Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-03 Thread Carl
Vern,

Boy, t5hat S@#$S.
I would be a very unhappy camper if that happened to me. Good luck,
and hope that the repairs go good.

Carl
AB1DD
Cal 34III Nauta


On 5/2/12, Vernon Densler m...@highwayusa.com wrote:
 So not a good day at all.  Got the 3 pump and managed to pump the hull out
 enough to see not only the last thing I expected but the last thing I
 wanted
 to see.  There is a 4 concrete piling skewering my hull.
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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-03 Thread SteveW
Boy, Vern, that really sucks big time!

Presumably, the marina owner takes full responsibility for the damage and 
will cover all the repair costs?  I'm sure there's no comeback in terms of 
the value of lost sailing time but given the way you describe he never told 
you about old pilings I'd hate to see you incur any out of pocket expenses 
to haul and repair.



Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



All outgoing mail protected by VIPRE A/V

-Original Message- 
From: Vernon Densler
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 9:22 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

So not a good day at all.  Got the 3 pump and managed to pump the hull out
enough to see not only the last thing I expected but the last thing I wanted
to see.  There is a 4 concrete piling skewering my hull.  I was able to
slow the water down enough that the sump pump is keeping it almost empty.
While we were working on the boat we felt a crunch.  I thought it was
shifting on the piling and it turns out that there is another piling now
piercing the hull just in front of my board case.  I was told the slip was
shallow when the water was down but was not told that there was all kinds of
debris with pointy ends sticking out of the mud.  The piling in the back is
in the inside of the port hull and the one in the middle towards the front
is on the outside of the port hull.

The marina owner finally showed up at 4:00 and we put a section of PVC drain
pipe under it to try to keep it from going down much more.

He is saying now that he is going to jack the port hull out of the water and
build cradle to hold the hull so we can repair the holes.  Then when the
water comes up high enough to float her out without ripping the hull on the
spikes we will get her out of there.  Hopefully he does this soon so that I
don't get any more damage.

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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-02 Thread Lee Haefele
Depending on what you find, oil soaked rags may make a temp seal.  I use non 
toxic salad oil.  Unless there is something bad in your harbor mud, the Indian 
River water is not toxic, I swam in it to clean boat bottom and lived.

Lee Haefele


On May 1, 2012, at 10:01 PM, JohnB catsai...@gto.net wrote:

 Good stuff. On the MKII there is really no areas of egress for water in 
 the stern, no through hull fittings and motor/s are outboard. Only thing 
 is the skeg which is bolted through the hull  which wouldn't be enough 
 that big pumps couldn't handle.
 
 The tarp is probably the best idea as it would seem to be a hull 
 problem. Having said that the hulls are glass and thick from back when 
 glass was cheap and weight was not a big issue.
 
 JohnB
 s/c Drumbeat Iroquois MKII
 
 On 5/1/2012 9:37 PM, Rufus wrote:
 Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern.
 
 big hole...
 Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged edges, 
 won't help your hands.
 
 pump...
 To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction on 
 the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and rout 
 it for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift out 
 the companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce 
 that will improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it 
 does to eat anything it can reach.
 If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to 25 
 gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look 
 something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take 
 but a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out 
 water to spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false 
 assumptions and _that_ never helps anything.
 
 Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps 
 full, monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want 
 it to. 2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the 
 rudder, prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most 
 likely suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs 
 to suit; West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under 
 most of the after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so 
 it stays in place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only 
 the one pump in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of 
 barnacles.
 
 Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores is 
 probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for under water 
 and it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8 sticks or tubes; 
 temporary, of course. It's pretty stiff; sets in about 10 minutes after 
 kneading parts together
 
 Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to drive 
 than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use battens 
 to aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box stores 
 (HD at least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but check a 
 piece for bend-ability before planning on it.
 
 IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas from 
 an (house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would work for 
 you. You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability.
 
 Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and 
 you'll just find a hose off a through-hull or something.
 
 Rufus
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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-02 Thread Vernon Densler
Wondering if the stern locker is full from the skeg breaking off and if the
water looked like it wasn't going down because it was coming from there as I
pumped it out.  I guess I will find out soon.  2 pump should almost be
enough to pump the whole river out.

-Original Message-
From: liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com
[mailto:liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com] On Behalf Of JohnB
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 10:01 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

Good stuff. On the MKII there is really no areas of egress for water in the
stern, no through hull fittings and motor/s are outboard. Only thing is the
skeg which is bolted through the hull  which wouldn't be enough that big
pumps couldn't handle.

The tarp is probably the best idea as it would seem to be a hull problem.
Having said that the hulls are glass and thick from back when glass was
cheap and weight was not a big issue.

JohnB
s/c Drumbeat Iroquois MKII

On 5/1/2012 9:37 PM, Rufus wrote:
 Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern.

 big hole...
 Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged
edges, won't help your hands.

 pump...
 To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction
on the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and
rout it for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift
out the companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce
that will improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it
does to eat anything it can reach.
 If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to
25 gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look
something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take
but a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out
water to spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false
assumptions and _that_ never helps anything.

 Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps
full, monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want
it to. 2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the
rudder, prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most
likely suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs
to suit; West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under
most of the after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so
it stays in place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only
the one pump in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of
barnacles.

 Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores 
 is probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for 
 under water and it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8 
 sticks or tubes; temporary, of course. It's pretty stiff; sets in 
 about 10 minutes after kneading parts together

 Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to
drive than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use
battens to aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box
stores (HD at least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but
check a piece for bend-ability before planning on it.

 IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas
from an (house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would
work for you. You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability.

 Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and
you'll just find a hose off a through-hull or something.

 Rufus
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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-02 Thread Vernon Densler
So not a good day at all.  Got the 3 pump and managed to pump the hull out
enough to see not only the last thing I expected but the last thing I wanted
to see.  There is a 4 concrete piling skewering my hull.  I was able to
slow the water down enough that the sump pump is keeping it almost empty.
While we were working on the boat we felt a crunch.  I thought it was
shifting on the piling and it turns out that there is another piling now
piercing the hull just in front of my board case.  I was told the slip was
shallow when the water was down but was not told that there was all kinds of
debris with pointy ends sticking out of the mud.  The piling in the back is
in the inside of the port hull and the one in the middle towards the front
is on the outside of the port hull.  

The marina owner finally showed up at 4:00 and we put a section of PVC drain
pipe under it to try to keep it from going down much more.

He is saying now that he is going to jack the port hull out of the water and
build cradle to hold the hull so we can repair the holes.  Then when the
water comes up high enough to float her out without ripping the hull on the
spikes we will get her out of there.  Hopefully he does this soon so that I
don't get any more damage.  

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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-02 Thread JohnB
Wow!

JohnB

On 5/2/2012 9:22 PM, Vernon Densler wrote:
 So not a good day at all.  Got the 3 pump and managed to pump the hull out
 enough to see not only the last thing I expected but the last thing I wanted
 to see.  There is a 4 concrete piling skewering my hull.  I was able to
 slow the water down enough that the sump pump is keeping it almost empty.
 While we were working on the boat we felt a crunch.  I thought it was
 shifting on the piling and it turns out that there is another piling now
 piercing the hull just in front of my board case.  I was told the slip was
 shallow when the water was down but was not told that there was all kinds of
 debris with pointy ends sticking out of the mud.  The piling in the back is
 in the inside of the port hull and the one in the middle towards the front
 is on the outside of the port hull.

 The marina owner finally showed up at 4:00 and we put a section of PVC drain
 pipe under it to try to keep it from going down much more.

 He is saying now that he is going to jack the port hull out of the water and
 build cradle to hold the hull so we can repair the holes.  Then when the
 water comes up high enough to float her out without ripping the hull on the
 spikes we will get her out of there.  Hopefully he does this soon so that I
 don't get any more damage.

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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-01 Thread Rufus
Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern.

 big hole...

Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged edges, 
won't help your hands.

 pump...

To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction on 
the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and rout it 
for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift out the 
companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce that will 
improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it does to eat 
anything it can reach. 
If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to 25 
gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look 
something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take but 
a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out water to 
spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false assumptions and 
_that_ never helps anything. 

Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps full, 
monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want it to. 
2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the rudder, 
prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most likely 
suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs to suit; 
West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under most of the 
after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so it stays in 
place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only the one pump 
in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of barnacles.

Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores is 
probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for under water and 
it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8 sticks or tubes; temporary, of 
course. It's pretty stiff; sets in about 10 minutes after kneading parts 
together

Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to drive 
than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use battens to 
aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box stores (HD at 
least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but check a piece for 
bend-ability before planning on it. 

IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas from an 
(house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would work for you. 
You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability.

Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and you'll 
just find a hose off a through-hull or something.

Rufus
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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-05-01 Thread JohnB
Good stuff. On the MKII there is really no areas of egress for water in 
the stern, no through hull fittings and motor/s are outboard. Only thing 
is the skeg which is bolted through the hull  which wouldn't be enough 
that big pumps couldn't handle.

The tarp is probably the best idea as it would seem to be a hull 
problem. Having said that the hulls are glass and thick from back when 
glass was cheap and weight was not a big issue.

JohnB
s/c Drumbeat Iroquois MKII

On 5/1/2012 9:37 PM, Rufus wrote:
 Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern.

 big hole...
 Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged edges, 
 won't help your hands.

 pump...
 To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction on 
 the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and rout 
 it for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift out the 
 companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce that 
 will improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it does to 
 eat anything it can reach.
 If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to 25 
 gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look 
 something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take 
 but a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out 
 water to spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false 
 assumptions and _that_ never helps anything.

 Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps full, 
 monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want it to. 
 2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the rudder, 
 prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most likely 
 suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs to suit; 
 West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under most of 
 the after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so it stays 
 in place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only the one 
 pump in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of barnacles.

 Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores is 
 probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for under water 
 and it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8 sticks or tubes; 
 temporary, of course. It's pretty stiff; sets in about 10 minutes after 
 kneading parts together

 Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to drive 
 than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use battens to 
 aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box stores (HD at 
 least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but check a piece for 
 bend-ability before planning on it.

 IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas from 
 an (house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would work for 
 you. You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability.

 Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and you'll 
 just find a hose off a through-hull or something.

 Rufus
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[Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-04-30 Thread Densler, Vernon R (AS)
I need help.  I have a 30' Iroquois Catamaran that is taking on water.

It's a 75 MKII.  Previous owner had taken the berth out of the port hull so I 
have full access with the board I used to hold the bed removed.  Slip is really 
shallow and with the lack of rain the boat was sitting on the bottom.  Water is 
up a little now.  Possibility that the boat next to mine pushed mine to get out 
of his slip, maybe broke the skeg off?  No visible holes or anything on the 
outside that I can see.  Aft lockers have what I believe are the old water 
built in water tanks.  I don't know if there are any holes that run from the 
old tanks into the boat that haven't been sealed.  Water is at the same level 
as the river.  Bows are still floating stern is sitting on the bottom.  Water 
is just over where the bunk would be in the back and right at the level of the 
lowest step in the front of the berth.  Pumps were a bilge pump and a 1650 GPH 
sump pump in the rear berth and the bilge pump in the head compartment. I was 
not able to get any real difference in the aft berth water level.  When I moved 
the sump pump to the head compartment it cleared out within minutes but then 
back up to where it was within maybe 10 minutes.  Water was coming from the aft 
berth.  Closed the head through hull valve while the water was down just in 
case.  Didn't see any water coming in from any hoses or anything in the head 
compartment.

Part of the water coming in could be things that were not meant to be under the 
water now being under the water but I don't know of any real spots in that area 
that could be adding to it.

Thinking of trying to get a waterbed mattress or 2 and trying to use them to 
either lift from below or stuff them in the hull and displace some of the water 
while I am pumping out.

Any thoughts on raising her and any thoughts on what could possibly be the 
breach point would be appreciated.  Once she is raised I need to determine how 
to patch her enough to either get the breach out of the water to repair or get 
her to a marina with a boat lift.

I don't understand how this could happen on this boat,  the hulls are 1 thick 
glass reinforced plywood.  I have knocked over pilings with it and there wasn't 
even a scratch on her.  Sitting in almost no water and nothing really there to 
harm her and she takes on water.  It doesn't make sense.


Vernon Densler
Logistics Engineer
Northrop Grumman AS
(321)-951-5426

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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-04-30 Thread Flying Pig
Hi, Vern,

That sucks, for sure.

As to the waterbed mattresses, yes, if you don't hole those in the same way 
(assuming there's something there which caused a hole).  Waterbeds are tough, 
but not designed to resist puncture by dedicated force (spent 30+ years on 
waterbeds ashore).  Salvage crews use a heavy duty hypalon version of the same 
thing, in various sizes, to assist with flotation in getting vessels off rocks 
and the like (ask me how I know!). Getting it inflated and closed before losing 
lots of air will be a bit of challenge.

When I lived on a lake, I used to have an AirDock, same principle.  Under the 
boat will be better so you don't risk stressing the hull.

Can you get under the stern(s) to inspect it/them?  I think from your posting 
that it's only the port side?  That could simplify lifting a bit.

Is this a tidal river?

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
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Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

2012-04-30 Thread Ben Okopnik
Hi, Vernon -

On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 01:22:16PM +, Densler, Vernon R (AS) wrote:
 
 Any thoughts on raising her and any thoughts on what could possibly be the
 breach point would be appreciated.
 
 I don't understand how this could happen on this boat,  the hulls are 1” thick
 glass reinforced plywood.  I have knocked over pilings with it and there 
 wasn't
 even a scratch on her.  Sitting in almost no water and nothing really there to
 harm her and she takes on water.  It doesn't make sense.

Water is... extraordinary at finding ways to get in. Sorry to hear it's
managed to do so with your boat.

The first step is to find where the leak is. The old method for patching
(without having to find) the dozens of leaks in wooden ships was to dive
down and release a bunch of wood dust just under the hull; after a
number of handfuls, enough of the stuff would get sucked in to plug the
holes, then would swell and seal them. You could also see where the
leaks were, since the dust would clump around them. It's messy, and
requires getting under the hull, though. You'd also want to pump her
before you did that, otherwise there'd be no suction. A modern
equivalent might be to, again, pump her out and then dive down and hold
some plastic sheeting next to the hull in the suspected area. If it
sticks, you've found it. This would probably require a diving outfit,
though.

Another thought would be to jack the boat up where she sits, in that
shallow slip. Put down some plywood, use some lumber, and prop her up at
high tide. When the tide goes out, you'll see where the water is coming
out; if you need to, throw some dye in the bilge - it'll let you spot
the leak right away.

Try to do what you can to locate the leak from the inside. I had to take
a jigsaw to some plywood in a locker once so I could get to the hull...
poor hull access *sucks*.

Best of luck with it!


Ben
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