Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

2012-11-16 Thread Margo Anderson
My size 16 dummy is wearing a camicia made from wonderful soft, silky cotton 
voile that I got from Dharma Dyeworks.  It's part of a Venetian ensemble that 
I'm making up as a sample for a new pattern.  I'm making the gown in white 
brocade so I can sell it as a wedding dress.  

My half scale male form, General Tom, is wearing a mockup Tudor shirt with 
machine faux smocking, and his partner Lavinia is wearing a camicia and a roped 
petticoat, also working samples for the Italian patterns.

The somewhat larger me size form is nude.  The shoemaker's children go 
barefoot...

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents

2012-05-23 Thread Margo Anderson
If you're looking for sew-on rhinestone elements such as buckles, buttons, 
shapes such as dragonflies or flowers, etc,  try contacting 
www.such-a-deal.com.  

Don't ask for rhinestones, I was reprimanded for calling them that, what he 
has is crystal.  Never mind that they're exactly the same thing.  Anyway, he 
only recently started repping this line, and I happened to stop in at the store 
when he was unpacking the sample suitcases.  Oh My God.  This is the best 
quality stuff I've ever seen.  It looks like fine jewelry, most of the settings 
are gold or silver plated, and the prices reflect that.  But if you're looking 
for something special, and don't mind buying in wholesale lots of a dozen 
pieces, this is the place to go for top of the line.

He won't be putting the crystal line on the website, so if you want something 
you'll need to contact him directly, but it could be worth it.  

Margo


On May 23, 2012, at 5:50 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

 The ones I've worked with have one set of prongs that go through the fabric,
 then the stone is set into it, trapping the fabric between the backing and
 the stone. But if you sewed the backing on first on top of the fabric, then
 set the stone, you wouldn't harm the fabric. And you could remove them
 later.
 Sharon
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Lynn Downward
 Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 12:57 PM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] rhinestone accents
 
 Sharon,
 
 will that work? It seems that the settings I've seen have double prongs -
 one for the stone and one to go through the fabric.
 
 I;d also like to apologize to Denise for kind of taking over her question.
 
 LynnD
 
 On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:47 PM, Sharon Collier
 sha...@collierfam.comwrote:
 
 Just sew on the back first, using an X stitch,  without the stone in it.
 The back will be attached, but not going through the fabric. Then set 
 the stone into the prongs.
 Sharon C.
 
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker​'s dummy wearing today?

2012-03-13 Thread Margo Anderson
Mine is currently wearing a custom fitted cover that I finally got around to 
making and need to pad out with something firmer than fiberfill.  So she's 
nude, but it counts as a sewing project.

Margo


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Re: [h-cost] mystery term

2011-10-08 Thread Margo Anderson
 
 
 
 On Oct 7, 2011, at 6:19 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:
 
 Anyone ever heard of a hesitation hem???
 
There's the Hesitation Waltz step,  there might be a connection.

Margo

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Re: [h-cost] New Historical Clothing Pattern Site

2011-10-03 Thread Margo Anderson
I want to make something clear: The company Historical Clothing Patterns is 
not associated in any way with Historic Costume Patterns. I have asked them 
to change the name and they've ignored me. I don't want their reputation for 
customer service and quality of product being confused with mine. So please, if 
you are referring to either company, be sure you have the right name!

Please pass this information around as much as you can. I'm sorry to have to 
take this issue so public, but they've left me no alternative.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] New Historical Clothing Pattern Site

2011-09-28 Thread Margo Anderson
I've been trying to find any information about them, including doing a Business 
Entity search for their Limited Liability corporation in all 50 states, to no 
avail.  There is, literally, NO information about them on the Web aside from an 
out of date Etsy store,  their Facebook page, and their website.  The websites 
scheduled maintenance announcement has been changed and now has no expected 
date of reopening.  I believe this may be due to legal issues.

Margo Anderson

Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns is not associated with Historical 
Clothing Patterns, LLC. in any way.
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Re: [h-cost] Movie Costume Question: McGonagall's Yule Ensemble

2011-09-16 Thread Margo Anderson

On Sep 16, 2011, at 11:37 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote:

 At one time, Joann's carried a white silk that was pin-tucked like that and 
 silk takes dye. 
 
 
If you try this, buy 1/8 of a yard first and do a test dye.  It's possible, 
even probable, that the pin tucks are sewn in polyester thread that won't take 
the dye. 

Margo


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Re: [h-cost] New Pattern Company?

2011-09-13 Thread Margo Anderson

On Sep 13, 2011, at 7:39 AM, Bambi TBNL wrote:

 Lol! My only email access is through my not so smart phone. It edits my 
 spelling even if it has breasted not tosorry!!!

Okay, I really want to know what you told it that it auto corrected to 
breasted!

Margo


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[h-cost] New Pattern Company?

2011-09-12 Thread Margo Anderson
Does anyone know anything about historicalclothingpatterns.com?  There's no 
information about the creator(s) of these patterns, no background, credentials, 
experience, or location.  There's no mailing address or phone number, and the 
email  says it's for sales queries only.  They seem to be specializing in movie 
costume knock-offs. 

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Hair styles

2011-06-05 Thread Margo Anderson


On Jun 3, 2011, at 11:20 AM, otsisto wrote:

Do you have gray or white hair? If white, try streaking your hair  
blond to

hide the white,let it blend in.


I have black hair, which made it near impossible to do anything with  
color that would let it blend.  Plus I'm cheap. I found that getting  
my hair cut with lots of layers made it more bearable.  All the dyed  
parts and the layers are grown out now, and I have really good silver  
streaks that are going to look even better once it gets long.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Hair styles

2011-06-03 Thread Margo Anderson
Wow, thanks!  I cut my hair short several years ago in order to let my  
gray grow out, and am trying to grow it long again. It's at the  
infuriating stage where it's just a little too short to get in a bun,  
and long enough to look messy and haphazard.  I almost booked a  
haircut this morning, but looking at this site is great motivation for  
sticking to it.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] False Eyelashes

2011-05-26 Thread Margo Anderson


On May 25, 2011, at 2:27 AM, penn...@costumegallery.com penn...@costumegallery.com 
 wrote:


This morning a film titled Lady of Leisure was on was on TCM with  
Barbara
Stanwyck.  Her role was a model and she was wearing false  
eyelashes.  The

male actor peeled them off her eyelids.  My question when were false
eyelashes first used in history and how were they attached?

According to the US Patent office,  a patent for false eyelashes was  
granted 100 years ago, on June 6, 1911.  I think we should have a  
celebration!


http://www.google.com/patents?id=sadCEBAJprintsec=abstractzoom=4source=gbs_overview_rcad=0#v 
=onepageqf=false


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] OT: corset and breast augmentation surgery

2011-05-21 Thread Margo Anderson


On May 20, 2011, at 5:57 AM, Kay Shelton wrote:


(SNIP) I fear the doctor may not have experience with costuming.


You might be surprised.  Some years back, I found a lump in my breast.  
I told the doctor I'd spent the weekend at a historical event wearing  
a corset, and that might have something to do with it.  Without  
batting an eye, he asked What period? And when I told him, wrote  
down elizabethan without further question.  Wierded me right out, it  
did.


(It turned out to be mastitis, irritated by the corset.  While I can't  
wear a tight corset without it coming back, I can deal, considering  
what I was afraid it was.)


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

2011-04-29 Thread Margo Anderson


On Apr 29, 2011, at 11:20 AM, Jean Waddie wrote:

I thought the trees were brilliant.  How do you get enough flowers  
to look significant in a huge Abbey? - just get trees instead!


And the trees can be planted out somewhere, hopefully in a park or  
other public place.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] not ancient hist. costume...

2011-02-14 Thread Margo Anderson
Dated it may be, but the Illustrated Hassle Free Make Your Own Clothes  
book set quite a few of us on the path of costuming, sewing and  
patternmaking.  I for one was delighted to be freed from the tyranny  
of the pattern companies, whose size range, at that time, stopped at  
14.  Using their method of tracing existing garments helped me make  
some simple yet pretty dresses, tops,and pants, and that gave me the  
confidence and interest to learn more.


One can always learn, even from the most unlikely sources.

Margo

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Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie

2011-01-15 Thread Margo Anderson
I've made corset stays for dolls by cutting strips from plastic milk  
jugs.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary

2011-01-08 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm still here!  I just don't have as much time to post these days,  
and most of the discussion of my main interest area has moved over to  
my own Yahoo list.


I joined in '96, when I was typing one handed because I was  
breastfeeding a newborn.  Now he's in high school, and taking an  
interest in costuming. He was the only kid to attend his eighth grade  
gradation in an impeccable vintage tuxedo.


The H-costume list saved my sanity, such as it was, during my early  
Mommy years.  it gave me a way to talk to grownups about my interests,  
and, wow, did I.  For several years I was vying with Penny and  
Maggiros to be the most prolific poster.


In 1999, when I started my business, h-cos was my source for vending  
vendors and suppliers, my focus group, and an eager customer base. It  
would have been far more difficult to do without the list members.


Just to point out how different things were back then,  I used to get  
up in the morning, start my email program, go to the kitchen and make  
a cup of coffee, put a load of laundry in, and come back to my  
computer just in time for the 100+ H-costume messages to show up.   
Most websites were Netscape grey with Times Roman fonts and no  
pictures, and pictures on E-bay were a rarity as well.  On the other  
hand, spam was so rare as to be remarkable when you got some in your  
email.


Here's to many more years!

