KR> First Engine Run

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Jeff,
Hopefully this pair will go the distance.  I had to removed the coil from the 
main core for clearance reasons since the engine is crammed as far aft as 
possible.  The coils are mounted on the firewall.  Access to anything sucks.  
Oh well.  At least timing the pmags was a cinch.  Back to work.
Roger


FWIW, I am not at all down on the Pmags.  However, in my case they have not 
lived up to my expectations for maintenance.  

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

___

KR> Fwd:

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Speaking of canopy, I made one for my engine for break in purposes.  By next 
weekend I should be making airplane noises.  Then I need to make a PAINT canopy 
for the shop.  Getting there.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net
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KR> Firewall

[rbaalman at cox.net]

 Phillip Hill via KRnet  wrote: 
> FYI: Searches work better if you know that any sheet metal less than
something like .010" is considered "foil".


I used fiberfrax and .002" foil.  The lower 10" is doubled where the fuel lines 
would be.  It was propane torch proof, so I know I can land  without the 
firewall structure ablaze.  The foil came in 24" width.  
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net

KR> Smooth Prime problems

[rbaalman at cox.net]

> > Several weeks ago, Mike Sylvester posted an email about the problem he had 
> > sanding the parts had previously primed. 
> 
> I found it good stuff.  Use credit card to squeegee first coat to fill 
> holes.  Roll or spray several thin coats after that.  Like they say, a 
> thick coat is a waist of time.
> -- 
> *Gary *
> /Soli Deo Gloria/

Pete,
I had good results using UV smooth prime.  Easy on the lungs and the ability to 
roll allows priming areas w/out the hassle of spraying.  Multiple thin coats 
for best results.  It dries quickly.  Squeegeeing is an important step
Roger
rbaalman at cox.net

KR> Fire sleeve.

[rbaalman at cox.net]

 Stef den Boer via KRnet  wrote: 
> hi kr friends,
> Just started with the fuel system. I need to protect the fuel line with some
> fire sleeve.

It will be fine to use that stuff.  Just coat the ends with silicon to seal 
from liquids getting in and then band the ends. With a little searching, the 
Bandit Jrs are affordable, and the finished lines look professional.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net

KR> Fuselage to wing fairings?

[rbaalman at cox.net]

> Pete Klapp wrote:
> 
>  >>What are you leaning towards? If the fuselage sides are vertical as 
> mine are, is a small fillets okay?<<
> 
> Small fillets at the L/E is preferred.  I increased the fillet radius from 
> the the wing center going aft and then extended it beyond the wing T/E by 
> another 2 foot(ish). Kinda what Jeff Scott did.
Roger 
rbaalman at cox.net
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KR> composite how-to

[rbaalman at cox.net]

> Bill Jacobs wrote:
>  > What do you consider the best book on carbon fiber in a how to book 
> for dyi?
> In addition to what Mark mentioned, when working with CF, it is stiff, but 
> when you use a heat gun or hair dryer on it and the resin, the CF lays out 
> nicely to about any curve and allows the excess resin to be squeegeed off. 
> Also, 1.5 oz or lighter FB deck cloth will gve a virtually pinhole free 
> surface.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net
>

KR> ForeFlight vs iFly GPS

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Mark,
I am not a user of the I FLY, but have used the forflight for a couple of years 
on the mini.  I have a gps in the mini and cellular service.  When flying in 
questionable weather, the radar overlay makes picking my way through it much 
less nerve wracking.  Of course to get cellular info, I have to be below 4000'. 
 Airport weather info can be updated at takeoff if flying high.  Building is 
still a priority, so XCflying is on rare occasion.  You can get the forflight 
app for 30 days trial.  Good luck.  
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net


 Mark Jones via KRnet  wrote: 
> Hey guys,
> Those of you who use these need to tell me which is better.

