[lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
With all due respect, I have to disagree, Francis, as not only is thread wound on a bobbin, but it has movement after that, whether in working stitches in bobbin lace, how people turn the bobbins as they work (even if a small amount, it accrues), and other "dangling," etc. Though I am not an expert in bobbin lace, I have worked with textiles, fwiw, for decades. Sewing thread for hand sewing twists just with simple running stitches, and is compliant and stronger, when allowed to "unfurl." (Often thread cut from the spool, and threaded with the last from the spool, handles better, going along with the twist, than threading a needle from the first cut end). Even when knitting lace or a plain sock, one must continually allow the yarn (or object), to unwind. Not done, this put bias on objects so they tend not to lay "on grain" which adds stress, but especially, as untwisting too much will weaken (not often a problem in hand knitting, rather over twisting is) the yarn and will break or wear soon. It isn't as obvious with thread, as it often has tighter twist but more importantly, it is happening on a more "micro" way than say yarn, (in a more obvious "macro" way.) As with a cake recipe, you provide the components, and scientific physics principles for something that will rise, have texture, etc., as desired, but this doesn't factor in the human component, which results in occasional failures. I believe the practical vs. theoretical applications apply here. If the thread was free, and not imposed upon by the bobbin, these characteristics and problems would be more obvious, and sooner, but thus tend to show up once the thread is in application, and sadly so. Perhaps there are spinners on this list that can supply more perspective. From what little spinning I have done, better helps me understand yarn and thread; the observations and conclusions I had come to long ago, but of which, keep evolving. Best,Susan Reishus "...now there was the sugestion of the way you put the spool of thred to wind in on your bobins that is blabla there are very few added on or taken of twists to it easy to calculate it you take the diameter of the spool and multiply by PI 3.14 and you have the outer diameter lets say 1cm * 3.14= 3.14cm per extra twist so if you needed 1 meter of thread on your bobin you have 100cm / 3.14 =31twist per meter extra if you work into fine threads like 70/2 Nec you are around 400 to 600 twists per meter that 31twists will be ignorant to the tbehavior of the thread and again the Z or S and the adding or takeingof will be minimal some will say now: but if you need 10 meters it will be 10 times that amount? not realy only the distance from the threadspool to the bobin counts and then again you will fearly end up on an even dispercion of the added or taken of twists..." Francis - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
I concur, Claire, and think you get the point. So many factors, as the thread has twist, then is wound on a bobbin (and gradually unwound with twists/knots on the bobbin head to hold in place), then dangles, may be turned via the hands working or uncontrolled rolling, then is worked (generally) from right to left and left to right, all of which seem like minute factors, but accumulate into these kinds of traumas/tragedies, ie: under twist, over twist, bias and breaks. If you had thread or yarn plied with one strand of another color (such as Licorice Twist from Henry's Attic, and many other products), it may be surprising what happens as one works. Fine threads are just not as obvious to the eye as thicker threads or yarns where it becomes more so, and even those observations evolve often from experience ... or perfectionism. So, the next question may be: if one has less affect upon threads when throwing bobbins (than hand exchange, or whatever term would apply), or more, and if it applies to the individual (who may inadvertently be twisting more than they realize)? Best,Susan Reishus Another thought to add to the mix. I wind my bobbins to ensure I am not adding or removing the thread's twist, but I still find it untwists as I work. Years ago it was suggested to me that I might be twisting my bobbins as I work my lace unintentionally. I now keep an eye on my threads and find from time to time I need to give my bobbins a twist the other way to put the twist back on the thread. Claire Kent,UK Claire Allen www.bonitocrafts.co.uk Crafty stuff I want to show off. On 8 Feb 2010, at 17:32, Susan Reishus wrote: > With all due respect, I have to disagree, Francis, as not only is thread wound > on a bobbin, but it has movement after that, whether in working stitches in > bobbin lace, how people turn the bobbins as they work (even if a small amount, > it accrues), and other "dangling," etc. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Another thought to add to the mix. I wind my bobbins to ensure I am not adding or removing the thread's twist, but I still find it untwists as I work. Years ago it was suggested to me that I might be twisting my bobbins as I work my lace unintentionally. I now keep an eye on my threads and find from time to time I need to give my bobbins a twist the other way to put the twist back on the thread. Claire Kent,UK Claire Allen www.bonitocrafts.co.uk Crafty stuff I want to show off. On 8 Feb 2010, at 17:32, Susan Reishus wrote: With all due respect, I have to disagree, Francis, as not only is thread wound on a bobbin, but it has movement after that, whether in working stitches in bobbin lace, how people turn the bobbins as they work (even if a small amount, it accrues), and other "dangling," etc. Though I am not an expert in bobbin lace, I have worked with textiles, fwiw, for decades. Sewing thread for hand sewing twists just with simple running