[lace] Lace hankies, pulling a thread
I have read several references to pulling a thread and am not quite sure if you mean to remove that thread to allow you to fold there, sew there or what. ? Reading the sentance below makes me think maybe it is the cutting mark to get the right finished size of hanky and can trim along that line once the sewing is complete, Am I on the right track or far off, ? With only one piece sewn in class and not enough experience and practise I would like to learn the best way to make as good a job as I can. (. This makes a vast difference when you stitch the lace on, as a) it is much easier to pull a thread to get the the proper square to work on and b) your stitches will pull the fabric for more easily opening up holes as you sew the lace on. ) Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] hanky fabric
Yes, I agree with you Leonard. I found out the hard way that one of my favourite linens was 44 count on one side and 55 count the other. It didn't become obvious until I was half way along the second side with the pin stitching. It could have been worse. In subsequent hankies I was able to compensate by counting over 4 threads on the 44 side, and 5 stitches on the 55 side. It works out just nicely on that particular fabric, which is a Belgian 3 1/2 oz linen. Best wishes, Joanne Ph: 02 4975 5201 e-mail: joa...@joscolace.com.au website: www.joscolace.com.au - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] lace on hankies
Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk Liz, This one had me wondering about thread sizes and choice of hanky material. If you were working lace of any kind in say cordonet 100 or something similar on one and then chose to work bucks point which would be probably something like the broder machine 50, would they both still look reasonable on the same fabric, or one a bit heavy and one very delicate on too heavy cotton? As you can see, even 2 hours short of sleep again, you have my brain working away, g Sue T Hello Spiders, Janice wrote that she made the lace very slightly larger than the actual hankie and eased the fabric along the sides and corners to make the lace fit. This reminded me of the first Bucks hankie edging that I made. I originally had planned to make a sample, but I was enjoying it so much that I decided to continue it into a square. I was so pleased with it that I wanted to enter it into the County Craft show, so I began to mount the lace on to an oversize piece of fine cotton fabric. That's when I discovered that three sides had 12 heads and the fourth side had 13!! I had lots of 'fun' stretching three sides and easing the fourth one on to the carefully pulled thread square. Funnily enough the judge didn't notice that there were too many repeats in one edge. She only saw my straight start which I did because it was only going to be a sample. Since that day I've never been worried what judges think of my work. I know my faults and always say, I'll do it better next time. Liz Pass In Poole, UK After a beautiful spring day - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: lace on hankies
I am definately going to have to try this method for one of them now:-) Also I assume that a washed and pressed hanky and a gently steamed piece of lace will make them sit better ongoing too, as discussed for the napkin strips last year. Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk Brenda Paternoster paternos...@appleshack.com wrote: but if you are attaching BL or any other pre-made lace to the edge of a hankie you should always make the fabric fit the lace and not try to make the lace fit the fabric. ie attach lace to oversize fabric and then make some sort of hem. Brenda makes a good point, for those making a lace square and planning on getting fabric to fit it. However, if you make straight lace and gather the corners (the only way (I've bothered to make hankies), pre-made handkerchiefs are nice. You make the lace, attach it, and you're done. You don't have to then cut the fabric and hem it (something I find tedious). Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA robinl...@socal.rr.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Lace hankies, pulling a thread
On 16 Mar 2009, at 08:52, Sue wrote: I have read several references to pulling a thread and am not quite sure if you mean to remove that thread to allow you to fold there, sew there or what. ? I suspect that for a handkie you'd want to do drawn thread embroidery, not pulled thread. Here are a few websites that show the differences between them and how to do either. http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/pulled-thread- embroidery.html http://www.florin.ms/puntoantico.html http://www.needlenthread.com/2009/02/excellent-drawn-thread- embroidery-book.html http://www.willowfabrics.com/drawn_thread.shtm Hope this helps. Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada Visit the Seaspray Guild of Lacemakers web site: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/quinbot - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Washing hankeys
