foreground is 'big' in terms of pixel count, this might take some time.)

Then turn your top layer's visibility back on, blur the layer under it,
and viola:  No halo.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] How do you ddd effects to text?

[Steve Kinney]

On 08/01/2017 04:35 AM, ead wrote:
>> You are still going to have to make a selection somehow and fill that
>> selection. many ways of doing that, I usually go for Layer ->
>> Transparency -> Alpha to Selection on the text layer then apply any
>> colouring on separate layers, keeping the text layer as text.
> 
> Thank you, using The Alpha to Selection option helped me get smooth looking,
> gradient-applied text.

I usually make a duplicate of my text layer, and in the Layers dialog do
"Discard text information."  This leaves a bitmap layer; lock the alpha
channel of the layer and proceed to do Horrible Things to to the text
with gradients or etc.

To outline text, the well hidden "Text to path" command is available by
right clicking the text with the text editor active and a menu with that
item will appear.  Then I add a new transparent layer, and in the Paths
dialog dock, select and stroke the path.  I usually put this layer under
the text layer, as otherwise the visible stroke extends both inside and
outside the visible text, which often makes the text look distorted.

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] Remove Background

[Steve Kinney]

On 07/28/2017 05:08 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:
> 
> 
> On 07/27/2017 11:43 AM, Tom wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>> I need to remove  the white background from a clip art I will be using. Can 
>> GIMP software do this?
> 
> If the background is the only white in the image, you can do:
> 
> Colors > Color to alpha
> 
> That will make the white background transparent in one go.
> 
> If your foreground image does have some white in it, you can select the
> white area(s), followed by Select > Invert.  Then the above command will
> not affect the white bits of the foreground image.

And BTW, if that fails, right click the image thumbnail in the Layers
dialog dock, and make sure the layer has an Alpha channel.  That is
necessary for transparency.



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Re: [Gimp-user] Remove Background

[Steve Kinney]

On 07/27/2017 11:43 AM, Tom wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I need to remove  the white background from a clip art I will be using. Can 
> GIMP software do this?

If the background is the only white in the image, you can do:

Colors > Color to alpha

That will make the white background transparent in one go.

If your foreground image does have some white in it, you can select the
white area(s), followed by Select > Invert.  Then the above command will
not affect the white bits of the foreground image.

:o)




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Re: [Gimp-user] Two Suggestions I want Implemented in Future Release

[Steve Kinney]

On 07/13/2017 01:08 PM, RackAttack wrote:
> I just made an account here, to put forth these two suggestions:
> 
> I use Gimp to "paint" - like computer art.
> 
> And I would like to see this implemented or at least have as a selectable
> option:
> 
> MOUSE WHEEL:
> 
> 1.) The roll in and out feature - I'd rather just have as a "brush thickness"
> feature that I could change on the fly while stroking on the canvas.  In other
> words, the mouse wheel roll in and out which changes the zoom, I'd rather it
> change the brush thickness.  So I could, in the same stroke, apply a line and
> roll the mouse wheel forward for it to be thicker or back to make the line
> thinner.  That would be much more useful than the zoom feature (which I could
> use + or - for very easily already).

THAT we can do right now.  Brush hardness and size can be changed on the
fly with mouse wheel + keyboard commands.  The user does have to
configure them though.  From an earlier message:

A GIMP VBR variable brush scales with "perfect" resolution and has
adjustable hardness because it is a vector, not a bitmap.  The VBR
brushes available in the basic set included with the GIMP did not suit
me, so I made a few of my own:  A circle, four ellipses with different
orientations, a square and a diamond.  Making them with the GIMP brush
editor is trivially easy, but here they are for e-z download and
installation:

http://pilobilus.net/xfer/brushes.png

http://pilobilus.net/xfer/Variable-Brushes.zip

Just extract the brushes into your local ./.gimp2.8/brushes/ directory
(or wherever yours is located), start the GIMP and open the brushes
dialog:  If you have not named any other brushes with strings of leading
zeroes, the seven new variable brushes should be at the top of the list.
(If you want them elsewhere, rename them; the GIMP sorts brushes
alphabetically by file name.)

A set of general purpose GIMP variable brushes is only useful if you can
"vary" them on demand.  For that, configure this:

Go to Edit > Preferences > Input Controllers.  Double click Main Mouse
Wheel in the right pane in the dialog window to open its configuration
dialog.  You can chose other keyboard combinations if desired, these
work well for me:

Find the Scroll Up (Alt) item in the list.  Double click on it to change
the default setting if any, and use the search box to find "Increase
Brush Size."  Double click this item in the list to set it.  The top
dialog box will close, leaving the General - Mouse Wheel one open.

As above, find and set the following options:

Scroll Down (Alt) - Increase Brush Size
Scroll Down (Alt) - Decrease Brush Size
Scroll Up (Ctrl-Alt) - Decrease Hardness
Scroll Down (Ctrl-Alt) - Increase Hardness

That's it:  Close out of the configuration menu and check out the
variable brushes by painting in black on a white canvas:  I find the
keyboard command options I list easy to remember and and use.  Your
mileage may vary and if so, you can choose different keyboard and mouse
wheel combinations.

I find the set of brushes provided above ideal for generic use (round),
getting into tight corners (the ovals), and following rectilinear
contours (the square & diamond).  You may want different brushes; check
out the GIMP brush editor and soon you will be making variable brushes
suited to your unique needs.

> 2.)  Some mice have either a mouse wheel that can "tilt" (click 
> side-to-side). 
> For that feature, I'd like it to change the brush angle.  If some people who 
> do
> not have a tilt-wheel mouse, maybe you can use extra buttons like the browser
> forward or browser back buttons that appear on some mice as an alternative 
> brush
> angle selector for those without a tilt-wheel mouse.

That one's beyond scope for me; I rarely even play with brush dynamics.
But the VBR brush set mentioned above may be of some use.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Certification plans

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/19/2017 01:06 PM, Steve Kinney wrote:
> Here's one:
> 
> https://learning.naukri.com/gimp-tutorial-certification-course-v272
> 
> Daniel Smith pointed it out in a reply that came to me but not the list;
> that might have been an error.
> 
> It looks legit to me; the course outline is more or less what I would
> have come up with if asked to design one.
> 
> :o)

We should also mentioned Scribus, the major Free Software desktop
publishing application.  IMO a GIMP user certification program should
include a unit on using Scribus:  Unless an image is intended for use on
a website or in a word processor document, page layout and export to a
print ready file format (normally PDF) is the necessary final stage of
image production, even if only to test color rendering and make "contact
sheet" indexes of finished images.  Scribus is very simple and easy to
use, although as with any tool it takes a little tinkering and getting
used to.

I should also mention Inkscape, the major Free Software vector graphics
editor.  Applications for vector graphic formats include offset
printing, posters and signage, and any context where really precise
manipulation of text (font) content or line drawings is needed.  Vector
format image content scales to any size with no loss of resolution,
hence the name of the SVG "scalable vector graphic" file format.  Image
content that is frequently reused in many contexts, i.e. company logos,
should be designed as vector graphics to begin with; otherwise, it will
be necessary to re-create them as such sooner or later.  Inkscape can
export vector images to PNG, JPG, EPS, etc.

This online program offers a "certificate of completion" that makes it
the closest thing to Inkscape user certification I found in a quick web
search:

http://www.trainingcenter.com/inkscape

Anyone who can only edit raster graphics (i.e. GIMP) or vector graphics
(i.e. Inkscape) is only half a general purpose graphics production worker.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] Certification plans

[Steve Kinney]

Here's one:

https://learning.naukri.com/gimp-tutorial-certification-course-v272

Daniel Smith pointed it out in a reply that came to me but not the list;
that might have been an error.

It looks legit to me; the course outline is more or less what I would
have come up with if asked to design one.

