KR> light sport vs. experimental
On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 12:11 PM, LG McCawwrote: The only question I've never really had a satisfactory answer for is - IF I receive and E-AB certificate with stated limits falling within the LSA category, (making it sport eligible) and later re-prop or restate the max RPM or whatever, is it possible to reestablish the operating limits - the certificate never changes it's always E-AB. The E-AB doesn't change, but the Sport Pilot eligibility does. One of the requirements for a plane to be eligible for a Sport Pilot to use is that it "always has met" the requirements. So, if you set, for example, a 2500 rpm limit in the operational limits to meet the standards, then later changed the operational limits to 3300 rpm to get more performance, which then put you outside the performance limitations, even if you change the operational limits back, that aircraft can never again be eligible for Sport Pilot use. -- Regards, RonB
KR> I Need Some Advice From Flying KR'ers
On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 2:09 AM, Mark Langfordwrote: > But what I was fishing for is how those same questions are answered with > respect to LSA, > since that seems to be important to him. > There are many different flavors of LSA compared to Experimental-Amateur Built. Experimental is 51% or greater amateur built. The "builder of record" can get the repairman's certificate for that aircraft and do the annuals. Any owner can do any work on the aircraft, but only the holder of the repairman's certificate can do the annuals. LSA as a class includes a wide variety of completeness levels, from plans built on up through fully completed aircraft. It is only for these more fully completed aircraft that there are special LSA repairman's certificates. In the KR/LSA subgroup, these would only be plans built, so the aircraft would be licensed as Experimental-Amateur Built. During testing, the aircraft needs to be shown that it meets the performance qualifications (limitations) of the LSA class (<=138 mph maximum speed, <51 mph stall speed at gross weight and most critical c.o.g.). At the moment, there are no proven KR variants that meet all those requirements, so a KR/LSA is uncharted territory. Since even Vans had to do some tweaking/modification to their LSA candidate, it would probably be a good idea to have someone with a private pilot's license do the testing. If you want to build your plane and do the initial test flying as a Light Sport pilot, you would probably be better off with a proven LSA plane combination. -- Regards, RonB
KR> KR1 Plans specified width?
Outside, top, widest point: 23" Firewall, top: 18" On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 10:51 PM, dustin Reveswrote: > > What is the standard width of the KR-1? > -- Regards, RonB
KR> KR-1 Plans Available ? Where ? How Much? other Terms ?
The KR-1 plans are available from Rand Robinson. They are $65. Delivery runs from 3-8 weeks, depending on a variety of factors. The plans are as complete and accurate as they have ever been. They are more complete and accurate than the original versions, as they come with many revisions that have been incorporated over the years. They are not, and probably never will be, as complete as the later 2 and 2S plans, hence the difference in price. On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 9:55 AM, Scott Perkins <2sc...@bellsouth.net> wrote: > The question I have not seen answered is whether the KR-1 plans > are available from the RAND company and if so how much and how long > does it take and what kind of condition are they in. IE such as > complete, hi quality, accurate etc. > Scott > >-- Regards, RonB
KR> OT: Bit and brace?
