Re: [h-cost] grid board tutorial
I'm not sure I'm conveying my question clearly, so let me try again. I'm using The Tudor Tailor to design the next round of costuming for my husband. All of my previous experience is with modifying/altering commercial paper patterns, and I can do this fairly easily, including resizing. The Tudor Tailor patterns are printed on a grid within the book. It is my understanding that I need to hand-draw the pattern, life size, using a gridded mat. If I need to enlarge or shrink the pattern, may I do so by using the grid directly (increase all lines by 1/2 square, for example) and save myself having to draw out the original size first, or do I first have to follow the grid exactly and then increase/decrease using the regular rules for pattern grading? A tutorial on using the gridded mat to transfer the pattern from book to life-size would be appreciated. Natalie On 11/18/2013 5:03 PM, claudine wrote: I googled enlarging with a grid and came up with a number of sites and YouTube vids, aimed at taking a small image (works the same for a photograph or cartoon as it does for a pattern) and enlarging it like you would with a copy machine. Is that what you're looking for? If you mean to change dress size (like, from size 10 to size 12 or vice versa) then you need to look up pattern grading or grading patterns but that doesn't necessarily require a grid. Claudine From: Natalie natali...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 1:47 PM Subject: [h-cost] grid board tutorial Could someone point me to an online tutorial on how to use a pattern grid board to: 1. Copy a pattern from a book that is on a grid (like in The Tudor Tailor) 2. Use that grid to make the pattern a larger/smaller size. I'm used to working with tissue patterns, so this is new territory for me. Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] grid board tutorial
Could someone point me to an online tutorial on how to use a pattern grid board to: 1. Copy a pattern from a book that is on a grid (like in The Tudor Tailor) 2. Use that grid to make the pattern a larger/smaller size. I'm used to working with tissue patterns, so this is new territory for me. Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Queen Victoria's private journals
I don't know if there will be much costume-related content in Queen Victoria's private journals, but until June 30th, you can read them for free at http://www.queenvictoriasjournals.org/ Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Subject: artificial whalebone
It was not my intention to suggest using the milk jugs for human use. The original poster said she's working on dolls, and I suggested it for small projects like dolls. Perhaps my wording could have been better, but clearly it is too thin to use for boning for humans. Natalie On 11/17/2011 4:57 PM, lynlee o wrote: I have used the thicker lids of ice cream containers as inners for caps. It cuts well and you can actually put the odd stitch into it. It stood up to kids and has a nice firm maliability. Milk jugs here are now way too thin to be useful to me, and they break down into sharp bits quickly in the sun - I used then as garden cloches for vege plants. Diane Someone suggested to me once that cutting strips from a milk jug makes wonderful boning for smaller projects, like dolls. I haven't had time to test it myself, but it seems like a pretty good idea. You can always double up on layers if you need it a bit stiffer too. Natalie From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberggilshal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:01 AM Subject: [h-cost] artificial whalebone Greetings, Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise? I've tried soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess and sore hands. I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would make good doll boning in and of ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone
Someone suggested to me once that cutting strips from a milk jug makes wonderful boning for smaller projects, like dolls. I haven't had time to test it myself, but it seems like a pretty good idea. You can always double up on layers if you need it a bit stiffer too. Natalie From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberggilshal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:01 AM Subject: [h-cost] artificial whalebone Greetings, Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise? I've tried soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess and sore hands. I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would make good doll boning in and of itself. If anyone has suggestions, I would love to hear them! Cheers, Danielle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Uniquely you replacement cover
I haven't dealt with sewvacdirect.com, but I was especially pleased with my experience with allbrands.com, and they are offering the covers for the same price. http://www.allbrands.com/products/abp04724.html The only downside to dealing with them is I was automatically signed up for their coupon/newsletters, but I just haven't bothered unsubscribing. Never know when I might see something I like. Speaking of coupons, let me see if I have one... Ah good. $5 off any purchase. Use the code save5 when you get ready to check out. Natalie On 11/3/2011 7:30 PM, Cin wrote: Ladies gents, I'm in the market for a new cover for a recent adopted Uniquely You dressmakers dummy. A friend pulled her out of a dumpster. She's been washed in the process the cover shredded must be replaced. I'd shop locally but there's no one near who seems to carry covers only. I'm forced to check online. Does anyone have info, good or bad about this vendor? http://www.sewvacdirect.com/uniquelyyou-cvr5.html The price is pretty reasonable. I've never heard of them before. In the meantime, I see about finding a replacement stand for her. Thanks all! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles
Something I do from time to time, inspired by the Rapunzel site: Take the top half of my hair and twist it into a rope as if I were going to do a bun. But instead of putting all the hair in one tight knot, I wrap it around in a gradually bigger spiral on top of my head. Pin like crazy with all the pins pointing toward the center and tuck the end under. Take the bottom half and split it into half vertically. Twist and wrap it up and around the spiral, increasing the size of the original. Keep pinning like mad. Finally, take the last section, twist, and wrap in the same direction as the second hank of hair. Keep pinning and tucking under the end. I use about 25-30 pins for this. Mine is mid-back length, coarse and curly. You may need more or less depending on your hair type and length. I get compliments on this about how amazing, pretty, complicated, and old-fashioned it looks every time I do it. Natalie On 10/20/2011 10:59 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: Wow, that's an amazing site! Too bad most of them are really too complicated to do in the morning... I'll really have to get dressed quickly... I'll be sure to steal some of her tricks though :-) Thank you! On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 4:04 PM, Sharon Colliersha...@collierfam.comwrote: Try here: http://rapunzelsresource.wordpress.com/style-index/ -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 12:54 PM To: Liste Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles Good afternoon, I'm putting the finishing touches on my Halloween costume - actually, a dress from various Truly Victorian patterns. I need ideas about what to do with my hair. It's long and very straight. I need something easy that I can do relatively quickly in the morning. It doesn't need to be historical, I'm already planning on makeup that won't be historical, but I'd still like something that keeps in with the style of the period. Any ideas? References? Pictures? Techniques? I'm all ears... Thank you! Audrey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pink?
