Re: KR> Canopy Saga continues

[Flesner via KRnet]

On 1/24/2020 9:11 PM, Craig Williams via KRnet wrote:

So here is what I have found.  Todds is now Aerocanopy in Indiantown FL.  They 
have Q1 and Q2 forms but the Q2 rear shape is round where the Dragonfly is more 
flat on the top and sides.


++

Have you considered using a Pulsar canopy.  I used the forward portion 
of a broken Pulsar canopy for my fixed windshield and it worked quite 
nicely.  I think it would have the shape you're looking for.


Larry Flesner


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KR> Canopy Saga continues

[Craig Williams via KRnet]

So here is what I have found.  Todds is now Aerocanopy in Indiantown FL.  They 
have Q1 and Q2 forms but the Q2 rear shape is round where the Dragonfly is more 
flat on the top and sides.  They will build a Dragonfly/KR2S form for $375 and 
then canopies would cost $675 each.  I am willing to go that route if there are 
a few folks that want to share the form cost.  Any takers?  The up side is once 
that form is done we all have a source for reasonably priced canopies.  

Craig
N886MJ

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Re: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold

[Stef den Boer via KRnet]

Mark,
See link below, we use a cragonfly canopy also. On my site there is also a 
discription how we did the locking system.
Good luck

Stef



http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2/styled-13/index.html






> Op 17 juni 2019 om 0:47 schreef mark jones via KRnet :
> 
> 
> Jeff,
> Thanks. This clears a lot of things up. The photos on your link below says
> a lot. One question I have and
> may have misinterpreted your sentence where you say you installed the
> canopy from the inside. I presume
> the 1/4 holes are to allow flox to flow through for gripping strength. So
> how did you hold the canopy up in place
> while the flox cured?
> 
> 
> Mark Jones (N771MJ)
> Oldsmar, FL
> 
> flyk...@gmail.com
> www.flykr2s.com
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 6:21 PM Jeff Scott via KRnet 
> wrote:
> 
> > Mark,
> >
> > I put a DragonFly canopy in the Rand KR-2S Top Deck molded canopy frame.
> > It has glass over foam stiffeners along the sides and a glass over foam
> > arch built into the back of the canopy frame to keep the frame rigid.  The
> > gas struts are bolted to aluminum plates that are floxed into the
> > glass/foam stiffeners along the inside edge below the canopy.
> >
> > I cut the canopy down to fit the frame, then slipped it into place from
> > the inside.  I used a pointed die grinder bit to bore 1/4" holes around the
> > perimeter of the canopy, then floxed popped it back into place in a bed of
> > thin flox, then floxed and smoothed inside as well.  Some pictures of the
> > canopy rails and arch are on my web site at <
> > http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/first%20flight/N1213W%20First%20Flight.html>.
> >
> > I would recommend final build up of the rail stiffeners after the canopy
> > is in place as I had to cut the top off from one of the rails to get the
> > canopy into place from the inside.  If you look at the photos, you'll also
> > note a glass/foam stiffener across the front of the canopy frame as well.
> > the front and back stiffeners, as well as the stiffeners along the canopy
> > rails on top of the longerons make the canopy frame rigid.  It has held
> > it's shape perfectly for 23 years now.
> >
> > The Dragonfly canopy itself is way oversized for the KR, but is flexible
> > enough that you can push it well forward to give yourself lots of headroom,
> > or well back to make a very low raked canopy like I did with mine.  You can
> > fit it to meet your needs.  I'm not sure where you find a D'fly canopy now
> > days, or what folks have been using on the newer KRs, but there should be
> > some flexibility to make it fit the frame.
> >
> > -Jeff Scott
> > North Arkansas
> >
> >
> >
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 3:54 PM
> > > From: "mark jones via KRnet" 
> > > To: KRnet 
> > > Cc: "mark jones" 
> > > Subject: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > > I am in need of your help if you have attached a premolded Rand canopy
> > > frame to the canopy and how did you stiffen up the assembly. Right now I
> > am
> > > torn as how to proceed with this step. This is totally different than the
> > > canopy frame I built on N886MJ.this is why I need your help.
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > >
> > > Mark Jones (N771MJ)
> > > Oldsmar, FL
> > >
> > > flyk...@gmail.com
> > > www.flykr2s.com
> >
> >
> > ___
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> > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
> > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
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> >
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Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see 
[http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2](http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2)

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Re: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold

[mark jones via KRnet]

Jeff,
Thanks. This clears a lot of things up. The photos on your link below says
a lot. One question I have and
may have misinterpreted your sentence where you say you installed the
canopy from the inside. I presume
the 1/4 holes are to allow flox to flow through for gripping strength. So
how did you hold the canopy up in place
while the flox cured?


Mark Jones (N771MJ)
Oldsmar, FL

flyk...@gmail.com
www.flykr2s.com


On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 6:21 PM Jeff Scott via KRnet 
wrote:

> Mark,
>
> I put a DragonFly canopy in the Rand KR-2S Top Deck molded canopy frame.
> It has glass over foam stiffeners along the sides and a glass over foam
> arch built into the back of the canopy frame to keep the frame rigid.  The
> gas struts are bolted to aluminum plates that are floxed into the
> glass/foam stiffeners along the inside edge below the canopy.
>
> I cut the canopy down to fit the frame, then slipped it into place from
> the inside.  I used a pointed die grinder bit to bore 1/4" holes around the
> perimeter of the canopy, then floxed popped it back into place in a bed of
> thin flox, then floxed and smoothed inside as well.  Some pictures of the
> canopy rails and arch are on my web site at <
> http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/first%20flight/N1213W%20First%20Flight.html>.
>
> I would recommend final build up of the rail stiffeners after the canopy
> is in place as I had to cut the top off from one of the rails to get the
> canopy into place from the inside.  If you look at the photos, you'll also
> note a glass/foam stiffener across the front of the canopy frame as well.
> the front and back stiffeners, as well as the stiffeners along the canopy
> rails on top of the longerons make the canopy frame rigid.  It has held
> it's shape perfectly for 23 years now.
>
> The Dragonfly canopy itself is way oversized for the KR, but is flexible
> enough that you can push it well forward to give yourself lots of headroom,
> or well back to make a very low raked canopy like I did with mine.  You can
> fit it to meet your needs.  I'm not sure where you find a D'fly canopy now
> days, or what folks have been using on the newer KRs, but there should be
> some flexibility to make it fit the frame.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> North Arkansas
>
>
>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 3:54 PM
> > From: "mark jones via KRnet" 
> > To: KRnet 
> > Cc: "mark jones" 
> > Subject: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold
> >
> > Hello All,
> > I am in need of your help if you have attached a premolded Rand canopy
> > frame to the canopy and how did you stiffen up the assembly. Right now I
> am
> > torn as how to proceed with this step. This is totally different than the
> > canopy frame I built on N886MJ.this is why I need your help.
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Mark Jones (N771MJ)
> > Oldsmar, FL
> >
> > flyk...@gmail.com
> > www.flykr2s.com
>
>
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Re: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

It is also probably worth noting there is a thin plywood plate fitted into the 
bottom of the canopy rail where it mates with the longeron to aid in stiffening 
the sides of the canopy frame.  The plywood plate was marked and cut to be a 
perfect match with the top of the longerons so the canopy frame would match the 
longerons.  The canopy frame was built and stiffened before I put the plexi in 
it.

-Jeff

-
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 5:20 PM
> From: "Jeff Scott via KRnet" 
> To: krnet@list.krnet.org
> Cc: "Jeff Scott" 
> Subject: Re: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold
>
> Mark,
>
> I put a DragonFly canopy in the Rand KR-2S Top Deck molded canopy frame.  It 
> has glass over foam stiffeners along the sides and a glass over foam arch 
> built into the back of the canopy frame to keep the frame rigid.  The gas 
> struts are bolted to aluminum plates that are floxed into the glass/foam 
> stiffeners along the inside edge below the canopy.
>
> I cut the canopy down to fit the frame, then slipped it into place from the 
> inside.  I used a pointed die grinder bit to bore 1/4" holes around the 
> perimeter of the canopy, then floxed popped it back into place in a bed of 
> thin flox, then floxed and smoothed inside as well.  Some pictures of the 
> canopy rails and arch are on my web site at 
> <http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/first%20flight/N1213W%20First%20Flight.html>.
>
> I would recommend final build up of the rail stiffeners after the canopy is 
> in place as I had to cut the top off from one of the rails to get the canopy 
> into place from the inside.  If you look at the photos, you'll also note a 
> glass/foam stiffener across the front of the canopy frame as well.  the front 
> and back stiffeners, as well as the stiffeners along the canopy rails on top 
> of the longerons make the canopy frame rigid.  It has held it's shape 
> perfectly for 23 years now.
>
> The Dragonfly canopy itself is way oversized for the KR, but is flexible 
> enough that you can push it well forward to give yourself lots of headroom, 
> or well back to make a very low raked canopy like I did with mine.  You can 
> fit it to meet your needs.  I'm not sure where you find a D'fly canopy now 
> days, or what folks have been using on the newer KRs, but there should be 
> some flexibility to make it fit the frame.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> North Arkansas
>
>
>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 3:54 PM
> > From: "mark jones via KRnet" 
> > To: KRnet 
> > Cc: "mark jones" 
> > Subject: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold
> >
> > Hello All,
> > I am in need of your help if you have attached a premolded Rand canopy
> > frame to the canopy and how did you stiffen up the assembly. Right now I am
> > torn as how to proceed with this step. This is totally different than the
> > canopy frame I built on N886MJ.this is why I need your help.
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Mark Jones (N771MJ)
> > Oldsmar, FL
> >
> > flyk...@gmail.com
> > www.flykr2s.com
>
>
> ___
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> https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
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> options.
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Re: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

Mark,

I put a DragonFly canopy in the Rand KR-2S Top Deck molded canopy frame.  It 
has glass over foam stiffeners along the sides and a glass over foam arch built 
into the back of the canopy frame to keep the frame rigid.  The gas struts are 
bolted to aluminum plates that are floxed into the glass/foam stiffeners along 
the inside edge below the canopy.

I cut the canopy down to fit the frame, then slipped it into place from the 
inside.  I used a pointed die grinder bit to bore 1/4" holes around the 
perimeter of the canopy, then floxed popped it back into place in a bed of thin 
flox, then floxed and smoothed inside as well.  Some pictures of the canopy 
rails and arch are on my web site at 
<http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/first%20flight/N1213W%20First%20Flight.html>.

I would recommend final build up of the rail stiffeners after the canopy is in 
place as I had to cut the top off from one of the rails to get the canopy into 
place from the inside.  If you look at the photos, you'll also note a 
glass/foam stiffener across the front of the canopy frame as well.  the front 
and back stiffeners, as well as the stiffeners along the canopy rails on top of 
the longerons make the canopy frame rigid.  It has held it's shape perfectly 
for 23 years now.

The Dragonfly canopy itself is way oversized for the KR, but is flexible enough 
that you can push it well forward to give yourself lots of headroom, or well 
back to make a very low raked canopy like I did with mine.  You can fit it to 
meet your needs.  I'm not sure where you find a D'fly canopy now days, or what 
folks have been using on the newer KRs, but there should be some flexibility to 
make it fit the frame.

-Jeff Scott
North Arkansas



> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 3:54 PM
> From: "mark jones via KRnet" 
> To: KRnet 
> Cc: "mark jones" 
> Subject: KR> Canopy to Rand Premold
>
> Hello All,
> I am in need of your help if you have attached a premolded Rand canopy
> frame to the canopy and how did you stiffen up the assembly. Right now I am
> torn as how to proceed with this step. This is totally different than the
> canopy frame I built on N886MJ.this is why I need your help.
> Thanks
>
>
> Mark Jones (N771MJ)
> Oldsmar, FL
>
> flyk...@gmail.com
> www.flykr2s.com


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KR> Canopy to Rand Premold

[mark jones via KRnet]

Hello All,
I am in need of your help if you have attached a premolded Rand canopy
frame to the canopy and how did you stiffen up the assembly. Right now I am
torn as how to proceed with this step. This is totally different than the
canopy frame I built on N886MJ.this is why I need your help.
Thanks


Mark Jones (N771MJ)
Oldsmar, FL

flyk...@gmail.com
www.flykr2s.com
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Re: KR> canopy and turtledeck

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

Thanks Chris ...

Bob Russell
Winnipeg Creative Wood Design
3027 Roblin Blvd.
Wpg. Mb.
R3R 0B8
204-981-0762

- Original Message -
From: Chris Gardiner via KRnet 
To: KRnet 
Cc: Chris Gardiner 
Sent: Sat, 30 Mar 2019 20:26:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: KR> canopy and turtledeck

Bob,
I have flaps and the rear of my seat is just 1/2” or so off the plywood floor , 
at the lowest point.
The RR canvas sling seat , I use , is hung on an aluminum tube on Adel clamps 
at the rear spar. The seat cushion is 2” astronaut memory foam that is quite 
comfortable.

I’ll try to photograph it tomorrow and sent a few pics.
My canopy is totally stock height.
Regards
Chris Gardiner


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 30, 2019, at 7:15 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> +++
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the taller canopy affecting airflow over the 
> tail.  My KR is longer but I have a rather tall canopy and standard tail 
> surfaces, no problem.
> 
> Hi Larry;
> Thanks for the info;
> 
> I was out at my hangar today and took a really good look at the seat height 
> and discovered that the back of the seat was about 1.5 inches above the top 
> of the rear spar. I think it had been reworked by someone at some point 
> because it looks like it was originally located close to the bottom of the 
> rear spar. I believe it was raised to accommodate the torque tube for the 
> flaps which appear to have been added after the initial build.
> 
> I removed the seat and did a modification to the fastening system for it and 
> and to the seat itself.  It looks like I can lower it about 2 inches, maybe  
> a bit more. so that will help.
> 
> I have been looking on the KrNet at some of the builds trying to find others 
> who have flaps to see how high their seat is off the bottom at the rear spar 
> but am having trouble finding pictures of that assembly. I know there are 
> quite a few guys who have flaps and I thought there may be a better way to 
> set up the linkage that would allow me to lower the seat even more. That 
> would save having to raise the turtle deck.
> 
> Anyway, if you or anyone else can direct me to pictures of that assembly that 
> others are using that would be helpful. Also, those with flaps, how high is 
> the rear of your seat off the bottom of the rear spar?
> 
> All in all it was great to spend some time working on the airplane even 
> though it was only +1 C today. I am kind of regretting that I am going to be 
> away for two weeks now that I have the building bug .
> 
> As always, thanks in advance  to all.
> Bob R
> Winnipeg
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
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Re: KR> canopy and turtledeck

[Chris Gardiner via KRnet]

Bob,
I have flaps and the rear of my seat is just 1/2” or so off the plywood floor , 
at the lowest point.
The RR canvas sling seat , I use , is hung on an aluminum tube on Adel clamps 
at the rear spar. The seat cushion is 2” astronaut memory foam that is quite 
comfortable.

I’ll try to photograph it tomorrow and sent a few pics.
My canopy is totally stock height.
Regards
Chris Gardiner


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 30, 2019, at 7:15 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> +++
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the taller canopy affecting airflow over the 
> tail.  My KR is longer but I have a rather tall canopy and standard tail 
> surfaces, no problem.
> 
> Hi Larry;
> Thanks for the info;
> 
> I was out at my hangar today and took a really good look at the seat height 
> and discovered that the back of the seat was about 1.5 inches above the top 
> of the rear spar. I think it had been reworked by someone at some point 
> because it looks like it was originally located close to the bottom of the 
> rear spar. I believe it was raised to accommodate the torque tube for the 
> flaps which appear to have been added after the initial build.
> 
> I removed the seat and did a modification to the fastening system for it and 
> and to the seat itself.  It looks like I can lower it about 2 inches, maybe  
> a bit more. so that will help.
> 
> I have been looking on the KrNet at some of the builds trying to find others 
> who have flaps to see how high their seat is off the bottom at the rear spar 
> but am having trouble finding pictures of that assembly. I know there are 
> quite a few guys who have flaps and I thought there may be a better way to 
> set up the linkage that would allow me to lower the seat even more. That 
> would save having to raise the turtle deck.
> 
> Anyway, if you or anyone else can direct me to pictures of that assembly that 
> others are using that would be helpful. Also, those with flaps, how high is 
> the rear of your seat off the bottom of the rear spar?
> 
> All in all it was great to spend some time working on the airplane even 
> though it was only +1 C today. I am kind of regretting that I am going to be 
> away for two weeks now that I have the building bug .
> 
> As always, thanks in advance  to all.
> Bob R
> Winnipeg
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/.
> Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options.
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Re: KR> canopy and turtledeck

[Randall Smith via KRnet]

I had flaps on my KR and if I did it over again I would’ve never put them on. 
Put the speed break underneath like some guys have done. The flap pretty much 
does nothing they’re so small. I test flew five KR’s back in the day they all 
had flaps and then none of them did anything to speak of. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2019, at 6:15 PM, Robert Russell via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> +++
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the taller canopy affecting airflow over the 
> tail.  My KR is longer but I have a rather tall canopy and standard tail 
> surfaces, no problem.
> 
> Hi Larry;
> Thanks for the info;
> 
> I was out at my hangar today and took a really good look at the seat height 
> and discovered that the back of the seat was about 1.5 inches above the top 
> of the rear spar. I think it had been reworked by someone at some point 
> because it looks like it was originally located close to the bottom of the 
> rear spar. I believe it was raised to accommodate the torque tube for the 
> flaps which appear to have been added after the initial build.
> 
> I removed the seat and did a modification to the fastening system for it and 
> and to the seat itself.  It looks like I can lower it about 2 inches, maybe  
> a bit more. so that will help.
> 
> I have been looking on the KrNet at some of the builds trying to find others 
> who have flaps to see how high their seat is off the bottom at the rear spar 
> but am having trouble finding pictures of that assembly. I know there are 
> quite a few guys who have flaps and I thought there may be a better way to 
> set up the linkage that would allow me to lower the seat even more. That 
> would save having to raise the turtle deck.
> 
> Anyway, if you or anyone else can direct me to pictures of that assembly that 
> others are using that would be helpful. Also, those with flaps, how high is 
> the rear of your seat off the bottom of the rear spar?
> 
> All in all it was great to spend some time working on the airplane even 
> though it was only +1 C today. I am kind of regretting that I am going to be 
> away for two weeks now that I have the building bug .
> 
> As always, thanks in advance  to all.
> Bob R
> Winnipeg
> 
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Re: KR> canopy and turtledeck

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

> +++

Bob,

I wouldn't worry about the taller canopy affecting airflow over the 
tail.  My KR is longer but I have a rather tall canopy and standard tail 
surfaces, no problem.

Hi Larry;
Thanks for the info;

I was out at my hangar today and took a really good look at the seat height and 
discovered that the back of the seat was about 1.5 inches above the top of the 
rear spar. I think it had been reworked by someone at some point because it 
looks like it was originally located close to the bottom of the rear spar. I 
believe it was raised to accommodate the torque tube for the flaps which appear 
to have been added after the initial build.

I removed the seat and did a modification to the fastening system for it and 
and to the seat itself.  It looks like I can lower it about 2 inches, maybe  a 
bit more. so that will help.

I have been looking on the KrNet at some of the builds trying to find others 
who have flaps to see how high their seat is off the bottom at the rear spar 
but am having trouble finding pictures of that assembly. I know there are quite 
a few guys who have flaps and I thought there may be a better way to set up the 
linkage that would allow me to lower the seat even more. That would save having 
to raise the turtle deck.

Anyway, if you or anyone else can direct me to pictures of that assembly that 
others are using that would be helpful. Also, those with flaps, how high is the 
rear of your seat off the bottom of the rear spar?

All in all it was great to spend some time working on the airplane even though 
it was only +1 C today. I am kind of regretting that I am going to be away for 
two weeks now that I have the building bug .

As always, thanks in advance  to all.
Bob R
Winnipeg

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Re: KR> canopy and turtledeck

[Flesner via KRnet]

What I am wondering is, if I raise the turtledeck and canopy, fairng in the 
area between the front deck and canopy frame to streamline and be pleasing to 
the eye, do I have to do anything to the rudder and horizontal stabilizer to 
reflect the added 3-4 inches of height of the turtledeck?
  I have spare mounts that I could use but that moves engine forward about 2 
inches or a bit more. That would allow me to attach a Diehl case and starter. 
The thing is of course the W+B will be way off. I was wondering if removing the 
battery from the firewall and mounting it further back in the fuselage would be 
the best way to try and get the W+B back in place. The other mod is also to 
swap the header tank ( one large tank) for a small header tank and put tanks in 
the stub wings as they are open currently, or into the wings themselves. I will 
be doing the tank mod anyway to prevent the CG moving around as fuel is burned.

Bob Russell
+++


Bob,

I wouldn't worry about the taller canopy affecting airflow over the 
tail.  My KR is longer but I have a rather tall canopy and standard tail 
surfaces, no problem.  I seem to recall a rule of thumb that calls for 1 
for 2, one foot of drop for 2 feet of length for the air to stay 
attached.  If I'm wrong on that someone correct me.


On the CG, if it is a standard KR, as I think you indicated in your 
post, worry more about it being tail heavy.  Wait till you're nearly 
done to see if you need something as heavy as a battery moved.  Moving 
more fuel aft to the stub wings will move the CG more rearward.  I put 
all my fuel in the outer wing panels, long and narrow, just 10 inches 
behind the forward spar.  From 25 USG full to empty, my CG moves forward 
1 inch.  My CG change is not noticeable with fuel burn.  The greater the 
distance, forward or aft, fuel is from ideal CG the greater the CG will 
change with fuel burn.  If your stub wing tanks are between the spars 
and hold considerable fuel you'll have to be careful of not being tail 
heavy on takeoff and then being nose heavy on landing.  The CG range of 
the KR is not that great.


Marty Roberts had a header tank and wing tanks and would pump from the 
wing tanks to the header in flight.  On his way to the Rough River 
Gathering in 1990 his pump failed and as he burned the header down the 
KR kept getting more tail heavy.  He indicated it was starting to get 
worrisome by the time he arrived.  Try to consider all the scenarios 
when making changes.


For example: I have wing tanks only, no engine driven fuel pump, two 
electric fuel pumps.  What happens if I lose my electrical buss?  Glide 
mode.  I installed a small 4 AH backup battery, separate switches, ckt 
breaker, etc. and it saved my bacon at 10 hours in to testing.   A flip 
of the switch kept the engine running.


Larry Flesner


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KR> canopy and turtledeck

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

Hi All; 
I know there has been some discussion on this previously and I did look in the 
archives. I found some info but just want to clarify a couple of things. I was 
worried about the canopy height on one of my projects and decided to measure 
the height on both projects I have. 

On Kr ... C -GSJS which is plans built and very true to the original concept, I 
have 17.5 inches from the seat back ( longeron height) to the bottom of the 
turtledeck. On Kr # 2 that same measurement is only 14 inches so no wonder my 
head hits the canopy. 
I was planning on making the turtledeck removable on this one anyway so am 
working on the best method to get a straight ,clean cut along the longeron and 
will follow the fastening methods used by a few of the guys who have removable 
decks. 

What I am wondering is, if I raise the turtledeck and canopy, fairng in the 
area between the front deck and canopy frame to streamline and be pleasing to 
the eye, do I have to do anything to the rudder and horizontal stabilizer to 
reflect the added 3-4 inches of height of the turtledeck? That is to say, will 
the added height interfere with the airflow over those surfaces? I also intend 
to make the HS wider and leave the elevator the same as it is now so if I have 
to do anything else, now is the time. 

The weather is getting a bit better up here in Canada and I am determined to 
get some progress made on both of these KRs. 

The other thing I am curious for feedback on is this. C-GSJS as I said is true 
to the original and has no starter. I would feel better if I were to add one to 
it. The magneto is fastened by way of the original X type of bracket and I 
don't think there is a way to put a starter in as it is close to the firewall.. 
6.5 inches firewall to front of engine mount. I have spare mounts that I could 
use but that moves engine forward about 2 inches or a bit more. That would 
allow me to attach a Diehl case and starter. The thing is of course the W+B 
will be way off. I was wondering if removing the battery from the firewall and 
mounting it further back in the fuselage would be the best way to try and get 
the W+B back in place. The other mod is also to swap the header tank ( one 
large tank) for a small header tank and put tanks in the stub wings as they are 
open currently, or into the wings themselves. I will be doing the tank mod 
anyway to prevent the CG moving around as fuel is burned. 

I have been doing a lot of epoxy work on tables that I build and am pretty 
comfortable with the West system now so want to get on these. 

As always, the expertise and advice of those on this KrNet is always 
appreciated and sought after. 



Bob Russell 
Winnipeg Creative Wood Design 
3027 Roblin Blvd. 
Wpg. Mb. 
R3R 0B8 
204-981-0762 

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Re: KR> canopy

[Joel LaRock via KRnet]

What do you want for the rudder n do u have a picture

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018, 23:00 Oscar Zuniga via KRnet 
wrote:

> I have a set of original KR retract gear, an original canopy, premolded
> engine cowlings (for the VW), a rudder, and other original KR2 parts from
> Rand Robinson.
>
> Located in Medford, Oregon... halfway between Portland and San Francisco.
> Contact me OFFLINE, not to this list, if you are interested in any of these.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
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Re: KR> canopy

[Gabriele Marini via KRnet]

Sono interessa
I'm interested in the canopy, can you send me a picture?  Gabriele Marini
gabri...@vetreriagorbini.it



Il giorno dom 21 ott 2018 alle ore 05:00 Oscar Zuniga via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> ha scritto:

> I have a set of original KR retract gear, an original canopy, premolded
> engine cowlings (for the VW), a rudder, and other original KR2 parts from
> Rand Robinson.
>
> Located in Medford, Oregon... halfway between Portland and San Francisco.
> Contact me OFFLINE, not to this list, if you are interested in any of these.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
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Re: KR> canopy

[Gabriele Marini via KRnet]

thanks, original kr2s smoky color - green like that of 15 years ago?

Il giorno sab 20 ott 2018 alle ore 19:43 donald january via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> ha scritto:

> I can supply you with a good one. PM sent
>
> On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 12:19 AM Gabriele Marini via KRnet <
> krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone, I need an original RR canopy, Who has one more?
> >
> > gabri...@vetreriagorbini.it
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Re: KR> Canopy

[Michael MacLeod via KRnet]

On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 1:49 AM Ken Henderson via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:

> All,
> I have been in communication with Gabriele since his first post and I think
> something must be getting lost in the translations or the email to Italy. I
> have sent him pics of a RR canopy and measurements and he asked me to send
> them again. Not sure what's going on. I have a spare canopy but not sure
> what it's worth or if this guy would want to pay what it would cost to ship
> to Italy.
> Just FYI. I kind of thought we were working on his problem until I saw this
> new post.
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KR> Canopy

[Ken Henderson via KRnet]

All,
I have been in communication with Gabriele since his first post and I think
something must be getting lost in the translations or the email to Italy. I
have sent him pics of a RR canopy and measurements and he asked me to send
them again. Not sure what's going on. I have a spare canopy but not sure
what it's worth or if this guy would want to pay what it would cost to ship
to Italy.
Just FYI. I kind of thought we were working on his problem until I saw this
new post.
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KR> canopy

[Oscar Zuniga via KRnet]

I have a set of original KR retract gear, an original canopy, premolded engine 
cowlings (for the VW), a rudder, and other original KR2 parts from Rand 
Robinson.

Located in Medford, Oregon... halfway between Portland and San Francisco.  
Contact me OFFLINE, not to this list, if you are interested in any of these.

Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
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Re: KR> canopy

[Lee Shook via KRnet]

Sorry to hijack request for canopy, computer illiterate. But does anyone have a 
rudder for a KR2S for sale? Thks in advance.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 20, 2018, at 5:32 AM, donald january via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> I can supply you with a good one. PM sent
> 
> On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 12:19 AM Gabriele Marini via KRnet <
> krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
>> Hi everyone, I need an original RR canopy, Who has one more?
>> 
>> gabri...@vetreriagorbini.it
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Re: KR> canopy

[donald january via KRnet]

I can supply you with a good one. PM sent

On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 12:19 AM Gabriele Marini via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Hi everyone, I need an original RR canopy, Who has one more?
>
> gabri...@vetreriagorbini.it
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KR> canopy

[Gabriele Marini via KRnet]

Hi everyone, I need an original RR canopy, Who has one more?

gabri...@vetreriagorbini.it
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Re: KR> Canopy pull up from aero loads

[Ppaulvsk via KRnet]

I'm keeping it simple.  I am using window sash latches like Joe Horton. The 
emergency release will be a device tied into the canopy hingepin which will be 
pulled and the canopy then can be ripped off.


Paul ViskBelleville Il.618-406-4705
 Original message From: Flesner via KRnet 
 Date: 6/11/18  6:10 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: inhisservice--- 
via KRnet  Cc: Flesner  Subject: 
Re: KR> Canopy pull up from aero loads 
On 6/11/2018 5:23 PM, inhisservice--- via KRnet wrote:
> In the coming month I will work out a latch to hold the canopy firmly in 
> place and check it with h-stab camera again.

+

Consider release in an emergency situation in your design.

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> Canopy pull up from aero loads

[Flesner via KRnet]

On 6/11/2018 5:23 PM, inhisservice--- via KRnet wrote:

In the coming month I will work out a latch to hold the canopy firmly in place 
and check it with h-stab camera again.


+

Consider release in an emergency situation in your design.

Larry Flesner


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KR> Canopy pull up from aero loads

[inhisservice--- via KRnet]

Larry,
 
I agree.  The age of GoPro is awesome for finding things one cannot see 
otherwise.  I never knew my canopy lifted that far, or even at all.
 
In the coming month I will work out a latch to hold the canopy firmly in place 
and check it with h-stab camera again.  If anyone out there has a good 
mechanism to do this for a side-mounted canopy, I am all ears.
 
Thank you for the point out.
 
iMs,
Zip
 
-Original Message-
From: "Flesner via KRnet" 
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2018 3:07pm
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: "Flesner" 
Subject: Re: KR> KR flyby = motivation for the day



> 
> KR2 motivation for your day. A KR2 flying at the beginning of the Heritage 
> Flight Museum's monthly fly day.
> 
> ++

Nice video.  It looks like the top rear edge of your canopy gets a 
pretty good lift at flight speeds.  Note the gap at speed.

Larry Flesner

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Re: KR> Canopy

[Joe Beyer via KRnet]

I have a wind screen for a KR-2. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 23, 2017, at 11:09 AM, Jason Brooks via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone that is parting out a KR2 have built canopy that they would
> sell?
> 
> -- 
> Jason Brooks
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KR> Canopy

[Jason Brooks via KRnet]

Does anyone that is parting out a KR2 have built canopy that they would
sell?

-- 
Jason Brooks
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Re: KR> Canopy Latch

[svd via KRnet]

Hi Mike,

I started out in ultralights 40 years ago.  I quite like them - their 
capabilities are often a lot more fun than just boring a hole through the sky 
for hours.  Additionally, 2-cycle engines have become pretty reliable.

Re: concerns about KR flight safety:

> KR's fly just fine with aft-CG.

vs 

> Two people in the cockpit make that tail heavy tendendy
> ten times worse…  The standard KR is a
> bear with two people in it.  


You can understand the concern.

Thanks for the note on the canopy latch.  Seems important and had to look it 
up.  

Do you think there’s any issue with inhibiting rescue?

For anyone else like me that was unfamiliar with the canopy latch, here’s the 
details - taken from:
http://www.krnet.org/newsletter/quarterly_2-16.pdf 


Tired to attach the detail to this email but if it doesn’t make it though you 
can see it in the files section of the KRaircraft Yahoo Group here:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/KRaircraft/files 


Canopy Safety Latch.pdf 


Cheers,
Owen
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Re: KR> Canopy

[Stef den Boer via KRnet]

Hi terry,
We ordered the canopy 2 inch longer at both sides. So we could make a smal
frame. Our headroom is oke.
Check how we made is http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2/styled-13/index.html
It is about the Same as mark langford made his one.
Good luck.
Stef


> Op 13 juni 2017 om 2:19 schreef Terry via KRnet :
> 
> 
> Currently own a basic KR2 with standard tip up canopy.  I have acquired a
> Dragonfly canopy and would love to use it.  It just looks better.  Any advice
> or issues that I may run into? Headroom issues
> 
> 
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Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

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KR> Canopy

[Terry via KRnet]

Currently own a basic KR2 with standard tip up canopy.  I have acquired a 
Dragonfly canopy and would love to use it.  It just looks better.  Any advice 
or issues that I may run into? Headroom issues


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KR> Canopy and plans needed

[Kevin Dean]

 blockquote, div.yahoo_quoted { margin-left: 0 !important; border-left:1px 
#715FFA solid !important; padding-left:1ex !important; background-color:white 
!important; }  I found a project located near me here in Missouri and brought 
it home this evening.
Complete except for canopy, manual, and cowlings.

Next items on my list are a canopy and plans/manual.
The canopy does not need to be in the frame but I do need the plexiglass bubble.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Kevin - KOZS


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

KR> canopy

[Stef den Boer]

Hi Joe,
We have save And easy system to lock the canopy, we Copied it from the PH-KRS
   I am sure it will work at your canopy to.
See canopy lock at my website.
Stef



> Op 18 oktober 2016 om 20:36 schreef Steven Bedford via KRnet
> :
> 
> 
> Joe wrote:
> 
> Hey Guys,
> "Life almost got in the way of getting the canopy mounted "
> 
> I am looking for ideas on how to latch my canopy.  Any pics or ideas,  I was
> thinking of using something like the ch650 system but I remember reading
> probably on this list that a handle protruding out the side of the aircraft
> caused a problem.  Would a handle on top at the rear also cause a problem? If
> someone with a better understanding could explain the aerodynamics. Thanks in
> advance. I generally don't answer responses to keep the list cleaner and
> thanks Mark for this list.
> 
> Steven Bedford
> Kr2s corvair builder
> Woodland Park Co
> s1bedford at msn.com
> 
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Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

KR> canopy

[Steven Bedford]

Joe wrote:

Hey Guys,
"Life almost got in the way of getting the canopy mounted "

I am looking for ideas on how to latch my canopy.  Any pics or ideas,  I was 
thinking of using something like the ch650 system but I remember reading 
probably on this list that a handle protruding out the side of the aircraft 
caused a problem.  Would a handle on top at the rear also cause a problem? If 
someone with a better understanding could explain the aerodynamics. Thanks in 
advance. I generally don't answer responses to keep the list cleaner and thanks 
Mark for this list.

Steven Bedford
Kr2s corvair builder
Woodland Park Co
s1bedford at msn.com

KR> canopy

[n357cj]

Hey Dan,
I am using many of the details from N357CJ that have served well for 11 years 
now. In the case of the canopy it will have a joggle on all edges that will be 
flush with what ever surface the canopy is meeting upon closing. That is about 
3/8" of over lap. Then on which ever surface is most convenient I will install 
a commercial ?stick on bulb door seal from the building industry. Sometimes 
called a smoke seal. It is usually available in black or white and compresses 
down to about 1/16". Following the installation instructions and applying to a 
glossy painted surface I have had very little trouble with it becoming damaged 
or wearing out.
?? ?You didn't ask but I think that in the picture you can see the way that I 
am latching the canopy this time. I made a 1/4" rod that travels thru several 
guides in the canopy frame and will penetrate the roll over bow of the turtle 
deck as a positive latch and will prevent any sucking up and gaps at the top of 
the canopy in flight.
Joe Horton, 
N357CJ
11 years since first flight on Oct 19th and 900 hours


- Original Message -
From: "KRnet" 
Cc: "Daniel Heath" 
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 5:43:52 AM
Subject: Re: KR> canopy

Very nice Joe. ?I really like the forward opening canopies. ?How do you plan
to have it sealed up when closed?

My Panther Building Documentation at PantherBuilder Web Site

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC

-Original Message-

canopy mounted 

KR> canopy

[Earl Klinker]

good job Joe


On 10/16/2016 6:54 PM, n357cj via KRnet wrote:
> Hey Guys,
> Life almost got in the way of getting the canopy mounted but I did get it 
> done and it balanced out and fit up pretty dang good. So now That all the top 
> deck stuff is all working I can start finishing everything from front to the 
> back.
> Joe Horton
> N357CJ
>
>
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KR> canopy

[Daniel Heath]

Very nice Joe.  I really like the forward opening canopies.  How do you plan
to have it sealed up when closed?

My Panther Building Documentation at PantherBuilder Web Site

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC

-Original Message-

canopy mounted 

KR> Canopy

[Robert Pesak]

Hay Joe,That canopy sure looks great, come to think of it, looks a lot like 
mine!

Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

KR> canopy

[n357cj]

Hey Guys,
Life almost got in the way of getting the canopy mounted but I did get it done 
and it balanced out and fit up pretty dang good. So now That all the top deck 
stuff is all working I can start finishing everything from front to the back.
Joe Horton
N357CJ
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KR> Canopy Picture (second try...)

[Matt Quimby]

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KR> Canopy Cutting

[Matt Quimby]

Just a quick note to say, I finally cut my canopy today, and after all the prep 
I did (and all the worrying) it turned out to be a non-event. Now to build the 
frame?

Matt Quimby
http://kr2pilot.blogspot.com/

KR> Canopy Choices

[Steve G.]

FYI - we have the dragonfly canopy available on our website.  About $135 less 
than direct through ACW. 

Steve Glover

Sent from my electronic leash. 

KR> Canopy Choices

[stefkr2 at kpnmail.nl]

HI,
We did also order our canopy from aircraft windshield co. A few years ago you 
have to call them, contacting via email was very bad.
The service and quality is very good. Check my webside. All the kr2s dutchies 
have this canopy, For our kr2s whe ordered 2 inch longer on the sides.
Good luck with your decision.
Stef
--
Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see   
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2




>Origineel Bericht
>Van : krnet at list.krnet.org
>Datum : 20/04/2016 13:48
>Aan : krnet at list.krnet.org
>Cc : vr6chrisvw at gmail.com
>Onderwerp : Re: KR> Canopy Choices
>
>From Mark Langford's page. I just recently got my canopy from them.
>
>Dragonfly canopies can be bought from:
>
>Aircraft Windshield Co
>10871 Kyle St.
>Los Alamitos, CA 90720-2410
>(562) 430-8108
>
>Chris Pryce
>Burlington, NJ
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>

KR> Canopy Choices

[Robert7721]

Matt,


Yes, I used the Aircraft Spruce KR2 canopy on my KR2S.  Photos are on my web 
site on the "Finishing" page, but I didn't note a lot of detail. I installed it 
exactly per plans instructions. 


www.robert7721.com


2.  I don't think there would be a huge disadvantage with the KR2 canopy 
regarding drag.  It is definitely physically smaller than the others and is 
better suited to small pilots and passengers. I am small at 5'5" and it works 
for me and passengers less that 5'10".  But when scratch building the aft deck, 
you can always build higher - but you get more drag.


3. Sorry, can't help on that. 


Rob Schmitt
N1852Z




-Original Message-
From: Matt Quimby via KRnet 
To: krnet 
Cc: Matt Quimby 
Sent: Tue, Apr 19, 2016 11:24 pm
Subject: KR> Canopy Choices

Hey all, I?m about ready to purchase a canopy and get the top half of this boat 
shaped. I really like the way those Dragonfly canopies look, but they don?t 
seem to be available anymore. Three questions:
1. Has anyone used the Aircraft Spruce KR2 canopy, and do you have pictures? 
What about other options?
2. The original canopy looks like it would cause excess drag due to the abrupt 
angle change where it meets the forward deck. Is this a valid reason to choose 
a different canopy, or is the performance difference probably too small to 
notice?
3. Does anyone have a canopy they want to get rid of? I know a guy who?s 
looking for one? :)

Matt Quimby
kr2pilot.blogspot.com
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KR> Canopy Choices

[Christopher Pryce]

>From Mark Langford's page. I just recently got my canopy from them.

Dragonfly canopies can be bought from:

Aircraft Windshield Co
10871 Kyle St.
Los Alamitos, CA 90720-2410
(562) 430-8108

Chris Pryce
Burlington, NJ

KR> Canopy Choices

[ml at n56ml.com]

I reread it...

> 2. The original canopy looks like it would cause excess drag due to the 
> abrupt angle change where it meets the forward deck.

The back side is more important than the front side.  The nicely rounded
surface guides the air around fine... the trailing edge being faired in
gently is the important thing.

I flew back from St. Louis Sunday trying to stretch my fuel, and was
burning 2.9 gph at 130 mph TAS (which is independent of winds, although
I did have a 25 mph HEAD wind).  This is 45 mpg, which ain't half bad. 
Going up I did about 147 burning 3.5 gph, or 42 mph.  I flew up at
10,500' and back at 9500'.  I like to keep a long glide path under me...

Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
ML "at" N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com

KR> Canopy Choices

[ml at n56ml.com]

Matt Quimby wrote:

> 1. Has anyone used the Aircraft Spruce KR2 canopy, and do you have pictures? 
> What about other options?
> 2. The original canopy looks like it would cause excess drag due to the 
> abrupt angle change where it meets the forward deck. Is this a valid reason 
> to choose a different canopy, or is the performance difference probably too 
> small to notice?<

If you see a canopy with a discontinuity in the flow lines to the aft
deck, it's because the canopy wasn't installed correctly to start with,
although the bubble doesn't necessarily make it easy. N891JF has the
stock canopy, and it's quite well faired into the aft deck (see
http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/ for photos).

Jim Hill used a Dragonfly canopy on his stock width KR2 and it fit fine,
if that's a concern.  It was kind of neat...it turned in just a bit on
the sides, so he had great visibility forward and out to the side as
well...his head wasn't confined to the fishbowl that you get with a
bubble canopy. Looking at it now, he must have cut at least 18" off the
back though, which I would have left there for even better visibility. 
See Jim Hill's canopy at http://www.n56ml.com/jhill.html.

 The Todds canopy is a blown canopy, so it's a bit on the bulbous side,
but the price is certainly right.  Steve Glover at nvAero does sell the
Dragonfly canopy.  I used a Dragonfly on my first plane, and that's what
I'll use on my next plane, if it's a two seater.  That's at
http://www.n56ml.com/kcf.html.

Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
ML "at" N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com

KR> Canopy Choices

[Pete Klapp]

Matt
Contact Todd's Canopies @954-579-0874, they make Dragonfly canopies. I used one 
on my KR-2S as I made my fuselage 5" wider than stock. There service is great 
and their canopies are well made.
Pete Klapp, building N729PK,
Canton,OH

> Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2016 00:23:48 -0400
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: KR> Canopy Choices
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: crazymonkey16 at ptd.net
> 
> Hey all, I?m about ready to purchase a canopy and get the top half of this 
> boat shaped. I really like the way those Dragonfly canopies look, but they 
> don?t seem to be available anymore. Three questions:
> 1. Has anyone used the Aircraft Spruce KR2 canopy, and do you have pictures? 
> What about other options?
> 2. The original canopy looks like it would cause excess drag due to the 
> abrupt angle change where it meets the forward deck. Is this a valid reason 
> to choose a different canopy, or is the performance difference probably too 
> small to notice?
> 3. Does anyone have a canopy they want to get rid of? I know a guy who?s 
> looking for one? :)
> 
> Matt Quimby
> kr2pilot.blogspot.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Canopy Choices

[Matt Quimby]

Hey all, I?m about ready to purchase a canopy and get the top half of this boat 
shaped. I really like the way those Dragonfly canopies look, but they don?t 
seem to be available anymore. Three questions:
1. Has anyone used the Aircraft Spruce KR2 canopy, and do you have pictures? 
What about other options?
2. The original canopy looks like it would cause excess drag due to the abrupt 
angle change where it meets the forward deck. Is this a valid reason to choose 
a different canopy, or is the performance difference probably too small to 
notice?
3. Does anyone have a canopy they want to get rid of? I know a guy who?s 
looking for one? :)

Matt Quimby
kr2pilot.blogspot.com

KR> Canopy/Seat

[laser147 at juno.com]

However you builders do it - sling, fiberglass, wood, aluminum,
combination of these, whatever - do a good job making it in such a way
that there will never be any possibility of something tearing loose or
breaking.  There's been several instances of seats breaking during high-G
pull-outs - showing off in front of a crowd at a fly-in or just doing one
down the runway on a Saturday afternoon.  Taking a passenger for a ride
and giving them a little thrill with the speed and unusual sensation of
feeling gravity tugging at you as the pilot pulls some G's on climb-out
after the pass.   If the seat is not strong enough to withstand the G's
it can break or tear loose from it's attachment point and the weight
comes down on the control wires.  

