KR> Fw: Epoxy canopy.

[BadBob]

From: BadBob
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 10:10 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Epoxy canopy.




This is the forth attempt to send this through..:


After receiving an email from an overseas KR driver advising of a different 
approach to gluing canopies
I tried a little test.

One sample was with two layers of cloth and Aeropoxy. The second was with 
one layer
glued with cheap polyester resin (Bondo) with peel ply followed (after 
curing) with a layer
of cloth glued with Aeropoxy (to check compatibility).

The side with Aeropoxy only is strong but can be peeled with some effort. 
Mark L?s canopy is
attached with this approximate method and has yet to exit the aircraft in 
flight (a good thing!).

The side with polyester glue on the bottom layer to attach to the plastic 
will not come off short of
destruction of the assembly! The second layer, glued with the Aeropoxy, with 
not come loose from the
underlayment except where there was a bubble of separation.

My conclusion (please form your own) is that the canopy should be glued to 
the glass with polyester
followed by glass (carbon fiber) glued with your favorite epoxy resin to 
attach to the canopy frame.

The results can be seen in the last picture of my picture log:

https://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#

Your results may vary.that method has not been flight tested.

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
(971)-645-9491
badbob0...@embarqmail.com

KR> Canopy Gluing- Epoxy

[BadBob]

Mark L. wrote ?Another key is HOW you do it...you need to sandwich the acrylic 
on both sides with
glass to put it in a sort of "double shear" rather than glass on only one 
side" ?snip- 

Since I will be attaching my canopy soon I thought a test was in order.   
I gouged (very rough) an area in some bead foam and roughed up (very rough!) a 
piece of 
left over canopy material. Flox was applied to the foam, the canopy material 
applied to the flox (no glass)and 
carbon fiber was applied to the outside of the canopy material. 

Please note that the foam was so rough there was not 100% contact with the 
canopy plastic. The 
carbon was not completely wetted out. I purposely set up a scenario of failure 
to see how well the joint would 
hold when not even done properly. 

The results are the three last pictures on my photo site. After 24 hours and an 
insufficient cure I really had to 
struggle to break loose a corner. The carbon fiber separated from the epoxy 
(Aeropoxy)  but the epoxy could not be removed 
from the canopy plastic!  After a full cure of the epoxy I can honestly say 
that, if installed properly, the canopy is not 
going to separate in flight! The bond is unbelievable strong! 

The key is to roughen the plastic to the point that the epoxy has something to 
hold to, just like Mark L. said!

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
(971) 645-9491

 https://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS# 

KR> Linear Actuator for elevator trim.

[BadBob]

OOPS.sorry
http://www.firgelli.com/products.php


Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
971-645-9491
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#

KR> Linear Actuator for elevator trim.

[BadBob]

I found this tonight and thought I would share. It is a miniature linear 
actuator 
1.67 in long with an arm that has a little over 3/4 inch travel (20mm). The one 
with 
the 100/1 gear has about 7 pounds of force. You can get it with end travel 
limit 
switches built in and they all have internal  potion feedback. Operating 
voltage 
in 6VDC and they sell for $65.00! A control board for precise position control 
is 
$40.00 or just use a $6.00 rocker switch for control. This is a lot cheaper 
than 
the Ray Allen units.  Also the mounting looks easier than using an electric 
mirror drive.

Would this not be about perfect for elevator and aileron trim? 
There are larger more powerful units if you think you need them. 
(No, I am not affiliated with them).

I'm working on a couture for my seat before  I start using the carbon fiber.


Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
971-645-9491
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#

KR> RE: Canopy Gluing- Epoxy

[BadBob]

Joe stated;
"Any holes drilled around the edges make for a potential stress riser. Drill
no holes."

I would have to respectfully disagree, to a point, with Joe on this one. (I 
don't find myself in that position often as he is a wealth of good 
information!).
The canopy on my Thorp T-18 was drilled and had screws holding it on with no 
glue. The canopy on my  Cassutt is also bolted on and 
has seen 250 MPH+ without an issue.
Now, having said that, Joe brings up an important point. A stress riser is to 
be avoided on a plastic canopy. You do not drill a canopy 
the way you drill other things. If so inclined to drill please research the 
subject thoroughly or you will be buying another canopy! Also you must mount, 
through the hole, without binding the canopy. You can, however,
drill a canopy and bolt it or cotton flox it for added strength, however, heed 
Joes warning and be careful.

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
971-645-9491

KR> Mil-spec 6073 vs. any other wood

[BadBob]

"I've been reading articles about selecting and testing wood. Lots of good 
info. 
Besides Sitka Spruce, Port Orford Cedar, Alaskan Yellow Cedar and Hemlock are 
rated as good choices for airplanes."

