from:"BOB"

Re: Legacy Ornamental 1000 Mill Instruction Manual

2024-05-30 Thread Bob Mark

Bill,I sent to your gmail address, see if it is there. Of course i can resend when i get back to my computer.Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn May 30, 2024, at 1:49 PM, Tim Ziegler wrote:Hey Bill I sent him your address. Kind Regards,Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & SpecialtyZiegler Laser Worx LLC14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cellOn Thu, May 30, 2024 at 3:39 PM <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:oops Ok try bulke...@mmnet.com.au I hit the wrong key on my email address sorry Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of rdgbo...@gmail.comSent: Friday, May 31, 2024 2:04 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: Legacy Ornamental 1000 Mill Instruction Manual Bill, not sure how to respond to you only. But, my email wouldn’t go through to this address. It said address not found. Any ideas? From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of bulke...@mmnet.com.auSent: Wednesday, May 29, 2024 11:22 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: Legacy Ornamental 1000 Mill Instruction Manual Hi my I have a copy too my email address is bulke...@mmnet.com.auRegards Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Bob MarkSent: Thursday, May 30, 2024 2:33 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Legacy Ornamental 1000 Mill Instruction Manual I have a manual circa 2006. If you send me an email address i will forward.. it is a out 300 mb.Sent from Bob Mark's iPad .-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/001c01dab2ab%2401635610%24042a0230%24%40gmail.com.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/001201dab2d1%247ffd59f0%247ff80dd0%24%40mmnet.com.au.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLFsfjuhG-L4f1-DD9Fxo1KS3QNwkkKFW8DAFioY3b_%3Dvw%40mail.gmail.com.

Re: Legacy Ornamental 1000 Mill Instruction Manual

2024-05-29 Thread Bob Mark

I have a manual circa 2006. If you send me an email address i will forward.. it is a out 300 mb.Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn May 29, 2024, at 9:09 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills  wrote:
Hey Chris. I sent a note out.  If all goes well you should have your manual very soon.C.A.G.





On Wednesday, May 29, 2024 at 11:49:08 PM EDT, Chris Liska  wrote:





I'm still just looking for a complete manual. someone said they were in the archive, but i can't find that. i've also searched the conversation history with no luck.On Tuesday, May 28, 2024 at 11:27:23 PM UTC-5 Curt George wrote:
Hello Chris.As a little side bar to this ...   I for one would rather show you how to use your equipment/Legacy to get the most out of your machine, then sell all the parts. Once gone its gone.   Your Legacy could be used to make one amazing machine, ONE that could be used with your CNC and or surpass your CNC capability's all together. All depending on your wants and needs/projects planned. If you are looking to make money with your Legacy, I would suggest to talk to Mike Pung.  He made a very good living using his Wood Chuck Mill. (the early model Legacy LOM.) Here are some of his videos.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooqZZkCp7tI&t=12shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjcFpO51upw&t=18shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHgzEKnON-o&t=41sC.A.G.





On Tuesday, May 28, 2024 at 12:31:56 AM EDT, Chris Liska <chris...@gmail.com> wrote:





i can't post the manual. i get a message is too long error. and posting pictures seems to be challenging as well.On Saturday, May 25, 2024 at 8:36:52 PM UTC-5 Curt George wrote:Hello Again Chris.  (Im off from work early today.)Legacy use to say for there logo.   "Legacy where the only Limitation is your Imagination" Mike Pung put out a few video's on different methods to get the mostout of your Legacy. (A few years back.) that are both very good.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHgzEKnON-o&t=31s   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjcFpO51upw&t=13s OUR archives are loaded with good info to get the most form yourLegacy,  all that you have to do is look for it. (OR ASK the GROUP and I knowsomeone in the group will be all to willing to help you out.)I would guess the Next step for you is to figure out what you want to make then you can try to see how to use your tools to get the job done the best you can.I like to tell everyone.  The Legacy is a very good tool, but its the Craftsman who makes the art,not the tool, by its self.Take care. and have a GREAT Memorial Day!C.A.G.On Saturday, May 25, 2024 at 2:05:34 AM UTC-4 Curt George wrote:
Hello Chris.I would like to help you, sadly the manual you refer to is not in your e-mail to the group.Could you send us a photo of your machine.  Legacy over the years made a number of different modals. the 1000/ Alum. rail was made with 3 different length of rail, but the basic machine is the same .How many gear sets do you have? Legacy made 3 set of gears for the 1000.  the standard, .25 and X2 gear sets. each gear set will give you a number of different pitches that the Legacy can make.  There are two directional gear sets, one for right and one for left handed ropes.The Legacy is a very useful tool, for not only spindles, but it can also do flat work, like moldings and joinery. as well as basic lathe type of work, but what is really excels at is roping and advance lathe type of work, for things like chairs and staircases and decorative furniture .  Bill.  (Aussiman77181), has a web site, that shows a number of different projects.https://www.youtube.com/@aussiman77181The Groups archives are open to you. I hope to talk to you more, latter.Have a good night.C.A.G.





On Saturday, May 25, 2024 at 01:43:02 AM EDT, Chris Liska <chris...@gmail.com> wrote:





A few years ago I purchased a tool lot (table saw, router table, jointer, planer, floor drill press, dust collector, air filter, lathe, radial arm saw, plus more) and it included the ornamental mill (which i had NO idea what it was at the time. however, it didn't matter b/c the price was right for the rest of the lot with or without this thing).the entire lot had been stored in a warehouse and abused by mice (and possibly other vermin). I've spent the past few years cleaning things and setting up the shop, and i'm

Re: Why did you buy an ornamental mill?

2024-05-13 Thread Bob Mark

I bought ine in mid 2000. I was and am an avid wood worker but never got into turning. So i saw a video and took the plunge. Am I good with it, No. Do i need to spend more time with it, Yes. I appreciate good equipment and  enjoy the little that I do use it.Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn May 13, 2024, at 10:56 AM, M.W.Foscue  wrote:Mike,
 
GREAT story - thanks for sharing.
And - Thank you for your service to our nation!
We appreciate all that you contribute to The Group.
 
Thank you!
Mac


-Original Message-From: Sent: May 13, 2024 12:14 PMTo: Subject: Re: Why did you buy an ornamental mill?
 
It was the mid 90's and I was still in the Air Force and was working on the next stage in my life, retirement!  So that lasted a week and I was ready to get something started.  Woodworking was always a hobby for me so I was pretty well equipped.  After all, I had a Shop-smith! One day I was looking for a porch post that was too big for my lathe to handle and happened across a column and stair company downtown.  While I was waiting my turn, the customer ordered some balusters and also brought in a chair spindle to see if they could duplicate it.  The lady said no but I was standing behind the guy out of his sight shaking my head yes!  She said just a moment and took the spindle around the corner, I followed her and told her I could do that for her company.  She went back and told the guy yes and the relationship began before I ever said hello.  I noticed the balusters he purchased were pretty plain and asked Betty, after the customer was gone, if I added a rope pattern to the stock part, if she thought it would sell.  She said bring me one and we will see.  I ordered the Wood-Chuck that day and the rest is history.  I've watch the Legacy grow out of the Woodchuck as steel and then aluminum, then to CNC.  But I still hold on to the Woodchuck because of all the things I can do with it, you just can't with the Legacy red line.  My business was 80% based on the turning and roping and 20% on radius mill-work using the Woodchuck or the Williams and Hussy molder.  30 years was a great run and now, looking back, the greatest twist that ever came from the ornamental world was the friends I have made.  Some friends have passed on and others are immortal but fellow sawdust chewers and customers alike have a huge place in my heart.  I found a Customer-friend-student to pass on my twisted ways to. Doug said to me when we first started the possibility of him taking the business, that he loved to see a piece of lumber and visualize what was in there.  I knew right then that he was going to be a great fit!  I'm a lucky man to have had the opportunities I have had.  I guess my secret is this, when asked "Could you do this?" My response is always "Absolutely!  Then I figure out how and smile at what I got myself into.  Never second guess, just get started.  I love this group because I see a lot of the same attitude.  I'm proud of you all!  I am always here if anyone needs help.  And will always be a LiLtwisted.
Mike OK
Mike Pung 405-650-0542
On 5/12/2024 5:24 AM, Timothy Krause wrote:
Hello All, I thought I would toss this question out to hear why you bought your ornamental mill. For me, I bought my first machine when I wanted to bring a different level of details to my current work. I was in a real niche market that I wanted to do some woodworking "tricks" that few people could figure out how they were made. How about you? -Tim 
 
-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/ebcb7f0b-3479-4546-84b7-64e9610cc419%40iglide.net.

 



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/8149bc92-be3e-efc2-4746-0aa226d57fbb%40earthlink.net.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/65E42912-EAC0-4D34-BE2E-1AFD03D05C33%40gmail.com.

Re: Roger's new work of Art

2024-03-30 Thread Bob Mark

Such beautiful work.. I. An only dream of having those skills.Bob MarlOn Mar 29, 2024, at 8:22 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills  wrote:Hello Everyone.Roger (Ccm Ccm) made these table, He told me that he could not get the pix. size down enough to share with the Group.I think this is a breath taking work of Art. and I feel everyone in the group. should see it.Good job Roger!  C.A.G.



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/1979365805.2024681.1711768922492%40mail.yahoo.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/354B5AF5-7366-4305-9FD9-A1DA90B60693%40gmail.com.

Re: Feb 5 bone turnings

2024-02-29 Thread Bob Mark

Very nice work..it’s amazing seeing your talent. Thanks for sharing.Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn Feb 29, 2024, at 7:04 AM, Tim Ziegler  wrote:yeah now one can really see it up close and personal. Kind Regards,Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & SpecialtyZiegler Laser Worx LLC14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cellOn Thu, Feb 29, 2024 at 8:18 AM <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:try this one i enlarged for you Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Tim ZieglerSent: Thursday, February 29, 2024 10:35 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Feb 5 bone turnings Hey Curt, Those are some extremely nice looking bone handles. Thanks for sharing them.  You are truely the Bone turning Master.Can you take a close up of the one you used the wave attachmenton?  I would like to zoom in on the pattern a little bit closer. Great work as always. Kind Regards, Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & SpecialtyZiegler Laser Worx LLC14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330 320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cell  On Wed, Feb 28, 2024 at 11:45 PM 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:Hello Everyone. (Just got home form work.)Here are some of my latest turnings. I am really having a lot of fun with my Legacy. Any question or comments are, as always welcome.I am learning new tricks that are really helping me achievemy personal best. ;-) C.A.G.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/253088644.1267098.1709185539973%40mail.yahoo.com.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLHQRoGuHokz28RU2GK7saH_8hn-aZYodDe6%3DGOfWoOjVg%40mail.gmail.com.



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/01da6b1a%2418eeb5f0%244acc21d0%24%40mmnet.com.au.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLEV9wHKdVNJQMi4R8w%3DANY160XfLaFiPN4VtYLD4weOXw%40mail.gmail.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/3B70677A-AC90-4A58-894B-5A20ADEB11AE%40gmail.com.

Re: New bone turning FEB24

2024-02-05 Thread Bob Mark

Very nice work. Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn Feb 5, 2024, at 7:20 PM, Ed Trevillian wrote:Curt,That is outstanding!Ed TrevillianOn Mon, Feb 5, 2024, 6:28 PM 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
Hello everyone.the camera just dose not show up the details of this.Here is one more.C.A.G.

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 06:19:23 PM EST, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Hello Everyone.I found some time in the shop today. So I figured that its been a whilesince I last turned a bone handle.This turning started off as a three start rope , but after I decided to off-set it some and make it into a 9 start rope. So what we have is, A three large rope cut with 6 smaller off-set ropes in between, all done on a tapered handle.Let me know what you think?C.A.G.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAL8Pmr0OoXKnGLGegGEm3_kaYiN86xUOJNkZdYyKRn74sbUX4g%40mail.gmail.com.

Re: Test post delete at will

2023-12-22 Thread Bob Mark

Maybe just quiet.. i am getting redy for family so have been just quiet. I wish all a very Merry Chrustmas. BobSent from Bob Mark's iPadOn Dec 22, 2023, at 7:27 AM, cdkr...@gmail.com wrote:Is this group really quiet or am I still having a problem?DanKOn Tuesday, December 19, 2023 at 5:11:13 PM UTC-5 Jeff Richmond wrote:Got it.Jeff from Connecticut Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 19, 2023, at 11:47 AM, cdkr...@gmail.com <cdkr...@gmail.com> wrote:Merry Christmas everyone.This is a test post after a complete restart of everything because the site wouldn't take a post from me. Tim Z was able to post the content on my behalf after I sent it to him. Thank you, Tim. DanK

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/a264160b-7d55-461f-8a91-70553e47e1b4n%40googlegroups.com.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/bcd8b498-83b1-4bf3-94a5-d7a083c32a64n%40googlegroups.com.

Re: laser pointer

2023-11-27 Thread Bob Mark

BillHow about a laser bore sight for a firearm. I have been thinking about mounting one. Some go down the barrel could be easy to fabricate. Sent from Bob's iPhoneOn Nov 26, 2023, at 9:09 PM, Rick Hutley  wrote:Not sure if this one would suit your needs Bill:  OLIGHT O'Pen ProOn Amazon. Expensive for a laser pen ($55 US) but it is rechargeable and does have an on/off switchRickOn Nov 26, 2023, at 21:56, bulke...@mmnet.com.au wrote:Thanks curt but nothing there suitable  Bill From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills  Sent: Monday, November 27, 2023 3:51 PMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: laser pointer Bill Amazon has a number of different pen stile laser pointers.https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Demonstrator-Construction-Demonstration-Instruction/dp/B0B94DVX3D/ref=sr_1_42?keywords=pen+laser+pointer&qid=1701060470&sr=8-42  Here is one that look like will fit the bill. (excuse the pun.) ;-) C.A.G. On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 11:39:32 PM EST, bulke...@mmnet.com.au  wrote:   I need some help guys I’m looking for a laser pointer to put on one of my tools it needs to be about the dia Of a pen, runs on one AAA battery that you put inside it and you push a button once to turn it on then push once again to turn  it off Do you think I can find one that meets this criteria all the ones here you have to hold the button to keep it working which is no goodWhen you need 2 hands to work the machine or it runs on button batteries or it has internal recharging or it is so powerful it would burn A hole in the moon and is the size of a fly spray can. Lol So please if anyone can help me find one please show me where I can buy it from Bill -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/003b01da20eb%24b1de7300%24159b5900%24%40mmnet.com.au.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/635930568.4428812.1701060653589%40mail.yahoo.com.



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/000701da20ee%241e3a3f50%245aaebdf0%24%40mmnet.com.au.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/5D208FD5-28BF-46D1-8934-780B42CC2CC6%40gmail.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/5C6BA392-4F65-4FA6-BF91-202D31E46D28%40gmail.com.

Re: ROLL CALL!!!

2023-08-19 Thread Bob Mark

I am still lurking round.. Been a crazy summer. Garden in, irrigtion sprunf a leak under the house. Pipes are all rusted. Guess whose projects are on hold😂😂Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn Aug 19, 2023, at 6:40 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
Glad to hear you are having an Adventure Mike. I hope you have a GREAT Time, and Be safe. Looking forward to hear more, latter.Take care, And Thanks for chiming in.C.A.G.

On Saturday, August 19, 2023 at 09:33:48 AM EDT, Okla Mike (Liltwisted) wrote:

I'm still here and lurk when I can but am on the
road quite a bit. Will be in California in a couple days and
then on to Alaska for the month of September. Then Oct will be
in Arizona. I hope somebody mows my lawn. LOL.

Mike Pung

AKA Mike OK

On 8/19/2023 12:09 AM, 'Curt George'
via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:

Hi guys! I know its summer
Vacation season for most of you.

But I was wondering if anyone
has heard form any of our senor members, We have not heard
from in quite a while / long time.
How about Roger (English
Roger) comes to mind...
or Michael Kratky? Brigitte?
Joe B.?... I could name more old friends of ours. But I think
you all know who you are.
It would be nice for everyone
to chime in and say hello. (just to let us know you all are
OK?)
Mac or Russ, are you guys
still lurking around?
(HOW about BOB? or David, Charlie?...)(AND
the list goes on!) ;-)

Have a good night everyone.

C.A.G.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/266895039.1004594.1692421763749%40mail.yahoo.com.

Re: Today's projects

2023-05-22 Thread Bob Mark

Nice work.Sent from Bob Mark's iPadOn May 22, 2023, at 5:48 PM, Tim Ziegler wrote:Hey Curt,Nice job as always and great to see your excitement in bone turning. I enjoy it as well but don't see to find quite as much time to play with it. I have a bunch of discs ready to glue up again though so as soon as I get done procrastinatingmy cabinet doors I will have more play time. So in the meantime keep sharing. Kind Regards,Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & Specialty14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cellOn Mon, May 22, 2023 at 6:03 PM 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:Hello Everyone.I don't know if you all are getting tired of seeing my bone turnings or not.If you are I am sorry, I am having such a good time playing with this materialI may be getting carried away with working with it.Here is last months projects, all in one photo. as well as the three I did today. Any question or comments, Please feel free to speak up.talk to you all more latter.C.A.G.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLEOuvs2bpEc2OGCcVjrnnfkXfX52bmWnvqoF5sFHHUEkg%40mail.gmail.com.

