Re: 4 LOM VHS tapes

2019-10-20 Thread John Sasinowski 

Hi Bill.

I believe these are the same 10 projects that are in the project book 
that came with the mill.
Note that they pre-date some of the later features & accessories - 
there’s no Z-axis, for example.


The names & descriptions are mine, from a quick scan of the videos + my 
aging memory :-)


1. Candlestick (rope spiral, indexed flutes on the base)

2. Walking stick (hammer head grip, spirals)

3. Lamp (router bit turnings, fluting)

4. Jewelry box (approximating gently flowing curves w/a core box bit 
when making a moulding)


5. Picture frame (moulding w/multiple router bit profiles)

6. Hallway table legs (spiral sections & mortices)

7. Cabriole legs (template routing)

8. Ornamental serving dish (rotary table for bowl & base, spiral column)

9. Octagonal box (rotary table work, including indexed & continuous cuts 
to make rosettes for each face)


10. Flag box (pattern from plunging cutter)

John

On 19 Oct 2019, at 15:51, bulke...@mmnet.com.au wrote:


Can one of you guys tell me what the 10 projects are on the 2 tapes



Bill



From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
 On Behalf Of MWF

Sent: Sunday, 20 October 2019 2:27 AM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: 4 LOM VHS tapes



Hi John,

Thanks.

I'd like them.

What's the S&H to Virginis - 22192.

Thanks.

Mac

  _



-----Original Message-
From: John Sasinowski
Sent: Oct 19, 2019 11:15 AM
To: Legacy Group
Subject: 4 LOM VHS tapes

Hi all.

I have four VHS tapes from Legacy Woodworking Machinery / Phantom 
Engineering that I no longer need.

If you’re interested, they’re yours for the cost of shipping.

Here are the titles:

*   Legacy Ornamental Mill Assembly Video 1000/1500 EX
*   Legacy Ornamental Mill EX Series Fast Start Video
*   Ornamental Milling Projects 1 - 5
*   Ornamental Milling Projects 6 - 10

Thanks!

John

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Re: 4 LOM VHS tapes

2019-10-20 Thread John Sasinowski 

Wow, the response was so much faster than I had expected!
Here I thought I might see something next week :-)

Thanks, Tim, for your comment below. I received responses from both you 
and Mac with the same timestamp down to the minute, and was about to dig 
into the mail headers to resolve which response arrived first.


@Mac: I’ll follow up with you offline on shipping details.

Thanks.

John

On 19 Oct 2019, at 8:29, Tim Ziegler wrote:


Go ahead for Mac OK, I'm good with that as it looks like we shot both
emails
at the same time.
Mac I'm good with you getting them.

Kind Regards,

Timothy J. Ziegler
Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
14171 160th Ave.
Foreston MN 56330

320-294-5798 shop
320-630-2243 cell


On Sat, Oct 19, 2019 at 10:27 AM MWF  wrote:


Hi John,
Thanks.
I'd like them.
What's the S&H to Virginis - 22192.
Thanks.
Mac
--

-Original Message-
From: John Sasinowski
Sent: Oct 19, 2019 11:15 AM
To: Legacy Group
Subject: 4 LOM VHS tapes

Hi all.

I have four VHS tapes from Legacy Woodworking Machinery / Phantom
Engineering that I no longer need.
If you’re interested, they’re yours for the cost of shipping.

Here are the titles:

   - Legacy Ornamental Mill Assembly Video 1000/1500 EX
   - Legacy Ornamental Mill EX Series Fast Start Video
   - Ornamental Milling Projects 1 - 5
   - Ornamental Milling Projects 6 - 10

Thanks!

John

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4 LOM VHS tapes

2019-10-19 Thread John Sasinowski 

Hi all.

I have four VHS tapes from Legacy Woodworking Machinery / Phantom 
Engineering that I no longer need.

If you’re interested, they’re yours for the cost of shipping.

Here are the titles:

* Legacy Ornamental Mill Assembly Video 1000/1500 EX
* Legacy Ornamental Mill EX Series Fast Start Video
* Ornamental Milling Projects 1 - 5
* Ornamental Milling Projects 6 - 10

Thanks!

John

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Re: merry christmas

2017-12-24 Thread John Sasinowski 
Happy Christmas everyone!

- John


On Sun, Dec 24, 2017 at 2:13 PM, Carsten Stigers  wrote:

> Merry Christmas to all. It is nice to once again hear that phrase used in
> stores here in the US.
>
> Carsten Stigers
> 1st Vice CMDR/ Chaplain
> Requin Base USSVI
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: MAX LATHAM 
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills 
> Sent: Sun, Dec 24, 2017 5:02 pm
> Subject: Re: merry christmas
>
> Ad that's A Merry Christmas!
> And to all, Merry Christmas
> max
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com  googlegroups.com> on behalf of Arkady Paka 
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 24, 2017 3:20 PM
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: merry christmas
>
> Merry Christmas from Ukraine to evrybody.
> I want to note that for the first time in the history of independent
> Ukraine Christmas is celebrated as an official holiday.
>
> Arkady.
>
>
> 2017-12-24 22:39 GMT+02:00 Bill Bulkeley :
>
> How about this Christmas we have every member post a Christmas hello to
> show how many members are watching i’d like to hear from every one so
> please post a Christmas hello to the group everyone don’t be shy
>
> Bill
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Bulkeley
> *Sent:* Monday, 25 December 2017 7:06 AM
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* merry christmas
>
> Ho ho ho well its Christmas morning here now i hope Santa got me something
> woodwork related,
> Merry Christmas to all from down under.hope you all have a great day when
> Christmas day reaches you all as well.
>
> Bill
>
>
> 
> Virus-free.
> 
> www.avg.com
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Re: Legacy for sale on E-bay Dayton OH.

2017-07-02 Thread John Sasinowski 
Hi Bill.