From a layman's perspective, it is interesting to find out that a pink is a type of carnation. My mother, an avid gardener, often planted both pinks and carnations. I never knew they were in the same family since the carnations I am used to are a more rounded flower like mum with many layers of petals, where as it looks as though most pinks have only a single layer of petals. Thanks for the excuse to google some flower pics :) Natalie On 9/25/2011 2:22 PM, Bambi TBNL wrote: this is a two part question . first is the flower originally called the pink, what we , today, call a carnation or the origin of that flower? if it is, is the regular jagged edge, part of the origin of the term pinking?. Im trying to use this for a masked ball i plan to attend soon where the theme is...come as your favorite pun. t i would appreciate and sources if ya happen to have them as i am totally lost. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes
Especially the whole scimitar thing for Miss Ireland. Poor lass... scimitars weren't used by the Irish. Poor Miss Nigeria. I really liked Miss Sri Lanka, Miss Neatherlands, Miss Georgia, Miss El Salvador, and Miss Denmark! Natalie On 9/12/2011 6:29 PM, Tracy Thallas wrote: What on earth is Miss Ireland wearing? And Miss Spain should be really mad at somebody... Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha, OFO Practical Blackwork Designs http://practicalblackwork.com http://practical-blackwork.blogspot.com You get a wonderful view from the point of no return... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
Are you planning to broadcast via webcam so I can attend? :D I've not attempted to do this yet, and the only way I could imagine how to do it was put it on an overhead projector. I'm sure that's not what was intended. Natalie On 8/8/2011 12:48 PM, Maggie Halberg wrote: I'm teaching a workshop on how to scale up patterns of original garments that have been drawn out such as the ones you see from Janet Arnold. I'm trying to compile a lit of sources for these patterns. Other than the usual suspects of Janet Arnold and Jean Hunnisette does anyone have any sources for these types of patterns? Maggie Halberg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] July Event at the Riversdale House Museum
That sounds like a ton of fun! If only MD and MI were closer to each other... Natalie On 6/17/2011 9:21 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: The Art of Housewifery Riversdale House Museum 4811 Riverdale Road, Riverdale Park MD 20737 Saturday, July 16, 2011 9:30 am to 4:00 pm Spend the day learning skills the early 19th century housewife used to manage her household efficiently. Create ensembles from reproduction apparel and accessories, sort out layers of bed linens and mark your own items to take home; keep household accounts; churn butter and prepare cold side dishes for lunch; harvest and use herbs from the garden; and taste teas and choose your favorite to take home. Katie Cannon of Ageless Artifice will demonstrate stain removal, moth prevention, and insect fumigation techniques. Cost of the program is $60, and advance payment is required by July 8. Call 301-864-0420 or email riversd...@pgparks.com for more information. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] coifs
Well, at least now I know my kids aren't the only babies that are always trying to stick their hands down the front of my shirt. Elizabethan babies apparently did the same! Natalie On 5/24/2011 9:14 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote: Hi Bjarne, There are very few images of upper-class ladies wearing coifs, which is to say that they may have been more commonly worn at home. However, here's one from the 1560s: http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg and another from 1567: http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Theophila.jpg The triangle in the front is a forehead cloth worn with the point forward over the coif. Some people have found images that they think are forehead cloths worn under coifs or forehead cloths worn over coifs with the point backward. These are mostly on lower-class women. There are some extant forehead cloths if you're interested. Cheers, Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] costumes in Dangerous Liaisons
I just watched the movie Dangerous Liaisons last night for the first time. Unbelievably, I had never heard of it before. I was quite thrilled by the beautiful outfits! I don't really know anything about 18th c. French clothing, but it was certainly nice eye-candy. I especially liked the beginning scene where they were dressing. Were they sewing her into her bodice? Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costumes in Dangerous Liaisons
I didn't realize there was more then one version, but I watched the 1988 version with Glenn Close and John Malkovich. Natalie On 5/7/2011 9:00 PM, Franchesca wrote: Well, depends, which version of Dangerous Liaisons were you watching? :) (For the record, I thought they were all BEAUTIFULLY done costume wise). :) Franchesca : -Original Message- : From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- : boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Natalie : Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 5:00 PM : To: Historical Costume : Subject: [h-cost] costumes in Dangerous Liaisons : : I just watched the movie Dangerous Liaisons last night for the first : time. Unbelievably, I had never heard of it before. I was quite thrilled : by the beautiful outfits! I don't really know anything about 18th c. : French clothing, but it was certainly nice eye-candy. I especially liked : the beginning scene where they were dressing. Were they sewing her into : her bodice? : : Natalie : ___ : h-costume mailing list : h-costume@mail.indra.com : http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] historical costume in miniature