Margo
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[h-cost] Decorative Fraying in 1850's

2010-11-09 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm at work on an 1850's dress in plaid taffeta and I've discovered  
that my sample bias ruffle takes a gorgeous frayed edge. It almost  
looks fluted, or like feathers!  Was this technique used at the time  
as an edging for skirt frills?


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Unidenitified object

2010-04-12 Thread Margo Anderson
I bought something identical to it from Goody hair accessories back in  
the early 80's.  It was for doing rolled, 40's style hairdos, and I  
believe it was a repro of something from that time.  You were supposed  
to catch the ends of your hair between the two halves and then roll it  
up.  I never could make it work properly.


Margo


On Apr 5, 2010, at 6:32 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:



Wow!? This would answer for mine.? Could also be used to stabilize  
crochet balls.

kathleen?
-Original Message-
From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net
Sent 4/5/2010 9:15:23 AM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Unidenitified objectIt may not be the same  
thing but I have seen something similar to it. One
was used for the mouth of a yarn bag. The other use was for sewing  
but I
can't remeber what specifically for and I had the impression that it  
was an

adaptation to what it's original purpose was.
Sorry,
De
-Original Message-
This was found in my grandmother's things after she passed. She kept
it with her sewing stuff although that doesn't necessarily mean it's
sewing-related. Any idea what it is?
http://picasaweb.google.com/Charlene281/20100404?feat=directlink
--Charlene
--
Gossip is when you hear something you like about someone you don't.
--Earl Wilson
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Re: [h-cost] 20 century corsets with underbelt

2010-04-01 Thread Margo Anderson


On Mar 31, 2010, at 3:00 PM, Sid Young wrote:


http://www.corsetiere.net/Spirella/Corsets/Surgical.htm#Ubelt



Oh, I see!  I was thinking of something completely different, the kind  
of inner belt that some bustiers and strapless dresses have.


These look like they'd be comfortable for those of us with bellies.   
I've been trying to design a modern version for exercise, that could  
be built into bike shorts.


Margo


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Re: [h-cost] 20 century corsets with underbelt

2010-03-30 Thread Margo Anderson
My understanding is that the waist belt takes some of the stress load  
off the eyelets, at what would otherwise be the point of the greatest  
strain.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] A strange question

2010-03-29 Thread Margo Anderson


My first Twelfthnight costume was in 1973.  I don't know what Margo  
was

doing that long ago,


I was in high school. :)  I made a few costumes for school plays, and  
went to my first Renaissance Faire at Black Point.  Most of my sewing  
went into my personal wardrobe, as I was attempting to rock the Janis  
Joplin Rich Hippie look.


It was a few years later that I really started to understand what  
serious historical costume was supposed to look like.  Kayta had a  
hand in that, after I met her in Golden Gate Park when her group was  
having a historical theme picnic in a reserved area, and my friends  
and I had shown up with no permit or reservation to do a Pagan  
ritual.  The were very nice and understanding to flaky us, and I  
thought what they were doing looked like a whole lot of fun.


So be nice to the newbies, you never know who you might be inspiring!

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

2010-03-01 Thread Margo Anderson
My intern cleaned the sewing room the other day and due to the lack of  
hanging space, she layered several pieces on the dress form, so it's  
wearing a stretch lycra bellydance dress,  a  Tudor gown,  an  
Elizabethan gown and a bead and coin necklace. Why the base hasn't  
buckled under all that,  I don't know.


What's actually in progress at the moment is a skirt for a flamenco- 
bellydance fusion costume, in several different floral and polka dot  
prints.  I'm taking a break from sewing lace to the edge of 21 yards  
of ruffles.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Grading patterns

2010-01-29 Thread Margo Anderson

Hi Sylvia:

I've worked with a professional grader, and it was very easy and  
surprisingly inexpensive.  I sent her digital files, but you can also  
send them paper patterns.  If the grader works with a computer  
program, as most of them do these days, you or she can have the paper  
patterns digitized by a mail in service for a few dollars.


Unless you have absolutely top-notch patternmaking skills, it's  
worthwhile to pay a patternmaker (sometimes the same person/business  
as the grader, sometimes not) to clean up your patterns and make them  
more efficient for the grading process.


If you google Pattern Grading Service you'll find quite a few.   
You'll probably have to make a number of phone calls to find one that  
wants to work with you.  Most of them are geared to garment production  
patterns, which are very different from home sewing patterns.  A lot  
of them don't want to work on a small scale, but there are some out  
there who will.


I can't make any recommendations of specific services, as my previous  
grader has closed her business while she gets her own fashion line off  
the ground.  I'm working with a new one but haven't yet seen the  
results, so I don't feel ready to make a recommendation.


Be aware that there is at least one pattern grading service out there  
that's marketing to new designers, and they are charging rates that  
are more than TEN TIMES the norm.


Here's an excellent blog post about grading services: 
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/how_to_hire_a_pattern_grading_service/

Good luck!