I believe the part you circled is a mounting point for a redesigned gear
cover.

When I ordered a motor drive kit for my mill many moons ago, it included
that bracket and a smaller gear cover that rotated out of the way.
I have seen pictures of an earlier gear cover design which was a large,
thin box.

I don't see the gear cover in any of the photos of the eBay posting.

- John


On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 8:29 PM, Bill Bulkeley  wrote:

> Interesting, anybody know what this part is on his mill
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *CURTIS GEORGE
> *Sent:* Monday, 3 July 2017 9:37 AM
> *To:* Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
> *Subject:* Legacy for sale on E-bay Dayton OH.
>
>
>
> Hello everyone
>
> I just saw this Legacy for sale, ON E-bay its not a steal/ cheap. But for
> what its worth you do get a lot here...
>
>
>
> Check it out for your self.
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-
> Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router-/192233509536?hash=item2cc20292a0:g:
> yBYAAOSwnK9ZVn7P
>
>
>
>
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> ·
>
> ·
>
> [image: Legacy-Woodworking-Ornamental-Router-Mill-Model-1200-with-Router]
>
> *Have one to sell?* *Sell now*
> 
> *Legacy Woodworking Ornamental Router Mill Model 1200 with Router*
>
>
>
> *[image: Popular] 1 viewed per hour*
>
>
>
> Email to friendsShare on Facebook - opens in a new window or tab
> Share
> on Twitter - opens in a new window or tab
> Share
> on Pinterest - opens in a new window or tab
> 
>
> | Add to watch list
> 
>
>
> *Seller information*
>
> *madibarb*  (129
> 
>  )
>
> 100% Positive feedback
>
>
>
>  Follow this seller
> 
>
>
>
> See other items
> 
>
>
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>
>
>
> Item condition:
>
> *Used*
>
>
>
> Time left:
>
> Time left:27d 17h 7/30, 12:40PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Price:
>
> *US $4,200.00*
>
> From $196 for 24 months *
>
> *Buy It Now*
>

Re: Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??

2017-06-27 Thread John Sasinowski 
In addition to the deeper plunging, the Z axis can also provide greater
control when lowering the router into work.

It's not so bad if you only make height changes while the router is off to
the side of the workpiece, out of contact with it, when you lower it.  The
little turrets which help you make even steps down are helpful here.

It's more of a concern if you need to plunge the router deeper into the
workpiece while in contact with it.  The Z axis allows you to control the
downward speed of the router better (slower, smoother motions).

The Z axis is also equipped with a digital depth readout which is nice.  As
with many things, I'm sure something similar can, and likely has, been done
for plunge router configurations.

- John


On Tue, Jun 27, 2017 at 3:38 AM, Bill Bulkeley 
wrote:

> The z axis gives you a much deeper reach than a plunge router . i went
> even further and had it tilt
>
> http://ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/tilting-z-axis/index.html
>
>
>
> which let me do things like in this
>
> http://ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/Candlestick/index.html
>
>
>
> and also this could be made as well even though i did it on a modified revo
>
> http://www.ornamentalmills.com/Bill_Bulkeley/bolts/index.html
>
>
>
> having a z axis and tilting it opens up a whole new area of ornamental
> milling. in my opinion that’s what is the advantage of a z axis
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard Ellis
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 27 June 2017 7:52 PM
> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
> *Subject:* Z axis advantage or disadvantage ??
>
>
>
> Can someone explain the advantage of having an Z axis as opposed to a
> plunge router.
>
> I have both the Woodchuck and the Revo, and the best, in my opinion and it
> may be only my opinion and not others!!!
>
>
>
> These two LOM's seem to work well together. Although the Revo rails could
> be a little longer
>
>
>
> I have set the wheels in motion for getting a drive motor/ speed control,
> limit switches etc for the Revo,
>
> I already have the leadscrew motor on the Woodchuck,, absolute godsend and
> even more so with the spindle drive motor that I have
> fittedVari.speed.
>
> As Curtis mentioned in a past post it allows for a more relaxed time in
> the shop and allows one time to do other things.such as keeping out
> of the way of wood chips and router dust!?
>
> In my next post I will say how I have mounted my Revo to a bench, in an
> effort to save space, and get to front and rear of it
>
> Regards
>
> Richard
>
> --
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Re: Hey New Guys!

2016-09-01 Thread John Sasinowski 
No, I'm afraid I don't have any equipment built by Haas.
The CNC mill in my garage was made by Tormach.

- John


On Thu, Sep 1, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Tim Krause  wrote:

> I would show how to setup a cnc but I doubt few members own any equipment
> built by Haas!
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Bill Bulkeley 
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 01, 2016 3:27 PM
> *Subject:* RE: Hey New Guys!
>
> I’m guessing not curt or Tim would be doing some posts on setting up and
> using a cnc mill
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Krause
> *Sent:* Friday, 2 September 2016 8:07 AM
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: Hey New Guys!
>
>
>
> Three members from legacy are signed up to receive emails.  I have know
> idea if the read any of the messages.
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* MWF 
>
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 01, 2016 1:48 PM
>
> *Subject:* RE: Hey New Guys!
>
>
>
> Michael,
>
> I do not know if  Legacy, the corporation, still subscribes to/reads posts
> to our Group.  Tim may be able to shed light on that.
>
> I know they used to - because, on rare occasion, Tracy (or someone else
> from Legacy) would make a comment or clarify something that was being
> bantered about on our postings.
> I don't think I have seen any evidence of them still "monitoring" our
> Group.  Like you stated - that's a shame and disappointing.
> Mac
> --
> --
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Michael Kratky
> Sent: Sep 1, 2016 3:03 PM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: Hey New Guys!
>
>
> Interesting subject, just had the same conversation with a semi active
> member of the struggling Mohawk Valley Woodturners club that I belong to as
> they include all members active or inactive in their announcements and
> email blasts,  the theory being that  it doesn’t hurt and you never know;
> what stirs the pot is when the leadership coordinates a special events like
> a picnic or outings such as to  Ideal Wood Products in Little Falls who
> make custom wooden stairs and parts with CNC and by hand or to the nearby
> Rawlings Adirondack baseball bat factory in Dolgeville. Having said that if
> somehow lethargic Legacy took and interest in this group interest would
> spike.
>
> Michael P Kratky
> --
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Krause
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 01, 2016 11:49 AM
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: Hey New Guys!
>
> I'm thinking about deleting all members that have not posted a message in
> a year.  Any thoughts?
>
> -Tim
> --
> --
>
> *Franklin was right* - when the "Takers" outnumber the "Makers" - the
> Republic is DOOMED!
>
> "*When the people find that they can vote themselves money - that will
> herald the end of The Republic*." Benjamin Franklin
>
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> No virus found in this message.
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Re: Anyone interested in Legacy's Design Kits?

