KR>Engine failure video

[Oscar Zuniga]

John Bouyea wrote-

>After seeing this graceful example video, I need to spend more time climbing 
>to altitude...

With a turbocharged engine, you're leaving speed and efficiency on the table by 
not​ flying up in the thin air, amigo.  Let those ponies loose!

Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR

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KR>Engine failure video

[Jeff Scott]

If you guys have ever wondered why some of our intrepid KR Aviators always 
travel at >10,000', watch the following Youtube Video 
.  This guy has a 
catastrophic failure with the engine on his Cessna 205 while on an IFR flight 
plan at 9000' over Portland, OR.  He's got distance from altitude to easily 
make an airport and enough time to order a Dominos pizza on his app during the 
descent to have waiting for him at the airport before he's on the ground.   
Altitude  give you time and distance and is your best friend when things go 
wrong... unless you are on fire.

-Jeff Scott
Arkansas Ozarks

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KR>engine failure - fuel pumps

[Flesner]

I would like to say it's less that I have a lack of confidence in restart
but rather I have high confidence, even certainty that all machines will at
some point fail to fullfill their intended function.  Maintenance can, but
obviously does not always avoid the failure(s).

"What can go wrong will..."


+

Life is full or cost / benefit decisions. We either accept the cost / 
consequences of what we're doing or we do something different.  At some 
point your concern over what will happen will outweigh the pleasure you 
get from doing it and you'll quit that activity.


I'm quite familiar with equipment failure.  I worked on office equipment 
, some machines running up to a million copies a month, for Xerox for 33 
years taking service calls on failed equipment every day.  Failure on a 
copy machine is quite different that a failure of consequence on my KR.  
I'm lucky so far in that the only failure of consequences on my KR was 
nearly 800 hours ago in early testing.  I had planned for a possible 
failure in that system , designed and installed backup, and the rest is 
history.


Not sure what action I'd consider if I were flying a Lake Amphibian.  
Either run with continuous electric backup or install a humongous red 
light on the panel that when you lost fuel pump pressure it would 
illuminate and startle you into turning on the electric backup.  I guess 
that second option would not be legal on a "factory certified 
airplane".  😁


Go fly - have fun - we're all living on borrowed time...

Larry Flesner


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KR>Engine

[Ken Henderson]

Chad,
If the deal was sweet enough on the 0-320 you might consider buying it with
the thought of selling/trading it for an 0-200.
I guess that depends on the desirability of the 0-320. Not my field but I'm
sure someone will chime in.

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KR>Engine

[Chad Robertson]

I am new to the entire KR world my question is I have the opportunity to 
purchase a Lycoming 0 320 and I was just curious if anybody had ever put one on 
a KR or if that was just way too much engine for the airframe.  From what I can 
figure out it would weigh approximately 250 pounds wet. I am looking forward to 
meeting people at the gathering deck and show me how to get around in the 
archives so I can look this stuff up I apologize in advance if this is just a 
crazy question

Chadrobertson2951@ Gmail.   N6GM

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KR>engine cowling

[Dean Choitz via KRnet]

i am using the 5.75 or 6 oz fiberglass how many layers do you or should you lay 
up to make the engine cowling and do most finish the outer with deck cloth 
thanks dean choitz

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Re: KR> Engine mounts

[Kevin Stolhammer via KRnet]

>
> Thanks to all for sharing W&B experience and spreadsheets, and
> advice/opinions.  Heading to the shop now, I'll post my experience in a few
> days...
>
Kevin
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Re: KR> Engine mounts

[John Bouyea via KRnet]

Kevin,

Glad to see you have REAL weights so far and that's an important step. I
assume you took them tail up, ie inflight attitude.

Figuring out your engine location to meet your desired CG is not too hard. 

I'd recommend you set your firewall as the datum; is isn't going to move.
Ever. And I guess the leading edge of the stub wing works as well. Your
airplane so your choice.

* Get your aircraft landing gear arms measured while in an inflight
attitude;

* Figure your pilot/ passenger arm, the fuel arm(s) and anything else you
want on your W&B sheet as Don mentioned below

 

Now solve for CG where;

* all your known arms times their respective weights summed

* minus your known engine weight times variable arm Y (it's negative because
it is FORWARD of the firewall or wing leading edge datum)

gives you the loaded CG point you want

 

For example and THESE ARE JUST GUESSES SO DO THE WORK & MATH YOURSELF!

(Put in your own numbers to come up with your solution)

 

Your empty AC weight is 331# where 276# is main wheels & 55# is the
tailwheel

Multiply those by their respective arms to get your positive AC structure
moment

Add your pilot moment (you're skinny, 145# times the arm)

Add your fuel moment ((guessing fuel capacity @ 14G times 6#/ gal) times the
arm)

So now you have AC + pilot + fuel for an empty weight & moment

 

Now you know that the engine weight is 182# at a starting NEGATIVE arm of
-11.5" 

 



 

If this doesn't work out, change the engine (mount) arm to come up with what
you DO want.

Does this make sense?

 

John Bouyea

N133RM KR-2S - imported, fixed & flying

 <http://www.bouyea.net/cur_proj/N133RM> www.bouyea.net/cur_proj/N133RM 

OR81/ Hillsboro, OR

 

-Original Message-
Subject: Re: KR> Engine mounts

Kevin: Going by numbers only could cause a miss in CG location for your

mount moment. I would ensure the craft is done firewall back including

wings and place sandbags in seats to get accurate estimated flight weight

.

Don Taylor-monoplane and KR-2  builder

 

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 10:02 AM Kevin Stolhammer via KRnet <

> So, my KR 2 (less engine) wieghed in at 331 (276 on mains, 55 on t/w).  My

> engine weighs 182 (center of mass 11.5" forward of mounts).  Can anyone

> point me to a specific formula to calculate engine placement?  I have my

> jig ready to weld the mount, just trying to dial in the spacing from FW to

> Eng Mnt.

> Thanks,

> Kevin

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Re: KR> Engine mounts

[donald january via KRnet]

Kevin: Going by numbers only could cause a miss in CG location for your
mount moment. I would ensure the craft is done firewall back including
wings and place sandbags in seats to get accurate estimated flight weight
and place craft on jacks at the rear of front root spar at desired CG
location and engineer a way to match engine mount weight and prop and
cowling. Hang engine until you balance out the craft to meet your CG
requirement. Little things such as battery placement etc. should be placed.
Not doing it this way could cause weight to be added to the nose or tail to
get the craft to meet CG range. Just my thoughts on the question. Don
 Taylor-monoplane and KR-2  builder

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 10:02 AM Kevin Stolhammer via KRnet <
krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:

> So, my KR 2 (less engine) wieghed in at 331 (276 on mains, 55 on t/w).  My
> engine weighs 182 (center of mass 11.5" forward of mounts).  Can anyone
> point me to a specific formula to calculate engine placement?  I have my
> jig ready to weld the mount, just trying to dial in the spacing from FW to
> Eng Mnt.
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
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KR> Engine mounts

[Kevin Stolhammer via KRnet]

So, my KR 2 (less engine) wieghed in at 331 (276 on mains, 55 on t/w).  My
engine weighs 182 (center of mass 11.5" forward of mounts).  Can anyone
point me to a specific formula to calculate engine placement?  I have my
jig ready to weld the mount, just trying to dial in the spacing from FW to
Eng Mnt.

Thanks,
Kevin
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KR> Engine query

[Mike Stirewalt via KRnet]

Dr. Hsu said, 

> "I was wondering if anyone knows the weight of a Revmaster2100D engine?
I am
thinking of replacing it with a Jabiru 3100 engine . . ." 

Info on the particular 2100D you're referring to can be found, for that
specific engine, at Revmaster.  They keep meticulous records of each
engine to the best of their ability.  Reference their website or call Joe
Horvath.  

***

Re the Jabiru . . . Colin Hale is the Jabiru fundi on KRNET.  I've no
personal experience with them but feedback from those who have chosen
Jabiru have been negative.   For me, my opinion on them is conclusive. 
For you or anyone else interested, you need to look into it.  Send Colin
an email.  Search the archives for his address.  

Mike
KSEE


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Re: KR> Engine Compression ratio increase effect

[Joe via KRnet]

After rethinking it was swift fuel replacement for 100LL not ul94. I
will not use ethonal in fiberglasstanks. Sorry for the confusion.Joe.

-From: "Kayak via KRnet" 
To: "KRnet"
Cc: "Kayak"
Sent: Sunday February 2 2020 10:09:58AM
Subject: Re: KR> Engine Compression ratio increase effect

 Hi Joe, what was the original O-320 compression ratio and HP. IIRC
there
 was 150 and 160 hp. I'm wondering how you'd notice what looks by
numbers to
 be a relatively small increase. How much did top speed and climb rate
 change?

 On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 9:16 AM Joe via KRnet  wrote:

 > I tried in and have seen no difference in performance when I had my
 > O-320 with low compression.I have not tested with the new engine. I
 > boosted to 160 hp and high compression pistons. Love the
performance
 > but have not tried since rebuilding the engine.
 > Joe Malsack
 >
 >
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Re: KR> Engine Compression ratio increase effect

[Flesner via KRnet]

On 2/2/2020 10:09 AM, Kayak via KRnet wrote:

Hi Joe, what was the original O-320 compression ratio and HP.  IIRC there
was 150 and 160 hp. I'm wondering how you'd notice what looks by numbers to
be a relatively small increase. How much did top speed and climb rate
change?




I'm not Joe but my 0-320 in the Tripacer was the 150 hp model.  I found 
no detectable difference in performance between auto fuel and 100LL 
other than auto fuel seemed to run cleaner as far as engine deposits 
went.  Same on the performance of the 0-200 in the KR.  Both engines 
were of the moderately low compression type and didn't require a high 
octane fuel.  When it came to performance there was not way to tell what 
type fuel I had in the tank. With  two such basically similar fuels it 
comes down to two things: what is the octane requirement and how will 
the chemical makeup of the fuel affect the fuel system.  I think those 
two concerns hold true for any engine of any compression ratio.


Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> Engine Compression ratio increase effect

[Kayak via KRnet]

Hi Joe, what was the original O-320 compression ratio and HP.  IIRC there
was 150 and 160 hp. I'm wondering how you'd notice what looks by numbers to
be a relatively small increase. How much did top speed and climb rate
change?


On Sun, Feb 2, 2020 at 9:16 AM Joe via KRnet  wrote:

> I tried in and have seen no difference in performance when I had my
> O-320 with low compression.I have not tested with the new engine. I
> boosted to 160 hp and high compression pistons. Love the performance
> but have not tried since rebuilding the engine.
> Joe Malsack
>
>
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Re: KR> Engine Selection

[mark jones via KRnet]

And remember I was flying my first Corvair with only four cylinders due to the 
front two overheating crystalizing the rings. I flew like this several hours 
before you and I tore the engine down. I did not even know it was happening.  
Langford was visiting me and we were going to go fly and decided to do a 
compression check first. Well we did not go fly yet we tore the engine apart. 