Margo Anderson
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Re: [h-cost] Roman rings and Cable Ties

2010-01-13 Thread Margo Anderson
I get my roman drapery rings at JoAnne, but I was dismayed to find out  
that my local (40 miles away!) store is discontinuing them.  As  
someone else mentioned, Renaissance Fabrics is a good source.


As for cable ties, the kind I recommend are available at Home Depot.   
They'll be in the heating/air conditioning department.  Here's some  
information from the package that might be helpful:


Malco
36 Nylon Ties
Catalog Number TY34

You can also buy them online from  a number of suppliers.  Search for  
cable ties zip ties or nylon ties.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] CoCo Meet Up

2009-07-28 Thread Margo Anderson

Me!

Margo

On Jul 23, 2009, at 10:52 AM, Cin wrote:


Sign me up!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com


From: Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com
Subject: [h-cost] Costume College Meet-up

I would be happy to host a meet-up for H-Cos folks.  I do need to  
know how
much space we will need, so I would like to get an idea how many  
people

might be joining us at CoCo.

Who will be attending Costume College and would be interested in  
meeting
up?  Please email me with a subject line of CoCo Meet Up.  Will  
we need a

table in the bar, a corner of the dining room, or a whole room to
ourselves?  :)

Looking forward to seeing you all,
Regina Lawson Voorhes
(name change in progress)


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Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions

2009-07-04 Thread Margo Anderson
I remember my older brother's Cool Girlfriend wearing long dresses  
when I was in 8th grade, in 1971.  By the time I was in high school,  
a year later, the pattern companies were showing most of their teen  
oriented dresses in both mini and long lengths.  And then there were  
the long skirts made by splitting a pair of jeans and adding wedges  
of fabric to the front and back.


Margo


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Re: [h-cost] Tudor Lady's Wardrobe Pattern

2009-06-15 Thread Margo Anderson


On Jun 15, 2009, at 2:02 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

 While I don't know the specific reasons Margo didn't include it  
anyway (she could have),


Mostly, it was a matter of space.  One more tissue sheet would have  
made the package too big to fit in our standard packaging or in a  
Priority Mail envelope, and I would have had to split the pattern up  
and create a separate underwear package.  Since the farthingale would  
have been virtually identical to the one in my Elizabethan  
underpinnings package, I chose to leave it out and let those who want  
to use a farthingale and/or separate corset, purchase that one.


For those who want a later Tudor look, as in the portrait of  
Elizabeth as a princess, I added a second set of cutting lines to the  
bodice so that it can be made with a pointed waist, and made sure  
that the skirt was full enough to accommodate a farthingale.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Hardewick Hall Portrait forepart replica?

2009-06-14 Thread Margo Anderson


On Jun 13, 2009, at 1:52 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:



Is it this one from Ninya's personal site?
http://www.kissthefrog.co.uk/queen.html


Yes!  thanks!

Margo
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[h-cost] Tudor Lady's Wardrobe Pattern, Now taking pre-orders!

2009-06-13 Thread Margo Anderson
By popular request, we are delighted to present our long awaited  
Tudor Lady's Wardrobe pattern!


This package gives you everything you need to dress the Tudor woman,  
from undergarments to accessories.
It's not just for the upper class lady: we also provide instructions  
and pattern pieces for the working class Tudor woman.

Includes:
•   Smock with detachable cuffs, and under partlet
•   Kirtle with supportive bodice, with three foresleeves
•   Gown with three sleeve choices and optional train
•   Two caps, English gable hood, and French hood
•   Over partlet, apron, and sash

This pattern includes a 100+ page manual with the same clear and  
detailed instructions that made our Elizabethan patterns world  
famous, and detailed historical notes by Tudor researcher Kimiko Small.


The patterns are at the printers and we expect to ship by mid July.

Go to http://www.margospatterns.com to order.

Thanks,

Margo
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[h-cost] Hardewick Hall Portrait forepart replica?

2009-06-13 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm trying to locate a photograph  of a stunning replica of the  
forepart from Queen Elizabeth I's Hardewick Hall portrait.  I could  
have sworn it was in the Tudor Tailor, but I can't find it there.   
A Google search didn't find it either.  Has my book lost a page?  Am  
I using the wrong search words?  Did I dream it?  Help!


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Mascara Advice

2009-06-08 Thread Margo Anderson
The Maybelline Beauty Tubes mascara is amazing.  I bought the  
regular, not the waterproof, and it stayed on through a very tearful  
therapy session.


Margo

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Re: [h-cost] Need info on fabric yarn storage

2009-05-03 Thread Margo Anderson
Also, don't store stuff in plastic grocery bags that have printing on  
them.  It transfers.  I never did get it off a formica countertop.