I was unaware of the series of Historical Costumes for Barbie. I have tried to google every thing I could think of during my search for Barbie in historical dress, but my searches did not find much, with exceptions made for a very few one-of-a-kind garments. Lots for 15-16 dolls. Could you give me some links? I'd be interested in seeing the books too, just so I know what is out there. I'd love to see your pictures of your collection, if you have them somewhere to share? My intention, to answer Kathleen and Denise's question, is to create historically accurate clothing for Barbie, within the time and effort constraints that I currently have. Meaning, I want them to look good, be reasonably accurate, and have all appropriate layers, but I'm not going to hand stitch everything nor agonize over fabric choices (too much!) and will make concessions. I also have to take into consideration that I have much of my time taken up by 2 boys under 3, so I have limited sewing time... to make any progress at all, some concessions have to be made :) Thank you so much for all of your input so far. It has been so great! Natalie On 1/16/2011 9:39 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Since my retirement about three years ago, I have been continuing my interest in historical costume by making Costume in miniature; the series is captured in a collection I have named Cut Down to Size.? To date I have recreated style and splender for about 120 characters which are modeled for the most part on dolls. About the only 'model I have not used is Barbie precisely because the form is so ridged. Oz's suggestion would work well if the model is only to wear Costume for this period.? The body would of course have to be rewrapped for other periods. ? You are aware?I assume of the series of Historical Costumes for barbie that are out there, including wigs. There are also at least two books of costume for contemporary popular dolls that?I know of for this sort of project.? I do not use them myself because the patterns are not historically sound. Kathleen, who is having a ball every day! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
I'm taking my passion for Barbie in a new direction (she previously only kept my crochet hook busy). I know I have seen a very well done website detailing how to make early Elizabethan underpinnings for Barbie, but now my google-fu fails me and I don't have it bookmarked either. It is not so much the pattern construction that eludes me as what to use to stiffen the corset to create the conical 'Bethan shape instead of Barbie's hourglass. If anyone has any ideas or can point me to the site I am wondering about, it would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
Oh yes, thank you! Such an inspiration. Thanks for the link, and thanks for all the suggestions so far! Natalie On 1/14/2011 12:51 PM, Ann Catelli wrote: molendrix maybe?? http://www.molendrix.com/ Ann in CT --- On Fri, 1/14/11, Natalienatali...@gmail.com wrote: I'm taking my passion for Barbie in a new direction (she previously only kept my crochet hook busy). I know I have seen a very well done website detailing how to make early Elizabethan underpinnings for Barbie, but now my google-fu fails me and I don't have it bookmarked either. It is not so much the pattern construction that eludes me as what to use to stiffen the corset to create the conical 'Bethan shape instead of Barbie's hourglass. If anyone has any ideas or can point me to the site I am wondering about, it would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
Oh very helpful link,thank you! I'm going for a skin-out accuracy... as much as possible anyway with machine sewing. I'm just going to have to be careful in my fabric selection so there isn't too much bulk. I'll be sure to share pics when I'm done, though it may be a long process since I'm also a SAHM to 2 busy boys under 3! Natalie On 1/14/2011 1:58 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: It just occurred to me, for a body that small I would skip the underpinnings, and build the structure into the gown itself. The underpinnings may add to much bulk to make the garment look right. It just comes down to your goal, accurate from the skin out or merely accurate to the eye. Here's some more photos to give you ideas, just look for the links that say Doll Size. http://www.farthingales.on.ca/album.htm Claudine - Original Message From: Natalienatali...@gmail.com To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, January 14, 2011 9:18:29 AM Subject: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie I'm taking my passion for Barbie in a new direction (she previously only kept my crochet hook busy). I know I have seen a very well done website detailing how to make early Elizabethan underpinnings for Barbie, but now my google-fu fails me and I don't have it bookmarked either. It is not so much the pattern construction that eludes me as what to use to stiffen the corset to create the conical 'Bethan shape instead of Barbie's hourglass. If anyone has any ideas or can point me to the site I am wondering about, it would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early Elizabethan Corsets for Barbie
On 1/14/2011 3:57 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Suggestion: Since Barbie doesn't _need_ the support, make it to-the-eye look good, and use boning (toothpicks, giggle!) only in front, so the clothing doesn't collapse in the underboob space she has. And don't use bones in the sides or back. Just stitch channels and don't fill 'em. You'll need edge stiffeners, front and back, so you can lace the bodies. I had thought about leaving bones out altogether and perhaps stiffening the entire garment with an interlining of some type, then doing false channels. Perhaps buckram? But your suggestion of just doing the front is also appealing! On 1/14/2011 3:08 PM, Alexandria Doyle wrote: You might find the work easier to do with hand rather than machine. I have found that the smaller the doll and costume the easier it was to sew by hand. One of the things is that seam widths are easier to keep to the narrow by hand and that will help with the bulk too. alex So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with… That would be so true, but my hand sewing is absolutely terrible. Some would argue that to be an excellent opportunity for practicing my skills but... :) I'm fairly well used to small seam allowances. When I learned to sew, it was by having the fabric follow the edge of the foot rather then the seam allowance guild on the sewing machine. I do imagine I'll end up hand sewing at least part of it though. Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
Andrew T Trembley wrote: snip The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down the waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion of a smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little interior support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the need for compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be really tight to do its job. andy I confess that my knowledge of period correct corsetry is still rather new, within the last two years or so, but I have not seen reference to this interior pillow before. Do you have some sources you can refer me to? I am a larger woman myself and if this is a more comfortable alternative then compression, I'll be glad to experiment with it. Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
Sorry, I should have been more clear. By sources, I meant some images of how this is done currently. I'm not worried about accuracy or authenticity of my undies :) Just comfort and the right silhouette. Natalie Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset. It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm twinkie sized support pillow, without which they would not have been able to achieve the right silhouette. Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front. None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in portraits and sculpture. If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a cheat, it's a completely invisible cheat. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fabric storage
I'm sorry, I can't help give an opinion about those vacuum pack bags as I haven't used them. I do know that they have those types of bags for garments, and I'm sure they could be adapted to fabric. I've seen them advertised on TV with the people packing away sweaters, blankets, pillows, etc. I don't know how effective they are. Another thought I had was those zippered bags like the ones that comforters come in when they are new. I'm sure you could find them in a storage/organization type store. Or how about tupperware tubs? I know they don't seal airtight, but unless you are going to be diving into them often, you could seal the lid with duct tape. I hope that helps! Natalie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm moving and having to put a bunch of my fabric into a storage locker (climate controlled). The problem is that when I took a bunch of stuff out of the attic at my current place, I found a silver fish (a bug that eats fabric among other things). I'm repacking, throwing away the boxes, and washing all most all the fabric, but I am still concerned that I might take a bug or two with me. Has anyone used the vacuum pack thingies that are for food to pack fabric for storage? I was thinking that that way I could at least isolate my best stuff. But I live in the great northwest where it is rather damp and I am worried that things might just mold if I do that. Does anyone have suggestions? Tia, Susan (moving to Seattle from the eastside) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques...
Here you go, Sharon. Natalie - Original Message - From: Melanie Schuessler To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] filigree metal plaques... I've used some from these pages before: http://www.natures-gems.com/mefi.html http://www.natures-gems.com/plgo.html They're thin enough that you can bend them if you try, but I have a girdle and carcanet made from some with glass pearls in between, and they've held up for years. Melanie Schuessler Melody Watts wrote: Hi, Does anyone know where you can purchase filigree metal plaques for making a Tudor / Elizabethan girdle? I'd like to be able to glue stones to the plaques to dress them up. I know there are people selling these girdles premade, so they have to be getting them from somewhere. Thanks Melody - Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT - Thai fisherman type trousers: what do youmake to wear in the heat?