I am using Douglas Fir for the longerons and spars on my KR2SS, with one piece 
wing. The Fir is about 16% heaver but 15% stronger in tension and compression 
the spruce. 
I used to grade lumber many, many years ago. So I looked up the specs and 
inspect the lumber myself.
Aircraft grade Douglas Fir is not cheap (look at lumber intended for boat masts 
and cabinet supplies). It is, however a LOT 
cheaper than aircraft grade Spruce!
Pictures of the project are at 
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS# . In picture 17 you 
will see the laminations of Fir for the longerons. Look carefully at the 
grain. Grain that fine is not cheap! BTW, it rook an extra 10 hours to build 
the forms so I could build the sides with the "bends" already in them.
I thought that was faster than repairing broken longerons while trying to bend 
the sides into "submission". A large consideration was in making the inside 
seating area
42+ inches wide at the shoulders. That is a lot of bending of the sides if you 
build them flat!

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR 97396
971-645-9491

KR> vw 2kcc long block

[BadBob]

I still have the type 4, 2400cc converted engine for sale. most of the mods 
have been done. One more process need to be done according to Steve Bennett. 
The last process was added after Steve did this crank.
$1200.00
No ignition, intake, exhaust or carb.

http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/Type4VW#

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR 97396
971-645-9491

KR> Back to building!!

[BadBob]

Man, how the time flies!!!   I did what I thought be a reasonable build in
sixty days only to run out of money.

Some time passed and the money flowed again. J   So I ordered enough "stuff"
to pretty much complete

my airframe (KR2SS).  Then a lot of time transpired .without any building
taking place. That

sure is an easy trap to fall into.



And now, going forward with new resolve, I am back to building again. (Yah',
happy days).



New pictures to follow soon.



Bob Johnson

Willamina, OR

(971) 645-9491



 
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#

KR> 1300# gross weight question

[BadBob]

"Sure don't mean to scare anyone and you bring up some good points.  I will

revise my gross down to 1200# and find a way to meet that."



Build your spars out of aircraft grade Douglas Fir. The wood is more than
15% stronger in tension and compression than spruce.



Bob Johnson

Willamina, OR

badbob0...@embarqmail.com

KR> Type-4 engine for sale.

[badbob]

Hi Bob.

What's the full story with the Type 4 motor?

I have been considering going VW instead of Corvair due to price and
availability of parts here in Australia.
Cheers
Darren Crompton
AUSTRALIA

Hi Darren.

I got the engine with a partially built KR2S. I bought the plane (built stock 
and to the plan specs) for the landing gear, brakes, tires ,wheels, etc..
Also I can ckeck the plans against construction looking at the boat! Even with 
that I made one mistake and had to remove the upper gussets for the firewall!
I am building a really stretched and widened KR2SS and need more HP. If I were 
building a stock KR it would work fine as several people have used them.
So now the engine is for sale. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!!

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR USA
badbob0...@embarqmail.com
(971) 645-9491

KR> Type-4 engine for sale.

[badbob]

A 2400cc type 4 engine for sale with engine mount. Modified crank (Steve 
Bennett says it nee one more process) force one prop hub and bearing. No 
intake, exhaust or ignition. No oil pump.

$1200 OBO. I will crate for free and shipping is at actual cost. Free delivery 
within 200 miles. (My zip 97396)
Pictures at.

http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/Type4VW#

Bob Johnson
23520 SW Solar Dr
Willamina, OR 97396
(971) 645-9491

badbob0...@embarqmail.com

KR> KR2SS under construction.

[BadBob]

Well, after building for two months I thought I should post some pictures.
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#
The idea for the laminations came from Mark L's website and Darren Crompton.
The longerons are 5/8 X 3/4 inches. The extra strength is to raise the gross 
weight 
(corresponding increase in wing spar strength) as well as to have the option of 
a larger
engine. At this time however a Corvair 3100 will probably be enough power.
Douglas Fir is around 16% heavier but 15% stronger the Spruce. 
The fuselage has two extra 14" bays aft of the main spar and is also 2" longer
in front of the main spar. The Douglas Fir used is from a 400 year old tree!

Bob Johnson
Oregon
badbob0...@embarqmail.com

KR> Stick forces

[BadBob]

My Cassutt is probably close to a KR. I have a friend with a Lancair 235 
sporting an 0-290. He and I are both over 200lbs resulting in a rearward cg.. 
When I first flew the aircraft it took a concerted effort to to not cause pilot 
induced oscillations. 

To fly it required "caging" the stick until flying for a few minutes. I would 
not own an aircraft that sensitive in pitch. I extended my KR2SS 28 inches (two 
extra bays) to insure a stable cross country airplane.

Bob Johnson
Oregon, USA
badbob0...@embarqmail.com

KR> Engine weights.

[BadBob]

http://www.mattituck.com/TMX20-24.htm

Interesting options based on Marks 3100 "big boy" weight!!!



Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
badbob0...@embarqmail.com

KR> Ebay listing.

[BadBob]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Other-Vehicles-Trailers_Aircraft__KR-2-Experimental-aircraft-low-time-hangered-nice-plane_W0QQitemZ330311574378QQddnZOtherQ20VehiclesQ20Q26Q20TrailersQQadiZ2829QQddiZ2828QQadnZAircraftQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Aircraft?hash=item330311574378&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318#ebayphotohosting


Bob Johnson
badbob0...@embarqmail.com