KR> Filling low spots in cured fiberglass without spending $200 on a can of EA960F

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Like Jeff mentioned, using your epoxy sytem and microspheres will give you the 
lightest and cheapes filler available.  Do not fill the low spots untill you 
are ready to fill the whole elevator.  Do it in one operation if possible.  
Then you can sing the sanding song while sanding.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net 
Owasso, OK


 Jeff Scott via KRnet  wrote: 
> >
> > So, I just re-did my elevator, and I have some small depressions in the
> > skin
> > 
> > I've sanded down what I can, but some are too low to sand out
> > 
> > What do you guys use for filling/fairing compound, for this sort of thing?
> 
> West Epoxy and microspheres.
> 
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> 15 year life on Control Cable and fittings

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Time in service is for the cable assembly, not the individual pieces, and is 
based off the aircraft manufacture date.  The clock starts after the aircraft 
is signed off as airworthy, and repeats every 15 years. (technically).  If you 
live on the coast and the project is taking 10 years to complete, consideration 
of cable assembly deterioration must be taken into account.  
As an alternative, using MSG-3 methodology (maintenance program) will allow a 
potential extension.  I don't see MSG-3 as an option for the KR builder.  Darn.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net

 Phillip Matheson via KRnet  wrote: 
> 
Hi guys
CASA has released an AD in Australia limiting control cable life to 15
years, this seem to include building time on some fittings.

KR> testing 1..3

[rbaalman at cox.net]

The only circuit breaker accessable to the pilot is the fuel pump. It is 
located just below the throttle adjacent to the fuel pump switches. This is the 
only item I have to have to stay aloft.  There are three pumps (L, R, & a 
common for either).  I will be using Pmags, so if I have partial electrical 
meltdown, the fuel pump will be my only item of concern, and it is powered from 
the E bus.  If one pump pops the circuit breaker, I can isolate, reset, and 
fire up another pump. The rest of the fuses will not be replaced in flight.  Up 
in the air is no place for playing mechanic.
Roger
 John Bouyea  wrote: 
> Hi Roger. Looks interesting and tidy. Do you envision needing to replace 
> fuses/ reset breakers in-flight?
> 
> -Original Message-
> ...For access, the panel swings out, hinged on the right side adjacent to the 
> glove box. Fuse/ relay panel is behind, and it also swings out to access 
> contactor, volt regulator and wirebundle...
> Roger Baalman
> 

KR> testing 1..3

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I am deep into airframe wiring.  90% complete 70% to go.  I think I have wasted 
$20 in terminal ends.  The panel is now a psuedo permanent part of the cabin.  
For access, the panel swings out, hinged on the right side adjacent to the 
glove box. Fuse/ relay panel is behind, and it also swings out to access 
contactor, volt regulator and wirebundle.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net
>
> >It is very quied on the net? or something is wrong, or everybody is 
> >very bussy with building or flying.
> >Stef
> >-++
> 
> I've been busy doing the annual inspection on my KR and disassembling 
> a second 0-200 to do a rebuild and eventually an engine 
> swap.  Weather is warming now so it's about flying season 
> again.  Yeee H...
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
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KR> Throttle cables

[rbaalman at cox.net]

The standard would be a friction lock type.  The vernier takes a bit to get 
used to as a throttle,  (must be a twisty thing),but would work.  If you have 
never used a vernier throttle, I would not recommend  using one on a first 
flight in a newly built experimental aircraft. No heckling from the Bonanza 
folks.
Roger
rbaalman at cox.net



> Talking about the throttle I have a question. What are you all using?. A 
> normall throttle with a friction or the vernier system. What is the 
> experiance? I have to buy it soon but I am in a doubt.

KR> OT: heat rejection capacity from exhaust port walls

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I met a guy at Oshkosh who had an RV 6 with a Lyc 360.  He had the piston tops, 
exhaust ports and exhaust pipes ceramic coated.  The cooling air inlets are 2 
1/8 diameter and  he has no problems with cooling issues.  It appears keeping 
the heat in the exhaust flow is the key.  Interesting stuff.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net

> >
> > That means if we don't alter anything else but reduce absorption, can
> > we see a significant drop in cylinder head temps?
> >
> > Maybe an effective thermal barrier coated exhaust port makes a
> > difference? Anybody tried that yet?
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> > options
> >
> >
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> designing an engine mount