I have seen it done also where people have sort of extended the bottom hem of the pants to make ties at the ankles so that the legs don't flap open or get in the way. Natalie Anyway, I'm trying to adapt a Burda pattern to be more like traditional thai fisherman 'wrap' trousers, which are open at the outer sides (and therefore cooler to wear and hang nicely) and wondered if anyone had tried making a pair based on originals they had purchased perhaps on holiday. Folkwear have re-published their pattern for these kinds of trousers. They are simply the front and back of a pair of very wide-legged trousers, joined at the crotch and inside legs only. You then take the back part, and tie them round the front - I actually use hooks and eyes here. Pick up the front part and tie them at the back, overlapping the back at the sides. (You can do this the other way around - I find this way easiest.) I made my pair from an old pair of trousers, and just widened the side seams, but I went a bit too far, and even on me, an English size 24 there is too much fabric in the legs! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress
Thank you for this fantastic link! I have often wondered where I might find doll patterns like this. Natalie - Original Message - From: Zuzana Kraemerova To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 3:13 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pirates otC dress I know a wonderful costumer who makes costumes for dolls according to famous movies like Star wars, LOTR, ... and also Pirates OtC! On her webpage there is a beautiful gallery of her dresses and for each of them a detailed diary with the patterns she used. Here is the gallery-page: http://www.molendrix.com/galerie1.html And here an Elisabeth Swan plum dress diary: http://molendrix.com/plum1.html Though the patterns shown are for dolls, they give a good idea about the shape of the pattern and I found many times very helpful. Alas, the pattern for the plum dress includes only the bodice and the wide sleeves, but I think the patterns for skirt and other parts of the dress are not very hard to make up:-) Zuzana - Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing
I charge by the job, but my husband says I always undercharge. Natalie - Original Message - From: Sylvia Rognstad To: Historical Costume Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 12:17 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Charging for sewing I charge by the hour. The problem is doing a proper estimate beforehand. I almost always underestimate. Sylrog On Jul 20, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote: Dear Listees, I have been asked by some folks to make some costumes for them. Problem is, I've only worked in community theatre before and that doesn't pay anything (about $300 per show). For those of you that do sewing as a business, how much do you charge for sewing? Do you charge by the job or the hour? Any help in this would be greatly appreciated. Sharon C. Young lovers seek perfection, Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches - How To Make An American Quilt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What do you do?
I go through phases where I just can't motivate myself to work on yet another costume. Sometimes, I don't want to bother with all the preparation and time involved in going to a live action roleplay event. That's when I take a break for a month or two, and then I'm ready to go again! I hope things work out for you, Bjarne. I am new to the list, but have loved looking at every picture you put up. You are truely more talented then I will ever be. Natalie I'm an addict, but the only 12 Step program I'm interested in is the twelve steps from here over to that bolt of fabric over there... - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 3:38 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do? Hi Carolyn You are always full of god soutions, you never stopped replying my mails.' Many thanks. I think i am going to stop now.. Its over... Bjarne - Original Message - From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 9:32 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] What do you do? What do you do when you finally realise you dont want to reenact anymore, and when your costumes gets bored to look at? When alll your reenactment friends leaves you, and your family two? What is left then? Wait till the feeling passes and do some more re-enactment later? Get different re-enactment friends? Write historical fiction? Costume for a theatre? Do live action role playing gaming? CarolynKayta Barrows dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian www.FunStuft.com ///\ -@@\\\ 7 ))) )(( ))( * ) ( * /\ /---\ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons?
Instead of scissors, you could maybe try using tin snips. They can cut pretty thick metal, so it might be easier on your hands to use those. Natalie - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews To: Historical Costume Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons? Hi Heather, Thanks for your valuable informations. I went to a craftstore, after work today, and found stainless steel plates. They are just the thickness i want. I just cut out a flower with my scissors, worked ok, but it is a little difficult. Then i hammered holes with a nail and hammer, worked fine two. Its very difficult to draw the shape to the steel because it goes away when i touch with my fingers, but i thoaght about tracing the flower to painting tape, wich i then will take over the steel, and then cut out. Then remove the tape after. I can imagine it is better to stamp out the shapes, but i want a particular shape, because i want the same as an embroidered suit has, guess my skills will improve with the numbers i make. Thanks a lot for your help Heather... Bjarne - Original Message - From: heather jones [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 23, 2006 5:29 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] silver foil tape for Paillons? On Jun 22, 2006, at 12:16 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Hi, In recreating materials found in 18th century embroidery, i thoaght i might could use this for shaped spangels or Paillons as they were called. These were cut from silver plates, and often vernished in different shining collours. I would like to try it. Does any of you know this material? Is it hard to cut out, can you use an ordinary scissors? I am in need of some cut like a flower with 5 leaves. Also how would you make the holes for sewing? I am making silver embroidery, but i am not sattisfied with those flowers i use as a substitute for Paillons, they are two dimentional, should be more flat. Greatly apreciate if any of you have tryed it! I don't remember if my friend Chris is on this list -- she would give a better answer than me on her experiments with these. She has been having some success making paillons (or bezants under one of the medieval names) out of thin metal sheets sold for craft purposes. To make the shape, she uses stamps sold for stamping leather, which come in a lot of the same types of shapes that were used historically for these. You place the metal sheet on a surface that is stiff but will give a little. A thick piece of leather works very well. Then stamp the shapes using the stamps and a hammer. After that you can cut them out of the sheet using ordinary scissors (but don't use scissors you ever plan to use for fabric again!) and punch holes for sewing using a heavy needle or a small awl, again using the leather as a backing. It seems to work best if you stamp all the shapes on the metal sheet first and then cut them all out at the same time. Chris has been working mostly with brass but I think the same technique would work with silver (if you want to spend the money!) or with silver-plated brass or copper. Heather -- !! Computer crash lost recent e-mail -- please contact if I owe you mail !! [EMAIL PROTECTED] heatherrosejones.com lj:hrj ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Changes at Joann's