:o)



On 06/19/2017 12:03 PM, mikolaskova wrote:
> Thank you for your answers. I'm asking because the question showd up in our
> project- 
> the people are used to let themselves certify in order to increase job
> chances in case of changing working place.
> 
> The question was: if we switch to GIMP- how can we guaratnee our employees
> they get experienced in a usefull field.
> (my general answer is: somebody able to use GIMP for image editing will be
> able to use other ... software, same as people skilled in this other...
> software can switch to GIMP without major problems; there is an increasing
> market for people able to work with GIMP etc...)
> I know, these questions sound strange somehow but for some institutions it's
> essential.
> 
> And: both kinds of certification would be useful: certified GIMP trainer and
> certified GIMP user(?) 
> 
> It's about europe...so I will ask at ICOGRADA (I already am in contact with
> the LPI)
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Adrana
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://gimp.1065349.n5.nabble.com/Certification-plans-tp51227p51244.html
> Sent from the Users mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Gimp-user] Certification plans

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/18/2017 03:30 PM, Ofnuts wrote:

> IMHO a Gimp certification is pointless. People that pay you for graphics
> work look at the result and don't really care how you obtained it. 

Depends the workplace environment.  At a company big enough to have a
dedicated HR department, ass covering is always a priority:  When you
hire people without knowing anything at all about the actual job they
are going to do, a certificate from somebody saying the candidate can do
that job is evidence of due diligence - and takes no actual work on the
part of the interviewer, vs. asking to see examples of a candidate's
work, guessing whether it's relevant to the position in question, etc.

An offlist message mentioned a certification program for the GIMP that
costs $120 and, per the curriculum on the website, appears to be legit.
Any experienced user could probably blow through it in a day or so,
unless it is necessary to memorize "wrong answers" to pass.

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] Certification plans

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/18/2017 03:30 PM, Ofnuts wrote:
> On 06/18/17 21:09, Steve Kinney wrote:
>>
>> On 06/18/2017 03:22 AM, mikolaskova wrote:
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I'm working on a project, where existing raster graphic software is
>>> being
>>> replaced by GIMP.
>>> There was a question about available certification. Are there any
>>> official
>>> plans?
>> Certification of what, by who, and for what purpose?
>>
>> Inquiring minds want to know.
>>
>>
> These are "Professional certifications", that are available in some form
> or another for many professional softwares. Usually obtained after a
> (paying) training from the software house: Oracle, Microsoft, RedHat... 
> There are also certifications for FOSS software but since they are
> issued by many independent companies none of them have much clout. They
> can look nice on a resume, especially when you are hired on a project
> basis (consultant, IT services...) but not a true proof of proficiency.
> 
> IMHO a Gimp certification is pointless. People that pay you for graphics
> work look at the result and don't really care how you obtained it. This
> isn't the same thing as trusting your mission-critical enterprise
> database or server farm to some unknown individual.

Oh that.  As an old QA guy I tend to think of certification in a whole
other context, relevant to the fitness for use of deliverables.

I don't think too highly of certificates of completion from vendor
specific programs for software users.  A primary objective of the
coursework in those programs is to prepare the student as an outside
sales rep for the vendor, assuring that as much money as possible will
be spent with the vendor by certified whatzit's employer, and vendor
lock-in firmly established at the enterprise.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Certification plans

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/18/2017 03:22 AM, mikolaskova wrote:
> Hello, 
> 
> I'm working on a project, where existing raster graphic software is being
> replaced by GIMP.
> There was a question about available certification. Are there any official
> plans?

Certification of what, by who, and for what purpose?

Inquiring minds want to know.


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Re: [Gimp-user] Move tool locks; what's triggering it?

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/13/2017 05:32 PM, nateart wrote:
>> Thanks - will take a look at the settings... I have started checking
>> that other apps are closed while I Gimp - that definitely helps
> 
> My work is mostly geared to print, commonly 300dpi. Greeting cards (normally
> 5"x7" or double) are one thing, but 20"x30" wall prints can get huge - I 
> assume
> that the number of layers in a file would be a factor?

The word "humongous" comes to mind.  Some things I would suggest is
cropping layers that do not fill the entire image, so they do not eat up
any more memory than necessary; avoid converting text layers to image
layers where and as possible; and maybe most important, delete your undo
history early and often - it uses a lot of memory.

Another thing to consider is the distance from which the poster will be
viewed.  The further away from the viewer the less DPI resolution is
needed.  300 DPI is standard for materials that will be hand held, but
200 might be acceptable for a poster that will hang on a wall.  Some
experiments might be in order.