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Craig,
I built an engine mount for my KR2 with an O235 L2C.  The engine needs to be 
mounted as high as possible within the confines of fuse.  This means the mount 
tubes running from the upper longerons to the conical mount ring will be angled 
uphill.  Another tube will extend from the upper longeron mount down to the 
lower mount on the conical ring as well as from the lower longeron mount.  I 
also ran tubes from the upper longeron mount to the upper crossover tube on 
both sides.  This design is fairly standard for lycoming engines.  If your O235 
 is a C model, the mount would be similar to the O200. engine mount.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net
- 
> > Has anyone here been involved in designing an engine mount before.  Looking 
> > for
> > general rules to follow.  I wanted to keep the upper mounts as close to the
> > Longeron as possible but that mean the upper tubes would be angled up to the
> > upper conical mount points.  I'm wondering if that is ok or is it best to 
> > keep
> > the geometry of the tubes down since the upper tubes are in tension and the
> > lower are in compression by the weight of the engine.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > Craig
> > www.kr2seafury.com
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> > options
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> KR-1 Corvair...

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I will be installing an O235 in my KR2S.  I believe the Lycoming will be 
happier in the KR2 than the C152.  I have to get through the sanding, sanding, 
sanding first.
Roger Baalman
Owasso, OK
rbaalman at cox.net


 Dan Prichard via KRnet  wrote: 
> Look at the krnet. Lynn Hyder put an o235 on his modified kr2. I saw it a few 
> months ago at his daughters house in SW Portland. Wings were sawed off.  He 
> was trying to sell the engine. 

Dan Prichard 
Portland Oregon 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 20, 2015, at 5:32 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Paul said, Corvair on a KR1, WOW! That would be a lot of engine.
> 
> Has anyone ever put more than an O-200 on a KR2?   Say an O-235 or so...
> 
> Joe
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> 
>  Original message From: ppaulvsk via KRnet 
>  Date:01/20/2015  5:23 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
> To: John Edwards ,KRnet  list.krnet.org> Subject: Re: KR> KR-1 Corvair... 
> WOW! That would be a lot of engine
> 
> Paul Visk
> Belleville Il
> 618-406-4705
> 
> 
> Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.
> 
>  Original message From: John Edwards via 
> KRnet  Date:01/20/2015  3:01 PM  
> (GMT-05:00) To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> 
> KR-1 Corvair... 
> Does anyone know of a KR-1/Corvair that has flown?
> 
> I have a KR-1/VW1835cc that I fly as my daily flyer.
> 
> I am considering upgrading to a Corvair 3000cc since this is the 
> lightest version in the Corvair line.
> Has anyone flown a KR-1/Corvair combo?
> 
> John E
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
options

KR> Glassing The Boat

[rbaalman at cox.net]

One way to help decide is to take two identical sized pieces of scrap plywood.  
Fill one with whatever filler and the other with the deck cloth and epoxy.  
Then weigh.  I covered my fuselage ply and wing/tail skins with deck cloth.  I 
used a heat gun or hair dryer to help soak up the resin.  A few areas I needed 
to add resin to the deck cloth, so basically the wieght of the cloth is the 
only penalty (on the wing). Also as stated, the pin holes are far and few 
between.  When covering the plywood with deck cloth, you will find the resin 
goes a long way.
My plug is to go for it.
Roger Baalman rbaalman at cox.net

> 
> 
> Corrected math:
> 
> 12.5 sq ft in each yard of cloth
> 24 sq ft on each outer wing surface
> 2 yards of deck cloth is 2.8 oz
> plus 3 oz of resin (1.5 oz  / yard)
>   that is 17.2 oz per wing panel surface.  Still a cheap fill and it 
> adds some strength.
> 
> Larry Flesner 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> A-790 Vernier Control Cable

[rbaalman at cox.net]

You can cut the cable with a pair of dykes or use an abrasive wheel.  Dress the 
end of the housing.  Don't forget when cutting the housing to length, pull the 
inner cable out a ways.  Gets frustrating when the inner wire is too short. Cut 
the inner wire to length with the housing clamped in its final position.
Roger
> 
> My question is what is the proper method to cut the control to size? There
> is a galvanized steel casing with a Teflon internal coating and a solid
> wire core.
> 
> Alex Pearson
> alexptx at gmail.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Wing mounting possibilities.

[rbaalman at cox.net]

4 lbs. plus a lb for foam.  
Roger
rbaalman at cox.net
 Alex Pearson  wrote: 
> How much additional weight did the plywood add?
> 
> Alex Pearson
> alexptx at gmail.com
> 

KR> Wing mounting possibilities.

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I will have to weigh the ply and foam.  Another builder is adding the ply in 
the cockpit and it is not glued in yet.
Roger
rbaalman at cox.net


 Alex Pearson  wrote: 
> How much additional weight did the plywood add?
> 

KR> Wing mounting possibilities.

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I am building mine the same way.  Angle brackets attach the wing to the 
fuselage and transfer the loads for and aft.  I also added plywood skins on the 
inside of the cockpit like Joe Horton did.  I like the look and the sides are 
much stiffer.
Roger Baalman
rbaalman at cox.net



 Larry Storlie via KRnet  wrote: 
> I'm new but have been studying many of the sites shown on KRnet.org.  I' m
> confused by the one for a KR2s being built by Robert Pesak (close to the
> bottom of the list of those under construction).  The workmanship is
> fantastic but he is mounting the one piece wing by sawing two slots in the
> bottom of the boat and sliding the completed wing in from the bottom.
> Anyone care to comment?
>

KR> rudder pedals

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I plan on adding stop blocks extending aft from the firewall to the pilot side 
pedals for those moments when reaction happens faster than rational thought.  
This will add literally zero pounds.
Enjoyed the conversations at the Gathering last week.
Roger
Owasso, OK


 Paul Visk via KRnet  wrote: 
> I'm thinking a quick fix would be to put ?your rudder travel stops coming off 
> the firewall and hitting the peddle under your foot. Making sure it doesn't 
> affect your braking. By doing this, it will remove all excessive forces from 
> the rudder control system.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 406 4705

KR> N891JF flights

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Sounds like an adventure.  I will take the big silver tube to ONT.  Hopefully 
next year.
Roger

KR> slow net

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I am staring at a dynafocal engine mount ring that is missing the legs to the 
airframe.  It does kill some time.  I had an aha moment and decided to build 
the engine mount before the building up the engine.  An aluminum case is much 
lighter without the steel inside.
Roger Baalman



 Larry&Sallie Flesner  wrote: 
> 
> 
> Slow day on the net.  Thought I share an observation / realization I 
> came to while remodeling the bathroom this weekend.
> 
> The only person to win the race of life is the one that dies with 
> "one too many tools".
> 
> Coming down the home stretch with only one more trip to the hardware store. 
> :-)
> 
> I spent 2 1/2 hours with Paul Visk at the airport yesterday evening 
> talking KR's and answering questions.
> 
> I'd rather be flying !!
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> FOAM THICKNESS

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I made my wing skins using 1/2 inch divinycell as the core.  I had to cut score 
marks and  make a caul plate to glass the inside on a curve.  My wing is one 
piece and each side had a contour rib midway out as well as on each end.  This 
stuff does not sand easily, but end result is superior to urethane.  I also 
used it for making flat panels and my seat bottom.  This stuff if better used 
in a mold like in the Deihl wings, but with patience, it can be sanded.  Use 
fresh 36 grit sand paper.  Belt sand paper glued to a straight edge worked 
well.  Next time I would add a few more ribs (for sanding purposes).
Roger

 m.ladigo at cox.net wrote: 
> Hi Larry,
> I wholly agree about the pro's of Klegicell and I would love to have a set of 
> "skins" made with it.  However, Dan Diehl's skins were made with Lastifoam.  
> It's a lot better than the urethane but not nearly as tough as klegicell.  
> I know this because I hangared with Dan for 18 years and have seen and helped 
> him make skins.  I have also used his "skin foam" in other parts or my own 
> KR.  As a disclaimer, I will say that I don't know what type of foam was used 
> before the change to Lastifoam prior to 1996.  That is the point that I 
> started becoming much more aware of composites and the materials used.
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> KR Gathering attendance