Lehman's Hardware in Kidron, Ohio has all kinds of non-power tools and appliances. http://www.lehmans.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=6072=PRODUCT=1=brace or http://tinyurl.com/2gejfx I still have the one from my dad in my toolbox. It's probably older than I am. On 6/2/07, David Liningerwrote: > Anyone have a good source for an old-fashioned bit and brace? Dad had > one years ago, but when they moved to the retirement home he sold a lot > of his stuff, and I think that must have gone then. -- Regards, RonB
KR> Spruce vs Douglas Fir
On 3/15/07, Darren Cromptonwrote: > I am ready to order my timber and being on a very tight budget, I am > seriously considering douglas fir as an alternative to spruce. On http://krnet.org/ there is a link to the old paper KR newsletters, downloadable in pdf. Many years ago a gentleman documented just such a substitution, along with a test jig to make sure your wood matched your calculations. -- Regards, RonB
KR> Aircraft modeling software
I'm not sure how many of you engineer types are already aware of this, but... We use Matlab (a computer mathematical analysis program) at work for some of the products we sell, and I am a little bit familiar with it due to having to provide support for these products. Because I am the technical contact for our company with regards to Matlab I receive their newsletters. These newsletters often have interesting bits of news in them related to aerospace. A few months ago there was an article about the design, construction, and testing of a new civilian tilt-rotor aircraft targeted at the offshore oil platform market. This month's article concerns a new toolbox they offer that is specifically for "flight vehicle design", specifically the flight characteristics of a new light airplane. The article also links to a published US Air Force data compendium tool. http://www.mathworks.com/company/newsletters/digest/2007/jan/flightsim.html?s_cid=MLD0107na2TA2_v1=42005|1-E28H5 http://www.va.afrl.af.mil/org/VAC/VACA/vaca_index.html This is all well over my head, but I think at least a few of you guys here are working at this level, and I am offering it for your interest if you are not already aware of it. If nobody is interested in this, I won't hear any more about it and won't bother sending any more updates on this topic. -- Regards, RonB
KR> 45 degrees VS. lengthwise
On 1/3/07, bdazzca...@aol.comwrote: > > I was just curious what would happen if you were to fiberglass a foam > fuselage lengthwise instead of 45? If you use regular bi-directional weave cloth, run at 45 degrees to whatever, both length and width stresses have to cross every fiber. When the cloth is laid "normal", however, length and width stresses only have to cross half the fibers. Whether this is a problem in any given location depends on the stresses involved; sometimes a light cloth is used more as a cover than as a strength member. -- Regards, RonB
KR> Solid wings
On 9/20/06, Allen Wiesnerwrote: > Well, how about L/R wing panels joined at the centerline and with the > dihedral built into the joint? The problem with that is, as the center section is reduced, the outer sections have to be made larger to provide the same wing area. For example, on the KR2S: wing center section 30 sf outer wings 52 sf 63% of plane's weight supported on waf's change center section to 36" span (round numbers to match fuselage) wing center section 12 sf outer wings 70 sf 85% of plane's weight now supported on waf's This doesn't mean that it _can't_ be done, just that there are now larger forces on the WAF's and the wood they attach to, and you must re-do all the engineering and calculations to make sure things will still work. A possible exception would be to put the KR2-S outer wings on the reduced center section of a KR-1. This would give you very close to the original wing area of the KR-1, and less stress on the WAF's due to the lower gross weight. -- Regards, RonB
Re: Réf. : Re: KR> Delrin versus Nylon
> Can you tell us some more about this material, what type of plastic, > density, where do you get it and what cost compared to other plastics. www.mcmaster.com has a huge variety of supplies and so is good for comparison. You will often find items less expensive elsewhere, but their customer service is hard to beat. They have acetal (generic name) and Delrin, as well as Nylon and lubricant-filled variants of each. For comparison, 12"x12"x1/2" pieces of each: Nylon (white) $29 MDS-filled Nylon (black)$33 acetal (black)$37 Delrin (black)$39 oil-filled Nylon (green) $40 PTFE-filled Delrin (black) $183 The tensile strength of Nylon makes the swarf into basically monofilament, which makes it a real pain. -- Regards, RonB
KR> Brake suggestions?
On 7/28/06, D F Livelywrote: > I am inthe process of installing bthe Great Plains system and their calipers > > have a piston on one side but pads on both. This is very common, both in autos and motorcycles. You just have to make sure the slider mechanism works freely, or that will cause problems. Higher-end systems more often use pistons on both sides of the disk. > The creativity comes into play with the toe prkes. Sorry, but I don't have a clue what those are ;-) -- Regards, RonB
KR> Re> Joe Flechtner's Anchorage to Oshkosh Trip
On 7/26/06, Rick Humanwrote: > I believe the articles you are referring to describe Fred Keller's > experiences rather than Joe Flechtner's - Fred's adventures were written up > in Sport Aviation and can be found on Don Reid's website. You mean this one? http://aerofoilengineering.com/KR/sportaviation/Kr74-1.HTM -- Regards, RonB
KR> 18% airfoil?