Re: Christmas

2022-12-25 Thread Bob Mark

Merry Christmas to all.50 degrees in Northern California.May you all be blessed with happiness and good health.BobSent from Bob's iPhoneOn Dec 25, 2022, at 9:00 AM, Tim Ziegler  wrote:We had a heat wave this morning, was only negative 6 below zero. Kind Regards,Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & Specialty14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cellOn Sun, Dec 25, 2022 at 10:39 AM 'Denson Ingram' via Legacy Ornamental Mills  wrote:Nice 43 degrees in Texas.Merry Christmas to all.DensonSent from Denson's iPhoneOn Dec 25, 2022, at 9:03 AM, Steven Jacobs  wrote:Good morning all from cold NW Florida! Merry Christmas and Gods blessings to all if you and your families!Steve JacobsSent from my iPhoneOn Dec 25, 2022, at 7:27 AM, Tim Ziegler  wrote:Wow, so enjoy your family time.Kind Regards,Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & Specialty14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cellOn Sat, Dec 24, 2022 at 9:39 PM  wrote:Well a pause now after 6 hours of opening presents lol do you believe that 6 hours, turkey is on and cooking Christmas is when weHave it we don’t have thanks giving so we can all sit and talk our Christmas dinner is an evening meal when it’s a little coolerChristmas is a really big deal in my house Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of Tim ZieglerSent: Sunday, 25 December 2022 11:49 AMTo: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: Christmas Hey Bill Merry Christmas and a Blessed New Year. We as well have company and will open gifts tonight. Merry Christmas to all a good night. Kind Regards, Timothy J. ZieglerZiegler WoodWork & Specialty14171 160th Ave.Foreston MN 56330 320-294-5798 shop320-630-2243 cell  On Sat, Dec 24, 2022 at 1:49 PM  wrote:Well everyone its Christmas morning here right now and my family is starting to arrive its present opening timeSo I have to go for a while , so Merry Christmas to everyone and god bless you all, as I see my family coming in the doorI already know I have been.  Bill-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/01d917d0%24c807a180%245816e480%24%40mmnet.com.au.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLGMyZ4Ygmy%3DJ_PBrr-%3D%3DotRotNpZQnmLkHbUp73hfedCA%40mail.gmail.com.



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/000201d91812%2481722640%24845672c0%24%40mmnet.com.au.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLF1OXf6fkokzV6ti%2B%3DrXWE%2BzMCEFeCKHQptjbFuosAuuA%40mail.gmail.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/BF5E67C6-60F4-4275-9870-D8CF82218592%40gmail.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/F1590F87-6BC9-4682-970E-D758D535D0DD%40yahoo.com.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental

Re: tilting Z axis

2022-08-28 Thread Bob Mark

Bill, nice job. I see where you removed material for the router clamps.  How 
thick of a plate did you need to use to maintain strength and rigidity?
I really like your mods.
Bob


Sent from Bob Mark's iPad

> On Aug 27, 2022, at 7:00 PM, bulke...@mmnet.com.au wrote:
> 
> 
> No I don’t have a powder coater why??.
> The router dose tilt 90 degrees and more if you look in the slot you will see 
> various tapped holes they go all around in a circle
> See the pic of just the back plate mounted, this means anywhere in a 360 
> degree circle the router can be positioned.
> Also the back plate can be mounted lower or higher up the z axis to get the 
> router lower down between the rails
> For horizontal work at different angles as well giving you very much greater  
> options in the horizontal configuration
> see in the pic it’s in a lower position.
> Now I’m fairly sure by moving the top hat positions narrower on the z axis 
> cross slide it would then fit a revo
> I have not done this yet but it looks possible so then this would let a revo 
> cut internal threads.
>  
> Bill
>  
>  
>  
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
>  On Behalf Of Dan Krager
> Sent: Sunday, 28 August 2022 8:25 AM
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Subject: Re: tilting Z axis
>  
> Hey, Bill.  This is a great fair dinkum mod and your execution is top notch.  
> Do you have a powder coater?  This is not so easily done on a REVO, so it 
> will be a long ways off before I can do it.
>  
> Curious minds have questions. It looks like in the pictures that the router 
> can tilt only 45°L or R.  How does internal threading happen?  It looks like 
> the Z axis plate would descend below the carriage for threading in the 
> headstock spindle if the router could turn  90° L.  Are there another pair of 
> holes for use when the router is horizontal?
>  
> DanK
>  
> On Saturday, August 27, 2022 at 4:54:01 AM UTC-4 aussiman wrote:
> Today I finished modifying my z axis into a tilting z axis.
> It will tilt to 90 degrees in either direction meaning
> Hollowing or internal threading is possible
>  
> Here is a short video showing movement 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c1l2rk3x7x8u8tp/AABDOUO18HBunlPyT1m7sQ1aa?dl=0
>  
> Bill
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/29fc7fd4-bf67-4ca6-b400-779f9cf7b735n%40googlegroups.com.
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/000201d8ba81%24ef8b7030%24cea25090%24%40mmnet.com.au.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/D0AE3CE4-4C63-4872-AFF0-FECD68AA8A2A%40gmail.com.

RE: REvO work

2022-08-17 Thread Bob Mark

Great work Dan. I am kind of rubbing varnish kind of guy, but it does take a 
lot of coats to get a deep finish. I will need to look into Deft.

Keep it up, making me want to get going.

Bob

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Ziegler
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2022 4:22 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: REvO work

 

Well to say the least I am proud of your work. 

Bill and I both love the scroll saw as well. I have the Excalibur 30 inch and 
love it. 

I still have a couple craftsman C arm as well and think they are 20 inch but 
dont recall. 

but enough of that. I can't wait to see what else is on the agenda. Great lathe 
work too. 

I enjoy turning as well. 

Yeah so in the lacquer world Deft is a good precat lacquer and yes stir it up 
and away you go. 

I use mostly Sherwin Willams and catalyze it myself, also some poly, and 
conversion varnish, etc... 

but depends on what I'm doing for who. 

I am also testing some wipe on stuff but big on spraying. Doing it as a living, 
spraying is the only way. 

Anyway keep up the awesome work looking for more to come my friend. 


Kind Regards,

 

Timothy J. Ziegler

Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty

14171 160th Ave.

Foreston MN 56330

 

320-294-5798 shop

320-630-2243 cell

 

 

On Wed, Aug 17, 2022 at 2:37 PM Dan Krager mailto:cdkra...@gmail.com> > wrote:

The only lazy Susan work done on the REVO was the column twist. The rest is 
lathe, scroll saw, and hand held router work. 

The napkin holder is of course layered scroll work. 

 

The lazy Susan wood is sycamore and has no stain.  I prefer not to use stain if 
I don't have to match anything.  

The finish is two coats of Deft (brushing) lacquer thinned 10% and sprayed on.  
It has a very high 

solids content, seals quickly and builds fast.  Sands unbelievably quickly with 
stearated abrasive 

papers.It is slightly retarded for the advertised brushing 

capability. Why use it?  It's readily available in the local stores.  Otherwise 
I would use Sherwin Williams 

lacquer.  Used their catalyzed lacquer once and liked it, but it does not store 
well at all.  Deft has a

nearly infinite shelf life with no skimming.  I leave it in the spray gun.  
Just mix it up good to stir 

the flattening agent.  I clean the gun about every five years whether it needs 
it or not. I gave up my 

pressure pots in the move.  I may get a small one again just for that.

 

The spoon is pear surrounded by sycamore and one coat of oiled varnish, 
"Antique Oil".  

 

Thanks for all the encouragement.

DanK

On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 2:34:30 PM UTC-4 timjz...@gmail.com 
<mailto:timjz...@gmail.com>  wrote:

Very good. I'm glad that is working out for you. 

Great work.




Kind Regards,

 

Timothy J. Ziegler

Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty

14171 160th Ave.

Foreston MN 56330

 

320-294-5798   shop

320-630-2243   cell

 

On Wed, Aug 17, 2022 at 12:21 PM Dan Krager mailto:cdkr...@gmail.com> > wrote:

The spoon pics: 

  
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a46032aaa8ef8/SpoonTwist1.jpg?part=0.2&view=1>
   
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a46032aaa8ef8/Salvage.JPG?part=0.1&view=1>
 

 

DanK

On Wednesday, August 17, 2022 at 1:20:13 PM UTC-4 Dan Krager wrote:

Hi everyone.  Well, the indexer works quite well when the pin stays engaged 
properly. I found that the miscreant machining on the SIG bushing allowed the 
index ring on the SIG to move off center so the index pin doesn't engage 
properly on part of the gear. That's an easy fix...make new SIG bushing. 

 

In the meantime, I made it work by moving the gear back on center in its slop.  
Here's two recent projects.  Remember the beginners mistake on the spoon?  This 
is the fix.  I forgot to change the pitch hand to better show off the internal 
spiral.

 

  
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a41f55fab9ef8/LazySusan5.JPG?part=0.4&view=1>
   
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a41f55fab9ef8/LazySusan1.JPG?part=0.3&view=1>
   
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a41f55fab9ef8/LazySusan2.JPG?part=0.2&view=1>
   
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a41f55fab9ef8/LazySusan3.JPG?part=0.1&view=1>
   
<https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/attach/a41f55fab9ef8/LazySusan4.JPG?part=0.5&view=1>
 

 

The lazy susan is configurable for the mood.  It circulates smoothly on six 
marble "bearings" running a shallow path under the top and on top of base.  
They are held in spaced position by a thin plywood ring with six marble sized 
holes.  The center shaft is a custom machined post with a recessed lock nut 
under the base.

Dan

Re: Sources for the Template Follower Styluses

2020-11-30 Thread Bob Mark

Very nice stylus. Looks like the one I made, now to build some more. Christmas 
decorations are up time to hit the shop.

Sent from Bob Mark's iPad

> On Nov 30, 2020, at 1:39 PM, Tim Ziegler  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a brother that can make anything you could possibly want?
> 
> Kind Regards,
> 
> Timothy J. Ziegler
> Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
> 14171 160th Ave.
> Foreston MN 56330
> 
> 320-294-5798 shop
> 320-630-2243 cell
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 2:24 PM Ray Leaman  wrote:
>> Did anyone have any sources where we might get a suitable replacement for 
>> the styluses we all lost or never had to begin with?
>> 
>> Ray
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAEnRCdJ4kdwSOHQZaaN2g2q7o1y05Ei%3D0p1re65s2oDA8-24Jg%40mail.gmail.com.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAMBiJLFTS-exZ7PP1LTPgqmk53GEr3R6X5zY1-JJ-rStjaW0xg%40mail.gmail.com.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/145B4CD2-BD22-419D-9ACE-9E3B260F0E85%40gmail.com.

RE: Sources for the Template Follower Styluses

2020-11-30 Thread Bob Mark

I needed a smaller one for some gears. I just turned down a piece of rod. 
Drilled a hole in a piece of aluminum and turns a knob shape on it. The 
aluminum part needs to be the same for all stylus sizes and just change the 
bore and rod diameters. If that helps any?

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ray Leaman
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 12:24 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Sources for the Template Follower Styluses

 

Did anyone have any sources where we might get a suitable replacement for the 
styluses we all lost or never had to begin with?

 

Ray

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
 .
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAEnRCdJ4kdwSOHQZaaN2g2q7o1y05Ei%3D0p1re65s2oDA8-24Jg%40mail.gmail.com
 

 .

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/059d01d6c757%242de65400%2489b2fc00%24%40gmail.com.

Re: MA-12-56 (pro Package) with Accessories for sell

2020-08-25 Thread bob sail

Bill,

Right now I would like to sell it as a complete package. That might change
down the road.

Thanks
Bruce

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 4:16 AM  wrote:

> Hi bruce welcome if you want to sell any bits off your mill I would be
> very interested in your - Rotating Carrier Tray and your motor controller
> and limit switches
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com <
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> *On Behalf Of *
> sailf...@gmail.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 25 August 2020 3:53 AM
> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> *Subject:* MA-12-56 (pro Package) with Accessories for sell
>
>
>
> Would anyone or know of anyone who might be interested buying a MA-12-56
> woodchuck system (Pro Package).
>
> Includes:
>
> - Porter-Cable 7539 Electronic Variable Speed plunge Router (3.25 hp)
> - Drive motor (drives the lead screw which moves the router along the X
> axis. Rotates the spindle shaft independently of the movement of the router.
> - 4.5” x 14” x 60” flat stock capacity
> - 9.5” x 60” spindle capacity
> - Router bits for making spindle turnings.
> - Adjustable (Head and Tail) bed for tapering
> - Contour Duplicator (Follower)
> - Rotating Carrier Tray
> - Indexing Hub Set
> - You can turn right and left-hand spirals.
> - Include 6 project videos and the system assembly video.
> - Gear Reduction and Indexing System.
> - Manuals for system and router
>
> Please call with any questions:
> Bruce Lindsey
> 614-425-4051
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/65c93c40-ff9e-4e34-a316-9565320fe99bn%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_-6962602698861291629_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/001401d67ab7%24ff874fb0%24fe95ef10%24%40mmnet.com.au
> 
> .
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/CAKA%2BCy4EsraaLtshOhqZJern30Jt9WOFc-Cf5_0KqzcQL4Bekw%40mail.gmail.com.

Re: Question on the Legacy's Z axis

2020-05-08 Thread Bob Mark

I have the crank style Z axis with digital readout. It uses a height bar setup. 
You dial in the height and lock the bar. Then try to reproduce that height, no 
way. As the router drops, the z carriage cocks a little to one side and goes 
deeper than set. I have done all I can think of to take the play out of the 
carriage, but to no avail. When i purchased this upgrade i thought it was cool. 
 Not so much now. When the router is running it will settle some on its own. I 
will eventually come up with somehing.

Sent from Bob Mark's iPad

> On May 8, 2020, at 6:57 AM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone.
> 
> I was asked in a private e-mail about the Legacy's Z axis. The Gentleman owns 
> a model 1200 and wants more...
> 
> Now Everyone here knows that Legacy no longer sells the parts he wants. I 
> suggested that the question be brought up to the group. (so that's why I am 
> posting this question to the group.)
> 
> Everyone here knows that I made my Own Z axis For my Legacy 1000ex. ,(So, I 
> will be adding my own 2 cents on this topic latter.)  Has anyone else made 
> there own? or have any plans to try to?
> 
> Part 2 of the question.
> A lot of people own the Original Z axis that Legacy made.  What's the Pro's 
> and Con's of it. What do you like and or dis-like about it.  
> Is there anything about it you would change? and if so how? and why?
> 
> Any and all ideas or thoughts are welcome.
> 
> Have a good day.
> 
> C.A.G.
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/1612994058.9537.1588946225009%40mail.yahoo.com.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/61B7DD2F-0569-4F09-8E30-0C9CB8B411A1%40gmail.com.

Re: New Member

2020-01-17 Thread Bob Mark



On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 9:00:59 PM UTC-8, Bob Mark wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> My name is Bob Mark. I am retired and enjoy woodworking. I built all new 
> cabinets for our kitchen and bathroom remodels. I used to build giant scale 
> RC airplanes. I just love working with wood.
> I bought a 1200 in early 2008 and have played with it some. Having moved I 
> packed it up and had it stored. Now I am back to learning how to use it. 
> I hope to learn a lot from all the posts I see. 
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/e01561bc-8e6e-41be-940d-0a5fac1df331%40googlegroups.com.

Re: New Member

2020-01-17 Thread Bob Mark

 A little additional info. I live in Redding California. I was born and 
raised in Redding. Along with my legacy I have a Powermatic table saw 
(nice) 14" drum sander, jointer, planer, router table and cabinet, scroll 
saw, Jet Bandsaw. 30" metal lathe and combo mill. 
I recently make a follower for 3/8" bit. Pressed rod into an aluminum knob 
I made. Almost looks like a factory part.
I moved back to Redding after spending most of my professional careeer in 
Southern Cal. This small town fits me just fine.
Thanks for nice welcome from the group.

On Thursday, January 16, 2020 at 9:00:59 PM UTC-8, Bob Mark wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> My name is Bob Mark. I am retired and enjoy woodworking. I built all new 
> cabinets for our kitchen and bathroom remodels. I used to build giant scale 
> RC airplanes. I just love working with wood.
> I bought a 1200 in early 2008 and have played with it some. Having moved I 
> packed it up and had it stored. Now I am back to learning how to use it. 
> I hope to learn a lot from all the posts I see. 
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/17f1cbf7-5cda-40ad-b740-1e7f83445cc5%40googlegroups.com.

New Member

2020-01-16 Thread Bob Mark

Hello All,
My name is Bob Mark. I am retired and enjoy woodworking. I built all new 
cabinets for our kitchen and bathroom remodels. I used to build giant scale 
RC airplanes. I just love working with wood.
I bought a 1200 in early 2008 and have played with it some. Having moved I 
packed it up and had it stored. Now I am back to learning how to use it. 
I hope to learn a lot from all the posts I see. 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/d5bc2c74-c523-4bb9-97f4-7ad5ed57ab18%40googlegroups.com.

Re: Bevel bit for turned posts

2018-04-30 Thread Bob Busch

Thanks for the ask and reply, you caught me before I ordered it! I have 
been looking for the right bit but, most of the old info is long gone and 
even when I first bought the 1200, couldn't find info to make the ugly 
square block into one with relieved corners. 935 it is...\ Thanks! 

On Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 2:41:14 PM UTC-7, Bob Busch wrote:
>
> I am wondering what bit does the chamfer on the square part of a turned 
> leg? I need to order a new rope bit and would like to add this to the 
> order. Thanks!
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: Bevel bit for turned posts

2018-04-29 Thread Bob Busch

Thanks for the the replies! I guess I will order the 60 degree with the 1" 
cutting diameter. After 20 + years of owning/running a custom cabinet shop, 
I moved to a rural location and now am doing a lot of furniture and 
barnwood doors. The hardest thing on the above project was working with a 
3" maple top. All of my saws are 10" (except miter saw) and can't cut 3" in 
single pass. The track saw got close and was able to hand finish the cut 
for glue up. The legs turned out good but, unfortunately I dropped the rope 
bit and splintered some of the carbide out of the center of the bit. Was 
still pointy, and was able to get this out without waiting for a new bit. 
12/4 maple, alder and 100 year old barn wood. Cheers from the Arizona 
outback!

On Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 2:41:14 PM UTC-7, Bob Busch wrote:
>
> I am wondering what bit does the chamfer on the square part of a turned 
> leg? I need to order a new rope bit and would like to add this to the 
> order. Thanks!
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: Bar molding

2018-01-08 Thread Bob Busch



On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:08:19 PM UTC-7, Bob Busch wrote:
>
> Hello! I am working on a bar project and would love to include this detail 
> (attached pic upper dental part) to the bar front that will have 3 sections 
> with 45 degree angles. I also need peanut bar edge molding which I plan to 
> just buy cutters for the molding machine but, think it could be made on the 
> Legacy? 
>
> Thanks! Bob
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Bar molding

2018-01-07 Thread Bob Busch

Hello! I am working on a bar project and would love to include this detail 
(attached pic upper dental part) to the bar front that will have 3 sections 
with 45 degree angles. I also need peanut bar edge molding which I plan to 
just buy cutters for the molding machine but, think it could be made on the 
Legacy? 