stitches, and is compliant and stronger, when allowed to "unfurl." (Often thread cut from the spool, and threaded with the last from the spool, handles better, going along with the twist, than threading a needle from the first cut end). Even when knitting lace or a plain sock, one must continually allow the yarn (or object), to unwind. Not done, this put bias on objects so they tend not to lay "on grain" which adds stress, but especially, as untwisting too much will weaken (not often a problem in hand knitting, rather over twisting is) the yarn and will break or wear soon. It isn't as obvious with thread, as it often has tighter twist but more importantly, it is happening on a more "micro" way than say yarn, (in a more obvious "macro" way.) As with a cake recipe, you provide the components, and scientific physics principles for something that will rise, have texture, etc., as desired, but this doesn't factor in the human component, which results in occasional failures. I believe the practical vs. theoretical applications apply here. If the thread was free, and not imposed upon by the bobbin, these characteristics and problems would be more obvious, and sooner, but thus tend to show up once the thread is in application, and sadly so. Perhaps there are spinners on this list that can supply more perspective. From what little spinning I have done, better helps me understand yarn and thread; the observations and conclusions I had come to long ago, but of which, keep evolving. Best,Susan Reishus "...now there was the sugestion of the way you put the spool of thred to wind in on your bobins that is blabla there are very few added on or taken of twists to it easy to calculate it you take the diameter of the spool and multiply by PI 3.14 and you have the outer diameter lets say 1cm * 3.14= 3.14cm per extra twist so if you needed 1 meter of thread on your bobin you have 100cm / 3.14 =31twist per meter extra if you work into fine threads like 70/2 Nec you are around 400 to 600 twists per meter that 31twists will be ignorant to the tbehavior of the thread and again the Z or S and the adding or takeingof will be minimal some will say now: but if you need 10 meters it will be 10 times that amount? not realy only the distance from the threadspool to the bobin counts and then again you will fearly end up on an even dispercion of the added or taken of twists..." Francis - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
hallo Susan, yes and no is the answer on your answer i was probably not clear enough in this matter YES you are correct if you do talk about handknitting and hand sewing but i must realy say NO to the matter if we talk in terms of bobinlace please make a difference between those techniques first of all the knittng is mostly done whit thicker threads here we have to take in account oa other way of looking towards twists if you have a thick thread of say 1cm diameter (i take a virtual strong example) and you put a few twist per meter, you will fast have a deformation of the thread also by knitting by hand you have strangely the effect of acumulating twist between the hand and the skein/cone/ball or whatever this mostly applies for 1 ply threads this is a proces we do not have in machine knitting there again the twists do spread themselfs like i told for bobbinlace for sewing you have that same problem indeed and more even there is the same problem in handsewing as in machine sewing way is that? it all has to do whit tensioning the threads how much tension is put on the threads in the machine you have the thred which goes through all those differend thread guidance and ther is a lot of tnesion on the threads so it is more easy for the twists to accumulate adn not slipping over the guidance there for if you use not leveled sewingthreads but lets say knitting threads or weaving threads to sew you will have problems like snapping hreads on one pount or an other this due to the acumulation or decumulation of the twists the easyes way of having to deal whit it is rethreading the sewing machine each 10meters of used thread a real hassle but on option now on the handsewing you will have the same problem and mostly because the extratension/stress you put on the thread by pulling it through the tissue it seems to gluide for most people but in reality the thread if pulled on a quite strong tension and will do the same effect as accumulate or decumulate twist just before the ingoing of the tissue again this should only be haapenign whit nonlevveled threads if you use ballenced threads, they should not do it now the bobbin lace it is blabla, it realy is i lack the courage and words in written english to express myself fully but look towards it closly the movement after it is done by youself AFTERWARDS i did not go into depth of the S or Z twist and how yo put it on the bobbin tha tis on other story i only mentioned that the number of twists added on a bobbin is neglectable for the work peanuts you cal it i beleeve so if you put a spool in a way that you derool it by puting it horizontal towards the bobin so it unwinds as the threadcone unrolls aswell or if yo just rool the thread from the coen from its vertical possition and so "add or deminish" twists it is of no concequense again look to the thickness of threads you use in bobbinlace mostly fine to extreme fine from 300 to 1800 twists per meter in the extrafien threads adn if you do the math you will see that the number of added twists is "peanuts" even if you take very small threadcones were the diameter is 0.5cm it still is peanuts anf the problemof adding afterwards on the pillow has notthing to do whit the way you put it on the bobin (taken out of sight the S or Z way to put threads on the bobin, that is an other discusion) ask around to teachers they will tell you soem always have problems other never