Margo

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Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods

2009-04-18 Thread Margo Anderson


In a message dated 4/15/2009 5:40:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sha...@collierfam.com writes:

Don't  use pleating tape, the pleats end up being only about 1/2  
deep, so
there  are a lot of them to sew. And the tape adds a lot of bulk.  
Instead
make a  facing with 1/4 gingham. That way you can easily make even  
pleats,
using  the gingham as a guide. I like making pleats 1 deep. Quick  
whip

stitches  and you're done!

I do cartridge pleats with no marking at all, just eyeballing them,  
and they come out fine.



Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Peacock Wedding Dress

2009-04-13 Thread Margo Anderson


On Apr 13, 2009, at 2:40 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote:


 Of course a dumpster covered in 2000 peacock feathers would be
awesome too.


Oh, Albert, I love you!  You always sum things up so perfectly.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] 1940s patterns (can anyone narrow down the date)

2009-04-01 Thread Margo Anderson
If you're considering Simplicity patterns, I'd recommend the ones  
designed by Theresa LaQuey.  She know the period inside and out, and  
does stunning custom work as well.  And she must have good education  
skills, because she managed to do something I was never able to pull  
off: She taught my sister how to sew!


Margo
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[h-cost] What would you make out of this fabric?

2009-03-03 Thread Margo Anderson
Someone gave me ten yards of 60 sheer wool.  It has a herringbone  
weave and it's very fine, if I hold it up to the light I can see  
through it.  It's bright turquoise, a color of which I'm not fond due  
to growing up with my mother's over fondness for it, so I'll probably  
dye it.


What should I make out of this?  I really need SCA camping clothes.   
My current interest areas are,  as usual, Elizabethan, Henrician,   
and 16th century Turkish or Persian, but I'm open to any pre-1600  
style that might be flattering and comfortable for a large lady. 
Suggestions?


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] What would you make out of this fabric?

2009-03-03 Thread Margo Anderson


On Mar 3, 2009, at 10:26 AM, Laura Chambers wrote:



Sell it to a Civil War Reenactor to make an amazing sheer dress out  
of.


I thought of that, but weren't they usually light colors?

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-03-02 Thread Margo Anderson


On Feb 28, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
Anyone know who this is?  She is using photos from various  
historic costuming sites (including mine) without permission.  I  
and several others have reported her to ebay and she has been  
extreeemly nasty about it.


Alas, the link or attached example was lost -- could you resend?   
(Am now very curious!)


Here's the link, from the same post Saragrace made to another list:

ttp://cgi.ebay.com/Muslin-Bum-Roll-Bustle-Renaissance-Fair-Pirate-SCA- 
SALE_W0QQitemZ330311003999QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0? 
hash=item330311003999_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66% 
3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50


If you click the me logo next to her eBay id you'll get her bio.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?

2009-03-02 Thread Margo Anderson
Ooops, sorry to have beaten this dead horse.  I failed to check the  
date.


Margo


On Mar 2, 2009, at 5:59 PM, Margo Anderson wrote:



On Feb 28, 2009, at 8:42 AM, Cynthia Virtue wrote:


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
Anyone know who this is?  She is using photos from various  
historic costuming sites (including mine) without permission.  I  
and several others have reported her to ebay and she has been  
extreeemly nasty about it.


Alas, the link or attached example was lost -- could you resend?   
(Am now very curious!)


Here's the link, from the same post Saragrace made to another list:

ttp://cgi.ebay.com/Muslin-Bum-Roll-Bustle-Renaissance-Fair-Pirate- 
SCA-SALE_W0QQitemZ330311003999QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0? 
hash=item330311003999_trksid=p3286.c0.m14_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66% 
3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50


If you click the me logo next to her eBay id you'll get her bio.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

2009-02-22 Thread Margo Anderson
Catherine Howard is wearing an Elizabethan loose gown with the  
sleeves ripped out, and the scalloped cuff from one of the sleeves  
pinned into place as a shoulder wing.



Margo
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[h-cost] 16th Century Ribbon?

2009-02-13 Thread Margo Anderson
I hope some of you textile history folks can help me:  In the 16th  
century, did the word ribbon mean a narrow woven textile, or could  
it also mean a narrow piece cut from wider fabric?


Margo
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[h-cost] Boning question

2009-02-10 Thread Margo Anderson


I'm pondering 16th century flat fronted bodies and kirtles, and the  
pair of bodies of Dorothea von Neuburg on page 113 of Patterns of  
fashion.


The boning comes up only to the bottom of the breast curves.  The  
Tudor Tailor references this boning pattern and says it's important  
to maintain the proper curved lines.


I've made a similar garment for myself and got a perfectly flat  
front, with no difference from the same garment made with the boning  
running over the breasts from the upper edge to the (slight raised)  
waistline.  Obviously bodies vary, so I'm asking if anyone has found  
a noticeable difference when using this boning pattern, and what it was?