Mark Jones
flyk...@gmail.com

> The first downside
> is only four cylinders.  Loose one and you are going down somewhere
> nearby, not up.  With a six cylinder Corvair, Steve Makish once took off
> with a dead cylinder from SNF (he thought a plug was fouled and would
> clear up on takeoff), and flew it all the way home that way!  That's
> huge..___
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Re: KR> Engine Selection

[Daniel Heath via KRnet]

Given the vote for the Rotax, I can only assume that you are amenable to the 
more expensive engines.  For the same weight and cost of a Rotax, you can get a 
UL Power.  You should at least look into it.  It is a more conventional 
configuration like the O-200, than is the Rotax.  I am using the UL 350 IS on 
my Panther and wish I knew about it when I was building my last KR.  It is a 
FADEC engine producing 130hp on around 175 pounds.  I think it is the perfect 
engine for a KR2S.  

Check it out.

My Panther Building Documentation at PantherBuilder Web Site

Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

-Original Message-
Subject: Re: KR> Engine Selection


My guess is that the o-200 is probably the second best (and cheapest) engine 
for the KR.   

My vote for best would 100hp Rotax 912 for general general use and turbo 914 
for high long cross country. 



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Re: KR> Engine Selection

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Owen wrote:

>> Yeah, my son is hooked on the VW’s.   But I keep seeing things like the 
>> experiences of folks trying to push overloaded VW vans with the those ol 
>> engines and imagine we’d get similar reliability (or lack of it - have you 
>> ever seen this youtube series  - https://youtu.be/7zfg-XJ99hg 
>>  ?).<<

Although I'm a die-hard VW guy (still have my 74 Ghia that I bought new,
with 2180cc engine, big valve heads, dual 40IDF Weber carbs, etc), I too
am not a fan of flying behind an aircooled engine.  The first downside
is only four cylinders.  Loose one and you are going down somewhere
nearby, not up.  With a six cylinder Corvair, Steve Makish once took off
with a dead cylinder from SNF (he thought a plug was fouled and would
clear up on takeoff), and flew it all the way home that way!  That's
huge...it just wasn't a bad enough vibration to conern him.  

And then there's the valve problem with VWs...constantly having to
adjust them, and then when things go bad, they go very bad in a
hurrylike under 2 seconds from wide open to seized prop.  I've done
a lot of research and enough trial and error physical testing with head
cooling, and what finally made the VW work was putting a set of
Revmaster heads on it.  Now the valves barely change clearance (if at
all) between adjustments, and I'm a lot more confident in the engine
than I've ever been.  Broken cranks simply don't happen with either a
GPASC or Revmaster front bearing, and the rest is fairly robust.

So despite my incessant complaining about VW engines in airplanes, I
still climb in it and fly it to OSH or wherever else I want to go.  The
tradeoff is worth it.  Flying with some risk that I may tear it up in a
field somewhere after the engine quits, or maybe even kill myself, but
it's still worth it to FLY!!  It beats the ground-bound alternative any
day

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
ML "at" N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com



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Re: KR> Engine Selection

[svd via KRnet]

(I apologize for this and all my posts - I really over think things and often 
run down unproductive rabbit holes.  No wonder my first plane (an Osprey2) took 
almost 20 years to build.  I try to keep these ramblings to myself, but 
occasionally they creep out.)

Anyways...

I've been tormented over engine selection ever since my son started his KR 
project (https://hugheskr2s.yolasite.com <https://hugheskr2s.yolasite.com/>).

My guess is that the o-200 is probably the second best (and cheapest) engine 
for the KR.   

My vote for best would 100hp Rotax 912 for general general use and turbo 914 
for high long cross country. 

On the “alternative” front, in my STOL flying, one of my buddies flies a Yamaha 
RX1 powered (140hp at 10,000rpm) Highlander.  He (and now a lot of others have) 
had great experience with with the engine.  Who knows, maybe it will be a 
viable alternative to the Rotax.   There was just a Kitfox RX1 FWF package 
advertised locally on craigslist for $5200 - so pretty cheap.

There’s something about the KR that just screams for the simplicity and grass 
roots of the VW.  It seems like it should also be the cheapest, but after 
rebuilding it a few times costs add up.

Unfortunately we now have 3 VWs and none of them were all that simple. Indeed 
all of them are very interesting, but all probably not what I’d like my son to 
fly behind.  The project came with a Hapi Magnum engine (94mm bore x 69mm stoke 
and individual scat heads). Worries about cooling led me to sell the scat heads 
(to a fellow making 1/2 VWs) and purchase a home brew Great Plains.   That 
engine was extremely interesting, having been built up by a retired Ford engine 
engineer with LN Engineering (Nickies) Aluminum cylinders, fuel injection, 
turbo charger, electronic ignition and injection control, etc. etc.Finally 
- to cap the rare and way too interesting VW engine saga, a Great Plains “Top 
Bug” 2600 Type 4 (103x78, also fuel injected and electric ignition, ForceOne 
crank/hub, alternator)  Yikes!  

Yeah, my son is hooked on the VW’s.   But I keep seeing things like the 
experiences of folks trying to push overloaded VW vans with the those ol 
engines and imagine we’d get similar reliability (or lack of it - have you ever 
seen this youtube series  - https://youtu.be/7zfg-XJ99hg 
<https://youtu.be/7zfg-XJ99hg> ?). 

I've survived two engine outs (one a rotax 503 and the other a o-200 cont), and 
really would prefer not to see a third. Ironically, the engine I recommend is 
either a Rotax or a Continental o-200. However it is clear that the mean time 
between failures is far higher for the VW. 

Anyways, it is also clear that the KR can make great use of extra horsepower.   
With more HP, the KR goes faster.   Obvious?  Not really. Adding hp to a lot of 
airplanes mostly increases climb rate but has minimal effect on cruise speed.   
The reason for that weird phenomenon has a bit to do with the exponential 
increase of drag with speed, and a good bit to do with a more complex aspect of 
aerodynamics similar the the hull speed limitation of ships.  

With the realistic ~60hp a VW will pump out, they seem to see ~130mph.With 
100hp from an o-200 a lot of folks are seeing something closer to 160mph.

So your choice for reliably getting 100hp? Either a 165lb Rotax 912 that burns 
4.5gph or a 225lb Continental o-200 burning 5.5gph.  I think you could lighten 
the o-200 quite a bit (sub 200lbs) with a light weight starter, replacing the 
mags with EI, and using a Ellison carb, but you’ll never get it close to the 
165lbs of the Rotax.

All that said, my son intends to stick to the VW.  He’s in a rush to get it 
finished and flying since he’s off to college next fall.  Me, well I’m looking 
for a 912 ;-)

Cheers,
Owen
https://sites.google.com/view/melbycavalier/home 
<https://sites.google.com/view/melbycavalier/home>
https://youtu.be/uHGx25FIYDg <https://youtu.be/uHGx25FIYDg> - Oshkosh
https://youtu.be/4aAJnWaqhUg <https://youtu.be/4aAJnWaqhUg> - Kitfox
https://youtu.be/njuvkIEl_VQ <https://youtu.be/njuvkIEl_VQ>




  
> On Dec 31, 2019, at 9:00 AM, krnet-requ...@list.krnet.org wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 19:19:34 +
> From: G R Pickett mailto:grpick...@hotmail.com>>
> To: "krnet@list.krnet.org <mailto:krnet@list.krnet.org>" 
> mailto:krnet@list.krnet.org>>
> Subject: KR> Engine Selection
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> <mailto:dm6pr07mb4923ea6515c317fde0843f69ae...@dm6pr07mb4923.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Just a reminder that today's VW engines was originally designed for flight 
> (target drones), and adapted to mass production for cars.  There was even a 
> German-certified Limbach, that produced about 6000 of them.  Their 
> performance in Beetles is legendary, b

KR> Engine Selection

[G R Pickett via KRnet]

Just a reminder that today's VW engines was originally designed for flight 
(target drones), and adapted to mass production for cars.  There was even a 
German-certified Limbach, that produced about 6000 of them.  Their performance 
in Beetles is legendary, but everyone who had one knows that they do require 
different maintenance than American liquid cooled auto engines.  Properly 
assembling them with modern modifications really seems to extend their TBO, but 
VeeDubs do  need more attention to the valves than Continentals.  Additionally, 
VW valves are less expensive to repair.
The KRs were built around the VW engine, and LOTS of builders have great 
success with them.  If today's builders want to try newer, more powerful 
engines in our KRs, we can do so - giving a little extra meaning to the 
category of "Experimental."  Names like Jabiru and Rotax sound like viable 
options.  Neither is That much cheaper than a Lycoming, and sometimes parts are 
more difficult to find at reasonable prices.
Myself, I've often thought that liquid cooling might be a good alternative for 
aircraft use, especially in the flight regimes use by most KR pilots.  Still, 
there haven't been so many liquid-cooled KRs flying for 10+ years that I can 
think of.  
Griff
   
-Original Message-
From: KRnet  On Behalf Of 
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Sent: Monday, December 30, 2019 11:00 AM
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 7, Issue 297

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Subaru 2 cents (Randy Smith)
   2.  Jabiru (laser...@juno.com)
   3. Re:  Jabiru (Martin Boyle)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 19:03:52 + (UTC)
From: Randy Smith 
To: Mike Sylvester via KRnet 
Subject: Re: KR> Subaru 2 cents
Message-ID: <1933260934.4623824.1577646232...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 I had 4 VW engines 2 subaru engines 1 con 75 and finely 1 0-200. I told myself 
I was done with VW and Subarus I lost 3 VW engines on the way to oshkosh,? VWs? 
all in Mo. area, Subaru in the pan handle of Florida. O-200 ran for 2 years 
with no problems. I sold the plane. I owned Less Palmers for a few years and 
Bud Willson for a year. I got my 47 Bellanca Cruiseair flying this year 
(rebuilt Engine)? I am selling my C310 next Febuary. Told my wife I am going to 
find another KR taildrager to fly.??
On Sunday, December 29, 2019, 08:37:02 AM CST, Mike Sylvester via KRnet 
 wrote:  
 
 Good morning guys, Every so often we get into the discussion of whether or not 
the Subaru is a good alternative to the airplane engine. As far back as I can 
remember I've had a wrench in my hand and I still consider myself a fair 
mechanic. We all would like to think that we could work out the issues flying 
behind a Subaru offers but several years ago I realized that the chances that I 
could find the "magical fix" that several thousand other pilots before me 
hadn't been able to do was just not worth the fight. I decided to go with the 
Cont. O-200 and after trips from Talladega Al. to Missouri, Wisconsin, Illinois 
and all over the southeast I have no regrets. My advice, spend a few extra 
bucks on a proven engine. You'll save $$$ in the long run.
? ? Just my opinion, your ideas may vary and that's OK.
Mike Sylvester
kr2s builder
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 13:03:07 -0800
From: 
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> Jabiru
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Larry commented, 

"I also wonder about the Jabiru."

We can learn from Colin Hale's experience when it comes to this engine. 
He himself said in one of his postings that the engine isn't very good. 
He knew the engine and its weaknesses and knew how to fix and deal with the 
Jabiru so he stuck with it - until it finally let him down in Japan. 
That off-field landing would have worked out fine I think had it not been a 
stepped-level golf driving range.  