At 10:41 AM 5/9/06, you wrote: >I want to hot wire the 18% tapering to 15% but only four feet at a time. >how do i come up with the middle airfoil? An airfoil modeling program will help you do this. Profili is one written by a guy in Italy. Cost is 15 Euro. www.profili2.com/eng/ If you enter the root and tip airfoil, and the distance from root, it can give you accurate templates for any position in between. Regards, RonB
KR> CAD Software
At 10:50 PM 5/1/06, you wrote: >KR Netters (especially you CAD guys): > >This question is a two-parter: 1) What CAD software do you use and, 2) What >would you recommend for a new CAD user / KR builder? I've used TurboCAD as a hobbyist since version 1.2, and still can't get my head around the (newer) 3D part of it. As a beginner, it (or any other full-featured CAD program) is _not_ intuitive. For 2D, there was a version of V4 that was made available free as "TurboCAD Learning Edition". It is no longer available from IMSI, but there are still a few copies squirrelled away on various persons web sites. Also, copies of newer versions are available cheap on ebay. Another CAD program that is simple to use is DeltaCAD, billed as "World's easiest CAD Program" for $40: http://www.deltacad.com/ There is a free time-limited demo that you can download to try out. Regards, RonB
KR> LSA KR
At 07:30 AM 5/2/06, you wrote: >Hello all, > >Is anyone out there in KR land considering (or now building) a KR2 >that would meet the qualifications for LSA certification? I made a >search of the archives but there didn't seem to be a lot there as >far as LSA and KRs go. After today's spate of LSA discussion, I put together a quick spreadsheet to calculate various performance parameters based on the discussion and formulae on this page: http://zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-8.html The straight Excel version is at: http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/KR/Stall_speed_&_performance_calculator.xls If you (or your isp) have problems with spreadsheets, the same file compressed with WinZip is at: http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/KR/sspc.zip I have entered CLmax from the stated sources for the two wings under discussion, but you can change that for other wings if desired. Constructive criticism welcome. And remember, it's worth what you paid for it (or maybe less ;-) ) I have NOT personally confirmed ANY of the data or formula in the spreadsheet, so use it at your own risk. Top speed can be easily artificially limited by placarding a reduced max continuous rpm. Stall speed is the hard part. LSA requires the maximum stall speed to occur at gross, without the use of "lift enhancing devices", ie flaps. Wing area and weight play a big part, but Cl even more so. Good hard data seems a bit hard to come by, especially at the lower Reynolds numbers a KR flies at near stall. An interesting page of airfoil information is here: http://www.oriontechnologies.net/Documents/Airfoil.htm I personally have settled (for now, anyway) on a KR1 with 72 sf of 23015 tapered to 23012. With an estimated Cl of 1.6, that gives me a stall of 50.4 at a gross of 750. The spars and attachment of the KR2 are the same section, just longer, so it should be well within limitations without re-engineering. For a KR2S and the new airfoil, the numbers get so far out of hand that the spars and attach fittings would need to be completely re-engineered. At a gross of 980, with Cl of 1.28, you need 111 sf to get a stall of 52. Regards, RonB "expert riders use expert judgement to avoid using expert skills" Phill Ross
KR> LSA KR
Sorry, didn't mean that last post to go to the list :-( Regards, RonB
KR> LSA KR
At 03:56 PM 5/2/06, VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote: > How about the KR-1b, Virg Ran the numbers, 45hp stock 1600, 800lb, 91sf, Airfoil is funny; center is RAF48 (CL 1.42), outer wings start as GAW(2) (CL 2.04) tapering to GAW(1) at tip (CL 1.8). Rough average CL of 1.76 Stall 44Top speed 130 Specs from Nov 79 newsletter: Length 12'10" Span27' Empty 484 Gross 800 Engine VW1834 Cruise 125@3200rpm Stall 38 power off Stall 45 w/spoilers Glide 21.12:1 Maybe not good enough to qualify as a "real" motorglider, but perfect for LSA. Regards, RonB
KR> alternative woods (doug fir, etc.)
