KR> Plywood

[patric...@usfamily.net]

Does anyone know of a aircraft grade plywood supplier near the twin 
cities,(Minneapolis, St Paul, MN)?
Patrick Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN
patric...@usfamily.net


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KR> Plywood

[patrusso]

Pat
Yellow pages for marine grade plywoods. Many local lumber yards that supply 
the marine, cabinet and furniture shops with supplies will have just what 
you need or order it for you.
Pat
- Original Message - 
From: 
To: "KR Net" 
Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 3:22 PM
Subject: KR> Plywood


> Does anyone know of a aircraft grade plywood supplier near the twin 
> cities,(Minneapolis, St Paul, MN)?
> Patrick Driscoll
> Saint Paul, MN
> patric...@usfamily.net
>
>
> --- http://USFamily.Net/dialup.html - $8.25/mo! --  
> http://www.usfamily.net/dsl.html - $19.99/mo! ---
> ___
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KR> plywood

[patric...@usfamily.net]

I checked the archives and only found two posts about Baltic Birch. Both of 
them favorable. Does anyone use this on their skins? This stuff is only $12.50 
for a 50" x 50" X 1/8"
Patrick Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN
patric...@usfamily.net


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KR> plywood

[bearlk...@aol.com]

Patrick;
Youngblood lumber on Central ave Mpls. stocks some very fine Russian Baltic 
Birch ply at a cost similar to your quote. 
Bob Polgreen

KR> plywood

[Jeff Scott]

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KR> Plywood

[rhartwi...@juno.com]

Be very careful about using low priced Baltic birch.  Much of
this plywood is used for cabinet making and other indoor uses.  It looks
beautiful, but is not necessarily waterproof.  If you buy a sheet of it,
cut off a small piece (1/4 X 1 inch piece will do) and boil it in plain
water for about 1/2 hour and then try to peel the plys apart (if they
have not already come apart.)  If it comes apart, don't use it.
A safer way is to buy British Spec. 1088 marine ply.  It is
available at some lumber yards and boat building shops.  This ply will
have the number 1088 stamped on one face.  It will be waterproof, have no
face plugs and no large internal voids.  I can buy a 4ft by 8ft sheet of
Okume 1088 in 2mm or 3mm for about $60 from a boat shop.
Dick Hartwig
Waunakee, WI
rhartwi...@juno.com

KR> Plywood

[Dan Prichard]

The last archive record for Okoume plywood use on the KR was back in 2003. 
Anyone have something new to share?  

Sent from my iPhone

KR> Plywood

[Sid Wood]

Where are you putting the 1/8 inch plywood?  Plans call for 3/32 and 
1/4-inch.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

I need a 4x4 by 1/8 inch sheet of plywood to finish ?up ?my fuselage.
JoeFlorida?

KR> Plywood

[Dan Prichard]

That's what is great about the KR. You can do just about anything you want. 
I've used 1/8" Okome on my fuselage and am very happy with its workability 
weight and strength. I believe it only weighed a few pounds more and it much 
stronger. 

Dan Prichard 
Portland Oregon. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2015, at 12:01 PM, Sid Wood via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Where are you putting the 1/8 inch plywood?  Plans call for 3/32 and 1/4-inch.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> I need a 4x4 by 1/8 inch sheet of plywood to finish ?up ?my fuselage.
> JoeFlorida?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> options

KR> Plywood

[bjoenunley]

My fuselage ?is also 1/8 inch thick Okoume.?
Did you find it binds well with T88?
A/C spruce would not leave the plywood ?sheet out for me. Delivery is $100. ?I 
will make another trip to Atlanta soon.?
Joe?


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

KR> Plywood

[Dan Prichard]

I got my plywood from a local plywood dealer. As long as it has the Lloyds 
number on the edge your ok. BS-1088. Almost any boat shop will have it or can 
get it. 

Dan Prichard 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2015, at 8:14 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> My fuselage  is also 1/8 inch thick Okoume. 
> Did you find it binds well with T88?
> A/C spruce would not leave the plywood  sheet out for me. Delivery is $100.  
> I will make another trip to Atlanta soon. 
> Joe 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> options

KR> Plywood

[bjoenunley]

That might save me a trip to Peachtree ?GA!
JoeFlorida?


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Dan Prichard via KRnet  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 05/21/2015  10:26 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: KRnet  
Cc: Dan Prichard  
Subject: Re: KR> Plywood 

I got my plywood from a local plywood dealer. As long as it has the Lloyds 
number on the edge your ok. BS-1088. Almost any boat shop will have it or can 
get it. 

Dan Prichard 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2015, at 8:14 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> My fuselage? is also 1/8 inch thick Okoume. 
> Did you find it binds well with T88?
> A/C spruce would not leave the plywood? sheet out for me. Delivery is $100.? 
> I will make another trip to Atlanta soon. 
> Joe 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> ___

KR> Plywood

[Dan Prichard]

I didn't answer your original question. Yes, it's bonds very well. No sign of 
any delamination. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2015, at 8:14 PM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> My fuselage  is also 1/8 inch thick Okoume. 
> Did you find it binds well with T88?
> A/C spruce would not leave the plywood  sheet out for me. Delivery is $100.  
> I will make another trip to Atlanta soon. 
> Joe 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR>Plywood

[Justin]

I was looking over my Wicks book thinking about which plywood to order. There 
is another wooden airplane in my hanger using basswood. I know it is heavier by 
2 lbs every 4X8.

The options are mahagany $118 for 4X8(10lbs). Birch $82 for 
4X8(12lbs).basswood/basswood $73 for 4X8 (10lbs)

Could someone explain these options and their strengths and weakness.

Justin
N116JW
www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home

KR>Plywood

[Larry A Capps]

Mahogany plywood (5 ply), will provide sufficient strength at a higher cost
(25-50%) over Birch.

Birch plywood (5 ply), is 25% stronger and weighs 20-25% more than Mahogany.

Mahogany vs. Birch is a fine example of spending a little more to save
weight.

By using Mahogany you can save 2 lbs. on the KR2-S fuselage sides.

Regards,

Larry A Capps
KR Newsletter CD
Naperville, IL



-Original Message-
I was
thinking about which plywood to order.

The options
Mahogany$1184X8 (10lbs).
Birch   $82 4X8 (12lbs).

Could someone explain these options and their strengths and weakness.

KR>Plywood

[Mark Langford]

Justin wrote:

> I was looking over my Wicks book thinking about which plywood to order.
There is another >wooden airplane in my hanger using basswood. I know it is
heavier by 2 lbs every 4X8.
> The options are mahagany $118 for 4X8(10lbs). Birch $82 for
4X8(12lbs).basswood/basswood >$73 for 4X8 (10lbs)

I didn't see a real reply to this so see
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood/strength_table.htm .  Birch wins in every
area except density, which is the only area in which Basswood wins (it's
lighter than all the rest).  Mahogony is the best compromise, since its
strength is obviously sufficient (given KR history) with a density close to
Basswood (although it doesn't show up on this particular list, I don't
think).  The plans call for mahogony or birch, and that's worked for
everybody so far.  Basswood is weaker in every respect...