:o)




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Re: [Gimp-user] Gimp: My illustration tool

[Steve Kinney]

On 06/12/2017 01:50 PM, nateart wrote:
>> snip...
>> Just for info.
>>
>> That list of shortcuts is generally OK but it is for Gimp 2.6 and has
>> not been updated to include changes.
>>
>> example 'shrink-wrap' ctrl-E is now ctrl-J
>>
>> The best list I know is this one:
>>
>> http://clownfishcafe.blogspot.co.uk/p/gimp-28-shortcuts.html
> 
> Downloaded that... thanks!!

You can also create shortcuts for pretty much every tool in the GIMP.  I
use keyboard combinations that make sense to me for lots of fuctions.
You can also configure your mouse wheel plus a keyboard shortcut to do
useful things, such as making brushes larger and smaller or changing
their hardness on the fly.

I configure Alt + scroll up/down to make brushes larger or smaller, and
Ctrl + Alt + scroll up/down to make brushes harder or softer.

Picture worth thousand words:

http://pilobilus.net/img/mouse-scale-brush.jpg

I also made a small set of VBR brushes to go with:  GBR brushes are
bitmaps, so you can scale them on the canvas but not change their
hardness; VBR brushes are vector files, and you can change both size and
hardness freely.

http://pilobilus.net/xfer/brushes.png

http://pilobilus.net/xfer/Variable-Brushes.zip

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] Text rendering

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/27/2017 08:38 PM, zylstra wrote:
>> Did you make sure to use the same PPI value for the image in all
>> applications?

> What do those programs use for PPI?  I think Paint.net uses 96 PPI.  And how 
> do
> I change the PPI in GIMP?

Most applications use 72 DPI as their default resolution.

One way to find the DPI resolution specified in the header of an image
is to load it in the GIMP and do Image > Scale.  The existing DPI value
is shown in the dialog box.  To change the DPI, just enter your new DPI
value and "Scale" the image.  All this will do - unless you entered new
dimensions as well - is change the DPI specified in the file header.

If you change your image size from pixels to inches or another physical
dimension in the Scale dialog, the DPI is used by the GIMP to calculate
the new dimensions in pixels when actually resizing the image.  This is
very convenient when, for instance, exporting images for print at 300 DPI.

:o)




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Re: [Gimp-user] 2.8.22 is wacky

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/29/2017 10:32 AM, Carol Spears wrote:

[ ... ]

>> It just seemed to me to be un-intuitive, that a user would be using one
> tool, and suddenly to
>> be switched to another tool without his intending to select it.
>>
> The "intuitive" side of this is that when you purposely grab a guide from
> the ruler, the move tool
> is automatically engaged for refining the guide's position.

It seems to me that people often call what they are used to doing from
long habit "intuitive."  For instance, when a long time user of one
photo editor tries out another one, nothing is "intuitive" and
everything about the unfamiliar one just seems wrong.

> I am unsure if this was something that gimp-1.0.2 did, but certainly
> gimp-1.2 had this enabled.
> And all gimp versions since for +15 years.

Not sure if it's a bug, a feature, or an oversight taken for granted as
"normal" by users and developers just because that's the way it always
worked and they're used to it.

> Perhaps as gimp's nefarious and wrong-thinking users (the numbers which are
> many) are
> also aging and cannot keep the mouse pointer on the canvas, this and other
> features will just
> need to go away. :)

When using Inkscape, I take it for granted that guides "just work" and
placing one doesn't turn off the tool I wanted to "guide" with a guide.
I don't mind that at all, in fact I rather like it now that I have been
prompted to ask myself whether or not.  If asked, I would say "Don't be
switching on the Move tool whenever someone adds a guide, that's silly."

In Inkscape, guides turn red (after a momentary delay) when the cursor
is placed more or less exactly over them - unless the cursor is dragging
a selected object or node, drawing a line, or etc. at the time.  When
red, the guide can be removed by pressing the Delete key, or clicked and
dragged to a new position (or off the canvas).  I like that behavior.  I
have also found Inkscape's diagonal guides (45 degrees) very handy; they
are created by clicking the ruler and dragging diagonally.

I am usually very skeptical of UI changes in the GIMP, but more
Inkscape-like behavior for guides would be a Good Thing IMO.  This is
not a huge issue for me - I have taken the "old" behavior for granted
for nearly 20 years.  It's "intuitive" because it's familiar - along
with all the other annoyances inherent in editing photos and such.