2015-12-31 Thread John Sasinowski 
Thank you for the interest, Michael.
I'm afraid they've already been taken.

- John


On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 7:19 AM, Michael Kratky 
wrote:

> Hi John,
>
>
>
> I’ll buy them from you; now just retired (today) I can finally start using
> the LOM 1200 I bought years ago.
>
>
>
> Let me know how to pay you.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Michael P. Kratky*
>
> 119 Riverview Road
>
> Northville, N.Y. 12134
>
> (518) 863-2821
>
> krat...@roadrunner.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *John Sasinowski
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 30, 2015 11:45 PM
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Anyone interested in Legacy's Design Kits?
>
>
>
> I found two of them while cleaning out my house.
>
> Neither has been used - and given my current propensity for working in CAD
> when I need to produce drawings, I don't see myself using them.
>
>
>
> For those who may not be familiar with them, they include:
>
>- A long, somewhat narrow pad of ruled paper for working out normal
>'turnings'
>- A square pad of polar-ruled paper for rotary table work.
>- A set of plastic templates that provide the profiles of many Magnate
>tool bits
>- A videotape and instructions
>
> I only have one box, so I'd prefer they both went to the same new home.
>
>
>
> If you're interested, please contact me off-list.
>
> Cover the shipping costs, and they're yours!  :-)
>
>
>
> - John
>
>
>
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Anyone interested in Legacy's Design Kits?

2015-12-30 Thread John Sasinowski 
I found two of them while cleaning out my house.
Neither has been used - and given my current propensity for working in CAD
when I need to produce drawings, I don't see myself using them.

For those who may not be familiar with them, they include:

   - A long, somewhat narrow pad of ruled paper for working out normal
   'turnings'
   - A square pad of polar-ruled paper for rotary table work.
   - A set of plastic templates that provide the profiles of many Magnate
   tool bits
   - A videotape and instructions

I only have one box, so I'd prefer they both went to the same new home.

If you're interested, please contact me off-list.
Cover the shipping costs, and they're yours!  :-)

- John

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Re: OK guys. Introducing the Shop Smith OT attachment.

2015-04-24 Thread John Sasinowski 
Nice use of a boring head!


On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Cole Andrews 
wrote:

> You have now elevated your status to jig master elite.
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 24, 2015 at 12:17 PM, CURTIS GEORGE 
> wrote:
> > TWO tests.
> >
> > C.A.G.
> >
> > 
> > From: "CURTIS GEORGE" 
> > To: curtgeo...@wowway.com
> > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 12:12:56 PM
> > Subject: Re: OK guys. Introducing the Shop Smith OT attachment.
> >
> > Woops some photos did not go through. Hopefully these will?
> > C.A.G.
> >
> > 
> > From: "CURTIS GEORGE" 
> > To: "Curtis George" , "Legacy-Ornamental-Mills"
> > 
> > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 12:10:05 PM
> > Subject: Fwd: OK guys. Introducing the Shop Smith OT attachment.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> > From: "CURTIS GEORGE" 
> > To: "Legacy-Ornamental-Mills" 
> > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2015 12:07:11 PM
> > Subject: OK guys. Introducing the Shop Smith OT attachment.
> >
> > Hello Everyone
> > Here are a few pictures of my newest jig, It is my version of an
> ornamental
> > jig that use to be sold under the Nova OT name. (You are right SS OT is a
> > better name.) (thanks! ;-)) This jig is really is just an indexing
> > system, where the ShopSmith is the motor that dose the cutting instead of
> > the router. As you can see Ive used a few Legacy parts for this jig.
> > This jig works more like a Holtzapffel lathe.than anything else on the
> > market.  I have an Eccentric chuck that holds a cutter (mounted on the
> SS)
> > So far Ive only been doing test type of cuts, face plate and some side
> > cutting,  I have some pictures of a few of my tests, If you want I can
> post
> > them?
> > At this time this jig is not fully finished, I still have some parts that
> > need to be made, and a lot more testing to do with it. (I did not want to
> > keep you people waiting, for me to get all the part made before I
> un-valed
> > this.)
> > In the pictures you can see the machine, Y axis slide (an old craftsman
> > steel lathe.) The lead screw works so I can use the screw drive or use
> the
> > handle to move the Y axis. I have a fine control stop where I can
> control Y
> > axis movement, I also made a angle control slide so that I can adjust the
> > angle of the part if need be.
> > I am hoping that this jig will help me get more control over some
> elements
> > that the Legacy can not do as well.Things like face plate turning and
> fine
> > (small embellishments..) that at this time I can not do with my mill
> alone.
> >
> > any questions are as always welcome.
> > talk to you all latter.
> > C.A.G.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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Re: Index Plates

2015-04-08 Thread John Sasinowski 
Mea culpa - I had originally typed "a flat twisted column with 7
sides/starts" but somehow that was elided during editing.