Thanks! Bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: double sided tape

2016-06-07 Thread mark-bob

MLCS.com has double face tape at 1" x 108ft for $15.95 a roll

-From: "Stan Shuford" 
To: "Group Legacy Mill"
Cc: 
Sent: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 08:54:54 -0400
Subject: Re: double sided tape

  I buy my double sided tape from Craft Supply. The web site is
www.woodturnerscatalog.com [1]   
   Stan Shuford
 s...@shuford.com [2]   
  On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 5:48 AM, Bill Bulkeley  wrote:

I’m reposting this with a new heading so any one in the future
searching our archives looking for info on double sided tape will
hopefully be able to find it easier . i hope it comes up as a new
topic 

Bill 

 [4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uTsQ3dYRrk [5] 

I have not used the method described on the link below but plan to in
the near future. I need to buy the supper glue and accelerant.   

It is not double sided tape but hopefully a better method.   

Harvey   

 [6]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uTsQ3dYRrk [7]   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Phil Burns  wrote:  

I just got a manual Legacy 1000xl mill and just started using it, my
first project being a flag display box. I am learning by my mistakes.
My question is what is a good source for the double sided tape used to
hold the project in place while milling it? Does it have to be the
foam kind? I got a partial roll of the foam stuff with the machine,
but there is no brand stamp on it so don't know what kind it is or
from where to order it. I've been looking online and there seems to be
different kinds, going from about $7 a roll up to $20. A suggestion
for an online source would be appreciated.  

Phil

--

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[9].
 To post to this group, send email to
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [10].
 Visit this group at
[11]https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills [12].
 For more options, visit [13]https://groups.google.com/d/optout [14]. 

-- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[15].
 To post to this group, send email to
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [16].
 Visit this group at
[17]https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills [18].
 For more options, visit [19]https://groups.google.com/d/optout [20].

No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com [21]
 Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4591/12366 - Release Date:
06/05/16   

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[22].
 To post to this group, send email to
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [23].
 Visit this group at
[24]https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills [25].
 For more options, visit [26]https://groups.google.com/d/optout [27].

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[28].
 To post to this group, send email to
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [29].
 Visit this group at
[30]https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills [31].
 For more options, visit [32]https://groups.google.com/d/optout [33].

Links:
--
[1] https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/
[2] mailto:s...@shuford.com
[3] mailto:bulke...@mmnet.com.au
[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uTsQ3dYRrk
[5] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uTsQ3dYRrk
[6] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uTsQ3dYRrk
[7] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uTsQ3dYRrk
[8] mailto:fillbu...@gmail.com
[9] mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[10] mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[11] https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
[12] https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
[13] https://groups.google.com/d/optout
[14] https://groups.google.com/d/optout
[15] mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[16] mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[17] https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
[18] https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
[19] https://groups.google.com/d/optout
[20] https://groups.google.com/d/optout
[21] http://www.avg.com
[22] mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[23] mailto:legacy-ornamental

Re: New Members and Moderation

2016-02-22 Thread Bob C



On Saturday, March 31, 2012 at 7:07:09 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> Hello New Members, 
>  
> This is a reminder that until you post a message, your messages must be 
> approved by either an owner or moderators of this group to be 
> posted.  Google sends an automated message to the people that 
> are responsible for approving messages, but please be aware it can be a 
> very long delay.   
>  
> Getting off the moderated list is easy as posting a message introducing 
> yourself.  Asking a question related to the equipment or posting a photo is 
> always good for getting instant approval.  I still believe this is a family 
> friendly place so please don't be shy.  
>  
> As of today, there are 63 members that have joined since 2010 that have 
> never posted a message.  I sure would like to hear from them either here in 
> this thread, or feel free to send me a note off the list so I can update 
> your status.  
>  
> -Tim
>  
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: Using Pattern

2016-01-23 Thread mark-bob

Thanks for the quick response to my question. Enjoy reading your email
and your advise to fellow woodworkers. Right now busy using a CNC for
making signs! Thanks again for the information, Bob

-From: "CURTIS GEORGE" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sat, 23 Jan 2016 10:40:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Using Pattern

   Hello and Good morning everyone.   Bill your dropbox link is empty.

   Bob, your question on using the template follower is both hard and
easy to do, all depending on what you are looking to make.   
   the Easy part . General template following. (this is for both flat
work and spindles turning.)   Most Legacy's have a set of angle
brackets that are mounted onto the back outside rails, this bracket is
designed to hold template, It is easiest to make a template out of
wood, giving you the general profile of the shape you want to make.  
Once you have your template mounted, you must align the router and
template, (as a general rule this is one way that you can do it. but
there are other ways as well.)   I find the center line,I lock the
router bit (lets use a 1/2" straight cutter,for this example.) I put
the edge of the router bit/carriage at the center of the Legacy, (use
your tailstock center as the point of alignment.) and lock the
carriage at this point, Next you must align your follower with the
template. (remember you are at the center of the machine, so you must
have the template have a centerline marked on it as well.)( its easy
to forget this, and just line up the center with the edge or your
template.) Once you have the centers aligned, you can then unlock your
carriage (Y axis) and put your follower into the edge of your
template.   You must leave the Y axis unlocked while using the
template follower, using this method.   Once the template is mounted
correctly, the follower will guide your Y-axis As you move your
carriage along your X axis.   For spindle turning, you have to cut
form the side, (not form the top like you do when you are roping.)  
NOW you have a choice of ways you want to cut, the easiest and safest
way (for your first time.) is to lock your spindle in place and do a
flat cut form the side, once cut, you then index the part a little and
then re-run the router/carriage after every index making your spindle
round,or any shape you want. (remember to take light/small cuts, More
cuts, may take time, but its the safest way to do this. if you hog off
the wood its easy to lose control ...)   Now once you understand the
concept, you can go into a more advanced method . I have made for my
Legacy a spindle drive mover, which spins the work piece independent
form the Legacy's gearing. What I do is, once the spindle is spinning,
I lock the carriage (X movement.) and leave the Y axis un-locked. then
I (Using my motor control to move the carriage) I just start cutting
form the side of the machine and follow the template, like a copy
lathe dose.This method is Much faster then what first method that I
explained. But take baby steps, SAFETY IS IMPORTANT . If you don't
understand what you are doing, Then DON'T Try it!   
   For using the template follower on flat stock it is basically the
same set up, But this time you will be cutting form the top, and its
more a one to one copy, Where the router follower goes the router
motor will follow.   Using this method you can make boxes and moldings
and all other kinds of Neat stuff.
http://legacywoodworking.com/techniques.cfm [1]   
   There use to be a number of videos on You-tube videos showing the
Legacy cutting molding from a template but I can not find those
video's at this min.   I have videos (VHS Tapes.) But I have no way of
getting those videos onto this site. (at this time.)   Hopefully
someday soon Tim and I will be able to down load all the videos that
We have onto the group site? but sadly this is not the case at this
time.   

   I wish you luck on your ventures. and Please let us know how it all
turns out. ;-)   Have a good day.   C.A.G.  
-
  FROM: "Bill Bulkeley" 
 TO: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
 SENT: Saturday, January 23, 2016 3:31:36 AM
 SUBJECT: RE: Using Pattern

Opps sorry forgot the link 

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public [2] 

Bill 

FROM: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] ON BEHALF OF Bill
Bulkeley
 SENT: Saturday, 23 January 2016 6:32 PM
 TO: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
 SUBJECT: RE: Using Pattern   

Try here let me know if it doesn’t work I’m not sure if I copied
it properly. 

Legacy has given the members of this group permission to share with
each other  

Information on the old legacy mills but only to members so please do
not share outside the group 

Bill  

FROM: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@google

Using Pattern

2016-01-22 Thread Bob C

I have a LOM 1800, does anyone known of a video how to set-up a pattern to 
duplicate parts. 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: boiled linseed oil

2014-12-21 Thread BOB

I don't know about 3 gallons worth but I make my own wood stain with artist 
paints and use linseed oil , Bob

On Sunday, December 21, 2014 10:12:26 AM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone.
> Merry Christmas to everyone, (Its the session, and the day is only a few 
> days any-how.) ;-)
>
> This is not really Legacy related, but woodworking in general.
> I just got 3 one gallon cans of boiled linseed oil as a part of a horse 
> trade deal. NOW the problem is what do I do with it all ?
> If anyone out there knows a good way to use this stuff and or has a need 
> of it. please let me know? 
> I normally use tung oil,when I use an oil finish. I know that linseed oil 
> was a big part of  the olden days wood finishing process. It was used in 
> almost everything for wood projects, and even used in making paints as well 
> as sealers.
> So back to the question what do I use three gal. for?
>
> C.A.G.
>
> P.S. If anyone has seen Peter P.  Please have him give me a call. Ive lost 
> his ph# as well as his e-mail address.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: finishing

2014-01-21 Thread BOB

just to let you know I heard back from the company that makes the oil 
paints and they told me that the main ingrediant in artist paint is linseed 
oil so everything that I said above would work out fine using it as a toner 
or stain . Rockler sells a color wheel with only the earth tone colors for 
people like me that need the help with the proportions ,she also said that 
if you use the japan drier be aware that it only dries the surface and for 
the whole thing to dry would take weeks  but who cares it is not being used 
as a filler anyway thanks for the input Bob
On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:56:22 AM UTC-5, Michael Kratky wrote: 
>
>  Have seen nitric acid and steel wool solution use on maple resulting in 
> a very appealing antique amber glow appearance.
>
>  
>
> *Michael P. Kratky*
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>  
> *From:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Louis 
> Brown
> *Sent:* Friday, January 17, 2014 6:42 AM
> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
> *Subject:* Re: finishing
>
>  
>   
> Curt,
>
> Thanks for the link.  Learned a lot, especially how to use nitric acid on 
> poplar to create "the poor man's cherry."  LOL  will use it.
>
> Begat
>  
>  
>  
> On Fri, Jan 17, 2014 at 3:17 AM, curt george 
> > 
> wrote:
>  
> Hello everyone, 
>  
> I found this video that shows the acid method, ( Nick Englar is using 
> Niric acid, )
>  
>
> http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS103/SS103_Nitric_Acid_Stain.htm 
>  
>
>  
>  
>  
> C.A.G.
>  
>  - Original Message - 
>  
> *From:* curt george  
>  
> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
>  
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 16, 2014 4:18 AM
>  
> *Subject:* Re: finishing
>  
>  
>  
> Hello Mac.
>  
> If I'm correct the steel wool might be to effect the tannin in some woods 
> like Oak. as I said this recipe is one that I've not tried before, but 
> there is a video on you-tube where this formula was used, it was applied 
> with a brush on a number of different woods. Now here is an ageing formula 
> that I have used before, and it works very well,  2% maradic (SP?) acid and 
> a heat gun. apply the acid water mixture on the wood with a paint brush, 
> let stand for a min or two and then use a heat gun, the wood will make a 
> piñata very quickly, No lines or brush marks can be seen when applying this 
> method.
>  
> I have to go now.
>  
> Have a good day.
>  
> C.A.G.
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  
> *From:* mwfo...@earthlink.net  
>  
> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
>  
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 15, 2014 11:44 PM
>  
> *Subject:* Re: finishing
>  
>  
>
> Hello Curt, 
>  
> Regarding the "wood aging recipe" - Do you put the fine steel wool pad in 
> to the tea-vinegar mix and let it all sit for the 48 hours? (The steel wool 
> must chemically react with the vinegar 
>  
> Or is the fine steel wool pad used to apply the "aging cocktail" to the 
> wood you want to "age"?
>  
>  
>  
> Is the aging solution brushed on to the wood or is the wood placed into a 
> trough and soaked in the solution?
>  
>  
>  
> I'll be interested in seeing a couple "Before - After" photos of an "aged" 
> board that you have created with this concoction.
>  
>  
>  
> Thanks for sharing.
>  
> Mac 
>  --
>  --
>  
> -Original Message- 
> From: curt george 
> Sent: Jan 15, 2014 6:14 PM 
> To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
> Subject: Re: finishing 
>  
> Hello Bob
>  
> I am a Shellac junkie when it come to finishing , a 1 cut base coat of 
> shellac is a Great way to blend the different woods. Alcohol dyes are 
> Awesome and easy to use,to bring out the grain and make it realy POP out 
> ! , but if you want to blend different woods into one uniformed looking 
> piece, Shellac and pigment stains are the safest way to do that.  For 
> antiquing or making a project look old, I've even used spray paint and 
> pigment stains together to make a fake piñata and or hid mistakes like 
> woodfiller that is slightly off color form the original wood.
>  
> I've used a lot of different tricks over the years, some with good 
> results, and others that did not work so well. but on the good side, I now 
> know what dose not work as well as what has worked well for me over the 
> years.
>  
> As  a matter of Fact I just picked up a ageing wood raspy that sounds like 
> it should workout well, (but I&

Re: finishing

2014-01-15 Thread BOB

Thanks for the interest I also like most things about woodworking I tend to 
lean towards old timey methods hand planes, dividers, Fibonacci gauges, 
hambridge progression , whole number ratio's, shooting boards I could go on 
for a long time. There is a lot of almost lost knowledge that could still 
serve us today it blows me away when I look at museum pieces that were made 
in the 1800's from people who could not read or write it's amazing and they 
were not hobbyist, time was money then as it is now. The rough cut episode 
is on his  web site under project video's the third one is bombe secretary 
82 shows the last one talks about the finish there are many more but that 
one got me started I like how he uses his hand tools and power tools 
together for the best results. As far as my finish it is mostly what I 
learned from curt first I melt bee's wax and mix it with mineral oil let it 
dry then shellac to seal it then an oil blend of 1/3 tung oil linseed oil 
and varnish I thought the toner should be added after the shellac where 
needed then shellacked again before the oil, That is why I was going to shy 
away from alcohol dye and use the artist paint with the japan drier instead 
thanks again for the interest Bob

On Wednesday, January 15, 2014 6:14:54 PM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:
>
>  
> Hello Bob
> I am a Shellac junkie when it come to finishing , a 1 cut base coat of 
> shellac is a Great way to blend the different woods. Alcohol dyes are 
> Awesome and easy to use,to bring out the grain and make it realy POP out 
> ! , but if you want to blend different woods into one uniformed looking 
> piece, Shellac and pigment stains are the safest way to do that.  For 
> antiquing or making a project look old, I've even used spray paint and 
> pigment stains together to make a fake piñata and or hid mistakes like 
> woodfiller that is slightly off color form the original wood.
> I've used a lot of different tricks over the years, some with good 
> results, and others that did not work so well. but on the good side, I now 
> know what dose not work as well as what has worked well for me over the 
> years.
> As  a matter of Fact I just picked up a ageing wood raspy that sounds like 
> it should workout well, (but I've not tried it yet.) 
>  
> 6 black tea bags.in 3 cups of water,Boil down to 1/2 cup then add 1/2 cup 
> of Apple cider vinegar. 1 cups of White Vinegar, 1 fine steel-wool pad, 
> WAIT 48 hours before using.
> Bob if you have any neat tricks on finishing, Please let me know what they 
> are. 
>  
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message - 
> *From:* BOB  
> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 15, 2014 4:26 PM
> *Subject:* finishing
>
> this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been 
> doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain 
> directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he 
> made a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood 
> look like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be 
> better than the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway 
> the topic could be long so I was wondering how much interest there was 
> before starting Bob 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
> .
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

finishing

2014-01-15 Thread BOB

this is an off topic so I'm asking before going into it much. I have been 
doing balusters and some look bad after finishing with the different grain 
directions and wood tones after watching an episode of rough cut where he 
made a secretary a toner was used to help make the different pieces of wood 
look like one. I think that the artist paints with japan drier would be 
better than the alcohol dyes only because of the shellac over coat, anyway 
the topic could be long so I was wondering how much interest there was 
before starting Bob 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: designing

2013-08-06 Thread BOB

Hi Mike and Cole thank you for responding, I don't have issues with 
material thicknesses I don't get that detailed and I try to stay away from 
technology somewhat I do cnc machining at work and have no desire for it at 
home. Woodworking is a hobby I read about how things were done in the 
1800's for example the owner of a shop would give his apprentice a board 
with a specific height and thickness and tell him to make a night stand and 
from that one stick using his sector and dividers Fibonacci gauge and other 
hand tools someone who can not read or write can make extraordinary things 
,when I visit a place like Sturbridge Mass that is a working museum of the 
period and see the woodworking there it blows me away. So that is my hobby 
trying to incorporate hand tools little by little and this sizing issue is 
the next step for me I will keep pecking away at it and if I get a break 
through I will let you know Bob   
On Monday, August 5, 2013 10:21:09 PM UTC-4, LILtwisted wrote:
>
>  I use a graphics program called Corel Draw.  I enlarge the drawing to 
> the size I want and use a measuring tool to see what it did to 
> everything.   It is all done on screen so there is no waste of paper.  In 
> the example of a 36" table reduced to 34" not using a computer.  Take 34 
> divided by 36 and you will get .944 so every measurement you pull from 
> the real piece you multiply by .944 so a 12" piece would be 11.328 and 60 
> would be 56.64  etc.  take what you have and figure what you want.  Then 
> use the multiplier to work out all the sizes.  I know, they said you 
> would use math all through your life and I guess they were right.  Just 
> don't admit it!
>
> Mike
>
>
>  On 8/5/2013 9:00 PM, BOB wrote:
>  
> hi Curt thank you for replying I am doing what you suggested already and 
> it does work just seems cumbersome I thought there might be another way. I 
> don't participate in the group as much as I would like to because I don't 
> have much of anything worth talking about.One thing that I miss spoke about 
> was that I am not using the Fibonacci gauge for proportioning because I am 
> trying to duplicate what is already there in the picture but using it as a 
> way to scale up the picture to something useful but when I do that it still 
> is not to any set scale that I can get info from but again not a big deal 
> just trying to contribute thanks again bob
> On Sunday, August 4, 2013 4:43:48 PM UTC-4, Curtis wrote: 
>>
>>  Hello Bob
>> I hope I don't mess this one for you,It not easy to describe. but What 
>> I've done in the past, is to take a picture and put it on to a piece of 
>> paper, and then draw all the transitions' points from the picture onto the 
>> paper  (corners, riser, junction points...) so that you see all the points 
>> of the picture where everything is in according to all the other parts, By 
>> using  a architects ruler with the scales on it. you can figure if point A 
>> is to point B then ...  If you don't have a scale that you want, then all 
>> you need to do it make one. You know that your table height should be 
>> 34"-36"(for an example.) so you choose the measurement and give that to 
>> point A and everything follows on after that. Your fibonacci gauge should 
>> help keep everything in proper perspectives of what look right. There is a 
>> little guess work but with a little time I'm sure you can get a pretty good 
>> print made up.
>> I wish you luck.
>>  
>> I hope this helps, perhaps someone out there can explain to you better. 
>> Its been a long time since I've done drafting, ;-)
>>  
>> Take care.
>> C.A.G.
>>  
>>  
>> - Original Message - 
>>
>> *From:* BOB 
>> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 04, 2013 2:41 PM
>> *Subject:* designing
>>
>>  I've been using the golden ratio with my fibonacci gauge and wooden 
>> sector now for about a year and find it very useful. The next step that I 
>> would like to take is to take a picture of say a table with no dimensions 
>> on it and drawing it to a dimension that I want with the same proportions. 
>> I know how to use my dividers and sector to make things 5/4 the size of the 
>> original for example but that isn't enough I can't make the top 4' long 
>> from a picture and then figure the rest out from there. Hope that makes 
>> sense I'm also trying to do this without autocad or other such things any 
>> advice would be appreciated Bob -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Legacy Ornamental