:o)



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Re: [Gimp-user] 2.8.22 is wacky

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/26/2017 12:05 AM, Nate Owens wrote:
> *Text ALONG path url* = https://docs.gimp.org/2.6/en/gimp-tool-text.html
> scroll down.
> Scroll down there is also an image demonstrating it's position in the Layer
> menu selection
> There is an image here, not to say it will show up in the mail list =
> "Figure 13.177. The Text to Path command..."
> 
> Text along Path
> 
> This option is enabled only if a path
>  exists. When your text
> is created, then create or import a path and make it active. If you create
> your path before the text, the path becomes invisible and you have to make
> it visible in the Path Dialog.
> 
> This command is also available from the “Layer” menu:
> 
> *Figure 13.177.  The Text to Path command among text commands in the Layer
> menu*
> [image: The Text to Path command among text commands in the Layer menu]
> 
> This group of options appears only if a layer text exists.

Hmm.  The "Text to path" command is a semi-hidden option in recent
versions of the GIMP:  Left click an active text layer, and it's one of
the menu items.  I use it quite frequently, to get a path I can use to
add a stroke to a transparent layer under the text to create an outline.

Note that many of the toolbox items including move and transform tools
include a mode setting in the Tool Options dialog, and can be set to
work with image layers, selections or paths.  A big deficiency in the
Scale, Rotate, Shear and Perspective tools when applied to paths, is
that they present a draggable grid the size of the whole image canvas,
not a box around the currently active path.  But they do work.

:o)




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Re: [Gimp-user] 2.8.22 is wacky

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/25/2017 02:01 AM, Michael Schumacher wrote:
> 
> 
> On 05/25/2017 05:17 AM, Nate Owens wrote:


>> *In earlier versions the text along a path tool worked great...*

[ ... ]

> You could be remembering something different, maybe third-party plug-in.
> If you still got a XCF file with text shaped in this way, it would be
> good if you can share it. Also, anything you know about when this was
> possible can be helpful.

The GIMP's path along text tool works for me, but only in limited
contexts where big transformations are not wanted.

I use Inkscape to do serious text manipulation.  It's the Right Thing To
Do:  Fonts are vector files, so use a vector editor.  Inkscape exports
clean crisp PNG files at any scale, just drop them into the GIMP and
viola.

[ ... ]

>> *What are the options to retrieve a usable Gimp?*
> 
> Tell us what doesn't work (like you did here), and then help us to
> figure out why it doesn't work for you.

I'm using GIMP 2.8.10 on a Debian family Linux box, no wackiness noted.
The roommmate has the latest stable build in the 2.8 series on Windows 7
or 10, no wackiness there either.


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Re: [Gimp-user] Set default Save As folder?

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/15/2017 05:58 PM, Michael Schumacher wrote:

> I know that user manuals of all software are to be shunned, but dare I
> suggest to provide the readers with links to:
> 
> 
> - the File->Open dialog
> https://docs.gimp.org/2.8/en/gimp-file-open.html
> 
> - the File->Save dialog
> https://docs.gimp.org/2.8/en/gimp-save-dialog.html
> 
> 
> where the user interface elements mentioned in this thread are visible
> and get explained?

Links to manual pages rule, there are none higher.  If, that is, the
manual provides explicit instructions for the very thing wanted.
Otherwise, a more detailed explanation /and/ links to relevant manual
pages rule, etc.

Although on some occasions one must simply post screen shots of the
process.  Rare occasions, fortunately.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Changing brush size does not work

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/12/2017 12:10 PM, rich2005 wrote:
>> I can't change brush size in GIMP. I've been working on this simple
>> task all morning.
>> I've downloaded and installed the most recent stable version of GIMP
>> (2.8.22).
>> I've created a new brush so that I can edit it.
>> Changing the radius of the brush does nothing (see attached image).
>> I'm about to throw my computer out the window.
>> Please, help, help, help!
> 
> That is not the way it works. 
> 
> The brush designer does what it says, designs a parametric (.vbr) brush, which
> is a bit like a vector, the brush is a text file description of properties.
> 
> Each brush has a 'natural' size, which you can reset in Gimp 2.8.22 using the
> little yellow arrow in the Brush tool options. see: small-brush
> 
> Exactly the same brush can use the size slider to resize to the new size ( 2x
> the radius) so for a 725 radius use 1450. see: large-brush
> 
> You could save both of your brushes radius = 55 and radius = 725 as separate
> .vbr files and use the little yellow arrow to set the size, but it is a bit
> pointless when one will do.
> 
> rich: www.gimp-forum.net