On Wed, Apr 8, 2015 at 10:20 PM MWF  wrote:

> I "followed" you fine - until the last sentence.
> Why the "multiple of 7"?
> Mac
> --
> --
>
> -Original Message-
> From: John Sasinowski
> Sent: Apr 9, 2015 1:06 AM
> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: Index Plates
>
> With each index plate comes the ability to evenly space all integer
> divisors (no remainder) of the number of positions.
>
> So, a 36-hole plate allows divisions 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, and 36.
> A 40-hole plate allows 1, 2, 4, 5, 8, 10, 20, and 40.
>
> Some of the divisions are available on multiple plates - in the case of
> this pair, 1, 2 and 4.
> Many are unique to one plate.
>
> Say you wanted to mill slots around the bottom of a coat-rack post to hold
> 5 legs evenly spaced.
> You could do that with the 40-hole plate, but not he 36-hole one.
>
> If you wanted to do a flat twisted column, neither of these plates will
> suffice - you'd need a plate with the number of holes being a multiple of
> 7: 7, 14, 21, 35, 49, etc.
>
> - John
> --
> --
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2015 at 9:40 PM Dewell Crews  wrote:
>
>> Can someone please tell me what I could possible make that would require
>> the use of a 36 and/or 40 position index plate(s)?
>> BTW:My previous two posts indicate "me" as the author of those posts. If
>> this (one) does also; please let me note that my name is Dewell and I
>> transplanted myself from Florida to Oregon 15 months ago.
>> Was it you Curtis (CAG) who wanted me to send you the MA 12 videos a
>> couple of years ago, so you could copy them? Or was it someone else? I
>> stand ready to assist you. Please identify yourself.
>> Be cool and always...SAFETY FIRST!
>>
>> --
>>
>  --
>
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Re: Index Plates

2015-04-08 Thread John Sasinowski 
With each index plate comes the ability to evenly space all integer
divisors (no remainder) of the number of positions.

So, a 36-hole plate allows divisions 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, and 36.
A 40-hole plate allows 1, 2, 4, 5, 8, 10, 20, and 40.

Some of the divisions are available on multiple plates - in the case of
this pair, 1, 2 and 4.
Many are unique to one plate.

Say you wanted to mill slots around the bottom of a coat-rack post to hold
5 legs evenly spaced.
You could do that with the 40-hole plate, but not he 36-hole one.

If you wanted to do a flat twisted column, neither of these plates will
suffice - you'd need a plate with the number of holes being a multiple of
7: 7, 14, 21, 35, 49, etc.

- John


On Wed, Apr 8, 2015 at 9:40 PM Dewell Crews  wrote:

> Can someone please tell me what I could possible make that would require
> the use of a 36 and/or 40 position index plate(s)?
> BTW:My previous two posts indicate "me" as the author of those posts. If
> this (one) does also; please let me note that my name is Dewell and I
> transplanted myself from Florida to Oregon 15 months ago.
> Was it you Curtis (CAG) who wanted me to send you the MA 12 videos a
> couple of years ago, so you could copy them? Or was it someone else? I
> stand ready to assist you. Please identify yourself.
> Be cool and always...SAFETY FIRST!
>
> --
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> .
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>

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Re: Improving Mill Base

2014-07-21 Thread John Sasinowski 
Brandon,

I haven't posted information on my Legacy stand project yet (I wanted to
add some storage before posting it), but the design might be helpful.

Essentially, I adapted the support structure from a Fine Woodworking
article to build the stand.  It uses laminated plywood to build a very
sturdy stand without needing anything fancy for joinery. Clearly
overengineered for the Legacy, but that's better than some alternatives :-)

For mobility, I used these:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2085988/43775/WoodRiver-Workbench-Caster-Set-4-piece.aspx
After looking at several variations on the theme, I liked these because
they bolt directly to the posts (no expectations of building a frame in
which the mobile tool sets), which helps with floor clearance. They also
attach to straight posts, unlike another design that expected the slanted
support posts of some stands (such as those for contractor saws, drill
presses, sanders, and the like).

I'll try to post some photos soon - even without the finishing touches in
place.

- John



On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 7:58 PM,  wrote:

