[H] PC fan noise question
Hey guys, another quick question; hope you guys can steer me in the right direction. I've got an Dell Dimension XPS Gen3/4 circa 12/2004; it's a pretty beasty machine still (top-of-the-line back then) with its own monster tower case and dedicated power supply section on the bottom. I'm just trying to figure out why the following happens and what (if anything) I can do about it: If I do pretty much anything on the system lately (even open a browser), it spins the fans up to FULL speed and they're LOUD! I mean, really loud-I was just watching a DVD on there with Windows Media Center and they fans were going full bore and I had to really crank the volume to hear anything! I hadn't really thought about all the people talking about whisper-quiet PCs before and all that, but I guess I see how it can be an issue now! So while I know the system is old, I just upgraded the video card to a 4530 and it works great except for the loud fan thing.any thoughts on some way I can control that (like good software one can download for that), or a possible issue that I can look into fixing (if people have run into the same thing in the past themselves)? Any tips/pointers really appreciated; thanks guys! BINO
Re: [H] [Bulk] PC fan noise question
The latest Catalyst drivers have fan control so you can turn it down manually. Also, check your CPU temps as your heat sink might be clogged with dust causing the BIOS fan control to run full blast (that is if it's 4 pin mobo connection). SpeedFan is the best utility for fan control but only if the mobo and CPU fan allow it. Let us know what you find out. Good luck! Bino Gopal wrote: Hey guys, another quick question; hope you guys can steer me in the right direction. I've got an Dell Dimension XPS Gen3/4 circa 12/2004; it's a pretty beasty machine still (top-of-the-line back then) with its own monster tower case and dedicated power supply section on the bottom. I'm just trying to figure out why the following happens and what (if anything) I can do about it: If I do pretty much anything on the system lately (even open a browser), it spins the fans up to FULL speed and they're LOUD! I mean, really loud-I was just watching a DVD on there with Windows Media Center and they fans were going full bore and I had to really crank the volume to hear anything! I hadn't really thought about all the people talking about whisper-quiet PCs before and all that, but I guess I see how it can be an issue now! So while I know the system is old, I just upgraded the video card to a 4530 and it works great except for the loud fan thing.any thoughts on some way I can control that (like good software one can download for that), or a possible issue that I can look into fixing (if people have run into the same thing in the past themselves)? Any tips/pointers really appreciated; thanks guys! BINO
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
Scott/Rick, Good points both. I forgot to mention cable type because I figured that any network cable in play now would be CAT5E or maybe CAT6. I have never used a CAT5 cable. I bought most of my network cables 10 years ago and did spec CAT5E. I have yet to test any CAT6; but, if I ever do internally wire my house, I may spec CAT6 Best, Duncan At 00:20 04/06/2009 -0400, you wrote: Agreed -- If plain cat5, could be the problem. When I installed some gigabit switches at work (original CAT5 cable runs were done in early 90s) some computers / ports went to full gigabit speeds, some stayed at 100. Had to rerun some cables. My understanding is that auto-negotiation for port speeds is fairly reliable now... but you could always try forcing the computers to gigabit if the cables should be good. Scott On Apr 5, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Rick Glazier wrote: I think cat5 will run at 1G if the run is fairly short. (All other nics, etc, need to be 1G though...) Rick Glazier From: DHSinclair Steve, Understand your glitch with the new Gbit switch.. __ NOD32 3989 (20090406) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
[H] Looking for a voodoo3
Hey All, Looking for a voodoo 3 to put in an Amiga4000. Someone in this group might just have one. Any help? TIA, Al
Re: [H] PC fan noise question
How does anyone tolerate all that noise coming from a PC. End the PC noise! http://www.endpcnoise.com http://www.silentpcreview.com/ Get rid of the noise makers! A good case will let you swap out the other 80mm fans with 120 mm ones. Also, the various chipset fans can be loud. As can the CPU, VidCARD and powersupply fans. You can also try soundproofing. Make sure your PC is not at ear-level too. I had to get rid of my loud PCs. They were driving me nuts. My office PC sits on my desk right in front of my face yet I can't hear it (no gaming stuff in there). Home PC built from the ground up to be quiet. Good luck. Bino Gopal wrote: Hey guys, another quick question; hope you guys can steer me in the right direction. I've got an Dell Dimension XPS Gen3/4 circa 12/2004; it's a pretty beasty machine still (top-of-the-line back then) with its own monster tower case and dedicated power supply section on the bottom. I'm just trying to figure out why the following happens and what (if anything) I can do about it: If I do pretty much anything on the system lately (even open a browser), it spins the fans up to FULL speed and they're LOUD! I mean, really loud-I was just watching a DVD on there with Windows Media Center and they fans were going full bore and I had to really crank the volume to hear anything! I hadn't really thought about all the people talking about whisper-quiet PCs before and all that, but I guess I see how it can be an issue now! So while I know the system is old, I just upgraded the video card to a 4530 and it works great except for the loud fan thing.any thoughts on some way I can control that (like good software one can download for that), or a possible issue that I can look into fixing (if people have run into the same thing in the past themselves)? Any tips/pointers really appreciated; thanks guys! BINO
Re: [H] Looking for a voodoo3
Hello Al, Monday, April 6, 2009, 9:01:07 AM, you wrote: Hey All, Looking for a voodoo 3 to put in an Amiga4000. Someone in this group might just have one. Any help? TIA, Al I have a couple voodoo and a voodoo2 - no voodoo3 -- Regards, joeuser - Still looking for the 'any' key... ...now these points of data make a beautiful line...