I don't know if there is some configuration problem involved, but if not
this may be of use:  You can set up the GIMP so that holding the ALT key
down and scrolling your mouse wheel will make brushes larger or smaller
on demand. Go to Edit > Preferences > Input Controllers and double click
on Main Mouse Wheel to bring up the configuration dialog. Picture worth
thousand words:

http://pilobilus.net/img/mouse-scale-brush.jpg

I think this setting should be a "default" - but meanwhile, you can set
it up yourself. I also configure the GIMP to make the current brush
"softer" or "harder" - that is, more or less fuzzy around the edge - in
response to holding down Ctrl + Shift + Alt and scrolling the mouse
wheel up and down. (This only works with VBR brushes.)  Controlling
brush size and hardness with the mouse wheel is way more efficient than
constantly switching between brushes or leaving the canvas to drag slide
controls around.

:o)




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Re: [Gimp-user] Question About Recreating a Drop Shadow

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/09/2017 05:16 PM, Amber Sunder wrote:
> My apologies - I should have included a photo in my initial inquiry!
> Thank you for your response! Below is what I'm trying to edit. It is
> currently 'TheMusician' with the drop shadow you see there. I need to
> reproduce that exact drop shadow when we change the title of this
> particular document to 'TheArtist.' There are several pages in the
> document this is a part of, and every page's title has this exact drop
> shadow, so when I change it to 'TheArtist,' it needs to be exactly the
> same. I just wish there was a way to see the settings she used to create
> it so I can input those same values to the drop shadow I need to apply
> to 'TheArtist' so it's exactly the same. Layer Group #2 is what contains
> this title and drop shadow.

Aha!

I see a black text layer, and under that, the same text layer in white
(light gray actually), and under that, a thin but normal "shadow" layer
made as described in my previous post, with the lower two layers offset
to produce the effect.

See attached:  A low resolution approximation of the same drop shadow
effect.  If you have the original font, this example and my post re
making drop shadows by hand should be all you need to get as close to
"exact" as you need.

As this is a "logo" I suggest making a large high resolution "master"
that can be used in lots of applications (after scaling and tweaking).
Ideally it might be duplicated in Inkscape or another vector edior;
then, it could be scaled to any size and exported in any common image
format as required, quickly and easily.

:o)






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Re: [Gimp-user] What's the term? ...

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/09/2017 03:28 PM, Dave C via gimp-user-list wrote:
> for a transparent image that highlights relevant components within? I’m
> using “ghost drawing” but I know that’s not right.
> 
> What is the word I’m searching for?

Do you mean a "vignette?"  This general idea:

http://www.francescomilanese.com/ENG/gimp/3-vignette-darkening-the-edges-of-an-image-in-gimp-tutorial.html

If so that's it.

You can also do other sneaky things to make the "foreground" subject of
an image stand out, for instance copy your base image, slightly blur it
and slightly reduce its contrast and/or color saturation (a tiny bit
will do the trick), and add a layer mask to it.  Use a radial gradient,
black to white, centered on the part of the image you want to emphasize
and viola:  It pops.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Question About Recreating a Drop Shadow

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/09/2017 04:10 PM, Kevin Cozens wrote:
> On 2017-05-09 02:40 PM, Amber Sunder wrote:
>> I'm new to using GIMP and am trying to edit the work of the person in my
>> position previous to me. She used a drop shadow on the title of the page
> [snip]
>> This isn't your normal drop shadow, so I'm not sure how she created it!
> [snip]
>> this particular document was created using GIMP
> 
> GIMP includes a filter to add drop shadow to an item. There are (or
> were) some filters let you create text with a drop shadow.