A friend here at Chapter 14 had a Wittman Tailwind with the 3300 version of 
that engine.  He couldn't keep valve seats in

Re: KR> engine work

[Mike Sylvester via KRnet]

I'll agree with Jeff as I bought a mid time o-200 for the KR that was only 
supposed to have oil leaks. About an hour into test flights, the oil pressure 
bottomed out. Pulled it off, took it home and disassembled it. The main 
bearings were as bad as I have ever seen. Now I'm flying confidently behind a 
fresh O-200. It's the old saying, How much is your life worth ?

Mike Sylvester
kr2s builder
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854


From: KRnet  on behalf of Jeff Scott via KRnet 

Sent: Friday, October 25, 2019 2:13 PM
To: krnet@list.krnet.org 
Cc: Jeff Scott 
Subject: Re: KR> engine work

Easy guys.  I'm retired.

. That was in 1991 and that night I came very close to making a widow of my 
young wife and not getting to see my kids grow to adults.
-Jeff Scott

---




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Re: KR> engine work

[Flesner via KRnet]

On 10/25/2019 12:31 PM, Oscar Zuniga via KRnet wrote:

  He and Doug Reid may not have brought my A75 into this world, but they did a 
complete makeover on a rescue core




I didn't mention Doug Reid as I'm not sure he is soliciting work but, 
beyond Jeff's guidance, Doug is the one getting me back in the air 
within one month of initial tear-down.   Doug has no internet contact so 
I called to thank him personally for his quality workmanship, reasonable 
pricing, and quick turn-around. I'll ask Jeff to thank him again on his 
next contact with Doug. We have quality people on the KRnet.


Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> engine work

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

Easy guys.  I'm retired.  

Actually, my goal with engine work has been to ensure that my friends don't 
hurt themselves flying behind a marginal or failing engine.  I got into 
overhauling aircraft engines as a side line after buying an engine with 121 hrs 
SMOH, that blew up on a moonless night in the mountains at 200 hrs SMOH. That 
was in 1991 and that night I came very close to making a widow of my young wife 
and not getting to see my kids grow to adults.  What I found inside that engine 
convinced me to never fly behind another engine without tearing it down and 
inspecting for myself and to never, ever trust what is written in the engine 
logs.  Since that point in time, many of my friends have been flying behind 
engines I built for them.  Not because I wanted to build engines, but because I 
don't ever want to see one of my friends in the situation I found myself in 
back in 1991.  My friend Doug has always tag teamed the engines with me.  I do 
the disassembly and initial inspection.  I turn the parts and my credit card 
over to him to measure, spec out, repair, or replace as needed.  He takes a lot 
of pride in doing high quality valve work.  Once he gets all the individual 
parts overhauled, and back in one place, I do the engine build up an 
reassembly.  Unfortunately, since I retired and moved to Arkansas, Doug and I 
now live 1000 miles apart, so aren't actively doing much work together at this 
point in time.

All the same, thank you for the kudos.

-Jeff Scott

---

> Sent: Friday, October 25, 2019 at 12:31 PM
> From: "Oscar Zuniga via KRnet" 
> To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
> Cc: "Oscar Zuniga" 
> Subject: KR> engine work
>
> I just want to second what Larry and others have said about Jeff Scott.  He 
> is experienced and knowledgeable on a lot of things, but especially so on 
> Continentals and Lycomings.  He has helped me immeasurably on the care and 
> feeding of my Continental A75 (and the A65 that I previously had on my Piet). 
>  He and Doug Reid may not have brought my A75 into this world, but they did a 
> complete makeover on a rescue core that I found in a widow's garage where it 
> looked to all the world like a complete piece of junk but which is now my 
> pride and joy, dry and tight and running like a top.  Continental gold paint 
> with black cylinders and trim, "Powerful as the Nation".
> 
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC



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KR> engine work

[Oscar Zuniga via KRnet]

I just want to second what Larry and others have said about Jeff Scott.  He is 
experienced and knowledgeable on a lot of things, but especially so on 
Continentals and Lycomings.  He has helped me immeasurably on the care and 
feeding of my Continental A75 (and the A65 that I previously had on my Piet).  
He and Doug Reid may not have brought my A75 into this world, but they did a 
complete makeover on a rescue core that I found in a widow's garage where it 
looked to all the world like a complete piece of junk but which is now my pride 
and joy, dry and tight and running like a top.  Continental gold paint with 
black cylinders and trim, "Powerful as the Nation".

Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC
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Re: KR> engine work

[Flesner via KRnet]

On 10/24/2019 6:14 PM, Jeff Scott via KRnet wrote:

  Be kind to those old cylinders.  I
got a lot of good hours out of them.




And I hope to get a lot more.  They look good, inside and out. Thanks 
for all your help.


Larry


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Re: KR> engine work

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

Glad you're back up and going.  Be kind to those old cylinders.  I 
got a lot of good hours out of them. 

-Jeff



> Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 3:20 PM
> From: "Flesner via KRnet" 
> To: krnet@list.krnet.org
> Cc: Flesner 
> Subject: KR> engine work
>
> 
> Those of you at the Gathering will recall I had a bad cylinder on my 
> 0-200 just 100 hours after rebuild.  I removed that cylinder and a 
> second one on the same side that had an exhaust leak and sent them to a 
> reputable shop for rebuild.  Turns out they were both basically junk.  I 
> replace them both with good rebuilt cylinders and got the engine put 
> back together this week.  I did a short run yesterday to verify they 
> were both performing o.k. and another 5 minute run this afternoon to 
> check for any oil leaks. All looks good so the cowling is back on and 
> ready for a break in flight this weekend, probably Sunday, as the 
> weather forecast is sunny and calm winds.  I don't anticipate any 
> problems and 211LF will be back in the air.  Thanks to Jeff Scott for 
> his expertise and guidance.
> 
> Larry Flesner



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KR> engine work

[Flesner via KRnet]

Those of you at the Gathering will recall I had a bad cylinder on my 
0-200 just 100 hours after rebuild.  I removed that cylinder and a 
second one on the same side that had an exhaust leak and sent them to a 
reputable shop for rebuild.  Turns out they were both basically junk.  I 
replace them both with good rebuilt cylinders and got the engine put 
back together this week.  I did a short run yesterday to verify they 
were both performing o.k. and another 5 minute run this afternoon to 
check for any oil leaks. All looks good so the cowling is back on and 
ready for a break in flight this weekend, probably Sunday, as the 
weather forecast is sunny and calm winds.  I don't anticipate any 
problems and 211LF will be back in the air.  Thanks to Jeff Scott for 
his expertise and guidance.


Larry Flesner



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Re: KR> Engine mount

[Jon Sanders via KRnet]

I have a VW to Kr2 engine mount if interested.
Off line reply please jsand...@gvtc.com

Jon Sanders
> On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:51 AM, Hal Dantone via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm putting a new (to it) VW engine in a KR-1.
> What is a typical cost for an engine mount of that size?  
> I assume there are no sources of prefab mounts; are there? 
> 
> Thanks,  Hal Dantone
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KR> Engine mount

[Hal Dantone via KRnet]

I'm putting a new (to it) VW engine in a KR-1.
What is a typical cost for an engine mount of that size?  
I assume there are no sources of prefab mounts; are there? 

Thanks,  Hal Dantone
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KR> ENGINE MONITORING SYSTEM

[Eric James Pitts via KRnet]

Look out side the box
https://www.scintex.com.au/products/engine-monitoring-system


Eric Pitts
9099 Rosedale Rd
Terre Haute, Ind. 47805
812-878-0278

"Life should NOT be a  journey to the grave  with the  intention of arriving  
safely in an attractive and well  preserved body, but  rather to skid in 
sideways, chocolate in one hand,  body thoroughly used up, totally worn  out 
and screaming "WOO HOO what a  ride!"
 

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Re: KR> Engine mounth

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

Whether to stress relieve the mount or not is another discussion.  But you certainly won't hurt it by stress relieving.

 

To answer your question, stress relieving 4130 should be done at 600 - 675°C for approximately one hour per inch of base material thickness.  Since you are using thin wall 4130 tubing, just bringing it to temperature, then allowing it to cool slowly (No quenching) should suffice.  If I was treating this in one of my vacuum furnesses before I retired, I would give it 1 hr @ 625°C to ensure thorough heat saturation, then allow it to cool in the furnace.  If it is being done in an air furnace, 30 minutes at 625°C should be sufficient, then remove and allow to cool in still air.

 

When I rebuilt the engine mount for my SuperCub, I found that all the heating and cooling of torch welding was causing significant distortion of the mount to where it didn't fit very well.  I bolted it into place and did a stress relieve with a torch while it was bolted in place.  Once cooled, it fit perfectly.  Had I have had a TIG to do the welding, it is unlikely it would have caused so much distortion, so the stress relief would have been unnecessary.

 

-Jeff Scott

 

 

Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2019 at 4:25 AM
From: "Leif G Alstadsæter via KRnet" 
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: "Leif G Alstadsæter" 
Subject: KR> Engine mounth

Hi
I just get welding my Engine mounth with 4130 tube. The company who doing the welding recomended all 4130 to heated after welding to take away «power» from the welding.
I go to a company who can do the heating, but they have to know What temp they have to use.
Have somebody in the group some knowlege about this problem, I love to have this info.

Regard
Leif
Norway

Få Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
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Re: KR> Engine mount welding

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Here's a pretty good article regarding 4130 steel welding:

https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/best-practices-for-tig-welding-of-4130-chrome-moly-tubing-in-general-motorsports-and-aerospace-applications

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
ML "at" N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com



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Re: KR> Engine mounth

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Leif,

When welding 4130, post heating (often done with an oxy-acetylene torch
applied to the weld regions) is not a concern if the material is less
than 1/8" (3 mm) thick. This certainly applies to engine mounts.  I
would put it on the plane and go flying without the post-heating.I
can dig up the specification if you need it, but I doubt that you will. 


20 years ago, I attended a Sportair Workshop on welding 4130, taught by
the guy who wrote one of the first specs for that, and he said we'd
never need to post-heat, as long as we didn't weld anything outside in
the cold with the wind blowing.  The goal is to let the weld cool
slowly, which is the way it usually works inside a weld shop.  I've
never bothered with it, and have welded several components from 4130. 
I've never post-heated, and have seen no cracks so far.

Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
ML "at" N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com

>  Original Message 
> Subject: KR> Engine mounth
> From: Leif_G_Alstadsæter_via_KRnet 
> Date: Thu, January 17, 2019 4:25 am
> To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
> Cc: Leif_G_Alstadsæter 
> 
> 
> Hi
> I just get welding my Engine mounth with 4130 tube. The company who doing the 
> welding recomended all 4130 to heated after welding to take away «power» from 
> the welding.
> I go to a company who can do the heating, but they have to know What temp 
> they have to use.
> Have somebody in the group some knowlege about this problem, I love to have 
> this info.
> 
> Regard
> Leif
> Norway
> 
> Få Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
> ___
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KR> Engine mounth

[Leif G Alstadsæter via KRnet]

Hi
I just get welding my Engine mounth with 4130 tube. The company who doing the 
welding recomended all 4130 to heated after welding to take away «power» from 
the welding.
I go to a company who can do the heating, but they have to know What temp they 
have to use.
Have somebody in the group some knowlege about this problem, I love to have 
this info.