[rbaalman at cox.net]

If Aircraft Acc. can complete the repair by Wed afternoon, I can deliver it to 
you Thursday morning.
Roger


 Robert7721 at aol.com wrote: 
> Well heck, my KR is not going to make it to the Gathering. Sorry Mark  
> Langford, you'll need to find another candidate for the weight and balance  
> forum. 
>  
> I was flying back from breakfast Saturday morning. I air I did a  Magneto 
> check in air and the left Mag was running rough. No problem, right  side was 
> still fine so I made it back to my airport with no issues.  I  did the usual 
> checks, replaced a couple spark plugs, looked for loose wiring  etc.  
> Rechecked all a couple times but to no avail, my Bendix Dual Magneto  needs 
> to be 
> pulled and serviced. It will take a few weeks since I need to mail  it off 
> to Tulsa OK (Aircraft Accessories) for service and return. They did the  
> overhaul on it 500 hours ago and it has been running perfectly for the last 
> 500 
>  hours, 7 years. I'll get it reworked and run it another 500.
>  
> I will still attend the gathering, but won't be flying in now, big  
> disappointment. See everyone next Friday. Since I'm not flying I'll bring 
> some  
> "Root Beer" for the camp fire.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Rob Schmitt
> N1852Z
> Kansas City, MO
>  
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> gathering forum idea

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Bring it on.  This would be good timing for me.  I hope to paint next year.  A 
majority of the "SANDING" is behind me.
Roger



 Jeff York  wrote: 
> Larry,
> 
> I know its last minute but last night while working in my shop, I had an 
> idea.?
> 
> Many have commented on my KR2 paint job and I have been fortunate to win a 
> few awards with it and other projects. Dan Heath pointed out to me that it 
> had a lot to do with my paint jobs.?
> 
> So, I thought, if it would benefit the group, I would be happy to put on a 
> forum on painting a KR/airplane.?
> 
> I could bring my recently painted wheel pants and other support items such as 
> the different spray guns I use. I can discuss the difference in standard 
> gravity feed guns, HVLP and the newest innovation in spray technology, LVLP 
> guns.?
> 
> I would also bring a few samples of the different paints such as Acrylic, 
> Enamel, and Urethane and discuss single stage paints, and multi stage base 
> coat clear coats and the benefits of each. How to decide which paint is right 
> for my budget?
> 
> I have seen a lot of airplane and automotive paint jobs and I feel and would 
> point out that I believe the difference in a great paint job and a so so 
> paint job is so close that with just a little extra time and very little 
> extra effort, many could achieve the same level of paint as I have. There are 
> just a few techniques?when painting that make a world of difference.?
> 
> I can also share how I built a spray booth in my garage that I can also 
> disassemble and erect in my hanger. It cost about 50.00 in materials to erect 
> this booth.
> 
> I think a lot of KR builders and aircraft builder's share a great pride in 
> their hand built aircraft. They spend many years building their plane and 
> with just a few tips and techniques, they can gain a great deal of additional 
> pride with a fantastic paint job. All their effort shows that if they have 
> the skills to build something that can fly, they can easily gain the skills 
> to create and exceptional paint job to match their exceptional building 
> skills.?
> 
> Now, I am not a professional painter. Never have been and I imagine there are 
> several KR builders who can paint better then me. But, I have been able to 
> gain a decent amount of knowledge over the years that I have applied to my 
> projects and I would enjoy sharing it with others and give back to my fellow 
> KR builders and community.?
> 
> If it is to late and you have all the forums booked up, I understand. Please 
> take my offer in the spirit of giving back that I intend it.
> 
> Jeff York
> KR2
> 2010 Gathering, Peoples Choice, Best Interior
> 2011 AirFest, Best Experimental, Best Interior, Best Instrument
> ___
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> options

KR> New Panel build to add a SkyView.