> Brandon,
>
> I own a Shopsmith and they have a very well engineered retractable wheel
> set.  The casters in the OEM kit are "ok".  However, you can probably
> modify them with better wheels.  They even sell replacement casters that
> perform very well.  Search their website or call them for all the details
> (their Customer Service Reps are EXCELLENT!).  They are designed to allow
> you to step on a lever that puts the casters in any one of three positions:
> 1. Raised off floor - so machine rests on its fixed feet/base;  2. Lowered
> to raise machine up about a quarter of an inch;  3. Lowered to raise
> machine up about a half inch (allows you to roll over small "obstacles"
> like wood chips, floor cracks, bumps, slow kids, etc.)
>
> Here is a link to the OEM casters on Shopsmith's site:
> http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/pl_casters.htm
>
> I feel that with "Joe Biunno/Bill Bulkeley ingenuity" you can get the
> Shopsmith casters to solve the mobility part of your challenges.
>
> As for Bill's recommendations - I agree.  Figure out exactly where you
> will want the Mill's "Duty Location" to be.  Mark the 4 corners/leg
> positions, and move the Mill aside.  Snap a chalkline diagonally from
> corner to corner.  At the intersection place a brick or block of wood that
> is about 2" high.  Get a 4 foot (or longer) level.  Place one end of level
> on brick/block - then swing it to the four Mill "leg" locations - measuring
> how far level is from floor at all four spots.  You now know which foot is
> the highest, lowest, and in-betweens.  You can now do the math to figure
> out how much you will need to build up the one, two, or three leg spots to
> have the Mill's feet ALL resting on the same plane.  Note: rather than
> making the "buildup" permanent - you may  want to fabricate 1, 2, or 3
> "shim blocks" that you can temporarily "attach" to the floor using
> double-sided tape.  Just be sure you account for the added thickness of the
> tape and LABEL each with which spot it goes on.
>
> NOTE: If you have (or a friend has) a rotary laser you don't need the 4'
> level.  Just put laser on a block at the intersection of the diagonals. (On
> block because it's easier to measure when you are ~6" to 12" off the floor
> than right down there in the 1/2" to 3/4" area.)  Then turn laser on and
> take readings on a ruler placed vertical at all four leg locations.  Then
> do the math, build-up, etc, as described above.
>
> I hope the above is "clear as a bell" and helps you solve a challenge.
>
> Mac
>
> --
> --
> >From: Bill Bulkeley
> >Sent: Jul 19, 2014 9:07 PM
> >To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> >Subject: Re: Improving Mill Base
> >
> >if you have the height in your shop have you considered mounting you mill
> >vertical an idea i believe curt had at one time
> >or perhaps making mounting points in the floor all level i did that in my
> >old shop wouldn't matter what the floor is like then the mill would be
> level
> >and you can still move it for room just set it up on the level points
> when
> >you want to use it
> >Bill
> --
> --
> >- Original Message -
> >From: "Brandon Khoury"
> >To:
> >Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2014 10:43 AM
> >Subject: Improving Mill Base
> >
> >
> >I am looking for ideas on improving the base of my 1000ex. There are a
> >couple of goals I wish to accomplish.
> >
> >First, my shop is in the basement of a 117 year old Victorian. I don't
> >know how long ago the basement floor was poured, but it is uneven due so
> >settling. The center of the floor is higher than the areas around the
> >walls. So, my first goal is to stiffen up the mill to reduce twisting
> along
> >the long rails.
> >
> >Second, space in the shop is limited and the base takes up a lot of real
> >estate. Adding some storage wou

Re: Does the company still exist?

2014-02-11 Thread John Sasinowski 
Dan, do look through all that's available on
http://www.legacywoodworking.com if you haven't done so.   You'll find
instructional material there that can actually be more useful than what's
in the printed manual as it includes color photographs. I find the manual
is most useful for assembling the machine, but this doesn't sound like what
you're looking for.

Beyond that, check out the resources that others have suggested - and don't
hesitate to cut up some scrap lumber and play around a bit!  :-)




On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 5:32 PM, Okla Mike (Liltwisted) <
legacym...@iglide.net> wrote:

>  Yes they do exist.  Still in business.
> Be patient Dan there are a few time zones to cover so you will get what
> you want.  In the meantime, have a look at these
> http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol1.pdf
> http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol2.pdf
> http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol3.pdf
> http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol4.pdf
> http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol5.pdf
> http://gftsi.com/legacy/OMvol6.pdf
> Good info in there
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> On 2/11/2014 7:14 PM, Dan Appel wrote:
>
> Like several others who have said that they are having a very difficult time 
> actually talking to anyone at Legacy, I am wondering if our sad economy 
> hasn't done them in.  Has anyone actually talked to a real live person there 
> recently?
>
> These are tough times and I wonder if Legacy isn't a casualty of our economy. 
>  Tough business environment out there with a lot of small business people 
> doing their best to keep afloat!
>
> Which brings up an urgent need I have:  As I stated in another post, I have 
> recently been given the use of a 1000, but there is no documentation/manual.  
> Anyone have one for that manual?  Also, the Fast Start video.  Especially if 
> they are out of business, then my only hope is a copy - either of a DVD or a 
> DVD copy of a video tape.
>
> Can anyone please help me out?
>
> Dan
>
>
>
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Re: magnate

2013-12-29 Thread John Sasinowski 
I ordered a few things from them in the last week or so.
Their site was incredibly slow and frequently timed out.
With patience (and working on other things in other browser tabs), I was
able to find what I wanted and place my order.
The experience was far from pleasant - for their sake I hope it's a
temporary situation.

- John



On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 10:59 PM, Bill Bulkeley wrote:

> Has anybody been on magnates sight recently I can’t seem to navigate
> around it, it keeps freezing
>
> Is anybody else having this trouble
>
> Bill
>
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Re: Legacy 900 in Shreveport, LA asking $1500

2013-12-05 Thread John Sasinowski 
I second Louis's caution.

Be sure you read up on eBay's protection policies - and their stance on
people selling an item on the side instead.
Check with PayPal as well.

At the end of the day:
The deal may be legit.
The person on the other end of the email may be a decent, honest person.
On the other hand, you might just get a box of rocks - if anything at all.
 Then who are you going to call?

Despite all the issues you read about with eBay, at the end of the day the
seller found a buyer through the service.
Why shouldn't the seller live up to his end of the bargain that found him a
buyer?

My advice: Respond that you appreciate his position, but that you are only
interested in the deal as original agreed upon: $1500 via eBay, paid via
PayPal.
The seller can either agree to your terms, or you walk.
Then watch for him to re-list it.

- John



On Thu, Dec 5, 2013 at 2:22 PM, Louis Brown  wrote:

> I would only buy it on ebay, even if it costs more.  It is like
> insurance.
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 5, 2013 at 2:57 PM, Arkady Paka  wrote:
>
>> Hi guys.
>> Need help. I want buy this Legacy 900 for $1500.
>> Yesterday he wrote
>> *hey I had this listed on ebay, I can relist there so you can purchase it
>> and have record of the sale thru pay-pal! same price with free shipping! as
>> we agreed! ron*
>> Today he say
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *hey I just realized to list on ebay will cost almost $200 extra for the
>> listing and the sellers fees- so can you just pay thru pay-pal to (.)
>> unless you want to ad the $200 for the fees! ron Is it safe way to
>> purchasethis item?Thanks.Arkady.*
>> пятница, 29 ноября 2013 г., 12:30:44 UTC+2 пользователь Begat написал:
>>
>>> Hello All,
>>>
>>> Here's a 900 in Shreveport, LA.  Asking 900 for a unit that comes with
>>> an upgraded Z axis.
>>>
>>> http://shreveport.craigslist.org/tls/4214247302.html
>>>
>>> Begat
>>>
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Re: joining two machines...progress report

2013-08-31 Thread John Sasinowski 
Joe,

You asked questions about what you *need* - it can be helpful to rephrase
the questions in terms of *want* to see if you get different answers.