Remeber the newsletters? Used to come in the mail, printed on paper? Back in March 1977, issue #21, page 2 had a short article on a builder using douglas fir on his KR, and how he tested and documented the substitution. The recommendation was to use 19/32" instead of the full 5/8". This gave parts slightly stronger than sitka spruce, and only slightly heavier. A very large (for dialup, anyway) FAA document talks about wood specifications for airplane use. Reading and understanding this can help you make more informed choices regarding wood substitution. http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2001.pdf or http://tinyurl.com/6m3aj One main specification is grain slope (no greater than 15:1). Most lumberyard wood is flat sawn (cross grain more or less parallel to flat side of board). Not a problem for us with stringers, as we can rip the strips and then turn them 90 degrees. 1x6 fir in the lumberyard is about 1.5x the price of 5/8x5/8 spruce at Aircraft Spruce. If you can get two out of a board you'll come out ahead ;-) More work, less money. Your choice. But please, make an informed decision. Regards, RonB
KR> alternative woods (doug fir, etc.)
At 11:06 PM 3/27/06, D F Lively wrote: >Carefull selection is required here and probably only premium clear >grade is all that should be used. Definitely. However, if you are willing to put up with the waste and extra work, you can get a significant amount of premium wood from selected pieces of non-premium stock. >The grain is the way is because it is >slab cut so only the board cut from the center of the log will have >grain oriented correctly. To undstand how 1/4 sawn is cut look at the >end of a log and envision the center of wide direction of the board >being cut passes thru the center of the log. You can see that this will >lower the yield of the log greatly , adding to the cost. For the few "boards" in a KR, this is very much true. For a large portion of the wood in a KR, however, we need "square strips". If you cut a flat sawn board into strips, and turn them 90 degrees, viola! you now have quarter sawn strips. For a rough example, please see the following illustration: http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/KR/quarter-sawn-from-plain.gif Straight is still very much necessary, any knots must be cut out and discarded, and you must carefully choose the boards you are going to use to get close grain. You want at least 10 rings per inch looking at the end of the board; more is better. I have seen old-growth fir with over 100 rings showing at the end of the board (4"). >If you go into your average "Big Box" lumber souce and ask for 1/4 >sawn you will >most likely be met with a "Dumb Stare", I thought that was a patented feature of those stores? ;-) Regards, RonB
KR> Retro-fitting Wing Tanks
At 12:34 AM 3/10/06, D F Lively wrote: >I am taking over a KR2 project ... >I intend to do all that I can to get it under sport-plane limits ... Keep in mind that LSA requires the 52 mph max stall speed clean, and at gross weight. This means that you can _have_ flaps, but you cannot use them to arrive at your stall speed limitation. For stall speed calculations, you need weight (gross in the case of Light Sport), wing area, and coefficient of lift. For anyone playing with this idea, there is some good information here: http://zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-8.html Down near the bottom of the page are formula for estimating speed and stall. You need CLmax for the stall estimate; according to http://www.krnet.org/as504x/design.html the CLmax for the AS5045/8 wings is 1.28 clean. According to http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/kraf48.html the RAF48 has a CLMax of 1.42 without flaps at 18 degree AOA, so for this purpose it might be more suitable. Playing with this info, it looks like a 700 pound gross, with 78 sf wing area, and the RAF48, would give you a stall of 50 mph. Another way to look at it, with the RAF48, you can have a maximum wing loading of 9.468 lb/sf. With the AS5045/8, you need a max of 8.873 lb/sf. Top speed is a lot easier to do during the test phase; just decrease the maximum continuous rpm limitation to give you the desired top speed (138 mph). Bear in mind that all the above is just desktop theorizing based on the published limitations of the Sport Pilot rule. Or, as the British say, wanking ;-) Regards, RonB
KR> Performance Calculator spreadsheet