have if you work in those spangels you do not turn atall so the should not have that problem it only occurs whit us european bobins whom can turn around if manipulates to fast and to nonchalant i wil try to make some diagrams and try to put them on the internet to show you what i mean as useal english seems far more diffuclt to fully express my thoughs then it should be francis extremly happy that atleast the lovley Susan reacts to this please if you also have thuoghts on this matter . let them come Susan Reishus schreef: With all due respect, I have to disagree, Francis, as not only is thread wound on a bobbin, but it has movement after that, whether in working stitches in bobbin lace, how people turn the bobbins as they work (even if a small amount, it accrues), and other "dangling," etc. Though I am not an expert in bobbin lace, I have worked with textiles, fwiw, for decades. Sewing thread for hand sewing twists just with simple running stitches, and is compliant and stronger, when allowed to "unfurl." (Often thread cut from the spool, and threaded with the last from the spool, handles better, going along with the twist, than threading a needle from the first cut end). Even when knitting lace or a plain sock, one must continually allow the yarn (or object), to unwind. Not done, this put bias on objects so they tend not to lay "on grain" which adds stress, but especially, as untwisting too much will weaken (not often a problem in hand knitting, rather over twisting is) the yarn and will break or wear s
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
indeed claire it is you and not the thread it is mostly a chock to see that you are the cause of the cataclism and not the thread but the good part is that it means that you CAN overcome that problem because it is you and not the thread this put aside that there are real catastrophical threads on the market they exist to but then again you also have to addapt francis Claire Allen schreef: Another thought to add to the mix. I wind my bobbins to ensure I am not adding or removing the thread's twist, but I still find it untwists as I work. Years ago it was suggested to me that I might be twisting my bobbins as I work my lace unintentionally. I now keep an eye on my threads and find from time to time I need to give my bobbins a twist the other way to put the twist back on the thread. Claire Kent,UK Claire Allen www.bonitocrafts.co.uk Crafty stuff I want to show off. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Francis I have been following the emails regarding twisting and then breaking threads with a certain amount of interest. I have been lacemaking for more years than I care to admit and have been teaching bobbin lace for over 30 years.I have, on occasions had problems with threads untwisting and have tried to compensate by winding thread straight from spool to bobbin without twisting it, etc. etc. etc.Some of this has been to no avail on some of the bobbins on the pillow (but interestingly not all of them) and I have learnt, over the years, to watch the thread and if I have seen signs of it untwisting, then just correcting the problem by twisting the thread up again. I have, until now, always felt that this was a problem with some threads but not all of them. As a result of your last couple of emails I have been carefully checking how I make my lace.Lo and behold, I find that I sometimes twist the odd bobbin in my hand whilst working. It is interesting that it is not all the bobbins but only some of them which is why it is not all the threads that break!!!I do not do this everytime as it depends on which stitch I am using, but it does appear that I am twisting the bobbins clockways. I probably won't now be able or willing to find a way to change my technique, but now that I know exactly what I am looking for I may be able to reduce the number of times that I turn the bobbins.I have probably been aware of this fault for sometime but either chose not to accept it was my technique or quite happy to blame the thread manufacturers and compensate accordingly. I have submitted this explanation in the hope that someone finds it helpful. Maureen East Yorkshire UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Thank you, Maureen. I, too, find this happens with some but not all the bobbins and am curious to know why I lose the twist on about 5% of my bobbins but not the rest. This happens when I am working with Midland Bobbins, so I know that it is not that they are rolling on the pillow. I will try to take more careful note of how I am handling them. It happens more with point ground, and I currently have torchon on my pillow, so I may not be able to replicate the problem for a while Sue I find that I sometimes twist the odd bobbin in my hand whilst working. It is interesting that it is not all the bobbins but only some of them which is why it is not all the threads that break!!!I do not do this everytime as it depends on which stitch I am using, but it does appear that I am twisting the bobbins clockways. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Sue, my theory is that it happens to some threads and not others because of the way the threads travelthe "leading" bobbin of a pair travels diagonally all down a row of ground, making more "twist" movements than the other half of the pair as it does. If that thread then manoeuvres in such a way that it becomes another "leading" bobbin in another row, it could be making lots more "twist" movements than many of the other bobbins. This penny dropped with me when I had one very distinctive bobbin on the pillow - and I noticed that it spent a lot more time travelling in a certain way across the pillow than any other bobbineasy to see, because it was so distinctive. Ruth -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of Sue Babbs Sent: Friday, 12 February 2010 6:10 AM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread Thank you, Maureen. I, too, find this happens with some but not all the bobbins and am curious to know why I lose the twist on about 5% of my bobbins but not the rest. This happens when I am working with Midland Bobbins, so I know that it is not that they are rolling on the pillow. I will try to take more careful note of how I am handling them. It happens more with point ground, and I currently have torchon on my pillow, so I may not be able to replicate the problem for a while Sue - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Over the years we have been discussing, on and off, the fact that some bobbins seem to twist / untwist more than others. At present I am working a wide torchon edging in cashmere/silk mix, with the same thread and Swedish bobbins throughout. ON the left I have a half stitch fan for the headside, and on the right of the pattern is a variety of cloth stitch pairs and some ct pin ct areas. The bobbins in the half stitch area are losing their twist, and those on the right side with mostly ct pin ct are steadily gaining twist. Those in the middle (which probably travel in and out of the other areas) are more stable. I have never seen such pronounced differences as working in this lace-weight yarn. Sue sueba...@comcast.net -Original Message- - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Hi Sue: This happens all the time. If any thread is S-plied then when a bobbin rolls to the left the plies will untwist, and a bobbin rolling to the right will add twists. As you work, you roll the bobbins out of the way, then when you want them you pick them up to bring them back into the work, so the twists that untwisted or overtwisted are not restored as they would be if you rolled each bobbin the same amount in each direction. With an S-plied thread or yarn, the plies are untwisted on the left side of your pillow and overtwisted on the right side. Working with finer lace threads, which have more twists per inch than your yarn, this effect only becomes obvious once in a while. The untwisted threads start to look puffy, the overtwisted ones look thinner and of course when you pick up a bobbin the thread will twist back on itself as it tries to restore its balance. Now that you're using yarn, you're seeing the effect almost immediately because there are far fewer twists on the plied yarn than there are on normal lace thread, so just one or two rolls of the bobbin makes a big difference. So, what can you do about it? I'm afraid I don't have any clever tricks, and anything I suggest you're probably already doing. You can try to stop the bobbins from rolling but that's never worked for me. I would just try to restore the twists as I go along, by keeping an eye on how the thread on each bobbin looks and if necessary, rolling each bobbin in my hand when I pick it up. Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) On 2013-01-05, at 1:22 PM, Sue Babbs wrote: > Over the years we have been discussing, on and off, the fact that some > bobbins seem to twist / untwist more than others. > > At present I am working a wide torchon edging in cashmere/silk mix, with the > same thread and Swedish bobbins throughout. ON the left I have a half stitch > fan for the headside, and on the right of the pattern is a variety of cloth > stitch pairs and some ct pin ct areas. > > The bobbins in the half stitch area are losing their twist, and those on the > right side with mostly ct pin ct are steadily gaining twist. Those in the > middle (which probably travel in and out of the other areas) are more stable. > I have never seen such pronounced differences as working in this lace-weight > yarn. > > Sue - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
I am not particularly bothered by this, and know to twist or untwist the yarn on the bobbins as needed to stop the yarn splitting or becoming too fine. Yes, I know that it is working in thicker thread that makes it easier to observe. I was simply observing the phenomenon when a half stich area is introduced into the pattern and the way the thread then behaves. At some point, I might sample the effect of having the half stitch area on the right side to see if it still untwists. What I failed to tell you all, was that in the earlier strip I worked for this piece, using exactly the same thread and bobbins, but where there was not a half stitch fan, and the pattern was uniform across its width all the bobbins gradually tightened. It is only since introducing the half stitch area that the threads in that area are untwisting. Theo was incorrect in assuming that I wind the bobbins by wrapping the thread around them. This is not something I have done in years. Also I don't roll bobbins on the pillow. It was given a flannel cover by its previous owner, and they pretty much stay where I place them. I do not place my hand on them and roll them across the pillow. Sue sueba...@comcast.net - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread
Adele, and Sue! This is the most rational response to this question that I have seen!! It makes sense to me that we use our knowledge of the intrinsic qualities of our fibers to determine when and if we add one (or two? or three?) twists to a pattern to keep things balanced. I can even imagine having to add crosses... with an odd batch of fiber. Sue, please keep us posted on your results!! Clay On 1/5/2013 6:12 PM, Adele Shaak wrote: Hi Sue: This happens all the time. If any thread is S-plied then when a bobbin rolls to the left the plies will untwist, and a bobbin rolling to the right will add twists. As you work, you roll the bobbins out of the way, then when you want them you pick them up to bring them back into the work, so the twists that untwisted or overtwisted are not restored as they would be if you rolled each bobbin the same amount in each direction. With an S-plied thread or yarn, the plies are untwisted on the left side of your pillow and overtwisted on the right side. Working with finer lace threads, which have more twists per inch than your yarn, this effect only becomes obvious once in a while. The untwisted threads start to look puffy, the overtwisted ones look thinner and of course when you pick up a bobbin the thread will twist back on itself as it tries to restore its balance. Now that you're using yarn, you're seeing the effect almost immediately because there are far fewer twists on the plied yarn than there are on normal lace thread, so just one or two rolls of the bobbin makes a big difference. So, what can you do about it? I'm afraid I don't have any clever tricks, and anything I suggest you're probably already doing. You can try to stop the bobbins from rolling but that's never worked for me. I would just try to restore the twists as I go along, by keeping an eye on how the thread on each bobbin looks and if necessary, rolling each bobbin in my hand when I pick it up. Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) On 2013-01-05, at 1:22 PM, Sue Babbs wrote: Over the years we have been discussing, on and off, the fact that some bobbins seem to twist / untwist more than others. At present I am working a wide torchon edging in cashmere/silk mix, with the same thread and Swedish bobbins throughout. ON the left I have a half stitch fan for the headside, and on the right of the pattern is a variety of cloth stitch pairs and some ct pin ct areas. The bobbins in the half stitch area are losing their twist, and those on the right side with mostly ct pin ct are steadily gaining twist. Those in the middle (which probably travel in and out of the other areas) are more stable. I have never seen such pronounced differences as working in this lace-weight yarn. Sue - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread - and a purloined solution...
An "ah -HA" moment!! Ruth, I think you're on to something here!! I've been working Tonder, and occasionally one thread will "part with a sigh"... and it's almost always on the return from the footside, where it has been subjected to a long stretch of ground and the footside itself. I've never understood why this happens... (thank you for a theory!!) I simply drop in the fresh thread (long leader...) and carry on, mid-passives. I use a clip to put the parted end out of the way. My favorite clip, of course, if the one I "adopted" (about ten years ago?) after visiting a "tie-fly" shop for fishermen! (Can you tell what DH likes to do?) They have a tool called a "swivel hackle plier", and it has a lovely little spring-action clip at the end, embellished with a rubber (silicone?) band which grips the thread. There is a nice long handle - conveniently sized in length to match our bobbins - and so when a thread breaks, it's easy enough to just grab it with this Swivel Hackle and carry on until I reach an optimum opportunity to bring in the new bobbin. After I used my first Swivel Hackle, I had the notion that it would be very pleasing if the metal handle could be replaced with a bobbin. I gave Richard Worthen one of these hackles, and asked him to insert the working part into one of his turned bobbins that had (tragically!) broken at the neck during turning. He did this for me, and from that day forward, has probably sold hundreds of these delightful tools to lacemakers!! Now, I've noticed that Ken van Dierin has something similar listed on eBay, and he has had the audacity to include a "patent pending" notice with his version of the tool. Now, I like Ken. He's a nice man, a good lacemaker, and a very fair vendor (with this exception). But he did not invent this, (and neither did I), but I was the one who applied this use to this device. So I'm publicaly appealing to Ken to withdraw this patent application (if it exists), because in the Lace world, we share and share alike. I've never gotten a dime from Richard or Ken for their use of my "discovery", and that's fine with me. They are the producers of the pretty version, and they're welcome to provide the goods to lacemakers. But I don't want anyone to claim exclusive rights to something I discovered. They will no longer be my friend. Clay Clay Blackwell Lynchburg, VA, USA On 2/11/2010 4:05 PM, Ruth Budge wrote: Sue, my theory is that it happens to some threads and not others because of the way the threads travelthe "leading" bobbin of a pair travels diagonally all down a row of ground, making more "twist" movements than the other half of the pair as it does. If that thread then manoeuvres in such a way that it becomes another "leading" bobbin in another row, it could be making lots more "twist" movements than many of the other bobbins. This penny dropped with me when I had one very distinctive bobbin on the pillow - and I noticed that it spent a lot more time travelling in a certain way across the pillow than any other bobbineasy to see, because it was so distinctive. Ruth -Original Message----- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of Sue Babbs Sent: Friday, 12 February 2010 6:10 AM To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] Re: Breaking and Twist to Thread Thank you, Maureen. I, too, find this happens with some but not all the bobbins and am curious to know why I lose the twist on about 5% of my bobbins but not the rest. This happens when I am working with Midland Bobbins, so I know that it is not that they are rolling on the pillow. I will try to take more careful note of how I am handling them. It happens more with point ground, and I currently have torchon on my pillow, so I may not be able to replicate the problem for a while Sue - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