I will be needing to buy underpinnings materials very soon for a mid-1600's corset and farthingale. Should I use linen as the lining for the corset? Would this linen be heavy enough to use? What should I use on the outer side? I think I heard someone mention duck cloth before, but that seems awfully heavy. What should I use for the farthingale? I don't feel the need to go 100% authentic on this, especially since it won't be visable, but I do want it to breath well. Michigan summers are HOT! Natalie I'm an addict, but the only 12 Step program I'm interested in is the twelve steps from here over to that bolt of fabric over there... - Original Message - From: Dawn To: Historical Costume Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 12:55 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Changes at Joann's- (was Europa trims) Susan B. Farmer wrote: Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: In a message dated 6/20/2006 11:18:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Ah, but the linen-cotton blend is on sale for half off right now, making it $3.99 a yard. Good chemise weight? What I saw at my local stores was heavier than that, good for a shirt perhaps, or a summer dress. I've been eyeing it too, and if I buy any I will probably use it as lining. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: ribbon embroidery frame
How about clamping it to a large, sturdy picture frame with the back and glass taken out? Or maybe clamping it to a yard stick? I was thinking that would be similar to pinning to a pillow, but without the risk of embroidering onto the pillow. Natalie - Original Message - From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2006 5:48 PM Subject: [h-cost] ribbon embroidery frame, water-dissolving interfacing? I need some bright ideas. I'm planning to make my own goldwork embroidery trim, by embroidering some heavy silk satin ribbon; I'll be doing it both on some 5/8 wide and some 1 wide ribbon. The embroidery is going to be a continuous design, and longer than any frames I've seen, so I won't be able to fit it into a normal embroidery frame without wrecking it. I thought of pinning it to a pillow, but I can't figure out any practical way to do that without accidentally embroidering into the pillow itself. Ideas? Also, long ago I did graphic design for an embroidery company. To back the embroidery, one of the things they used was a type of interfacing that dissolved when sprayed with water. Does anyone know the name of this stuff, or brand names of something similar but perhaps a bit more substantial? The ribbon is black, and all the traditional methods I've experimented with to mark the design just did not work well; there's too much fiddly detail in the design for anything that actually shows up. I'm hoping to mark the design on an easily removeable interfacing instead. (My last ditch idea is to paint the design on, but that seems like it will take forever and make it really hard to accurately render the design.) -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look; what to pay?
Haha, want another? I've been trying to get rid of an older White electric for some time and don't seem to be in a good area for it. - Original Message - From: Megan M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 09, 2006 5:18 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hand crank, treadle machines--where to look; what to pay? Where are you located? There is a group, treadle-on, hosted on Quiltropolis (or go to www.treadleon.net and cruise around) that is all about fixing and using these old machines. There are over 1000 people on that list, and we all have antique sewing machine problems (read large collections.). Some of my best ones I've gotten for free, some I've paid good money for. Keep looking and pay attention at yard sales and flea markets. And, if you are in my area, you can see my collection and maybe persuade me to part with a machine head or hand crank machine (but I'm not sure any of my treadles can leave and I just bought another one, damn it, once I pick that one up I'll have 8 working treadles in the house. plus around 30+ electric or hand crank heads .) *Sigh* -Megan -Original Message- Cynthia Abel wrote: snip Can you still find any for a reasonable price, or are reproductions being made? Or should I get a Tardis and go back to 1975 and snatch my grandmother's? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Cotton conundrum?
For some reason, I can never find Threads articles online, but I was able to find these website about color-grown cottons: http://www.perunaturtex.com/scientif.htm and http://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/ilives/lecture12.html and http://www.vreseis.com/sally_fox_story.htm Natalie http://www.fantasy-sewing.com I'm an addict, but the only 12 Step program I'm interested in is the twelve steps from here over to that bolt of fabric over there... - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 02, 2006 2:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] Cotton conundrum? Forwarded from a friend: - Dating back to ancient Egypt, India and Peru, short-fiber cotton was grown in a variety of natural colors (tan, red, green, gray, and brown). Around 300 B.C.,, Alexander the Great brought the vegetable wool to Europe, and the natural varieties flourished there for centuries. This is a direct quote from the back page of Threads magazine (July 2006 number 125), which shows a picture of colored cotton. I wasn't aware that you could grow colored cotton and thought I would share this. This somehow sounds strange to me, does anyone here know the validity of it? Sheridan P. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Current projects
I'm currently working on a wedding party. I'm doing doublets for the groom and two ushers. I'm also slowly but surely gathering fabrics for my Elizabethan gown. Natalie The only twelve-step program I want to be in, is the 12 steps from my fabric to my sewing machine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?
Oh, and coincidentally to the sewing conversation, we wondered if it was a given that costume makers, whether professional, gifted amateur, or occasional maker, have cats? All the ones I know do. Suzi (about to sew the 5th Mary Queen of Scots costume, and putting it off!) Sadly, I don't have cats due to the hubby being deathly allergic. But I wish I did! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Oh, I definitely will, and have! That's just the one I had on hand at the moment. Natalie - Original Message - From: monica spence To: Historical Costume Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 10:14 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help Hi Natalie-- There are references that I have found that say Eleonora's steel corsets were made by Master Lorenzo (I think that was his name...) who was Cosimo's cuirassier (armor maker). She wanted these to give her support so she could make public appearances with Cosimo. My opinion about Norris: While he was a wonderful source for his time, much has been written since then. If you need to look at his work, follow it up with work from more modern scholars. It takes some work to do it, but it is out there. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Natalie Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 9:57 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about the velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from TB on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death. In the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended for the modern woman). Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research. I know not many like Norris, but I'm almost positive I've seen this in other places... I just can't find it at the moment. Anyway, in Tudor Costume and Fashion in the part about corsets, he has a drawing, copied from an existing iron corset from about 1530. He writes a whole paragraph on it, but basically says that these were somewhat common in England from 1533 to the 1580's, being made from iron and covered with soft leather, silk, or other materials.they were hinged on one side and fastened by hook and/or bolts. He says they were first made by Italians and Catherine de' Medici brought some in her trousseau when she came to France in 1533. So... take it with a grain of salt, it coming from Norris, but like I said, I am almost positive I've seen this elsewhere. I'm not sure if your question about the metal corset was about Eleanora specifically, or the corsets in general, but I hope that helps! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] more gown help
With my dress design, there will be puffs and slashes in the sleeves, shoulder rolls and bodice front and back. However, in cosideration of how the layers go onto the body: Chemise, corset and farthingale, then bodice/sleeves/skirts... where do the puffs come from in the bodice? Are they false puffs? If they are false, it would be interesting to make them interchangeable so I can change the colors/look of the dress. Also, if they are false puffs, I may consider doing the same to the shoulder roll and sleeve puffs. Thanks in advance! Just for refresher, my gown is based on Eleanor of Toledo, but here is the actual design: http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Hello everyone, I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one, but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice was of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in the waist. The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have been lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold. The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with bents, or a pair of bodies, set into the linen lining, to support an underskirt of velvet. So that's the back story. Based on that gown and the Elizabeth 1575 gown, I have designed the following: http://www.fantasy-sewing.com/images/dressconcept.jpg My question is, if I wear a standard corset and farthingale, is there really any need for the heavy under-bodice/skirt combo (kirtle?)? I am not sure yet what I will make the overdress of, but it will probably be interlined brocade, with something lighter for the underskirt and an interchangeable forepart. I live in Michigan, and the faires here are held in the late heat of summer, so I don't want to make it too heavy! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
Monica, Thanks for the insight! I knew she had had many children, and was a woman of substance (like me!) but I didn't know how she had died. The velvet bodice makes perfect sense as an alternative to the steel corset for an aging/dying woman. Thanks for the help! Natalie - Original Message - From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 8:04 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help Hi Natalie-- You can make the gown without an underbodice and kirtle over a corset. How many people at the Faire will notice? You are the one dealing with the heat! About The Eleonora dress: The red velvet pair of bodies was lines with (believe it or not) paper. It had no bones. You could probably substitute a hair canvas or a type of buckram that does not react to heat/ sweat. It was not made for the gown she was buried in-- it was too big and had a different waistline. Now here is the story behind this. Eleonora died in December of 1562 and was NOT embalmed. Getting from Pisa, where she died, to Florence, where she was buried, took days since she was being moved in a train with wagons and horses, etc. I am sure that there was not a lot of ice around in those days (Poor Judd is dead the song from Oklahoma tells of the down side of being kept unburied without ice...) At any rate, by the time she got home, people were probably moving at warp 9 to get her dressed in something appropriate. Cosimo her husband was very distraught, (he had just lost 2 sons and a daughter within a very short time before Eleonora died, so crazy with grief was probably a good way to describe it), but he wanted his wife to be properly dressed-- jewels included-- for her appointment with her Maker. If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about the velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from TB on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death. In the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended for the modern woman). The velvet bodice MIGHT have been something she wore as a substitute when breathing became difficult (my hypothesis). In the severe stages of TB there is terrible weight loss. If you look at some of the pics by Bronzino you can see how she gained weight over the course of her many (11) pregnancies, and then lost a lot of weight at the end. She was one sick lady. And putting the malaria on