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

2009-02-06 Thread Margo Anderson


On Feb 6, 2009, at 4:34 PM, Dianne wrote:

 They didn't want to fit through the (mind  blip, whatever the  
name is for that space between the needle part and  the body of the  
machine) 


I believe it's called the harp.


Thank you!  That was driving me crazy.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Reminder: Lectures in L.A.

2009-01-30 Thread Margo Anderson


On Jan 30, 2009, at 9:34 AM, Maggie wrote:

I was so excited when I heard about this, and I was planning to be  
there,but
I'm giving classes of my own at the Renaissance Symposium that  
weekend about
400 miles away, and there's just no way to do both. I have to hope  
that

you'll be back some time in the future.


I'll be at the Symposium as well, and my annoyance at missing Robin  
can only be mitigated by the fact that I'll finally get to meet  
Maggie.  We've been getting mistaken for each other for about 25  
years, so it's high time!


Margo
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[h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

2009-01-30 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer  
attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size  
buttons.  Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and  
I'm wondering, has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period  
corsets and bodices?


I have a progressive hand condition, so it's important for me to keep  
my handsewing to a minimum, and I can't bear the idea of using grommets!


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

2009-01-30 Thread Margo Anderson
I tried an eyelet plate and found it nearly impossible to use on  
large garments like dresses with big skirts, because of having to  
spin the fabric around it. They didn't want to fit through the (mind  
blip, whatever the name is for that space between the needle part and  
the body of the machine) How do you handle that?


Margo


On Jan 30, 2009, at 6:29 PM, Andrew T Trembley wrote:



On Jan 30, 2009, at 3:42 PM, Margo Anderson wrote:

I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer  
attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size  
buttons.  Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and  
I'm wondering, has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period  
corsets and bodices?


An eyelet plate will serve you better. The brick buttonhole foot  
still only does zig-zag, so you don't get the radial stitching of a  
true eyelet.


andy
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Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4

2008-11-07 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm not letting myself buy it until I finish my current project, in  
the hopes that it will help me force myself to finish.  You all are  
weakening my resolve considerably, though.


Margo


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[h-cost] Seeking A Patternmaker

2008-11-06 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm looking into contracting out some of my patternmaking work. I've  
contacted a number of companies, but I thought I'd try here as well.  
If anyone knows of an independant contractor with professional  
skills, references, and experience, who can supply electronic files  
of finished work, and who is enthusiastic about historical costume,  
please contact me at [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Thanks,

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Upcoming lecture plans: Ohio and L.A.

2008-07-30 Thread Margo Anderson


On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 10:35 PM, Robin Netherton  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

wrote:

The organizer would like to get a sense of how much
interest there is so she can choose a suitable venue.


I'll drive 400 miles for that!
(If gas is less than $10 a gallon by then, that is)

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] More help with Spanish gown

2008-06-30 Thread Margo Anderson
While we're on the subject of Spanish gowns...I'm very intrigued with  
the Spanish Mourning gown, as seen in Alcega.  It looks like a front  
buttoned doublet bodice and conical skirt in the front, but the back  
is one piece, very flared from the shoulders, with a false bodice  
underneath it, just like the saque backed gowns of the 18th century.


I've drafted it, and hope to get around to making up a prototype,  
with an eventual aim of producing it as a pattern. I think it would  
be good for those of us whose weight fluctuates, or for theatrical or  
rental wardrobes, and even for that awkward stage of pregnancy when  
none of your regular clothes fit but you don't really look pregnant yet.


I'm wondering about that mourning name, though.  Is anyone familiar  
with Spanish mourning customs of the period, who could tell me why on  
earth such a gown would be labeled thus?


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Doublet versus Court Gown

2008-06-11 Thread Margo Anderson
  don't think I have enough time to make a full court gown at this
 stage and should think about a doublet.

Actually, Court Gown doesn't necessarily mean a low necked bodice  
and skirt, any more than the modern evening gown means any specific  
style.  It's a description of the level of richness and  
ornamentation, not the cut or style of the garment.  A court gown  
could be a low necked bodice and skirt or it could a doublet bodice,  
probably with a matching skirt for this level of formality till quite  
late in the century.  It could also be a loose gown, which is like a  
coat that flares from the shoulders, or a fitted gown, which fits  
closely to the body and may or may not have a waistline seam.

I agree with Albert that a doublet would probably be more, not less,  
work than a simple fitted bodice and skirt.  Don't futz around with  
trimming details if you're short of time: find a beautiful brocade  
and let it do the work for you. This style is seen in a number of  
period paintings of female musicians, so it seems particularly  
appropriate here.

As to wearing the collar open, I would say yes, especially for a  
musician who needs ease of movement.  It was good enough for Mary,  
Queen of Scots, who was painted several times wearing a shirt or  
smock with a large ruff worn open.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants

2008-05-31 Thread Margo Anderson
  a cap was a
 badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned  
 them (even
 into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in  
 restaurants
 wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads)

I can recall most waitresses wearing caps and aprons well into the  
1960's, in rural California.