Re: designing

2013-08-05 Thread BOB

hi Curt thank you for replying I am doing what you suggested already and it 
does work just seems cumbersome I thought there might be another way. I 
don't participate in the group as much as I would like to because I don't 
have much of anything worth talking about.One thing that I miss spoke about 
was that I am not using the Fibonacci gauge for proportioning because I am 
trying to duplicate what is already there in the picture but using it as a 
way to scale up the picture to something useful but when I do that it still 
is not to any set scale that I can get info from but again not a big deal 
just trying to contribute thanks again bob
On Sunday, August 4, 2013 4:43:48 PM UTC-4, Curtis wrote:
>
>  Hello Bob
> I hope I don't mess this one for you,It not easy to describe. but What 
> I've done in the past, is to take a picture and put it on to a piece of 
> paper, and then draw all the transitions' points from the picture onto the 
> paper  (corners, riser, junction points...) so that you see all the points 
> of the picture where everything is in according to all the other parts, By 
> using  a architects ruler with the scales on it. you can figure if point A 
> is to point B then ...  If you don't have a scale that you want, then all 
> you need to do it make one. You know that your table height should be 
> 34"-36"(for an example.) so you choose the measurement and give that to 
> point A and everything follows on after that. Your fibonacci gauge should 
> help keep everything in proper perspectives of what look right. There is a 
> little guess work but with a little time I'm sure you can get a pretty good 
> print made up.
> I wish you luck.
>  
> I hope this helps, perhaps someone out there can explain to you better. 
> Its been a long time since I've done drafting, ;-)
>  
> Take care.
> C.A.G.
>  
>  
> - Original Message - 
>
> *From:* BOB  
> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 04, 2013 2:41 PM
> *Subject:* designing
>
> I've been using the golden ratio with my fibonacci gauge and wooden sector 
> now for about a year and find it very useful. The next step that I would 
> like to take is to take a picture of say a table with no dimensions on it 
> and drawing it to a dimension that I want with the same proportions. I know 
> how to use my dividers and sector to make things 5/4 the size of the 
> original for example but that isn't enough I can't make the top 4' long 
> from a picture and then figure the rest out from there. Hope that makes 
> sense I'm also trying to do this without autocad or other such things any 
> advice would be appreciated Bob 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> .
> To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
> .
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>  
>  
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

designing

2013-08-04 Thread BOB

I've been using the golden ratio with my fibonacci gauge and wooden sector 
now for about a year and find it very useful. The next step that I would 
like to take is to take a picture of say a table with no dimensions on it 
and drawing it to a dimension that I want with the same proportions. I know 
how to use my dividers and sector to make things 5/4 the size of the 
original for example but that isn't enough I can't make the top 4' long 
from a picture and then figure the rest out from there. Hope that makes 
sense I'm also trying to do this without autocad or other such things any 
advice would be appreciated Bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: Finishing Help Needed

2013-03-14 Thread BOB

I like using the bee's wax formula from captain eddie that curt showed me 
last year I don't have the exact formula on me but should be in the 
archieves I put it on first then shellaced it then used the oil blend to 
finish it .Originally I had concerns that the bee's wax would hinder 
adhesion I used it on a stair case treads and spindles last year with no 
problems yet the only deviation was I used a little less wax and heated it 
up in a poperie warmer until it was fully liquified spred it on thin to 
minimize build up i like the brown tint it has not orange this isn't the 
original purpose for it but fills in all the tear out and router marks 
really well Bob
On Friday, March 8, 2013 8:58:14 PM UTC-5, Brandon Khoury wrote:
>
> Hey everyone, I'm coming to the end of my table project and need some help 
> with stain. First, let me say that I THINK the wood I used to build the 
> table is really old quarter sawn oak. It was from a cabinet that was in my 
> basement where my shop is now. I took it apart to use on projects like 
> this. I have treated the entire table with a wood conditioner because my 
> test stains were blotchy and awful. The treated tests accept the stain much 
> more evenly. I am currently at the point of sanding the entire piece before 
> I apply the first layer of stain. My problem is that I have several pieces 
> of embossed egg and dart detail molding, framing the side and back rails. 
> Its the small premade stuff you can find at hobby lobby or Michaels. I 
> think it is steamed and pressed to imprint the wood with the pattern. I 
> have tested the stain on conditioned and non-conditioned scraps (neither 
> were sanded after conditioning). Neither test seems to accept the stain 
> very well and both have a silvery sheen to them. However, I have not 
> conditioned and sanded the molding before test staining. Does anyone have a 
> suggestion or tip to help get this stuff to accept the stain so it more 
> closely matches the rest of the table? 
>
> Thanks, 
> Brandon

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: Discussion session with Legacy

2013-01-21 Thread BOB

i am very interested in anything with the manual machines ,working a 12 
hour swing shift i would most likely watch the recording if made available 
bob
On Monday, January 21, 2013 6:49:23 PM UTC-5, Brandon Khoury wrote:
>
> Definitely interested. Just depends on timing.
>
> Brandon
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: Rail lubricant

2013-01-15 Thread BOB

Hey Curt I did not shim the carriage but the rail on the lead screw side . 
The rail was a little twisty, on my 1200 the plastic slide that is screwed 
to the carriage sort of looks like a top hat well the rim of the hat would 
get sticky in the twisty rail. The red short pieces that are between the 
two outer rails have a nub in the center to locate them on the rails that 
they support I put an .008" shim on one side to straighten the rail out it 
made a huge difference. I never understood from the beginning why the 
machine needed that much lubrication when the plastic slides were made from 
that oil impregnated slippery stuff to begin with at least for me my 
dyna-glyde days are over. I hope my explaination makes sense I  finally 
 can put pictures on the internet but in this case there is no good way to 
do it bob
On Tuesday, January 8, 2013 7:58:51 PM UTC-5, Brandon Khoury wrote:
>
> I haven't had the opportunity to try Dynaglide, but I have a couple 
> questions. How long does an application usually last? I know this largely 
> depends on frequency of use, but I'm just looking for a ballpark of how 
> long a can would last. Also, from what I understand, the lubricant can be 
> used on cutting blades and router bits. Does this ever effect the finishing 
> of the wood?
>  
> I'm asking because I tried out a product I have access to at work. It is 
> silicone based, so I don't use it on any surfaces that will come in contact 
> with the wood, or on the cutting blades. It did, however, work really well 
> on the rails. I applied a coat a few weeks ago and I can still see a 
> noticeable improvement with the resistence of the sled. I really need to 
> tweak the rails to make sure they are parallel and square. The ingredients 
> of the product are below. The container doesn't list out the proportions, 
> but they are listed in order from the bottle. I'd like to know if anyone 
> sees a potential problem with applying this lubricant to the rails.
>  
>  
> Isopropyl Alcohol
> Water
> Cyclomethicone
> Dimethicone
> Dimethicone Copolyol
>  
> Thanks,
> Brandon
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: Rail lubricant

2013-01-15 Thread BOB

i always thought my 1200 worked a little stiff . Dynaglide would work for 
awhile but not really my final solution was to shim one side of the rail, 
it made a huge difference haven't used dyna-glide for months bob
On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 2:54:05 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
>  Hi Brandon, 
>  
> Magnate.net carries Dynaglide as well as a few other online vendors.  I 
> would not consider anything else.  A can will last a year or more if your 
> just using it on the legacy.  When you find out how great it is around the 
> shop it might go faster. :-)  
>  
> The silicon will not hurt either the aluminum or the Delrin bushings.  It 
> might effect the felt wiper a little after a long time of exposure.  You 
> are right about the silicon ruining a wood finish.   Silicon wipes off 
> surfaces very easily.  Even the dry types have this problem.  There is a 
> chance of cross contamination coming from your fingers touching the parts 
> that have been sprayed and handling your wood.
>  
> Cleaning with Dynaglide will not effect the finish at all.  I don't use 
> dynaglide often to clean my bits, but it's effective with the task.  I 
> mostly use mineral spirits to clean my bits because it's cheap and I always 
> have some in the shop.  Here's a funny story, I lost patience and common 
> sense one night cutting maple.  I had a really dirty and dull carbide blade 
> in my tablesaw and I was burning my maple stock really bad.  I just 
> needed a few more feet of the material and I took my can and hosed down the 
> blade.  The smoking went away long enough to get the task done.  Once my 
> head cooled down, I cleaned the blade with dynaglide and a rag and that 
> made me much more of a believer of how much effect simply cleaning carbide 
> tools improve the ability to cut wood. 
>  
> I once read where Curt cleans and hones his bits after each use.  I 
> thought that was a waste of time, but the waste of time is actually in when 
> you need a clean cut and your tool is not ready.  The waste of time is in 
> fixing a burned edge on wood or increased chatter marks from the cutting 
> edge. 
>  
> I will finally add this, with cleaning, there is no risk to your cutting 
> edge.  Improper sharpening and honing can have a very negative effect.  It 
> takes practice and understanding of what you are doing to get it right.  
> I'm not going to go into a lecture on honing carbide because of the 
> complexities and I'm not an expert.   
>  
> -Tim
>  
>  
> - Original Message - 
>
> *From:* Brandon Khoury  
> *To:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 08, 2013 4:58 PM
> *Subject:* Rail lubricant
>
> I haven't had the opportunity to try Dynaglide, but I have a couple 
> questions. How long does an application usually last? I know this largely 
> depends on frequency of use, but I'm just looking for a ballpark of how 
> long a can would last. Also, from what I understand, the lubricant can be 
> used on cutting blades and router bits. Does this ever effect the finishing 
> of the wood?
>  
> I'm asking because I tried out a product I have access to at work. It is 
> silicone based, so I don't use it on any surfaces that will come in contact 
> with the wood, or on the cutting blades. It did, however, work really well 
> on the rails. I applied a coat a few weeks ago and I can still see a 
> noticeable improvement with the resistence of the sled. I really need to 
> tweak the rails to make sure they are parallel and square. The ingredients 
> of the product are below. The container doesn't list out the proportions, 
> but they are listed in order from the bottle. I'd like to know if anyone 
> sees a potential problem with applying this lubricant to the rails.
>  
>  
> Isopropyl Alcohol
> Water
> Cyclomethicone
> Dimethicone
> Dimethicone Copolyol
>  
> Thanks,
> Brandon
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com
> .
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com .
> Visit this group at 
> http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>  
>  
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: the golden ratio

2012-06-10 Thread BOB

hey curt i would like to know the technique used to have rounded
corners on your bench with the sides flush i am considering cabinets
with this detail but can not think of a structurally strong way to do
it bob

On Jun 8, 10:13 pm, Dexter Bland  wrote:
> Curt,
> I really like how you incorporated the turnings into the kitchen
> benches. It serves as a very practical and pretty way of making a
> sharp corner into something more safe and very attractive. That is
> what I try to do is to make something look good but to be very
> functional in the process. These rules discussed help you determine
> what will make something pleasing to the eye as well as functional.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: the golden ratio

2012-06-07 Thread BOB

to me for those that say they are dumb and don't use or need it i say
you are talented and have a better eye for style than i have i will
make something thinking it looks good then the next day i wonder what
i was thinking about the golden ratio seems to be just a tool for
those who need it i was wondering if it was a practical tool worth the
effort to learn more about  bob

On Jun 7, 4:32 pm, "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
wrote:
> When you do reply to this as a subject, let's divide the 3 systems up
> into 3 threads so they can be referenced at a later date as well.
>
> On 6/7/2012 2:22 PM, mwfos...@earthlink.net wrote:> OK Tim & others,
> > I plead "ignorance" to several of the terms being bantered about
> > regarding proportions in design.  If I am the only one in the Group -
> > then don't worry.  However, if there are others that do not know of or
> > understand Fibonacci, the Golden Ratio, Hambidge Progression, etc.,
> > then can someone please point us to simple "woodworkers' explanations"
> > versus the high-level mathematician's definitions I get with Bing &
> > Google.
> > Thanks.
>
> >     -Original Message-
> >     From: Gary Moshofsky
> >     Sent: Jun 7, 2012 2:20 PM
> >     To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >     Subject: RE: the golden ratio
>
> >     Actually the Hambidge progression is perfect for making a pleasing
> >     set of diminishing drawer heights as you go up the case. The
> >     shakers used it in most of their dresser designs.
>
> >     
> >     *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >     [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of
> >     *Donald Pearce
> >     *Sent:* Thursday, June 07, 2012 5:18 AM
> >     *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >     *Subject:* RE: the golden ratio
>
> >     If you are building a dresser with alot of drawers , it won't look
> >     right if you don't follow the golden rule. So some times it is
> >     necessary.
>
> >     
> >     To: curtgeo...@wowway.com; legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >     From: coleandrew...@gmail.com
> >     Subject: Re: the golden ratio
> >     Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2012 06:56:38 -0400
>
> >     I personnally don't get much shoptime, so learning to draw what I
> >     want or see is important.
>
> >     Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> >     - Reply message -
> >     From: "curt george" 
> >     Date: Thu, Jun 7, 2012 3:59 am
> >     Subject: the golden ratio
> >     To: 
>
> >     Dumb? No way! Just different way to get to the same place.That's
> >     all Bill.
> >     Rule No. 2 on Murphy's law of combat, States, If its Dumb, but
> >     works, then
> >     it Ain't Dumb.
> >     Have a great day.
> >     C.A.G.
> >     - Original Message -
> >     From: "Bill Bulkeley" 
> >     To: 
> >     Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 9:20 PM
> >     Subject: Re: the golden ratio
>
> >     > wow I guess I'm the dumb one of the group I don't use any of
> >     that stuff I
> >     > just visualize something in my head and then go try and  make it
> >     > till it looks right
>
> >     > Bill
>
> >     > - Original Message -
> >     > From: "curt george" 
> >     > To: 
> >     > Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2012 10:58 AM
> >     > Subject: Re: the golden ratio
>
> >     >> Hello Everyone.
> >     >> I understand the Golden ratio and design concepts. but I find
> >     it easer to
> >     >> copy others ideas and add details onto different pieces that I
> >     make.
> >     >> I find a great wealth of info. and concepts,on furniture and
> >     >> architectural elements have been already made by some un-known
> >     artist in
> >     >> the past, I find churches and old  public buildings to have an
> >     abundance
> >     >> of details that are worth copying for any original work that I
> >     end up
> >     >> making.
> >     >> I find that about 1/2 of my work that I make, are for other
> >     people, and
> >     >> they normally end up telling me what they want.
>
> >     >> I went out to a Yard sale last weekend, and

the golden ratio

2012-06-06 Thread BOB

the biggest setback that the legacy has for me is my own imagination
and creativity i am curious to know if anyone uses the golden ratio in
their designing process or is it not all that practical  bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Legacy's Early Rotary Table

2012-06-06 Thread BOB

in my opinion the rotary table is one of those accessories that you
are better of to buy i think that you could do more with a factory one
bob

On Jun 4, 9:25 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> The images come from a video tape filmed in October of 1997 featuring the 
> capabilities of the Model 500.  It's something that could be used today with 
> some caution.
>
> The video shows how a home made rotary table can be made by cutting a piece 
> round and installing a steel dowel pin in the center.  Multiple holes are 
> drilled so you can mount the work to this round plate.  This picture shows 
> the stock being mounted to the base.  Here's the first picture.
>
> That plate sits on another home made table that was used for the model 500.  
> That model did not have an adjustable bed.  Notice the hole drilled for the 
> dowel pin in the center and  two large holes.  Here's image number two.
>
> The plate is installed and using your hands to turn the stock in a clockwise 
> rotation, you are able to turn things round and add details.  The x-axis 
> screw is used to hold the router in place (diameter of the work) and the 
> y-axis is locked in the center.  Please see images three and four.
>
> You might be still wondering about the two large holes.  They where used to 
> clamp the stock in place for indexing.  There was no mention of how to get 
> the indexes right.  Image five.
>
> I don't know if this table was ever shown as a plan to build.  It's not in 
> the manuals that I have seen.  I believe Legacy's official rotary table was 
> introduced with the model 1000EX which would be in 2000 so the idea might 
> have been very short lived.
>
> Ideally anyone can take this idea and create their own rotary table.  Because 
> your hands are being used to drive the stock I would caution new owner to get 
> the feel of how this device works and take lots of light cuts.  I've cut 
> hundreds of circles out on a router table jig so I can say it's no big deal 
> but there's a potential for the piece to catch and start running or spinning 
> on it's own.
>
> If you build this, use common sense!  Consider this information entertainment 
> and not necessarily a recommendation.  The tool was in the hands of a 
> professional at the time of the demonstration.  Your mileage may vary!  Do 
> you all get my drift?  If you do make it, let us know how it works out.
>
> Final note, this is really not that much different from the circle cutting 
> center Legacy use to sell.  That version used a much larger base plate that 
> really takes any risk out of the operation.  If you are not familiar with the 
> circle cutting center please ask questions.
>
> -Tim
>
>  model_500_rotary_table_1.jpg
> 51KViewDownload
>
>  model_500_rotary_table_2.jpg
> 46KViewDownload
>
>  model_500_rotary_table_3.jpg
> 43KViewDownload
>
>  model_500_rotary_table_4.jpg
> 53KViewDownload
>
>  model_500_rotary_table_5.jpg
> 66KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Fw: Legacy magizine on file