After today's spate of LSA discussion, I put together a quick spreadsheet to calculate various performance parameters based on the discussion and formulae on this page: http://zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-8.html The straight Excel version is at: http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/KR/Stall_speed_&_performance_calculator.xls If you (or your isp) have problems with spreadsheets, the same file compressed with WinZip is at: http://home.mebtel.net/~rbutterfield/KR/sspc.zip I have entered CLmax from the stated sources for the two wings under discussion, but you can change that for other wings if desired. Constructive criticism welcome. And remember, it's worth what you paid for it (or maybe less ;-) ) I have NOT personally confirmed ANY of the data or formula in the spreadsheet, so use it at your own risk. Regards, RonB
KR> CAD wing template
At 10:04 PM 2/28/06, Steve Glover wrote: >Not for the AS5048 - AS5046... From Mark's site: The actual coordinates of all three airfoils are at this page: http://www.krnet.org/as504x/as504x.html What these do not give you are the spar locations, sizes, and tail feathers. Those are on the template: http://www.krnet.org/as504x/templates.html Regards, RonB
KR> cad file turtledeck
At 07:50 AM 1/24/06, you wrote: >Would anyone have a cad file of the front end of the aft turtledeck >profile to suit a dragonfly or rand robinson kr2s canopy, any form >of drawing file in autocad/turbocad/microstation etc, or even just >some measurements would do, I have the height and width from the >plans, just a radius that works for the corners would probably do. Mark Lougheed has the files, but the links don't work: http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/skipper/388/dflycanopysurvey/ Regards, RonB
KR> kr2 sport pilot
At 06:04 PM 1/5/06, JAMES C FERRIS wrote: >I have looked at this also, and on the list of performance of the flying >KR-2's started by Orma about half of them have performance in the sport >aircraft rules, I suspect these numbers are either light, or with flaps, or both. LSA requires stall at gross, clean. >however it would be better if we redesigned the aircraft >to fit the rules and called it something else only useding the Ken Rand >construction techniques. I am building a KR-2S but may lose my medical in >the near future, that's why I was looking to increase the wing area and >span to improve the stall and climb speeds. For anyone playing with this idea, there is some good information here: http://zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-86-8.html Down near the bottom of the page are formula for estimating speed and stall. You need CLmax for the stall estimate; according to http://www.krnet.org/as504x/design.html the CLmax for the AS5045/8 wings is 1.28 clean. Keep in mind that LSA requires the 52 mph max stall speed clean, and at gross weight. Playing with this info, it looks like you would need to be at KR1 max gross weight (or a bit less), and KR2S wing area (or a bit more), to even come close to LSA specifications. That is still do-able, though, if you are willing to have a single-place, VW powered, KR2S. Regards, RonB
KR> Fiberglass laying
At 10:13 AM 1/5/06, Serge VIDAL wrote: >he showed me rolls of rigid plastic sheets (looking like old overhead >projector slides). He said that's what his customers use when they want >the cured surfaces to be smooth. > >That puzzles me. How come we don't do that? Is it because they fear >trapped bubbles less than we do, or what? This is done when you want an extremely smooth surface, and are not that concerned about weight. Rather than remove excess epoxy (like peel ply) the rigid plastic sheets bridge the humps of the weave and encourage the epoxy to completely fill them. It gives a very smooth surface, with very little extra work, but there are lighter things than epoxy to fill the weave with. Regards, RonB
KR> Landing gear (mains)
At 11:33 PM 12/14/05, Ron Smith wrote: >Has anyone ever made fiberglass mains for the Kr with a similar >construction to the Grove gear? Harold Woods used the fiberglass leaf springs from a Chevy Astro van. I'll forward his message to you off list. Regards, RonB
KR> Nuts and bolts
At 04:18 AM 12/7/05, Serge wrote: >Obviously, to order that, I needed to identify the screw size correctly >(remember, I live in Europe, so non-Metric things must be ordered from the >US by mail order, and the order must be right first time, otherwise...I'm >screwed!). One resource for technical details for US screws (mostly not _Aircraft_ screws) is http://www.mcmaster.com/ If you do a search for "screws", the first item to come up will be the selection list, with an astonishing array of types. Once you get down to a specific type, the catalog pages will usually have technical details for them. For an example of mind-numbing detail, here is what comes up for a drilled fillister head machine screw, 8/32: Part Number: 90350A265 $12.38 per Pack of 10 FED Specification Fed. Spec. FF-S-92 MIL Specification MIL 35275 Head Style Drilled Fillister Material Type Stainless Steel Finish Plain Stainless Steel Type18-8 Stainless Steel MIL 35275 Dash #243 Drive Style Slotted System of Measurement Inch Thread Size #8-32 Length 3/8" Decimal Size.164" Head Diameter .270" Head Height .156" Hole Size .048" Thread Point Style Machine Specifications Met Federal Specifications (FED) and Military Specifications (MIL) Rockwell Hardness B85-B95 Minimum Tensile Strength80,000 psi along with a technical drawing. Regards, RonB
KR> Primer
At 02:09 PM 11/29/05, Ron Freiberger wrote: >What ever happened to the pull-out-to -fill-push-in -to-squirt idea..?. >Works well, easy to use, and simple. Put one line to each side at the >top, use a .016 diameter orifice. The fuel lines don't _have_ to run into the cockpit to do this. It would be fairly simple to run a cable or small rod from the panel to the firewall, thus having the pushbutton on the panel but the fuel on the other side of the firewall. Of course, it does increase parts count. ;-) Think about mode of failure too. If the primer doesn't squirt fuel when it's supposed to, what happens? The engine doesn't start and you sit there on the ground trying to figure out why. On the other hand, if the primer squirts fuel when it's _not_ supposed to, what happens? In my opinion, there are a lot more bad possibilities with this option. Just another opinion to add to the pile ;-) Regards, RonB
KR> Covering material
At 10:32 AM 10/16/05, Don wrote: >I'm an automotive upholsterer by trade and if you don't mind my >2 cents worth my favorite material to use especially for canopy covers >is a material called Odyssey Soft Touch manufactured by MarChem Coated >Fabrics.Inc.. What it is is a light weight coated polyester that is waterproof >and breathable and has a synthetic felt backing so it's not prone to chaffing >plexi or paint and has a 5 year manufacturers guarantee. I'm sure there are probably many places to get this, but here is one: www.sailrite.com If you download their pdf catalog, it is on page 72. $18.50/yd (5' wide) Regards, RonB
KR> Covering material
At 05:15 PM 10/18/05, Don wrote: >I don't know if Ron is An upholsterer /Canvass guy I'm not. I've got a local friend who is also a self employed upholstere , however. My personal feeling is that it would be better to order something like this from someone who actually uses it themselves. In this kind of work, there are all kinds of details that can cause something to work either well or poorly. On the other hand, many of us would rather do something ourselves than pay for 20 hours of someone else's labor, which is why I posted the link to the material. Regards, RonB
KR> Re: Xpndr cable (Do not archive)
I have a stash of RG58AU (stranded center conductor, tinned wires) that is no longer needed. If you guys want some, I can cut off 12 feet and mail it to you for $2 just to cover postage. Email me off list if interested. Regards, RonB
KR> rivnut question
At 10:26 AM 4/22/05, Mark L wrote: >The project I just finished up (at work) required several hundred knurled >rivnuts (which are less likely to spin), so we >learned a lot about them in the fabrication process. ... The problem >with that is if you don't get it tight enough, the rivnut just spins, and >you can't tighten up the bolt. If you squeeze it too tight, the threads >get scrunched up and distort, and the >bolt binds and the rivnut spins. You'd think after several hundred, you >could get the feel of it, or get it adjusted correctly, but it never >happened... I'm really surprised at this, as it runs opposite to my experience over the last dozen or so years. Here's the tool I've been using: http://home.earthlink.net/~ronb_4/images/rivnut_tool.jpg It is the Nutsert brand; notice the knurled base of the mandrel to keep the nutsert from spinning in the hole (this is a 4mm tool). Here's a picture of the actual nutsert: http://home.earthlink.net/~ronb_4/images/rivnut.jpg (this is a 5mm insert). I've been purchasing my replacements from McMaster too. Here are some possibilities for our different experiences: I've generally been using small-ish sizes (M3-M6) I've also been using them in relatively thick materials (1/16" min) There are recommendations for different size holes for different material thicknesses: http://home.earthlink.net/~ronb_4/images/rivnut_sizes.jpg Regards, RonB
KR> Canopy questions. Plastic lay ups
At 07:12 PM 1/18/05, you wrote: >I have been to the Two largest building supplies in Australia. and they do >not know what 3 mil thick builders Plastic is. They all say It CAN NOT BE 3 >mil (mm) thick. Ahh! The dreaded English/Metric wars strike again. ;-) Over here (USA) plastic is commonly sold by it's thickness in thousandths of an inch. So, 4 mill plastic sheet here would be sold there as 100 microns 3 mill would be 75 microns, etc. Regards, RonB
KR> Project update
At 03:42 PM 12/5/04, Ron Smith wrote: >I have constructed the bottom of the fuselage to conform to the shape of >the AS5048 airfoil. I would be really interested to see this. I played with the idea for a bit, but didn't like the way it looked (at least with what I came up with). Regards, RonB
KR> LSA rules per Part21
Anyone can read the EAA's synopsis of the Sport Pilot rule (19 pages instead of >400) at the following link: http://www.sportpilot.org/rule/sp_rule.pdf (4) A maximum stalling speed or minimum steady flight speed without the use of lift-enhancing devices (VS1) of not more than 45 knots CAS at the aircraft's maximum certificated takeoff weight and most critical center of gravity. The new Light Sport category seems to be specifically for more complete kits (>51%) and completed aircraft. I'm not sure if the consensus standard for this has been publicly released yet, but that doesn't apply to us anyway. "It appears" that any plans-built experimental will need to be registered under the previously existing experimental category & rules, and that you would apply for the previously existing "experimental repairman's certificate" to allow the owner to perform maintenance & annual inspections. The new "light sport repairmans certificate" is specifically for the more complete kits & completed aircraft, which would not qualify for the previously existing experimental category. "It appears" that any plans-built experimental would be eligible to be flown by a lights sport pilot if it meets all the criteria for a light sport aircraft. I have yet to see anything from the FAA or EAA to even slightly touch on how that eligibility can be confirmed. I suspect that plan-builders will be at the end of the list, as far as priorities go. Regards, RonB
KR> GPSMAP 296 @ Discount prices (AC Spruce)
At 08:53 PM 11/4/04, Brant Hollensbe wrote: > > For the president of a dealership to go public and announce that >he has turned another dealership in and why, is a very poor bussiness >practice indeed. Why did nobody notice the AOL.com address and wonder if this is a fake? As usual, I get suspicious if a purported company email comes from some other domain. Regards, RonB
KR> Mylar Gap Seals
Mark Jones wrote: > If anyone else knows where we can buy this in >lesser quantities or even in 4" wide rolls please speak up. This is untried, and I don't know if the cost per person is advantageous or not, but in the interest of diseminating information, here goes: McMaster-Carr has an ultra high molecular weight polyethylene tape (hereafter known as UHMW) available that might well work in this application. It is available in .0045", .0065", and .0115" thicknesses, of which .0015" is adhesive. This is a very tough, slippery material, and the adhesive appears to be durable. It is available in widths of 1/2", 3/4", 1", 2", 3" and 6" (not 4", unfortunately). http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3197 I've used it for a bearing surface here at work, where we have a very heavy sliding door; I put it on the guide rail and it doesn't show any wear or signs of coming off after 7 years. Will this work on a plane? I don't know. One hassle is that it has adhesive all the way across, and some way will have to be devised to keep it from binding on the aileron. If the thinner size is used, it could possibly be doubled on the half that is not meant to be stuck (kind of like a sideways J). Regards, RonB
KR> UK builders
At 09:16 AM 10/22/04, you wrote: >Hi All. >'Twould seem that my thoughts on building the KR2S in the UK will not be >coming to pass. This morning I had a communiqué from the PFA telling me >that the machine as yet is NOT type approved in the UK. You might want to try and find this guy: http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/katkinson/ Regards, RonB
KR> G limit
At 04:12 AM 9/30/04, Gavin wrote: >I disagree that lift loads are much larger farther from the fuselage on the >new 504xx wing designs! >Maybe someone can shed some light on this? the chord of the wing decreases >as the wing tapers to the tip, therefore reducing the available lift as the >wing tapers due to reduces area. A paper on load distrubution and how to calculate (close but approximate) the mean aerodynamin chord for a tapered wing is at this link: http://www.bd5.com/BedeDesign15.jpg So, the slightly conservative calculation for bending load on the spar would be half the maximum G-load gross weight of the plane at a lever arm of the MAC distance. Regards, RonB
KR> of wings, stubs, and attachments
As drawn, the KR has wing stubs coming straight out from the fuselage, then the dihedral is built in at the joint between the stub wings and the outer wings. What would be the problems with moving the wing attach point in to the fuselage, then having straight wings all the way out? The advantage would be simpler wing construction and slightly cleaner appearance. The only things I can see as problems are greater stress on the wing attach fittings and if the construction process requires short wing sections. But then, I know I don't know it all. That's why I ask ;-) Regards, Ron Butterfield
KR> Ellison EFS2
Dan wrote: >You have to beg, borrow, or steal to get an EFS-2 now There is one on Ebay right now, for $399. I know nothing else about it. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem=1=2488752466=26437=WDVW Beware line wrap. If the link is on more than one line, cut and paste into notepad or something and edit to be all one line, then paste into the address line of your browser. Regards, RonB
KR> To cool or not too kool
Orma wrote: >It seems that some where in the past I read that temps are >different at different places on the head. Is under the plug the hottest >spot? Well, I wacked Google on this one http://www.google.com/search?num=50=en==UTF-8=vw+%22head+temperature+probe%22+=Search and came up with this one result, which didn't show what I wanted to show http://www.greatplainsas.com/bf20032.html According to them (and some others) the spark plug is not an accurate place for head temp measurements. When the Mexican Beetles went to fuel injection, VW added a boss to the heads to provide a known place from which to measure temperature; that's what I can't find the picture of at the moment. If I remember correctly, it was near the corner of the valve cover, about 1-1/2" toward the center of the engine. Regards, RonB
KR> CC ing the heads-Buret
At 07:15 PM 5/17/04, Orma wrote: >Man !!! $100 to $150 is too rich for my budget. How about these? $15 http://www.vwalley.com/images/head_cc_kit.jpg I know nothing. I am only a messenger. Regards, Ron Butterfield
KR> Successful VW Conversion
The basic idea is to take a stock flywheel, cut in down on a lathe to an appropriate diameter, and drill it with a bolt pattern. This becomes the flange for a hand-start engine. Then, a spool is machined from aluminum, with a center section of about 2-3/4" diameter, about 4" long overall, with a flange on each end (one with the bolt pattern of the prop, the other with the bolt pattern of the flange). There is a hole about 1-3/4" diameter through the middle, I am assuming for weight reduction. Caveat: I have not seen this, nor flown behind one, nor built one. This is just the information I have been able to find. I have also read that if the machining, especially the bolt circles, is not done accurately, the resulting offset can create a horrendous vibration and possibly break cranks or cases. Regards, RonB
KR>Source for aluminum "T" stock.
At 07:51 PM 3/14/04, you wrote: > Can anyone give me a source for the 1" "T" stock as mentioned in Dean R. >Collette's stabilizer/elevator hinge article. >(http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/dean_hinge/) I assume it is 1/8" 6061 >material. McMaster has something very close. www.mcmaster.com Search for part number 1668T14, which is 1/8" thick x 7/8" high x width unknown (not listed). From the illustration, I would guess it's about 2x wider than high. These items are not in the print catalog. They also have 1/16" & 3/16" thicknesses, but a limited selection of heights. Regards, RonB
KR>Nyloseal fittings
At 02:55 AM 3/19/04, you wrote: >Also does anyone know what the difference is between 1/8 BSP (Churchill) >and 1/8 NPT (Eisenhower)? Must be bugger all at this dimension!! I can't help with the other questions, but this one I can (I work for a UK company in the States). NPT is the US standard for pipe thread. BSP is British Standard Pipe, and comes in two flavors, tapered & parallel (BSPP & BSPT). A more detailed explanation can be found here: http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?pagenum=3 Regards, RonB Mebane, NC