Re: [H] Looking for a voodoo3
Joe User wrote: Hello Al, I have a couple voodoo and a voodoo2 - no voodoo3 Thanks. I believe my quest has been answered. Cheers, Al
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
Yes, 1GHz and it also might have to be an unbalanced 4/0db if signal is weak. Steve Tomporowski wrote: Splitting the Video: One thing I haven't asked about on the list. Wanted to split the cable line that goes to the modem so that I can watch TV on one of the boxes (hauppauge Analog/Digital Card). The splitter I tried to use resulted in no internet and an unhappy modem. I think I need a 1Ghz splitter. I doubt that one was.
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
Hmm, ok on that note, what's the 1 Ghz for the splitter refer to-or the 4/0db unbalanced thing? I've got TW Cable at home and have it split 4 ways (this is after it's split once to the bedroom and living room from the junction box at the back of the apt) but the cable techs have tested the signal strength and said it's actually still moderately high-even after the 4-way split-so I should be good... I've just got a simple 4-way splitter and if there's a better one I can get (or an amplifier or something else that can clean/improve the signal) I'd definitely consider it! I just upgraded my TivoHD to a 1GB HD and I'm getting occasional drops and I'm thinking it's the signal now (I thought it was the hard drive before, but it's still happening even after I replaced the hard drive, so now it's pointing to something else) so rather than have the techs come out again and say it's fine, I was wondering on what I could do myself. Anyone got any pointers on what to look for or where? BINO -Original Message- From: hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com [mailto:hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com] On Behalf Of maccrawj Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 7:45 AM To: hardware@hardwaregroup.com Subject: Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside Yes, 1GHz and it also might have to be an unbalanced 4/0db if signal is weak. Steve Tomporowski wrote: Splitting the Video: One thing I haven't asked about on the list. Wanted to split the cable line that goes to the modem so that I can watch TV on one of the boxes (hauppauge Analog/Digital Card). The splitter I tried to use resulted in no internet and an unhappy modem. I think I need a 1Ghz splitter. I doubt that one was.