2012-01-22 Thread BOB

 about honing router bits i am sure that everyone knows but it was
tough for me to hone the whole surface especially close to the inside
edge the hone would hit on the side of the shaft and not do the entire
surface you could see it in the quality of the cut a new harbor
freight store opened up by me and i found diamond needle files there
that did the trick under 10 dollars bob

On Jan 22, 9:12 am, SteveEJ  wrote:
> Thanks Bill!
>   I just converted them to PDF's and saved them to my library. After
> Church I will be printing and laminating them so they will be safe in
> my shop!
>
> Steve
>
> On Jan 21, 6:16 pm, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
>
> > this is an old request I have made many times before
> > please any old legacy pages or magazine articles or techniques
> > please scan and share them with us or me on my ofline email if you don't
> > wish to post
> > bulke...@mmnet.com.au
>
> > it will benefit us all
> >  here is an example of some I have found searching the net which may or may
> > not be in the mags but i keep everything i find
>
> > Bill
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "curt george" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 10:17 AM
> > Subject: Re: Fw: Legacy magizine on file
>
> > > Hello Begat
> > > I am glad to hear that you liked the articles, Yes I too think that they
> > > were something special.(something worth saving and sharing with others.)
>
> > > About sharpening router bits. Between you and I, that's something for a
> > > pro. Instead of sharpening, think of the term,honing.
> > > I hone all my bits after I use them every time, With a small diamond
> > > stone, 20-50 strokes per flat will keep the router bits
> > > supper sharp for many years of use.
> > > And I too like to look at the pictures. ;-)
> > > Have a good night.
> > > C.A.G.
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: "Begat" 
> > > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 4:20 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Fw: Legacy magizine on file
>
> > > Curt,
>
> > > I really enjoyed the magazines as well.  I think they are great.  And
> > > I did learn things from them.  For instance, I had been wondering
> > > about sharpening bits.
>
> > > And it was good to see some of the older machines.  Great post.
>
> > > Begat
>
> > > On Jan 21, 4:12 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> > >> You are Welcome Steve.
> > >> I did not scan the magazines my self a member here did (Mike Pung.) But I
> > >> did save the scans and am only to happy to share the wealth. There is a
> > >> Vol. 7 that I own, as soon as I can I plan to scan that magazine as
> > >> well.(but cant at this moment, my scanner is not working.) I believe it
> > >> was the printing of the mag. that Legacy made, it was printed in sep.
> > >> 2005. if there was an vol 8 I do not own it.
>
> > >> Tim do you have the one on file? (he just might, Steve, this topic has
> > >> come up before.)
>
> > >> Anyhow... If I have not said it before, Welcome the group Steve, If you
> > >> have any question or ideas, Please feel free to ask. Also We (Me or
> > >> should I say I.) would love to see anything that you make. There is a
> > >> small learning curve that needs to be understood,when it come to the O.R.
> > >> mill. And if you share your information with us, then everyone can learn
> > >> from the experience.
>
> > >> More to come latter.
>
> > >> Have a great day.
>
> > >> C.A.G.
>
> > >> - Original Message -
> > >> From: Steven Jacobs
> > >> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > >> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 11:25 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: Fw: Legacy magizine on file
>
> > >> Thanks Curt. I am downloading them now!
>
> > >> Steve
>
> > >> On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 3:08 AM, curt george 
> > >> wrote:
>
> > >> Here are the links for the mag. I hope this helps.
> > >> in vol.6 you can see the 2000 as well as the molding machine.
>
> > >> C.A.G.
> > >> - Original Message -
> > >> From: curt george
> > >> Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 12:58 PM
> > >> Subject: Legacy magizine on file
>
> > >>http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol1.pdf
> > >>http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol2.pdf
&g

Re: Just playing around

2011-12-29 Thread BOB

hey curt nice job as always i think that i missed some of the previous
conversations about the advantages between front or rear i have only
used the template follower a few  times and the mistakes were all mine
not the machines bob

On Dec 28, 7:48 pm, "stormin...@snet.net"  wrote:
> Great Job Curt!
>
> Norm

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Doing Dowels on the Ornamental Mill

2011-10-22 Thread BOB

i have also made dovetail joints on my 1200 using the template
follower it was to much work and i ended up getting a separate system
from mlcs bob

On Oct 23, 12:14 am, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> legacy mills are good for doweling, I have even done a dovetail joint on the 
> legacy it was on the revo model which I believe is a more stable with less 
> slop I used a dial indicator for accurate saddle movement I must try this on 
> the 900 one day to see if its possible
>
> Bill
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: CURTIS GEORGE
>   To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 8:09 AM
>   Subject: Re: Doing Dowels on the Ornamental Mill
>
>   Hello Begat
>
>   Yours is not a new topic, but one that has not come up in a very long time.
>   Not a lot of people use dowels much any more, but The Legacy is a very good 
> platform for this job.
>   Ive not only used the Legacy to dowel boards together, but to also use the 
> machine to set dowells in the flats of the boards to make book shelfs ends, 
> as well as the adjustable shelf  (shelf brackets/ holes for the pins ) them  
> self.
>
>   thanks for bringing up this topic, We all forget what the legacy can do, 
> all to often. simple things are all to easy to forget.
>
>   Good call Begat! Thank for the reminder.
>
>   C.A.G.
>   - Original Message -
>   From: begatbrown 
>   To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>   Sent: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 17:48:24 -0400 (EDT)
>   Subject: Doing Dowels on the Ornamental Mill
>
>   Hello All,
>
>   The other day I was fooling around with my 900 and discovered that if
>   I put the Legacy clamps from the horizontal vice on the back top rail,
>   I could easily get the edge of a board flat against it to do doweling
>   for a table top.  Worked like a charm.  I did the same on my arty, but
>   the depth of the framework limited me to 7 inch wide boards.  While I
>   can program the Arty to do them faster, I can do 11 inch wide boards
>   on the 900.  I don't anticipate any need to do wider boards.
>
>   Others have probably thought of this before, but I thought I'd post it
>   just in case.
>
>   Begat
>
>   --
>   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>   To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>   For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
>   No virus found in this message.
>   Checked by AVG -www.avg.com
>   Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2092/4568 - Release Date: 10/22/11
>
>   --
>   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>   To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>   For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: look

2011-10-12 Thread BOB

i often thought about putting shellac on my mdf table top thinking it
would protect the surface from the hot glue but was afraid that it
would not stick to it but if it sticks to formica i think i might try
it bob

On Oct 6, 4:01 am, CURTIS   GEORGEwrote:
> Hay Bill!
>
> That's Kool ! Someone else bought one of those revo units form Legacy. ;-) 
> (Just kidding)
>
> That article is a good one, We need to get up and start talking again about 
> different projects with-in the group again.
>
> It is nice to see article's like this one. Perhaps it will be the catalyst 
> that will get everyone going again. As for my self, My hours at work have 
> been increased to 10 hr, days and Im working 7 days a week until we replace a 
> retired co worker, or until the money runs out of the project list that need 
> to be done. (ether way, I feel That I need to take what is offered now before 
> its all gone. the extra money is needed to get the bills paid off. I already 
> have 20 hr of OT this pay period.)
>
> WORK HARD- Play Hard! is the Moto Right?  I know that Play time will happen 
> soon. And I will be back in the shop again soon./
>
> Take care.
>
> and again thanks Bill for that article , those jobs all look like thay would 
> be fun to play with. ;-)
>
> Have a great day!
>
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bill Bulkeley " < bulkeley @ mmnet .com. au >
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@ googlegroups .com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 7:18:58 PM
> Subject: look
>
> http :// www . extremehowto .com/ xh /article.asp?article_id=60614
>
> I found this serching the net so I thoughrt I would pass it on to the group
> some one might like it
>
> Bill
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@ googlegroups 
> .com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+ 
> unsubscribe @ googlegroups .com.
> For more options, visit this group at http ://groups. google 
> .com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills? hl =en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Carving Flat Work - Template Work

2011-07-21 Thread BOB

this post really took off good to see responding to what mike was
suggesting to me about turning the tread i thought of it but i have
bad luck when i try working under the outer rails with a thin piece
way to much vibration bob

On Jul 21, 9:19 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Perfect, I get it now.  Thanks for taking the time to do that!
>
> -Tim

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Carving Flat Work - Template Work

2011-07-21 Thread BOB

that is exactly what i was shooting for except the sides had a bigger
border  for the rails (11/2" in from baluster)  i did not have a place
for the bit to run out i thought that the border would do any cleanup
that was needed the template was a big square piece of mdf that had a
diagonal 1/8 cut in it for the follower letting the router move
diagonally i used the older template follower so that i could use 3/4
mdf used a v-groove cutter set shallow did not foresee any problems
but it just did not work  consistently bob

On Jul 21, 4:44 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> So the pattern you where going for was like this?  Did you have a place for 
> the router bit to run out or where you trying to keep inside the border? That 
> would be really tough to do I would think.
>
> I'm trying to follow your description for the follower.   Was the router 
> moving diagonally across the work ( both x and y axis in motion during the 
> cut)?  That's something I've wanted to try for a while for another style of 
> cut.
>
> -Tim
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 12:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Carving Flat Work - Template Work
>
> hey tim when i made my stair tread last spring i tried making a
> diamond pattern in the middle of the tread about 11/2" in from all
> four edges with a groove around the whole outside of it sounded easy
> in the beginning cut a 45 in a piece of mdf 1/8 wide for the follower
> flip it to go in both directions move it in x and keep on going i made
> three of them and each time i would be almost done with it and
> something would happen to put a wiggle in it although i did not call
> it a wiggle at the time and finally gave up and focused on making
> nicer balusters i don't know what went wrong i decided that it just
> wasn't the legacy's strongest point
>
>
>
>  cross_pattern.jpg
> 44KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Carving Flat Work - Template Work

2011-07-21 Thread BOB

hey tim when i made my stair tread last spring i tried making a
diamond pattern in the middle of the tread about 11/2" in from all
four edges with a groove around the whole outside of it sounded easy
in the beginning cut a 45 in a piece of mdf 1/8 wide for the follower
flip it to go in both directions move it in x and keep on going i made
three of them and each time i would be almost done with it and
something would happen to put a wiggle in it although i did not call
it a wiggle at the time and finally gave up and focused on making
nicer balusters i don't know what went wrong i decided that it just
wasn't the legacy's strongest point i would also like to take time to
thank everyone for the post that curt started on tear out and the
finishes sanding waxes shellac and oil blends i kidd you not it was
almost like a religious revelation i struggled for years with finishes
with little success and when i found something they would go out of
business but now thanks to you all i have taken the next big step in
woodworking it blows me away at how easy it is once you know bob

On Jul 21, 2:56 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> Is anyone taking advantage of the template feature for carving details into 
> flat work with their Legacy?  I would like to hear about your experience or 
> even better see some examples.  I think there is a lot of potential patterns 
> that can be carved using v bits, core box bits and even the small roping bit. 
>  Using the template system you can easily create repeating patterns in a 
> straight line.   If you have tried this and had a problem let's talk about it.
>
> Here's an example of a sine wave template that I think would work.
>
> Line 1. shows a sine wave.
> Line 2. shows line 1 moved on the y axis of the legacy by a repeating amount. 
>  This is as simple as moving the brass follower the exact amount every time.
> Line 3. shows line one being shifted in the y axis the same amount using the 
> same method but the pattern is being shifted in the x direction the same 
> amount as the y-axis.  
> Line 4. shows the same concept but now the line are touching each other in a 
> much tighter more pleasing pattern is formed.
> Line 5. shows line 1 where the x axis of the pattern is shifted half the 
> width of the peaks of the sine wave and the y-axis has not changed.  
> Line 6. shows line 1 where the x axis pattern is shifted a third of the width 
> of the peaks to create another more interesting and pleasing pattern.  
>
> Using line 4's example a round lid could be made very interesting using the 
> tip of an engraving v bit.
>
> Speaking of simple patterns, has anyone taken the ball from this post and ran 
> with it?  
> http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/msg/115172de9e...or 
> even this 
> one?http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/msg/b24a9e4585...
>
> -Tim
>
>  straight_line_patterns.jpg
> 101KViewDownload
>
>  box_sine_example.jpg
> 57KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: How would you do this?

2011-06-06 Thread BOB

sorry that it took awhile it is the 12 hour swing shift thing this may
not be what you mean but is the first thing that i thought of bob
http://woodgears.ca/pantograph/violin_scroll.html

On Jun 3, 5:07 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> Can you send me the link.
> I would like to see what was done.
>
> Thank you.
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 3:36 PM
> Subject: Re: How would you do this?
>
> on the woodworking for engineers website he made the end piece for a
> violin that has that type of end on it it may be easier to make his
> machine than making it on the legacy bob
>
> On May 30, 3:44 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> > Hello everyone.
> > I just had a gentleman come over and ask me if I could make a part for an
> > Indian musical instrument.
> > there are realy are two parts, both are on the small side, 1 1/2" -1 3/4"
> > wide.and a couple inches long. both parts are suppose to look like a
> > un-rolled scroll.
> > One curly-queue at each end.
>
> > I would like to know if you were going to take this job, how would you
> > make the scrolls? I have some ideas,but This look is one that I've not
> > done before.
> > Any and all suggestions are welcome, as always.
>
> > C.A.G.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: How would you do this?

2011-06-03 Thread BOB

on the woodworking for engineers website he made the end piece for a
violin that has that type of end on it it may be easier to make his
machine than making it on the legacy bob

On May 30, 3:44 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> Hello everyone.
> I just had a gentleman come over and ask me if I could make a part for an 
> Indian musical instrument.
> there are realy are two parts, both are on the small side, 1 1/2" -1 3/4" 
> wide.and a couple inches long. both parts are suppose to look like a 
> un-rolled scroll.
> One curly-queue at each end.
>
> I would like to know if you were going to take this job, how would you make 
> the scrolls? I have some ideas,but This look is one that I've not done before.
> Any and all suggestions are welcome, as always.
>
> C.A.G.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Tair-out and finishing

2011-05-21 Thread BOB

this is another thing that i am unsure of on one hand we can make a
wax sanding lube before finishing but should use dewaxed shellac so
that the finish will stick better i was wondering if the difference is
the type of wax beeswax my be ok under a finish? bob

On May 21, 6:07 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> Hello Greg
> Very Nice! the buffing system is a good way to get a fine finish on this
> project. for candle stick holders and any small piece of furniture this type
> of finishing is More than good enough. ware and tare is more for larger or
> well used idioms where lots of contact and the elements will effect the
> project.
> Carnauba wax wares well and , in my humble opinion a superb finish for your
> project.Good job!
>
> Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your project with us.
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 4:29 AM
> Subject: Re: Tair-out and finishing
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I made my first legacy project ever a few months ago.  I made a barley twist
> candlestick holder and screwed up the base so I modified it from the
> instructions because I did not have any more wood to try it again.  It was
> made out of Red Heart and I was not sure what to finish it with so I just
> used the Beall Buffing system that uses Tripoli, White
> Diamond, and Carnauba Wax.  It turned out amazingly shiny and smooth but I
> am not sure how long the finish will last.  I would like to have used
> something that would penetrate into the pores of the wood to water proof it
> somewhat (possibly shellac?) before polishing it and putting the final
> polish of carnauba wax on it.  I want to make some out of pine next time.
>
> I would like to have your (the group) input on what finish to use for future
> projects.  I am going to make some hollow sprial candlestick holders, some
> rope twist and barley twist canes and walking sticks in the near future.
>
> I love using my legacy mill and I sure appreciate this group.  I learn so
> much from reading the discussions and seeing the pictures of your projects.
> Wow! What a group of talented craftsmen!  Thanks for sharing.
>
> Greg Walker
> N7BHX
> 
> Penny Stock Soaring 3000%
> Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner 
> is!http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4dd7765b1fd9265b04st02duc
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Tair-out and finishing

2011-05-19 Thread BOB

i don't know how much time you want to spend on this topic so i will
be brief i am familiar with rockler's product but after putting faith
in waterlox and bartleys and getting disappointed i am more interested
in making my own with basic ingredients that will always be easy to
find and being able to vary the ratio between oil and varnish
depending on the projects needs  i would like to know if urethane
varnish is just regular varnish or something special i guess the next
thing would be the sanding wax you use this with sand paper then
shellac it then you could put on the poly/oil finish if this is true i
can't wait to try it as always that you for the tips bob

On May 19, 8:25 am, Donald Pearce  wrote:
> Bob, I use Sam Maloof poly/oil finish on all my cherry pieces. It is easy to 
> apply and gives a natural look to the final project. Just search it on the 
> internet. I know it is available at Rockler and Amazon.   Don
>
> > Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 15:31:47 -0700
> > Subject: Re: Tair-out and finishing
> > From: bandlels...@cqservices.com
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
> > hey curt this is a topic that i really struggle with choosing the
> > right finish more than tear out i have more trouble with the fuzzies
> > that turn into tear out when you try to repair it i have milled a bad
> > section flat and glued another piece in and re-turned in the past and
> > the finishes i think it is good to come up with home made recipes in
> > my early years i used waterlox with great results but now you cannot
> > buy it in Pennsylvania after struggling for awhile i found bartley's
> > and that worked well then they went under seagrave now makes bartley
> > stains but the formula has changed and is very difficult to find so
> > anyway homemade repeatable recipes is what i would like to try next
> > one that i have heard of and bear in mind i could have heard it wrong
> > is to mix linseed oil with varnish,sellac and tung oil the percentages
> > vary depending on if you want the smooth feel of oil or durability of
> > varnish i have not tried this because it does not make sense to mix
> > alcohol base sellac with oil? another comes from a sam maloof video
> > he says 1/3 linseed oil 1/3 raw tung oil and 1/3 urethane varnish you
> > wipe it on until it is dry which i really like no dust nubs the
> > problem is no one around here has heard of urethane varnish don't know
> > if it differ from regular varnish or not so if anyone wants to tell
> > about there favorite finish i would like to here it bob
>
> > On May 13, 9:54 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> > > Hello Everyone.
>
> > > I was asked today if I knew a way of fixing some tair out on some wood 
> > > turnings a friend of mine had on his project.
>
> > > I think this could also be a good topic for the  Legacy group .
>
> > > The legacy dose have some tare out and or The spindles are not normaly a 
> > > readily prepared surfaces for finishing right off the machine.
>
> > > There are so many tricks that I have learn.that may help fix some of the 
> > > small problems that you may run into.
>
> > > I hope these ideas help? Thay are mainly geared twords turning on the 
> > > lathe. But I normaly sand and finnish on the lathe.I find that the Lathe 
> > > and the Legacy work very well together.
>
> > > So Please take this with a grain of salt. Hopefully some for this info 
> > > might be able to help you or someone else out in the future?
>
> > > SO HERE WE GO! ;-)
>
> > > As I see it there are a number of reasons why tare out happens,most come 
> > > form not having a sharp enough tools or cutting to deep on a final pass 
> > > (I had this problem a lot on the Legacy,in my early years.) Not watching 
> > > the direction of the woods grain can also be another reasion for the tair 
> > > out.
>
> > > very light  cuts will help on the final passes. if the wood is cracked or 
> > > pungie or just wild running grain like around knots there may be no way 
> > > to get around this problem but. I like to use CA glue to firm up the wood 
> > > then re-cut or sand is possible.
>
> > > Oil finishes are more forgiving if you have open grained woods. A friend 
> > > of mine likes to make his own sanding sealer, with Shellac and oil, 
> > > mixing it with the sanding dust of the wood. (sorta like French 
> > > polishing,) the sanding dust combined with the shellac and oil fill in 
> > > the open wood grain.
>
> > > I've used Plaster of Paris and spackling compound in the pa

Re: Tair-out and finishing

2011-05-18 Thread BOB

hey curt this is a topic that i really struggle with choosing the
right finish more than tear out i have more trouble with the fuzzies
that turn into tear out when you try to repair it i have milled a bad
section flat and glued another piece in and re-turned in the past and
the finishes i think it is good to come up with home made recipes in
my early years i used waterlox with great results but now you cannot
buy it in Pennsylvania after struggling for awhile i found bartley's
and that worked well then they went under seagrave now makes bartley
stains but the formula has changed and is very difficult to find so
anyway homemade repeatable recipes is what i would like to try next
one that i have heard of and bear in mind i could have heard it wrong
is to mix linseed oil with varnish,sellac and tung oil the percentages
vary depending on if you want the smooth feel of oil or durability of
varnish i have not tried this because it does not make sense to mix
alcohol base sellac with oil?  another comes from a sam maloof video
he says 1/3 linseed oil 1/3 raw tung oil and 1/3 urethane varnish you
wipe it on until it is dry which i really like no dust nubs the
problem is no one around here has heard of urethane varnish don't know
if it differ from regular varnish or not so if anyone wants to tell
about there favorite finish i would like to here it bob

On May 13, 9:54 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> Hello Everyone.
>
> I was asked today if I knew a way of fixing some tair out on some wood 
> turnings a friend of mine had on his project.
>
> I think this could also be a good topic for the  Legacy group .
>
> The legacy dose have some tare out and or The spindles are not normaly a 
> readily prepared surfaces for finishing right off the machine.
>
> There are so many tricks that I have learn.that may help fix some of the 
> small problems that you may run into.
>
> I hope these ideas help? Thay are mainly geared twords turning on the lathe. 
> But I normaly sand and finnish on the lathe.I find that the Lathe and the 
> Legacy work very well together.
>
> So Please take this with a grain of salt. Hopefully some for this info might 
> be able to help you or someone else out in the future?
>
> SO HERE WE GO! ;-)
>
> As I see it there are a number of reasons why tare out happens,most come form 
> not having a sharp enough tools or cutting to deep on a final pass (I had 
> this problem a lot on the Legacy,in my early years.) Not watching the 
> direction of the woods grain can also be another reasion for the tair out.
>
> very light  cuts will help on the final passes. if the wood is cracked or 
> pungie or just wild running grain like around knots there may be no way to 
> get around this problem but. I like to use CA glue to firm up the wood then 
> re-cut or sand is possible.
>
> Oil finishes are more forgiving if you have open grained woods. A friend of 
> mine likes to make his own sanding sealer, with Shellac and oil, mixing it 
> with the sanding dust of the wood. (sorta like French polishing,) the sanding 
> dust combined with the shellac and oil fill in the open wood grain.
>
> I've used Plaster of Paris and spackling compound in the past with good 
> results.large idoms like my Mook Jongs I like to use Spackling conpound.( 
> remember I normaly make my Martail art dummys out of plywood that Ive turner 
> on my Legacy, The plywood has lots of opened voids and grain tair out...) I 
> let the spackleing conpound dry, sand and seal. Its very easy! Ive never had 
> any problems useing this tenique on the dummys.
>
> As a general rule of thumb, using the idioms own saw dust normally work well 
> if you use the same sealer as your bonding agent.
>
> example saw dust and Shellac mixed into a putty to fill in the crack or 
> void,Let dry and sand. will work well if you use Shellac as your finishing 
> coat. but if you use glue and saw dust, and then seal with oil or poly. the 
> patch may show up afterwards.
>
>  CA glue and saw dust work well for small cracks.
>
> For bowls that have tair out, you could try to sand with steel wool and a 
> film forming oil, sand well , let air dry before sanding again and seal the 
> bowl.
>
> Oil and CA glue also work nice.(but it dose take some skill to use.I will 
> write on how to do that one latter.)
>
> Oil and wax also work well for high shine finishes.
>
> I also like Hut turnings wax. I use that on the arm of my dummys only. that 
> stuff is baby bottom smooth, wares like iron. and is easy to fix.
>
> Here are two resp. have worked well for me in the past. It cant hurt to try 
> them for your self.And or shair the info with others.
>
> I got them fromhttp://eddiecastelin.com
>
> Sanding Wax
> By Eddie Castelin
> This wax and techniqu

Re: Possible on legacy?

2011-04-11 Thread BOB

i might be wrong but this could be done as an inside out project on
the legacy bob

On Apr 11, 11:18 am, "William/Personal"  wrote:
> The bowl is turned on a lathe and the Legacy is used to do the hollowing. If
> you go to the Legacy website, look up Dr. Courtland's work. I seem to
> remember he was displaying some of his work which included hollowing forms
> after turning them on a lathe.
>
> William
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Wimer
> Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 8:11 AM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Possible on legacy?
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I am curious if anyone could think of a way to do this on the legacy? I got
> a copy of Jeff Salters video and it comes with complete instructions on how
> to set up your existing lathe in order to accomplish this project. The
> biggest issue I can see is that with Jeff's system he is able to rotate the
> z-axis, which allows him to follow the contour of the piece.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Jeff Wimer
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: saw blade

2011-03-30 Thread BOB

i wanted to thank everyone for the great positive feedback and yes the
table top that curt pointed out is what i was talking about that was
the best post for me i made a table using those instructions and it
turned out very well it sounds funny but it changed my thinking
towards this discussion group there are still honest knowledgeable
people around willing to share, very refreshing i can't wait to start
the ball cutting jig because that one will be right up there also. i
am thinking it might work for my stair rail gooseneck problem that i
have been wrestling with anyway thanks for the saw blade input i will
probably make an impulse buy between the frued or forrest bob

On Mar 30, 6:07 pm, "Gary Moshofsky"  wrote:
> I think that even with cheap blades they aren't really getting dull as fast
> as you think they are. Most of the time pitch and resin builds up on the
> carbide teeth and a good cleaning will renew them remarkably. There are many
> solvents used from oven cleaner, amonia, simply green, etc. Don't use a
> steel brush on them, use a fine brass wire brush. And if you are using one
> of the noxious chemicals wear protection.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bulkeley
> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 2:20 PM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: saw blade
>
> Well reading all this about saw blades you guys have educated me on blades I
> use cheaper blades and just buy a new one every time its needs a sharpen
> because here in Australia there it not much difference between the price of
> a new cheap blade and to get one resharpened i'm going to look into these
> blades you guys are recommending.
> one thing a little off topic but some of the newer guys might find
> interesting one of the members use to template cut on the legacy with a
> power saw cutting sideways with the saw while rotating the work piece. and
> following a template. I did have pictures but I cant find them maybe Tim has
> them and can post them I really found it quite interesting Bill
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Gary Moshofsky" 
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 5:19 AM
> Subject: RE: saw blade
>
> >I use several different blades including a WWII depending on the task.
> >I  have several FS Tools blades  (dedicated rip and crosscut blades)and
> >really like them.
> >http://www.fstoolcorp.com/Products/Saw%20Blades.aspx
> > My dado set is by Freud and works fine. My saw has 3 HP and can swing
> >a  full  thickness blade. I only use full thickness  blades as that
> >allows use of the riving knife on my saw. I have a blade  stifffener
> >from Forrest but have never used it.
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Randy
> > Rhine
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 7:41 AM
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > Subject: Re: saw blade
>
> > The Forrest WWII comes in a thin-kerf  (3/32") version.
>
> > rr
>
> > Andy wrote:
> >> Bob
>
> >> I've been using the Freud thin rip and combination blades for a while
> >> now. I haven't used any other blades (only been woodworking 4 years)
> >> so I can't speak to any of the other blades out there. I have had
> >> them sharpened a few times and it looks like they have a few more
> >> resharpenings in them.
>
> >> One thing you may want to consider is the size of your table saw.
> >> Mine is 1.5 HP so swinging a full kerf blade like a Forrest would
> >> somewhat bog down the saw if I'm cutting at full depth.
>
> >> Just another thing to consider. If you have a bigger saw I'm sure
> >> you'll be happy with either. Both have excellent reviews.
>
> >> Andrew
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> > Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> > Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe

saw blade

2011-03-29 Thread BOB

i know this is not legacy oriented but i value everyone's opinion but
first i have to say the ball jig of bill's is the best idea since the
pie shape table top i will be making that jig thanks ok so i never had
a really good 10" table saw blade until recently i bought a freud glue
line rip blade and it has spoiled me so i was looking to buy the freud
combination blade but have noticed in the trade mags all that they
talk about is the forrest woodworker 2 you can almost get two freud
for the cost of one forrest  and i know little about other brands i
know that it is a loaded question but wondered what everyone's
favorite go to blade is thank you bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: stair railing

2011-02-22 Thread BOB

hey mike that is what i mean i have such a hard time explaining i
looked at the table by dean mohring and his table leg profile is all
on the same plane where one bit would do it all not like a handrail so
the next question is can you buy router bits in sets of two that are
90degrees apart i am thinking that they don't and you would have to
get two bits for each profile i guess that i got excited when i found
hand rail bits for sale with all the details on one bit designed to go
straight from post to post it just makes sense to me that they would
have other sets for the more complicated rail systems but i have not
found it yet bob

On Feb 22, 6:43 pm, "Okla Mike (Liltwisted)" 
wrote:
> Bob
> Your head is screwed on correctly!  phew!  I assume you are talking
> about volute with an up-ease.  You will need to have 2 bits with the
> same pattern 90ï¿½ apposing.   Aside from milling each segment of the
> profile separately, a pair of bits is the only way to go.
> Well that's my 2 bit answer
> Mike
> OK
>
> On 2/22/2011 2:29 PM, BOB wrote:
>
> > i am making a stairway and am at the railing design now i would like
> > to have the style that has the gooseneck section on top and the volute
> > circle piece on the bottom i have been thinking about this for so long
> > that i am thinking in circles the biggest problem that i see is the
> > gooseneck it seems that you need two pairs of bits one for side
> > milling and one for the gooseneck would have to be milled from the top
> > i know that the design has a lot of variables but you still can't make
> > a gooseneck by side milling i really hope that i am wrong anyway if
> > someone would like to help me screw my head back on it would be
> > appreciated bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

stair railing

2011-02-22 Thread BOB

i am making a stairway and am at the railing design now i would like
to have the style that has the gooseneck section on top and the volute
circle piece on the bottom i have been thinking about this for so long
that i am thinking in circles the biggest problem that i see is the
gooseneck it seems that you need two pairs of bits one for side
milling and one for the gooseneck would have to be milled from the top
i know that the design has a lot of variables but you still can't make
a gooseneck by side milling i really hope that i am wrong anyway if
someone would like to help me screw my head back on it would be
appreciated bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

linear drive

2011-02-02 Thread BOB

this might not be a popular idea but i thought I'd give it a try been
thinking about it, has any one considered going low tech with a linear
drive system a dc motor like a wiper or power window motor both have
gear reduction you could use the same control switch hooked to a foot
pedal have no limit switches and have the motor coupled to the lead
screw using a sprag or roller clutch so that when you got close to the
end you would turn it off and finish by hand the down side would be
you would have to loosen the split not to back it up. using the clutch
setup it would remove easily for times that you would not want it i
have been making balusters for a while now and my shoulders are
telling me that i should look for another way bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: looking for inspirations and ideas

2011-01-31 Thread BOB

i don't know how big your machine is but on my 1200 one of the first
things i made was a 5' walking stick with an eight start rope and the
bottom foot or so was tapered easy to make and gave me confidence to
try harder projects afterwards bob

On Jan 30, 3:41 pm, cole  wrote:
> That is good place to start  ,I cut some mortises with the mill for a
> earlier prototype  for a project  . now I need to learn how to turn
> something to a given dimension . A little practice and I, think do it,
>
> On Jan 30, 10:54 am, Ron Taylor  wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > I recently made a small candlestand, you can turn the centre post on the
> > lathe and then use the legacy to mill the dovetails for the legs, this was
> > my first lathe project and the first time I had to mill dovetails on the
> > mill, it was great fun
>
> > On Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 8:33 PM, cole  wrote:
> > >  Our chuck has not arrived yet , so I'll have about a week to think to
> > > think of what to make. I'm trying to keep it simple seeing as my
> > > experience with the lathe in particular is still very limited .Tim's
> > > challenge to marry the two together in one project is what I'm after.I
> > > see this as great oppurtunity to expand my skills.
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> > > To post to this group, send email to
> > > legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > > legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > >  s%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com>
> > > .
> > > For more options, visit this group at
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Rotary Table in Ebay

2011-01-26 Thread BOB

i would like to update to the metal gears for my rotary table if
anyone knows where to go bob

On Jan 26, 3:29 am, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> I might be interested how do you feel about shipping to Australia
> send me a email off line bulke...@mmnet.com.au
> Bill
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: BRUCE DORWORTH
>   To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 3:37 PM
>   Subject: Re: Rotary Table in Ebay
>
>         If anyone is interested I have a slightly used Rotary Table.  I would 
> sell it for $250.00. I made 6 or 8 Rosette's with it before I sold my mill. 
> The person that bought the mill was not interested in the table.
>
>         We would have to discuss shipping.
>
>         Bruce
>
>         --- On Tue, 1/25/11, curt george  wrote:
>
>           From: curt george 
>           Subject: Re: Rotary Table in Ebay
>           To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>           Date: Tuesday, January 25, 2011, 6:00 PM
>
>           Yes that has always been our policy. Perhaps someone out there 
> could use the table?So why not help them out if you can by posting it, is the 
> way I see it.
>           Even you have posted adds to the group in the past. and we both 
> have tried to sell your goods on the forum.So post it to the group?
>
>           Ive gota go.
>           have a good night.
>
>           C.A.G.
>             - Original Message -
>             From: Tim Krause
>             To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
>             Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 8:31 PM
>             Subject: Rotary Table in Ebay
>
>             Here's a rotary table for sale on ebay.
>
>            
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Rotary-Table-Legacy-Ornamental-Mill-/140504913594
>
>             Little reminder, if you want to sell or trade Legacy parts here 
> in the group, you are more than welcome to post a for sale message here!
>
>             -Tim
>
>             --
>             You received this message because you are subscribed to the 
> Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>             To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
>             To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>             For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
>           --
>           You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>           To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
>           To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>           For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
>   --
>   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>   To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>   For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: 2010 Its been a good year! ;-)

2011-01-02 Thread BOB

i would like to add macswag [if i spelled it right] to the list of
newcomers i really enjoyed his post's bob

On Dec 31 2010, 8:44 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Well that's interesting, %50 growth over last year.  I'm really hoping the 
> people that said they would like to contribute a tutorial or two make it 
> happen this year.  If you are not computer savvy anyone can send me photo's 
> offline and I will post them to the group.  I don't want technology to be the 
> only thing holding new work back from being posted.  
>
> Thanks to everyone that has made this group what it is.  I've really enjoyed 
> seeing new work this year by Bill, Carl, SteveEJ, GK777, CCM and even Curt 
> :-).  If I've missed anyone I apologize in advance!
>
> Happy New Year Everyone!
>
> -Tim
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: curt george
>   To: Legacy Google group
>   Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 5:07 PM
>   Subject: 2010 Its been a good year! ;-)
>
>   Hello everyone.
>   Happy New Year to all.
>
>   If you look at the groups message page. Feeds Latest 15 messages (RSS)   -  
> View all available feeds (RSS and Atom)  
>               Archive
>                        Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  
> Dec
>                     2004                                  12    
>                     2005 227  175  178  104  85  92  66  94  48  71  95  169  
>   
>                     2006 83  56  100  50  116  47  48  75  54  63  118  100   
>  
>                     2007 76  140  99  122  170  54  64  61  48  95  107  52   
>  
>                     2008 90  79  122  53  130  99  117  118  58  55  71  79   
>  
>                     2009 35  44  139  71  92  27  64  49  55  54  86  70    
>                     2010 117  58  131  100  148  205  80  84  214  95  116  
> 218    
>
>   This has been one of the very best years that we have had as a group. I 
> just wanted to say Thank you. (to everyone.)
>   Its been a lot of fun.and Im looking forward to continuing learning and 
> sharing knowledge with everyone. Keep up the good work. 2011 is on its way 
> here. ;-)
>   Talk to you guys next year.
>   C.A.G.
>
>   --
>   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>   To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>   For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Fw:

2011-01-02 Thread BOB

to anyone who is reading this  is curt good for the ego or what i did
make a template but probably won't have a chance to use it living in
Pennsylvania this fellow went out west to get this elk but who knows i
did like working with butternut it was a little stringy or fuzzy on
some of the cuts and i could not sand it out easily used a scraper to
cut it out i don't know about working for myself but it sounds nice
getting out of the factory it reminds me of when i use to bowl for a
hobby then started playing for money and it wasn't fun anymore also i
don't know how to charge the right amount i give to much away thank
you again curt happy holidays bob

On Jan 2, 9:06 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> Happy New Year Bob
>
> Butternut is a very nice wood to work with, Ive not had the pleasure of
> playing with it, for a number of years now.
> I think that was a good choice of woods for your mounting, Its light, has a
> very nice grain, and I like the color.
> I hope you made your self a template? Once the word get out . I think you
> will have lots of those placks to make.
> (If you think your bussy now, just wait,until all those hunters get the word
> that you are makeing mounting racks that look as nice as your , I think you
> may find that you will have another full time job.) :-)
> Keep up the good work!
>
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2011 11:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw:
>
> thank you for the kind words and the help posting it for me i will get
> the hang of it yet sorry that my reply is late i work a 12 hour swing
> shift the wood is butternut finished naturally with bartley jel  i
> really like it you rub it in until it is dry no nubs or dust to deal
> with the bit is the standard rope bit 48 starts it was a fun project
> the customer was very happy with it thank you again bob
>
> On Dec 30 2010, 9:15 pm, "Bill Bulkeley" 
> wrote:
> > That looks really good I like that roatry table work ??
> > Bill
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: curt george
> > To: Legacy Google group
> > Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 1:01 PM
> > Subject: Fw:
>
> > Very nice work Bob.
> > - Original Message -
> > From: BOB ELSTON
> > To: curt george
> > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 8:16 PM
>
> > hey curt I am trying to send a picture of one of my projects to the group
> > with no luck if you could I would appreciate some help thank you it is
> > easy doing it with e-mail but I'm missing the boat with Google bob
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group
> > athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Fw:

2011-01-01 Thread BOB

thank you for the kind words and the help posting it for me i will get
the hang of it yet sorry that my reply is late i work a 12 hour swing
shift the wood is butternut finished naturally with bartley jel  i
really like it you rub it in until it is dry no nubs or dust to deal
with the bit is the standard rope bit 48 starts it was a fun project
the customer was very happy with it thank you again bob

On Dec 30 2010, 9:15 pm, "Bill Bulkeley" 
wrote:
> That looks really good I like that roatry table work ??
> Bill
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: curt george
>   To: Legacy Google group
>   Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 1:01 PM
>   Subject: Fw:
>
>   Very nice work Bob.
>   - Original Message -
>   From: BOB ELSTON
>   To: curt george
>   Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 8:16 PM
>
>   hey curt I am trying to send a picture of one of my projects to the group 
> with no luck if you could I would appreciate some help thank you it is easy 
> doing it with e-mail but I'm missing the boat with Google bob
>
>   --
>   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>   To post to this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>   For more options, visit this group 
> athttp://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Lathes and the Legacy

2010-12-09 Thread BOB

hey curt i have a random orbital or dual action sander that i use on
straight or tapered parts with no profile which will not turn the
stock by its self the profile sander has several heads of different
profiles and moves back and forth only you can move the sander forward
and back on the stock to control how fast the stock rotates you also
have to loosen the tailstock on the legacy slightly so that it will
rotate more freely the model number of my porter cable is 444 that
will help more than me describing it bob

On Dec 8, 2:11 pm, CURTIS GEORGE  wrote:
> detail sander ? dont you mean random-oribtal sander.
> Im sorry if Im wrong, but if we are talking about the same machine the detail 
> sander has a diamond profile and just viberates. The R.O.sander has a round 
> disk that spins.
> Neat idea. And one that I have not tried,I think I will try it .\
> Thanks for the tip.
>
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: BOB 
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Sent: Wed, 08 Dec 2010 10:51:42 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
> just a side note on sanding i have porter cables detail sander and i
> sand parts in the legacy once i start rotating the stock by hand to
> get it going the action of the sander keeps it going at a faster rate
> than i could turn it might not be the correct way to do it but works
> well for me bob
>
> On Dec 7, 11:54 pm, "Bill Bulkeley" wrote:
> > I wouldn't complain to much down under you got
> > g'day mate and fair dinkum and many more. when I post I am always careful 
> > not to put any thing that might be hard to understand  lolol and just for 
> > the record my spelling is always run through the spell checker before it 
> > gets posted.
> > Bill
>
> >   - Original Message -
> >   From: curt george
> >   To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >   Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 10:12 AM
> >   Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
> >   UGG! I missed up on the Quote.
>
> >   I am what I am, and That's All that I am...
>
> >   C.A.G.
> >     - Original Message -
> >     From: curt george
> >     To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >     Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 6:08 PM
> >     Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
> >     LOL! Tim.
> >     Sometime the truth hurts. I cant spell worth beans.never could. ;-)
>
> >      Its not pick on Roger  time. But I've been to England, I hate to tell 
> > you there English is not the best in the world ether. With a lot of Blok's, 
> > there slang is horribly hard to understand,unless they grew up there,And 
> > its spoken at a very high rate of speed as well making it even harder to 
> > understand.
> >     I still cant figure out why everyone at the Bar/ Pub, keep asking if I 
> > was Pissed yet ? and I wasn't even close to being mad at the time. ;-) 
> > (Pissed is Drunk those who want to know.)
> >     I was taught the Art of Communication is to communicate, in what ever 
> > way you can.
>
> >     I need to go. But I realy like a Quote the explains it the best.  "I 
> > am,What I am. Im Popeye the Sailor Man"  ;-)
>
> >     Have a good night all.
>
> >     C.A.G.
>
> >     - Original Message -
> >       From: Tim Krause
> >       To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >       Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 5:20 PM
> >       Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
> >       Hello Roger,
>
> >       With all due respect, Curt is the king of spelling errors in this 
> > group and I wouldn't have it any other way.  His knowledge and abilities 
> > far outweigh any grammatical errors.  I would hate to see him not post 
> > because of diction.  The same rule applies for anyone posting.  You don't 
> > need to be a poet, scholar or even English to send a note in this group 
> > :-)!  Consider that pictures can also speak for themselves when English is 
> > not your native tongue.
>
> >       -Tim
>
> >         - Original Message -
> >         From: Roger H Phebey
> >         To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >         Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 2:08 AM
> >         Subject: RE: Lathes and the Legacy
>
> >         Hi Guys
>
> >         First of all Ron do not apologize for your spelling etc, just take 
> > a leaf out of the Americans book and be proud of our country and its 
> > language. We do forgive them for how they have bastardised it but that is 
> > progress. At long last there are signs of people taking pride in their

Re: Lathes and the Legacy

2010-12-08 Thread BOB

just a side note on sanding i have porter cables detail sander and i
sand parts in the legacy once i start rotating the stock by hand to
get it going the action of the sander keeps it going at a faster rate
than i could turn it might not be the correct way to do it but works
well for me bob

On Dec 7, 11:54 pm, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> I wouldn't complain to much down under you got
> g'day mate and fair dinkum and many more. when I post I am always careful not 
> to put any thing that might be hard to understand  lolol and just for the 
> record my spelling is always run through the spell checker before it gets 
> posted.
> Bill
>
>   - Original Message -
>   From: curt george
>   To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>   Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 10:12 AM
>   Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
>   UGG! I missed up on the Quote.
>
>   I am what I am, and That's All that I am...
>
>   C.A.G.
>     - Original Message -
>     From: curt george
>     To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>     Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 6:08 PM
>     Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
>     LOL! Tim.
>     Sometime the truth hurts. I cant spell worth beans.never could. ;-)
>
>      Its not pick on Roger  time. But I've been to England, I hate to tell 
> you there English is not the best in the world ether. With a lot of Blok's, 
> there slang is horribly hard to understand,unless they grew up there,And its 
> spoken at a very high rate of speed as well making it even harder to 
> understand.
>     I still cant figure out why everyone at the Bar/ Pub, keep asking if I 
> was Pissed yet ? and I wasn't even close to being mad at the time. ;-) 
> (Pissed is Drunk those who want to know.)
>     I was taught the Art of Communication is to communicate, in what ever way 
> you can.
>
>     I need to go. But I realy like a Quote the explains it the best.  "I 
> am,What I am. Im Popeye the Sailor Man"  ;-)
>
>     Have a good night all.
>
>     C.A.G.
>
>     - Original Message -
>       From: Tim Krause
>       To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>       Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 5:20 PM
>       Subject: Re: Lathes and the Legacy
>
>       Hello Roger,
>
>       With all due respect, Curt is the king of spelling errors in this group 
> and I wouldn't have it any other way.  His knowledge and abilities far 
> outweigh any grammatical errors.  I would hate to see him not post because of 
> diction.  The same rule applies for anyone posting.  You don't need to be a 
> poet, scholar or even English to send a note in this group :-)!  Consider 
> that pictures can also speak for themselves when English is not your native 
> tongue.
>
>       -Tim
>
>         - Original Message -
>         From: Roger H Phebey
>         To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>         Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 2:08 AM
>         Subject: RE: Lathes and the Legacy
>
>         Hi Guys
>
>         First of all Ron do not apologize for your spelling etc, just take a 
> leaf out of the Americans book and be proud of our country and its language. 
> We do forgive them for how they have bastardised it but that is progress. At 
> long last there are signs of people taking pride in their country over here 
> but sadly it took the coffins of returning servicemen & women to make it 
> happen but it was triggered by the people, not the politians.
>
>         Tim, I have three lathes and a REVO at present and I never have time 
> to use them although I am trying to find time over the festive season to 
> change that, BUT I do like to see different ways of doing things and tools. I 
> have been impressed with dickum Bill down in Australia and his modifications. 
> My advice to you is just use your judgment, it has been spot on up until now, 
> and if you screw up the group will forgive you because you are doing a 
> brilliant job. By the way I have just started a rumour that you're going to 
> stand for President of the USA as you have common sense a commodity missing 
> in nearly all politians.
>
>         Finally, if you're a Libran that explains lots; because so also is 
> Mr. Legacy - Andy Anderson, and bringing up the rear me!
>
>         Keep up the good work.
>
>         Best regards
>         Roger
>
> 
>
>         From: 
> legacy-ornamental-mills+bnccpeg4fqxchcbrpbnbboepoj...@googlegroups.com 
> [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills+bnccpeg4fqxchcbrpbnbboepoj...@googlegroups.com]
>  On Behalf Of Ron Taylor
>         Sent: 07 Dec

Re: New Project Ideas

2010-11-15 Thread BOB

i always wanted to try some inside out projects like for making
ornaments but have not gotten to it  bob

On Nov 15, 3:27 am, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> The holiday season is coming.  What are some of the gift items you have made 
> on the ornamental mill?  What are some simple gift ideas that you would like 
> to make but have never got around to trying to make?
>
> Here's a little start, Harry Potter is back, why not make a few wands for the 
> kids.  How about a set of custom napkin rings? How about a ring box for that 
> special gift?  Those are some of the things that I can think of.  How about 
> you?
>
> -Tim

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: revo modification

2010-11-03 Thread BOB

now i get it i was missing the point about the legs being longer it
reminds me of when i was determined to make dovetail joints on my
machine after a lot of work i did it but ended up buying the fast
joint system from mlcs just like curt was trying to tell me as for my
plaque it turned out real good the hardest part was getting the
customer to agree on a design for more than a day made it out of
butternut which did not like the router bit made more fuzz than chips
used the rope bit on the rotary table 48 starts going to the center
the outline was just the base of the neck 2 1/2" bigger i put a 1/4"
bead around the outside edge to cover the edge grain but with all
those starts it made it look like a salsa chip dip bowl so that came
off i really wanted to make the shadow design that was mentioned at
the time but could not sell it he wanted the attention to be on the
elk more than the plaque one thing that i wish our group would spend
more time on is finishing sometimes the end grain on turnings take a
finish real bad and you don't know until it is to late for this
project i used bartley gel stain first time that i used it worked real
well no end grain dark spots have used minwax gel stain in the past
with bad results very uneven color thru out the piece the bartley
softened up the fuzz and was able to use a scraper to remove it as far
as pictures go i am the only person in Pennsylvania who does not own a
cell phone or digital camera the customer promised me a picture when
the head is mounted and i will post that picture bob

On Nov 3, 5:52 am, gk777  wrote:
> Much better thanks, and now I understand your need more, thanks again.
>
> On Oct 31, 1:44 pm, ronkir...@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi
> > Attached are updated sketches. Hopefully these are clearer.
> > Ron
>
> >  legacy sliding table updated0001.jpg
> > 681KViewDownload
>
> >  legacy sliding table updated0002.jpg
> > 740KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: revo modification

2010-11-02 Thread BOB

i like the idea also but my concern would be the thickness of the work
piece if i am understanding correctly i recently made an elk head
plaque on the rotary table with my 1200 it was 1 3/16 " thick and it
barely made it between the rails if you want to make larger pieces
like headboards that is not thick enough bob

On Oct 31, 1:44 pm, ronkir...@aol.com wrote:
> Hi
> Attached are updated sketches. Hopefully these are clearer.
> Ron
>
>  legacy sliding table updated0001.jpg
> 681KViewDownload
>
>  legacy sliding table updated0002.jpg
> 740KViewDownload

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: Links Wanted

2010-09-28 Thread BOB

this website doesn't deal with the legacy but i like his way of making
wood shop jigs  http://woodgears.ca/  bob

On Sep 25, 2:37 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> Ranking high on the survey of what our users would like to see was links to 
> members web sites and other ornamental turning web sites.  I would like your 
> help in building this list.  Please feel free to add them to this thread and 
> I will create a master list off of the home page for us all to reference.  
> All I need is a link and a brief description.  
>
> If you would like to contribute a link and remain anonymous, feel free to 
> drop a personal email to me or I can be reached by using the "Send email to 
> owner"  off of the "About this group" page.  
>
> For those selling their skills and services this is a great time to get a 
> plug in.   I reserve the right to limit the links to only appropriate links 
> related to the legacy ornamental mill, ornamental turning, and general 
> woodworking tips.  I believe the membership would equally appreciate some 
> link moderation.
>
> -Tim

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: trophy head mount

2010-06-28 Thread BOB

thank you both for your idea's ultimately it is up to the customer i
will tell him both idea's to me it is a fine line you don't want the
main attention to be the plaque this job has the feel that it is going
to be  long and drawn out but in the end I'll tell you how it turned
out bob

On Jun 28, 7:18 pm, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> for what its worth I had a crazy idea once when I wanted to mount a deer
> head here down under I was going to do a large silhouette of a deer's head
> with the band saw or scroll saw and mount the head to that, sort of like a
> head mounted on a head I thought it would sort of look like a wooden shadow
> of the mount cast on the wall  Like I said it was only a idea so if you
> wanted something really different.
> I never go with traditional with anything much far too boring but that's
> just me
> Bill
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "curt george" 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 6:54 AM
> Subject: Re: trophy head mount
>
> > BoB
> > I talked to some of my friends that hunt, as well as a taxidermy web site.
> > Most plaques are basically a shield looking mounting (three points on top
> > and one on the bottom.) The only basic differences are the size of the
> > shield, (that depends on the size of the head being placed on it.)
> > S0 I guess the sky is wide open for you, to be creative as long as the
> > owner likes what he see's.
> > A star burst, look on the edges might look nice.
>
> > Good luck on this project, I can't wait to see what you come up with! ;-)
> > C.A.G.
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "BOB" 
> > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:25 PM
> > Subject: trophy head mount
>
> >>a customer approched me asking if i could make a plaque for his elk
> >> head everything that he found all looked alike they would have similar
> >> profiles with a ogee routed on the edge i was thinking of using the
> >> rotary table with the drive shaft and making a rosette type of thing
> >> with a single bead on the edges it would be about 2" wider than the
> >> neck all the way around i have no other idea's any help would be
> >> appreciated bob
>
> >> --
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> >> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> >> To post to this group, send email to
> >> legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> >> legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> >> For more options, visit this group at
> >>http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

trophy head mount

2010-06-28 Thread BOB

a customer approched me asking if i could make a plaque for his elk
head everything that he found all looked alike they would have similar
profiles with a ogee routed on the edge i was thinking of using the
rotary table with the drive shaft and making a rosette type of thing
with a single bead on the edges it would be about 2" wider than the
neck all the way around i have no other idea's any help would be
appreciated bob

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.

Re: fancy dovetail joints

2010-03-25 Thread BOB

i made a template for the legacy for making dovetails and used the
vises that came with it to hold the work pieces and it worked very
well but like curt told me at the time there are easier ways it took
me some time to write the program to make the template and it is only
good for one type of joint i just wanted to do it because legacy
advertises it as capable of doing dovetails in the end  i bought the
fast joint system from mlcs and  it is very easy to use a no brainer
to set up and their tech support is friendly and available  bob

On Mar 24, 11:54 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Hey Bill,
>
> Thank god I'm not the only one that has a dial indicator sitting next to his
> legacy.  I admit to using it for getting the diameters right before I
> invented the TK Bed Height Tool.  I've only used it a couple of time on the
> x and y travel.  I was trying to do some really fine lines like knurling on
> flat stock.
>
> Have fun,
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bill Bulkeley" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 6:39 PM
> Subject: Re: fancy dovetail joints
>
> > I did cheat a bit I used a dial indicator to get the exact spacing correct
> > and the revos saddle is  much sturdier than the 900.and I only did 2
> > dovetail jobs. I have never really messed with dovetails much perhaps I
> was
> > just lucky it worked ok it was not much different than doing it out of
> steel
> > on a worn out milling machine like I had to use some times in my metal
> > machining days.;
> > Bill
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Tim Krause" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 2:33 PM
> > Subject: Re: fancy dovetail joints
>
> > > Wow Bill,
>
> > > That's a real sign of a craftsman if you can over come the crude
> measuring
> > > of the legacy and all of the slop.  I never thought it was really
> > > practical
> > > in the machines basic form.  I've heard other talk about using generic
> > > template and mounting them to the template follower, but I don't know if
> > > it's a common or practical practice on the legacy.
>
> > > After watching a few videos on youtube about the Incra LS, I really like
> > > the
> > > idea of using 32 tooth per inch rack and a lock to gain incremental
> > > accurate
> > > movements.  I can see one mounted on the y-axis.  Maybe even a short one
> > > on
> > > the template follower.  Every day there is something new to learn. This
> > > idea
> > > could solve my mini moves problem.  I guess I need to go look for some
> > > rack
> > > now.  I'd be happy with 16 or even 8.
>
> > > -Tim
>
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: "Bill Bulkeley" 
> > > To: 
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 5:48 PM
> > > Subject: Re: fancy dovetail joints
>
> > >> I have never really wanted the incra dove tail jig I do any dovetails
> on
> > > the
> > >> legacy imcluding the contrasting wood
> > >> as explained its just a matter of doing it twice once with the
> differant
> > >> color wood then once dry again a little smaller with the joining piece
> > >> Bill
>
> > >> - Original Message -
> > >> From: "Euro-Legacy" 
> > >> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills"
>
> 
>
> > >> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 10:52 AM
> > >> Subject: Re: fancy dovetail joints
>
> > >> Hi Mac
> > >> Go look on the INCRA website and you will find out how simple it is to
> > >> make, alternatively ring me in the morning and purchase an INCRA LS 17
> > >> WFNCSYS Jig, available now in metric or Imperial measurement system.
> > >> Alternatively give it a little thought, two different coloured timbers
> > >> glued and joined using dovetail joint, then when set cut the width of
> > >> the coloured detail line required and remake the dovetails. It is
> > >> actually simple, just like live when you know how and with a INCRA Jig
> > >> anyone can make them if I can, even Bill down in oz who could call my
> > >> mate Grahame at Professional Woodworkers Supplies and by an INCRA
> > >> locally!
> > >> Best regards
> > >> Roger
>
> > >> On Mar 24, 11:30 pm, MACSWAG  wrote:
> > >> > Hello chaps,how do you make those fancy contrasting woods
> > >> > dovetails,you can see them on the expensive Incra, tool rigs

Re: How do you hold down your work?

2009-10-07 Thread BOB


hey curt i for one don't mind going over old topics i review the
training tapes periodically  i use tape most of the time but agree
that there should be a better way bob

On Oct 7, 1:21 am, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> just reply to the email and attach them and they will be posted
> Bill
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "mike" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:49 PM
> Subject: Re: How do you hold down your work?
>
> How do I post pictures?
>
> On Oct 6, 2:40 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> > Hello Mike
> > Is there any way that you could post some pictures of your vacuum system?
> > I
> > would very much like to see how you made yours.
>
> > I for one have made a number of clamping tables that fit my legacy, but I
> > still haven't found the best system for me yet.
> > Anyone else have any ideas?
>
> > Thank you Mike.
> > I will talk to you all more latter.
> > have a great day.
> > C.A.G.
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "mike" 
> > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:41 PM
> > Subject: Re: How do you hold down your work?
>
> > Ive used hot melt glue,it works good for somethings,
> > last year I built the vacume clamp system froms joes venier
> > website,exept I added 2 4gal vaccum tanks It works the best for most
> > things exept when the wood isn't smooth,.
> > I never had very good luck with the cam clamps
>
> > On Oct 5, 4:31 pm, "Bill Bulkeley"  wrote:
> > > I use the cams some of legacy's and some others I bought on the internet
> > > and if the edge is not suitable for clamping well or it lifts, I use the
> > > double sided tape as an extra help. I'm sure there are much better ways
> > > but that's what I do I guess I don't trust vacuum or magnets. hot glue
> > > sounds ok but I have not tried it. if your going to machine the bottom
> > > side later then the paper gasket and glue works well too especially
> > > small
> > > pieces and on the rotary table
> > > Bill
>
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: curt george
> > > To: Legacy Google group
> > > Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 6:56 PM
> > > Subject: How do you hold down your work?
>
> > > Hello Everyone
>
> > > This is more of less a re-hash of an old topic. How do you hold down
> > > your
> > > flat stock on your Legacy.
>
> > > I know that Legacy now uses there cam lever hold downs, but in the past
> > > thay suggested to use double sided tape.
>
> > > Art said that he liked using hot melt glue, (I have used that idea quite
> > > a
> > > bit since his suggestion.and it works well for me too.)
>
> > > I remember some members suggesting that they wanted to use vacuum
> > > holding
> > > system. Some one suggested using a
> > > electronic magnate like many machine shops use.
>
> > > So back to the question. How do you do it? and or what do you think
> > > would
> > > be the best way to hold down you flat work pieces on the Legacy?
>
> > > talk to you all latter.
> > > have a good day.
>
> > > C.A.G.
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

Re: Transition tricks

2009-07-15 Thread BOB


hey curt i was wondering how you made out with your handle i like the
canes with the sloping handle with a ball on the end it would be one
piece with the ball on the end being separate it would probably be
just as easy to make the sloping  or curved part with the band saw
just my preference bob

On Jul 7, 9:23 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> Hello Everyone.
> Finally I had some time in the shop, I made a nice cane, only one small 
> problem, I am planning to make the handle out of the same turning.Now after 
> making a mortise and tendon joint, I relies that I didn't make a good 
> transition ,the joint just doesn't work, Now I can carve a cove in the flat 
> of the cane to mate up to the round of the handle or ... (and that is what I 
> had planed to do from the very start.) But after thinking about it, I thought 
> that some of you might have there own, better ways to attach a round handle 
> onto a cane body.( Im talking about making a 90 deg. or right angle cane 
> handle.)
>
> Any and or all ideas are welcome.
> How would you do it? ;-)
>
> C.A.G.
>
> p.s.
> pictures will also be coming soon, (But I need to find the camera first.) ;-( 
> .  ;-)
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

Re: dovetail joint

2009-07-02 Thread BOB


hi Tim the template fingers are 1/2" wide and 1/2" apart and the cuts
measure 1/2" and they are evenly spaced it is off 1/8" the tails are
to big i know what is wrong but am struggling to explain it so bear
with me the wide part of the pins is 1/2" apart and the narrow part of
the tail is 1/2" which is wrong the wide part of the tail should be
1/2" I'm not setting it up right the tails are 1/8" of because of the
14 degree angle of the cutter to me the pins are made right and I'm
doing something wrong in setting up the vertical board that has the
tails I've been staring at it to long to see the problem any help
would be appreciated bob

On Jul 1, 11:58 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> I recall you mentioning a template. I'm assuming it's a template that has
> fingers that forces 1/2" spacing. If that's the case, either the bit is
> undersized or the template spacing is slightly off, or there might be play
> in the follower. How far off are we talking? Is it consistent or
> intermittent spacing.
>
> -Tim
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 5:57 PM
> Subject: Re: dovetail joint
>
> well i have been messing with this dovetail joint  on and off for a
> couple of weeks now and i am at another road block the problem is that
> the tails & pins are not the same size the bit is 1/2 " at it's widest
> the template is a 1/2" so that i can use the stylist and the z depth
> is 1/2 "  when i make the cut  the pins are 1/2" at it's widest and
> the tails are 5/8 i raised z in small increments thinking it would
> help but it doesn't i don't want to give up yet but I'm out of idea's
> any help would be appreciated  thank you bob
>
> On Jun 22, 3:49 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> > No you didn't mislead, I misread your message. Your on the right path, let
> > us know how it works out.
>
> > -Tim
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "BOB" 
> > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 11:46 AM
> > Subject: Re: dovetail joint
>
> > I'm afraid that i mislead you i have the standard 1200 machine i work
> > in a machine shop and made the template at work bob
>
> > On Jun 22, 3:34 am, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> > > Glad to help,
>
> > > I didn't realize you had the cnc upgrade. I'll be curious to hear how
> the
> > > tolerances work out for you on the half blind dovetails. Do you have the
> > > rack and pinion or standard screw?
>
> > > -Tim
>
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: "BOB" 
> > > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 10:28 PM
> > > Subject: Re: dovetail joint
>
> > > i want to thank you both for replying and tell you the rest of the
> > > story i have both of the vise sets from legacy already so i figured
> > > that i was half way there i want to make half blind dovetails so i
> > > made the jigs out of mdf board and fastened them to both vise sets
> > > took the time to write the program and cut out a template mounted
> > > everything and then realized that the z travel was to short which is
> > > typical for me forgetting something basic when it is to late to turn
> > > back so I've been looking everywhere for a router bit that would be
> > > long enough everywhere except magnate the obvious place again typical
> > > for me so thank you again for saving my bacon hopefully i will be
> > > making drawers by the end of the week bob
>
> > > On Jun 21, 6:01 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> > > > Good morning BOB
> > > > why not make a horizontal jig to hold your wood?
> > > > I made one a while back. If not you could always clamp your wood to
> the
> > > > legacy's side rails, and cut from there?
> > > > I think that the best way to use the Legacy here would be to use a
> > > template
> > > > on the Legacy.
> > > > If this is something that you must play with I would suggest to look
> at
> > > the
> > > > WoodRat web site.http://www.woodrat.com/theyhavesomeneat ideas that
> > > > could be used on the Legacy.
>
> > > > I have to run!
> > > > have a great day! ;-)
>
> > > > good luck on your dovetail joints, Please keep us informed on how it
> > works
> > > > out.
> > > > C.A.G.
>

Re: dovetail joint

2009-07-01 Thread BOB


well i have been messing with this dovetail joint  on and off for a
couple of weeks now and i am at another road block the problem is that
the tails & pins are not the same size the bit is 1/2 " at it's widest
the template is a 1/2" so that i can use the stylist and the z depth
is 1/2 "  when i make the cut  the pins are 1/2" at it's widest and
the tails are 5/8 i raised z in small increments thinking it would
help but it doesn't i don't want to give up yet but I'm out of idea's
any help would be appreciated  thank you bob

On Jun 22, 3:49 pm, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> No you didn't mislead, I misread your message. Your on the right path, let
> us know how it works out.
>
> -Tim
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 11:46 AM
> Subject: Re: dovetail joint
>
> I'm afraid that i mislead you i have the standard 1200 machine i work
> in a machine shop and made the template at work bob
>
> On Jun 22, 3:34 am, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> > Glad to help,
>
> > I didn't realize you had the cnc upgrade. I'll be curious to hear how the
> > tolerances work out for you on the half blind dovetails. Do you have the
> > rack and pinion or standard screw?
>
> > -Tim
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "BOB" 
> > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 10:28 PM
> > Subject: Re: dovetail joint
>
> > i want to thank you both for replying and tell you the rest of the
> > story i have both of the vise sets from legacy already so i figured
> > that i was half way there i want to make half blind dovetails so i
> > made the jigs out of mdf board and fastened them to both vise sets
> > took the time to write the program and cut out a template mounted
> > everything and then realized that the z travel was to short which is
> > typical for me forgetting something basic when it is to late to turn
> > back so I've been looking everywhere for a router bit that would be
> > long enough everywhere except magnate the obvious place again typical
> > for me so thank you again for saving my bacon hopefully i will be
> > making drawers by the end of the week bob
>
> > On Jun 21, 6:01 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> > > Good morning BOB
> > > why not make a horizontal jig to hold your wood?
> > > I made one a while back. If not you could always clamp your wood to the
> > > legacy's side rails, and cut from there?
> > > I think that the best way to use the Legacy here would be to use a
> > template
> > > on the Legacy.
> > > If this is something that you must play with I would suggest to look at
> > the
> > > WoodRat web site.http://www.woodrat.com/theyhavesome neat ideas that
> > > could be used on the Legacy.
>
> > > I have to run!
> > > have a great day! ;-)
>
> > > good luck on your dovetail joints, Please keep us informed on how it
> works
> > > out.
> > > C.A.G.
>
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: "BOB" 
> > > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > > Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:06 PM
> > > Subject: dovetail joint
>
> > > > has any one tried making dove tail joints on the legacy i am sure that
> > > > there is an easier way but i wanted to try the biggest problem that i
> > > > am having is that i lower the inside rail so that the work piece goes
> > > > between the inside and outside rails and then i don't have enough z
> > > > travel i know they make extensions but they just don't look like a
> > > > good idea to me any help would be appreciated thank you bob
>
> > > Legacy jig 3.JPG
> > > 1146KViewDownload
>
> > > Legacy jig 2.JPG
> > > 1115KViewDownload
>
> > > Legacy jig 1.JPG
> > > 1107KViewDownload
>
> > > Legacy jig side veiw.JPG
> > > 1125KViewDownload
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

Re: dovetail joint

2009-06-22 Thread BOB


I'm afraid that i mislead you i have the standard 1200 machine i work
in a machine shop and made the template at work bob

On Jun 22, 3:34 am, "Tim Krause"  wrote:
> Glad to help,
>
> I didn't realize you had the cnc upgrade. I'll be curious to hear how the
> tolerances work out for you on the half blind dovetails. Do you have the
> rack and pinion or standard screw?
>
> -Tim
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 10:28 PM
> Subject: Re: dovetail joint
>
> i want to thank you both for replying and tell you the rest of the
> story i have both of the vise sets from legacy already so i figured
> that i was half way there i want to make half blind dovetails so i
> made the jigs out of mdf board and fastened them to both vise sets
> took the time to write the program and cut out a template mounted
> everything and then realized that the z travel was to short which is
> typical for me forgetting something basic  when it is to late to turn
> back so I've been looking everywhere for a router bit that would be
> long enough everywhere except magnate the obvious place again typical
> for me so thank you again for saving my bacon hopefully i will be
> making drawers by the end of the week bob
>
> On Jun 21, 6:01 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> > Good morning BOB
> > why not make a horizontal jig to hold your wood?
> > I made one a while back. If not you could always clamp your wood to the
> > legacy's side rails, and cut from there?
> > I think that the best way to use the Legacy here would be to use a
> template
> > on the Legacy.
> > If this is something that you must play with I would suggest to look at
> the
> > WoodRat web site.http://www.woodrat.com/theyhave some neat ideas that
> > could be used on the Legacy.
>
> > I have to run!
> > have a great day! ;-)
>
> > good luck on your dovetail joints, Please keep us informed on how it works
> > out.
> > C.A.G.
>
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "BOB" 
> > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> > Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:06 PM
> > Subject: dovetail joint
>
> > > has any one tried making dove tail joints on the legacy i am sure that
> > > there is an easier way but i wanted to try the biggest problem that i
> > > am having is that i lower the inside rail so that the work piece goes
> > > between the inside and outside rails and then i don't have enough z
> > > travel i know they make extensions but they just don't look like a
> > > good idea to me any help would be appreciated thank you bob
>
> > Legacy jig 3.JPG
> > 1146KViewDownload
>
> > Legacy jig 2.JPG
> > 1115KViewDownload
>
> > Legacy jig 1.JPG
> > 1107KViewDownload
>
> > Legacy jig side veiw.JPG
> > 1125KViewDownload
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

Re: dovetail joint

2009-06-21 Thread BOB


i want to thank you both for replying and tell you the rest of the
story i have both of the vise sets from legacy already so i figured
that i was half way there i want to make half blind dovetails so i
made the jigs out of mdf board and fastened them to both vise sets
took the time to write the program and cut out a template mounted
everything and then realized that the z travel was to short which is
typical for me forgetting something basic  when it is to late to turn
back so I've been looking everywhere for a router bit that would be
long enough everywhere except magnate the obvious place again typical
for me so thank you again for saving my bacon hopefully i will be
making drawers by the end of the week bob

On Jun 21, 6:01 am, "curt george"  wrote:
> Good morning BOB
> why not make a horizontal jig to hold your wood?
> I made one a while back. If not you could always clamp your wood to the
> legacy's side rails, and cut from there?
> I think that the best way to use the Legacy here would be to use a template
> on the Legacy.
> If this is something that you must play with I would suggest to look at the
> WoodRat web site.http://www.woodrat.com/they have some neat ideas that
> could be used on the Legacy.
>
> I have to run!
> have a great day! ;-)
>
> good luck on your dovetail joints, Please keep us informed on how it works
> out.
> C.A.G.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "BOB" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:06 PM
> Subject: dovetail joint
>
> > has any one tried making dove tail joints on the legacy i am sure that
> > there is an easier way but i wanted to try the biggest problem that i
> > am having is that i lower the inside rail so that the work piece goes
> > between the inside and outside rails and then i don't have enough  z
> > travel i know they make extensions but they just don't look like a
> > good idea to me any help would be appreciated thank you bob
>
>
>
>  Legacy jig 3.JPG
> 1146KViewDownload
>
>  Legacy jig 2.JPG
> 1115KViewDownload
>
>  Legacy jig 1.JPG
> 1107KViewDownload
>
>  Legacy jig side veiw.JPG
> 1125KViewDownload
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

dovetail joint

2009-06-20 Thread BOB


has any one tried making dove tail joints on the legacy i am sure that
there is an easier way but i wanted to try the biggest problem that i
am having is that i lower the inside rail so that the work piece goes
between the inside and outside rails and then i don't have enough  z
travel i know they make extensions but they just don't look like a
good idea to me any help would be appreciated thank you bob
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

cnc

2009-04-06 Thread BOB


i am curious how metal working cnc compares to woodworking cnc . when
i write a program or edit one to make sure that it is good i run it
thru a program that will check it and then i can modify it if it is
necesary it tells me the run time how many chips per part the size of
the chips and if i made a mistake and so on then when i get to the
machine i single block it thru the whole program to verify, if i am
reading the woodworking side of it right you write a program with a
wizard and let it go straight to producing if that is how it is done
that seems risky to me again i ask to learn it is an interesting topic
with more than one way of doing the same thing bob
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

Re: neat chair

2009-02-04 Thread BOB


i always wanted to make chairs but i don't really know where to start
most chairs that i have seen that were homemade were very
uncomfortable it seems like the legacy  would make milling at the
different angles easy    bob

On Feb 2, 9:28 pm, "curt george"  wrote:
> Hello everyone.
>
> just a short note.
>
> I saw this chair in a magazine, I liked it so I scanned it to show everyone.
>
> What do you think???
>
> I think this might be a good project.
>
> talk to you all latter.
>
> C.A.G.
>
>  Scan035, January 31, 2009.JPG
> 171KViewDownload
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To post to this group, send email to Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---

84 matches

Mail list logo