With your text layer selected, do Filters > Light and shadow > Drop
shadow.  Tweak the settings, try it, undo, adjust again, etc. until you
get what you are after or determine that this filter won't do it.

You might also want to try some of the effects at Filters > Alpha to
logo.  Note that the results come out as layers, and you can remove,
change opacity, or otherwise edit the individual layers to tweak the
result.  If the strange drop shadow was originally made with one of
these scripts, you should be able to get an exact duplicate without too
much trial and error.

An "abnormal" drop shadow may or may not be reproducible with a filter
or script; but it's not hard to do these things by hand.

Basic drop shadow:

* Create your text with the Text tool; size and position it as required.
 Note that you can alter letter spacing, line spacing, alignment inside
the text box (left, center, right or justified) with a tool in the Tool
Options dock when the Text tool is active and a text layer is selected.

* In the Layers dock, make a copy of your text layer.  Change the color
of the original (lower) text layer to black by drag-and-drop from the
color tool while that layer is selected.  Or, use the shadow color of
your choice.

* Next, with the lower (shadow) layer selected, right click that layer's
icon in the Layers dialog and do "Discard text information."  It is now
a normal image layer that you can do awful things to.

* Still with the shadow layer selected in the Layers dialog, turn on the
Move tool, click on the image canvas window to make it active, and use
your keyboard arrow keys to offset the shadow layer from the text layer,
positioning it to function as a drop shadow.

* Do Filters > Blur > Gaussian Blur to give your shadow a soft edge.
Play with different blur values, move the layer around a bit, etc. until
it starts to look right (Ctrl+z is your friend - instant easy undo).
You may also want to adjust the shadow layer's opacity via the slider at
the top of the Layers dock.

I don't know what's unusual about the drop shadow you are duplicating,
but variations on the method presented above should allow you to
duplicate most anything that can be called a drop shadow.

> You said the drop shadow on the image you are dealing with is not
> "normal". What is different about it? If the image was created by GIMP
> it may be slightly different than a drop shadow created by Photoshop (or
> some other editing program) but it was most likely created using the
> built-in drop shadow features of GIMP.

Verily:  If we could see the original you are trying to duplicate, the
method used might be obvious.  Or at least a way to do the same thing
should not be hard for the gang here to come up with.

:o)

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Re: [Gimp-user] [Gimp-gui] GIMP ---> Pixi: suggested name change

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/08/2017 01:14 PM, Alexandre Prokoudine wrote:
> On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 8:12 PM, Steve Kinney  wrote:
> 
>> I don't care what you say about Wilbur as long as you spell his name right.
> 
> This is were I have to hesitantly point out that he is Wilber, not Wilbur :)

ROTFLMAO!  What has been posted can not be un-posted.  Damn the
disconnect between my brain and fingers!

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] [Gimp-gui] GIMP ---> Pixi: suggested name change

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/08/2017 12:14 PM, Patrick Shanahan wrote:
> * Joshua Coppersmith-Heaven  [05-08-17 
> 12:06]:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> GIMP is a great programme, but it is not a great name. Changing its identity
>> to something more likeable will help to get more users, and potentially more
>> developers.
>>
>> There is a commercial image editor called Pixie (with an e), but not Pixi.
>> This makes sense, as long as the software remains a pixel-based editor. I've
>> thought about the name for a while, before google came out with their latest
>> phone!
>>
>> The logo could also feature some kind of pixelated pixi type character
>> (think a stylised zelda character), to replace to paintbrush-dog, which
>> seems to not have much in connection with the name gimp or am I missing
>> something?
>>
>>
>> Be interested to know your thoughts,
> 
> google for "gimp name change" and you will find your answer.

Yeah, it's in there:

https://www.mail-archive.com/gimp-user@lists.xcf.berkeley.edu/msg9.html

Long story short, all of the GIMP maintainers and a large number of GIMP
users are "computer people."  We are comfortable with acronyms, and the
acronym for a program whose full name was General Image Manipulation
Program and later GNU Image Manipulation Program doesn't bother us at all.

If anything, this "not a great name" suits the moronic sense of humor
that is every computer geek's birthright.  (Yes, I said geek and I meant
it.)