Regard
Leif
Norway

Få Outlook for iOS
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Re: KR> Engine mount

[CHRIS GARDNER via KRnet]

Leif,Pressure relief holes are not needed in your engine mount unless you plan 
on having it “normalized” after welding to relieve stresses.I wanted to do that 
after TIG welding but forgot to vent each tube beforehand.The temperatures used 
to normalize or stress relieve the mount would cause them to burst if not 
vented.Anyway no issues with cracks in spite of omitting that process.Your 
decision.CheersChris Gardiner


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad


On Monday, January 14, 2019, 2:33 PM, Leif G Alstadsæter via KRnet 
 wrote:

Hi
I just welding my new mounth. What Know many drill a hole in the tube, for 
pressure on high altitude.
I need some advice.. is this nessessary

Regard
Leif
Norway




Få Outlook for iOS
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Re: KR> Engine mounth

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

There is no need for pressure relief holes in the engine mount. You may want holes in the closed cells of the spars for pressure relief at altitude, but that should be the only place you might need them on a KR.

 


Det er ikke behov for trykkavlastningshull i motormonteringen. Du vil kanskje ha hull i de lukkede cellene av sperrene for trykkavlastning i høyden, men det bør være det eneste stedet du trenger dem på en KR.

-Jeff Scott


-Jeff Scott

 
 

Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:33 PM
From: "Leif G Alstadsæter via KRnet" 
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: "Leif G Alstadsæter" 
Subject: KR> Engine mounth
Hi
I just welding my new mounth. What Know many drill a hole in the tube, for pressure on high altitude.
I need some advice.. is this nessessary

Regard
Leif
Norway




Få Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

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Re: KR> Engine mounth

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

There is no need for pressure relief holes in the engine mount.  You may want 
holes in the closed cells of the spars for pressure relief at altitude, but 
that should be the only place you might need them on a KR.

-Jeff Scott

 
 

Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 at 1:33 PM
From: "Leif G Alstadsæter via KRnet" 
To: "krnet@list.krnet.org" 
Cc: "Leif G Alstadsæter" 
Subject: KR> Engine mounth
Hi
I just welding my new mounth. What Know many drill a hole in the tube, for 
pressure on high altitude.
I need some advice.. is this nessessary

Regard
Leif
Norway




Få Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

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KR> Engine mounth

[Leif G Alstadsæter via KRnet]

Hi
I just welding my new mounth. What Know many drill a hole in the tube, for 
pressure on high altitude.
I need some advice.. is this nessessary

Regard
Leif
Norway




Få Outlook for iOS
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Re: KR> Engine mount offset

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Leif,

Most people just build the mount with no compensation for engine torque. 
 There are so many other factors that something else is likely to 
cancel it out, and if not, that's what trim tabs are used for.  You 
could always stack washers or other spacers under the appropriate mount 
corners to compensate for some really pronounced issue, but I doubt that 
you'll identify such an issue that can be traced directly back to the 
engine mount.


Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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Re: KR> Engine Rebuild

[Luis Claudio via KRnet]

 Thanks Oscar.for reminding me of his old website. I am now neck deep in this 
engine. Cheers
Luis 

On ‎Wednesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎6‎, ‎2018‎ ‎11‎:‎08‎:‎08‎ ‎AM‎ ‎CDT, Oscar Zuniga 
via KRnet  wrote:  
 
 Before he was a Vairhead, Mark Langford was a VW specialist.  There is PLENTY 
of VW rebuild info on his website at n56ml.com, most recently the overhaul of 
the VW engine in N891JF, the KR that Mark bought from Jim Faughn.  Excellent 
info, particularly the study of various cylinder heads and CHT control.


Oscar Zuniga

Medford, OR
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KR> Engine Rebuild

[Oscar Zuniga via KRnet]

Before he was a Vairhead, Mark Langford was a VW specialist.  There is PLENTY 
of VW rebuild info on his website at n56ml.com, most recently the overhaul of 
the VW engine in N891JF, the KR that Mark bought from Jim Faughn.  Excellent 
info, particularly the study of various cylinder heads and CHT control.


Oscar Zuniga

Medford, OR
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Re: KR> Engine Rebuild

[Luis Claudio via KRnet]

 Mike I will revisit Marks page on his rebuilt. I saw it a while back but I am 
so close that its time for a refresher course... again thanks

On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎5‎, ‎2018‎ ‎01‎:‎07‎:‎24‎ ‎PM‎ ‎CDT, Luis Claudio via 
KRnet  wrote:  
 
  Thanks Mike. I will research the swivels on the rocker arms cause mine are 
the originals and are sockets but not swivels. 
Luis

    On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎5‎, ‎2018‎ ‎12‎:‎51‎:‎50‎ ‎PM‎ ‎CDT, Mike Stirewalt 
via KRnet  wrote:  
 
 > Luis,
 
> YouTube can also be a great resource on rebuilding a VW. . . . 



Luis, don't overlook Mark Langford's Corvair rebuild website (just Google
it).  It's a masterpiece.  The Corvair may not be a Revmaster but
exactly the same procedures will apply.  

Also, don't forget to use swivels on your rocker arms.  Just that one
little thing will make a world of difference over time.

Mike
KSEE


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Re: KR> Engine Rebuild

[Luis Claudio via KRnet]

 Thanks Mike. I will research the swivels on the rocker arms cause mine are the 
originals and are sockets but not swivels. 
Luis

On ‎Tuesday‎, ‎June‎ ‎5‎, ‎2018‎ ‎12‎:‎51‎:‎50‎ ‎PM‎ ‎CDT, Mike Stirewalt 
via KRnet  wrote:  
 
 > Luis,
 
> YouTube can also be a great resource on rebuilding a VW. . . . 



Luis, don't overlook Mark Langford's Corvair rebuild website (just Google
it).  It's a masterpiece.  The Corvair may not be a Revmaster but
exactly the same procedures will apply.  

Also, don't forget to use swivels on your rocker arms.  Just that one
little thing will make a world of difference over time.

Mike
KSEE


Good Morning America Confirms Unfortunate News
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KR> Engine Rebuild

[Mike Stirewalt via KRnet]

> Luis,
 
> YouTube can also be a great resource on rebuilding a VW. . . . 



Luis, don't overlook Mark Langford's Corvair rebuild website (just Google
it).  It's a masterpiece.   The Corvair may not be a Revmaster but
exactly the same procedures will apply.  

Also, don't forget to use swivels on your rocker arms.  Just that one
little thing will make a world of difference over time.

Mike
KSEE


Good Morning America Confirms Unfortunate News
greatsuperstars.world
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5b16cd682335e4d681ef3st03vuc

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KR> Engine lube

[Mike Stirewalt via KRnet]

Don't know why I referred to these engines as "Type 3."  Clearly I meant
to use a 1 instead of a 3.  Just more confusion.

Mike
KSEE


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Re: KR> Engine Run

[John Bouyea via KRnet]

Congrats Sid! Nothing like brushing the dust off to rekindle the passion of
having the privilege to be able to fly. Good on you!
John Bouyea
N5391M/ KR2
OR81/ Hillsboro, OR
2015 KR@MMV Gathering CoHost

-Original Message-
Subject: KR> Engine Run
For the first time in nearly two years I made an engine run and slow speed 
taxi on the 2180 VW
Sid Wood


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Re: KR> Engine Run

[Mike Sylvester via KRnet]

Sid, Sounds like you've got her ready to fly. Can't wait to see her at the 
Gathering. Congrats and fly safe.


Mike Sylvester
kr2s builder
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854



From: KRnet  on behalf of Sid Wood via KRnet 

Sent: Friday, May 25, 2018 7:59 PM
To: krnet@list.krnet.org
Cc: Sid Wood
Subject: KR> Engine Run

Got to get that pesky bi-anneal flight review done, then soon.
In the words of that first known aviator, Leonardo de Vince, "...for once
you have tasted flight, there you will always yearn to be."

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
California, MD, USA





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Messages by Thread KR> KR-2 Single Seat Conversion Sid Wood via KRnet. Re: KR> 
KR-2 Single Seat Conversion Adam via KRnet; KR> Fwd: Re: KR-2 Single Seat 
Conversion Ppaulvsk via KRnet



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KR> Engine Run

[Sid Wood via KRnet]

For the first time in nearly two years I made an engine run and slow speed 
taxi on the 2180 VW.  I had hand-turned the prop for 30 revolutions once a 
month to keep the parts lubricated.  The purpose was to check, for oil leaks 
after changing oil (SAE-30 automotive), check the newly moved master 
cylinder right brake action, and get the feel for the single place cockpit. 
The engine fired up with about a second or so of cranking.  Static WOT was 
3130 RPM with a Ed Sterba 52 x 52 wood prop.  OAT was 87 degrees F.  Idle 
was 830 RPM; I sat for a minute or so before shutting down, just listening 
to the music of the VW.

Got to get that pesky bi-anneal flight review done, then soon.
In the words of that first known aviator, Leonardo de Vince, "...for once 
you have tasted flight, there you will always yearn to be."


Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
California, MD, USA





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Re: KR> Engine Rebuild Completed

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

 

Joe,
 
Glad to have you back among the flying again.

FWIW, JB Weld can be used to successfully fill small voids that create a leak, 
but cracks in the block are usually caused by stresses to the block.  JB Weld 
isn't going to keep the crack from working and spreading, so, at best, is a 
temporary patch.  
 
-Jeff Scott
Cherokee Village, AR

-

Subject: Re: KR> Engine Rebuild Completed
I had my case welded inside and out when it was first discovered back in about 
'08. It lasted for a couple years, but eventually mirrored back through the 
welded area. I did the JB weld inside and out over and over with very short 
lived success'. I actually sent a case with Roy (3100 cc needs machine work) 
back in '11 and he had it ready for me in Spring of '12. I did not get out to 
pick it up until spring of '16 and started planning the rebuild at that time. 
It took the oil pressure drop to put my head in the game and geterr done...
So the short answer would be if you are lucky enough to get a crack in your 
block, just tackle it right away. It really is not going to majiclly heal it's 
self.
Joe Horton
N357CJ ... building hours again
 

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Re: KR> Engine Rebuild Completed

[n357cj via KRnet]

I had my case welded inside and out when it was first discovered  back in about 
'08. It lasted for a couple years, but eventually mirrored back through the 
welded area. I did the JB weld inside and out over and over with very short 
lived success'. I actually sent a case with Roy (3100 cc needs machine work) 
back in '11 and he had it ready for me in Spring of '12. I did not get out to 
pick it up until spring of '16 and started planning the rebuild at that time. 
It took the oil pressure drop to put my head in the game and geterr done...
   So the short answer would be if you are lucky enough to get  a crack in your 
block, just tackle it right away. It really is not going to majiclly heal it's 
self.
Joe Horton
N357CJ ... building hours again

- Original Message -
From: "KRnet" 
To: "KRnet" 
Cc: laser...@juno.com
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2017 2:55:00 PM
Subject: KR> Engine Rebuild Completed

Won't JB Weld seal a small crack in a case?