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
-Original Message- From: Bino Gopal Hmm, ok on that note, what's the 1 Ghz for the splitter refer to-or the 4/0db unbalanced thing? I've got TW Cable at home and have it split 4 ways (this is after it's split once to the bedroom and living room from the junction box at the back of the apt) but the cable techs have tested the signal strength and said it's actually still moderately high-even after the 4-way split-so I should be good... I've just got a simple 4-way splitter and if there's a better one I can get (or an amplifier or something else that can clean/improve the signal) I'd definitely consider it! I just upgraded my TivoHD to a 1GB HD and I'm getting occasional drops and I'm thinking it's the signal now (I thought it was the hard drive before, but it's still happening even after I replaced the hard drive, so now it's pointing to something else) so rather than have the techs come out again and say it's fine, I was wondering on what I could do myself. Anyone got any pointers on what to look for or where? Bino, I was running 3 televisions, cable modem, Cable PVR, 5 computer TV tuners and was having signal strength problems. My modem was losing its signal and some of the higher television stations had terrible quality. I had tried a cheap wal-mart/Philips signal amplifier (that actually made the reception worse). After lots of Googling, I found some information on the following item: ELECTROLINE EDA-FT08100 8 PORT CABLE TV AMPLIFER. It solved all my problems. I split the line coming into the house for front room and office. The office line is split for modem and all other inputs. The other inputs goes into the EDA-FT08100 amplifier to run my HDTV, PVR, and computer tuners. Signal strength is good for the tuners and modem. I got what I thought was a good deal at http://www.mjsales.net/. No connection other than a satisfied customer. Hope this help. Jim Maki jwm_maill...@comcast.net
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
During lunch I picked up a couple of CAT6 cables and a 1GHZ splitter. So far, the splitter is working nicely, modem is happy. Next will be the CAT6 cables, and, yes, both computers have gigabit network on board. One cable run is the std 15ft but probably CAT5 or less (not marked) and the other is around 20ft with the same sort of unmarked cable and a coupler. Then we'll see what happens. The gigbit switch is a Linksys SD2005 from the 'business' line. Found some complaints about overheating and dying after a few months. It is running warm, but it has a metal case for dissipation. Probably not a good idea to put the router on top of it.;-) Steve maccrawj wrote: Yes, 1GHz and it also might have to be an unbalanced 4/0db if signal is weak. Steve Tomporowski wrote: Splitting the Video: One thing I haven't asked about on the list. Wanted to split the cable line that goes to the modem so that I can watch TV on one of the boxes (hauppauge Analog/Digital Card). The splitter I tried to use resulted in no internet and an unhappy modem. I think I need a 1Ghz splitter. I doubt that one was.
Re: [H] [Bulk] PC fan noise question
I guess you've already been inside the beast, so there is the possibility that you can replace the fan/heatsink on the CPU to something quieter and maybe cut down on the number of fans. My oldest system was really over-blown with fans (pun intended), so when it got too noisy, I just disconnected the offenders. The absolute worst I've ever seen was *I think* an old Dell where there was one, yes, one fan in the whole system that needed to cool everything. They hung it on the wimpy power supply and then ducted it to blow on the chipset and CPU. Steve Stan Zaske wrote: The latest Catalyst drivers have fan control so you can turn it down manually. Also, check your CPU temps as your heat sink might be clogged with dust causing the BIOS fan control to run full blast (that is if it's 4 pin mobo connection). SpeedFan is the best utility for fan control but only if the mobo and CPU fan allow it. Let us know what you find out. Good luck! Bino Gopal wrote: Hey guys, another quick question; hope you guys can steer me in the right direction. I've got an Dell Dimension XPS Gen3/4 circa 12/2004; it's a pretty beasty machine still (top-of-the-line back then) with its own monster tower case and dedicated power supply section on the bottom. I'm just trying to figure out why the following happens and what (if anything) I can do about it: If I do pretty much anything on the system lately (even open a browser), it spins the fans up to FULL speed and they're LOUD! I mean, really loud-I was just watching a DVD on there with Windows Media Center and they fans were going full bore and I had to really crank the volume to hear anything! I hadn't really thought about all the people talking about whisper-quiet PCs before and all that, but I guess I see how it can be an issue now! So while I know the system is old, I just upgraded the video card to a 4530 and it works great except for the loud fan thing.any thoughts on some way I can control that (like good software one can download for that), or a possible issue that I can look into fixing (if people have run into the same thing in the past themselves)? Any tips/pointers really appreciated; thanks guys! BINO
Re: [H] [Bulk] PC fan noise question
Steve, While this seems strange..(more below) At 16:00 04/06/2009 -0500, Steve wrote: snip The absolute worst I've ever seen was *I think* an old Dell where there was one, yes, one fan in the whole system that needed to cool everything. They hung it on the wimpy power supply and then ducted it to blow on the chipset and CPU. I had one of these at the last place I was employed. I used it for ~5years. It was a brick. It ran NT3.51, and it never crashed; or, overheated. I thought about buying this hulk when I got laid off! Never happened. I sometimes wonder where it runs today... :) (if only I could recall its' MAC!) That was one tough PC. But then, JMHO. Best, Duncan snip