Dear Arachnids I always try to remember to include instructions on how to wash lace when teaching someone their first edging. Some years after starting this one of my students, by then she was teaching herself, admitted to putting her first hankey in the washing machine. As it was the first and not perfect, she was not too worried. However, it survived it came out as if it had been handwashed and has been regularly in the machine for several years. While I would not recommend using a wahing machine for hand-made lace I think we worry too much about the effects of hand washing. The most important rules are 1 Do not stretch or drag the lace. 2 Be careful which washing agent you use. Most will destroy cotton, linen and silk within 20 years or so. 3 Lift out of the water usung some sort of support, e.g. a piece of old white sheeting - again this is so there is no stretching. 4 Press carefull, making sure the point of the iron does not catch in the lace and drag or tear it. Use your lace. It was always made to be worn and white thread lace should stand up to washing. Best wishes Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Washing hankeys and napkins
Many thanks Alex for lovely clear instructions. I have now used and washed my napkins about 3 times and they press up well. The first time is always the worst, but with the help of Brenda and Jacquie I washed, pressed and steamed the right bits before they were sewn together and have been very happy with the result. Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk Dear Arachnids I always try to remember to include instructions on how to wash lace when teaching someone their first edging. Some years after starting this one of my students, by then she was teaching herself, admitted to putting her first hankey in the washing machine. As it was the first and not perfect, she was Use your lace. It was always made to be worn and white thread lace should stand up to washing. Best wishes Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Hankie Edgings
Hi Sue and Spiders All, The principal of pulling threads is the same, be it a thicker woollen fabric, or a very fine cambric - you (very) carefully pull one thread along one side, then tack the lace to that pulled edge. You then pull threads on each side in turn, and tack the lace down, one side at a time. When all are tacked down to your satisfaction, you can then use the three- or four-point stitch to attach the lace.Or - if you really want to horrify purists and the Lace Police, you can use a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine!I do NOT advocate this, unless one's hand-sewing leaves a lot to be desired. As I have said previously, I think it is better to have a machine to stitch the lace to the fabric if that is neater and looks better than a cobbled-together hankie where it has all puckered when the lace isn't attached very well. (I can remember seeing a hankie photograph in 'Lace' magazine, where it was not done well at all, and it really detracted from the lace itself, as well as looking awful ...) Of course, the machine sewing needs a deal of practicing before actually doing it, so it is better to practice with a piece of common-or-garden bought lace, and a piece of fabric, than to jump straight in and use the sewing machine without any previous experience... But - once again, it is best to do whatever suits you, and looks good! Each to his/her own. All best wishes, Carol - Original Message - From: Sue hurwitz...@supanet.com the only things I have pulled threads on are wool fabric for a shawl fring and obviously not the same. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: lace on hankies
I bought some men's hankies in the men's wears department of our local John Lewis. they are 40cm square and have a self coloured stripe on the edges but I wanted one for the centre of a table mat I'd just completed.this worked brilliantly and the self stripe didn't interfere with the pattern at all.They cost £10 for 7 hankies. Celia . in a very sunny (and warm) SE London. Sue wrote: Reading all and I checked out the internet (good old google) and found a packet of pure white mens for an excellent price and no colour, so now I am really excited and will sort that out today. Our two mens wear shops have gone and I was thinking of one retailer where I might find them, this brought the market to my door:-) Thanks everyone, I can now leave you in peace again. Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk That's fine for tatting or crochet where you attach the lace as it's made but if you are attaching BL or any other pre-made lace to the edge of a hankie you should always make the fabric fit the lace and not try to make the lace fit the fabric. ie attach lace to oversize fabric and then make some sort of hem. If you have an edging with corners what are the chances that a readymade square of fabric will be exactly the right size without easing/stretching the lace? Brenda If you want some nice hankies all ready to attach lace try hhtatting.com Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Hemming hankies
I've been following the discussion about lace hankies with great interest since I'm working on a Bucks Point handkerchief edging among other projects. It was supposed to be for my daughter's wedding in 2007, but I am wondering what is the best way to hem handkerchiefs. It sounds like the lace would be sewn onto the fabric of an unfinished hanky and then the hanky would be hemmed by hand. How should that be done? --Ruth from sunny Dubuque,Iowa USA where it feels (falsely) like spring is here rrl...@mchsi.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Washing hankeys