I haven't had to do it - haven't had any cracks - but JB seems to work
for everything that involves minor metal fixes?

  


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KR> Engine Rebuild Completed

[Mike Stirewalt via KRnet]

Won't JB Weld seal a small crack in a case?

I haven't had to do it - haven't had any cracks - but JB seems to work
for everything that involves minor metal fixes?

  


The Unusual Link Between Alzheimer's and Coconut Oil (Watch)
Memory Repair Protocol
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Re: KR> engine rebuild completed (finally)

[Kayak via KRnet]

that was a great read, thank you!

On Sun, Nov 26, 2017 at 7:52 PM, n357cj via KRnet  wrote:
> Hey Guys,
>Back near the end of May I decided to pull the engine for an overhaul for 
> a couple reasons. F

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Re: KR> engine rebuild completed (finally)

[Jeff York via KRnet]

I dont get on here and reply very often. But, this was great reading.

I miss the group and have not attended a gathering since 2011.  I still
have my KR2 but life, children and my business has caused my KR to sit.
Actually looking at buying a Cessna 182 or Piper 180 but thats because
business demands and a new office in Columbus give me reason to.

But, this is not about me. Its about a great story that I just read about
the trials of an engine rebuild and the power and motivation that article
inspires.

Congrats on the engine. Fantastic writing

Jeff York
KR-2
Georgetown/Scott County Airport
2010 Gathering Best KR2 Best Interior Best Instrument panel
2011 Airfest Best Experimental, Best Interior, Best Instrument panel,
Peoples Choice

On Nov 26, 2017 8:20 PM, "Ken Hurley via KRnet" 
wrote:

> Congrats to your success. You know Sept 18 is just around the corner. MVN
> is gonna be fun.
>
> On Nov 26, 2017 6:53 PM, "n357cj via KRnet"  wrote:
>
> > Hey Guys,
> >Back near the end of May I decided to pull the engine for an overhaul
> > for a couple reasons. For more years than I can remember I have had a oil
> > leak which I knew was from a crack in the block. While this may sound
> very
> > on safe it never became a structural issue but only caused me a large
> > amount of cleaning and adding a quart every10 to 12 hours of operation.
> > This past winter it became apparent that the leaking was increasing to
> the
> > point that it became a real irritant. The thing that made the deciding
> > factor was during a afternoon flight I noticed a drop in oil pressure
> while
> > nearly a hour from home. I never lost pressure but the lowered pressure
> was
> > a another cause for concern. I always felt that an accident is a build up
> > of 3 mistakes and I had 2 already.
> >I had a block preped by Roy a few years ago and I had a store pile of
> > parts so I figured a several week turn around and be right back at it.
> > Well,  that didn't work out so well. Through a number of comedy of errors
> > (not really funny) and 4 separate tear downs and test runs and even a
> > couple test flights, I finally have everything running great again. The
> > first big deal was I knocked the block off the work bench  when it was
> > short block assembled. From there i convinced myself that it had
> distorted
> > the block and it was trashed. MArk Lankford came to the rescue by sending
> > me his 3100cc block. I built that all the way up and mounted it to the
> > plane. I knew that it was very tight build. It proved to be to tight with
> > high oil temps and scorching a bearing that was tight. So back off the
> > plane and tear down again. I tore the high volume oil pump apart again
> and
> > looked the gears over again. There was no sign of wear at all but using a
> > magnifying glass I noticed that there were some circular scores just
> above
> > the drive gear. The drive gear is a pressure fit to the shaft. It appears
> > that the gear when up to temps became loose on the shaft and would slip
> > some. I replaced the drive gear and hoped I had this resolved.
> >Over this period of time I re-evaluated the case that I had dropped
> > from the work bench. Other than a dent in one corner of the casting I
> could
> > not find any misalignment or damage at all. I re-installed 2 different
> > cranks and cams to torque and found that the cranks run perfectly true
> and
> > free. So I took everything back off Mark's case and started to rebuild
> mine
> > again. At least Mark's is all cleaned, painted and ready for him to start
> > his rebuild.
> >I built this one up again and mounted it to the plane again. This time
> > it seemed to go together OK. A couple more weeks  altogether and mounted
> it
> > back up to the plane again. It started up OK and timing was checked.
> > Something bothering me...It didn't sound quit the same. I did a test
> flight
> > of about 20 minutes around the pattern and it still bothered me. I had
> one
> > head temp that was a bit high. But worse yet I had oil all over things
> > again... That just isn't going to due again. I cleaned the engine all up
> > again and put the dye in the oil that ultraviolet light shows. I ran the
> > engine on the ground up to temps for about 15 or 20 minutes.
> >My son and I pulled the engine again, took it home back on the bench
> > and search out the oil leaks with a black light in the dark. To my
> surprise
> > none of the leaking was coming from where I thought it was. I only had
> one
> > O ring on one push rod tube that was leaking a bit. All the rest was
> coming
> > from the edges of the top cover. Well at least it was an easy fix for
> that
> > part. The noise that was troubling me was the next thing. I just had an
> > uneasy feeling about the valve adjustments. When I pulled the cover on
> the
> > right side I found the middle rockers loose on the push rods. I had miss
> > adjusted a least one set somehow (inept or incompetent come to mind) I
> did
> > n

Re: KR> engine rebuild completed (finally)

[Ken Hurley via KRnet]

Congrats to your success. You know Sept 18 is just around the corner. MVN
is gonna be fun.

On Nov 26, 2017 6:53 PM, "n357cj via KRnet"  wrote:

> Hey Guys,
>Back near the end of May I decided to pull the engine for an overhaul
> for a couple reasons. For more years than I can remember I have had a oil
> leak which I knew was from a crack in the block. While this may sound very
> on safe it never became a structural issue but only caused me a large
> amount of cleaning and adding a quart every10 to 12 hours of operation.
> This past winter it became apparent that the leaking was increasing to the
> point that it became a real irritant. The thing that made the deciding
> factor was during a afternoon flight I noticed a drop in oil pressure while
> nearly a hour from home. I never lost pressure but the lowered pressure was
> a another cause for concern. I always felt that an accident is a build up
> of 3 mistakes and I had 2 already.
>I had a block preped by Roy a few years ago and I had a store pile of
> parts so I figured a several week turn around and be right back at it.
> Well,  that didn't work out so well. Through a number of comedy of errors
> (not really funny) and 4 separate tear downs and test runs and even a
> couple test flights, I finally have everything running great again. The
> first big deal was I knocked the block off the work bench  when it was
> short block assembled. From there i convinced myself that it had distorted
> the block and it was trashed. MArk Lankford came to the rescue by sending
> me his 3100cc block. I built that all the way up and mounted it to the
> plane. I knew that it was very tight build. It proved to be to tight with
> high oil temps and scorching a bearing that was tight. So back off the
> plane and tear down again. I tore the high volume oil pump apart again and
> looked the gears over again. There was no sign of wear at all but using a
> magnifying glass I noticed that there were some circular scores just above
> the drive gear. The drive gear is a pressure fit to the shaft. It appears
> that the gear when up to temps became loose on the shaft and would slip
> some. I replaced the drive gear and hoped I had this resolved.
>Over this period of time I re-evaluated the case that I had dropped
> from the work bench. Other than a dent in one corner of the casting I could
> not find any misalignment or damage at all. I re-installed 2 different
> cranks and cams to torque and found that the cranks run perfectly true and
> free. So I took everything back off Mark's case and started to rebuild mine
> again. At least Mark's is all cleaned, painted and ready for him to start
> his rebuild.
>I built this one up again and mounted it to the plane again. This time
> it seemed to go together OK. A couple more weeks  altogether and mounted it
> back up to the plane again. It started up OK and timing was checked.
> Something bothering me...It didn't sound quit the same. I did a test flight
> of about 20 minutes around the pattern and it still bothered me. I had one
> head temp that was a bit high. But worse yet I had oil all over things
> again... That just isn't going to due again. I cleaned the engine all up
> again and put the dye in the oil that ultraviolet light shows. I ran the
> engine on the ground up to temps for about 15 or 20 minutes.
>My son and I pulled the engine again, took it home back on the bench
> and search out the oil leaks with a black light in the dark. To my surprise
> none of the leaking was coming from where I thought it was. I only had one
> O ring on one push rod tube that was leaking a bit. All the rest was coming
> from the edges of the top cover. Well at least it was an easy fix for that
> part. The noise that was troubling me was the next thing. I just had an
> uneasy feeling about the valve adjustments. When I pulled the cover on the
> right side I found the middle rockers loose on the push rods. I had miss
> adjusted a least one set somehow (inept or incompetent come to mind) I did
> not even bother checking any others. I pulled both heads off, push rod
> tubes pulled out the lifters. I took each lifter apart in order and drained
> them and replaced them in order. Reassembled the right and then the left
> sides with all new O rings again. I carefully adjusted the lifters in order
> and repeated to verify.
>The oil with the dye was left in the oil pan just in case I discovered
> leaking again when it was back on the plane. The engine went back on again
> yesterday. Everything went well which made the process feel better. Nothing
> seemed to be nagging me this time. I finaled everything out this morning
> and with my son at the throttle we checked the timing again. The engine
> fired right up with just a couple cranks and ran very smooth. Nothing
> bothering me this time... sounds great and seemed like it had great power.
> After a few minutes of running and warmed up there was no obvious oil leaks
> either.
>I got every

KR> engine rebuild completed (finally)

[n357cj via KRnet]