I think nurse's caps were more of a professional symbol, though.  I  
believe each nursing school had its own cap design.  I remember being  
in the hospital as a child, in 1967 or so, and being entranced with  
one nurse whose cap was a frilly little lampshade thing. I remember  
her saying it was a real pain to iron.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Number of machines.Was Sewing and Embroidery Machines

2008-05-11 Thread Margo Anderson
I have a Singer 20U commercial machine, a basic 4-thread serger, and  
a White Jeans machine for when I need a portable or free arm.I  
also have a 20 year old Viking I 've been carting around with me for  
years because it's too good to get rid of and too expensive to fix,  
sigh...and an older serger which I'm giving to a friend.

I'm hoping to investigate embroidery machines soon, but for now what  
I have does fine.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own

2008-05-09 Thread Margo Anderson
I still recommend this book to newbie costumers, especially teens,  
who are no end amused by its groovieness.

Margo

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Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold Image

2008-05-09 Thread Margo Anderson
Speaking of Ms. Arnold, does anyone know of any pictures of her? I  
just find it so strange that I have no idea what such an important  
person in our field looked like.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] silk brokade

2008-05-05 Thread Margo Anderson

 I am looking for a brokade of some sort, black and red. Or it could
 also be orange and red. The pattern should be renaissance.
 I found one at the Delectable Mountain fabric store wich was posted
 here some time ago, but its miniature format for dolls.

THANK YOU!  I've been looking for a red miniature Renaissance brocade  
for almost ten years!  Now I can finish the Ditchley Doll!

Margo

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Re: [h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt

2008-05-04 Thread Margo Anderson
I find it hard to believe that they would have applied trim like  
that.  My best guess is that the skirt is too big for the child and  
the front openings were folded back on themselves, but why they would  
do that for a formal portrait is beyond me.  Who knows, there's  
probably some terribly important symbology in it.

It also looks like the child is wearing a linen smock with a band of  
blackwork embroidery, no forepart or petticoats, which I haven't seen  
before.

Margo


On May 4, 2008, at 6:36 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg

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Re: [h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt

2008-05-04 Thread Margo Anderson

On May 4, 2008, at 7:10 PM, Bella wrote:

 I think it's an optical illusion. What at first looked to me like  
 an opening in the skirt, I now believe to be a blackworked  
 handkercheif/small towel pinned to the waist.

D'oh!  I see it now. :)

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Mid/Lower Class Womens Clothing - 1650

2008-04-24 Thread Margo Anderson

On Apr 24, 2008, at 10:59 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote:


 As far as Anne Bonny and Mary Read, most fairly comprehensive books on
 the history of pirates picture them as artists imagined them, not from
 life.

There's a contemporary woodcut of them.  They're wearing knee length,  
baggy smocks over long baggy trousers, and headrails that appear to  
be exposing stubbly scalp at the front.  Not exactly most people's  
vision of female pirates, alas.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards

2008-04-14 Thread Margo Anderson

On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:52 PM, Paula Praxis wrote:


 This a discussion that benefits all era of costume.  Agreed that  
 not all on this list work in theater but many of us do and to hear  
 from others about your experiences is great. I agree the modern  
 period is the most difficult to design for. I much  prefer period  
 plays.  however there are some times that are more difficult than  
 others.  I designed a play set in ancient Egypt.  I love archeology  
 and am aware that slaves in the real' ancient Egypt worked naked -  
 this didn't go over too well with my director - so I let her have  
 her way and designed slave costumes for the ensemble.

I'm helping with costumes for my 6th grader's class play,  which is  
set in Minoan era Crete.  Not surprisingly,  the teacher doesn't want  
historically accurate costumes.  We're putting them in chitons. :)

Margo
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[h-cost] CostumeCon Memberships for sale

2008-04-12 Thread Margo Anderson
 I have two memberships for sale at $65 each.  contact me at  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested.

Margo Anderson
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Re: [h-cost] Professional Pleaters - was Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Margo Anderson
When I was doing wedding dresses, I used San Francisco Pleating Co.   
There were no minimums, they were fine with pleating a yard or less.   
Here's contact info:

San Francisco Pleating Co.- 425 2nd St.,San Francisco, CA., 94107,  
(415)982-3003
Custom pleating. They do knife, accordion, crystal, box, mushroom and  
sunburst pleating on your cloth. Send business sized (#10) SASE for  
brochure.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

2008-02-12 Thread Margo Anderson
This reconstruction isn't what I would describe as provocative by  
modern standards!  Just goes to show what to what lengths the media  
will go to to sex things up.


Margo
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[h-cost] Fabric Shopping in China

2007-11-16 Thread Margo Anderson
My sister has just found out that she's going to Shanghai next week.   
Can anyone tell me what kind of silk, or other cool fabric,  she  
might be likely to find there, and what's a good price for it?


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Have I reached Heaven? :)

2007-11-01 Thread Margo Anderson

On Nov 1, 2007, at 11:27 AM, Tess wrote:

New to the list here and feel like I've found heaven!



Welcome to the list, Tess!  I remember that feeling...  I found H- 
costume when I was a broke mother of two small children with  no  
other means of interacting with adults who shared my passion.  It's  
been my community for a dozen years now, and has brought me a trove  
of information and some good friends.  When I was considering  
starting my business, I came here for help and advice, and found it.   
I truly think my life would have been very different, and not nearly  
as rewarding, without this list.


Margo Anderson


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[h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image

2007-10-17 Thread Margo Anderson
I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this image:  http:// 
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg


Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer  
this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the  
converging triangles on the black box on the back of her head? I  
think I see it, but I'm not sure.


Thanks to anyone who can help!

Margo Anderson
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Re: [h-cost] Prices in 1957

2007-08-27 Thread Margo Anderson


On Aug 21, 2007, at 5:58 AM, Catherine Kinsey wrote:


Would anyone know of a resource for finding the prices of things in
1957?  I'm not looking for a current value but what something would  
have

cost in 1957.  Specifically a cocktail length wedding dress??

My mother still has the silk chiffon cocktail dress she wore when she  
married my father in 1956. It was a second marriage, so the dress  
wasn't a standard wedding dress.  Hilariously, and completely in  
character, it turned out she forgot to cut the price tag off before  
the wedding, and it's still there.  It was from an expensive  
department store in Los Angeles, she thinks it was called  
Robinson's.  The price was $125.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] 1920s

2007-07-16 Thread Margo Anderson


On Jul 7, 2007, at 2:53 PM, otsisto wrote:


Soon the word brassiere was abandoned for bra and ever since
in fashion history we have referred to the bra.

I don't think the word was abandoned that early.  My mother is 75,  
meaning she probably bought her first bras in the mid 40's, and she  
always calls them brassieres (which led to my mortification on  
shopping trips when I was old enough to need one).


Margo.
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Re: [h-cost] upcoming book

2007-06-07 Thread Margo Anderson


Title: The Worldwide History of Dress: the Origins of Fashion from  
the Paleolithic to the Present.


Wow!  Nothing like a narrow, specific focus. I look forward to seeing  
how they did this in 608 pages.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Re: Wal-Mart fabric

2007-04-09 Thread Margo Anderson

I'm in one of those small towns that only have Wal-mart for fabric.

Some of what I've found on the sale tables there:

heavyweight cotton herringbone twill, perfect for making corsets, $1  
a yard

cotton duck canvas, $1
aubergine crepe back satin, $2
black slinky knit, $1
plaid taffeta, 60, $2
soft black stretch netting, $1
silver and black paisley brocade, $3
batik printed chiffon, $1
cotton gauze, in black, white, natural, and purple, $2
silk chiffon, $2.99

At those prices, I usually buy the bolt, sometimes several bolts.

Margo


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Re: [h-cost] 1960s/1970s Fringed Clothing for Males

2007-04-03 Thread Margo Anderson
I remember fringed jackets as Western wear.  My mother had one that  
she had purchased in the early 50's.  She's never quite forgiven me  
(nor have I forgiven myself) for leaving it out in the rain.


I don't think they were around much  in the early 60's.  My brother  
saved his money up for one, but my parents couldn't find one anywhere  
near us, even though we lived in rural California where Western wear  
was the norm.  They finally found one on a trip to, of all places,  
New York City!


Didn't Dennis Hopper wear a fringed jacket in Easy Rider?

Margo


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[h-cost] Looking For Drea

2007-03-23 Thread Margo Anderson
Does anyone have a good contact for Drea Leed?  I've gotten no  
answers to emails I've sent to the address on her website.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] detachable sleeves

2007-03-20 Thread Margo Anderson
Also, detachable sleeves are much easier to fit,  since they don't  
have to be eased into an armhole.


Margo


On Mar 20, 2007, at 7:39 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I love the woman in green in the back of the center one.  Her  
sleeves are still
attached to her bodice, but her arms aren't in them, and they're  
pinned (I

assume) behind her, out of the way.
Emma

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

This might help with seeing some reasons for detached sleeves  
though it

is
of later era.
http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk1.html
http://festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/wk8.html

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Re: [h-cost] OT - +size swimwear

2006-10-13 Thread Margo Anderson
I haven't bought swimwear from them, but Land's end is usually very  
good quality.  I believe they have some closeout priced swimwear  
right now.


Margo


On Oct 13, 2006, at 3:45 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:


Lorina,

You might want to find some swimwear store in Florida.  It is  
snowbird season, so they might have a good selection.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com
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