Re: [H] OSX on PC Hardware
a Mac Pro is an 8-core/16 thread Xeon rig with 6 channels of DDR3, so yeah, it takes a hell of a lot to outrun one when it's in its comfort zone. however a fast i7 box will keep up with or outrun the "cheaper" quad core Mac Pro implementation... whilst likely being cheaper. On 2 Jul 2009, at 05:26, Mesdaq, Ali wrote: Ok I am jealous! So even with that configuration you still feel that a mac pro can beat it performance wise? I am wondering if there is a cutoff where the PC hardware beats the mac for performance and is still cheaper to the point where it's worth the extra hassle to setup a pc mac instead of buying a real mac. Thanks, -- Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) Sr. Security Researcher Websense Security Labs http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com -- -Original Message- From: hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com [mailto:hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com ] On Behalf Of James Boswell Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 11:26 AM To: hardware@hardwaregroup.com Subject: Re: [H] OSX on PC Hardware I'm running OSX 10.5.7 on :- Asus P5K-E/Wifi-AP Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 @ 3.78Ghz 8GB (4x2GB) OCZ DDR2-800 @ 891Mhz HIS Radeon 4890 1GB 2x 500GB WD HDD's (1x scratch, 1x Time Machine) 1x 500GB Seagate HDD (presently OSX boot drive) 1x 750GB Samsung HDD (Vista) Lg Super Multi-Blu + Samsung DVDRW It's a BOOT-132/Chameleon install, so the OSX install itself is "native" and the hacks are all applied by the bootloader (so software update works flawlessly, even the 10.5.6 > 10.5.7 update) It hauls ass, feels as quick as any real Mac, until you hit it with something that can really make a Mac Pro stretch its legs (as I've only got 4 cores), even then the 4890 pulls its weight for things like Aperture and Final Cut filters. I've also put OSX on an i7 rig for a friend, and that thing... is simply WOW, I suspect there are very few moments where it won't blow the sidepanel off a full blooded nehelem Mac Pro Might be something to do with this though... https://photos-4.getdropbox.com/i/l/1F7CeoKfpTt7PlM9OlXEk0ZuR-YotULw4_mL1l2ZC3w #12 - Partial assembled rig - https://photos-1.getdropbox.com/i/l/lUURdDq1OyRc2zlmtboM6ia1luoMhmEdUZXKelcTzCk #5 That Gigabyte GA-X58-UD5 is a REALLY REALLY good board for hackintoshing, there's even a script that'll completely set up the OS boot-132 style on the thing. On 1 Jul 2009, at 18:36, Mesdaq, Ali wrote: Anyone on the list done anything with running OSX on off the shelf PC Hardware? http://wiki.osx86project.org/ If so what's performance like? Is it worth it to try to build a badass OSX box or is it just worth it to buy a Mac? Looking to do some audio work. Thanks, -- Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) Sr. Security Researcher Websense Security Labs http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com -- Protected by Websense Hosted Email Security -- www.websense.com
Re: [H] OSX on PC Hardware
Ok I am jealous! So even with that configuration you still feel that a mac pro can beat it performance wise? I am wondering if there is a cutoff where the PC hardware beats the mac for performance and is still cheaper to the point where it's worth the extra hassle to setup a pc mac instead of buying a real mac. Thanks, -- Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) Sr. Security Researcher Websense Security Labs http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com -- -Original Message- From: hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com [mailto:hardware-boun...