For example: You have to turn a blank into a cylinder, and decide to make
several shallow passes.  You only *need* one carriage, but might *want* to
use two at once set to different depths to turn the cylinder in roughly 1/2
the time.
One can construct similar efficiency arguments for surface planing w/fewer
passes and machining moulding with multiple router bits - be it for
different profiles, machining different sides of a blank, etc.

Some other options: Preparing the next setup while one runs; operating on
different parts of a project at once; running two pieces at  atime.

There are probably other benefits, but two carriages provide opportunities
for efficiency, buying you time which, regardless of machining wood for fun
or profit, translates into money.

- John



On Sat, Aug 31, 2013 at 2:41 PM, finun...@aol.com  wrote:

> @curtis...that is something that i am giving a lot of thopught...would i
> ever need two carriages at the same time?...do i ever need to set up one
> carriage for a specific job and leave the other carriage for other
> operations?...do i keep the other carriage in case i want to split up the
> machines and sell them?...i am also using the cnc upgrade that came with
> the 1800 i recently purchased...if i do, i might want to have one carriage
> set uo to use manually, and another set up with the stepper motor from the
> upgrade kit...on the flip side my budget is maxed out and i still have a
> ways to go, both in labor and materials...so with all that being said, i
> would consider selling the cnc upgrade and a carriage, if i get the right
> money...if you want, you can send a message to me at
> finun...@aol.com...thanks for the interest...joe biunno
> On Saturday, August 31, 2013 3:59:11 PM UTC-4, Curtis wrote:
>>
>>  Joe are you going to use both Legacy carriages on this new machine of
>> yours?
>> C.A.G.
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> *From:* finu...@aol.com
>> *To:* legacy-orna...@**googlegroups.com
>> *Cc:* finu...@aol.com
>> *Sent:* Saturday, August 31, 2013 3:15 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: joining two machines...progress report
>>
>> i also heard of that machine and was told it was 40ft...my guess was that
>> it was a boat shop that was using it...at least they are not making drapery
>> rods,LOL!...i would be curious to know if they are cutting aluminum with
>> that machine...or is it only wood?...and if it is only wood, it most likely
>> is a retro or restoration shop...it would be great to see a photo of that
>> machine...but sometimes these boat guys can be very secretative regarding
>> their methods and techniques...maybe some info will mysteriously appear and
>> an inquiry can be made in regards to seeing a photo of it...might also be
>> interesting to know if anything between that machine and a 2000 was ever
>> made by legacy...good stuff on this thread...thanks guys...joe biunno
>>
>> On Friday, August 30, 2013 5:58:58 PM UTC-4, legacy woodworking wrote:
>>
>>> I remember a conversation with John Hennon and he told me they had made
>>> a legacy for a boat builder, If I remember correctly it was something like
>>> 30 or 40 foot long they used it to make the mast.  I do not remember if it
>>> was a manuel or cnc.  But you may be able to find one
>>>
>>> Jeff Becker
>>>
>>>
>>>  "finu...@aol.com"  wrote:
>>> > @curtis and @jeff...i could get them made at my brother-in-law's sheet
>>> > metal shop...probably no charge as well!,LOL...but being the nut that
>>> i am,
>>> > i would like to keep anything that anyone might expect to be original
>>> to
>>> > the machine as authentic as possible...believe me, if i knew that
>>> there was
>>> > a 15ft base made by legacy out there, i would have gone to great
>>> lengths to
>>> > find one...so i can live with making the base myself, but i will wait
>>> to
>>> > find some legacy panels...and after a reasonable amount of time, if i
>>> have
>>> > not found them, i will resort to making them myself...probably metal
>>> > though...but then i'll need to nail the paint color!...lol...if i had
>>> not
>>> > picked up the 1200 from pittsburgh just last week, i would have been
>>> going
>>> > down to north carolina for that 1800 that just popped up...and then it
>>> > would have been two 1800's!...and no panel issues!...anyway, i have
>>> found
>>> > from experience that if you put some effort into something in the
>>> > beginning, it could pay off down the road...plus i have the added
>>> benefit
>>> > that this is a business improvement/benefit, so going a bit further
>>> than a
>>> > part time user of a machine is more doable for me...but sometimes that
>>> is
>>> > NOT a good thing...anyway, thanks for the input guys...keep it
>>> coming...joe
>>> > biunno
>>> >
>>> > On Friday, August 30, 2013 2:26:40 PM UTC-4, legacy woodworking wrote:
>>> > >
>>> > > Chance are you could get the pa

Re: filling wood

2013-08-19 Thread John Sasinowski 
I've yet to try it myself, but I've read that mixing fine sawdust (sanding
dust?) w/a binder like wood glue can make a putty that matches the wood
you're working with since it is colored by the wood itself.

I understand that this technique may not be relevant in your case as it
sounds like you're going accentuate the imperfections with black.

One other note: When my father was working on a redwood burl table, he
found some areas that needed to be filled.  I ran across some products for
filling cracks with silver or turquoise - probably something similar to, or
the same as, what Mac referred to.