Hey Guys,
   Back near the end of May I decided to pull the engine for an overhaul for a 
couple reasons. For more years than I can remember I have had a oil leak which 
I knew was from a crack in the block. While this may sound very on safe it 
never became a structural issue but only caused me a large amount of cleaning 
and adding a quart every10 to 12 hours of operation. This past winter it became 
apparent that the leaking was increasing to the point that it became a real 
irritant. The thing that made the deciding factor was during a afternoon flight 
I noticed a drop in oil pressure while nearly a hour from home. I never lost 
pressure but the lowered pressure was a another cause for concern. I always 
felt that an accident is a build up of 3 mistakes and I had 2 already.
   I had a block preped by Roy a few years ago and I had a store pile of parts 
so I figured a several week turn around and be right back at it. Well,  that 
didn't work out so well. Through a number of comedy of errors (not really 
funny) and 4 separate tear downs and test runs and even a couple test flights, 
I finally have everything running great again. The first big deal was I knocked 
the block off the work bench  when it was short block assembled. From there i 
convinced myself that it had distorted the block and it was trashed. MArk 
Lankford came to the rescue by sending me his 3100cc block. I built that all 
the way up and mounted it to the plane. I knew that it was very tight build. It 
proved to be to tight with high oil temps and scorching a bearing that was 
tight. So back off the plane and tear down again. I tore the high volume oil 
pump apart again and looked the gears over again. There was no sign of wear at 
all but using a magnifying glass I noticed that there were some circular scores 
just above the drive gear. The drive gear is a pressure fit to the shaft. It 
appears that the gear when up to temps became loose on the shaft and would slip 
some. I replaced the drive gear and hoped I had this resolved.
   Over this period of time I re-evaluated the case that I had dropped from the 
work bench. Other than a dent in one corner of the casting I could not find any 
misalignment or damage at all. I re-installed 2 different cranks and cams to 
torque and found that the cranks run perfectly true and free. So I took 
everything back off Mark's case and started to rebuild mine again. At least 
Mark's is all cleaned, painted and ready for him to start his rebuild.
   I built this one up again and mounted it to the plane again. This time it 
seemed to go together OK. A couple more weeks  altogether and mounted it back 
up to the plane again. It started up OK and timing was checked. Something 
bothering me...It didn't sound quit the same. I did a test flight of about 20 
minutes around the pattern and it still bothered me. I had one head temp that 
was a bit high. But worse yet I had oil all over things again... That just 
isn't going to due again. I cleaned the engine all up again and put the dye in 
the oil that ultraviolet light shows. I ran the engine on the ground up to 
temps for about 15 or 20 minutes. 
   My son and I pulled the engine again, took it home back on the bench and 
search out the oil leaks with a black light in the dark. To my surprise none of 
the leaking was coming from where I thought it was. I only had one O ring on 
one push rod tube that was leaking a bit. All the rest was coming from the 
edges of the top cover. Well at least it was an easy fix for that part. The 
noise that was troubling me was the next thing. I just had an uneasy feeling 
about the valve adjustments. When I pulled the cover on the right side I found 
the middle rockers loose on the push rods. I had miss adjusted a least one set 
somehow (inept or incompetent come to mind) I did not even bother checking any 
others. I pulled both heads off, push rod tubes pulled out the lifters. I took 
each lifter apart in order and drained them and replaced them in order. 
Reassembled the right and then the left sides with all new O rings again. I 
carefully adjusted the lifters in order and repeated to verify. 
   The oil with the dye was left in the oil pan just in case I discovered 
leaking again when it was back on the plane. The engine went back on again 
yesterday. Everything went well which made the process feel better. Nothing 
seemed to be nagging me this time. I finaled everything out this morning and 
with my son at the throttle we checked the timing again. The engine fired right 
up with just a couple cranks and ran very smooth. Nothing bothering me this 
time... sounds great and seemed like it had great power. After a few minutes of 
running and warmed up there was no obvious oil leaks either. 
   I got everything all cleaned and back under cowl. Started her up again and 
did a bit of taxi. Really acting great now and very good power. I decided that 
the only way to really find out was to fly. The take off was good with all 
tem

Re: KR> Engine mount material used

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Hendrik van Rooyen wrote:

> Do you use chrome molly or normal lightweight steel for your mount?

4130 steel, which is a chrome moly steel.  All the details are at
http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/mount_fit.html , including diameter and
wall thickness.

Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
ML "at" N56ML.com
www.N56ML.com



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KR> Engine mount material used

[Hendrik van Rooyen via KRnet]

Hi everyone,

For those of you using a cradle type engine mount i.e Mark Langford' original 
project:

Do you use chrome molly or normal lightweight steel for your mount?

Kind regards,

Henni
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KR> Engine Mount for sale

[Samuel Ajayi via KRnet]

Hi All,
I have a KR-2 Revmaster engine mount for sale. Make me an offer. I am located 
in Jacksonville, AR.

Thanks for your time

--
Sent from myMail for Android
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Re: KR> engine start

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

Thanks Mark
No rebuilds , they are engines I picked up with my Ohio projects .
I don't know the history on them but will give them a good look over before 
doing anything with them.
l appreciate your details about oil etc.
I am certainly looking forward to the gathering. 
Bob R
- Original Message -
From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
To: KRnet 
Cc: Mark Langford 
Sent: Thu, 15 Jun 2017 14:05:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: KR> engine start

Bob Russell wrote:

> I am wanting to start some vw conversions that I have and was
wondering if anyone has been able to start them without a prop on.
> I could put one on but since we are having quite a bit of rain, I
> was
thinking of doing it in my hangar.
> It seems to me that it should run as there is a flywheel( and I will
put a fan in front to cool).

I've gotten in the habit of setting the timing without the prop on my 
VW. There's a lot less drama, and the timing is far easier to nail down 
perfectly when there's not a 100 mph wind blowing everything around. 
This probably doesn't work if you have a vacuum advance though, which 
you shouldn't.  And obviously, don't run it for more than a couple of 
minutes.  It won't heat up too much in two minutes.

I have a lightened flywheel on the back also, so running it for a few 
minutes without a prop doesn't concern me.  The risk is that if you 
start it, you'd better make sure it's not going to hit 6000 rpm 
instantly...definitely start with throttle barely cracked, because 
there's no load on it at all.

Another thing I've learned with mine is that priming it with oil is not 
easy, if it's a fresh rebuild.  I've learned to lube the oil pump gears 
with thicker grease that improves the seal between gears and housing, 
put a little extra oil in it, and leave it sitting with the tail up in 
the air overnight to make sure the oil is available to the pump.  Then I 
backfill with more oil through the oil pressure sensor hole (near the 
distributor) to fill that oil passage up, and hopefully put more oil 
into the pump.  Then I fill that NPT hole with a mechanical oil temp 
gauge and spin the engine over with the starter with all plugs removed 
and spark plugs removed but still connected to plug wires, and grounded 
(laid across the cylinders as a ground), so I can check spark at the 
same time).

Contrast this with the Corvair, where you simply fill the engine with 
oil, use the distributor drive gear to spin the pump up for a few 
seconds until you hear oil splashing all around the engine, reinstall 
the distributor, and fire it up!

Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com

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Re: KR> engine start

[Mark Langford via KRnet]

Bob Russell wrote:


I am wanting to start some vw conversions that I have and was

wondering if anyone has been able to start them without a prop on.

I could put one on but since we are having quite a bit of rain, I
was

thinking of doing it in my hangar.

It seems to me that it should run as there is a flywheel( and I will

put a fan in front to cool).

I've gotten in the habit of setting the timing without the prop on my 
VW. There's a lot less drama, and the timing is far easier to nail down 
perfectly when there's not a 100 mph wind blowing everything around. 
This probably doesn't work if you have a vacuum advance though, which 
you shouldn't.  And obviously, don't run it for more than a couple of 
minutes.  It won't heat up too much in two minutes.


I have a lightened flywheel on the back also, so running it for a few 
minutes without a prop doesn't concern me.  The risk is that if you 
start it, you'd better make sure it's not going to hit 6000 rpm 
instantly...definitely start with throttle barely cracked, because 
there's no load on it at all.


Another thing I've learned with mine is that priming it with oil is not 
easy, if it's a fresh rebuild.  I've learned to lube the oil pump gears 
with thicker grease that improves the seal between gears and housing, 
put a little extra oil in it, and leave it sitting with the tail up in 
the air overnight to make sure the oil is available to the pump.  Then I 
backfill with more oil through the oil pressure sensor hole (near the 
distributor) to fill that oil passage up, and hopefully put more oil 
into the pump.  Then I fill that NPT hole with a mechanical oil temp 
gauge and spin the engine over with the starter with all plugs removed 
and spark plugs removed but still connected to plug wires, and grounded 
(laid across the cylinders as a ground), so I can check spark at the 
same time).


Contrast this with the Corvair, where you simply fill the engine with 
oil, use the distributor drive gear to spin the pump up for a few 
seconds until you hear oil splashing all around the engine, reinstall 
the distributor, and fire it up!


Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
http://www.n56ml.com

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KR> engine start

[Robert Russell via KRnet]

I am wanting to start some vw conversions that I have and was wondering if 
anyone has been able to start them without a prop on. 
I could put one on but since we are having quite a bit of rain, I was thinking 
of doing it in my hangar. 
It seems to me that it should run as there is a flywheel( and I will put a fan 
in front to cool). 
Interested in your comments. 
Thanks 
Bob R 
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Re: KR> engine

[bjoenunley via KRnet]

I was referring to pattern speeds of course.

>100 mph !!!  Pleeaasseeeyou're >hurting me...

>Larry Flesner

Joe Nunley Baker Florida 


null
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Re: KR> engine

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

At 07:29 PM 5/15/2017, you wrote:
You won't be able to tell if the baffling is scratched at 100 mph 
with the cowling on.

+


100 mph !!!  Pleeaasseeeyou're hurting me...

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> engine

[bjoenunley via KRnet]

You won't be able to tell if the baffling is scratched at 100 mph with the 
cowling on.
I just want to fly.
>Now I'm wishing I'd painted my old >worn out baffling.  The 
>engine makes them look a bit ratty.  
Joe Nunley Baker Florida 


null
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KR> engine

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

I got a lot done over the weekend on my engine.  One baffle part left 
off caused me about a 4 hour setback ( a story with brew at the 
Gathering) but I'm on the home stretch.  Three or four hours of minor 
details, install and time the mags and it should be ready to run.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/nls0t983of15apc/IMG_9053.JPG?dl=0

Now I'm wishing I'd painted my old worn out baffling.  The 
engine  makes them look a bit ratty.  They were original and modified 
from a 1966 C150.  No turning back now.  I'm ready to fly...


Larry Flesner


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KR> engine part?

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

Things are crawling along on my engine rebuild as I can't get 
suppliers to respond to my communications.  March 1 is still my goal 
date to fly.


I did find one gear that needs replacing and that is the generator / 
alternator drive gear.  The gear that drives it is in good 
shape.  The gear is part of a drive assembly.  I only need the gear 
or I would purchase the entire assembly if anyone has an extra 
junking up the work bench.


The gear, part # 531325 is common to Continental C90 through 0-300.

Do not respond to the net but to "  fles...@frontier.com "

Larry Flesner


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KR> engine progress

[Oscar Zuniga via KRnet]

Larry: nice choice of colors for your engine.  Seems like we think alike.  
Here's how my A75 overhaul turned out after Jeff Scott's hands and wrenches 
were all over it:


http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/engine/Pictur118.jpg


Firewall forward:

http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/engine/A75final001.jpg


Oscar Zuniga

Medford, OR
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Re: KR> engine progress

[Paul Visk via KRnet]

The way it's going Larry you'll be in contention for the firewall foward trophy 
in Lee Summit. 


Paul Visk Belleville Il.
618-406-4705
 Original message From: Larry Flesner via KRnet 
 Date: 1/29/17  2:59 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
krnet@list.krnet.org Cc: Larry Flesner  Subject: KR> 
engine progress 



I've spent the last several days cleaning and painting engine 
parts.  Progress, one piece at a time. I hope to be flying by March 1 
or I'll be out of money. :-(

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/20170129_110232.jpg

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> engine progress

[Joe. E. Wallace via KRnet]

Larry

You are going to have to fly that without a cowl just see all the pretty….. 
NICE JOB…jw

> On Jan 29, 2017, at 14:59, Larry Flesner via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 


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KR> engine progress

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

I've spent the last several days cleaning and painting engine 
parts.  Progress, one piece at a time. I hope to be flying by March 1 
or I'll be out of money. :-(


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/20170129_110232.jpg

Larry Flesner


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KR> engine update

[Oscar Zuniga via KRnet]

Larry; it's always refreshing to read an engine success story.  Most of them 
seem to read like mystery movies or horror stories when cases are cracked and 
the insides are exposed, especially when the engines are older and have passed 
through several sets of hands since being taken off of a certified aircraft.  
Yours sounds like what every cared-for engine should be... just a no-surprises, 
relaxed, by-the-book overhaul.