@hardwaregroup.com] On Behalf Of James Boswell Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 11:26 AM To: hardware@hardwaregroup.com Subject: Re: [H] OSX on PC Hardware I'm running OSX 10.5.7 on :- Asus P5K-E/Wifi-AP Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 @ 3.78Ghz 8GB (4x2GB) OCZ DDR2-800 @ 891Mhz HIS Radeon 4890 1GB 2x 500GB WD HDD's (1x scratch, 1x Time Machine) 1x 500GB Seagate HDD (presently OSX boot drive) 1x 750GB Samsung HDD (Vista) Lg Super Multi-Blu + Samsung DVDRW It's a BOOT-132/Chameleon install, so the OSX install itself is "native" and the hacks are all applied by the bootloader (so software update works flawlessly, even the 10.5.6 > 10.5.7 update) It hauls ass, feels as quick as any real Mac, until you hit it with something that can really make a Mac Pro stretch its legs (as I've only got 4 cores), even then the 4890 pulls its weight for things like Aperture and Final Cut filters. I've also put OSX on an i7 rig for a friend, and that thing... is simply WOW, I suspect there are very few moments where it won't blow the sidepanel off a full blooded nehelem Mac Pro Might be something to do with this though... https://photos-4.getdropbox.com/i/l/1F7CeoKfpTt7PlM9OlXEk0ZuR-YotULw4_mL1l2ZC3w #12 - Partial assembled rig - https://photos-1.getdropbox.com/i/l/lUURdDq1OyRc2zlmtboM6ia1luoMhmEdUZXKelcTzCk #5 That Gigabyte GA-X58-UD5 is a REALLY REALLY good board for hackintoshing, there's even a script that'll completely set up the OS boot-132 style on the thing. On 1 Jul 2009, at 18:36, Mesdaq, Ali wrote: > Anyone on the list done anything with running OSX on off the shelf > PC Hardware? > http://wiki.osx86project.org/ > If so what's performance like? Is it worth it to try to build a > badass OSX box or is it just worth it to buy a Mac? Looking to do > some audio work. > > Thanks, > -- > Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) > Sr. Security Researcher > Websense Security Labs > http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com > -- > > > > > Protected by Websense Hosted Email Security -- www.websense.com
Re: [H] [Bulk] Re: [Bulk] Re: HD going bad?
I see, different app. My bad. Thane Sherrington wrote: At 08:26 PM 30/06/2009, Stan Zaske wrote: I use Smartmon as well but they haven't supported their product in years. I bought a new hardrive several years ago which crashed Smartmon whenever I went into the show device details button. The tech worked with me for days coding a new version until it worked and I was quite pleased. However, last fall when I installed my new Seagate 7200.12 and the same problem cropped up they answered my first email promptly and encouragingly only to ignore me from that point forth. Guess they don't have time for non-corporate customers in these financially trying times. Smartmontools is updated every few months. T
Re: [H] Looking for UPS Advice.....
Steve, I have 7 APC UPS's and one Belkin UPS. I have never had a serious problem with my newer APC devices, but did go thru the eye with the 4 old devices (circa 1997) that used the old proprietary APC rs-232x interface. Never did get them to communicate well. These old units are now in their 3d replacement battery cycle. They run 24/7. All newer APC devices use USB which works very well. And the APC SW has gotten a bit better also. These newer units run 24/7. The Belkin device was a gift (circa 2001), and, it lost its' internal battery in late 2007 (limited use). Please know that the model #'s for UPS's are just often model #'s. Por Ehemplo: Old APC Back-Ups Pro BP1100 is really 670W usable Back-Ups XS BR1500(RS) is really 865W usable Back-Ups XS BX1500LCD(XS) is really 865W usable Old Belkin F6C-350USB is really 277W usable I just do not have a useful formula to share anymore because our psus have changed so much over the years. I have tested all my machines with one of my new BX1500LCD(XS) psus. It has a nice little LCD window that displays things like internal battery charge, service line voltage, ups line voltage, present wattage demand, calculated run time if/when service main goes out. It is very helpful. Oddly, I notice that my older 300W psus draw 140-160W at power up depending on how many add-in cards are present. My newer EPS12 610W psus draw 60-80W at power up depending on the same thing. Since I suspect this indicates better efficiency at the psu, I just do not know how to suggest the proper UPS to you. But, basically I would add up all the "implied" wattage loads you intend to connect to the psu. Like the PC, Display, net stuff, whatever. Multiply whatever value you get by 2x. Then, go shop for a UPS that is closest to your computed value BUT on the HIGH Side; like one model bigger if necessary. Please use actual output wattage of the UPS for this. If you choose to step up this calculation to 2.5x or 3x, then what you really just buy is extra minutes of "on-battery" run-time to provede more time to properly power down your stuff; like not be in a rush! Trust me, trying to read a kbd via candle light at 0330hrs can be tough. Other than trying to figure out proper size of the UPS, you need to be sure to get features like Line Voltage Regulation (AVR?), Sagging Voltage Boost, High Voltage Trim, and, quick action to avoid voltage spikes hitting your psu(s) when the power goes out. And, yes, as Christopher mentioned, pay attention to how long your units might operate on the batteries. Ideally, you should plan to be able to power OFF all your UPS's loads before the battery is 60% depleted. Still doing this research, but when UPS batteries get depleted below ~50% too many times (and I have done this several times in the past 5 years!) they just go sour really quick and fail completely after ~2 years! If you have a ready source of "cheap" replacement batteries, you are good to go. OTOH, retail and other high quality UPS batteries can be pricey!! BTW, I now use Yuasa replacments. APC is just way too proud of their decals!!! LOL! Hope this helps, Duncan Steve Tomporowski wrote: Today went down and looked at what Best Buy has for UPS's and a have a couple of questions. First, is it a good idea to buy a larger UPS and put two computers on it? The rationale is that one computer is on 24/7, but the other is on only when I'm working at it. So, the 24/7 computer can have the UPS shut it down, while I'll shut down the other by hand. Or would it be better to run each one off a smaller UPS? I am assuming here that any UPS I get will have a USB connector to shut the computer down. Doesn't seem logical otherwise. Second, what is the right size/power? For getting things shut down, 10 minutes is enough, I really don't imagine sitting playing Far Cry 2 for two hours, waiting for the power to come on. ThanksSteve __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4193 (20090626) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] Looking for UPS Advice.....
Hello Steve, Wednesday, July 1, 2009, 2:54:33 PM, you wrote: > Perfect answer 'Joe' ;-). I was looking for someone with real-life > experience and except for the number of computers, you are doing what > I'd thought I could do and now know that it works. (wait a minute, what > did he say?). > I was looking at an APC was was somewhere around 890 watts, which I was > sure would be able to run both computers for long enough to have one > manually shut down and the other automatically. > Each computer has a different power supply, which may have been key in > why one lost a hard drive. It had an off-the-BB-shelf Antec supply. > The other has a Black Widow. > Anyways, a UPC should reduce any potential problems. > Anybody ever hear of how the 'Geek Squad' brand of UPC works or who > makes them. Not much of a bargain in price and I don't really look at > products named after 'six-week' wonders. Thanks, I cannot speak to that brand but I can tell you this. I probably won't buy APC for myself again. When these units fail, I am getting Tripplite products to replace. -- Regards, joeuser - Still looking for the 'any' key... "...now these points of data make a beautiful line..."
Re: [H] [Bulk] Re: HD going bad?
At 08:26 PM 30/06/2009, Stan Zaske wrote: I use Smartmon as well but they haven't supported their product in years. I bought a new hardrive several years ago which crashed Smartmon whenever I went into the show device details button. The tech worked with me for days coding a new version until it worked and I was quite pleased. However, last fall when I installed my new Seagate 7200.12 and the same problem cropped up they answered my first email promptly and encouragingly only to ignore me from that point forth. Guess they don't have time for non-corporate customers in these financially trying times. Smartmontools is updated every few months. T
Re: [H] Looking for UPS Advice.....
Perfect answer 'Joe' ;-). I was looking for someone with real-life experience and except for the number of computers, you are doing what I'd thought I could do and now know that it works. (wait a minute, what did he say?). I was looking at an APC was was somewhere around 890 watts, which I was sure would be able to run both computers for long enough to have one manually shut down and the other automatically. Each computer has a different power supply, which may have been key in why one lost a hard drive. It had an off-the-BB-shelf Antec supply. The other has a Black Widow. Anyways, a UPC should reduce any potential problems. Anybody ever hear of how the 'Geek Squad' brand of UPC works or who makes them. Not much of a bargain in price and I don't really look at products named after 'six-week' wonders. Steve Joe User wrote: Hello Steve, Wednesday, July 1, 2009, 10:56:28 AM, you wrote: Today went down and looked at what Best Buy has for UPS's and a have a couple of questions. First, is it a good idea to buy a larger UPS and put two computers on it? The rationale is that one computer is on 24/7, but the other is on only when I'm working at it. So, the 24/7 computer can have the UPS shut it down, while I'll shut down the other by hand. Or would it be better to run each one off a smaller UPS? I am assuming here that any UPS I get will have a USB connector to shut the computer down. Doesn't seem logical otherwise. Second, what is the right size/power? For getting things shut down, 10 minutes is enough, I really don't imagine sitting playing Far Cry 2 for two hours, waiting for the power to come on. ThanksSteve This is up to you - it's an opinion thing. Nothing here you mentioned is mission critical. So I would just get something that fits your budget. I have a 650 and a 1100 for 5 systems, a laptop, and two monitors (1 is a 24 in CRT). When he power goes out, there is really nothing to do but shutdown. So i just press the power button on each of the systems - one right after the other. I also have two 'game' systems that have their own 650's 19 and 24 in LCD's and the systems. This gives me time to say "hey guys I just lost power" (yes, i use these to keep my switches/routers up) and shut down. However, if you want advice: 650 area would work and 1100 area would be overkill. Just one unless you want them both to have automated shutdown. If that's the case then you want separate and just go lower end. __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4193 (20090626) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] OSX on PC Hardware
Asus mobo here C2 Duo @ 3Ghz 4G ram EVGA NV GTX 8800 150G 10K Raptor Runs like a CHAMP. On Wed, Jul 01, 2009 at 07:26:23PM +0100, James Boswell wrote: > I'm running OSX 10.5.7 on :- > > Asus P5K-E/Wifi-AP > Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 @ 3.78Ghz > 8GB (4x2GB) OCZ DDR2-800 @ 891Mhz > HIS Radeon 4890 1GB > 2x 500GB WD HDD's (1x scratch, 1x Time Machine) > 1x 500GB Seagate HDD (presently OSX boot drive) > 1x 750GB Samsung HDD (Vista) > Lg Super Multi-Blu + Samsung DVDRW > > It's a BOOT-132/Chameleon install, so the OSX install itself is > "native" and the hacks are all applied by the bootloader (so software > update works flawlessly, even the 10.5.6 > 10.5.7 update) > > > It hauls ass, feels as quick as any real Mac, until you hit it with > something that can really make a Mac Pro stretch its legs (as I've > only got 4 cores), even then the 4890 pulls its weight for things like > Aperture and Final Cut filters. > > > I've also put OSX on an i7 rig for a friend, and that thing... is > simply WOW, I suspect there are very few moments where it won't blow > the sidepanel off a full blooded nehelem Mac Pro > > Might be something to do with this though... > https://photos-4.getdropbox.com/i/l/1F7CeoKfpTt7PlM9OlXEk0ZuR-YotULw4_mL1l2ZC3w > > #12 > > - Partial assembled rig - > https://photos-1.getdropbox.com/i/l/lUURdDq1OyRc2zlmtboM6ia1luoMhmEdUZXKelcTzCk > > #5 > > That Gigabyte GA-X58-UD5 is a REALLY REALLY good board for > hackintoshing, there's even a script that'll completely set up the OS > boot-132 style on the thing. > > > On 1 Jul 2009, at 18:36, Mesdaq, Ali wrote: > > > Anyone on the list done anything with running OSX on off the shelf > > PC Hardware? > > http://wiki.osx86project.org/ > > If so what's performance like? Is it worth it to try to build a > > badass OSX box or is it just worth it to buy a Mac? Looking to do > > some audio work. > > > > Thanks, > > -- > > Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) > > Sr. Security Researcher > > Websense Security Labs > > http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com > > -- > > > > > > > > > > Protected by Websense Hosted Email Security -- www.websense.com -- Bryan G. Seitz
[H] Annoying Adobe pdf printer error
For the last few weeks, anytime I try and print a webpage from Firefox to the pdf printer, it fails and gives me the following error in a notepad pop-up window: %%[ ProductName: Distiller ]%% Cambria not found, using Courier. %%[ Error: invalidfont; OffendingCommand: xshow ]%% Stack: [92 91 92 75 92 141 84 66 100 84 91 92 67 58 75 33 92 67 83 33 59 33 83 84 41 50 59 91 67 92 91 84 41 42 83 92 33 142 92 125 83 67 75 33 58 34 83 92 66 92 33 100 84 75 83 75 42 83 67 33 92 91 92 92 0] ( ) %%[ Flushing: rest of job (to end-of-file) will be ignored ]%% %%[ Warning: PostScript error. No PDF file produced. ] %% Works just fine from Adobe, any office product, or IE. I think the problem stems from my setting my font preferences in FF to Cambria. Not sure how to fix this. Thoughts? --- Brian
Re: [H] OSX on PC Hardware
I'm running OSX 10.5.7 on :- Asus P5K-E/Wifi-AP Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 @ 3.78Ghz 8GB (4x2GB) OCZ DDR2-800 @ 891Mhz HIS Radeon 4890 1GB 2x 500GB WD HDD's (1x scratch, 1x Time Machine) 1x 500GB Seagate HDD (presently OSX boot drive) 1x 750GB Samsung HDD (Vista) Lg Super Multi-Blu + Samsung DVDRW It's a BOOT-132/Chameleon install, so the OSX install itself is "native" and the hacks are all applied by the bootloader (so software update works flawlessly, even the 10.5.6 > 10.5.7 update) It hauls ass, feels as quick as any real Mac, until you hit it with something that can really make a Mac Pro stretch its legs (as I've only got 4 cores), even then the 4890 pulls its weight for things like Aperture and Final Cut filters. I've also put OSX on an i7 rig for a friend, and that thing... is simply WOW, I suspect there are very few moments where it won't blow the sidepanel off a full blooded nehelem Mac Pro Might be something to do with this though... https://photos-4.getdropbox.com/i/l/1F7CeoKfpTt7PlM9OlXEk0ZuR-YotULw4_mL1l2ZC3w #12 - Partial assembled rig - https://photos-1.getdropbox.com/i/l/lUURdDq1OyRc2zlmtboM6ia1luoMhmEdUZXKelcTzCk #5 That Gigabyte GA-X58-UD5 is a REALLY REALLY good board for hackintoshing, there's even a script that'll completely set up the OS boot-132 style on the thing. On 1 Jul 2009, at 18:36, Mesdaq, Ali wrote: Anyone on the list done anything with running OSX on off the shelf PC Hardware? http://wiki.osx86project.org/ If so what's performance like? Is it worth it to try to build a badass OSX box or is it just worth it to buy a Mac? Looking to do some audio work. Thanks, -- Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) Sr. Security Researcher Websense Security Labs http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com -- Protected by Websense Hosted Email Security -- www.websense.com
[H] OSX on PC Hardware
Anyone on the list done anything with running OSX on off the shelf PC Hardware? http://wiki.osx86project.org/ If so what's performance like? Is it worth it to try to build a badass OSX box or is it just worth it to buy a Mac? Looking to do some audio work. Thanks, -- Ali Mesdaq (CISSP, GIAC-GREM) Sr. Security Researcher Websense Security Labs http://www.WebsenseSecurityLabs.com -- Protected by Websense Hosted Email Security -- www.websense.com
Re: [H] Looking for UPS Advice.....
Hello Steve, Wednesday, July 1, 2009, 10:56:28 AM, you wrote: > Today went down and looked at what Best Buy has for UPS's and a have a > couple of questions. > First, is it a good idea to buy a larger UPS and put two computers on > it? The rationale is that one computer is on 24/7, but the other is on > only when I'm working at it. So, the 24/7 computer can have the UPS > shut it down, while I'll shut down the other by hand. Or would it be > better to run each one off a smaller UPS? I am assuming here that any > UPS I get will have a USB connector to shut the computer down. Doesn't > seem logical otherwise. > Second, what is the right size/power? For getting things shut down, 10 > minutes is enough, I really don't imagine sitting playing Far Cry 2 for > two hours, waiting for the power to come on. > ThanksSteve This is up to you - it's an opinion thing. Nothing here you mentioned is mission critical. So I would just get something that fits your budget. I have a 650 and a 1100 for 5 systems, a laptop, and two monitors (1 is a 24 in CRT). When he power goes out, there is really nothing to do but shutdown. So i just press the power button on each of the systems - one right after the other. I also have two 'game' systems that have their own 650's 19 and 24 in LCD's and the systems. This gives me time to say "hey guys I just lost power" (yes, i use these to keep my switches/routers up) and shut down. However, if you want advice: 650 area would work and 1100 area would be overkill. Just one unless you want them both to have automated shutdown. If that's the case then you want separate and just go lower end. -- Regards, joeuser - Still looking for the 'any' key... "...now these points of data make a beautiful line..."
Re: [H] Looking for UPS Advice.....
One of the things I noticed right away when I moved back to the east coast (Montreal) after spending almost a decade out west (Montana, Colorado, California) is just how bad trees are for stable power. We've lost power at least a half dozen times due to trees, sometimes for a few days at a stretch. So having a couple UPS's around is really a must. I have one UPS in the house right now and it's located in the A/V rack of the home theater. The logic behind this is that I can put not only the HTPC on it but also the cable modem and router. That way when the power is out the HTPC will safely shut down and the internet will still work for a long time. It's an older model APC I got used. Works fine, only really annoying bit is that it beeps once every few seconds for as long as the power is out, which after a day or so gets really annoying. For sizing, I would take the machines you have attached and figure out how much current they draw on average. You should then be able to do a rough calculation of how much usage you can get out of a certain amp-hour rating. But really, most home UPS's should only be lasting just long enough to save your work and shut down safely. I will be getting another for my main PC which is in another room, primarily just to make sure I can save my work and it can shutdown safely. But with running Windows on all my machines I've never really had a problem where a sudden loss of power caused something to get really screwed up. Brian On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 11:56 AM, Steve Tomporowski wrote: > Today went down and looked at what Best Buy has for UPS's and a have a > couple of questions. > > First, is it a good idea to buy a larger UPS and put two computers on it? > The rationale is that one computer is on 24/7, but the other is on only > when I'm working at it. So, the 24/7 computer can have the UPS shut it > down, while I'll shut down the other by hand. Or would it be better to run > each one off a smaller UPS? I am assuming here that any UPS I get will have > a USB connector to shut the computer down. Doesn't seem logical otherwise. > > Second, what is the right size/power? For getting things shut down, 10 > minutes is enough, I really don't imagine sitting playing Far Cry 2 for two > hours, waiting for the power to come on. > > ThanksSteve > > > __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 4193 (20090626) __ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > >
[H] Looking for UPS Advice.....
Today went down and looked at what Best Buy has for UPS's and a have a couple of questions. First, is it a good idea to buy a larger UPS and put two computers on it? The rationale is that one computer is on 24/7, but the other is on only when I'm working at it. So, the 24/7 computer can have the UPS shut it down, while I'll shut down the other by hand. Or would it be better to run each one off a smaller UPS? I am assuming here that any UPS I get will have a USB connector to shut the computer down. Doesn't seem logical otherwise. Second, what is the right size/power? For getting things shut down, 10 minutes is enough, I really don't imagine sitting playing Far Cry 2 for two hours, waiting for the power to come on. ThanksSteve __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4193 (20090626) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [H] Sometimes they're just out to get you
Chris, That makes a lot of sense now that I think back. In SoCal, I only recall 1 external event which caused battery intervention (other than the internal test every 2 weeks of use). However, here in NW Georgia, all my UPS's have seen numerous external events since 2004 that required battery intervention. Several of these were very early morning (nap-time) that did almost fully deplete the batteries. So far, no lost equipment! So, I'll be happy with a 3yr replacement cycle for now; but, I will switch to Yuasa batteries! Best, Duncan Christopher Fisk wrote: On Tue, 30 Jun 2009, Christofer Fisk wrote: It depends on usage. If you never have a power failure the batteries will last a lot longer than if you use them a lot. What you should try to do is to make sure they never never NEVER go under about a 60% charge. Get a battery under 60% and they never really recover. Christopher Fisk
Re: [H] Sometimes they're just out to get you
On Tue, 30 Jun 2009, DSinc wrote: From my read of the APC forums, UPS batteries (in APC UPS's) seem to have a "Life" of about 3-5 years. 3 years seems to be about average. Odd to me that I got damn near 9 years out of my first set of APC batteries. [I do so want a set of 1997 batteries!] But, there was a whole lot of stuff that took place during that time period. I got really lucky! It depends on usage. If you never have a power failure the batteries will last a lot longer than if you use them a lot. What you should try to do is to make sure they never never NEVER go under about a 60% charge. Get a battery under 60% and they never really recover. Christopher Fisk -- BOFH Excuse #262: Our POP server was kidnapped by a weasel. -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean.