I have a couple of hankies with narrow beds lace edgings (beginner's pieces really - doing a whole hankie rather than a short sample gave me the necessary practice at leaf tallies) which I have always used and machine-washed - they don't come up quite as crisp as they originally were, but if ironed carefully when slightly damp they look fine. I always put hand-made lace into a net bag before putting it in the washer, to protect it from snags and getting pulled out of shape. The little ones that used to come with boxes of washing-powder in tablet form are a very convenient size for hankies! (Do washing tablets still come with net bags? I went back to using powder, and someone has thrown out most of my net bags...) Beth in Cheshire (NW England) where spring is definitely in the air Alex Stillwell wrote: While I would not recommend using a wahing machine for hand-made lace I think we worry too much about the effects of hand washing. The most important rules are 1 Do not stretch or drag the lace. 2 Be careful which washing agent you use. Most will destroy cotton, linen and silk within 20 years or so. 3 Lift out of the water usung some sort of support, e.g. a piece of old white sheeting - again this is so there is no stretching. 4 Press carefull, making sure the point of the iron does not catch in the lace and drag or tear it. Use your lace. It was always made to be worn and white thread lace should stand up to washing. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Hemming hankies
In message c5e3e108.9890%rrl...@mchsi.com, Randolph Lyon rrl...@mchsi.com writes I am wondering what is the best way to hem handkerchiefs. It sounds like the lace would be sewn onto the fabric of an unfinished hanky and then the hanky would be hemmed by hand. How should that be done? The answer to Ruth's question is what I have just this afternoon sent to Sue, as I think it might be the most appropriate method for her to attach her lace, too. There are several different methods of applying lace to fabric, and I believe at least one book has been written on the subject - also I think there is something in the back of one of the beginners' books - maybe one of Pam Nottingham's? Without going to look, I can't say, but this (quoted below) is one of the methods I have used. We also had to produce samples of the three and four sided punch stitches - great for finishing off the fabric with no chance of it fraying, but I found it difficult to get my tension right, especially going round a corner (we had to mount a rectangular insertion into fabric), - it would need a lot of practice! This is what I wrote to Sue:- Doing CG, we had to produce samples showing various methods of mounting onto fabric. One, which in this case may be the best, was to sew the lace onto the fabric first and then trim the fabric and sew the hem afterwards. Pulling a thread gives you a straight line to follow - so making sure your lace lines up, pull out the threads required to form a square - you then know that your finished fabric will be a straight square (though depending on the quality of the fabric, it may look more like a diamond! In this case, it needs dampening, pulling into shape and drying before you go any further) as we were taught in preparing fabric for dressmaking etc at school many years ago! Use the lines produced by the drawn threads to stitch the footside (sewing-edge) of the lace to the fabric - make sure both right sides face upwards. The hankie may not have any slubs (where new threads have been joined in) that would need to be on the back, so you may not have to worry about right and wrong of fabric - normally you would look at the selvage on cloth to see which side the ends ended up. Then, trim the fabric back to 1/2 inch (pulling a second row of threads out will help you get this straight) - giving enough to produce a 1/4 inch double hem. Working with wrong side up, fold the fabric along a line half way from the edge to the stitching attaching the lace, (the edge of the fabric should then lie along the original stitching line) then fold again along the original stitching line and sew the hem neatly using either a very fine running stitch or hem-stitch. You will need to mitre the corners, (do trim off the excess of the triangle) but these at least now should be 45 deg and much easier than when you do curtain hems with uneven sides! -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Victorian doll and clothes
Alex wrote: I had already had the beginnings of the idea but was thinking along the lines of dolls house size but the suggestion is moving me towards a larger possibly Victorian child doll with all her underwear dress etc. I now have to find a suitable doll, and more importantly patterns for authentic Victorian clothes for her. Please can anyone help! Have look at: http://www.elliesdolls.co.uk/ Apart from doll making (they both make them and run practical workshops to make your own. They also sell all sorts of things for doll making, including patterns - mentioned under accessories. They have a catalogue of the patterns , which you can get by emailing them. They're really nice people in Bournemouth (close to Poole) and gave a very interesting talk (and advice) at one of Poole Bobbin Lace Circle meetings. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