I enjoyed renting and flying a 182 back when I was in Texas and flying on 
business trips.  The airplane belonged to a group of A&Ps who made their living 
wrenching on radial-engined cargo planes, mostly military surplus and post-war 
Curtis C46s, DC-3s, Convair 240s that smuggled appliances and electronics into 
Mexico at night in the 70s.  That 182 was very plain and basic but it could 
carry anything you could fit into it and it was one stout airplane.  When I 
first saw the logs, I saw that the Continental O-470-R engine was well past 
TBO, maybe 2500 hrs on an engine that had a 1500-1700 hr TBO by the book, but 
the owners maintained it and they never felt the need to overhaul it just 
because of what the tach time showed.  The reason is because of what you've 
found with your engine.


By the way, flying that 182 with normally-aspirated O-470 in cruise one fine 
summer afternoon in warm and humid south Texas, I experienced carb ice in 
flight for the first time in anything other than a J-3.  When the sputtering 
started, I thought I should grab a pencil and notepad and start writing my last 
will and testament real quick, but then on second thought I figured I should do 
something useful like switch tanks, flip on the fuel boost pump, check the oil 
pressure, and... and... since nothing else worked, maybe pull carb heat?  
Ye-!!  That smoothed out the engine!  Beautiful clear skies, I was between 
summer cumulus puffies up at maybe 5500-6500 trimmed in level cruise and maybe 
65-70% power, and carb ice was forming.  I don't know what carb those engines 
have, maybe a Marvel-Schebler MA-4, but whatever the case- it can happen, and 
happen quite suddenly.


Oscar Zuniga

Medford, OR
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KR> engine update

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

I found time today to remove the rods from the crank and do an 
amateur measurement of the crank with a digital micrometer.  Crank is 
standard and right at "new spec's with zero abrasion or wear on any 
of the bearing locations.  I'm guessing this crank could have gone 
another 2400 hours without a problem, with proper maintenance and 
care of course.  Anyway, now I know.  I'll have it checked for "out 
of round", flange runout, and dye tested for cracks and if it  passes 
I can start the assembly process.


Film at 11:00...

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> engine update

[Joe. E. Wallace via KRnet]

Larry, was our teachers on “pick it up, or else”   sisters   jw

> On Jan 17, 2017, at 07:11, Larry Flesner via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> At 12:02 AM 1/17/2017, you wrote:
>> I do not see an

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Re: KR> engine update

[Jeff Scott via KRnet]

 
 Clearly you took good notes when you visited my shop!  -Jeff Scott

---
Cc: "Oscar Zuniga" 
Subject: KR> engine update
Larry: I see your problem immediately. Your hangar is too clean for you to get 
any serious work done. I do not see *any* tools on the floor, *no* old gasket 
scraps, dripped oil, pieces of snipped safety wire, errant washers, used and 
bent cotter pins, or any other evidence of actual progress on your engine 
removal and overhaul. I do not see any masking tape with handwritten labels on 
any wires or cables on the firewall, no yellow note-pad with items to remember 
to take care of in reverse order when re-assembling, so it's obvious that 
you'll never get everything put back in the proper place even if you get the 
engine overhauled in the first place. Which is questionable, since the short 
block is not sitting on an old blanket, some old sofa pillows, or a worn-out 
6.00x6 tire. These things are necessary for a proper engine rebuild, so you 
might want to get busy and get your hangar in order.


You need to take a serious look at getting your hangar disorganized so you can 
make measurable progress. And PS, a light coating of spilled Aeroshell 50 with 
about 20 hours on it will help cut the glare from the overhead lights off that 
clean floor. Just sayin'.


Oscar Zuniga

Medford, OR

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Re: KR> engine update

[Paul Visk via KRnet]

Oscar wrote: At 12:02 AM 1/17/2017, you wrote:>I do not see any masking tape 
with handwritten labels on any wires 
>or cables on the firewall, no yellow note-pad with items to remember 
>to take care of in reverse order when re-assembling,---

My daughter in law's father how is a A&P inspector at Delta took me on a 
personal tour of the maintenance complex in Atlanta. It was amazing at there 
engine overhaul stations. They had shadow boards for every part of an engine in 
the order it was removed with part numbers for quick reference.  It was very 
organized. 
Paul Visk Belleville Il.
618-406-4705
 Original message From: Larry Flesner via KRnet 
 Date: 1/17/17  7:11 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: KRnet 
 Cc: Larry Flesner  Subject: Re: 
KR> engine update 
At 12:02 AM 1/17/2017, you wrote:
>I do not see any masking tape with handwritten labels on any wires 
>or cables on the firewall, no yellow note-pad with items to remember 
>to take care of in reverse order when re-assembling,
+

You've got a point, Oscar.  I'm not concerned about the wires and 
hoses, they're pretty obvious, but  there were several items I made 
"mental" notes about reverse order on install and which bolts had 
tabs attached for securing cables, etc. and the "mental" notes are a 
bit hard to read this morning.  Maybe another cup of coffee and a 
sweet roll will remove some of the blurriness...

As for the hangar, I'm lucky to be in the FBO heated and well lit 
hangar and the cleanliness is just a matter of picking up after 
myself.  After 49 years of marriage some training is hard to ignore. :-)

Larry Flesner


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Re: KR> engine update

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

At 12:02 AM 1/17/2017, you wrote:
I do not see any masking tape with handwritten labels on any wires 
or cables on the firewall, no yellow note-pad with items to remember 
to take care of in reverse order when re-assembling,

+

You've got a point, Oscar.  I'm not concerned about the wires and 
hoses, they're pretty obvious, but  there were several items I made 
"mental" notes about reverse order on install and which bolts had 
tabs attached for securing cables, etc. and the "mental" notes are a 
bit hard to read this morning.  Maybe another cup of coffee and a 
sweet roll will remove some of the blurriness...


As for the hangar, I'm lucky to be in the FBO heated and well lit 
hangar and the cleanliness is just a matter of picking up after 
myself.  After 49 years of marriage some training is hard to ignore. :-)


Larry Flesner


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KR> engine update

[Oscar Zuniga via KRnet]

Larry: I see your problem immediately.  Your hangar is too clean for you to get 
any serious work done.  I do not see *any* tools on the floor, *no* old gasket 
scraps, dripped oil, pieces of snipped safety wire, errant washers, used and 
bent cotter pins, or any other evidence of actual progress on your engine 
removal and overhaul.  I do not see any masking tape with handwritten labels on 
any wires or cables on the firewall, no yellow note-pad with items to remember 
to take care of in reverse order when re-assembling, so it's obvious that 
you'll never get everything put back in the proper place even if you get the 
engine overhauled in the first place.  Which is questionable, since the short 
block is not sitting on an old blanket, some old sofa pillows, or a worn-out 
6.00x6 tire.  These things are necessary for a proper engine rebuild, so you 
might want to get busy and get your hangar in order.


You need to take a serious look at getting your hangar disorganized so you can 
make measurable progress.  And PS, a light coating of spilled Aeroshell 50 with 
about 20 hours on it will help cut the glare from the overhead lights off that 
clean floor.  Just sayin'.


Oscar Zuniga

Medford, OR
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Re: KR> engine update

[Bill Jacobs via KRnet]

Larry,
Great progress!Regards, Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl. 

  

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KR> engine update

[Larry Flesner via KRnet]

I can't believe the progress I made this weekend in about 8 hours of 
time.  The only help I had was to drive out the piston pins and lift 
the case off the mount.  I hope to split the case in the next few days.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8995.JPG

Larry Flesner


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KR> Engine cowlings

[Stef den Boer via KRnet]

Hi everyone. Happy new year from the Netherlands. For everybody a lot of save
flights. We hope this year it will be ours
Today I broke the engine cowlings from the plug. We are very happy with the
result. Before we remove all the foam on the inside  we have to microballoon
both And send it smooth.
I have to make a plan what kind off attach part we will use. I think along the
horizontal cut we can use a piano hinge. Vertical to the fire-wall I think we
can use also a hinge. But do someone have a picture how to do it? And also the
lower horizontal, I can install there also 4 inch.
The upper engine cowling I think we have to use quickfasteners?

All ideas or pics are welcom.
Stef

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KR> Need KR engine mount for Revmaster 2100D

[Luis Claudio]

 Finally?purchased a used Revmaster 2100D for my KR2 project.?Anyone out there 
with an engine mount for sale that will fit this engine please?send me 
a?private email with price and availability. I am in the Dallas, Texas area.
Thanks
Luis?R Claudio?

KR> engine mount

[Jeff Scott]

?4130 is a descriptor of the materials in the steel alloy.  41xx steel is a 
family of SAE steel grades, as specified by the Society of Automotive Engineers 
(SAE). Alloying elements include chromium and molybdenum, and as a result these 
materials are often informally referred to as chromoly steel.  The 30 in 4130 
refers to 30% carbon in the steel.  It is lighter and stronger than the 
standard 1020 mild steel you'll find at the lumber yard.

Your local steel supplier may know it better as chrome-moly steel.  If he 
doesn't recognize that, then as Randy says, find another supplier.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM
?

---
Cc:?"Dean Choitz" 
Subject:?KR> engine mount
hate to look to stupid but our local iron supplier has never heard of 4130 
iron/steel need to order some material to make a longer mount for cg. question 
cg 4 inches from leading edge to 14 from leading edge is that what most 
builders are shooting for thanks dean choitz

KR> engine mount

[Randy Smith]

Find another supplier. ? 

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 3:24 PM, Dean Choitz via KRnet  wrote:


 hate to look to stupid but our local iron supplier has never heard of 4130 
iron/steel need to order some material to make a longer mount for cg. question 
cg 4 inches from leading edge to 14 from leading edge is that what most 
builders are shooting for thanks dean choitz
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KR> engine mount

[Dean Choitz]

hate to look to stupid but our local iron supplier has never heard of 4130 
iron/steel need to order some material to make a longer mount for cg. question 
cg 4 inches from leading edge to 14 from leading edge is that what most 
builders are shooting for thanks dean choitz

KR> engine mount

[Rob Schmitt]

Dean,

I highly recommend Airparts in Kansas City area for 4130. I get all my tubing  
for my Wittman Tailwind Project from them. Great source for bolts/nuts and 
aluminum as well.