[H] Opinions asked 4
I wish to change the IP series I use on my home LAN. Yes, I believe I know what this involves, but am willing to read alternate thoughts. For the past 2 yrs I have been using 192.168.x.x I with to go back to 10.x.x.x. I get way too much external FUTZ trying to get into 192.168.x.x. Perhaps I read my logs wrongly. Perhaps. To me, I would like to stop using the [private] series used by most all of the commercial equipment suppliers. Please. Rain on my parade! Thank you, Duncan
Re: [H] Opinions asked 4
It doesn't matter one bit. 192.x.x.x and 10.x.x.x are private only that they are non-routable address ranges. That means by design, any packet with a 10 or 192 header dropped on the internet will go nowhere. Which is why everyone can use them in their internal LAN without needing to reserve unique ranges. It also makes for great security, because in the event that some of your internal LAN traffic does get on the net nobody can do anything with it. So changing from 192 to 10 ranges is really only cosmetic. But if you are intent on doing it, it shouldn't be too hard. If you are using your router as a DHCP server, then you should be able to change this fairly simply. Somewhere in the router settings should be the ability to specifcy what address range the router gives out. Not all routers wil probably support this, but I think most will. If your router doesn't support it, or if you are using static IPs, then just go to each machine and give it a unique 10.x.x.x address. But make sure you get them all, otherwise anything left on the old 192 range won't be ablet to communicate. For more info, see this page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_address#IPv4_private_addresses Or check out the audio/transcript of Security Now! Epsiode 108: http://www.grc.com/sn/SN-108.htm --- Brian Weeden Technical Consultant Secure World Foundation http://www.secureworldfoundtion.org +1 (514) 466-2756 Canada +1 (202) 683-8534 US On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 7:28 PM, DHSinclair dsinc...@bellsouth.net wrote: I wish to change the IP series I use on my home LAN. Yes, I believe I know what this involves, but am willing to read alternate thoughts. For the past 2 yrs I have been using 192.168.x.x I with to go back to 10.x.x.x. I get way too much external FUTZ trying to get into 192.168.x.x. Perhaps I read my logs wrongly. Perhaps. To me, I would like to stop using the [private] series used by most all of the commercial equipment suppliers. Please. Rain on my parade! Thank you, Duncan
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
Actually that is the way I'd like to do it, with a distribution amp. My old one was probably 20 years old and just not up to digital cable. Anyways, mission accomplished on the network also. Plugged in CAT6 cables and both boxes are running at 1 gig. I like the fast transfer. Also, although I've heard that the SD2005 ran too hot, after I moved the router off the top, the switch is now cool to the touch. I doubt there will be a problem. As for the cat6 cable, I don't know what I was expecting, but it's merely a fatter cable with thicker conductors. This makes sense seeing as the signal would be running mostly on the outside of the conductor (skin depth). I suppose that the turns/foot of the twisted pair may be different. Steve James Maki wrote: -Original Message- From: Bino Gopal Hmm, ok on that note, what's the 1 Ghz for the splitter refer to-or the 4/0db unbalanced thing? I've got TW Cable at home and have it split 4 ways (this is after it's split once to the bedroom and living room from the junction box at the back of the apt) but the cable techs have tested the signal strength and said it's actually still moderately high-even after the 4-way split-so I should be good... I've just got a simple 4-way splitter and if there's a better one I can get (or an amplifier or something else that can clean/improve the signal) I'd definitely consider it! I just upgraded my TivoHD to a 1GB HD and I'm getting occasional drops and I'm thinking it's the signal now (I thought it was the hard drive before, but it's still happening even after I replaced the hard drive, so now it's pointing to something else) so rather than have the techs come out again and say it's fine, I was wondering on what I could do myself. Anyone got any pointers on what to look for or where? Bino, I was running 3 televisions, cable modem, Cable PVR, 5 computer TV tuners and was having signal strength problems. My modem was losing its signal and some of the higher television stations had terrible quality. I had tried a cheap wal-mart/Philips signal amplifier (that actually made the reception worse). After lots of Googling, I found some information on the following item: ELECTROLINE EDA-FT08100 8 PORT CABLE TV AMPLIFER. It solved all my problems. I split the line coming into the house for front room and office. The office line is split for modem and all other inputs. The other inputs goes into the EDA-FT08100 amplifier to run my HDTV, PVR, and computer tuners. Signal strength is good for the tuners and modem. I got what I thought was a good deal at http://www.mjsales.net/. No connection other than a satisfied customer. Hope this help. Jim Maki jwm_maill...@comcast.net
Re: [H] Opinions asked 4
Brian, Thank you for still being around. Yes, I understand everything you said. I will again visit your shares, print/save what ever I need and move forward. Slowly. I suppose that the reason I raised my ask initially was to find out why so many of our Collective have poo-poo's about using the 10.x.x.x series. I know that it is a huge (full) range. But, When I use it I always use a sub-net mask of 255.255.255.0. I am still grappling with the the sub-net part. My problem! Perhaps this is my own stupidity. Sorry List (what's left of it!) Apologize completely. There should be quiet from me in the next few days as my LAN shakes out. Thank you. Duncan At 19:52 04/06/2009 -0400, you wrote: It doesn't matter one bit. 192.x.x.x and 10.x.x.x are private only that they are non-routable address ranges. That means by design, any packet with a 10 or 192 header dropped on the internet will go nowhere. Which is why everyone can use them in their internal LAN without needing to reserve unique ranges. It also makes for great security, because in the event that some of your internal LAN traffic does get on the net nobody can do anything with it. So changing from 192 to 10 ranges is really only cosmetic. But if you are intent on doing it, it shouldn't be too hard. If you are using your router as a DHCP server, then you should be able to change this fairly simply. Somewhere in the router settings should be the ability to specifcy what address range the router gives out. Not all routers wil probably support this, but I think most will. If your router doesn't support it, or if you are using static IPs, then just go to each machine and give it a unique 10.x.x.x address. But make sure you get them all, otherwise anything left on the old 192 range won't be ablet to communicate. For more info, see this page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_address#IPv4_private_addresses Or check out the audio/transcript of Security Now! Epsiode 108: http://www.grc.com/sn/SN-108.htm --- Brian Weeden Technical Consultant Secure World Foundation http://www.secureworldfoundtion.org +1 (514) 466-2756 Canada +1 (202) 683-8534 US On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 7:28 PM, DHSinclair dsinc...@bellsouth.net wrote: I wish to change the IP series I use on my home LAN. Yes, I believe I know what this involves, but am willing to read alternate thoughts. For the past 2 yrs I have been using 192.168.x.x I with to go back to 10.x.x.x. I get way too much external FUTZ trying to get into 192.168.x.x. Perhaps I read my logs wrongly. Perhaps. To me, I would like to stop using the [private] series used by most all of the commercial equipment suppliers. Please. Rain on my parade! Thank you, Duncan __ NOD32 3990 (20090406) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
Steve, You are now on my 'CAT6 List' when I decide to update! Congrats! Glad you now see Gbit speeds. Or, whatever improvement. Yes, if the switch runs hot do not park anything on top of it. Mine live on shelves all by themselves. I dust them off about every 6 months! Other than that, they may as well be invisible! For me, cable will be next... Best, Duncan At 18:54 04/06/2009 -0500, you wrote: Actually that is the way I'd like to do it, with a distribution amp. My old one was probably 20 years old and just not up to digital cable. Anyways, mission accomplished on the network also. Plugged in CAT6 cables and both boxes are running at 1 gig. I like the fast transfer. Also, although I've heard that the SD2005 ran too hot, after I moved the router off the top, the switch is now cool to the touch. I doubt there will be a problem. As for the cat6 cable, I don't know what I was expecting, but it's merely a fatter cable with thicker conductors. This makes sense seeing as the signal would be running mostly on the outside of the conductor (skin depth). I suppose that the turns/foot of the twisted pair may be different. Steve James Maki wrote: -Original Message- From: Bino Gopal Hmm, ok on that note, what's the 1 Ghz for the splitter refer to-or the 4/0db unbalanced thing? I've got TW Cable at home and have it split 4 ways (this is after it's split once to the bedroom and living room from the junction box at the back of the apt) but the cable techs have tested the signal strength and said it's actually still moderately high-even after the 4-way split-so I should be good... I've just got a simple 4-way splitter and if there's a better one I can get (or an amplifier or something else that can clean/improve the signal) I'd definitely consider it! I just upgraded my TivoHD to a 1GB HD and I'm getting occasional drops and I'm thinking it's the signal now (I thought it was the hard drive before, but it's still happening even after I replaced the hard drive, so now it's pointing to something else) so rather than have the techs come out again and say it's fine, I was wondering on what I could do myself. Anyone got any pointers on what to look for or where? Bino, I was running 3 televisions, cable modem, Cable PVR, 5 computer TV tuners and was having signal strength problems. My modem was losing its signal and some of the higher television stations had terrible quality. I had tried a cheap wal-mart/Philips signal amplifier (that actually made the reception worse). After lots of Googling, I found some information on the following item: ELECTROLINE EDA-FT08100 8 PORT CABLE TV AMPLIFER. It solved all my problems. I split the line coming into the house for front room and office. The office line is split for modem and all other inputs. The other inputs goes into the EDA-FT08100 amplifier to run my HDTV, PVR, and computer tuners. Signal strength is good for the tuners and modem. I got what I thought was a good deal at http://www.mjsales.net/. No connection other than a satisfied customer. Hope this help. Jim Maki jwm_maill...@comcast.net __ NOD32 3990 (20090406) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] Project Falling by the wayside....
Duncan, Actually I had to get my incoming cable split...need TV...baseball season is starting! ;-) Steve DHSinclair wrote: Steve, You are now on my 'CAT6 List' when I decide to update! Congrats! Glad you now see Gbit speeds. Or, whatever improvement. Yes, if the switch runs hot do not park anything on top of it. Mine live on shelves all by themselves. I dust them off about every 6 months! Other than that, they may as well be invisible! For me, cable will be next... Best, Duncan At 18:54 04/06/2009 -0500, you wrote: Actually that is the way I'd like to do it, with a distribution amp. My old one was probably 20 years old and just not up to digital cable. Anyways, mission accomplished on the network also. Plugged in CAT6 cables and both boxes are running at 1 gig. I like the fast transfer. Also, although I've heard that the SD2005 ran too hot, after I moved the router off the top, the switch is now cool to the touch. I doubt there will be a problem. As for the cat6 cable, I don't know what I was expecting, but it's merely a fatter cable with thicker conductors. This makes sense seeing as the signal would be running mostly on the outside of the conductor (skin depth). I suppose that the turns/foot of the twisted pair may be different. Steve James Maki wrote: -Original Message- From: Bino Gopal Hmm, ok on that note, what's the 1 Ghz for the splitter refer to-or the 4/0db unbalanced thing? I've got TW Cable at home and have it split 4 ways (this is after it's split once to the bedroom and living room from the junction box at the back of the apt) but the cable techs have tested the signal strength and said it's actually still moderately high-even after the 4-way split-so I should be good... I've just got a simple 4-way splitter and if there's a better one I can get (or an amplifier or something else that can clean/improve the signal) I'd definitely consider it! I just upgraded my TivoHD to a 1GB HD and I'm getting occasional drops and I'm thinking it's the signal now (I thought it was the hard drive before, but it's still happening even after I replaced the hard drive, so now it's pointing to something else) so rather than have the techs come out again and say it's fine, I was wondering on what I could do myself. Anyone got any pointers on what to look for or where? Bino, I was running 3 televisions, cable modem, Cable PVR, 5 computer TV tuners and was having signal strength problems. My modem was losing its signal and some of the higher television stations had terrible quality. I had tried a cheap wal-mart/Philips signal amplifier (that actually made the reception worse). After lots of Googling, I found some information on the following item: ELECTROLINE EDA-FT08100 8 PORT CABLE TV AMPLIFER. It solved all my problems. I split the line coming into the house for front room and office. The office line is split for modem and all other inputs. The other inputs goes into the EDA-FT08100 amplifier to run my HDTV, PVR, and computer tuners. Signal strength is good for the tuners and modem. I got what I thought was a good deal at http://www.mjsales.net/. No connection other than a satisfied customer. Hope this help. Jim Maki jwm_maill...@comcast.net __ NOD32 3990 (20090406) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] Opinions asked 4
That Security Now episode I linked to has an entire transcript - might be worth just keyword searching for the relevant section, as it was only a few minutes worth of an hour-plus show answering many different questions. For many years it used to be that all the routers used 192 by default. I didn't see one use 10. until I bought an Apple router a few years ago. The subnet mask allows you to specify how much of the range is available for your computer. So if you don't expect to need more than 255 unique addresses on your LAN, you tell your computers to use 255.255.255.0 for the subnet mask, meaning that they should keep the first 3 octets fixed and only vary the last one. So applying that subnet mask to 192.168.0.x, that means you will get addresses from 192.168.0.1 all the way to 192.168.0.255. This has the effect of speeding up network traffic. If you were running a much bigger LAN and needed thousands of IP addresses, then you would probbaly use a subnet like 255.255.0.0 which means the network will have 256 x 256 = 65,536 unique addresses. More info: http://compnetworking.about.com/od/workingwithipaddresses/a/subnetmask.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subnetwork --- Brian Weeden Technical Consultant Secure World Foundation http://www.secureworldfoundtion.org +1 (514) 466-2756 Canada +1 (202) 683-8534 US On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 8:13 PM, DHSinclair dsinc...