- John



On Mon, Aug 19, 2013 at 11:08 PM, Tim Krause  wrote:

> **
> I know some guys in my woodturning club color automotive body filler with
> what I believe is acrylic pigments.  They then press it into cracks and
> holes.
>
> -Tim
>
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Bill Bulkeley 
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Monday, August 19, 2013 9:50 PM
> *Subject:* filling wood
>
>  Can anyone recommend a filler that I can colour with die or paint i need
> a almost black filler to fill some imperfections
>
> ** **
>
> In a job I’m doing the wood is a red colour and the parts I want to fill
> are almost black so I want to highlight this as i fill the holes, nothing
> larger than a 1/16 inch any body got any ideas i know this is not legacy
> but we all don’t just do legacy stuff can you colour pva glue with die or
> paint and use it as a filler ?
>
> Also after i want to stain and have a gloss finish any ideas are welcome**
> **
>
> ** **
>
> Bill
>
> ** **
>
> --
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Re: 500 EXS (New?) on eBay in Melville, NY - Questions.

2013-07-06 Thread John Sasinowski 
I believe my first LOM was one of these - though I sold it a number of
years ago, so it might have been a similar-but-different model (600EXS
springs to mind...)
All of the following is from memory - your mileage may vary :-)

The gears are plastic.
The rails have the same profile as the Model 1000 series.
There is no Y-axis screw - though you can set stops on Y axis travel.

There is no outer 'cage' like on the Model 1000 and onwards, so you can't
produce a taper by tilting the workpiece.
The diameter of workpieces is limited, as you only have the plunge depth of
your router and you can't lower the workpiece relative to the router.
Said another way, this LOM is like the center section of the more capable
machines - the frame that holds the workpiece, but not the outer rails
which form a cage in which you can move the workpiece frame.

With this LOM, you can mill things round, perform reeding, and spirals.
You could plane material flat if you added a table below the rails.
Devising a template follower shouldn't be hard.

As for accessories that likely work with it: perhaps some of the clamping
attachments.
Many of them require the outer cage rails, so you'd need to fabricate a
substitute.
Extra gear sets won't mesh.

I hope this helps!



On Sat, Jul 6, 2013 at 12:18 PM,  wrote:

>
> I know someone already put this Mill out on the Group's mail - but I have
> a question about it.  (Owner says it is "new" - too bad it never even made
> sawdust for the purchaser.)
>
> --
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221250228707&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:US:1123
> --
>
> Question:  What are the gears made of?  They appear to maybe be plexiglas
> - with the paper film still intact; or maybe a brownish "high-tech"
> plastic?
>
> What do we know about this machine's "pedigree"?  When was this model made
> and are newer machines' parts compatible with it?
> Bill, this may be a source for your needs.
>
> Thanks and have a wonderful weekend.
>
> Mac
> --
> --
>
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Re: No CNC's required

2012-11-02 Thread John Sasinowski 
Here are a few thoughts on the subject.

   - Materials:
  - Over time the materials we work with, and the attitudes we have
  towards them, change.
  - I used to think of veneers as a means to beautiful ornamentation,
  but mostly as a way to cheat and skimp on using good raw materials.  In
  recent years, as the beautiful woods have become scarcer,
veneering can be
  viewed as less a 'cheat' and more a way to conserve precious natural
  resources.
  - I don't recall seeing laminated bamboo anything here in the USA
  while growing up, and now you find it in many places.
  - At the other end of the spectrum, I may read about how to machine
  ivory in old woodworking texts but never expect to ever put that
knowledge
  to use.
  - For me, working with wood led to curiosity about machining metals
  (real mysterious stuff at first!) and now some of the 3D printing
  technologies.
  - Understanding one set of materials can lead to insights and new
  perspectives in others.
   - Machining technology:
  - Tool technology broadened from hand tools, to machines that spin
  cutters and workpieces, to computer controlled motion of each.  Knowledge
  of the earlier technologies is valuable when working with the later ones,
  and the later developments do not obviate the need for the earlier tools.
   I may use a legacy mill, router table, and track guided
circular saws, and
  I may have thoughts of building a CNC woodworking machine, but I still
  enjoy using hand planes and chisels.
  - Like all tools, CNC can be used for good or ill. I personally am
  not usually impressed by attempts to mimic hand carving with a
CNC router.
   On the other hand, CNC can expand one's creative expression to
create less
  rectilinear shapes with good control. In metal working, for
example, manual
  milling of smooth curves that aren't circular segments is very
difficult -
  extend shapes to require 4- or 5- axis motion of a cutter, and you have a
  challenging problem on your hands if you're going to do that manually.
  - New technology can provide alternate ways to accomplish existing
  tasks. If I want to flatten a board, I can: use hand planes; run
it through
  my jointer/planer; put a table in the ornamental mill and
flatten it with a
  bottom-cutting bit. If I had a CNC router, I could use that, too. There
  isn't an obviously universally correct choice.
  - As Tim mentioned, the 3D printers are an interesting new
  technology. I don't know that I want to try to print something that tries
  to look like wood. Rather, it's another set of materials and machining
  options that should further expand what one can build.  A 3D
printer can be
  used to produce an actual desired object.  Its power also lies in the
  ability to truly visualize multiple variations on a design in the
  real-world - you can pick them up, move them around, manipulate them, see
  them in different lighting, etc. Want to experiment with
proportion?  Would
  you rather look at a few drawings or some physical models of your new
  creation?
  - Couple 3D scanning with 3D printing, and you have not just a 3D
  copy machine or replicator, but the ability to say, "I like the shape of
  this object, but I want to make a few edits and change it a bit
to make it
  better fit my needs/aesthetics/desires."

New technologies are best viewed in concert with all that went before,
rather than as fully supplanting them.
I can certainly envision designing a project in CAD software, printing a
few scale models on a 3D printer until I get it right, printing a few jig
components, machining some metal components and jig elements on my CNC
mill, running lumber through my wood shop tools, and fine tuning joinery
with hand tools - maybe even hand carving some decorative details if I
develop those skills.