Www.airpartsinc.com

Rob Schmitt


> On Dec 7, 2016, at 6:19 PM, Jim Chuk via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a KR - 1 that I am going to part out this spring.  It has a VW
> engine on it. Not damaged or anything, just neglected for the most part.
> Not all rusted though either.  I wont be able to get back to it till mid
> March though.  As far as the chrome moly tubing goes, Aircraft Spruce and
> Wicks Aircraft are suppliers besides others.  There is some Chinese steel
> floating around,  I wouldn't trust it myself, especially on something like
> a motor mount.  Jim Chuk
> 
> On Wed, Dec 7, 2016 at 5:01 PM, Randy Smith via KRnet  list.krnet.org>
> wrote:
> 
>> Find another supplier.
>> 
>>On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 3:24 PM, Dean Choitz via KRnet <
>> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> hate to look to stupid but our local iron supplier has never heard of
>> 4130 iron/steel need to order some material to make a longer mount for cg.
>> question cg 4 inches from leading edge to 14 from leading edge is that what
>> most builders are shooting for thanks dean choitz
>> ___
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>> 
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KR> engine mount

[Jim Chuk]

I have a KR - 1 that I am going to part out this spring.  It has a VW
engine on it. Not damaged or anything, just neglected for the most part.
Not all rusted though either.  I wont be able to get back to it till mid
March though.  As far as the chrome moly tubing goes, Aircraft Spruce and
Wicks Aircraft are suppliers besides others.  There is some Chinese steel
floating around,  I wouldn't trust it myself, especially on something like
a motor mount.  Jim Chuk

On Wed, Dec 7, 2016 at 5:01 PM, Randy Smith via KRnet 
wrote:

> Find another supplier.
>
> On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 3:24 PM, Dean Choitz via KRnet <
> krnet at list.krnet.org> wrote:
>
>
>  hate to look to stupid but our local iron supplier has never heard of
> 4130 iron/steel need to order some material to make a longer mount for cg.
> question cg 4 inches from leading edge to 14 from leading edge is that what
> most builders are shooting for thanks dean choitz
> ___
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>
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KR> engine mount material

[Dean Choitz]

using a volkswaken what material do most people use 5/8 .040? -3/4 .049 4130?? 
7265 when building engine mount plans say 5/8 .040 never see what material is 
used? thanks dean choitz

KR> Engine RPM Guage

[Kenneth Jones]

I don?t think I?d put the sense wire where it might be possible to arc to it as 
it might damage the tach.  If I recall, I covered the open shield area on the 
plug wire with heavy aluminum foil to complete the shield path.

Kenneth Jones

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 11:33 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> ?I had good luck with the Tiny Tach after opening up the shielding on a plug 
> wire ?enough to wrap the sense wire around the ?plug wire, Ken Jones 
> Can I wrap the tiny tach wire around a spark plug with the same results?  I 
> have stainless steel mesh shielding around my wires and would prefer to fund 
> another way to attach the tiny tach than cut my wire shielding.
> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
> ___
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KR> Engine RPM Guage

[bjoenunley]

?I had good luck with the Tiny Tach after opening up the shielding on a plug 
wire??enough to wrap the sense wire around the ?plug wire, Ken Jones?
Can I wrap the tiny tach wire around a spark plug with the same results? ?I 
have stainless steel mesh shielding around my wires and would prefer to fund 
another way to attach the tiny tach than cut my wire shielding.
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> Engine RPM Guage

[Chris Kinnaman]

Great Plains' website has instructions for installing the Tiny Tach 
sensing wire inside the distributor cap of the mag without cutting the 
plug wire shielding. There is also a good tutorial on the Fly Baby 
website about installing the sensing wire on a plug lead by cutting the 
shielding and re-wrapping with copper tape.

Chris K.

Can I wrap the tiny tach wire around a spark plug with the same results? 
  I have stainless steel mesh shielding around my wires and would prefer 
to fund another way to attach the tiny tach than cut my wire shielding. 
Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
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KR> Engine RPM Guage

[Kenneth Jones]

Joe,

Rob is correct about the shielding but I had good luck with the Tiny Tach after 
opening up the shielding on a plug wire enough to wrap the sense wire around 
the plug wire, underneath the shielding.  This was on a KR2 with an A65.  It 
was still functioning after 500+ hours and about 5 years without any 
maintenance or problems.  I know others have had other experiences.

Kenneth Jones
KHAO
N5834 KR2 Sold
N905SX Sonex 1/2 Sold
N93SX Glasair II FT Flying - 3.3 hours after repairs and gear conversion

> On Oct 30, 2016, at 10:38 PM, Robert7721 via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> I tried a "tiny tach" and could never get it to work with my magneto set up. 
> It really did not want to pick up the signal though the shielded wires. If 
> you peal back the shielding you might have a chance if that is your set up. I 
> ended up putting on a Westach gage which worked fine. 
> 
> PN 10-03925 at aircraft spruce
> 
> Rob Schmitt
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Oct 30, 2016, at 6:35 PM, Tucker Brown via KRnet > list.krnet.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Joe,
>> 
>> I don't have any experience with these parts either, however I must ask a
>> few questions that would hopefully help someone who knows more.
>> 
>> I would expect the impulse signal to be something you would not read on a
>> DC or AC setting on a DMM (multi-meter) but could be read on other types
>> of meters/scopes.  What did you use?
>> 
>> Do you have a manufacturer and part number for these components?
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Tucker
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> My engine rpm guage is not indicating.  I have an aircraft rpm guage with
>>> an impulse generator providing signal from the engine.  The impulse
>>> generator has 2 wires, red and black. The instrument has 3 wires red black
>>> and green. Attaching the wiring seems simple. 
>>> With the engine running, I put a meter on the wires from the impulse
>>> generator and it reads zero.  
>>> The impulse generator came with the engine, I have no history for the
>>> impulse generator.  I see no comparable items on aircraft spruce. 
>>> I welcome any suggestions?  
>>> Im a little frustrated and almost ready to fly, can I run a tiny tach
>>> gadget with satisfactory results?
>>> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
>>> ___
>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
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KR> Engine RPM Guage

[Robert7721]

Joe,

I tried a "tiny tach" and could never get it to work with my magneto set up. It 
really did not want to pick up the signal though the shielded wires. If you 
peal back the shielding you might have a chance if that is your set up. I ended 
up putting on a Westach gage which worked fine. 

PN 10-03925 at aircraft spruce

Rob Schmitt



Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 30, 2016, at 6:35 PM, Tucker Brown via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Joe,
> 
> I don't have any experience with these parts either, however I must ask a
> few questions that would hopefully help someone who knows more.
> 
> I would expect the impulse signal to be something you would not read on a
> DC or AC setting on a DMM (multi-meter) but could be read on other types
> of meters/scopes.  What did you use?
> 
> Do you have a manufacturer and part number for these components?
> 
> Regards,
> Tucker
> 
> 
>> 
>> 
>> My engine rpm guage is not indicating.  I have an aircraft rpm guage with
>> an impulse generator providing signal from the engine.  The impulse
>> generator has 2 wires, red and black. The instrument has 3 wires red black
>> and green. Attaching the wiring seems simple. 
>> With the engine running, I put a meter on the wires from the impulse
>> generator and it reads zero.  
>> The impulse generator came with the engine, I have no history for the
>> impulse generator.  I see no comparable items on aircraft spruce. 
>> I welcome any suggestions?  
>> Im a little frustrated and almost ready to fly, can I run a tiny tach
>> gadget with satisfactory results?
>> Joe Nunley CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor Baker Florida 
>> ___
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> 
> 
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KR> Engine RPM Guage

[Tucker Brown]

Hi Joe,

I don't have any experience with these parts either, however I must ask a
few questions that would hopefully help someone who knows more.

I would expect the impulse signal to be something you would not read on a
DC or AC setting on a DMM (multi-meter) but could be read on other types
of meters/scopes.  What did you use?

Do you have a manufacturer and part number for these components?

Regards,
Tucker


>
>
> My engine rpm guage is not indicating. ??I have an aircraft rpm guage with
> an impulse generator providing signal from the engine. ??The impulse
> generator has 2 wires, red and black. The instrument has 3 wires red black
> and green. Attaching the wiring seems simple.??
> With the engine running, I put a meter on the wires from the impulse
> generator and it reads zero. ??
> The impulse generator came with the engine, I have no history for the
> impulse generator. ??I see no comparable items on aircraft spruce.??
> I welcome any suggestions? ??
> Im a little frustrated and almost ready to fly, can I run a tiny tach
> gadget with satisfactory results?
> Joe Nunley??CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor??Baker Florida??
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
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KR> Engine RPM Guage

[bjoenunley]

My engine rpm guage is not indicating. ?I have an aircraft rpm guage with an 
impulse generator providing signal from the engine. ?The impulse generator has 
2 wires, red and black. The instrument has 3 wires red black and green. 
Attaching the wiring seems simple.?
With the engine running, I put a meter on the wires from the impulse generator 
and it reads zero. ?
The impulse generator came with the engine, I have no history for the impulse 
generator. ?I see no comparable items on aircraft spruce.?
I welcome any suggestions? ?
Im a little frustrated and almost ready to fly, can I run a tiny tach gadget 
with satisfactory results?
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> Engine mount for Rev Master 2100D

[Parley T Byington]

luis;

Please private e-mail my your e-mail address and I will send you pictures of 
the mount I have to see if it will work for you.

I live in Henderson Nevada and my mount was built for a 1835 VW.  I have the 
pictures with measurements so you can check if it will do the trick for your 
2100.

Sincerely
Parley Byington
N54PB KR-2
byington1954 at embarqmail.com



>  lookingfor an engine mount for my KR2 with a Rev Master 2100d engine. I live 
> in the Dallas area.
> Thanks
> Luis 
> ___
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KR> Engine mount for Rev Master 2100D

[Mike Arnold]

Luis, does the revmaster use an accessory case. I have a jig to make engine
mounts.
On Oct 1, 2016 12:35 PM, "Luis Claudio via KRnet" 
wrote:

>  lookingfor an engine mount for my KR2 with a Rev Master 2100d engine. I
> live in the Dallas area.
> Thanks
> Luis
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
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KR> Engine mount for Rev Master 2100D

[Luis Claudio]

?lookingfor an engine mount for my KR2 with a Rev Master 2100d engine. I live 
in the Dallas area.
Thanks
Luis 

KR> engine mount

[Larry Flesner]

At 07:58 AM 7/19/2016, you wrote:
>I left out the angle entirely.  I don't think you need it (and I've
>proven it) if you attach the engine mount near the longerons...where the
>load path is
Mark Langford
++

I did not use the angle either, just a crush plate on each side of 
the firewall, and I've got an 0-200 hanging on a HAPI mount which is 
not mounted close to the longerons.

Larry Flesner 

KR> Engine offset

[Stef den Boer]

Every body thanks for the responce, I will go for straight.
Thanks.
Stef

> Op 16 juli 2016 om 14:36 schreef Larry Flesner via KRnet
> :
> 
> 
> At 09:43 PM 7/15/2016, you wrote:
> >I fretted over this, but set it up for straight ahead, just in case 
> >I changed to an O-200 later.
> 
> 
> I have zero engine offset and no rudder trim tab and it flies straight ahead.
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/101009206.jpg
> 
> Larry Flesner 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

KR> Engine offset

[Roger]

That means you built the fuse crooked. The right direction:)
Roger
> 
> I have zero engine offset and no rudder trim tab and it flies straight 

KR> Engine offset

[Larry Flesner]

At 09:43 PM 7/15/2016, you wrote:
>I fretted over this, but set it up for straight ahead, just in case 
>I changed to an O-200 later.


I have zero engine offset and no rudder trim tab and it flies straight ahead.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/101009206.jpg

Larry Flesner