The GIMP has been around under that name for going on 20 years.  Its
user base has grown exponentially worldwide, and the tool kit itself is
standing on the brink of a quantum leap in capabilities.  I see no signs
that its name, which has positive brand recognition across a very large
community of users, has held back the GIMP's market penetration in the
least.  At this time, a name change would be actively harmful to long
established organic promotion that works very well.

BTW, "paintbrush-dog"?  His name is Wilbur and he is not a dog.  As a
student of marketing a.k.a. propaganda, I don't care what you say about
Wilbur as long as you spell his name right.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] tips on working with gigantic files?

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/05/2017 06:01 PM, Casey Connor wrote:
> Hi -- I'm trying to do some simple work on a 0.5GP image in GIMP 2.9.5
> (on Linux). (Image is ~23k by 22k pixels, 16bit RGBA).

I don't think this will solve the problem you described, but I have
found that clearing the undo history after every operation done on open
files frees a lot of memory in cases where there is /almost/ too much
data for the system to cope with.

Another possibility:  Crop the images you are trying to merge down to
just the bits that overlap, process those, then add the cropped parts
back in.  Again, this might not be practical in your situation, but it's
all I can think to suggest from similar problems I have run into.

If friend with a more powerful box will let you do this thing on that
machine, a USB stick and a copy of the portable version of the GIMP
might do the trick...

:o/


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Re: [Gimp-user] Stitching Photos

[Steve Kinney]

On 05/03/2017 10:11 PM, DERoss wrote:
> I have two JPEG files, each with a photo.  I want to creat a single file
> that has the photos stitched together side-by-side.  While I know how to
> export an image from GIMP into a JPEG file, I cannot figure out how to
> stitch two images together.  How do I do this?  Better, where in the
> user documentation is this described?

There are automated tools to facilitate this, but I have not used them.

The manual process is not terribly complicated.

First, open one of the photos in the GIMP, then import the second photo
as a layer.  Drag and drop the second image to the image canvas, quick &
easy.

Next, do Image > Canvas size, and make the 'workspace' available big
enough to accommodate both photos side by side, with some room left over
to move them around.

Then align the photos so their edges fit together accurately.  How to do
this depends on the individual photos; some rotation and scaling (in
that order) of the layer you are moving around may be required to make
them match, and maybe a little tweaking with the Perspective tool, which
enables one to arbitrarily stretch a layer by repositioning its corners.

Note that when using the Rotate tool, you can move the center of
rotation by dragging the cross hair icon in the middle of the grid to
wherever you want it.  Making one detail near the top or bottom edge of
your upper layer match the lower one exactly, and putting the center of
rotation there, will save a lot of time and effort.

Adjusting the transparency of the upper layer to about 50% will greatly
assist in lining it up with the base layer.  When your alignment,
rotation, scaling etc. are

Once the two photos / layers are aligned and look right, "save" your
work as XCF, then save it again with a new name, i.e. add "-1" or
something to the name.  This is so you can go back and tweak your first
effort if and as needed.

To make a seamless transition from one image to another, it may be
helpful to add a layer mask to the upper image and use a very soft edged
brush (or the gradient tool) on the mask to fade the edge of the upper
image out a little.

Finally, crop the aligned photos to square up their edges, make any
necessary color, light, etc. adjustments, save that result as XCF and
export the image to your format of choice as a finished product.

Functions you may want to look up, if any are unfamiliar:  The Move
tool, Scale tool, Rotate tool, Perspective tool, layer opacity
adjustment, Crop tool.

I have made panoramas this way, and it worked out quite nicely.  I
cheated, though, by taking the original pictures with a camera on a
tripod, which make the assembly /way/ easier than hand held results permit.

:o)


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Re: [Gimp-user] Unified transform Tool When Zoomed In

[Steve Kinney]

On 04/27/2017 03:49 PM, programmer_ceds wrote:
> Is there a good reason why the extra view(s) initiated by "View New View" only
> update on the completion of an operation? From my point of view it would be
> better if they reflected the active view (or a sub-set or super-set of the it)
> complete with any on-screen preview or partially completed drawing operation
> etc.

+1

That would definitely eliminate a major annoyance and workflow
interruption when/as the problem pops up.  Which is too often, IMO.

:o)


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