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
N56ML "at"  hiwaay.net
see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

KR> Plywood

[Ken Henderson]

All, 
Just bit the bullet and sent a spruce and ply order off to Aircraft Spruce. 
I know most of you do business with Wick's but they couldn't supply the spar 
stock I needed and California is much closer to NM than Illinois shipping cost 
wise.
I noticed they offer ply in 90 degree and 45 degree. I assumed that the KR, 
being an "economical" airplane to build, would use the 90 degree. Am I correct 
in this?
Thanks, Ken

KR> Plywood

[Teate, Stephen]

"would use the 90 degree. Am I correct in this?"

If memory serves the 45 degree plywood is used on wings for torsional strength. 
Which is the same reason the KR uses the fiberglass weave on a 45 degree on its 
wing. Your 90 degree orientation should be fine.

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas
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you should delete this message.  Access to this email by 
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KR> Plywood

[Mark Langford]

Ken Henderson wrote:

> "would use the 90 degree. Am I correct in this?"

There is no 45 degree plywood called out in the KR plans, except the little 
gussets around the main and aft spar inside the fuselage (so use scaps of 90 
degree turned 45 degrees there), so yes, 90 degree is what you'd order.  The 
fiberglass wings should be laid up at 45 degrees, however.  This is from 
memory, but I'm pretty sure about this one...

Mark Langford
n5...@hiwaay.net
website www.n56ml.com 

KR> Plywood

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

>
>There is no 45 degree plywood called out in the KR plans, except the little
>gussets around the main and aft spar inside the fuselage (so use scaps of 90
>degree turned 45 degrees there), so yes, 90 degree is what you'd order.
>
>Mark Langford
++


I guess I missed that little point when building.  Does that mean I 
have to go back 350 flight hours and do it over?? :-)

Larry Flesner

KR> Plywood

[Dan Heath]

Yes, you do!  So better get started if you expect to make the Gathering!

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2010 - KR Gathering in Richmond, Ky - I39
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
has begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Larry&Sallie Flesner
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:44 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Plywood


>
>There is no 45 degree plywood called out in the KR plans, except the little
>gussets around the main and aft spar inside the fuselage (so use scaps of
90
>degree turned 45 degrees there), so yes, 90 degree is what you'd order.
>
>Mark Langford

++


I guess I missed that little point when building.  Does that mean I 
have to go back 350 flight hours and do it over?? :-)

Larry Flesner


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KR> Plywood...

[GaryH]

Anybody have a good source (as in best price for same) for 3/32 plywood?
Regards,
Gary

KR> Plywood...

[Fred Johnson]

Gary wrote:

Anybody have a good source (as in best price for same) for 3/32 plywood?
Regards.
[Fred Johnson] 


Are you looking for price or quality?

It also depend on what part of the country you are in.

In the northwest I would call B&D international.
http://www.bd-international.com/
The owner started his company because his brother built a KR. He sells top
quality Finnish Birch ply, and it 5 ply thick!

Fred Johnson
Reno, NV

KR> Plywood...

[mylittle...@yahoo.com]

Here in Ohio I use a place called the Wood Boat Shop in Cincinnati. His  
prices have been almost half of the big places.

Richard Kaczmarek
Fast Little Airplanes LLC.

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-Original message-
From: Fred Johnson 
To: 'KRnet' 
Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2012 15:57:15 GMT+00:00
Subject: RE: KR> Plywood...




Gary wrote:

Anybody have a good source (as in best price for same) for 3/32 plywood?
Regards.
[Fred Johnson] 


Are you looking for price or quality?

It also depend on what part of the country you are in.

In the northwest I would call B&D international.
http://www.bd-international.com/
The owner started his company because his brother built a KR. He sells top
quality Finnish Birch ply, and it 5 ply thick!

Fred Johnson
Reno, NV


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KR> Plywood...

[Tim & Gail McKenna]

What part of the country are you in?

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of GaryH
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 9:50 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> Plywood...

Anybody have a good source (as in best price for same) for 3/32 plywood?
Regards,
Gary



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KR> Plywood...

[GaryH]

Central Texas.

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Tim & Gail McKenna
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 7:33 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR> Plywood...

What part of the country are you in?

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of GaryH
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 9:50 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> Plywood...

Anybody have a good source (as in best price for same) for 3/32 plywood?
Regards,
Gary



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KR> Plywood...

[Timothy McKenna]

Sorry, I am in New Jersey. I had some that I was looking to unload.

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of GaryH
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 10:50 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR> Plywood...

Central Texas.

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of Tim & Gail McKenna
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 7:33 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR> Plywood...

What part of the country are you in?

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of GaryH
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 9:50 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: KR> Plywood...

Anybody have a good source (as in best price for same) for 3/32 plywood?
Regards,
Gary



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KR> Plywood floor

[ppaul...@aol.com]

I cut my holes for my front spar today and notice when I put the plywood floor 
in. The back edge has nothing to glue. Any suggestions. 

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618-406-4705


Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

KR> Plywood floor

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

At 07:15 PM 1/12/2014, you wrote:
>I cut my holes for my front spar today and notice when I put the 
>plywood floor in. The back edge has nothing to glue. Any suggestions. Paul Visk
+++

not sure I follow what you are saying here.  could you expand on that 
a bit.  The spar will rest on the bottom longerons, not the floor

Larry Flesner

P.S.  forgive the errors.  i'm typing with both hands on a computer 
the size of my hand

KR> plywood floor

[ppaul...@aol.com]

Fwd of the spar there is no 5/32 cross member for the back edge of the 3/32 
plywood to sit on.  I thinking when I step into the plane the back edge will 
collapse. I double check the drawings to see if I miss the crossmember and I 
didn't. 

Paul Visk
Belleville, Il
618-406-4705


Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

KR> plywood floor

[Mark Langford]

Paul Visk wrote:

>> Fwd of the spar there is no 5/32 cross member for the back edge of the 
>> 3/32 plywood to sit on.  I thinking when I step into the plane the back 
>> edge will collapse. I double check the drawings to see if I miss the 
>> crossmember and I didn't. <<

Do you mean 5/8" crossmember?  And the 3/32" plywood shouldn't just end 
there, it should be scarfed to another piece or two so that there's a 
continuous floor all the way to the tail.  Ideally I'd run the ply wood full 
length until it ends way back behind the cabin, then scarf on more to finish 
it, but I'm not sure that the plans differentiate that.

Floor installation is prior to spar installation.  Most of us would shudder 
at the thought of stepping on the floor anyway...I'm not sure you CAN stand 
up on the floor.  We enter, stand on the seat, drop ourselves down, and 
don't put much force on the floor...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 

KR> plywood floor

[Tony King]

Woh, now there's something I missed.  In all my perusing of the plans and
the build guide I hadn't noticed the floor extending back past the main
spar.  I'm at the point of fitting my centre section spars so I'm glad this
came up.  KRNet saves the day - again!

Cheers,

Tony

On 13 January 2014 11:52, Mark Langford  wrote:

> Do you mean 5/8" crossmember?  And the 3/32" plywood shouldn't just end
> there, it should be scarfed to another piece or two so that there's a
> continuous floor all the way to the tail.  Ideally I'd run the ply wood
> full length until it ends way back behind the cabin, then scarf on more to
> finish it, but I'm not sure that the plans differentiate that.
>
> Floor installation is prior to spar installation.  Most of us would
> shudder at the thought of stepping on the floor anyway...I'm not sure you
> CAN stand up on the floor.  We enter, stand on the seat, drop ourselves
> down, and don't put much force on the floor...
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com 
> 
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> plywood floor

[ppaul...@aol.com]

Ok, I'm talking about the floor inside the cockpit. The wood that goes on top 
of the soundproofing / insulation  foam.  The drawing  shows the floor to go 
all the way back to the front of the spar. there is nothing to glue the floor 
to front  of the spar. 