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I just laid up the fiberglass on the vert. stab. and rudder this week.  New 
instrument panels do help keep the fire roaring.  I will get a better look at 
it in Oct.
Roger


 Dan Heath  wrote: 
> The panel is complete, but the wiring is not.
> 
>  
> 
>

KR> capacitance fuel level sender?

[rbaalman at cox.net]

As an alternative, you can bore the five mounting holes and the probe hole and 
use a sealed nut ring on the inside of the tank.  I made the ring out of scrap 
aluminum and riveted domed nut-plates to the ring and then epoxied the ring to 
the tank.  The hole pattern may  be similar to what cessna uses on their tanks 
which is not symmetrical.  The probe will need to be clocked after bending/ 
before drilling mount holes.  The bendable section will be the first few inches 
of the probe.  
Roger

 Jeff Scott  wrote: 
> It looks like the same thing as the Westach capacitance probe which is what 
> I've got in my KR. ?It has 5 holes for 3/16 screws and should come with a 
> square mounting plate and gasket. ?You bond the aluminum plate to the side of 
> the fuel tank where you want to mount the probe. ?The probe goes through a 
> hole in the center of the plate and the base mounts to the flange using 5 
> 3/16 screws or bolts. ?I had problems with them weeping under the mounting 
> gaskets off and on until I finally sealed the gaskets with some west epoxy. 
> ?If you have an aluminum tank, you could weld or rivet the aluminum mounting 
> flange to the tank. ?The picture at 
>  shows the 
> mounting flange (even though that particular unit is the older 12V version of 
> the probe).

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM



> - Original Message -
> From: Mark Langford
> Sent: 07/19/13 06:12 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: KR> capacitance fuel level sender?
> 
> KRNetHeads,
> 
> I've finally finished up front-hinging the canopy (I'll work up a web page 
> over the weekend), and next on the list is adding a fuel level sender to 
> N891JF. I have a VDO 226-007 resistive sender, but am considering a 
> capacitance sensor as well. MGL sells one near the bottom of 
> http://www.mglavionics.com/html/infinity.html described as "Capacitance Fuel 
> Level Sender, Bendable, Cutable" . Is anybody familiar with this particular 
> unit, and might know the thread size or other mounting details? I have a call 
> in to MGL but have not heard back yet. I'm using an RDAC XF interface, and I 
> think either of these two would work, but am checking my options.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com 
> 
> 
> ___
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___
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options

KR> aileron pushrods

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Cherry rivets are structurally a substitute for solid rivets.  I don't think 
you will have any corrosion issues with monel rivets as monel is corrosion 
resistant  and is used in aircraft construction where two different metals are 
joined, typically aluminum and steel.
Roger

 robert gill  wrote: 
> from my previous question regarding aileron pushrods I am searching for solid 
> steel rivets for the aileron push rods and can't find any, I would prefer to 
> use the steel rivets, as the rod ends and tube are chrome steel, were I think 
> with alloy or monel rivets there will be corrosion issues over time. 
> (indifferent metals = corrosion. as I was taught at school.) any one have any 
> other suggestions.or another option. would steel cherry rivets be considered 
> strong enough to do the job? in place of solid. 
> 
> ___
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> options

KR> Gathering weight and balance demo

[rbaalman at cox.net]

I will verify Larry actually burns the fuel from the right seat.
Roger
> 
> 
> We could just empty it in to my 25 gallon tank(s) and I'll see if I 
> can fly it off as fast as you do the W&B. :-)
> 
> Larry Flesner

KR> First Flight Video

[rbaalman at cox.net]

 Sid Wood  wrote: 
> Thanks to Bernie Wunder for this video of the First Flight of N6242.  The 
>
We will be looking forward to the second flight. (on video).
Roger

KR> long but worth it

[rbaalman at cox.net]

Don't forget to clean the canopy.  
Recurrency training at it's best.
Roger
 "joe.kr2s.builder at juno.com"  wrote: 
>  What a beautiful day,