top of it, well, it is no surprise that the stuff in her wardrobe did not fit. The velvet bodice was probably more of a grave wrapping to keep her upper body set while the people were trying to get her gown laced. If you notice the gown is not laced through every hole-- they were working fast probably. And who would think that 500 years later what she wore in her grave would be the subject of such intense scrutiny? (The grave robbers who took her jewels flipped the body over, so that is why the back of the dress and velvet bodice are in such good shape. The body decays from the top down-- gravity and all that!) Eleonora's dress was probably lined in linen. Since linen is a natural fiber, it decomposes in the grave. It also protected the satin of the dress from the same fate, but if the body had been left to decompose long enough everything probably would have gone. The latest book on Eleonora, Moda di Firenze http://www.artbooks.com/wc.dll?ab~searchitemno~0~45409 gives a lot of details on the EoT gown and the restoration of both pieces. The skirt was cut so it would be worn without a forepart. Janet Arnold did the preliminary work on the gown, but died prior to this new book being released. Her theory was the gown probably had an embroidered smock and no sleeves. She also theorized that Eleonora probably wore a farthingale, because she was Spanish. The waistline of her gown was more rounded than the Elizabethan style of 1575, and had a different silhouette then the Eleonora gown from the Bronzino painting, which was 30 years earlier. Good luck with the gown! Best Regards- Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Natalie Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help Hello everyone, I am looking for some guidance on the Eleanor of Toledo gown. I have read over Janet Arnold's write up of this dress and the book describes not one, but two bodices based on remnants of the actual dress. The first bodice was of velvet, and fastens at the front with hooks and eyes, and lined with linen, but no matching skirt was found, although there are stitch-holes in the waist. The second bodice is of satin, with two seams at the back. It may have been lined, but the evidence is not clear, per Arnold. The book theorizes that the velvet bodice may have been a corset with bents, or a pair of bodies, set into the linen
Re: [h-cost] Eleanor of Toledo 1545 help
If you look at the text of Janet Arnold's book she says something about the velvet bodice overlapping in the front. Eleonora had been suffering from TB on and off, getting progressively worse , since 1549/ 50 until her death. In the early stages she wore a taffeta covered steel corset (not recommended for the modern woman). Again I'm curious about this. Is this mentioend in the new Moda di Firenze book as well? Would this have been for medicinal reasons? Faure did recommend splinting body parts with metal for certain diseases. A definite link between Eleanora's wasting disease (as it would probably have been called) and needing a metal corset would help in this area of research. I know not many like Norris, but I'm almost positive I've seen this in other places... I just can't find it at the moment. Anyway, in Tudor Costume and Fashion in the part about corsets, he has a drawing, copied from an existing iron corset from about 1530. He writes a whole paragraph on it, but basically says that these were somewhat common in England from 1533 to the 1580's, being made from iron and covered with soft leather, silk, or other materials.they were hinged on one side and fastened by hook and/or bolts. He says they were first made by Italians and Catherine de' Medici brought some in her trousseau when she came to France in 1533. So... take it with a grain of salt, it coming from Norris, but like I said, I am almost positive I've seen this elsewhere. I'm not sure if your question about the metal corset was about Eleanora specifically, or the corsets in general, but I hope that helps! Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cordwainers cobblers... what's what?
What era are we talking about? In the classic Brother's Grimm tale, The Elves and the Shoemaker, the shoemaker is also referred to as a cobbler. Dictionary.com defines a cobbler as one who makes shoes and boots. Dictionary.com also says cordwainer is an archaic word for a shoemaker. Natalie - Original Message - From: Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what? Just checked my dictionary for 'cordwainer'and got a second note that cordwainers also are/ can be specialists for certain parts of shoemaking.(Perhaps the party-leaving gent had some tweaking to do in the shop?) I am not sure, but I think that cobblers were more responsible for shoe repair and not necessarily shoe making. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: [h-cost] Corwainers cobblers... what's what? Corwainers cobblers... what's what? I was at 16th dance practice last night and one of the gents said he had to leave early to complete his cordwaining responsibilities. Since I know he's making a pair of chopines I puzzled whether this is the right word. Someone suggested cobbler. Another suggested chopine-ista, to which yet another said was a great name for the wearer of chopines. Another posited chopiñero (that's the spanish n with the tilda on top) as the maker of chopines. Corwainers cobblers chopiñeros... what's what? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mary Queen of Scots Costume Pix
Hello everyone, I'm new to the group! Suzi, I just wanted to tell you that I think these costumes are great! Natalie - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:23 AM Subject: [h-cost] Mary Queen of Scots Costume Pix Earlier in the year, you may remember I made some costumes for a group of dancers called Danse Ecosse http://www.apux03.dsl.pipex.com/ You can now see a photo, if you are interested, here. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006003.jpg and here. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/Sistersuzi/Various4thMarch2006008.jpg The lady on the right in the first picture is wearing a dress copied from a Titian painting of Isabella of Portugal, which I made about 20 years ago for a previous customer, which is why it needs re-fitting. And why the lady in the middle is not wearing a corset is a question I shall be asking the next time I see her - her dress looks great with the corset! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] busks with clasps
Does anyone know when the busks with clasps came into use? From the reading I have been doing, it seems as if the busk referred to in 16c costuming was a solid piece of wood or whalebone, rather then two seperate pieces that clasped together. Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume