KR> Hexcel Adhesive.
Hi David The glue will do! To set you mid at peace, built several test pieces and test to destruction (this is what I did when splicing my spar after a crash). 1. Build with glue only 2. Glue and nails 3. Glue and a fibreglass strip 4. Glue, nails and a fibreglass strip In each case the wood was the week link, not one joint let go. Adding nails and glass just adds weight, wastes time, could cause stress points elsewhere in the frame and cause problems down the road. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@tabcomsys.com http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/index.html -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of David wade I presumed that there was a double safety in the construction of bonding the skin to the frame with Just Glue. I would imagine as a second safety precaution, you would add a aircraft nail 3/8" every 2 inches along the outside through the skin into each frame member and along the bottom edges reinforce with Fiberglass strips.
KR> Ivoprop
Hi Phil Nothing good to say about ivoprops and I would not put one on my aircraft. All my experience is third hand but if enough mud is thrown some will stick. (delaminating blades, out of balance vibrations) I would put an Airmaster Prop on having heard no bad reports. http://www.airmasterpropellers.com Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@tabcomsys.com http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/index.html -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Phillip Matheson Sent: Friday, 2 November 2012 11:41 AM Has anyone used or using an Ivoprop inflight adjustable prop.
KR> Laminating spars
Hi Tony >From what little I know. The laminations should run at 90 degrees to the sheer force. Therefore the laminations should be horizontal on a spar. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/index.html -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Tony King Sent: Friday, 25 May 2012 1:06 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Laminating spars I'm about to start laminating the timber to form my centre section spars from pieces that are 19mm (3/4") thick. Is the orientation of the laminations significant? I'm not sure why but all the laminated timber beams I've seen have the lamination layer horizontal. I can do this but in this case I'd waste less wood if the laminations were vertical. Does it matter? Cheers, Tony King ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Flaps vs. Belly Board
Hi Dave Here is my 2 cents worth, a few extracts from my WEB page. My belly board does increase my rate of decent (a lot) and does improve vision over the nose (both are easily achieved by side slipping). You could not pay me to do it again nor would I add it during building (what a waste of time, money and worst of all, weight). I would consider manually operated flaps and especially flaperons. See http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/KR2BellyBoard/index.html for details on my build and more comments. Regards Barry Kruyssen http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/index.html
KR> Flaps vs. Belly Board
Hi Dave Here is my 2 cents worth, a few extracts from my WEB page. My belly board does increase my rate of decent (a lot) and does improve vision over the nose (both are easily achieved by side slipping). You could not pay me to do it again nor would I add it during building (what a waste of time, money and worst of all, weight). I would consider manually operated flaps and especially flaperons. See http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/KR2BellyBoard/index.html for details on my build and more comments. Regards Barry Kruyssen http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/index.html
KR> Thrust line offsets ....
Hi Martin I get enormous yaw variations with different throttle settings with a Jabiru 2200 engine in an otherwise stock KR2. Regards Barry Kruyssen http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/index.html 19-3873 -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Martin Pearce Sent: Tuesday, 10 April 2012 7:59 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Thrust line offsets Does anyone have thoughts / experience with the best thrust line offset to use for the KR2? I have a suby motor with Redrive so the prop turns clockwise viewed from the cockpit. My engine mount appears to have close to 1 deg offset to the right built into it, but I have heard that 3 deg is likely to be closer to what is best. The a'c has a fixed rudder trim tab with quite a lot of right rudder bias (tab bent to the left) and, as I recall, there was a fair bit of yaw variation with throttle. Pitch changes with throttle seemed to be fairly minimal Would appreciate some guidance as I will soon be remounting the engine to the airframe Cheers Martin Pearce KR2 19 - 7814 rocketdri...@optusnet.com.au ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> first flight problems
Hi Dan I have a Jabiru 2200 in my KR2 and it is wonderful. I also think that you are too far back in the CofG range. Don't add weight permanently. Add weight to confirm this but just lengthen the engine mount and cowl. See http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2 for details on my KR2 And about three quarters down the page is a link to how I did my W&B (direct link http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/w_and_b.htm ) I did have a problem with my new undercarriage as I mounted the mains too far forward. Solo this was not a problem. But two up was different, I had too much weight on the tail when taking off and could not lift the tail before the main wing started to fly in ground effect, scary stuff. After much research I found that there is range for the undercarriage in from of the CofG, so I changed the mounting brackets and fixed that. Now it is perfect. Feel free to contact me regarding any aspects of my Jabiru installation. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of DAN INA GLANDT Sent: Monday, 19 March 2012 8:37 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> first flight problems Hi, After getting the brakes to work smoothly and completing my biannual flight check the day before, I tried the first flight test of my KR2S conventional gear with Jabiru 2200. It was a good day with a steady headwind of about 10 mph right down the 6000 runway. The plan was to take off and fly along at 20 to 30 feet and then land. I got off the ground quickly at about 75% throttle. I expected that I would have had to apply some back pressure to the stick to lift off and climb but did not. The plane nosed up and climbed to 30 feet or so, then slowly nosed down some to about 20 feet then the nose started back up. This happened like 3 cycles. All the time I am holding the stick as steady as I could in pitch, not wanting to aggravate the situation and get into PIO. I felt no feedback stick pressure either forward or backward. I reduced power slowly and lost altitude until it felt safe to flare. Then I reduced power and slowly applied back pressure. The pitch oscillations continued. I could not hold a steady pitch angle as I flared. The landing was in a word wild, but successful. I can attest that the gear is rugged. The plane never felt like it was going to stall. It just settled. With no feedback pressure, it basically felt as if I had no control. The safety person watching is a pilot and said it looked just like one of his radio controlled models he flew that was tail heavy. The next day, we did a weight and balance with 6 gal of fuel in the header tank and myself in the plane just as it was during the flight. The cg was 12 aft of the wing leading edge, the center of the range. The empty weight is 640 lbs. I can add 20 lbs of weight right behind the engine but it will only move the cg to 10.93 aft of the L.E. As fuel burns off, some of that gain would be lost. If I add 40 lbs to the front, the plane will probably fall on its nose when I get out. The control cables from the bellcrank behind the rear spar to the elevator are tight. There is a small amount of play where the control stick mounts in the cross tube which connects to the bellcrank via a push pull tube. Because of the looseness at the bottom of the stick, the top of the stick can move at the most 1/8 for/aft before the elevator moves. I have a feeling that I am overlooking something and I hope to receive some comments that will help explain what happened and some ideas for a reasonable remedy. At this point, it appears that it is a cg problem. I am 5 10 ½ and weigh 190 dressed for the flight. Losing 40 lbs would be good, but probably not realistic. If the plane is that sensitive to cg location, it looks like carrying fuel in the wing tanks or any luggage would be out the question. Dan
KR> A=L*W
Thanks Jeff What a great bit of information. Barry Kruyssen -Original Message- Span vs cord is defined as aspect ratio. My interpretation of your first question would be, how does the aspect ratio of a wing affect the flight characteristics? -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM
KR> Glass over Dynel
I have no problem with the change of cloth as long as you are using resins that will bond. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Robin Macdonald Sent: Friday, 14 October 2011 7:09 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Glass over Dynel Hi Guys Just curious, I see someone is laminating glass over dynel. Personally I would not change material, there may be different characteristics that you don't know about or understand, until they part company. Anyone else had comments. Robin. Chch. NZ >From the place of 8000 aftershocks in 12mths. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Engine Failure on Take OFF.
Hi Phil Sorry to hear about your accident. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Phil Matheson Sent: Monday, 26 September 2011 8:26 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: KR> Engine Failure on Take OFF. Well, it can happen to you. Last night 1730 at 500 ft Engine stopped dead. Lack of landing spots. Had to make 150' turn to safe ground. Check, tanks pumps NO start, but engine wind milling. A bit hot and ran out of field, had to lift over fence, then channel, stall, O S*#T - ground. Bugger. Walked away. KR home in my workshop. Damage, Prop, nose wheel collapse, L main collapse. Under inner wing whole from wheel. But main leg undamaged, the main bolts Sheared OFF, as did the nose wheel to fire wall bolts. NO cowl damage only paint. Engine mount bent. FOUND the cause this morning, the coil lead came out of the distributor Cap. No wonder it would not start. Did I seem Mark Jones make a cover or his dist. cap, Should listen to Mark. Impact point Google Earth 145 32.527 E 35 39.681S only 400m from my home. Phil Matheson VH PKR. KR2. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Jabiru 3300 weight vs corvair
Hi Mark >From Jabiru http://www.jabiru.net.au/ 83.5 kg (178 lbs) complete including exhaust, carburettor, starter motor, alternator and ignition system Only thing missing is the 3.5 ltr of oil and the air box. It's hard to beat the Jabiru weight, the price helps lighten your wallet as well (double the weight saving) Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ -Original Message- I can tell you that my Corvair engine weighs right at 245 pounds complete, with everything it needs to run except fuel in the lines and electrons in the wires (that's carb, exhaust, airbox, generator, oil, etc), and on my first flight I tested the mount to 5 g's on the meter. I doubt the published weight for Continentals or Jabirus is absolutely "full-up", so keep that in mind when my 245 sounds heavy. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website at http://www.N56ML.com
KR> Jabiru 3300
In my experience the Jabiru will not last long if run at 2700 rpm as the barrels will glaze and then oil consumption will go through the roof. I have 2 Jabiru 2200 4 cylinder engines, one in my KR2 and one in a Jabiru J160. The KR2 I have only ever flown hard, 2950 rpm plus, the CHT's are around 310 Fahrenheit, and have had no problems with the engine. On the other hand the J160 was flown more conservative, 2750 to 2800 rpm because it constantly had CHT's around 360 Fahrenheit. The J160 has had the heads done up 3 times, 2 new sets of barrels. I modified the cowling and the RAMAIR ducts and bought the temperature down to 320 Fahrenheit and now run it at 2950 rpm and have no problems (and get there faster). The same applies to the 3300 engine as I regularly fly with friends who have the 6 cylinder engines have and also had problems. One of them would throttle back for hours and fly at my cruise speed and that stuffed his engine. Jabiru specify: Max. CHT (Climb) 200°C (392°F) Max Continuous CHT (Cruise) 180°C (356°F) In reality we have found max of 180°C (356°F) and cruise 160°C (320°F) gives us best results. I have my Grand Rapids EMS alarm come on at 175°C and rarely have that come on. Another trick to play with is to try flying with the ball off centre and see what that does to your temps. On climb in the J160 I fly with the ball off centre to the left by about 1/16 inch and that drops the temp on the hottest cylinder by 5°CWOW. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ -Original Message- In order to operate the Jabaru 3300 equipped Sonex as light sport, it requires a placard on the panel stating that the engine RPM must be limited to 2700 RPM after 5 minutes of flight. Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM - Original Message -
KR> Jabiru powered KR2-S
Hi Kolbjoern I have a standard KR2 with a Jabiru 2200 Engine. See my WEB pages http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/jabiru_engine.htm http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/w_and_b.htm Being that the KR2S is bigger than the standard KR2 I would go for the Jabiru 3300 engine (which is still lighter than a WV conversion engine and 120HP). Any other info please contact me. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/
KR> Ballistic Recovery chute
Hi I have a Galaxy Ballistic Chute GRS 5/450 fitted to my KR2, see http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/grs_ballistic_chute.htm and Information on it can be seen on http://www.galaxysky.cz . Having had one accident and not using it I don't think I would fit one again as it only protects you for a major structural failure or a mid air collision (if you survive long enough to pull the chute cable). My accident was an engine out and I tried to land in a paddock which resulted in significant damage. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Craig Williams Sent: Thursday, 19 May 2011 7:00 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Ballistic Recovery chute I talked to BRS last year about this and they knew of one installation that they have some drawings of. I may install the 1050 softpack with a 24 lb weight penalty depending on my max gross once the plane is done. Cheap insurance if you ask me. My guess is most people would feel it's a waste of time and money but if you ever have a need to use it. Well nuf said. Craig http://www.kr2seafury.com/8.html --- On Thu, 5/19/11, omotosho olalekan wrote: > From: omotosho olalekan > Subject: KR> Ballistic Recovery chute > To: kr...@mylist.net > Date: Thursday, May 19, 2011, 7:31 AM > Hi Guys, > > I will like to know if anybody here have ballistic recovery > chute on his/her KR > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> upside down glassing
What Pete said and then put a foam mattress (or simular) on a piece of strong plywood (again or simular) underneath the repair and using a jack put slight upward pressure to prevent any sagging. The problem with this method is you can get wrinkles if you are not very careful, use very thick plastic. Using this method, I just finished repairing a Jabiru tail dragger (full composite aircraft) that ground looped and fractured the undercarriage mounting points. Regards Barry Kruyssen Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Pete Sent: Thursday, 23 December 2010 11:43 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> upside down glassing Try laying the section you need up on some plastic, in reverse. Plastic, peel ply, glass, epoxy, glass. Brush it out so it's wetted and then pick the whole lot up and stick it directly to the area you want it applied to. squeegee it well and tape the edges. I've not done this on a plane yet, but I have done it on a boat. I don't think the applications should be too different. Cheers. Pete. On 24/12/2010 00:09, airgu...@comcast.net wrote: > I have some repairs to the belly that need two layers of fiberglas. Can't flip the finished bird. Any clever tips of how to glass upside down. Folks from down under must have to do this all the time ;). > > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Small hat mount or glasses mount camera
Hey Phil What brand and model is the camera regards -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of phillipmathe...@bigpond.com Sent: Friday, 3 December 2010 1:44 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Stalls Video full stall. - Joe that is a good idea. I have now purchased a small hat mount or glasses mount camera. I will look at that soon. Phil Matheson Down under. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Mains possition
Hi When I crashed my KR2 4 years ago, during the rebuild I move the mains forward to give more weight on the tail wheel when empty. This worked fine solo. 2 up there is too much weight behind the CofG and the main wing started to fly before the tail plane. Full forward stick and the tail was still on the ground and with the angle of attack and ground affect the aircraft lifted off the ground in a very nose high attitude and mushed there, tail still on the ground. I pulled the power and it flopped back on the ground. No one hurt, no damage to the KR2. I need to move the mains back, but how far? The question to you tail dragger builders with non stock KR2 undercarriage, is how far in front of the CENTER of the CofG is the center of the axle with the plane in the flying attitude? Thanks Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com
KR> Wing attachment fitting guides
Hi John sent me some pictures of his wing attachment guides which I have posted on the net for him. http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/johnnordin/ enjoy Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2
KR> Divorce Result of Wing Attachment Fight
Yeah John Put the pictures on a WEB page and if you cannot the email them to me k...@bigpond.com and I'll put them in a web page for you. Regards Barry -Original Message- I have a male/female tubing that lines up the wing as you start the connection. A friend used it on his homebuilt and tell me it worked great. I have two pictures to show if it's OK to post? John Nordin
KR> test
KR> Jabiru engine installation
Hi Dan You may be able to deduce from my spreadsheet, Weights and Balance Excel Document 1 - Latest data on certified scales, that I stay in the front 6.45 inches of the C of G range (I was aiming for the front 6 inches). I achieved this by having the most forward configuration (full fuel plus 80 kg pilot) at the very front of the C of G range. My worst case scenario is fully loaded (122kg passenger plus 16 kg baggage plus me) with minimum fuel. I have flown my KR2 configured as such, though I had 14 litres of fuel on which gave me a C of G 6.16 inches. I have never loaded the KR2 like this since testing, maximum loading for normal operations does not have a C of G of greater than 4.2 inches which is myself plus 100kg passenger and no baggage. 95 percent of the time there is just me plus 5kg of baggage so TOW is 366kg (808lbs) and C of G of 1.3 inches. Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of DAN INA GLANDT Sent: Wednesday, 5 May 2010 4:00 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Jabiru engine installation Barry, Thanks for the weight and balance information. This will be very helpful. I keep coming up with quite a bit longer mount for the KR2s. That may be because of the extra length fuselage. From reading through the forum on a search of cg, I am led to believe that the real cg range is more like 8" behind leading edge to 13.5" behind leading edge, so makes for a long engine mount on mine. I am still working on thinking this through so really appreciate your input. Dan
KR> Jabiru engine location
Hi Dan I fitted a Jabiru 2200 to my standard KR2 in Sep 2004 and this is my WEB page about the W & B. http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/w_and_b.htm My engine mount ended up being 440 mm long Hope this helps Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.athertonairport.com.au/kr2/ -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of DAN INA GLANDT Sent: Sunday, 2 May 2010 10:16 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Jabiru engine location HI, Would someone be willing to help verify a reasonable engine location for my KR2s for a Jabiru 2200. Data is as follows: Ref line - firewallFuselage levelTanks empty Nothing mounted forward of firewallFirewall aft - all in place (seats, wings, canopy, turtle deck, landing gear [conventional gear], tailTwo people in seats weighing 366 lbs Look at rearward cg @ 15" behind leading edge. Understand allowable range is 8" to 16". Firewall to wing leading edge is 14.5" Weight on mains is 615# 17.625" behind ref lineWeight on tailwheel is 138# 158.25" behind ref line Estimated weight of engine, cowl, prop, mount, battery, etc. is 173# Total estimated weight is 173+615+138 = 926# Solve for D, the distance to the cg of engine, etc. 615x17,625 + 138x158.25 - 173D = 929x(14.5+15)10839.375 + 21838.5 - 27405.5 = 173D D = 30.48" Firewall to engine attach points will be 23". The tank behind the firewall holds 10 gallons. The 8" dia al wink tanks (formed to a d shape) are mounted directly behind front spar.
KR> VW electronic and magneto timing (was Taxi Tests)
Hi Neal I have a 2000cc VW with the same configuration in a motor glider, top set of plugs on a slick magneto and the bottom set (automotive plugs) fires off of the Bosch electronic ignition and it idles smooth as silk with both set to 28 degrees. I seem to recall that the slick magneto is set to 28 degrees as well. There is no mechanical advance in the slick magneto, just an impulse coupling. The impulse coupling is what makes the clicking noise when you wind the engine over by hand. The impulse coupling retards the timing when the revs are below about 500 rpm (cranking speed). Now it is real important to have the timing for both at 28 degrees because if one fires before the other then the first one to fire is the engine timing as the fuel burn in the cylinder has occurred, the second plug's energy is wasted. Now to your back firing. I would say that the timing for the electronic ignition is more advanced than you think because at idle, 800 rpm, both ignition systems should be at 28 degrees. Also the difference between running on any one ignition and both is only about 100 rpm when at 2000 rpm There should not be any "lighting a rocket in the cylinders" performance improvements. I set the timing on the magneto as per http://www.pa18.de/Technik/Slick.pdf and then set the electronic with a timing light when running at idle and then check at 2000 rpm (though the rpm makes no difference). Other things that can affect the magneto, is the rotor timing inside the slick magneto. I have found one where the rotor was retarded by one tooth. The engine ran perfect up to 2400 rpm and then missed under load. This is not picked up during normal run ups as they are done at 2000 rpm. I picked it up when the I forgot to turn the electronic ignition on after a shutdown during flight. Now during test flights of aircraft I test each ignition system when at full throttle and under load in a climb to ensure they work correctly. Hope this helps Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com Australia -Original Message- I have an 1835cc VW with a Rev-Flow carburetor. The engine fires the top set of plugs on a slick magneto and the bottom set (automotive plugs) fires off of the electronic ignition from Great Planes. The electronic ignition is preset to 28 degrees before top dead center as was recommended in the setup instructions. That's of course why it's not started using the electronic ignition. The engine is started using the mag with it's mechanical advance and once it's running the electronic is switched on using a switch on the instrument panel. When it's switched on, it's like lighting a rocket in the cylinders as the engine really picks up power, I'm sure due to the hotter spark of the electronic ignition. My problem is in getting the engine to idle correctly. With the electronic ignition turned on, the engine backfires some during slow taxi (at this point there shouldn't be any other kind, right?) and I believe it's due to the preset timing of the electronic ignition firing too soon for the slow speed of the engine. If I taxi out using only the mag it seems to idle slowly at a lower RPM but this does seem to load up the automotive plugs so that when the electronic ignition is finally turned on it takes a few seconds to clear the plugs. I've had it stall several times at idle but I think that I just need to preset the throttle slide open a little more, as it might be set so it's too far closed and cuts off the air flow when the throttle is all the way closed. This is with the mixture set at full rich by the way. I need some thoughts on how to get this to fire evenly with the electronic ignition on at idle. Does the timing need to be decreased some? I believe I can conquer the idle problem just by readjusting the slide in the carb a little but I'm puzzled on the backfiring at idle. Once on the runway when I roll in the throttle, it really accelerates quickly and is smooth running.
KR> Header Tank Rework
Hi Dave If you fuel tank does not leak now I would not cut into it as getting repairs/modifications on fuel tanks to not leak is a fiddly, time consuming job. I would change the instruments for ones that fit. (And I have 20+ years of fibre glassing experience) Then again I am all over doing time consuming modes to my aircraft. I just want to fly. Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dave Dunwoodie Sent: Thursday, 18 March 2010 8:20 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Header Tank Rework Hello all! I just bought a flying KR2 and am in the process of adding some instrumentation. I discovered that the new instruments are about 1 1/2" longer than I have room for, and it appears that moving the panel is not a viable option. I would appreciate some information concerning what type of epoxy to use, what type of fiberglass cloth to use, etc., etc., etc. if it becomes necessary to cut an indentation into the fuel tank. Thanks so much, and Thank You to ALL of you for the wealthy of information I've discovered here! Best Regards, Dave N1199P. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Tail wheel/rudder interconnection
Zero toe in and zero camber are the what we are aiming for. But our toe in changes with the forward movement because of our suspension design. Our legs are springs which stick out sidewards from and down and therefore MUST flex in ALL directions, though for and aft should be very minimal because of its shape. (Just apply your brakes and apply power and see how much they flex, mine move back about 6mm). The DC3 and B17 suspensions work directly for and aft and up and down, therefore their toe in does not change with suspension movement. Their suspension is nothing like the average KR2 (apples and oranges :-). Again my one cents worth. Merry Christmas All Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Larry&Sallie Flesner Sent: Wednesday, 23 December 2009 10:53 AM To: KRnet Subject: RE: KR> Tail wheel/rudder interconnection > TOE OUT IS BAD. Hi Barry; I come from an automotive background and > I felt the same way until I read an article that claimed that > toe-out was better, go figure, and now I cannot remember were I > read that but I'm still looking mfreeman ++ Assuming no fore and aft flex in the gear, I want my wheels trying to roll in the same direction as the airplane is moving. Anyone know what toe-in / toe-out the gear on a DC3 or B17 are set to. I'm guessing it's zero toe-in / toe-out. :-) How many years has the DC 3 been flying, 70 years or so? Larry Flesner
KR> Tail wheel/rudder interconnection
Hi Dan With regards to your wheel alignment. Never, ever should you have toe out. TOE OUT IS BAD. Let me explain (from what I know), a small amount of toe in is required as when the vehicle is moving forward, any movement (give, spring) in the suspension (and steering on cars) will result in the wheels pivoting backwards (every so slightly) and thus the wheels will end up parallel which is where we want them. Now with toe out you will find that the vehicle will veer (dive) left or right and when you correct it, it will over correct. In cars (where I have most of my limited experience in wheel aligning) toe out makes it hard to drive a car straight on very smooth flat road, the car keeps wanting to wander. Having a toe in of zero will most likely result in toe out when the vehicle is moving forwards. Too much toe in will scrub the tyres causing unnecessary wear. For more detail see may email in the archive http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp dated 13 Feb 2008 and from k...@bigpond.com. My one cents worth (down from 2 cents due to the recession). As per normal, your results may differ and I'm no expert. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Myron (Dan) Freeman Sent: Wednesday, 23 December 2009 7:17 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Tail wheel/rudder interconnection I encountered problems during takeoff and landing with the plane wanting to drift left even with no crosswind and after checking the wheel alignment I discovered that the wheels were misaligned to the left by several inches (measured at a 10 foot distance) and were toed-in, this I am told is not good, if anything they should be toed-out slightly. Anyway, after correcting the wheel alignment the plane taxied straight and true but after several harrowing takeoffs and landings in mild crosswind conditions I knew that something else was wrong with it.
KR> battery location
Mine is in the firewall inside the engine compartment. In your case, moving it that far forward will effect your CofG. You will have to calculate this to ensure you stay with in limits. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of airgu...@comcast.net Sent: Monday, 14 December 2009 12:29 PM To: KRnet Posting Subject: KR> battery location Now that winter has hit in force, I am looking at "improvements" to make. One is to move the battery from just behind the seat to some more forward location. One is in the engine compartment and the other is just forward of the main spar. The reason for the move is poor starting performance. The cables that I have from the battery to the firewall are evidently crappy and if I have to do that much work, maybe a shorter path for the volts would help too. Where do most folks place the battery? Paul in NH N7970K ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> New subject - This is not KR!-- now cooling systems, general
Hey Dene Please email me off net at k...@bigpond.com Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia
KR> 3300 Jabiru to cool correctly
Hi Dene We had simular problems on a Zenair. No matter how big a lip we put on or how big the cowl exit it would overheat. My opinion was that the shape of the cowl and the underside of the aircraft caused a high pressure area at the cowl exit underneath. We put vents (like gills) on the side of the cowl for a 20 degree Celsius drop in temperature. All Good :-) Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dene Collett Sent: Monday, 7 December 2009 3:24 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> 3300 Jabiru to cool correctly I have tried all kinds of lips of various sizes at the exit to no avail. I also have an in flight adjustible flap that hinges down to open and close the exit which forms a hige "lip" when in the full open position. It also has sides as we thought the air being displaced by the flap was spilling round the sides of the flan satisfying the low pressure at the mouth of the exit.. no luck. The air inlets were sized the same size as the four seater Jabiru aircraft which uses the same motor. What was not taken into considderation was the fact that the motorglider flies at a much lower airspeed than the Jabiru. My next experiment is to enlarge the inlets and see what difference that makes. Regards Dene Collett Avlec Projects cc Port Elizabeth South Africa
KR> Intake Manifold on Black Bird
Hi Dan Have you thought of putting something like a Hiclone in the intake manifold to keep the air/fuel mixed. http://www.fuelsaver.com.au/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2&osCsid=efe28 544798ffd63723ee753c0eae660 Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com RAA registered 19-3873 Australia regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Thursday, 12 November 2009 8:39 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: KR> Intake Manifold on Black Bird Well, boys and girls. It is going to be another beautiful weekend and the Black Bird is officially grounded until I find a solution for this intake problem. I discussed it with several people at Corvair College and the net of those discussions was that I had to do something. I sent pics of my system to Ellison, and they told me "your serpentine intake manifold forces the wet mixture to negotiate two 90 degree turns before arriving at the four into one distribution section. Each of these 90 degree bends function as a very efficient liquid separator, causing most of the atomized fuel emerging from the TBI to be transformed into liquid puddles which migrate to the cylinders as moving slugs of liquid fuel. The liquid slugs are ingested randomly and unevenly by individual cylinders, causing the sputtering". Therefore, I would be a fool to not do something to change that. Jim Brewer has a rear drive VW with almost the same setup as mine, except that he has room to have a straight run from the intake plenum, to the Ellison, and he has a very smooth running engine. I do not have the luxury of that kind of room on top of the engine, so I am going to have to move it back down to the underside, as most all others are. If anyone has a "single tube" to the dual ports, type of intake that they don't need, I am interested. The one I really like is the one that AeroVee puts on their heads, but they won't sell it to you unless you have their engine, which I think sucks a bit. I am thinking of chopping up the one that I have to make a single tube input to the dual port, but that is a lot of work, and I hate to mess up an intake that a turbo installation could modify for their use. ( it started life as a Revmaster turbo intake ) Anyway, more to come, and when I solve this intake issue for good, I will be off to the races. PS: My Vair did not make it to College due to some last minute issues with the cylinders that were delivered to me. More on that next year. Daniel R. Heath da...@windstream.net See N64KR at <http://krbuilder.org/> http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2010 - KR Gathering in Richmond, Ky - I39 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Phoenix Accident
Hi Bob Sorry to hear about the accident, glad to hear no serious injuries. Does lost power mean the engine cut out, was missing or spluttering? Does the engine turn over by hand now? Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://athertonairport.com.au/barryk/kr2/ RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Friday, 6 November 2009 2:33 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Phoenix Accident October 30 started off as a beautiful, sunny day with unlimited ceiling/visibility and light/variable winds. After a thorough pre-flight and two hi-speed taxi runs, N811RJ took off. The engine was sounding excellent, aircraft was stable in all parameters, THEN at 300' began losing power, engine still running and no obvious instrument/gauge indication anything was wrong. Aircraft entered a left hand l5 degree turn and safely landed upon a dry flat area next the riverbed. UNFORTUNATELY, the aircraft slid on the light dust over the hard surface for over 450' and impacted an earth berm just before Camelback Rd. The plane was being flown by an excellent test pilot, who was injured, receiving a deep cut in the forehead, requiring 21 stitches, slight abrasions on his left hand. He will heal and be okay. Test pilot told me he lost power at 300' and the engine responded to mixture and throttle, just no power. Shut everything down just be landing. Impact with berm at about 40 mph. The shoulder harness attachment points failed, ripping the wooden structure from the fuselage. Damage includes spinner & plate, 2 prop blades, nose gear, one exhaust pipe, oil filter casting, distributor cap, main spar broke loose from fuselage breaking framework around it, pilot side left rudder pedal bent, bottom of the fuselage from firewall (firewall loose in a few places) to back the pilot seat torn loose. FAA/NTSB preliminary conclusion is that the fuel tank vent was blocked partially somehow at altitude and caused the loss of power. I HAVE STARTED REBUILDING. Until I know more, Bob -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3087 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Radio
The Microair has very small knobs and is fiddley to change in flight. I prefer the xcom760, it has dual watch, built in intercom plus many more features. See http://www.xcom760.com/comparison/comparison.html Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com RAA registered 19-3873 Australia Regards -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Robin Macdonald Sent: Saturday, 17 October 2009 6:49 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Radio Hi guys, Slowly getting on with my KR, at present doing wings & tanks. I am looking at radio's our $ is high so thought it might be a good time to buy. I have been looking at the "Microair Model M760" & now someone has suggested the "Flightline FL760", has anyone any thoughts or had experience with this unit. Many thanks Robin N.Z. 70% done 95% to go ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Bad News: N4DD Down at MVN
Sorry to hear, Give Dan our my best wishes and hope he gets out of hospital before you guys drink all the beverages. -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of David Mullins Sent: Friday, 18 September 2009 8:06 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Bad News: N4DD Down at MVN Just a short note that N4DD crashed on landing today at Mt. Vernon. Dan Freeman has some good cuts and scrapes on his head, arms and feet, but should pull through. He is currently at a local hospital being treated for his injuries. I almost had the crash in pictures as I was walking out of the terminal to shoot the first KR arrival as he touched down and bounced back up into the air. A gust of wind pushed him further up into the air. He tried to correct and get the nose down when the gust subsided and he fell 30+ feet to the ground. He hit with the nose down and the right wing down. The plane slid the length of the taxiway, about 130 ft. The right wing folded under the fuselage. The engine and instrument were broken off and swung back along the fuselage side. Will give an update on Dan's condition once I hear something. Dave Mullins > > ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> My KR2 Flies again
Yesterday my KR2 flew again after my crash 3 Years and 4 months ago. J Even though I am current, 10+ hours tail dragger in the last month, my first few landings were a bit rough. I put 3 hours on yesterday and 2 hours of those were touch an goes. 80% were 500ft circuits, 2 minutes each. J Landings are much improved. One 150Kt pass JJ Back to the airport today but its very windy 25ks + so no KR2 today. But I will be flying my Motor Glider J Regards Barry Kruyssen <mailto:k...@bigpond.com> k...@bigpond.com <http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2> http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia
KR> KR2s Plans and Quick Build Parts
Hey Steve Glover Are you on selling KR2 Plans yet? And have you got your WEB page of quick build parts for the KR2 up yet? For those that missed it see Stephen Glover's emails for July 2, 2009 in the archive. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia
KR> Wiring diagram for King KT76 transponder wanted
I found this on the WEB http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/KT76A-76C-78A.pdf and this KT-76A/C 1 ground - 2 14volt + dimmer 3 ground - 4 not used 5 not used 6 not used 7 not used 8 ALTITUDE D4 KT-76C model only 9 DME suppression 10 ext standby 11 14volt + input 12 not used A ground - B ALTITUDE B4 C ALTITUDE B2 D ALTITUDE C1 E ALTITUDE B1 F ext ident G not used H ALTITUDE C4 I not used J ALTITUDE A4 K ALTITUDE A2 L ALTITUDE C2 M ALTITUDE A1 N not used Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Willie van der Walt Sent: Thursday, 3 September 2009 2:48 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Wiring diagram for King KT76 transponder wanted I am looking for a wiring diagram for a King KT76 transponder. Looked all over on the net but can only find one for the KT76A. If anyone can help please e-mail it to touri...@intekom.co.za
KR> Question
Try PocketFMS http://www.pocketfms.com/ though it is not free anymore :-( -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Gary Robison Sent: Monday, 24 August 2009 3:28 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Question Last year at the Gathering someone had GPS software on a lap top and I believe it was freeware. Where did that come from?? Gary Robison Blairsville, PA 15717 Building KR -1.5ss djgaryl...@verizon.net ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> service ceiling
On a hot day my motor glider is lucky to get 100' per minute at see level :-( -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Thursday, 8 October 2009 6:12 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> service ceiling John Skorczewski wrote: > I have a question from your recent posting. What is the sevice ceiling for > a Kr-2s with a corvair engine? I have seen many stats concerning the plane > and the engine---but not that one. Any info? The definition of service ceiling is the altitude at which the rate of climb is reduced to 100' per minute. I can't answer that question, but on my plane, it's higher than 17,500', but not a lot higher. Sounds like a test is in order...
KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 216
The Zodiac 601 is quite nice. At our local airport there is a 601 and the 2 owners were hesitant to fly it at first. But looking at the 601 it is easy to fly out side the flight envelope and over stress the aircraft. - easy to exceed VNE (can be done straight and level well before full throttle is achieved) - easy to exceed VNO (Max Normal Operations) - easy to exceed the "G" loading limits. For all the aircraft that have had accidents we don't know if they have been over stressed or if the control cable tensions were correct. There are a lot of 601's flying and if you fly within the envelope and keep the correct tension on the control cables it should be fine. The guys who own the local 601 have done close to 100 hrs with several long cross country flights and it is performing admirably. They have been in some real rough air and just back it off, it is flow very conservatively and they check the cable tension regularly. I would still rather have a KR2S :-) Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Tony King Sent: Tuesday, 28 July 2009 8:28 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 216 The question of wing strength in the KR came up from someone misreading a post a few days ago by a fellow wanting to move to a KR instead of the Zodiac 601 he's currently building. There have been several crashes of 601s attributed to structural failure of the wings due to flutter in the ailerons if the cables aren't correctly tensioned. This builder is now afraid to fly his 601 and posted to KRNet looking for a KR project as an alternative. Cheers, Tony King Brisbane Australia
KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 216
2.5 years ago I had a forced landing in a field where I hit a contour and folded the undercarriage. This resulted ion the wing hitting the ground hard enough to snap the last foot off. After a though inspection the wing attachment fittings are still perfect and I am re-using them. Where the wing attachment fitting bolts to the spar shows no signs of movement or stress, therefore I am not even taking them off. I am quite satisfied (even impressed) with the strength of the KR2 wings, carry through spar and wing attachment fittings. I have all but completed the rebuild. All that is left is: - replace radio - replace centre stick (removed while working on new toe brakes for ease of access) - replace battery - fit prop - take to airport - wheel align - fly :-) Finding time to complete the work is the issue. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Monday, 27 July 2009 9:11 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 216 I have been around the KR for over 25 years, and have never heard of an accident where wing failure was the cause or contributed to the accident. There has always been speculation about the wing attach fittings being the weak point, but I think that was also proved to be a myth, at last year's gathering. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2009 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Ill There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying has begun. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- I just read one of your readers say that there has been a number of KR2 wing failures lately. Is this true or is this a false rumor? ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Grass is Good!
Hi Ivan When doing a wheel alignment I have the aircraft loaded as it is most commonly flown. One person, 85kg, 50% fuel load, 45kg and 10kg of baggage. I initially did my wheel alignment in the flying position, with the fuselage level. I could not taxi worth a dam, never ground looped but was all over the place (I looked like a real goose taxiing and more than once I was asked how much I had had to drink). There is a big difference with the wheel alignment with the tail wheel on the ground. Then I thought, most of the time when we are on the ground we are taxiing and when the tail wheel is off the ground we have good rudder control. So I wheel aligned it with the tail wheel on the ground. Now it is fantastic to taxi and I notice no difference when taking off or landing. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Ivan Martinez Sent: Monday, 13 July 2009 10:54 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Grass is Good! Hello Larry... My name is Ivan. I met you at Hondo, Texas several years ago. I fly a Sonerai with a C85-8 yellow with a blue nose I live in Sugar Land a suburb of Houston. Another Sonerai with an A80-8 also flew in Hondo from Phoenix. When you do your alignment, do you level it or do you do it on all 3 wheels or do you make the fuselage level? When you say loaded , do you mean with just you & fuel? Thanks in advance. Hope to see you in Texas again. In October we have a flyin with 600 planes. Best flyin everyou can camp. If interested post me off site. Ivan Martinez, Sugar Land, Texas.
KR> Progress Report
Hi Dan I have fibreglass legs and my axle stubs bolt directly to the legs. Therefore the shims may squash into (wear into) the leg so I put flox behind the axle to give a better mating surface. If I was bolting metal to metal I would not waste my time with flox (the automotive industry has been shimming wheel alignments for decades with great success :-) Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Saturday, 27 June 2009 7:25 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR> Progress Report Barry, I did the flox on my camber, and am doing the caster, but am wondering if the flox is really necessary. I know it makes a nice full shim, but it runs all over the place while it is curing. I thought I had just dreamed this up and was the only one doing it. Do you know if this is an accepted method, and what the flox contributes to the process? See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2009 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Ill There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying has begun. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
KR> Progress Report
Hi Dan When I crashed 2.5 years ago I drove my undercarriage backwards and up through my new wing stub fuel tanks. So along with repairing fuel tanks the undercarriage was also replaced. Both my wheels are currently toed in too much and way too much camber. I'll just use horse shoe shaped shim washers under the bolds to adjust each axle to get it right and then take the axles off, cotton flox behind them and bot it all back together with thew shims. Last time it took me about 3 hours to do both wheels. Before I start, most importantly, I need to get the wings on, 50% of fuel onboard and weight up the pilot seat to my 85kg to make the suspension spread as it would under average normal load, then do the wheel alignment. As for my Jabiru J160, it has the same 2200 engine as my KR2, flies very nicely (it is nice to sit out of the sun every once in a while), enormous baggage compartment, 130 litres of fuel in the wet wings. It's no KR2, it's more like the family car. I bought it to go touring in. We have no over heating problems with the engine. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Tuesday, 23 June 2009 7:47 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR> Progress Report Barry, You make "wheel alignment" seem so casual. I am doing that now on my KR as I found one side to be very toe out. I don't find it a simple thing to do. Also, why do you need to do this? You had your plane flying some time ago, did you not? What did you think of the Jab as an airplane? Have they fixed the cooling problems with that engine?
KR> Progress Report
Talk about learning something every flight. I just bought a Jabiru J160 aircraft in partnership with Dave, a 65 year old ex-ag pilot/instructor(15000 hours) who has not flown much in the last 20 years (only about 8 hours). We went for our first joint cross country flight last Saturday and I thought could fly smooth (I am a gliding instructor, 600+ hours) till Dave took over the controls. Man was he smooth after about 10 minutes of flying. So much to learn, I am truly humbled. Sunday I put the final coat of paint on the wings and cowl. Now just put on the rego stickers, fit the prop, oil overflow tank, radio and it's off to the airport. Assemble and wheel align then back in the air. :-) Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of M Blank Sent: Tuesday, 23 June 2009 1:36 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: RE: KR> Progress Report Something I will never forget as long as I live, when I made my first solo flight, I was scared stiff, until the wheels left the ground. Once the wheels left the ground I knew in my heart I HAD to land that airplane, no jitters, nothing, just me and the O-200 purrin along. I went around the pattern and lined up on the 1700 foot long island and landed just fine. You will do just fine, remember, you've came this far, you are already a pilot. Some think that once they get the ticket they no longer have anything to learn, THEY ARE WRONG! I learn something on every flight, even if it is something small, I am still learning and have been flying since 1996.
KR> Valdosta crash - lessons to be learned....
The most important thing to I would like to know is if all the wiring was aviation quality. The investigation should be able to determine this? Automotive wiring burns easily. What about fuses/breakers. With a short they should have popped. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2 RAA registered 19-3873 Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of william Clapp Sent: Sunday, 14 June 2009 1:27 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Valdosta crash - lessons to be learned I was really surprised to find out from Cary's friend Tim (a pilot) that he smoked all the time while flying. Cary had driven up to VA to pick up a plane that Tim had purchased and ferried it down with Tim about two weeks before the accident. On that flight (an airplane Cary had never flown before) Cary asked Tim if he could "light up" since it calmed him down. Of course Tim said no but it kind of shocked him as well. Apparently Cary had always smoked when flying. He got his license back in the 70s when it was typical to find ashtrays in airplanes. I personally dont think he tried to smoke on that flight but had another problem electrical in nature since the radio frequency changed and the engine was still running when he attempeted the landing. We wont ever know for sure but as I spend today installing a Dynon and EIS in an airplane I am spending extra time to secure all wiring properly and making sure there are good connectors. Be cautious and deliberate in your work everybody.
KR> Young Eagles Flights
My son is eighteen and some of his friends asked for rides, they were under eighteen (just) and considered minors in Australia. I would not take them for a flight without permission from their parents. -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Wednesday, 10 June 2009 7:51 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Young Eagles Flights > EAA International Young Eagles day is Saturday June 13, 2009. Does > anyone fly Young Eagles in their KR-2? I was told by our local EAA powers-that-be that flying Young Eagles in experimental aircraft was frowned upon by just about everybody involved, EAA at OSH included, although you may not find that in writing anywhere. And being afraid to leave my local treeline, I'm also reluctant to give myself the opportunity to kill any teenagers other than my own. Wrong attitude on my part, but that's the reality of the US legal system, or lack thereof
KR> Uphill runways
At Atherton airport runway 15 is down hill and predominately in to wind (cross wind). On the occasions the wind favours runway 33 it has to be more than 10kts for me to take off up hill in my motor glider, the KR2 I take off down wind quite often as I hate taxiing and it gets in the air so quick and handles so well. Regards Barry Kruyssen -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Monday, 11 May 2009 8:18 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR> Uphill runways So, would the reverse apply, take off down hill and down wind? I did that once, and did not think I was ever going to get airborne. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2009 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Ill There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying has begun. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of laser...@juno.com Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 12:19 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Uphill runways In my experience uphill always trumps whatever the wind is doing . . . unless it's a gale. Mike
KR> BRS Airplaine Parachute for Sale
It will need a chute repack as well as a "service" on the rocket. This is "return to base" type work. On my unit that is about a third of the original cost. This is still a bargain in my opinion. -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Linda Blain Sent: Monday, 11 May 2009 3:06 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> BRS Airplaine Parachute for Sale I have a BRS chute for sale the was originally intended for a KR2-S Please see my Craigslist ad PostingID: 1159357271 http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/rvs/1159357271.html Thank you, Linda Blain (602) 317-9288 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Senic flight
Hi All My KR2 is getting closer to going to the airport. Just have to paint the cowling and re-paint one wing. But I did have a nice flight in my motor glider down to Tully the other day and my wife took a couple of photos. http://www.athertonairport.com.au/gallery.html Not much of a sun set but still real nice flying weather. Regards Barry Kruyssen
KR> Cleaning Brushes and Buying Peel Ply
Hi Kurt I use only CHEAP brushes that cost less than a dollar (I had to try quite a few different brands to find one that did not shed to many hairs). Once I weigh up the cost of the cleaner, how much time and frustration I save, I just throw them away. My main tool is a 3" rubber squeegee for spreading and working the resin into glass. It's fast, easy and uses minimum resin. The 1" to 1.5" brush is only used where the squeegee cannot get and on edges that might pull a thread. James's "3 Jar" doesn't sound too bad. Regards Barry Kruyssen
KR> Spark Plug advise
Hi Dan Check out http://www.greatplainsas.com/scslick.html for their shielded spark plug adapters to use regular automotive spark plugs. Regards Barry Kruyssen -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Tuesday, 7 April 2009 9:04 AM To: 'KRnet' Subject: KR> Spark Plug advise I am putting new "beefier" heads on my KR. These are stock VW. I found the the spark plug for the mag, will not reach the chamber. The reach on the Rel 37 b is .5" and I need .75". Does anyone know where I can either get a "like" plug with that reach, or how to change out the ends of the magneto wires to fit on auto plugs?
KR> aileron travel / bellcrank
Hey David I'm with Larry, don't try to take the sensitivity out. I had 40 minutes KR2 time 15 months prior to my first flight in my stock KR2 and had absolutely no problems. Regards Barry Kruyssen http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/ -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Larry&Sallie Flesner Sent: Monday, 6 April 2009 7:10 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> aileron travel / bellcrank >Thanks Mr. Larry, > UI was just going to ask that question about the KR being so sensitive. >To take some of the sensitivity out of it couldn't you make the travel a bit >longer? >David Swanson +++ Almost anyone that has any "actual flight time" in a KR would not judge the controls as being "too sensitive". The controls are VERY LIGHT and the KR reacts VERY QUICKLY with any control input. I will make a statement and see how many KR pilots agree. If you don't experience any PIO in the first 5 seconds of flight ( liftoff ) you will grow to love the way it handles in the first 5 minutes of flight. Let's call it the 5 / 5 rule. Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> WARNING---Virus Alert; hopefully helpful info
Hi people I thought this was a group to talk about KR's and related aviation stuff. If I wanted to know about viruses, Macs and Linux I would join groups that talk about them. They have no place here. I am sick of hetting emails that waist time. Sorry for the rant but I just get tooo much spam. Let's keep on subject. I painted my wings and then turned them over to paint the other side. I did not allow enough drying time and the paint was too soft leaving marks in the paint work. Bugger. So I am going to strip them and repaint them again and offcourse the weather is terrible for painting. Regards Barry Kruyssen
KR> Inspection
Hi Peter I don't think your inspector was thinking. That rod end is many times stronger than the original plans aluminium and unless you seal the "waste of time" block it is a place for moisture to cause damage in the long term. But then he is the inspector and what can us mere mortals possibly know. Regards Barry Kruyssen -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Peter Drake Sent: Friday, 6 February 2009 8:33 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Inspection Just had my inspector here. He has signed off all the gluing and foaming and the dr Dean hinges on my rudder. I have been made to put hardwood blocks to support the stem of the rod ends see photos on my website www.peterskr2s.co.uk. All my other mods have been approved. I have also been making the seat, with blue styrofoam and a layer of bid both sides, it is fantastically strong and very light. photos soon. I'll soon be able to start glassing the tail and wings, when the weather gets a bit warmer.
KR> engine out take off
Joe raises a very important point here "keep the wing flying". As a glider instructor we teach/practice launch failures a lot. The most important thing is to get the nose down and maintain a safe speed near the ground (1.5 X stall speed). Winch launches are truly exhilarating as you can have around a 45 degree angle of attack (if you have never done a winch launch find a club near you and go for the ride of you life, also ask for spin training :-). During winch launches cable breaks are common and getting the nose down is life saving. Before you take off you should know what your options are. Once you get to your safe flying speed then you can re-evaluate your options. Just remember that more injuries have occurred from turning back rather than landing ahead (so I'm told). Check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqN3ixDFW8c And http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFT1K1rQvHA Or search YouTube for "winch launch glider cable break" Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com
KR> Hangar home update
I am green with envy. Very nice Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of ROBERT (Jack) COOPER Sent: Monday, 2 February 2009 7:00 AM To: KR builders and pilots Subject: KR> Hangar home update Its been a while since my last update but we are making some progress now. http://www.jackandsandycooper.com/newhouse4.html -- Jack Cooper Mosheim TN
KR> Stepwise Expenses - Dremel
Hi All Painted the KR2 last week so I am getting close to being back in the air, though it will still be at least 2 months as I am off the Japan for 5 weeks of snow boarding (one of my other obsessions in life). Re the Dremel. In Australia my original Dremal cost me $120 and has been repair twice for about $20 each time, it has not gone more than 10 months without needing repairs. So the third time it failed (I use it a lot, I mean a real lot) I bought a cheap Ozito Dremel look alike for $32 from Bunnings. It has a 2 year replacement warranty and works the same as the expensive Dremel, well actually better as I have had it year now and it has not failed. (That will put a curse on it for sure). I'm off to the shed now to work on the KR2. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com
KR> Nice to talk to someone at my stage of the game
For cutting anything, including fibreglass, I trim with a thin (1mm) cut off disk as seen at http://www.scis.com.au/Products/KC100-1INOX.aspx These are fantastic, especially on steel and fibreglass. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Teate, Stephen Sent: Wednesday, 28 January 2009 12:09 AM To: KRnet Subject: RE: KR> Nice to talk to someone at my stage of the game " wish I would have read that before. I let some overhang completely cure and now I am using sheet metal sheers to cut the excess. I am still loving it." Hello Kurt, Your fun is just beginning and so are your skills. I will let you in on one trick that I learned when trimming the excess of a cured skin. Dremel tool with a 1 1/4" cut-off wheel, or the drum sander if you don't have to remove too much material, is a lot faster and you are not as likely to pull the edge of your lay-up off the foam. If you are all air tool equipped you can use a die grinder with a 3" abrasive wheel to accomplish the same thing but a Dremel is a little easier to handle. If you don't already have one you will need to get one. I think I am on my fifth or sixth one and I doubt a KR has yet to be completed without one. Don't even think about the cordless ones, it will die on you when you don't need it to. Have fun! Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas
KR> First flight
Congratulation yeehaaa -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of jcho...@ksu.edu Sent: Friday, 23 January 2009 9:35 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> First flight I made my first flight in my KR today, and it went better than I ever could have expected! I made two seperate flights of 30 minutes each. It flew and landed great. I haven't pushed it yet, and it doesn't have wheel pants or a spinner on, but I had a groundspeed of 153 mph without a tailwind and flying straight and level. I can't wait to make my next flight! Thanks for the help and knowledge that I have gained from the list. Sincerely, Josh Choitz New KR pilot ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> N1213W back in the air
Aircraft engines are not the same as high performance racing engines. At the RPM we are running friction in the pipes and tuned length exhausts are going to do very little if anything. In fact we probably want a bit of back pressure in the exhaust to aid with fuel economy. As for wrapping the exhaust, if it is mild steel it will rust much quicker, and I agree with your IA that stainless would probably crack. The wrapping of fibreglass around your exhaust is also a fire hazard. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of ace nunye Sent: Wednesday, 21 January 2009 11:22 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: RE: KR> N1213W back in the air > Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:00:29 -0600> From: fles...@verizon.net> Subject: Re: KR> N1213W back in the air> To: kr...@mylist.net> OK, I have a question, I asked an IA friend and I'm not sure I agree with his answer so I'll ask the group. My neighbor is a round track guy and he has his headers wrapped with fiberglass insulating tape, he says this will keep exhaust gas hotter and therefore less dense. Exhaust gas that is less dense will exit without as much friction in the exhaust system, hence less back pressure. Ok, the IA says by keeping the heat in the exhaust system the S.S. steel exhaust pipes will be more prone to cracks because of excess heat. If one had a mild steel exhaust system then it wouldnt be as much of an issue, but if on the other hand one had stainless??? The question is, " To wrap or not to wrap THAT is the question. Are there other issues with having higher pipe temps, would this cause higher CHT or even higher exh valve temps? Comments?
KR> another sunset picture...
Spectacular -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Thursday, 15 January 2009 1:03 PM To: KRnet Cc: Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft Subject: KR> another sunset picture... See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/sunsets/0901148296m.jpg for what I saw at 7000' today. I flew over to Florence against a pretty stiff headwind, but enjoyed a ground speed of 245 mph on the way back!
KR> reworking my old KR-2
Hi John Lining/repairing the wing tanks. I did this to my KR2, though mine leaked due to an accident. Sorry not photos of the work, I'm camera shy. Here are a couple of points to ponder: - Use vinyl ester resin - Old tank surfaces must be ground with a grinder to ensure a good bond. (Remember if the old job is with vinyl ester then the surface will have a slight wax finish) - Lay up the tank bottom on a sheet of window glass, just wax it with mould release wax. You can even lay up with a layer of foam to make a foam sandwich, this will be very rigid so also coat the window glass with PVA to help get it off the window glass. To get a really smooth finish and no pin holes, first paint the window glass with resin only and let it start to go off, timing is everything here (no watching TV while waiting), then do your lay up as per normal. - When joining the bottom to the tanks with flox both surfaces must be ground to remove the wax and the flox must be mixed with vinyl ester. Have fun Regards Barry Kruyssen -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of John Gotschall I was thinking of cutting open the bottom of the wing and taking the tank bottom out. Then laying up 1 or two layers of light glass and vinyl ester resin inside the existing tank top and sides. At the same time replacing the filler necks, caps, vents, etc. Then laying up a vinylester flat sheet, again 2 layers of bid on something it can be removed from (suggestions? wax paper??) and later attaching the cured flat to the tank as a bottom plate (with flox?). Then foaming into place a bottom sheet of foam, sand to the shape of the wing then glass over and refinish the bottom of the wings. Can anyone point to a site outlining a re-work of wing tanks? Modern material on old glass?
KR> first engine run - turbo diesel in a caravan
Sorry for replying on line but Dave's ISP rejects emails from Australia :-( Hi Dave Do you have another email address I can email you on that doesn't reject Australia? You want real economy and more power from a turbo diesel? Fit LPG to you engine. See http://www.dieselongas.com or just google "diesel gas" to get a lot of information. I have done my Isuzu 4x4 2.8L turbo and it is fantastic. More power and torque than I thought possible. When I stop driving it like an 18 year old kid it gets much better fuel economy. Summary on how it works. Diesel on burns about 76% efficiency, by introducing a little gas with the air going into the engine the diesel then burns more like 95% efficiency. There are no modifications to the diesel engine or fuel system, just the air intake has a LPG injector added to it. The beauty of this is that when you run out of LPG you just are back to running your engine as it was before. There are many different systems, computerized, low pressure draw off, demand system to name a few. I have gone for a NON computerized system as they are cheaper, less prone to problems and I can tweak it myself. I'll get the system name and type for you from the guy who fitted mine and email it to you. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dave Arbogast, CISSP Sent: Monday, 17 November 2008 1:26 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> first engine run Sounded great John. Reminds me of my diversion from my KR2S to put a turbo diesel in a caravan. Very similar events. I'm almost ready for the third and hopefully final time of dropping the engine / trans into the Virginia body. http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15633 Soon I'll be back to KR land of building :-D -dave
KR> Failed Cam Gear Update
Hey Mark First, glad you landed safely. Is the camshaft gear heated and fitted to the camshaft or pressed on? Could the fitting to the camshaft have distorted the gear? Regards Barry Kruyssen -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of LG McCaw Sent: Tuesday, 4 November 2008 7:00 AM To: KRnet Subject: RE: KR> Failed Cam Gear Update I'm with Mark L also. I'm wondering if Clarks gears are heat treated after machining or something that might have distorted the gears.
KR> Mold layup
See my answers below in [square brackets] -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of phillabaum...@aol.com Sent: Friday, 31 October 2008 7:49 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> Mold layup Thanks for the help see additional question following... Steve -Original Message- From: Barry Kruyssen Subject: RE: KR> Mold layup Hi Steve When making my molds (and I have been making molds since the early 70's) I do the following: 4.Cover with a very generous coat of gel coat especially thick in corners and tight spots. Is this a polyester resin gel coat? [yes] 5.Lay up with 2 layers of 15oz or heavier chopped strand fibreglass (cheap stuff) using polyester resign (again cheap stuff but very rigid, epoxy is very flexible in comparison and we want the mold rigid). The other advantage of polyester is it cures fast. Remember that if the polyester sets you have to grind of the surface to stick to it again as the surface will have a wax coating once cured. When laying up parts in a mold I only use gel coat if the part is not being painted Gel coat is heavy, very heavy. Else I lay up as follows: Good point! 6.Instead of get coat I mix up some epoxy resin with filler thin enough to paint on but thick enough not to run down the sides and paint the mold and let cure to very tacky, almost touch dry. Constant touching up may be required to stop big runs while it is curing. This coat is fairly thin and reduces (by an enormous amount) the pin holes in your finished product and also gives you a very smooth finish which requires only a light sand and painting. Do you use a brush or a roller? [I use a brush unless I am doing a very large lay up, mainly because rollers soak up lots of resin but also they are useless on compound curves] original question from steve I picked up a cowling from Glenn in Biloxi to use to make a mold for mine.? I was wondering the lay up process.? I know wax three or four times then spray on release agent I have some PVA (I think if its not old).? Questions are: How many layers of cloth to make the mold? and how many layers to use on the final cowling? Of course I have 5.85oz KR glass and epoxy.? I really appreciate the use of the cowling and would like to return it as soon a possible.? I put it on my plane for fit check. Boy did it fire me up to finish the thing. Steve Phillabaum ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> carbon fibre resign
Epoxy resin -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of vince flying Sent: Thursday, 30 October 2008 5:51 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> carbon fibre resign When using carbon fibre what is the best combination of resign to use that will work best for the carbon fibre.on my kr2 __ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Mold layup
Hi Steve When making my molds (and I have been making molds since the early 70's) I do the following: 1.Make sure the plug (the existing piece you are pulling the mold from) has no scratches, cracks, chips or dends. I some exist fill them with candle wax and flush them off as smooth as possible. 2.Wax mold with several coats of mold release wax (yes there is a special polish/wax for mold release) and buff between layers. 3.Spray with PVA in several light coats to get a nice smooth finish and allow too dry thoroughly. I have used PVA that was more than 5 years old, I don't believe it goes off. 4.Cover with a very generous coat of gel coat especially thick in corners and tight spots. (Make sure you mix it thoroughly in one container then when finished mixing pour into another container and mix again. I do this to ensure that I do not have any gel coat that has not been mixed properly as gel coat that has not cured correctly will spoil your mold) 5.Lay up with 2 layers of 15oz or heavier chopped strand fibreglass (cheap stuff) using polyester resign (again cheap stuff but very rigid, epoxy is very flexible in comparison and we want the mold rigid). The other advantage of polyester is it cures fast. Remember that if the polyester sets you have to grind of the surface to stick to it again as the surface will have a wax coating once cured. 6.If necessary I also may add to the outside timber framing to hold the mold true and to make even more rigid. Nothing worse than pulling a part from a mold only to find the mold was not sitting square and now your part has a slight twist. When fibre glassing timber to your mold with polyester you must wrap the timber with glass as polyester does not stick to wood very well or I quite often lay up tabs on the wood and after it has cured and then screw the tabs to the timber. 7.Trim the excess fibre glass off as the resin is just going off, when it gets hard enough to cut without delaminating the fibre glass. 8.Using water to dissolve the PVA I then remove the plug from the mold. 9.If there are any blemishes the gel coat can be sanded and polished or even patched (that's why we use gel coat as it easy repair). When laying up parts in a mold I only use gel coat if the part is not being painted Gel coat is heavy, very heavy. Else I lay up as follows: 1.Prepare the mold with wax and PVA as above. 2.Prepare your fibre glass and or carbon fibre. 3.Prepare any core matting or foam that will be sandwiched in the lay up. 4.Prepare your area and tools. I use fast hardener for fillers and the painting layer and then use slow hardener for doing the lay up. 5.If there are any tight bends or sharp inside corners I mix up some epoxy resin with filler (microbloons, Q-cels or simular) to as thick as possible a filler and radius the corners with filler and let cure till the filler is firm and dry to touch. This ensures I get good finish in the corners. (Quite often the cornes have air pockets in between the layers of glass in tight corners, which have to be ground out and filled after the job is done, and this eliminates them most of the time.) 6.Instead of get coat I mix up some epoxy resin with filler thin enough to paint on but thick enough not to run down the sides and paint the mold and let cure to very tacky, almost touch dry. Constant touching up may be required to stop big runs while it is curing. This coat is fairly thin and reduces (by an enormous amount) the pin holes in your finished product and also gives you a very smooth finish which requires only a light sand and painting. 7.Now we do our lay up and let cure. 8.Trim the excess fibre glass off as the resin is just going off, when it gets hard enough to cut without delaminating the fibre glass. 9.Using water to dissolve the PVA I then remove the part from the mold. This is how I have been doing it for years. I have tried other methods but come back to this, sometimes with a bit of fine tuning of my processes. Not saying it right or the only way, just it works for me. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of phillabaum...@aol.com Sent: Thursday, 30 October 2008 2:11 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Mold layup I picked up a cowling from Glenn in Biloxi to use to make a mold for mine.? I was wondering the lay up process.? I know wax three or four times then spray on release agent I have some PVA (I think if its not old).? Questions are: How many layers of cloth to make the mold? and how many layers to use on the final cowling? Of course I have 5.85oz KR glass and epoxy.? I really appreciate the use of the cowling and would like to return it as soon a possible.? I put it on my plane for fit check. Boy did it fire me up to finish the thing. Steve Philla
KR> another building marathon
-Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of John Gotschall Sent: Monday, 27 October 2008 2:46 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> another building marathon .. I have not weighed it yet but seems nose heavy That is typical with the standard retracts (or at least it was in my case). When the wings are fitted that puts a few more pounds on the tails and once you put your but in the cockpit it will have more than enough weight on the tail. While parked in the hangar I put an 8 kg sand bag on the turtle deck/tail joint to ensure it did not tip on it's nose. Then I replace the retracts and the problem went away as the new undercarriage had the wheels more forward.
KR> Collins radios
Sorry I don't have that info -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of P. Shows Sent: Friday, 17 October 2008 1:15 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Collins radios Thanks Barry, I have pinouts but I need more info on what indicators work and how to interconnect them, also operations of the radio, etc. IHS PShows Seminary, MS - Original Message - From: "Barry Kruyssen" To: "'KRnet'" Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:43 PM Subject: RE: KR> Collins radios Try http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/AMR-350.pdf ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Collins radios
Try http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/AMR-350.pdf Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of P. Shows Sent: Wednesday, 15 October 2008 1:25 PM To: KR List Subject: KR> Collins radios I have a collins 350, and 351 and need hook up information. Some one replied to me that they had this info back a couple of months ago and I can't find the note I wrote myself. Could you please contact me off net again. psh...@bayspringstel.net Thanks IHS PShows Seminary, MS ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Triaxle sees the Sun
I love the curves. That curved fuselage looks awesome. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Eric Pitts Sent: Sunday, 3 June 2007 11:52 AM To: KRNET Subject: KR> Triaxle sees the Sun Well the triaxle made it's way out of the garage for the first time today. Take a look at HTTP://eric.pitts.mystarband.net/indexk.html Eric Pitts Terre Haute, Indiana KR2S eric.pi...@starband.net ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> I like it.
54500 -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Ronald R.Eason Sent: Wednesday, 23 May 2007 8:09 AM To: Ron Jr. Eason; 'Jim Eason'; Joe Samland; Jim Nichols; larryea...@yahoo.com; Bob Omohundro; Bob Harris; Bill Clayton Cc: 'KRnet'; 'kirk hull'; John EAA Kramer Subject: KR> I like it. What score can you get? Ronald R. Eason Sr. President / CEO Ph: 816-468-4091 Fax: 816-468-5465 HYPERLINK "http://www.jrl-engineering.com"http://www.jrl-engineering.com Our Attitude Makes The Difference! _ From: Dick Lemons [mailto:d...@kcdawnpatrol.org] Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 9:52 AM To: 1Dick Lemons Subject: I like it. Glock Training game HYPERLINK "http://www.sizor.com/flash/binladen.htm"; \nhttp://www.sizor.com/flash/binladen.htm No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.6/814 - Release Date: 5/21/2007 2:01 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.6/814 - Release Date: 5/21/2007 2:01 PM
KR> Personality changes.
Your thought paterns are almost normal for a KR2 builder, you should have noticed the hot babe after you noticed the WV engine. :-) Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Darren Crompton Sent: Thursday, 17 May 2007 1:09 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Personality changes. Hopefully it's not just me. Having recently moved into the middle of suburbia and not wanting the building noise to upset my new neighbors, I noted those who had young children and then went around and let them know I was building and to expect some noise. Having had 3 children myself (not all by myself), I know that young children take afternoon naps and the last thing they need is the sound of very loud power tools waking them up. It was a good opportunity to introduce myself and they all really appreciated the fact that I gave them a thought. Turns out that one of my neighbors is a cabinet maker by trade and has offered me the use of his vast array of tools. Anyway, I down tools between 11 -2 on the weekends and I have a self imposed noise curfew of 6pm during the week. Right at this moment in time I have nothing to do but cut timber and scarf plywood which are noisy jobs. I get home from work just before 6pm so am getting no building done this week. Needless to say, I am going a little stir crazy. I still grab my cup of tea and head out to the garage just to spend some quality time with my KR. Having nothing to do, I went to bed at 9:30 last night for the first time since giving up my own afternoon nap when I was a child. The weekend can not come quickly enough! Whilst on the subject of the stability of my mind right now, is it normal to wake in the morning with KR thoughts pulsing through your mind and during the day do you get ideas on design changes for the KR because a curve in the road reminded you of the curve of the fuselage? How about noticing a VW with a hot engine but failing to notice the hot babe driving it. I know that the last thing on my mind before sleep tonight will be the KR and I will awake tomorrow, one day closer to the weekend. BRING ON THE WEEKEND!! -- Darren Crompton AUSTRALIA www.kr-2s.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Floats
I live on a lake and I've thought about it AND, the problems I see are. 1. the weight of the floats would be too much for a standard KR2, the MTOW would prohibit the floats being fitted. 2. being so short coupled (distance between wing and tail plane) the extra drag of the floats may cause handling issues, this is a very broad statement as I know nothing from an engineering point. 3. the horse power to get off the water is more. 4. the drag of the floats would limit top end speed (this should be the first problem :-). 5. it isn't designed for it, buy something else. The reason I have not bought a float plane is that I love the perfomance of my KR2. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of bobby burington Sent: Saturday, 5 May 2007 12:14 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Floats HI, I looked through about 500 entries and couldn't find any info on floats. Has anyone put floats on their KR, or does anyone have any information on floats for the KR-2 ?. Thanks Robert - Finding fabulous fares is fun. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> Control sticks
I have a stock KR2, I look at it is a comfortable single seater for long trips which I can take passengers for a short flight (no more than an hour). When I'm in it alone I have my flight bag on the passenger seat (with it's handle through the seat belt) and rest my elbow on it, just perfect and I can reach charts, etc, easily. I originally thought I would change from centre stick to dual between the legs sticks (because that is what was use too), but now I will leave my KR2 with a centre stick. Like Mike, I just rest my hand on my leg. The centre stick makes it easier to get in and out of than a dual stick setup. I can fly right or left handed as I can reach across my body with my left hand quite comfortably, have done so while selecting frequencies, sorting out the #&%&*^ GPS, writing running log, etc (wouldn't want to land that way :-). Other considerations are ease of build and weight, every gram/ounce counts. My 2 cents worth. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
KR> bad news
My heart goes out to you Phil. Glad you are all right. It takes true skill to walk away from a major incident. I know how you feel, having crashed my KR2 last May. Best thing I did was go flying the next weekend, took a check ride and then off in to the wide blue yonder. Mine should be ready to fly again an about 3 or so months. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of phil brookman Sent: Thursday, 29 March 2007 7:59 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> bad news well my fellow aviators approx 3 hrs ago i crashed g -boun and turned this lovelly little kr into matchwood doing a touch and go and at about 150 ft massive vibration fron prop and i can seea big chunk out am now lookig for a field diasapearing fast and i skip over one hedge brifly touch the wheels down and straight into the hedge going i feel way to fast i take the hedge out the engine is about 20 yds away and i am upside down and crawl out few briuses nothing major so far ambulances police helicoptor arrive o scene within mins cause unkown ar t the moment witnesses say they saw a black thing dr op off plane as engine missing one prop blade look as if something had hit it will try to find other blade tomorrow speculation on bird strike or prop failure or something hitting blade from some where keepp you posted phil brookman
KR> bad news
My heart goes out to you Phil. Glad you are all right. It takes true skill to walk away from a major incident. I know how you feel, having crashed my KR2 last May. Best thing I did was go flying the next weekend, took a check ride and then off in to the wide blue yonder. Mine should be ready to fly again an about 3 or so months. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of phil brookman Sent: Thursday, 29 March 2007 7:59 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> bad news well my fellow aviators approx 3 hrs ago i crashed g -boun and turned this lovelly little kr into matchwood doing a touch and go and at about 150 ft massive vibration fron prop and i can seea big chunk out am now lookig for a field diasapearing fast and i skip over one hedge brifly touch the wheels down and straight into the hedge going i feel way to fast i take the hedge out the engine is about 20 yds away and i am upside down and crawl out few briuses nothing major so far ambulances police helicoptor arrive o scene within mins cause unkown ar t the moment witnesses say they saw a black thing dr op off plane as engine missing one prop blade look as if something had hit it will try to find other blade tomorrow speculation on bird strike or prop failure or something hitting blade from some where keepp you posted phil brookman
KR> moto-glider
Look at the Whisper Motot Glider at http://www.whisperaircraft.com/ for an economical kit glider. I would have bought one except for one small detail, experimental aircraft cannot be used for training or taking paying passengers, and I want to do both so I bought an IS28M2 motor glider. Regards Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Mingear Sent: Monday, 19 March 2007 11:43 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> moto-glider The KR-1B uses longer wings but they cannot be used on a two place KR. The spar and wing attach fittings would have to be redesigned. I've done a lot of thinking about a "Xenos" type clone based on a KR-2S fuselage. It would be a lot of work, like a redesigned wing with glider like spar stubs that overlap and pin to a spar box in the fuselage and increasing the size (area) of the vertical stabilizer some. A Touring type of motorglider would be easiest to achieve by using a wing that's in the mid 30's, say 36 feet in span. If you left the horizontal stab alone, you would also probably need a new airfoil for the wing, one with a smaller pitching moment. The neat thing though is that once you were done and it was time to go soaring, you could simply adjust the L/D of your new motorglider with the throttle and you could have everything from a Duo Discus to a S 1-23 in performance. A wing like the Europa glider wing would mean a redesign of everything, may as well try and find a Europa kit and go at it, probably be easier, not that my "Touring Glider" concept would be "easy" to accomplish! lol! It certainly wouldn't be a KR anymore though! Denny ...
KR> moto-glider
Not sure what the price is now but the kit was about AU$35,000.00 plus shipping, motor, instruments and paint when I priced it about a year ago. Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dave Arbogast, CISSP Sent: Tuesday, 20 March 2007 9:11 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> moto-glider Looks intersting, but what's the price ? I down-loaded their "price sheet" with lots of empty space, but it wasn't clear -dave Barry Kruyssen wrote: >Look at the Whisper Motot Glider at http://www.whisperaircraft.com/ for >an economical kit glider. I would have bought one except for one small >detail, experimental aircraft cannot be used for training or taking >paying passengers, and I want to do both so I bought an IS28M2 motor glider. > >Regards >Regards > >Barry Kruyssen >k...@bigpond.com >http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm > > > >-Original Message- >From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On >Behalf Of Dennis Mingear >Sent: Monday, 19 March 2007 11:43 PM >To: KRnet >Subject: Re: KR> moto-glider > >The KR-1B uses longer wings but they cannot be used on a two place KR. > > The spar and wing attach fittings would have to be redesigned. > > I've done a lot of thinking about a "Xenos" type clone based on a >KR-2S fuselage. > > It would be a lot of work, like a redesigned wing with glider like >spar stubs that overlap and pin to a spar box in the fuselage and >increasing the size (area) of the vertical stabilizer some. > > A Touring type of motorglider would be easiest to achieve by using a >wing that's in the mid 30's, say 36 feet in span. If you left the >horizontal stab alone, you would also probably need a new airfoil for >the wing, one with a smaller pitching moment. The neat thing though is >that once you were done and it was time to go soaring, you could simply >adjust the L/D of your new motorglider with the throttle and you could >have everything from a Duo Discus to a S 1-23 in performance. > > A wing like the Europa glider wing would mean a redesign of >everything, may as well try and find a Europa kit and go at it, >probably be easier, not that my "Touring Glider" concept would be "easy" to accomplish! lol! > > It certainly wouldn't be a KR anymore though! > > Denny ...
KR> Western tour and Grand Canyon
Ron's Link was separated by spaces try http://silvairehair3.home.comcast.net/032007/ Awesome pictures Regards Barry -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Ronald Wright Sent: Thursday, 22 March 2007 4:47 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Western tour and Grand Canyon A fellow Luscombe owner sent this to our Yahoogroup. Thought you all might enjoy looking at his fabulous photos. Ron weekend in the Maule and I got some good pics of the Grand Canyon: http://silvairehair 3.home.comcast. net/032007/
KR> ICOM A-200?
Hi Mark Before you buy anything check out the XCom 760 at http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/ it's list of features is very impressive. I've had on for 2 years now an I'm very happy. I also have an ICOM A-200 in my motor glider which works very well but the Xcom has more features like dual frequence watch, built in intercom and can get external input from an Ipod, MP3 player or mobile phone. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Friday, 16 March 2007 10:13 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> ICOM A-200? Anybody heard anything good or bad about the ICOM A-200? I've finally become convinced that my Terra has a modulation problem (I can talk clearly for a hundred and fifty miles, but everybody complains about my radio when I'm within three miles of the airport), so I'm going to swap it out with something. Apparently this is a common problem with the TX-760D, and there is no cure for it on my particular revision (no pot to adjust). I thought about a 2.25" diameter Becker, but they're about a thousand bucks more than an A-200, and the A-200 would fill the hole now occupied by the dead TRT-250 transponder and the over-modulating Terra TX-760-D, which would keep me from having to build a new instrument panel. Anyway, anybody have any horror stories about the A-200?
KR> ICOM A-200? or XCom760
Not, they don't have a transponder as yet. (you had me going call it a XPNDR, I'm obviously not enough of a propeller head yet :-) Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Saturday, 17 March 2007 7:44 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: RE: KR> ICOM A-200? That is good to read as that is the one that I want to use. Do they have an XPNDR as well? See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics See you at the 2007 - KR Gathering There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying has begun. Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC ---Original Message--- Before you buy anything check out the XCom 760 at http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/ it's list of features is very impressive. I've had on for 2 years now an I'm very happy.
KR> VW conversion
Mark is right on the money here. I'll add that if you take your distributor to a shop that overhauls distributors and has a bench testing machine, they will be able to tell you how much vacuum and mechanical advance with how many degrees at what RPM. When building performance engines I would always get these numbers to ensure I got the spark when I wanted it. (Slightly off track here: Many high revving engines that run rough near top end is because the timing is wrong for the RPM they are pulling) -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mark Langford Sent: Monday, 5 March 2007 11:32 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> VW conversion Eric wrote: > Can some netters kindly explain why VW manuals give 7 deg BTDC and aero > conversions give 25 to 28 deg BTDC as the timing.?. How does one "tweak" > the VW to use 25 to 28 deg BTDC.?< The VW manuals give 7 degrees because their distributors have both a vacuum and a mechanical advance system (usually) that will eventually advance the timing to something like 28-30 degrees of TOTAL advance once the engine reaches a higher rpm. Using a regular timing light at idle, 7 degrees is where you'd set it. Aviation conversion engines use a variety of different ignition sytems, so the safe and only accurate way to describe timing is total advance that you'll get at normal operating RPM (say above 1800-2000 rpm). No matter what system you use, you need to make sure that the timing is reaching the max advance (I use about 32 degrees on VWs and Corvairs) when the engine is running at close to wide open throttle. This is done with a timing light. Obviously you need to have your pulley marked accurately. The most certain way to deal with it is mark the pulley at TDC and use an "advancing" timing light set to 28 degrees. Most people fiddle around with timing while they're trying to start the engine for the first time. Knowing how much advance the distributor has allows you to set it will almost perfect accuracy before you ever start the engine (called "static" timing"). Again, you need to have the pulley marked with the proper number of degrees, but for example, my Corvair needs to be set at 8 degrees BTDC because it has 24 degrees of centrifugal advance built in (for a total of 32 degrees BTDC at high speeds), so I set the engine at 8 degrees BTDC for number 1, then rotate the distributor past where I think it should fire, then turn on the ignition and slowly rotate the distributor until the points fire (this is with the cap off, you can both see and hear them spark). Lock it down, rotate the engine in the proper direction twice to make sure you have it right, and now you can forget about timing until after you have it started. Actually, I'm so confident that this works, that's how I set mine, period. I put 200 hours on the Corvair without checking it with a timing light. I finally figured I really ought to, just to make sure, and it was right on the money. I really hate standing behind a spinning prop at wide open throttle, and in some cases, you just can't do it. In those cases, statically setting the timing makes sense, but all efforts should be made to check it with a timing light before flying behind it (do as I say, not what I do...).
KR> location of controls on main spar
Leave the stick where it is, Run your pushrods or cables down to behind the rear spar and then out to the wing stub ends. Cables would be tight but pushrods would work OK. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Pete Klapp Sent: Friday, 9 March 2007 1:29 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> location of controls on main spar Netters Has anyone tried mounting their control stick on the forward side of the main spar? I plan on building fuel tanks in the stub wings as Mark Lnagford did. I'd like to avoid giving up space for aileron push-pull tubes and bellcrank that could be used to build larger tanks. Any thoughts would be helpful Pete Klapp, KR-2S Canton, Ohio _ Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month. Intro*Terms https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=10035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search =mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117 ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> PUSH-PULL CONTROL CABLES
Jabiru uses push-pull cables for the aileron. They are not as light on the controls but you get use to that. Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
KR> Poll - KRnet email list or new forum?
I'm with Virg on this one. -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of VIRGIL N SALISBURY Sent: Saturday, 10 February 2007 12:19 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> Poll - KRnet email list or new forum? I like what I have got. Not going online to vote, Virg
KR> fuel lines
Re-enforced rubber hoses are fine on suction side as won't collapse. The pressure side on most carburetted engines is normally only pressurised to a few PSI, at a maximum 7 PSI (hardly high pressure) and again rubber hose is fine. The main problem with rubber hose is that it burns. If you have an engine fire that is not fuelled by gasoline, you soon will when the rubber catches fire and burns through. There is a fire resistant covering that can be used to cover rubber fuel and oil hoses. I have rubber hoses with the fire resistant covering for my Jabiru installation. Regards Barry Kruyssen k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm Cairns, Australia -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of AVLEC Sent: Sunday, 11 February 2007 4:06 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> fuel lines Hi guys I recently took delivery of a 3300 Jabiru motor and a firewall forward kit for it to be installed in a whisper motor glider. Here is a factory supplied motor and fitment kit that has the entire fuel system plumbed with "rubber" fuel hose, barbed fittings and hose clamps. This is for the suction lines as well as for the pressurised part after the fuel pumps. Come to think of it, the 2.0L fuel injected hot hatch (VW GTI thrasher, sorry Mark I couldn't resist) that I used to have used rubber hose and hose clamps troughout the system except it had steel pipes under the car for obvious reasons. If this is accepted practise by Jabiru and even in high pressure auto fuel injection systems, why is it frowned upon in aviation? Regards Dene Collett KR2SRT builder South africa Whisper assembler See: www.whisperaircraft.com mailto: av...@telkomsa.net
KR> KRForum vs KRNet
I am with Dan on this and want to add; I would not be part of the KRForum as forums in general take up too much time to be part of. -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath Sent: Saturday, 3 February 2007 10:01 PM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> KRForum vs KRNet What I like about the KRForum: Pics can be posted There are some new people that did not post on the KRNet What I like about the KRNet: It keeps our family connected I don't have to log on to get there I can see if there is something to look at, anytime I walk by my room where the computer is, without even touching the computer I can ask a question and know that someone will see it right away and maybe even answer Every post is all in one place for me to scan through, which allows me to process all posts in a matter of minutes. I know that I have seen all the posts I don't have to go back and forth with a wait ( even on DSL ) between one post and another I don't have to wonder if I have seen that post before I can put the really good information into my KRArchive folder, on my computer, with a drag and drop But, the number one thing that I like about the KRNet, is the first one that I listed. It keeps our KRFamily, connected.
KR> Glider BRS Mis-Hap
Hi Larry, 171 mph is only 148 kts and many modern gliders have a VNE of that or more. Even some of the older ones come close, I flown a glider at 140 kts and it was 20 years old. Some of the gliders ar very slick ships. Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Larry&Sallie Flesner A glider going 171 mph HUMMM... I'll have to think about that one.
KR> Too Much Right Rudder Required.
Hi I'm in the process of rebuilding my KR2 after having crashed landed in a paddock last May and I want to improve how my KR2 handles. PROBLEM: During climb I have to use a lot of right rudder, during cruise a bit less right rudder but still some pressure is required. On decent the rudder load is neutral. Also in cruise and on decent I cannot get enough forward trim and 2 up I never have enough forward trim. POSSIBLE SOLUTION: Point the engine a degree or two right and a the same down. (FYI - Prop spins clock wise when sitting in the aircraft.) Comments, suggestions, any wild ideas, etc, etc Thanks and Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
KR> Too Much Right Rudder Required.
Thanks for all the comments. A few people mentioned my C of G, it is at the forward limit with me and a full load of fuel in the header tank. At MTOW less fuel, it only move back 5.46 inches (138.65mm). This has been weighed on certified scales by a LAME. When fitting up my 132.28lbs (60kg) Jabiru motor I had to move the engine a long way forward to get the C of G right, the engine mount is 17.32 inches (440mm) long. While fitting a trim tab is an option, I want to try to correct it a bit first by moving the engine as trim tabs produce drag. Thanks and Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
KR> What to do when the throttle cable in your KR2 snaps in mid air.
Good one Willie, a cool head and no problems, that's good to hear. My throttle is a simular setup, a spring pulls it to wide open and the cable is used to close it. Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Willie van der Walt Sent: Tuesday, 21 November 2006 7:30 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> What to do when the throttle cable in your KR2 snaps in mid air. What to do when the throttle cable in your KR2 snaps in mid air. Last week Thursday I was flying "Shrek" around Phalaborwa just for fun at 1000 vt AGL. When I returned to the airfield, I noticed my speed was sitting at 160mph and closed the throttle to slow down. Nothing happened. The engine was still running at full power I joined on downwind and started preparing myself for an emergency landing. I called on the radio for ground assistance in case things got out of hand. The throttle design is such that a spring opens the throttle and the lever in the cockpit is to pull the throttle closed. In a way it is better than the push rod idea but anyhow. I planed to turn the magnetos off on a glide slope that I knew would take me to the runway without power. As it is, the KR picks up speed even with power off if the glide is not flat enough. The fire department was getting ready as I went around a couple of times at flat speed. During my last go around I pulled the cable housing out of the lever box (with my one hand) and managed to remove the metal cap over the cable housing end. This exposed 4mm of the cable tip. I clamped the 1.7mm cable between my thumb and forefinger and pulled the inner out. The power came down and I could use the accelerator like that. Now on finals I realized that at some stage I will need my left hand to apply brakes and cut the engine. So on short finals I let go of the cable, the revs shot up but before much happened I cut the engine at the magnetos. A perfect dead stick landing followed and pushed the plane back to the hanger. There are few things to learn from this. 1.. Don't panic and make hasty decisions. Take your time and plan your crash ( it may not be one) 2.. Practice engine off approaches so you get to know your aircraft and glide ratios 3.. Carry enough fuel so you can use it if you need to stay in the air longer than planed. 4.. Wear brown pants.
KR> Propeller Design
Hi All I found this Excel spread sheet that may shed some light on propeller design http://www.eaa.org/benefits/sportaviation/S407-PropDesign.xls Any comments? Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
KR> "Shreg" went off the end of the runway
Hi Willie With regards to the belly board. I retro fitted a belly board and in my case all it does is help slow me down on finals and steapen the approach angle (giving a better view over the nose). Once I round out it appears to enhance the ground effect and I float further. I think the board deflects the airflow down onto the strip. My ground roll distance has not changed, nor the distance I finish from the runway "numbers". My belly board does not have any holes in it, maybe I need some, just a thought. In my opinon I would not retor fit a belly board again, a lot of work and weight for minimal gain. Get the numbers right and it will all be easy (as Mark Langord said). Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Willie van der Walt Sent: Tuesday, 7 November 2006 4:16 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> "Shreg" went off the end of the runway Today was the 4th flight with "shreg" and it ended in the felt on the extended runway. I came in on finals and did a side slip in a 75 degree X-wind. The speed was down to 90 mph when I crossed the fence and I was about 1m above the runway over the numbers. I was hoping to loose the extra 10 mph but no way. The throttle was closed at idle about 1000 rpm but the plane kept on floating. I then put the wheels onto the runway and held it firmly on the ground. The speed was indicating 60 while running with the tail up. There was still about 600m of runway left. I pulled back slightly to apply brakes but then the wheels hardly touched the ground and I could feel The KR wanted to get airborne again. At 40mph I could pull back on the stick and apply enough brakes to almost lift the tail. I had no direct forward visibility over the nose and was shocked to see the loop entrance, at the holding point, coming past at about 20mph. I went off the tar into the long grass and almost flipped over as the grass grabbed the wheels, spats and wings all at the same time. This was a quick stop. Even the engine stopped. Hennie repaired the prop well because the tips held up well against the grass. Only some marks on the red tip paint. I pushed the plane back to the hanger and left it there for the night as I had enough excitement for one day. In summery. I need to get the speed down to 80 over the fence or go around and try again if I am still above over the numbers. Wish I could fit airbrakes like we had on the gliders when I sailed at Donaldson Dam. If I can not get landings right within the next 3 or 4 times I am going to fit a belly plate brake or something. What can I do to loose the lift after round out? Regards Willie www.riversafaris.co.za touri...@intekom.co.za
KR> Flox
Filling with flox is fine. Make up a test piece simular to your job and test it to destruction. I broke of my wing tip off and had to spliced the last 15" of the main spare to repair it. Working on the wing was a little awkward and left me with some gaps, so I used flox in the gaps. With each batch of glue used to repair the spar I also made a test piece which was later tested to destruction. Each test piece failed on the wood, the glue joints were stronger than the spruce. This proved my technic was sound and that each batch of glue was mixed correctly. regardsBarry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+kr2=bigpond@mylist.net] On Behalf Of jg7...@mindspring.com Sent: Saturday, 28 October 2006 7:31 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Flox I had to replace the bottom piece of 3x5/8 spruce on my firewall and the fit isn't exactly what I would like. My question is could I use flox to fill in the small gaps in the wood? Maybe I am being to much of a perfectionist but I have been trying to get 99% contact on the wood.
KR> finish work
Best trick, is simple and it still works ... Even today :-) -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Mike johnson Sent: Sunday, 29 October 2006 11:22 AM To: krnet Subject: Fw: KR> finish work Hey, One thing that works very well with finish work is to make a series of light hash marks with a pencil. Just create "x" patterns at 45 deg. to the direction of sanding. The pencil marks stay on all the low spots. It works best as one of the last steps in the finishing process. I have found a hard pencil works best. This is a very old auto body trick taught to me twenty some years ago. I have yet to do any finish work on a KR2 but I would imagine it would work just as well. Mike Johnson - Forwarded Message From: Don Chisholm To: KRnet Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 7:05:07 PM Subject: Re: KR> finish work that also works if you mist black over your high build primer coat and will show high spots and low spots by what you sand off bearlk...@aol.com wrote: from "finishing a composite airplane" "I strongly recommend spraying a light coat of black primer, before you start filling, Even thou this step is not absolutely necessary it is very helpful in guiding where to direct more sanding and when to change to finer sandpaper grade. The filler becomes translucent as it gets thinner and the black color starts showing through as dark spots indicating you are getting close to the skin surface."" I mix blue pthalate dye with my filler for the same reason. I question the idea of having primer in the middle of layers of epoxy. Probably very minor. Bob P. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> boatless fuselage?
If I live close to you I would even help!!! I like the idear Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
KR> What RPM should I get?
Hi guys Here is a link to a spreadsheet that may help you (or confuse you) http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/Doco/Prop_Pitch_Calulation.xls It has prop tip speed calculations and cruise speeds, in theory Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Willie van der Walt Sent: Sunday, 15 October 2006 9:51 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> What RPM should I get? Hi Phil If I understand the link below correct I should not run a 52" prop faster than 3552 rpm on take off or any other time. I assumed Mach 1 to be 331 m/s Calcs show your max speed would be 131 mph and RPM 3300 Regards Willie
KR> Bad day at the airport
Hi Bill, Sorry to hear about your damage. What engine do you have and what RPM were you doing? In general the prop flange should be checked for run out and the crank should be magna-fluxed. Re the wing. I would inspect the attachment fittings looking for any movement type hair line cracks, I snapped 14in off the end of my wing and can find no hair line cracks at WAF's. The wing is repairable, you may need to cut a hole (or several holes) in the bottom of the wing to inspect the wing skin to spar joint to ensure there is no separation. It is all reparable, Just look at my accident and I'm repairning it, though very slowly. Photo's are at the end http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/Doco/INCIDENT-RAAus.doc Regards Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of countryhomeprint Sent: Thursday, 19 October 2006 11:19 AM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Bad day at the airport KRnetters Today was a bad day at the Starkville, MS airport. 1st, a experimental R & D Sparrow sailplane from the Raspet Flight Research Lab at Mississippi State University was in a maneuver test today at 6,000 feet when it disintergrated. Both wings tore from the fuselage along with hunks of the fuselage. The pilot fired the BRS. After chute deployment he exited the craft with his personal chute. After a free-fall of several hundered feet he pulled the rip-cord only to have a tangled chute. After about 2,000 ft. fall his chute became untangled and he landed near the hospital. He walked out of the woods and caught a ride back to the airport. The fuselage landed in the back yard of a home in a residential district. Wings and other parts landed in other yards. No one was injured. Caused a lot of excitment in Starkville as many residents observed the entire happening. 2nd. Slight accident in my KR. While taxing to 36 late this evening the right wing tip inpacted a truck parked on the taxiway. The truck had no flashing lights, was grey in color and was in a blind spot (tail dragger you know). While zig-zagging the person who owned the truck was on the opposite side of the taxiway and was a distraction. The KR spun around and impacted the trucks left front fender. Damage was done to the wing tip, the position lights and strobe were torn away and the engine sustained a sudden prop stoppage. Damage was done to the prop tip, and the spinner hub. The impact was great enough to cave in the front right fender of the truck. His insurance will cover the damage. Question? Should the engine be torn down, inspected and rebuilt. Should the engine be replaced as I may not be mentally satisified without a new engine. For you people who have experience with this, what should I do? I feel that I should remove the wing and inspect the attachment fittings. The damage was done to the very tip with torn fiberglass and tip separation (Dan Deihl wing skins) It is fixable. Bill Page boliverp...@bellsouth.net
KR> Printing PDF documents
Hi I have the raf48 pdf templates (thanks Mark L) and want to print then out on a normal A4 printer and glue them together. Does anyone know of some software that would do this for me. Thanks Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia k...@bigpond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm