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618-406-4705

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

KR> plywood floor

[Mark Langford]

Paul Visk wrote:

>> Ok, I'm talking about the floor inside the cockpit. The wood that goes on 
>> top of the soundproofing / insulation  foam.  The drawing  shows the 
>> floor to go all the way back to the front of the spar. there is nothing 
>> to glue the floor to front  of the spar. <<

That makes a lot more sense. I forget how I did that, but I was probably 
content with the plywood resting on foam, knowing that nobody could possibly 
stand there.  N891JF doesn't even have plywood, best I can tell.  It appears 
to be a few layers of fiberglass.  Or maybe it's plywood with glass on top. 
But the bottom line is there's a gap at the junction with the front spar 
that's perfect for losing nuts, washers, and drill bits, so if you build it 
like that, at least you're in good company!  Nothing wrong with moving ahead 
like you are,  then running a fillet of micro slurry along there and then a 
piece of 1" wide fiberglass tape on top of that the whole width to make it 
durable.  That way you won't lose your nuts, and I doubt you'll fall through 
there either...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 

KR> plywood floor

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

At 09:21 PM 1/12/2014, you wrote:
>Ok, I'm talking about the floor inside the cockpit. The wood that 
>goes on top of the soundproofing / insulation  foam.  The 
>drawing  shows the floor to go all the way back to the front of the 
>spar. there is nothing to glue the floor to front  of the spar.
+++

add another 5/8" cross member at that point to support the floor.

LARRY FLESNER

KR> plywood floor

[Mark Langford]

Larry Flesner wrote:

> add another 5/8" cross member at that point to support the floor.

Sorry, but I'll have to throw the "unnecessary beefing" flag on that one!  I 
almost suggested splitting a piece of 5/8" and standing it up on end, but 
decided it was too heavy compared to micro and glass...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com

KR> plywood floor

[ppaul...@aol.com]

Larry Flesner wrote:

> add another 5/8" cross member at that point to support the floor.

Sorry, but I'll have to throw the "unnecessary beefing" flag on that one

Thanks Mark and Larry. Another question.  Do you think the 1/4 plywood under 
your feet is structural or a foot rest. That's a lot a weight. I planning on 
mounting my rudder  off the shelf so I don't think I need it. 

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

KR> plywood floor

[Allen G. Wiesner]

I extended the 3/32" plywood floor to the back side of the station "E" 
crosspiece at the aft side of the spar cutout. As for the 1/4" ply, I 
considered it as part of the load structure for the lower engine mount and left 
it in although I am also planning on hanging my rudder pedals / brakes from the 
lower shelf. However, I didn't like the abrupt step at the aft end so I 
extended it about 3" beyond the aft edge of station "B" and tapered it 
(standard 12:1 scarf taper) to a feather edge on the top of the 3/32" ply. Both 
were glued together with T-88 of course. 


Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS #1117 TD/ CorvAir 
65 Franklin Street 
Ansonia , CT 06401-1240 

203-732-0508 
allenw65 at comcast.net 

- Original Message -

KR> Plywood orientation

[Gary Wold]

I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a
quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there
are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The
plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the
archive.



Also, any suggestion as to the amount of T-88 I should order?



Thanks





Gary Wold

EAA Lifetime member

Eagle Boy Scout 

KR> Plywood orientation

[Paul Visk]

you can use your 90 degree mahogany plywood. You have to use birch on the spars

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 506 4705


Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.

 Original message From: Gary Wold via KRnet 
 Date:03/30/2015  7:03 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> Plywood 
orientation 
I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a
quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there
are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The
plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the
archive.



Also, any suggestion as to the amount of T-88 I should order?



Thanks





Gary Wold

EAA Lifetime member

Eagle Boy Scout 



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KR> Plywood orientation

[Paul Visk]

I'm on my 2nd quart kit.?

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 406 4705?


Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.

 Original message From: Gary Wold via KRnet 
 Date:03/30/2015  7:03 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> Plywood 
orientation 
I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a
quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there
are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The
plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the
archive.



Also, any suggestion as to the amount of T-88 I should order?



Thanks





Gary Wold

EAA Lifetime member

Eagle Boy Scout 



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KR> Plywood orientation

[Dan Prichard]

You can probably pick up the T-88 locally so you can get it when you need more. 
I also used about 2 quarts. Wood crafters supply carries it. I used 90 degree 
plywood. 
Dan Prichard
Portland Or

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2015, at 5:12 PM, Paul Visk via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm on my 2nd quart kit. 
> 
> Paul Visk
> Belleville Il
> 618 406 4705 
> 
> 
> Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.
> 
>  Original message From: Gary Wold via KRnet 
>  Date:03/30/2015  7:03 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> Plywood 
> orientation 
> I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a
> quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there
> are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The
> plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the
> archive.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, any suggestion as to the amount of T-88 I should order?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gary Wold
> 
> EAA Lifetime member
> 
> Eagle Boy Scout 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> options

KR> Plywood orientation

[tkilgore3 at cox.net]

Gary Wold wrote:
>I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a 
>quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there 
>are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The 
>plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the 
>archive.

Call Wicks on the phone because they have sold many KR2S wood "kits" including 
mine and they already have the wood lists for each of the variants KR1, KR2 and 
KR2S. Also look under airplane KITS on their web page. They don't have the KR2S 
listed right now but they do have the 1 and 2 listed there. They also have a 
picture of N891JF in flight. Wicks acutally built one of the first KR's so they 
should know a lot about them. They were very nice and easy to talk to. So 
"CALL" them on the phone instead of trying to piece together a kit a few pieces 
at a time on the web site.

Tom Kilgore
Long time lurker

KR> Plywood orientation

[Paul Visk]

Wicks has a "cut sheet that they use." It is for the standard measurements from 
the plans. If you are going to change any of your measurement your going to 
need to tweak the cuts a little. If you don't, you will have a lot of extra 
wook that will be short. ?With the price of the kit. There is no kit discount. 
You pay for what you get. So there is no penalty for changes.
? I have driven?down to Wicks many times because of my alterations and I have 
learned a lot about there spruce kit.?

Tom is right. ?Eric, the general manager of Wicks and his people are super. If 
you ever drive through southern Illinois. ?Stop by and he will be more than 
happy to give you a tour.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 406 4705


Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.

 Original message From: Tom Kilgore via KRnet 
 Date:03/31/2015  2:50 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: Re: KR> Plywood 
orientation 
Gary Wold wrote:
>I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a 
>quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there 
>are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The 
>plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the 
>archive.

Call Wicks on the phone because they have sold many KR2S wood "kits" including 
mine and they already have the wood lists for each of the variants KR1, KR2 and 
KR2S. Also look under airplane KITS on their web page. They don't have the KR2S 
listed right now but they do have the 1 and 2 listed there. They also have a 
picture of N891JF in flight. Wicks acutally built one of the first KR's so they 
should know a lot about them. They were very nice and easy to talk to. So 
"CALL" them on the phone instead of trying to piece together a kit a few pieces 
at a time on the web site.

Tom Kilgore
Long time lurker



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KR> Plywood orientation

[Sid Wood]

For the spars you must put the primary grain of the plywood in the vertical. 
Plywood comes in 4-foot widths, but you need more than 7-foot width.  So, 
you need to scarf 2 pieces to get the width and keep the vertical 
orientation.
Common size for plywood is 8-foot length.  So, you need to scarf pieces to 
make the fuselage sides and bottom.  The scarf joint should be centered on a 
vertical brace for the side and on a horizontal brace for the bottom of the 
fuselage.  You need to plan ahead where scarf joints will be and still get 
the ends to the firewall and rudder.  These best practices can be found in 
FAA AC 43.13-1B - Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft 
Inspection and Repair, Chapter 1, Figure 1-16. 
https://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/99861

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
-
I am putting my KR2S spruce and plywood list together in order to get a
quote from Wicks.  Looking at the plywood on their website, I see that there
are mahogany plywood orientations (angle) of 45 degree and 90 degree.  The
plans are not clear as to which to use and I did not find anything in the
archive.
Thanks
Gary Wold

--
you can use your 90 degree mahogany plywood. You have to use birch on the 
spars

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618 506 4705

KR>Plywood Listing

[Justin]

I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march 2003) and found a listing in 
the back saying:
"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is certified for Aircraft use/ 
is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let me know 
guys.
http://www.boulterplywood.com/

Justin
N116JW
www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home

KR>Plywood Listing

[larry flesner]

>"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is certified for Aircraft
use/ is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let
me know guys.
>http://www.boulterplywood.com/
>Justin



The listing I saw for aircraft birch said for "hobby craft" in the 
next colume.  I don't consider my KR "hobby craft" !!  :-)

Larry Flesner

KR>Plywood Listing

[Rick Wilson]

Justin, It's your option to put any kind of plywood
you wish on your project, but I am just curious as to
why you keep looking for anything other than what is
recommended in the plans? It seems to me that it would
be a lot less headache and expense to buy what is
called for and not have to always wonder if it's going
to come apart or not. Rick Wilson.
--- Justin  wrote:
> I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march
> 2003) and found a listing in the back saying:
> "Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is
> certified for Aircraft use/ is ok for skinning the
> boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let me
> know guys.
> http://www.boulterplywood.com/
> 
> Justin
> N116JW
> www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


=
Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99% rwdw2...@yahoo.com



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KR>Plywood Listing

[David Mullins]

Justin,

I have used the 1/8" 6 ply birch plywood  GL-II from Finland. I purchased it
from Harbor Sales in Maryland. The Last time I went by they stopped
carrying it. Boulter Plywood has just started selling this plywood about
1 to 1.5 years ago. Boulter is about 1 hr drive from me in Boston. I did
pick up some extra 1/4" from them when I needed some more.

Another builder here is using it for his Corby Starlet.

Dave Mullins
Nashua, New Hampshire
http://N323XL.iwarp.com

Justin wrote:

>I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march 2003) and found a listing in 
>the back saying:
>"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is certified for Aircraft use/ 
>is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let me know 
>guys.
>http://www.boulterplywood.com/
>
>Justin
>N116JW
>www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
>___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>  
>

KR>Plywood Listing

[Justin]

The plans do NOT specify where to buy your wood. I was reading in an
airplane magazine like I said that article. If you look at the website
correctly you will see it says "Marine/Exterior Plywood" If im not mistaken
but what other EAA members have told me, marine plywood will work just as
good as avaition plywood. It is inspected and will not come apart with
water, two things we need in our plywood.

Justin
N116JW
www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
- Original Message -
From: "David Mullins" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Plywood Listing


> Justin,
>
> I have used the 1/8" 6 ply birch plywood  GL-II from Finland. I purchased
it
> from Harbor Sales in Maryland. The Last time I went by they stopped
> carrying it. Boulter Plywood has just started selling this plywood about
> 1 to 1.5 years ago. Boulter is about 1 hr drive from me in Boston. I did
> pick up some extra 1/4" from them when I needed some more.
>
> Another builder here is using it for his Corby Starlet.
>
> Dave Mullins
> Nashua, New Hampshire
> http://N323XL.iwarp.com
>
> Justin wrote:
>
> >I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march 2003) and found a listing
in the back saying:
> >"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is certified for Aircraft
use/ is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let me
know guys.
> >http://www.boulterplywood.com/
> >
> >Justin
> >N116JW
> >www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> >___
> >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

KR>Plywood Listing

[Ron Freiberger]

In building boats, it's a real pain to have water enter and follow a void in
the plywood to an area where it appears as an untraceable leak leak.  Marine
plywood is essentially free of void spaces.  It is not even close to
aircraft plywood in quality or performance.

But, at least it's cheap.

Ron Freiberger
mailto: r.freiber...@earthlink.net
r dot freiberger get it?

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of
Justin
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 7:20 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR>Plywood Listing

The plans do NOT specify where to buy your wood. I was reading in an
airplane magazine like I said that article. If you look at the website
correctly you will see it says "Marine/Exterior Plywood" If im not mistaken
but what other EAA members have told me, marine plywood will work just as
good as avaition plywood. It is inspected and will not come apart with
water, two things we need in our plywood.

Justin
N116JW
www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
- Original Message -
From: "David Mullins" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Plywood Listing


> Justin,
>
> I have used the 1/8" 6 ply birch plywood  GL-II from Finland. I purchased
it
> from Harbor Sales in Maryland. The Last time I went by they stopped
> carrying it. Boulter Plywood has just started selling this plywood about
> 1 to 1.5 years ago. Boulter is about 1 hr drive from me in Boston. I did
> pick up some extra 1/4" from them when I needed some more.
>
> Another builder here is using it for his Corby Starlet.
>
> Dave Mullins
> Nashua, New Hampshire
> http://N323XL.iwarp.com
>
> Justin wrote:
>
> >I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march 2003) and found a listing
in the back saying:
> >"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it is certified for Aircraft
use/ is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the website, take a peak and let me
know guys.
> >http://www.boulterplywood.com/
> >
> >Justin
> >N116JW
> >www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> >___
> >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>


___
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KR>Plywood Listing

[Rick Wilson]

Justin, The question has never been "where" to buy,
but"what" to buy. Rick Wilson.
--- Justin  wrote:
> The plans do NOT specify where to buy your wood. I
> was reading in an
> airplane magazine like I said that article. If you
> look at the website
> correctly you will see it says "Marine/Exterior
> Plywood" If im not mistaken
> but what other EAA members have told me, marine
> plywood will work just as
> good as avaition plywood. It is inspected and will
> not come apart with
> water, two things we need in our plywood.
> 
> Justin
> N116JW
> www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> - Original Message -
> From: "David Mullins" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:51 PM
> Subject: Re: KR>Plywood Listing
> 
> 
> > Justin,
> >
> > I have used the 1/8" 6 ply birch plywood  GL-II
> from Finland. I purchased
> it
> > from Harbor Sales in Maryland. The Last time I
> went by they stopped
> > carrying it. Boulter Plywood has just started
> selling this plywood about
> > 1 to 1.5 years ago. Boulter is about 1 hr drive
> from me in Boston. I did
> > pick up some extra 1/4" from them when I needed
> some more.
> >
> > Another builder here is using it for his Corby
> Starlet.
> >
> > Dave Mullins
> > Nashua, New Hampshire
> > http://N323XL.iwarp.com
> >
> > Justin wrote:
> >
> > >I was reading my Sport Aviation magazine (march
> 2003) and found a listing
> in the back saying:
> > >"Aircraft Plywood, GL2 Rated" Does that mean it
> is certified for Aircraft
> use/ is ok for skinning the boat? Here's the
> website, take a peak and let me
> know guys.
> > >http://www.boulterplywood.com/
> > >
> > >Justin
> > >N116JW
> > >www.geocities.com/attngrabber14/Home
> > >___
> > >see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > see KRnet list details at
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> >
> 
> 
> ___
> see KRnet list details at
http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html


=
Rick Wilson, Haleyville, Alabama KR2-0200A -99% rwdw2...@yahoo.com



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KR> plywood question

[bdazzca...@aol.com]

Hey Netters,

I forgot what kind of plywood we use around the  nose section? Let me 
know.



David swanson

KR> plywood question

[Virgil N. Salisbury]

Birch or Mahogany ,3/32, if I remember right, Virg


On 8/26/2011 12:18 AM, bdazzca...@aol.com wrote:
> Hey Netters,
>
>  I forgot what kind of plywood we use around the  nose section? Let me
> know.
>
>
>
> David swanson
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> plywood question

[Dan Heath]

The nose section?  What do you mean by nose section?  If you are referring
to the leading edge of the wing, you don't put plywood on the leading edge
of the wing on a "plans built" KR.

Come to the gathering and find out all you ever wanted to know about
building a KR, and probably stuff you don't know that you want to know.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-
I forgot what kind of plywood we use around the  nose section? 

KR> plywood question

[bdazzca...@aol.com]

nose section floor by the firewall, shelf, seatbelt attachment area 
 firewall itself.

David


In a message dated 8/27/2011 2:52:33 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
da...@windstream.net writes:

The nose  section?  What do you mean by nose section?  If you are  referring
to the leading edge of the wing, you don't put plywood on the  leading edge
of the wing on a "plans built" KR.

Come to the  gathering and find out all you ever wanted to know about
building a KR, and  probably stuff you don't know that you want to know.

See N64KR at  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 -  KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it  never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington,  SC


-Original Message-
I forgot what kind of plywood we  use around the  nose section?  


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KR> plywood question

[Dan Heath]

My firewall is 1/4" aircraft grade plywood.  Not sure what the other pieces
you mentioned are.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-

nose section floor by the firewall, shelf, seatbelt attachment area 
 firewall itself.

KR> plywood question

[Larry&Sallie Flesner]

At 02:05 AM 8/28/2011, you wrote:
>I forgot what kind of plywood we  use around the  nose section?
nose section floor by the firewall, shelf, seatbelt attachment area
firewall itself.
David
+

That information should be in the plans and/ or drawings.  It is a 
mix of 3/32 and 1/4 inch ply.

Larry Flesner

KR> plywood question

[Allen Wiesner]

The basic floor is 3/32" Birch or Mahogany with a 1/4" Birch layer on top from 
the firewall to the back side of the "B" stringer.  The plans call for it to 
stop dead there but I gave it a 30 degree taper to blend it into the basic 
floor, which I made from Birch (but I'm a big guy :-) ).  Both shelves are also 
1/4" Birch, as is the firewall and the triangular stiffeners on the inside at 
"D", which also are 3/32" Birch.  The aft shelf is called out as 3/32" ply, 
type 
your choice, but there is a non-Rand safety revision recommending a 1/4" Birch 
addition for the shoulder harness attach points.  I made my shelf from Birch, 
running from the top of the seat back stringer to the back side of "J" and  
longeron to longeron and added the 1/4" underneath stringers/longerons, running 
from the seat back to the "I" stringer; but thinking back on it, it should be 
from "I" to "J" to give a better angle to the shoulder harness attach points.  
See ML's website for an alternate attach point for the shoulder harnesses, in 
which case you wouldn't need the 1/4" piece.  


 Allen G. Wiesner  KR-2SS S/N 1118  T/D / CorvAIR
65 Franklin Street
Ansonia, CT  06401-1240


203-732-0508


"It ain't over until the fat lady sings".




____________
From: "bdazzca...@aol.com" 
To: kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Sun, August 28, 2011 3:05:12 AM
Subject: Re: KR> plywood question

nose section floor by the firewall, shelf, seatbelt attachment area 
firewall itself.

David


In a message dated 8/27/2011 2:52:33 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
da...@windstream.net writes:

The nose  section?  What do you mean by nose section?  If you are  referring
to the leading edge of the wing, you don't put plywood on the  leading edge
of the wing on a "plans built" KR.

Come to the  gathering and find out all you ever wanted to know about
building a KR, and  probably stuff you don't know that you want to know.

See N64KR at  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 -  KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it  never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington,  SC


-Original Message-
I forgot what kind of plywood we  use around the  nose section?  


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KR> plywood feedback

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

I have been looking a t plywood to replace the ribs in the stub wings and have 
come across some Baltic Birch 5 ply (90 degree) 3 mm and although it is not 
specified as Aircraft Grade I am thinking it should be fine fort he ribs since 
there is foam as well and then glass. What are your thoughts anyone? 
Thanks 
Bob R 
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KR> Plywood Boat

[Glenn Martin via KRnet]

Hi to all. Its been a while since I've been here. Life is finally letting
up. I'm finally seeing enough light at the end of the tunnel that a KR
build looks to be in my future again, and I have some questions I'll pose
as I plan out how I want to go about this.
One of the things which has always bothered me about the KR is, of course,
the"Banana Boat" issue. I'm in currently contact with Mark Lougheed
regarding the articles he's published on this issue. One of the other
considerations I have is this: why not build the frame and forego the
plywood,  instead skinning the boat in the same manner as the  Dan Diehl
wing skins? I'm  up for any input on this.
>From what I can see it has the advantage of 1) reducing the torque and
shear stresses inherent in the prescribed method, 2) allows for changing
the width of the plane more easily and 3) eliminates the banana boat
problem entirely. At question is the strength and weight penalties. I look
forward to hear from any/all of you. (Puts om my thickest skin in
preparation for the worst)

Glenn Martin
Biloxi, MS
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KR>plywood vs. composite

[skp...@charter.net]

Sent once I'll try again.

The decision to build a KR was long in the making. 
 Followed Mark Langfords work since he put in on the net.
The KR is proven, strong, fast, and affordable. The KR 
does lend itself for mods but lets be smart.  I am 
building to plans execpt a corvair with the new wings 
(which have flown) Making Major structural changes brings 
danger to the pilot and THOSE ON THE GROUND.  When a KR 
registered as a KR goes down, the crash is listed as a KR. 
 Those making mojor changes should seek registering the 
plane as a totally new design.  I am proud to be building 
a KR. One that will fly.

Steven Phillabaum
Auburn, AL

Re: KR> plywood feedback

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

 have come across some Baltic Birch 5 ply (90 degree) 3 mm and 
although it is not specified as Aircraft Grade I am thinking it 
should be fine fort he ribs

Bob R

+

That's slightly heavier than the 3/32nd mahogany I used.  Why not?.

Larry Flesner 



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Re: KR> Plywood Boat

[Steve Loebs via KRnet]

Hello all,

I am new to this mail list. I have the same thought that you have Glenn.
The Mailman subscriber list is only available to the admins so I could not
check for myself, but is Eduardo Barros on this list?

Check out his technique in building his plane. The bottom menu item in the
left frame -- _fuselaje -- shows how he built his fuselage.

http://www.kr2-egb.com.ar/

I am not crazy about the shallow gullwing doors since I am not young enough
to climb in and out with those, but they look cool nonetheless.

Also, couldn't we forego much of the spruce altogether and layup 4'x8'
panels and then CNC cut out the airframe parts? Maybe using something like
the inexpensive Maslow CNC machine?

https://www.maslowcnc.com




On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 3:13 PM, Glenn Martin via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:

> Hi to all. Its been a while since I've been here. Life is finally letting
> up. I'm finally seeing enough light at the end of the tunnel that a KR
> build looks to be in my future again, and I have some questions I'll pose
> as I plan out how I want to go about this.
> One of the things which has always bothered me about the KR is, of course,
> the"Banana Boat" issue. I'm in currently contact with Mark Lougheed
> regarding the articles he's published on this issue. One of the other
> considerations I have is this: why not build the frame and forego the
> plywood,  instead skinning the boat in the same manner as the  Dan Diehl
> wing skins? I'm  up for any input on this.
> From what I can see it has the advantage of 1) reducing the torque and
> shear stresses inherent in the prescribed method, 2) allows for changing
> the width of the plane more easily and 3) eliminates the banana boat
> problem entirely. At question is the strength and weight penalties. I look
> forward to hear from any/all of you. (Puts om my thickest skin in
> preparation for the worst)
>
> Glenn Martin
> Biloxi, MS
> ___
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> krnet@list.krnet.org/.
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KR> PLywood kit from Wicks

[thomas brady]

Hello all, Just a question about the plywood kit from Wicks. THis is what 
they sent me:

3/32X4X8M90---3/32X4'X8'MAH 3 PLY 90 DEGREE--x3
2.5MMX4X4BBIRCH PLY 5 PLY---x3
6MMX4X4B--BIRCH PLY 7 PLY---x1

Now going through the plans I know the 3/32 is the skin. The plans call for 
a lot of 1/4 and I'm guessing that is the 6mm but I only have a 4x4 sheet of 
it. so what is the opinion of the group where to use the 6mm and the 2.5 mm?

thanks
Tom
brady...@hotmail.com

KR> PLywood kit from Wicks

[Mark Jones]

The 6mm is definitely for your firewall. The 2.5mm is equalivant to 3/32" 
and is to be used to make your spar webbing.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI
Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com
E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com

- Original Message - 
From: "thomas brady" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:15 PM
Subject: KR> PLywood kit from Wicks


> Hello all, Just a question about the plywood kit from Wicks. THis is what
> they sent me:
>
> 3/32X4X8M90---3/32X4'X8'MAH 3 PLY 90 DEGREE--x3
> 2.5MMX4X4BBIRCH PLY 5 PLY---x3
> 6MMX4X4B--BIRCH PLY 7 PLY---x1
>
> Now going through the plans I know the 3/32 is the skin. The plans call 
> for
> a lot of 1/4 and I'm guessing that is the 6mm but I only have a 4x4 sheet 
> of
> it. so what is the opinion of the group where to use the 6mm and the 2.5 
> mm?
>
> thanks
> Tom
> brady...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR>Plywood vs composite skins

[Traveler]

On the pros and cons of using plywood vs. composite skins here's a couple of 
interesting posts. The first is an excerpt by Ron Scott in a piece in the 
Winter 2000 SAA
magazine. ( www.sportaviation.org )  Of course prices have gone up since the 
article was written. 

ALTERNATE MATERIALS

Ron Scott,  SAA #67

"Have you priced plywood lately? A well known aircraft supply house lists a 
4'x8'x1/16 " of 45° mahogany plywood at $161.00 plus freight. This would be the 
variety one would skin a Tailwind wing with. Then the plywood is normally 
covered with polyester fabric to pre-vent cracking of the final paint job on 
the wing...a further cost. 

Fiberglass sheet might be an alternate material for this application. Looking 
at today's prices for glass cloth (10 oz.) and vinyl ester resins, the cost of 
a 4'x8x(approximately)1/16" sheet would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 
$40.00. This assumes a 2 ply lay-up on a smooth waxed table. Once set up, one 
could lay-up a 4'x8' skin in about 15 minutes. After the skin has cured, it is 
bonded to the wing structure using an epoxy adhesive. All bonding areas must be 
cleaned and scuffed before bonding. Ol' Ironsides is now 31 years old and still 
going strong using the above process on the whole airframe in a skin stressed 
application. Since no additional fabric is required on top of the plywood, the 
glass skins are just sanded and painted...another cost reduction. 

Unless you are blessed with a mattress full of greenbacks, you may want to 
check further into alternate materials and "beat the system" on the ever 
increasing high cost of construction materials. 

If you would like further information on fiberglass covering and fiberglass 
landing gear fabrication, see November, 1971, January, 1972 and February, 1972 
in Sport Aviation."

A different viewpoint (in part) is put forward by Bob Waldmiller concerning 
wing skins. He is building a highly modified aircraft called "Excalibur" based 
on the Corby Starlet for One Design aerobatic competition. This is a short 
excerpt from a very interesting article. Some of his ideas could be used by KR 
builders. The extended  article and pictures are at www.eaa1000.av.org . Click 
on "Aircraft our members are building" and navigate down to Excalibur.

The heaviest thing about a plywood covered wing is the skin. Unfortunately, 
even though a wing skin is lightly stressed, the skin must be stiff enough to 
resist buckling. I needed the plywood skin to carry wing torsional loads so 
going back to a fabric covered wing was completely out of the question. How 
about high tech composites? Most people don't realize just how heavy a high 
tech material such as carbon fiber/epoxy really is; it's roughly three times 
heavier than birch plywood. So why don't I just make the carbon wing skins 1/3 
the thickness of the plywood skins? Well, when you do that, the carbon skins 
are only 25% as stiff as plywood for buckling resistance. The bottom line is a 
solid carbon fiber skin, designed to the same buckling criteria as a solid wood 
skin, will be heavier. So next time someone tells you that they wouldn't 
consider flying a wooden airplane, you can tell them that wood is, pound for 
pound, more efficient than carbon fiber when used for wing skins...and it's 
cheaper! 

The wing spar is a totally different animal, however. A wood wing spar is quite 
heavy when compared to a carbon fiber equivalent. I did the math and there was 
no way to justify a wood spar in Excalibur. Carbon fiber has material 
properties (strength and modulus of elasticity) that are an order of magnitude 
higher than Douglas Fir and even though the density of carbon fiber is 3 times 
higher, you only need 1/10th the amount of material. Unlike wing skins, a spar 
doesn't generally have limits placed on it for buckling problems. Its shape 
takes care of that. The result was I could build a carbon fiber spar that would 
carry my 750 pound airplane to ±10 g's and it would weigh only 19 pounds! 
That's probably half the weight of the Douglas Fir equivalent! All in all, the 
lighter but stronger spar made up for some of the weight of the plywood wing 
skins.

Thomas Dalby
Boulder City, NV
KR-1.5 

KR>Plywood vs composite skins

[ksto...@juno.com]

Re:  > I dont feel that plywood is a good choice. 

Hi everyone... from Mattoon, IL.   I am a newbee to the KRNet as of a couple of 
days ago.  This will be my first post.  

I would really be afraid to use sandwiched foam for plywood.  If you think 
about it, when you hang 150+ lbs on the firewall, the fuselage sides between 
the engine and the landing gear take a lot of stress.  The top longerons are 
being stretched (tension), and the bottom ones are trying to buckle 
(compression).  The plywood is crucial in sharing this load.   It serves as a 
shear web for the trussed fuselage and insures that the sides maintain their 
shape in load.   The outer skin of a sandwich would do very little in sharing 
that shear load because it is only attached to the fuselage by the core foam.   
Sandwiched structure is great for other types of loads, but I think that the 
outer skin of the sandwich in that application would only keep the wind out 
like Mark said.

I agree with Mark in that you cannot beat plywood.  I’ve been filling and 
sanding my wings for a few weeks now and will finally just give up and take 
defeat from some of the inperfections.

That all said, I think it IS neat to brainstorm ideas and the ‘what ifs’.  I’m 
not hanging my life on a plywood structure substitute, but IF I were on a 
desert island  that had plenty of spruce, foam, glass and epoxy… but no 
plywood, I think I would sandwich the spruce members between fiberglass layers 
on the fuselage.  In other words, I would put foam between the spruce members… 
sand it to the thickness of the side frames, and then glass both sides (inside 
and out & biased to the longerons) with a couple of layers of glass, being sure 
to bond the glass to the spruce everywhere.   I think that would make a much 
better structure than gluing sandwiched foam to the outside of the fuselage.  
You would need to glass AFTER the fuselage is assembled because I doubt that 
you could bend the sides after the glass was applied to both sides of the side 
frames.  Even if you could, the inside skin would go into compression and do 
less good.  You would also have lots of fun trying to sand the foam on the 
inside surfaces… and would need to sand perpendicular to the longerons on the 
outside to maintain the fuselage curvature.  After the boat stage were 
finished, I think I would probably get homesick and try using the structure to 
float home rather than spending 20 more years on the island building something 
airworthy!  (I’ve been building mine since ‘81).

Good luck in whatever you decide, but just remember that neat ideas may get you 
into some real trouble some day if you aren’t careful!  I’m sure I will get a 
flashback of every deviation from plans that I have made when I get that dude 
up to 500 feet for the first time!

Take care,

Kerwyn Stoll
Mattoon, IL
KR2 N40102 (60%)

KR>Plywood vs composite skins

[Justin]

You are incorrect by you saying it is hanging on by the foam. I am making it
to where the wood and fiberglass are having full contact the entire fuselage
which it will be doing the same work as the plywood.

A few ways of doing the load is either put the glass on at a 45 or put
one going along with the longerons and the other vertical. I will still have
to do my design and annalists on this with it compared to plywood (AS&S).

Justin
- Original Message -
From: 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: KR>Plywood vs composite skins


>
> Re:  > I dont feel that plywood is a good choice.
>
> Hi everyone... from Mattoon, IL.   I am a newbee to the KRNet as of a
couple of days ago.  This will be my first post.
>
> I would really be afraid to use sandwiched foam for plywood.  If you think
about it, when you hang 150+ lbs on the firewall, the fuselage sides between
the engine and the landing gear take a lot of stress.  The top longerons are
being stretched (tension), and the bottom ones are trying to buckle
(compression).  The plywood is crucial in sharing this load.   It serves as
a shear web for the trussed fuselage and insures that the sides maintain
their shape in load.   The outer skin of a sandwich would do very little in
sharing that shear load because it is only attached to the fuselage by the
core foam.   Sandwiched structure is great for other types of loads, but I
think that the outer skin of the sandwich in that application would only
keep the wind out like Mark said.
>
> I agree with Mark in that you cannot beat plywood.  I've been filling and
sanding my wings for a few weeks now and will finally just give up and take
defeat from some of the inperfections.
>
> That all said, I think it IS neat to brainstorm ideas and the 'what ifs'.
I'm not hanging my life on a plywood structure substitute, but IF I were on
a desert island  that had plenty of spruce, foam, glass and epoxy. but no
plywood, I think I would sandwich the spruce members between fiberglass
layers on the fuselage.  In other words, I would put foam between the spruce
members. sand it to the thickness of the side frames, and then glass both
sides (inside and out & biased to the longerons) with a couple of layers of
glass, being sure to bond the glass to the spruce everywhere.   I think that
would make a much better structure than gluing sandwiched foam to the
outside of the fuselage.  You would need to glass AFTER the fuselage is
assembled because I doubt that you could bend the sides after the glass was
applied to both sides of the side frames.  Even if you could, the inside
skin would go into compression and do less good.  You would also have lots
of fun trying to sand !
>  the foam on the inside surfaces. and would need to sand perpendicular to
the longerons on the outside to maintain the fuselage curvature.  After the
boat stage were finished, I think I would probably get homesick and try
using the structure to float home rather than spending 20 more years on the
island building something airworthy!  (I've been building mine since '81).
>
> Good luck in whatever you decide, but just remember that neat ideas may
get you into some real trouble some day if you aren't careful!  I'm sure I
will get a flashback of every deviation from plans that I have made when I
get that dude up to 500 feet for the first time!
>
> Take care,
>
> Kerwyn Stoll
> Mattoon, IL
> KR2 N40102 (60%)
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

KR>Plywood vs composite skins

[Larry A Capps]

There is absolutely no reason for building a "Composite Fuselage" version of
the KR and including the 5/8" square spruce used to constructed the KR
fuselage sides/top/bottom.  In a composite fuselage, except for a top
longeron (running from firewall to TE of wing), the 5/8" square spruce would
be nothing more than weight and additional work.

Beam me up Scotty,

Larry A Capps
KR Newsletter
Naperville, IL


-Original Message-
You are incorrect by you saying it is hanging on by the foam.

I am making it
to where the wood and fiberglass
having full contact the entire fuselage
which it will be doing the same work as the plywood.

KR>Plywood vs composite skins

[ronev...@aol.com]

Netters;
 I would like to respond to the statement made regarding plywood.   "If 
you think about it, when you hang 150+ lbs on the firewall, the fuselage sides 
between the engine and the landing gear take a lot of stress.  The top 
longerons are being stretched (tension), and the bottom ones are trying to 
buckle..."
 A few years ago, I flew out to Victorville, Ca., to check out a KR-2 
that was being parted out.  I thought that maybe I could get a deal on some 
parts.  The airplane had about 50 hours on it, and was flying behind a 
Revmaster.  
After buying the airplane from the original builder, the new owner took it up 
for his first flight.  On landing, the gear collapsed and the airplane broke 
in half...right in front of the main spar.  Imagine if that would have happened 
if he was still in the air.  (The part about it breaking in half, not the 
gear collapse).  There would be one more black eye for homebuilders and KRs. 
Indeed, the area between the front spar and the firewall undergoes a tremendous 
amount of stress, as indicated by where the airplane broke when the gear 
collapsed.  After seeing that, I went home and installed birch plywood on the 
interior of my airplane between the front spar and the firewall.  In addition 
to the 
added strength, I plan to avoid bad landings.  

RV 

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)]

Hi all, 
I know, some time ago here was discussed this question. But there were talking 
about sides skins to be laminated. For me here is clear, I will do as Eduardo 
Barros from Argentina.
I would like to ask your opinion about composite sheet which is used 
for Printed Circuit Board, of course without cooper.
This kind of material I am planning to use just on the spars. Why not plywood, 
I simple can not obtain it here (aircraft grade) and I would like to avoid 
using of plywood. But I have this PCB sheet in 2mm thickness, it has about 10 
layers of laminated fibers which is pressed together and cooked. Compared with 
plywood it is much stronger, although there could be some weight penalty (just 
a little), which is not significant. Any idea? I hope you will understand my 
question, sorry for my English.

 BR,
Alex

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Dan Heath]

RE:  But I have this PCB sheet in 2mm thickness, it has about 10 layers of
laminated fibers which is pressed together and cooked. Compared with plywood
it is much stronger, 


Alex,

I am sure that it is strong, but  I am concerned that it would be brittle
and under stress could crack.  I would not use it on a spar for sure.  I
also question how well it will adhere to another material.

I am not saying "don't use it", what I am saying is "I would not use it".

What material are other builders in Argentina using? 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)]

Thanks Dan,
I have to say it is not brittle, as about gluing, before it should be sanded, 
as ordinary Fiberglas. In fact it is a Fiberglas, just difference is in that 
the fiberglass layers are pressed and cooked at high temperature vs ours wing 
skins are not pressed and normally cure at room temperature.

I am not from Argentina, I just mentioned Eduardo Barros site. 

BR,
Alex Birca
Moldova


Alex,
I am sure that it is strong, but  I am concerned that it would be brittle
and under stress could crack.  I would not use it on a spar for sure.  I
also question how well it will adhere to another material.

I am not saying "don't use it", what I am saying is "I would not use it".

What material are other builders in Argentina using? 

N64KR
Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)]

Hi again,
I found some description of related material that I would like to use:

Flat Stock Laminates, multiple layers of fiberglass 
cloth are impregnated with an epoxy system and hydraulic press cured.



-Original Message-
From: Dan Heath [mailto:da...@alltel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 1:05 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR>plywood vs composite skins


RE:  But I have this PCB sheet in 2mm thickness, it has about 10 layers of
laminated fibers which is pressed together and cooked. Compared with plywood
it is much stronger, 

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Brian Kraut]

I am very familiar with printed circuit boards and most of the ones I 
have seen are a little light on the glass and heavy on the epoxy, but 
there are a zillion different kinds.

Alexander Birca (MD/RMD) wrote:

>   Hi all, 
>I know, some time ago here was discussed this question. But there were talking 
>about sides skins to be laminated. For me here is clear, I will do as Eduardo 
>Barros from Argentina.
>   I would like to ask your opinion about composite sheet which is used 
> for Printed Circuit Board, of course without cooper.
>This kind of material I am planning to use just on the spars. Why not plywood, 
>I simple can not obtain it here (aircraft grade) and I would like to avoid 
>using of plywood. But I have this PCB sheet in 2mm thickness, it has about 10 
>layers of laminated fibers which is pressed together and cooked. Compared with 
>plywood it is much stronger, although there could be some weight penalty (just 
>a little), which is not significant. Any idea? I hope you will understand my 
>question, sorry for my English.
>
> BR,
>Alex
>
>___
>see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Eduardo M. Iglesias]

Dan, Alex.

Eduardo Barros put 3 layers of bid and epoxi in the exterior side and one in
the interior of the fuselage.
Mark Langford has more information about.
Have a good work
Eduardo Iglesias
La Pampa
Argentina


- Original Message -
From: "Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)" 
To: "'KR builders and pilots'" 
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: KR>plywood vs composite skins


>
> Thanks Dan,
> I have to say it is not brittle, as about gluing, before it should be
sanded, as ordinary Fiberglas. In fact it is a Fiberglas, just difference is
in that the fiberglass layers are pressed and cooked at high temperature vs
ours wing skins are not pressed and normally cure at room temperature.
>
> I am not from Argentina, I just mentioned Eduardo Barros site.
>
> BR,
> Alex Birca
> Moldova
>
>
> Alex,
> I am sure that it is strong, but  I am concerned that it would be brittle
> and under stress could crack.  I would not use it on a spar for sure.  I
> also question how well it will adhere to another material.
>
> I am not saying "don't use it", what I am saying is "I would not use it".
>
> What material are other builders in Argentina using?
>
> N64KR
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
>

---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

KR>plywood vs composite skins

[Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)]

Thanks Eduardo, good info. 

BR,
Alex Birca
Moldova

-Original Message-
From: Eduardo M. Iglesias [mailto:emigles...@cpenet.com.ar]
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 6:08 AM
To: KR builders and pilots
Subject: Re: KR>plywood vs composite skins


Dan, Alex.

Eduardo Barros put 3 layers of bid and epoxi in the exterior side and one in
the interior of the fuselage.
Mark Langford has more information about.
Have a good work
Eduardo Iglesias
La Pampa
Argentina


- Original Message -
From: "Alexander Birca (MD/RMD)" 
To: "'KR builders and pilots'" 
Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 7:20 AM
Subject: RE: KR>plywood vs composite skins


>
> Thanks Dan,
> I have to say it is not brittle, as about gluing, before it should be
sanded, as ordinary Fiberglas. In fact it is a Fiberglas, just difference is
in that the fiberglass layers are pressed and cooked at high temperature vs
ours wing skins are not pressed and normally cure at room temperature.
>
> I am not from Argentina, I just mentioned Eduardo Barros site.
>
> BR,
> Alex Birca
> Moldova
>
>
> Alex,
> I am sure that it is strong, but  I am concerned that it would be brittle
> and under stress could crack.  I would not use it on a spar for sure.  I
> also question how well it will adhere to another material.
>
> I am not saying "don't use it", what I am saying is "I would not use it".
>
> What material are other builders in Argentina using?
>
> N64KR
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
>
>
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
>

---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]


___
see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR> Plywood orientation/how much T-88

[Christopher Pryce]

I'm almost done with my gallon kit and I ordered another quart in case I
run out. That being said, I was quite liberal with my T-88 when making my
spars and had a lot of squeeze out. I don't anticipate using the rest of my
quart.

Chris Pryce

KR> 'Plywood' for flying machines? And, a POSSIBLE source of structural wood?

[WxBY]

Long ago & far away we heard/read a couple of suggestions:  [at that time the 
ideas were put forward in relation to Ken's KR-1-type - - - I don't think he 
and/or Stu had even started to think about the -2's] - - - - - locate 
specs/sources of mahogany plywood as used in the manufacturing of hollow-core 
doors' skins. As far as structural wood, the idea was put forth to locate a 
source of Douglas fir of a [certified] grade called "ladder rail" material; 
supposedly it is more closely inspected than any FAA wood as far as grain, 
slope, inclusion, pitch pockets, etc.  Usually supplied in various lengths of 
(dimensioned) 2x4, 2x5 and 2x6 which can of course be cut & planed to a/c plans 
specs.





-Original Message-
From: bepe 
To: KRnet 
Sent: Fri, Sep 16, 2011 5:31 am
Subject: Re: KR> KR-2 Wood (a bit long story)


Thankyou Peter
erry
--
erry
 think you were very wise not to fly a plane built with Rhamin. It is a 
hort-fibered hardwood totally unsuitable for this kind of structural use.
Peter Drake
ww.peterskr2s.co.uk

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