Of course, the one thing I need more of is time to further explore all of
this...  :-)

OK, back to my real job for a bit...

- John

On Wed, Oct 31, 2012 at 8:44 PM, Tim Krause  wrote:

> **
> Hi Roger,
>
> Intriguing question.  Well, I do see a small trend to makerbot type
> machines that instead of removing material, they are adding materials to
> make shapes.  One could argue with a quality faux wood finish, wood could
> be replaced.  Before you laugh, look at all the wood substitutes already on
> the market in siding, decking and extruded pvc molding.  This is crystal
> ball thinking :-)
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Roger H Phebey 
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 31, 2012 1:37 PM
> *Subject:* RE: No CNC's required
>
>  Hi Curt
>
> In one way I guess you are right that the CNC machine takes away the skill
> and as you rightly point out the same applied when the router replace the
> moulding plan.  However

Re: Test

2012-08-28 Thread John Sasinowski 
This is a response.
On Aug 28, 2012 8:46 PM, "Tim Krause"  wrote:

> **
> I need a responses to this message.
>
> -Tim
>
>
> --
>
>
>

--

Re: Thinking of selling ex1000

2012-01-14 Thread John Sasinowski 
If you part it out (and I'm sure that's not your preference), I would like
the ball bearing lead screw supports.
Thanks.

- John

On Sat, Jan 14, 2012 at 5:03 PM, Tim Krause  wrote:

> If you part it out, I would like the molding video.
>
> -Tim
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "mike" 
> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" 
> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:48 PM
> Subject: Thinking of selling ex1000
>
>
> > Hi,
> > I have a ex100 72"  with the
> >  digital Z axis
> > ball bearing lead screw supports
> > drive motor with limit switches/variable speed
> > 2x gear
> > reverse gears
> > standard gears
> > rotary table
> > home made circle cutting center(1/2" ball bearing mounted on tail
> > stock)
> > extra rail for turning 8'
> > template follower
> > extra split nut and bearing
> > extra(original) carriage for a plunge router
> > design kit
> > molding DVD
> > manuals and video
> >
> > I was wonderig if anybody knew what this might be worth or if anyone
> > would need parts.
> >
> > --
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Re: spiral router bits

2011-07-15 Thread John Sasinowski 
BTW, I've seen advertised, but never used, some bits that are both up &
downcutting so that you have no problem on either edge of sheet goods.
Essentially they shear wood fibers towards the center of the sheet.

On Fri, Jul 15, 2011 at 1:10 PM, Jeff Becker  wrote:

> Sorry, I sent that and still intended to type some information.  Both up
> cut and Down cut bits get the name based on holding a router how it is
>  intended to be held, the same way a router is mounted in a legacy.  With
> the router held with an up cut bit the bit will cut in an upward motion,
> this can cause chips in the wood, if use a downward cut bit this will cut in
> a downward motion and you will have the support of the wood to help prevent
> tear out.  http://www.newwoodworker.com/updowncutbits.html
>
> --
> *From: *"Jeff Becker" 
>
> *To: *legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Sent: *Friday, July 15, 2011 3:53:48 PM
>
> *Subject: *Re: spiral router bits
>
> This is an article that helps you figure the best bit to pick
> http://www.newwoodworker.com/updowncutbits.html
>
> --
> *From: *coleandrew...@gmail.com
> *To: *"curt george" ,
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Sent: *Friday, July 15, 2011 1:01:55 PM
> *Subject: *Re: spiral router bits
>
> So would a downcut and a left handed cut be the same?
>
> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> - Reply message -
> From: "curt george" 
> Date: Fri, Jul 15, 2011 11:24 am
> Subject: spiral router bits
> To: 
>
> Hello Very little.
> depending on the right or left cutting action, The end mills that I like
> are right cut. so they would be the same as an up cutting router bit.
>
> I do not own a Z axis on my Legacy, so to get deeper cuts I own a few 7"
> right cut 1/2"dia. straight cutter/end mill bits. to get me the cutting
> depths that I need for my martial art dummy's (Mook Jongs) .
>
> I just wanted to remind everyone that when there is a will, there is always
> another way to almost anything.
>
> Legacy where your only limitation is your Imagination!!! ;-)
>
> C.A.G.
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* cole andrews 
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Friday, July 15, 2011 11:05 AM
> *Subject:* Re: spiral router bits
>
> What is the difference between an end mill and a spiral upcut?
> On Jul 15, 2011 10:05 AM, "curt george"  wrote:
> > Hello and good morning Bill
> >
> > if you are going to compare apples to apples those prices are hard to
> beat.
> > But... ;-) What I do it to go the local machine shop supply house,
> Production tool supply,(http://www.pts-tools.com/cgi/CGPTHOME ) is the one
> that I use a lot. but I would think there should be something in your area
> as well. If you buy cutters for end mills, you will find that there prices
> are much better than router bits.and you get a much bigger selection of
> sizes and lengths of bit as well. Think of it as Supply and Demand. the
> machine business makes and sells 100% more cutters than what the wood
> working community dose. so there prices are quite a bit lower.(in most
> cases) I don't know if I can beat those prices as a set? but it never hurt
> to look.
> > I will do some shopping on the net today. and we will see what comes of
> it. ;-)
> >
> > Have a great day.
> > And Thanks for the heads up on this one.I dost look to be a pretty good
> deal!
> >
> > C.A.G.
> > - Original Message -
> > From: Bill Bulkeley
> > To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 11:50 PM
> > Subject: spiral router bits
> >
> >
> > I was searching the Internet for some up cut spiral router bits and found
> these I don't know how many of you use or want some but I found this
> > a cheap set I feel, so I thought id pass it along
> > Bill
> >
> > http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/200.html
> >
> > --
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