@bellsouth.net wrote: Brian, Thank you for still being around. Yes, I understand everything you said. I will again visit your shares, print/save what ever I need and move forward. Slowly. I suppose that the reason I raised my ask initially was to find out why so many of our Collective have poo-poo's about using the 10.x.x.x series. I know that it is a huge (full) range. But, When I use it I always use a sub-net mask of 255.255.255.0. I am still grappling with the the sub-net part. My problem! Perhaps this is my own stupidity. Sorry List (what's left of it!) Apologize completely. There should be quiet from me in the next few days as my LAN shakes out. Thank you. Duncan At 19:52 04/06/2009 -0400, you wrote: It doesn't matter one bit. 192.x.x.x and 10.x.x.x are private only that they are non-routable address ranges. That means by design, any packet with a 10 or 192 header dropped on the internet will go nowhere. Which is why everyone can use them in their internal LAN without needing to reserve unique ranges. It also makes for great security, because in the event that some of your internal LAN traffic does get on the net nobody can do anything with it. So changing from 192 to 10 ranges is really only cosmetic. But if you are intent on doing it, it shouldn't be too hard. If you are using your router as a DHCP server, then you should be able to change this fairly simply. Somewhere in the router settings should be the ability to specifcy what address range the router gives out. Not all routers wil probably support this, but I think most will. If your router doesn't support it, or if you are using static IPs, then just go to each machine and give it a unique 10.x.x.x address. But make sure you get them all, otherwise anything left on the old 192 range won't be ablet to communicate. For more info, see this page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_address#IPv4_private_addresses Or check out the audio/transcript of Security Now! Epsiode 108: http://www.grc.com/sn/SN-108.htm --- Brian Weeden Technical Consultant Secure World Foundation http://www.secureworldfoundtion.org +1 (514) 466-2756 Canada +1 (202) 683-8534 US On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 7:28 PM, DHSinclair dsinc...@bellsouth.net wrote: I wish to change the IP series I use on my home LAN. Yes, I believe I know what this involves, but am willing to read alternate thoughts. For the past 2 yrs I have been using 192.168.x.x I with to go back to 10.x.x.x. I get way too much external FUTZ trying to get into 192.168.x.x. Perhaps I read my logs wrongly. Perhaps. To me, I would like to stop using the [private] series used by most all of the commercial equipment suppliers. Please. Rain on my parade! Thank you, Duncan __ NOD32 3990 (20090406) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] Home phone sync contacts with Outlook?
Well if no one knows of any that sync Contacts with Outlook, any recommendations on good home phones based on the ones you guys have/have used/read about? Pansonic seems to be the best from reading Amazon and other sites, I'm just confused about which model to get unless someone has heard differently... Thanks! BINO -Original Message- From: hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com [mailto:hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com] On Behalf Of Bino Gopal Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 10:19 PM To: hardware@hardwaregroup.com Subject: [H] Home phone sync contacts with Outlook? Anyone know of ANY home phones that will sync its Contacts with your Outlook Contacts? So when I say home phone (for all those who've forgotten what they are), all I need it to do is have the capability to plug into a regular telephone line-It can be a hybrid of home/cell/VoIP/whatever, but I just want one that can read my Outlook Contacts (and sync them to the phone) so I know who's calling if they don't have Caller ID and I don't have to lookup numbers to dial them every time. :P So my old 5.8Ghz Uniden home phone (TRU-5885-2) is dying (and the charger for the extra handset is dead too) and the batteries are running down and I need a replacement-I was just going to get a Panasonic 6.0 DECT phone like this one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Expandable-Digital-Cordless-Answering/dp/B00 138BEV2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top but I realized that if I was going to get a new phone, it'd be nice to get one that would sync my Contacts.how come cell phones have been doing this for years, but home phones don't seem to have this capability?! I don't think there's anything available as Googling revealed nothing of interest, but figured I'd check with the collective here first to see if maybe someone else has looked into this, or knows about some product I don't. Thanks! BINO