Sparky witnessed this happening at one of the early fly-in's.  I want to
say "Pope Valley" as the location but Sparky would know for sure.  
Somebody (Sparky remembers their names and was there and has a better
memory than me in any case) . . . somebody was giving somebody else a
thrill ride and they both ended up dead, right in front of everyone. 
I've heard of KR seat failure causing this type of accident on several
other occasions.  It's only thanks to the good luck I've always had with
flying that it didn't happen to me when retrieving my new plane from
Omaha.  I have an aluminum seat that was originally attached to the front
spar with eight screws.  After getting the plane back to SEE from MLE, I
was horrified to discover the seat bottom was hanging by two remaining
screws with very elongated holes.  Over the years preceeding this flight,
the seat had pulled loose from the other six screws and was barely
hanging with the remaining two.  Had I encountered just one good solid
thump when flying over those mountains of Wyoming and Utah I wouldn't be
writing this now.  I used up a trememdous amount of luck on that trip.  

However you design your seats, it's extremely important that it be built
so strongly that what has happened to others and almost happened to me,
can never happen.  It might take many years down the road for it to
surprise someone but if the seat is built with this possibility in mind
it should never happen.  

I not only have re-attached my aluminum seat bottom as Ken Cottle
originally built it, but have also put spacers between the floor of the
fuselage and the bottom of the seat.  These spacers make it impossible
for the seat to ever drop onto the cables.  This I did very early on
after getting the plane home.  Also re-built the seat back which was
mangled beyond recognition.  I've also put spacers below my baggage
insert behind the seat.  Ken built an aluminum channel into the insert
that protects the cables from contact but I've put spacers between the
bottom of the insert and the floor of the fuselage just to help support
the insert and whatever I happen to have in it.  I do load that thing up
when travelling and it's so odd - it hardly has any effect at all on CG,
even with the header tank almost empty.  I still don't understand how
that could be but the weight in the back is hardly noticible.  Takes a
little longer to get the tail up when taking off, and makes it easier to
get the tail down when landing, otherwise there's very little difference.
 I vividly recall what a bear my first KR was with two people in it. 
Extremely aft CG with dramatic consequences in stick sensitivity - but
that has not been the case with N335KC.  Of course, I never have two
people in this single place airplane but the extra weight I do put in it
goes to the rear instead of next to me so you'd think it would result in
similar unpleasant flight characteristics.  But nope, it flies pretty
much like normal no matter how much stuff I stick back there.  Don't know
why.  It's just a nice flying plane.

I recently replaced one of the baggage insert spacers with a spare tire
and tube - something I should have done a long time ago.  Tear up a tire
when on the road and finding a tire the right size can take some days. 
As I'm writing this I'm realizing I ought to put another tire and tube on
the other side - put something useful there instead of an otherwise
useless spacer.  That tire is not doing any good sitting in the hangar so
might as well use it as a spacer.  Actually I can put both - tires and
spacers - to help support the baggage insert so that's now on my to-do
list.  

Speaking of my to-do list, the subject of re-torqueing head studs came up
some months back and even though a local VW shop fundi told me head studs
don't need to be re-torqued once the VW is put back together, when the
subject came up on this forum quite a while back I thought to myself why
not check my stud bolts?  I eventually did.  The old VW fundi was
correct.  I had two studs about half a click loose - in other words,
instead of 18 ft. lbs. they were probably at 17.  This was after about
100 hours of operation since I'd put the heads back on.  

You have to take the rocker arm shafts off to get to all 

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Randy Smith]

Look on line for memory foam. After wading thru all the other things that came 
up I found memory foam at a good price. I can't find the receipt but it ran 
about $135. for enough to do 4 seats in my C310. 


 On Sunday, October 4, 2015 8:57 PM, Phillip Hill via KRnet  wrote:


 Trampoline fabric makes for a good sling seat.

On Sun, Oct 4, 2015 at 8:28 PM, peter via KRnet 
wrote:

> Memory foam is becoming universal. I find it in mattress toppers in the
> Goodwill aviation store. Pillows too. There are many grades of firmness.
> Put a layer of firm on the bottom, softest on top. Peter
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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KR> Canopy/Seat

[peter]

Memory foam is becoming universal. I find it in mattress toppers in the 
Goodwill aviation store. Pillows too. There are many grades of firmness. Put a 
layer of firm on the bottom, softest on top. Peter

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Chris Gardiner]

Joe,
RR was Rand Robinson at the time. Now NVAero is the KR  source for parts. Not 
sure if they sell this sling seat part. Check their web site.
The sling seat is very comfortable and lightweight for 2 people.
The foam is available from  Wicks Supply. Just search under "seat foam"
It's  a bit expensive but well worth it.
Chris G
KR2S

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 4, 2015, at 6:25 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Cris,
> What is RR?
> How comfortable is the sling with 2 people?
> Where did you get the memory foam?
> 
> 
> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Chris Gardiner via KRnet  
> Date: 10/04/2015  5:15 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
> To: KRnet  
> Cc: Chris Gardiner  
> Subject: Re: KR> Canopy/Seat 
> 
> Joe,
> I use the RR canvas sling seat and a 2 inch memory foam cushion that conforms 
> to my butt as it warms up .
> At 5 foot 10 , I have an inch or so to the canopy with this set up.
> Regards
> Chris Gardiner
> KR2S
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Phillip Hill]

Trampoline fabric makes for a good sling seat.

On Sun, Oct 4, 2015 at 8:28 PM, peter via KRnet 
wrote:

> Memory foam is becoming universal. I find it in mattress toppers in the
> Goodwill aviation store. Pillows too. There are many grades of firmness.
> Put a layer of firm on the bottom, softest on top. Peter
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Chris Gardiner]

Joe,
I use the RR canvas sling seat and a 2 inch memory foam cushion that conforms 
to my butt as it warms up .
At 5 foot 10 , I have an inch or so to the canopy with this set up.
Regards
Chris Gardiner
KR2S


Sent from my iPad

>  What do you use?
> 
> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC 

KR> Canopy/Seat

[bjoenunley]

Cris,
What is RR?
How comfortable is the sling with 2 people?
Where did you get the memory foam?


Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

 Original message 
From: Chris Gardiner via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 10/04/2015  5:15 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KRnet  
Cc: Chris Gardiner  
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy/Seat 

Joe,
I use the RR canvas sling seat and a 2 inch memory foam cushion that conforms 
to my butt as it warms up .
At 5 foot 10 , I have an inch or so to the canopy with this set up.
Regards
Chris Gardiner
KR2S

KR> Canopy/Seat

[bjoenunley]

I pulled out my beatifully apolstered seat with its plush thick comfortable 
cusion. ?I put a plywood board down as the seat and I have plenty of head and 
leg room. ?
I welcome you in joining me as I say goodbye to my beautiful cusion and hello 
to something more functional.
In my minimax I use one of those memory foam pillows to sit on.?
?What do you use?

Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

 Original message 
From: "T. W. Norman via KRnet"  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 10/02/2015  10:17 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org 
Cc: "T. W. Norman"  
Subject: KR> Canopy/Seat 



Good evening,



I've been able to finish my seats, and I am very pleased with the
results.However (you know how it is when someone says "however") I sat in
the airplane (and, yes, I'll admit to making airplane noises too) and I
lowered the canopy-the result was needing to cock my head to the right in
order to close it completely.

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Mac McConnell-Wood]

I built it myself Trevor, out of foam ,glass and plywood formers.
I lowered it to suit my butt -you could do the same.
I had to proof load it to convince our nit-picky eaa.it was up to the job.
Got a pic somewhere if you're still interested..
Mac

On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 7:47 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet 
wrote:

> hi mac, how much did you lower it
>
> also, is that  bought seat?
>
>
>
> Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 07:16:15 +0100
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org
> Subject: Re: KR> Canopy/Seat
> From: krnet at list.krnet.org
> CC: mac.xm657 at gmail.com
>
> This is how I did mine Trevor-Just lower the bucket to fit.
> I'm 5ft 9 and it worked for me.
> All the best.
>
> Mac UK
>
> On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 4:17 AM, T. W. Norman via KRnet <
> krnet at list.krnet.org
> > wrote:
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Chris Prata]

hi mac, how much did you lower it

also, is that  bought seat?



List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2015 07:16:15 +0100
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy/Seat
From: krnet at list.krnet.org
CC: mac.xm657 at gmail.com

This is how I did mine Trevor-Just lower the bucket to fit.
I'm 5ft 9 and it worked for me.
All the best.

Mac UK

On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 4:17 AM, T. W. Norman via KRnet  wrote:  

KR> Canopy/Seat

[Mac McConnell-Wood]

This is how I did mine Trevor-Just lower the bucket to fit.
I'm 5ft 9 and it worked for me.
All the best.

Mac UK

On Sat, Oct 3, 2015 at 4:17 AM, T. W. Norman via KRnet  wrote:

>
>
> Good evening,
>
>
>
> I've been able to finish my seats, and I am very pleased with the
> results.However (you know how it is when someone says "however") I sat in
> the airplane (and, yes, I'll admit to making airplane noises too) and I
> lowered the canopy-the result was needing to cock my head to the right in
> order to close it completely.
>
>
>
> Now, my question is three-fold:
> First, the seat itself is kind of like Mark Langford's in the design and
> installation of the base product. Where it differs is the upholstery adds
> about 3 inches to my height. Now, I'm only 5'5" so I should fit nicely in
> the aircraft. So, my first question is should I recess the seat farther
> down
> so that it's lower than the aft spar? It would mean re-building the seats
> from scratch because of how the supports are developed. There is no
> structural supports on the floor of the aircraft at all (which presented
> the
> challenge to begin with).
>
> Secondly, What are people's thoughts about raising the canopy? Has anyone
> ever tried it? What trouble am I looking at to do this?
> Thirdly, instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, how would one go about
> reclining the seat so that I can have more head clearance without losing
> visibility?
>
>
>
> In this situation, what would you guys recommend? Any of you found that
> you're too tall for the setup? How did you overcome that?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Trevor
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>
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KR> Canopy/Seat

[bjoenunley]

I sat in my plane for the first time a few weeks ago and ran into the same 
thing. ?I am looking at raising my dash board. ?This will give me more leg room 
to slide forward in the seat. ?I won't be lowering my seat because of control 
cables. ?I really like my custom seat cushion. ?My SITuation is very similar to 
yours.??
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

 Original message 
From: "T. W. Norman via KRnet"  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 10/02/2015  10:17 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org 
Cc: "T. W. Norman"  
Subject: KR> Canopy/Seat 



Good evening,



I've been able to finish my seats, and I am very pleased with the
results.However (you know how it is when someone says "however") I sat in
the airplane (and, yes, I'll admit to making airplane noises too) and I
lowered the canopy-the result was needing to cock my head to the right in
order to close it completely.



Now, my question is three-fold:
First, the seat itself is kind of like Mark Langford's in the design and
installation of the base product. Where it differs is the upholstery adds
about 3 inches to my height. Now, I'm only 5'5" so I should fit nicely in
the aircraft. So, my first question is should I recess the seat farther down
so that it's lower than the aft spar? It would mean re-building the seats
from scratch because of how the supports are developed. There is no
structural supports on the floor of the aircraft at all (which presented the
challenge to begin with).

Secondly, What are people's thoughts about raising the canopy? Has anyone
ever tried it? What trouble am I looking at to do this?
Thirdly, instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, how would one go about
reclining the seat so that I can have more head clearance without losing
visibility?



In this situation, what would you guys recommend? Any of you found that
you're too tall for the setup? How did you overcome that?



Thanks!


Trevor

KR> Canopy/Seat

[T. W. Norman]

Good evening,



I've been able to finish my seats, and I am very pleased with the
results.However (you know how it is when someone says "however") I sat in
the airplane (and, yes, I'll admit to making airplane noises too) and I
lowered the canopy-the result was needing to cock my head to the right in
order to close it completely.



Now, my question is three-fold:
First, the seat itself is kind of like Mark Langford's in the design and
installation of the base product. Where it differs is the upholstery adds
about 3 inches to my height. Now, I'm only 5'5" so I should fit nicely in
the aircraft. So, my first question is should I recess the seat farther down
so that it's lower than the aft spar? It would mean re-building the seats
from scratch because of how the supports are developed. There is no
structural supports on the floor of the aircraft at all (which presented the
challenge to begin with).

Secondly, What are people's thoughts about raising the canopy? Has anyone
ever tried it? What trouble am I looking at to do this?
Thirdly, instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, how would one go about
reclining the seat so that I can have more head clearance without losing
visibility?



In this situation, what would you guys recommend? Any of you found that
you're too tall for the setup? How did you overcome that?



Thanks!


Trevor

KR> Canopy hinge

[Mac McConnell-Wood]

One I was told about by the builder in W Australia.He taxied out with
his side mounted canopy int the part latched position to get some airflow
thru the cockpit.
Forgot about it till he took off, and became aware of it by the extra noise.
Tried to close it but the lift generated by the canopy (1/3 total lift I
was told)tore it out of his grip and smashed it against the starboard stub
wing.
Stalled in- I saw the results -broke main spar  -extra foam in his seat
saved him.
Brave soul built anotheris he still around Phil?

Mac

On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 4:10 PM, Parley T Byington via KRnet <
krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Date: May 13,2015
> Subject: Canopy hinge location
>
> Joe;
>
> When I was starting to test my Kr-2, stock built with initial canopy mount
> on the right side, I experienced a mishap which ended up costing me a new
> canopy and many more hours of work to repair.  I was trailering my Kr-2 out
> to the Eldorado dry lake south of Boulder City Nevada to perform taxi tests
> and get some experience with the brakes, ground handling, engine/prop
> performance, etc.
>
> While my bird was on the trailer and almost at the dry lake a large truck
> passed me, I was going about 35 mph, and the wind blew open the canopy and
> promptly tore it off the aircraft. The plexiglass canopy, of course, broke
> beyond repair resulting in the cost and time involved to build a
> replacement.
>
> I decided that this was a good safety lesson for me and rebuilt the canopy
> assembly with the hinge point being on the front edge, the canopy now opens
> from the rear.  I figured that if I ever forgot to properly latch the
> canopy on takeoff, the slip stream would keep the canopy closed instead of
> ripping it off and possibly damaging the tail/rudder and causing loss of
> control.
>
> I have had one incident when the canopy latches were not secured prior to
> takeoff and all that happened was the canopy opened about 1/2 inch in
> flight, I was quickly able to lock the canopy down without incident while
> flying the aircraft, the only damage was to my adrenalin gland from the
> massive amount it put out when the canopy opened that 1/2 inch, it really
> startled me.
>
> The canopy is very easy to remove just by pulling the piano hinge wire out
> one side and with the latches in the UN position, the canopy can be lifted
> straight up and off.  I do not own a parachute and have never flown my bird
> while wearing one, my biggest concern about the canopy is how to get out in
> case of a nose over on the ground but then the location of the hinge
> wouldn?t cure that problem anyway.
>
> Hope this information is useful to those trying to decide where to hinge
> their canopy.
>
> Thanks
> Parley Byington
> N54PB Kr-2 (built to plans conventional with retracts)
> byington1954 at embarqmail.com
> Henderson, Nevada USA
>
>
> On May 12, 2015, at 19:58, bjoenunley via KRnet 
> wrote:
>
> > My canopy is rear sliding.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > 'I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR shape."
> > Joe Horton
> >
> > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
> change options
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Canopy hinge

[Mac McConnell-Wood]

Just reminded me2 side hinged canopies that I know of , opened in
flight with really bad consequences -i.a total write off and near fatal.

Mac Wood

On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 10:22 AM, n357cj via KRnet 
wrote:

> Yep, I knew that - I stand corrected, Sorry-- but the question was are
> there other canopy options for PAul to consider and the answer is a
> resounding yes.
> Joe Horton
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "bjoenunley via KRnet" 
> To: "n357cj via KRnet" 
> Cc: "bjoenunley" 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 10:58:04 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> Canopy hinge
>
> My canopy is rear sliding.
>
> Joe
>
> 'I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR shape."
> Joe Horton
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Canopy Hinge

[laser147 at juno.com]

I agree with everyone that a forward hinged canopy is safest and a better
idea for several other reasons (although a rear-sliding canopy is
probably even better).  Mine is side-hinged but I've never had any
incidents with it.  One reason perhaps is I have a printed question on
the lip of the panel right in front of my eyes that says "Canopy Locked?"
 I don't like written check lists so I ignore that question, even though
I printed it out and put it there, but just in case I ever do forget to
lock the canopy before takeoff I have a neato piece of thin, flexible
aluminum than dangles down from the canopy frame,  It curves inward on
the bottom and has a slot in the center that slides down over a screw on
the longeron.  I think a lot of KR's probably have the same thing - it
wasn't my idea . . . came with the plane.  After unlatching the canopy I
have to manually pull this piece inward so it will clear the screw so I
can raise the canopy.  It seems to be a foolproof back-up against taking
off with an unlatched canopy.  It's very simple and effective.   

Mike
KSEE


Forget the iPhone 6
1 little-known Apple supplier holds wealth-changing growth potential.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/55538ac5ca79bac5293bst01vuc

KR> Canopy hinge

[Parley T Byington]

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: May 13,2015
Subject: Canopy hinge location

Joe;

When I was starting to test my Kr-2, stock built with initial canopy mount on 
the right side, I experienced a mishap which ended up costing me a new canopy 
and many more hours of work to repair.  I was trailering my Kr-2 out to the 
Eldorado dry lake south of Boulder City Nevada to perform taxi tests and get 
some experience with the brakes, ground handling, engine/prop performance, etc. 
 

While my bird was on the trailer and almost at the dry lake a large truck 
passed me, I was going about 35 mph, and the wind blew open the canopy and 
promptly tore it off the aircraft. The plexiglass canopy, of course, broke 
beyond repair resulting in the cost and time involved to build a replacement.  

I decided that this was a good safety lesson for me and rebuilt the canopy 
assembly with the hinge point being on the front edge, the canopy now opens 
from the rear.  I figured that if I ever forgot to properly latch the canopy on 
takeoff, the slip stream would keep the canopy closed instead of ripping it off 
and possibly damaging the tail/rudder and causing loss of control.

I have had one incident when the canopy latches were not secured prior to 
takeoff and all that happened was the canopy opened about 1/2 inch in flight, I 
was quickly able to lock the canopy down without incident while flying the 
aircraft, the only damage was to my adrenalin gland from the massive amount it 
put out when the canopy opened that 1/2 inch, it really startled me.

The canopy is very easy to remove just by pulling the piano hinge wire out one 
side and with the latches in the UN position, the canopy can be lifted straight 
up and off.  I do not own a parachute and have never flown my bird while 
wearing one, my biggest concern about the canopy is how to get out in case of a 
nose over on the ground but then the location of the hinge wouldn?t cure that 
problem anyway.

Hope this information is useful to those trying to decide where to hinge their 
canopy.

Thanks
Parley Byington
N54PB Kr-2 (built to plans conventional with retracts)
byington1954 at embarqmail.com
Henderson, Nevada USA


On May 12, 2015, at 19:58, bjoenunley via KRnet  wrote:

> My canopy is rear sliding. 
> 
> Joe
> 
> 'I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR shape."
> Joe Horton
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Canopy hinge

[n357cj]

Yep, I knew that - I stand corrected, Sorry-- but the question was are there 
other canopy options for PAul to consider and the answer is a resounding yes.
Joe Horton

- Original Message -
From: "bjoenunley via KRnet" 
To: "n357cj via KRnet" 
Cc: "bjoenunley" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 10:58:04 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy hinge

My canopy is rear sliding.?

Joe

'I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR shape."
Joe Horton

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
options

KR> Canopy hinge

[bjoenunley]

I'm not promoting flying with a parachute, ?I don't. Interesting story though, 
I worked with a test pilot that flew with a parachute. He had a plane that got 
into flutter. He said that the plane just disintegrated around him (not a KR2). 
?Luckily he had his parachute on and landed safely on the ground.?

Joe
Florida


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message From: Paul Visk via KRnet 
 Date:05/12/2015  9:26 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KRnet  Cc: Paul Visk 
 Subject: Re: KR> Canopy hinge 
I'm with Mark L. on not opening the canopy in 
flight.+++

A decision to jump out insted of trying to land is not alway due to structural 
failure. I remember a conversation I had with Joe about how desolate it was out 
west flying to Chino. I know it's always in the back of our minds. What would I 
do if my engine quit?  You might think.  If I only had a parachute.  Because 
there's no place to even attempt to land. 

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705
___
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To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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options

KR> Canopy hinge

[bjoenunley]

My canopy is rear sliding.?

Joe

'I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR shape."
Joe Horton

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

KR> Canopy hinge

[Steve G.]

A guy in Kansas bought it. We tried to find it to but it back but never got an 
answer. 

Steve Glover

Sent from my iPhone 6

On May 12, 2015, at 12:59, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet  
wrote:

>> "I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR
> shape."
> 
> Steve Glover had one for sale a couple years ago (or less . . . time is
> becoming more fluid as I get older) that had a rear-sliding canopy that
> was really the cat's meow.  I kept pictures of it as it was one of the
> best looking KR's I've ever seen.  I must have asked Steve whatever
> happened to this KR but I don't remember what he said.  Pictures
> attached.  
> 
> Mike
> KSEE
> 
> 
> 
> Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
> http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Canopy hinge

[laser147 at juno.com]

> "I don't think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR
shape."

Steve Glover had one for sale a couple years ago (or less . . . time is
becoming more fluid as I get older) that had a rear-sliding canopy that
was really the cat's meow.  I kept pictures of it as it was one of the
best looking KR's I've ever seen.  I must have asked Steve whatever
happened to this KR but I don't remember what he said.  Pictures
attached.  

Mike
KSEE



Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2
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KR> Canopy hinge

[Paul Visk]

I'm with Mark L. on not opening the canopy in?
flight.+++

A decision to jump out insted of trying to land is not alway due to structural 
failure. I remember a conversation I had with Joe about how desolate it was out 
west flying to Chino. I know it's always in the back of our minds. What would I 
do if my engine quit? ?You might think. ?If I only had a parachute. ?Because 
there's no place to even attempt to land.?

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705

KR> canopy hinges.

[Paul Visk]

I'm with Mark L. on not opening the canopy in?
flight.? I'll give a third option, similar to?
Mark Jones but with more roll over?
protection. #

I like the rollover protection. I made a 1.5" fwd Turtle deck bulkhead out of 
carbon fiber and foam. ?Boy! Is this thing strong. I stood on just the bar at 
220 lbs. I know it would even take a lot more weight then that. See pic

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705
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KR> Canopy hinge

[Ray Fuenzalida]

WE JUST HAD A MOTOR GLIDER LOSE HIS SIDE HINGED CANOPY IN FLIGHT.  Gashed the 
fuselage, could have taken the tail off.  He managed to land safely- barely.  
Definitely go with front hinge.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Paul Visk via KRnet  wrote:

>I'm trying to decide on which way to hinge my canopy. I know the currant trend 
>is to mont it from the front. ?But I can't get over the inability to open the 
>canopy in flight if you need to jump out.
>Is anyone putting with a side hinge in or is everyone hinging from the front?
>
>Paul Visk
>Belleville Il.
>618-406-4705
>___
>Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
>please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
>options

KR> Canopy hinge

[n357cj]

Paul,
There are two other possibilities off the top of my head. I have seen the 
foreword lifting canopy that basically has 4 attach points and lifts foreword 
and up as a parallelogram. The other is a foreword sliding canopy. I don't 
think rear sliding has been done or is practical for KR shape.
Joe Horton

- Original Message -
From: "Paul Visk via KRnet" 
To: "KRnet" 
Cc: "Paul Visk" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 8:10:43 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy hinge

Thanks for the replays guys. Mark, you bring up some points I didn't think of.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.

KR> Canopy hinge

[Flesner]

>. I know the currant trend is to mont it from 
>the front. ? But I can't get over the inability 
>to open the canopy in flight if you need to jump out.

++

I'm with Mark L. on not opening the canopy in 
flight.  I'll give a third option, similar to 
Mark Jones but with more roll over 
protection.  https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8669.JPG

I have a 1 inch thick windshield bow and a one 
inch thick turtle deck bow.  The gull wing door 
opens approximately 60 % of the cockpit for easy 
entry and exit.  The right side panel is easily 
removable for maintenance or easily broken out in 
case of a roll over.  How many options would you like?

Larry Flesner

KR> Canopy hinge

[Paul Visk]

Thanks for the replays guys. Mark, you bring up some points I didn't think of.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705

 Original message From: Paul Visk via KRnet 
 Date:05/11/2015  9:44 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KR EMAIL BOARD  Cc: Paul 
Visk  Subject: KR> Canopy hinge 
I'm trying to decide on which way to hinge my canopy. I know the currant 
trend is to mont it from the front.  But I can't get over the inability to open 
the canopy in flight if you need to jump out.
Is anyone putting with a side hinge in or is everyone hinging from the front?

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705
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KR> Canopy hinge

[Mark Langford]

Paul Visk wrote:

 >> I'm trying to decide on which way to hinge my canopy. I know the 
currant trend is to mount it from the front.  But I can't get over the 
inability to open the canopy in flight if you need to jump out.
Is anyone putting with a side hinge in or is everyone hinging from the 
front?<<

Are you going to wear a parachute every time you fly?  I doubt it.  I 
couldn't wear a parachute in N891JF if my life depended on it (and I 
don't think it does).  Keep in mind that inflight structural or control 
failures in these planes are VERY rare.  You'd do far better to 
concentrate on how to get the plane on the ground safely, or at least 
under control, rather than trying to bail out.

Consider that if you take off with one latch disconnected (or even both) 
the forward hinging canopy will almost close itself...it'll hover maybe 
an inch over the longeron at the rear, but it will be in equilibrium and 
stay more or less closed.  if you take off with a side hinged canopy 
unlatched, it will likely slam open, killing lift on the right wing, and 
stall, if on takeoff.  This is basically  what happened to Allen Buzza 
in Australia.  Fortunately he survived and went on the rebuild the 
plane, and is working to finish another.

I almost lost the side-hinged canopy on N891JF the first time I started 
the engine and didn't have it latched.  That's when I decided to make it 
front hinged.

Just some food for thought.  I could go on, but it's past my bedtime...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> Canopy hinge

[Mark Jones]

Paul,
Here is my version :
http://flykr2s.com/gullwing.html
http://flykr2s.com/gullwingdoor.html
http://flykr2s.com/doorspring.html


Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net
Web: www.flykr2s.com



-Original Message- 
From: Paul Visk via KRnet
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2015 9:44 PM
To: KR EMAIL BOARD
Cc: Paul Visk
Subject: KR> Canopy hinge

I'm trying to decide on which way to hinge my canopy. I know the currant 
trend is to mont it from the front.  But I can't get over the inability to 
open the canopy in flight if you need to jump out.
Is anyone putting with a side hinge in or is everyone hinging from the 
front?

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705
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KR> Canopy hinge

[Paul Visk]

I'm trying to decide on which way to hinge my canopy. I know the currant trend 
is to mont it from the front. ?But I can't get over the inability to open the 
canopy in flight if you need to jump out.
Is anyone putting with a side hinge in or is everyone hinging from the front?

Paul Visk
Belleville Il.
618-406-4705

KR> Canopy Masking

[Phillip Matheson]

I can not find Spraylate listed with aircraft Spruce ( thanks Mark)

But I found this, $49.95 per Gallon (and $30 flat post to Australia)

Anyone know if is OK to get off.



Phil Matheson




http://generalchemicalcorp.mybigcommerce.com/helicoat-1170/

KR> Canopy

[Dene]

Hi Larry
Do you perhaps have a photo of the motor taken from the top with just the
top half of the cowl removed? I am interested to see the relation between
the cowl and front of the motor and spinner.
Thanks

Regards
Dene Collett
www.denecollett.com



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KR> Canopy

[Flesner]

>  Looks like the dragonfly
>canopy has better side to side head set room.


Whatever canopy you use, you can raise it off the longerons with foam 
and glass for additional headroom.  I think my glass starts about 3 
inches above the longerons.  You can tell by looking at the open gull 
wing door cutout in the 
photo.  https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8669.JPG

Larry Flesner 

KR> Canopy

[Flesner]

At 07:25 PM 6/14/2014, you wrote:
>Thinking about dragonfly canopy any difference between manufacturers

++

You might consider a Pulsar also.  I've always thought the Todd's 
canopy looked more like a large half bubble with less vertical than the rest.
My windshield is the forward portion of a broken Pulsar canopy and 
fits very nicely.   https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8669.JPG
As always, your results may vary.

Are you changing the canopy on Josh's KR or is this something 
new.  Did Josh sell his?  The listing went off Barnstormers.

Larry  Flesner

KR> Canopy

[dean choitz]

Thinking about dragonfly canopy any difference between manufacturers todds
or several others.price quality shipping fit ext. Looks like the dragonfly
canopy has better side to side head set room.

KR> Canopy shade

[Mark Wegmet]

Just a thought; soft foam, over coat with 'cotton' and flood with wood glue
or some other non-structural adhesive that can be sanded and painted. Maybe
'form' with soft wire (copper, solid core, thin). It is after all just a
shade.

JMHO
Mark W.
N952MW (still res.)

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2014 5:42 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy shade

Dene Collett wrote:

> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in 
> sunlight but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over 
> their panel.
> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why 
> not just extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and 
> create some shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem 
> but it would surely help to solve it.

One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash
scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your
skull when your forehead hits it.  
to change options


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KR> Canopy shade

[Paul Visk]

This stuff looks interesting. ?I wonder if it would smooth out on a double 
contour canopy??


Paul Visk
Belleville, Il
618-406-4705

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

 Original message From: Craig Williams 
 Date:04/09/2014  11:06 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KRnet  Subject: Re: KR> 
Canopy shade 
Here is what I am looking to use on my canopy.  Its the Zenith 601 bubble 
and I will need a shade or something like this.

http://www.windowtint.com/Plexi-Window-Films/

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com


On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:46 AM, peter  wrote:

Jeff; Nice! But try it on a scrap piece of plexiglass first... wait a month. 
Solvents (paint vehicle) are unpredictable. Peter



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KR> Canopy shade

[kr2seafury at yahoo.com]

Krypton makes a paint called "stained glass".? They say on the can that "it may 
be used on some plastics".? I have used it on acrylic with good results.? Comes 
in yellow , red and blue.?? I will try it on my old Colt windshield and report 
back.

Craig
Www.kr2seafury.com

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

KR> Canopy shade

[laser147 at juno.com]

> "For what its worth, I bought a can of VHT Nite Shades to spray on the
inside of my canopy above my head."

I tried a can of Testor's translucent black tint on some scrap canopy
material (actually Lexan) when I was working on getting some shade in the
cockpit.  The VHT product might work better but my experience with my
spray can of Testor's was that it came out splotchy looking.  I think it
would have worked to darken the interior but I don't think it would have
looked very nice, plus I think (as Peter mentioned) the solvents would
probably have damaged the plastic.   

I've always liked the look of what Bill Clapp and others have done in
creating less glare in the cockpit.  One disadvantage of that route is
that you lose any ability to see out the top.  With my static cling film
it is still possible to see through the tint.  

The ideal solution would be to find some photosensitive material that
would darken in sunlight and become clear at night.  

I recall trying at least three different types of static cling material -
some for house windows, some for cars, before I decided on the one I
used.  I planned on re-doing the job, considering my first application to
be "practice", but I never re-did it and now, at least five years later,
it has required no attention at all and looks the same as the day I put
it on.  I cut it to shape and used soapy water to slide it into position
and to squeeze any bubbles out.  Considering there is no adhesive
involved, it's amazing that the film has never drooped or come off.  It
made a world of difference in cockpit comfort and reduced glare.  

I still have some extra rolls since I planned to do a more meticulous
application later, so I know what I used.  I didn't get it from Amazon,
but this is the product:  

http://www.amazon.com/Sunshine-Kids-Shade-Window-Black/dp/B00081L2Q2

Here's an RV owner who has had the same experience:

"I put the static cling film on the inside of my RV-6 tip up canopy about
7 yrs ago. We put it in as a temporary measure until I found a better
alternative. It's still there and has done a great job. I bought it at a
local auto supply store. Dave"


Mike
KSEE

The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar (Don't Eat This!)
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5345b29389bad329355c9st02vuc

KR> Canopy shade

[brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com]

Let us know how it works.  I have window tint on the inside of my
Mustang bubble and it is not dark enough and not very smooth either so I
would like to replace it with a spray on coating.


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy shade
From: Jeff Lange 
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, April 09, 2014 7:04 am
To: KRnet 

For what its worth, I bought a can of VHT Nite Shades to spray on the
inside of my canopy above my head. It?s a translucent black paint that
is intended for the dimwits that want to black out their turn signals.
Not sure what it does in the IR and UV spectrums, but it would dim the
sunlight coming through the canopy while still letting you have
visibility through the area. I have not tried it yet but will before the
summer head and ear sunburn season starts ; )

Here is the link: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/niteshades/

Jeff Lange
Race 64 - Skye Racer
Blog: http://schmleff.blogspot.com
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/schmleff

On Apr 9, 2014, at 5:41 AM, Mark Langford  wrote:

> Dene Collett wrote:
> 
>> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in sunlight
>> but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
>> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not just
>> extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
>> shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
>> surely help to solve it.
> 
> One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash 
> scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your skull 
> when your forehead hits it. Obviously nobody would put a knife edge out there 
> and a rounded surface should be the goal. I did create a removable glare 
> shield for N56ML that hangs out over the panel for exactly the reason you 
> state, and it was edged with some rubber edging to soften the edge. The whole 
> thing was added after the plane had been flying a while, and was built in 
> place out of a plyfoam sandwich...1/4" Last-o-foam with a layer of glass on 
> each side. The side facing the pilot was rounded and the glass wrapped around 
> it to soften it, and then a layer of gray felt was added for appearance, and 
> finished off with the rubber edging. I'll try to get a picture of that. I 
> later discovered that felt was a bad idea, as the canopy would focus the sun 
> on the felt and come very close to lighting it on fire!
> 
> One "advantage" (and this is a stretch) of the original KR2 bubble is that 
> the decking surrounding the bubble forms a huge shade over the instrument 
> panel, creating more shade than anybody would ever want. It's almost too dark 
> in there!
> 
> I started N891JF over the weekend, and nothing leaked or flew apart. Progress 
> is being made...
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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KR> Canopy shade

[peter]

Jeff; Nice! But try it on a scrap piece of plexiglass first... wait a month. 
Solvents (paint vehicle) are unpredictable. Peter

KR> Canopy shade

[Dene]

Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in sunlight
but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not just
extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
surely help to solve it.

Regards
Dene Collett
www.denecollett.com


-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of
laser147 at juno.com
Sent: 09 April, 2014 8:35 AM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> Canopy shade

" . . . or paint the top of my bubble canopy."

The RV guys often use Koger Sunshades.  By now the company may have one
that will fit a KR canopy.  

KR> Canopy shade

[Craig Williams]

Here is what I am looking to use on my canopy.? Its the Zenith 601 bubble and I 
will need a shade or something like this.

http://www.windowtint.com/Plexi-Window-Films/

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com


On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:46 AM, peter  wrote:

Jeff; Nice! But try it on a scrap piece of plexiglass first... wait a month. 
Solvents (paint vehicle) are unpredictable. Peter



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KR> Canopy shade

[Jeff Lange]

For what its worth, I bought a can of VHT Nite Shades to spray on the inside of 
my canopy above my head. It?s a translucent black paint that is intended for 
the dimwits that want to black out their turn signals. Not sure what it does in 
the IR and UV spectrums, but it would dim the sunlight coming through the 
canopy while still letting you have visibility through the area. I have not 
tried it yet but will before the summer head and ear sunburn season starts ; )

Here is the link: http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/niteshades/

Jeff Lange
Race 64 - Skye Racer
Blog: http://schmleff.blogspot.com
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/schmleff

On Apr 9, 2014, at 5:41 AM, Mark Langford  wrote:

> Dene Collett wrote:
> 
>> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in sunlight
>> but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
>> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not just
>> extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
>> shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
>> surely help to solve it.
> 
> One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash 
> scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your skull 
> when your forehead hits it.  Obviously nobody would put a knife edge out 
> there and a rounded surface should be the goal.  I did create a removable 
> glare shield for N56ML that hangs out over the panel for exactly the reason 
> you state, and it was edged with some rubber edging to soften the edge.  The 
> whole thing was added after the plane had been flying a while, and was built 
> in place out of a plyfoam sandwich...1/4" Last-o-foam with a layer of glass 
> on each side.  The side facing the pilot was rounded and the glass wrapped 
> around it to soften it, and then a layer of gray felt was added for 
> appearance, and finished off with the rubber edging.  I'll try to get a 
> picture of that.  I later discovered that felt was a bad idea, as the canopy 
> would focus the sun on the felt and come very close to lighting it on fire!
> 
> One "advantage" (and this is a stretch) of the original KR2 bubble is that 
> the decking surrounding the bubble forms a huge shade over the instrument 
> panel, creating more shade than anybody would ever want.  It's almost too 
> dark in there!
> 
> I started N891JF over the weekend, and nothing leaked or flew apart. Progress 
> is being made...
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Canopy shade

[Mark Langford]

Dene Collett wrote:

> Guys I see a lot of talk about displays that are barely readable in 
> sunlight
> but I have yet to see anybody create a glare shield over their panel.
> Everybody seems to just put their panel at the end of the deck. Why not 
> just
> extend the deck a few inches over the top of the panel and create some
> shade? It might not be a total elimination of the problem but it would
> surely help to solve it.

One consideration on having a lip overhanging the panel is that in a crash 
scenario, anything stiff and part of the front deck could cut into your 
skull when your forehead hits it.  Obviously nobody would put a knife edge 
out there and a rounded surface should be the goal.  I did create a 
removable glare shield for N56ML that hangs out over the panel for exactly 
the reason you state, and it was edged with some rubber edging to soften the 
edge.  The whole thing was added after the plane had been flying a while, 
and was built in place out of a plyfoam sandwich...1/4" Last-o-foam with a 
layer of glass on each side.  The side facing the pilot was rounded and the 
glass wrapped around it to soften it, and then a layer of gray felt was 
added for appearance, and finished off with the rubber edging.  I'll try to 
get a picture of that.  I later discovered that felt was a bad idea, as the 
canopy would focus the sun on the felt and come very close to lighting it on 
fire!

One "advantage" (and this is a stretch) of the original KR2 bubble is that 
the decking surrounding the bubble forms a huge shade over the instrument 
panel, creating more shade than anybody would ever want.  It's almost too 
dark in there!

I started N891JF over the weekend, and nothing leaked or flew apart. 
Progress is being made...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com

KR> Canopy shade

[laser147 at juno.com]

" . . . or paint the top of my bubble canopy."

The RV guys often use Koger Sunshades.  By now the company may have one
that will fit a KR canopy.  

I've had excellent results with static-cling film I found on line.  It's
held up extremely well over the years.  I think Wal-Mart has some. 
There's lots of options rather than painting.  

Asus just came out with a 700 nit tablet that's less than $300, BTW.  

Mike
KSEE


The #1 Worst Carb Ever?
Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar (Don't Eat This!)
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5344ea62c0fd26a627a87st02vuc

KR> Canopy Needed

[Randall Smith]

Shipping has got to be very expensive on canopies because they had so many 
damaged. I think there all buying an insurance on them when they ship them now. 
I paid 600 for a canopy and it cost me 230 to have a chip.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 4, 2014, at 7:20 PM, "Randy Moore Newbern Tn. N318RM"  aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> JC4JC1956 at aol.com,   I bought some things from him. his name is Jeffery 
> real good person to deal with 
> 
> Randy Moore
> Newbern Tn
> 731 589 1330
> avid mark IV
> KR II rebuild
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dan Prichard 
> To: 'KRnet' 
> Sent: Tue, Mar 4, 2014 7:12 pm
> Subject: KR> Canopy Needed
> 
> 
> Looking for a canopy (dragon fly if possible) out west.  Todd's has great
> prices but shipping is pricey.  Any leads?
> 
> 
> 
> Dan Prichard
> 
> Portland, Or.
> 
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
> 
> 
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> options

KR> Canopy Needed

[Randy Moore Newbern Tn. N318RM]

JC4JC1956 at aol.com,   I bought some things from him. his name is Jeffery real 
good person to deal with 

Randy Moore
Newbern Tn
731 589 1330
avid mark IV
KR II rebuild

-Original Message-
From: Dan Prichard 
To: 'KRnet' 
Sent: Tue, Mar 4, 2014 7:12 pm
Subject: KR> Canopy Needed


Looking for a canopy (dragon fly if possible) out west.  Todd's has great
prices but shipping is pricey.  Any leads?



Dan Prichard

Portland, Or.

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KR> Canopy Needed

[Dan Prichard]

Looking for a canopy (dragon fly if possible) out west.  Todd's has great
prices but shipping is pricey.  Any leads?



Dan Prichard

Portland, Or.

KR> Canopy and Spraylat

[Dan Heath]

This is a good place to start.
http://www.ppg.com/en/newsroom/news/Pages/20121017A.aspx
I put spraylat into Bing.  Apparently now, it is a PPG product.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics?

Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC

KR> Canopy and Spraylat

[Rodger Nicolls]

Hello everyone,
I just received my new canopy from Todd's today. It's been quite an eerie nice 
today. First when I went to the trucking company to pick it up, I was told the 
box was "crushed and punctured"!  I dismantled the box on the dock before 
accepting the shipment, but much to my relief, the canopy was undamaged. And 
this was after traveling by truck from Florida to Alaska during the last three 
weeks of storms out east. 
So now the Spraylat. After spending almost $600 on shipping, I started looking 
for Spraylat to protect this piece of art. It is no where to be found, but I 
found a new type of painters tape, 3M brand Deluxe Trim tape for Delicate 
Surfaces. It's advertised to peel off easily even after 60 days. So I laid 3 
rolls of 2" tape on the inside and out. It looked great. I decided to take a 
break at that time because I was getting a headache, then my wife came home. 
She asked what the smell was, and of course I didn't know what she was asking 
about until I left the living room, where I was working on the canopy. Come to 
find out, the tape was off gassing some chemicals very toxic to both of us 
which had, by this time, given me a migraine.
I later removed the tape and covered the canopy with plain white contact paper. 
I'm much happier now and the headache is gradually going away. 
Now to figure out how to install this canopy. 
Rodger Nicolls
Anchorage, Alaska