Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck SUV

2006-06-28 Thread Marshall Booth

Curt Raymond wrote:

Yup, 90 miles a day. Analysis at ~5000 miles showed soot at .6% but grade had 
fallen to 40. I think I was sloppy and didn't get all the old conventional oil 
out, it was February, I was working outside, sue me.
  I took another sample when I changed at ~7300 miles, we'll see what that 
shows.


Changing the oil when the soot level is 0.6% is wasting more than 2/3rds 
of the soot suspension standard that Mercedes sets (which is 1/2 of what 
most manufacturers set as a limit). If soot levels increase in a linear 
manner (may or may not) then based on what you've said, the oil is 
likely to be changed after~ 15,000+ miles. I don't have ANY idea what 
grade had fallen to 40 means, but in a properly running Mercedes 
diesel, soot capacity is by far the most challenging spec. when running 
a group IV or IV/V synthetic oil. Base number even after 25-30kmi should 
still be entirely adequate even using a CF rated oil and with a CH-4 or 
CI-4 oil it should last a LOT longer.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Mitch Haley
Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Has anybody ever gotten a shop to use one of the alternate refridgerants? 

If I owned the shop, and I was set up for R12 reclaiming (I'd have to be
in order to do R12-134a conversions) I'd suck out your R12 and replace it
with whatever you wanted if you provided me with the refrigerant, conversion
fittings, and adapter so I could hook the cans up to my hoses. After that,
you'd be on your own if I wasn't set up for Autofrost reclaiming. 

Autofrost is trying to sell shops on the idea of not recycling refrigerants
in house, just reclaim everything into the same cylinder and send the cylinder
into a proper recycling shop. Simple, and the shop only needs to have one 
reclaiming
setup for all. Beats having the mystery fluid out of the previous customer's 
car sold
to you as R12. 

I'm still undecided on my 16v and 300SD. I can go w/o A/C (if I remove it, I 
save
weight and gain room for an intercooler) or I can go with Cathey-Cool or 
Autofrost
until I'm sure the car is worthy of my last few lbs of R12.

Mitch.



Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Zeitgeist

Ok, so I stopped by the local outdoor store, but became confused by the
dizzying array of propane/butane/isobutane etc. and beat a hasty retreat
back into my car and a thumb-sucking fetal position.  I thought I wanted
straight isobutane, which they don't carry.  There were some mixtures of all
three and others with just isobutane and propane.  Now it looks like it's ok
for the latter, but not the former--correct?  I've been chemically
challenged since 1965, so please have pity on me.

Thanks for the NAPA tip.  They had to locate a secret squirrel stash up in
the attic, but eventually found some mineral oil for me.

On 6/27/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



DIY, my man.  We're talking about something like $50/car if you have
the tools.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
I see Rusty offers a 9 blade plastic radiator fan for 
the
123s, compared to the stock  6 blade aluminum one.  Has anyone tried 
the 9
blade one to see if it offers any noticeable cooling improvement?  Is 
it

noisier?


It's quieter.  The SDL was forcibly upgraded when it got its new clutch.
(As the old metal-fan rated clutch was NLA.)  It's supposed to cool 
better,

too.  It has asymmetrical blade spacing so that it doesn't howl as much.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-28 Thread Peter Frederick
M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my BS Quantum 
new mower (now six or more years old).  Runs like a champ, I change 
it every year or so...


Peter




[MBZ] Tales

2006-06-28 Thread RELNGSON
Curt posted, in part:

  Last month at camp Dad and I were getting out the lawnmower so we could 
mow where we were planning to plant trees

If you are going to complete with Van Cleef with tales of your youth, or 
maybe last week, you are going to have to become much more verbose. His record 
stands at 1364 words in one post, as I recall.

Topic was fencing, I think.

RLE 


Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan

2006-06-28 Thread P. D. Ferguson
Jim, do you know if the 9 blade fan will fit the stock 123 
clutch?

   Peter
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan



I see Rusty offers a 9 blade plastic radiator fan for
the
123s, compared to the stock  6 blade aluminum one.  Has anyone tried
the 9
blade one to see if it offers any noticeable cooling improvement?  Is
it
noisier?


It's quieter.  The SDL was forcibly upgraded when it got its new clutch.
(As the old metal-fan rated clutch was NLA.)  It's supposed to cool
better,
too.  It has asymmetrical blade spacing so that it doesn't howl as much.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan

2006-06-28 Thread Zeitgeist

Just as long as it doesn't sound like a late-'70's Datsun Z-car.  Man, those
fans sounded like a jet taking off...whaash


Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


[MBZ] Replacing Vacuum Pump Driver

2006-06-28 Thread ned kleinhenz

Rusty is sending me a new injection timing device for my 606 engine because
the vacuum pump cam of the old one is in bad shape.
I've been fretting over the special tools and procedures needed to RR the
injection pump as the shop manual says is requred to replace the injection
timing device.
But then it occured to me - Do I really need to replace the entire timing
device?
Just because I have to buy the whole enchilada to get a new vacuum pump cam,
do I have to use the whole thing?  I have no reason to suspect there is
anything wrong with the FI pump end of the existing timing device.

Can the vacuum pump cam be replaced by just locking the FI pump shaft and
backing out the left hand thread bolt in the center of the cam?

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300Dx2
'85 300D
'80 300TD


[MBZ] A/C Stuff

2006-06-28 Thread Frederick Moir
Hi, Curt et al.
  I have a vacuum pump and guages, power and a driveway to use but very little 
experience with the new fangled freezy kids stuff
  Fred Moir
  Lynn MA
  Deez Doze An' Dat Diesulz


-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
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No, unfortunately.  I purchased the car with 165,000 miles.  I do 
have the service history, including oil changes performed at the 
dealer, but that doesn't mean much.  If the gauge checks out, I'll 
probably be dropping the pan.

THanks,

J.B.

At 03:52 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:

Have you owned  maintained the car since new?  I had a 280S that the PO
failed to have regular oil changes - the intake screen on the oil pump
pickup was partially clogged with debris and it would act as you describe as
it starved for oil.  Had another used MB with similar symptoms that had a
main bearing fail.

Those are extreme possibilities - especially if the maintanence history is
questionable - checking the gauge 1st is the prudent thing to do.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: J.B. Hebert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure


  Grrr... totally forgot to mention the car is a '95 E300D with 214,000
  miles running on M1 5W40.
 
  At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:
 
 On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
 fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
 out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
 fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
 to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
 again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
 a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
 max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
 to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
 motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
 pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
 pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
 sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
 like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
 recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
 pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
 if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
 bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing. 

Re: [MBZ] Replacing Vacuum Pump Driver

2006-06-28 Thread Marshall Booth

ned kleinhenz wrote:


Can the vacuum pump cam be replaced by just locking the FI pump shaft and
backing out the left hand thread bolt in the center of the cam?


Not according to the manual! They are not always correct though.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread J.B. Hebert
Got home late tonight, so I didn't have time to put it up on ramps 
and check the sender and gauge.  However, I did pull the new filter 
out and it was, unfortunately, fine.  The stem O-rings were intact 
and pliable, and the top and bottom filter gaskets were in 
place.  The oil canister was clean and free of any obvious blockage 
or other issues.


I will check the gauge tomorrow.  Does anyone know what size the oil 
sender thread is in case I have to try another gauge?  I'd like to 
have everything I need to hook it up.


Thanks,

J.B.

At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:


On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D


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[MBZ] [Fwd: 9 blade fan]

2006-06-28 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject: 9 blade fan
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 09:47:18 -0500
From: P. D. Ferguson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   I see Rusty has a 9 blade plastic radiator fan 
available

for the 123s.  Has anyone tried one in place of the stock aluminum fan to
see if there is any noticeable improvement in engine cooling?  Any extra
noise?
Peter Ferguson
1983 300TD







[MBZ] [Fwd: Re: 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...]

2006-06-28 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...
Date:   Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:09:28 -0400
From:   andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
References:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Does anyone have a 1092-1985 300CD they are parting out?  I need up to
four seat servos (two under each front seat) that lock the backs of the
bucket seats into position.



On 5/16/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Each seat back unlocks properly when a door is opened or the release
  button
  on the side of the chair is pressed, but the linkages will not
move by
  themselves into the locking position (although they will stay there
  once I
  slide the hooked lever into place).  Is it possible there is a
problem
  in
  the locking circuit only?

There is no unlocking 'circuit', it's spring-loaded, much like the
fuel flap.  Either both sides got equally sticky (not!) or there
is a small leak getting started that's siphoning off just enough
vacuum to prevent it from working right.  Getcher MityVac out!

-- Jim


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[MBZ] [Fwd: Re: 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...]

2006-06-28 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...
Date:   Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:36:47 -0400
From:   andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
References:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



That should be 1982 - 1985...

On 6/27/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Does anyone have a 1092-1985 300CD they are parting out?  I need up
to four seat servos (two under each front seat) that lock the backs
of the bucket seats into position.



On 5/16/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:


 Each seat back unlocks properly when a door is opened or the

release

 button
 on the side of the chair is pressed, but the linkages will not

move by

 themselves into the locking position (although they will stay

there

 once I
 slide the hooked lever into place).  Is it possible there is a

problem

 in
 the locking circuit only?


There is no unlocking 'circuit', it's spring-loaded, much like the
fuel flap.  Either both sides got equally sticky (not!) or there
is a small leak getting started that's siphoning off just enough
vacuum to prevent it from working right.  Getcher MityVac out!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

What car are we talking about here?

J.B. Hebert wrote:

On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was 
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went 
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to 
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted 
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on 
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of 
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and 
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went 
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After 
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the 
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil 
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and 
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or 
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just 
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car 
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on 
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even 
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter 
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears 
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and 
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for 
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.


Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D 





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

could be a sending unit problem

J.B. Hebert wrote:

Grrr... totally forgot to mention the car is a '95 E300D with 214,000 
miles running on M1 5W40.


At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:



On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D


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J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D 





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I am using autofrost, works great.  You have to have a license to buy it 
though.  Forget doing any AC work unless you have a vacuum pump and 
guages at the min.


Curt Raymond wrote:


Has anybody ever gotten a shop to use one of the alternate refridgerants? I'd 
like to use Autofrost but don't have the space or tools (no vacuum pump and 
more importantly nowhere to plug it in) to do it myself. I'd like to find 
somebody who could do it, I'd pick up the AutoFrost and have somebody else to 
do the work. Even better would be somebody who'd let me help so I could see how 
its done.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:10:58 -0400

From: Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


But also consider an alternative like Envirosafe ES12a, see
http://autorefrigerants.com/.  This is probably a DIY solution.  I 
tried
ES12a recently and was very pleased. They also sell hoses that connect 
to
the R12 low side as well as a dryer product and little gizmos to check 
AC
oil quality/quantity.  I haven't tried their sealer products.  There 
are
other refrigerants, like Freeze 12 but I haven't tried them.  They have 
a
kit with 3 cans and a hose for $70 as I recall.  No need to change the 
oil
(stay with mineral oil) and the pressures are same or lower than R12, 
both

are big advantages in my mind.


-
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread Mitch Haley
I forgot, is this the E300?
Do those things have piston cooling jets?
Seems like 1995 was not a turbo year. 
If a cooling jet fell off, I wonder how much
oil pressure would escape from the hole?

Another possibility (on any engine) is loss of
an oil galley plug. Happened to my Dad's 1973 
Ford P/U, he left it idling for half an hour and
when he returned it was making an awful clatter.
He paid $$ hundreds in labor to replace a $3 part.
Ford was not interested in a policy adjustment
for an engine defect on a six year old truck. Dad
hasn't bought a Ford since, and never will. I was
amazed the engine still seemed to run normally after
that. 

Mitch.



Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread J.B. Hebert

The '95 E300D (OM606).

At 09:51 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:


What car are we talking about here?

J.B. Hebert wrote:

 On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
 fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
 out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
 fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
 to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
 again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
 a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
 max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
 to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
 motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
 pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
 pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
 sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
 like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
 recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
 pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
 if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
 bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears
 that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and
 the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for
 further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

 Thanks,


 J.B. Hebert

 --
 Current Vehicles:

 '76 Ford Bronco
 '78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
 '80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
 '82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
 '93 GMC Sierra 2500
 '95 Mercedes E300D



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

___
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Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Zeitgeist

Ok, went back to the outdoor store and bought up their supply of
isobutane/propane mixtures (4 cans), but I still need to figure out the best
way to

On 6/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I am using autofrost, works great.  You have to have a license to buy it
though.  Forget doing any AC work unless you have a vacuum pump and
guages at the min.

Curt Raymond wrote:

 Has anybody ever gotten a shop to use one of the alternate
refridgerants? I'd like to use Autofrost but don't have the space or tools
(no vacuum pump and more importantly nowhere to plug it in) to do it myself.
I'd like to find somebody who could do it, I'd pick up the AutoFrost and
have somebody else to do the work. Even better would be somebody who'd let
me help so I could see how its done.

   -Curt

   Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:10:58 -0400
 From: Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


 But also consider an alternative like Envirosafe ES12a, see
 http://autorefrigerants.com/.  This is probably a DIY solution.  I
 tried
 ES12a recently and was very pleased. They also sell hoses that connect
 to
 the R12 low side as well as a dryer product and little gizmos to check
 AC
 oil quality/quantity.  I haven't tried their sealer products.  There
 are
 other refrigerants, like Freeze 12 but I haven't tried them.  They have
 a
 kit with 3 cans and a hose for $70 as I recall.  No need to change the
 oil
 (stay with mineral oil) and the pressures are same or lower than R12,
 both
 are big advantages in my mind.


 -
 Ring'em or ping'em. Make  PC-to-phone calls as low as 1¢/min with Yahoo!
Messenger with Voice.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Zeitgeist

[why the hell do I do that?  I sent that out before I was done
composing--idiot!]

Uh yes, as I was attempting to pontificate...I'm trying to figure out the
best way to tap into the cans.  They're much wider and squatter than your
regular freon can, so my tap won't apparently work.  I don't want to buy an
expensive stove, just to canniballize and use for my illicit purposes.


Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Gumball, was: FSM comic

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

It's been too long - I'm going to have to rent it ---

On 6/27/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

What about the 'vette splitting in half? Did you know there was a hole there?

  The old guys in the Mercedes are great.
  Please drive at a rate befitting our age and status in life

  -Curt



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

(MB content) I was able to use my basic (student) 301 to measure and
verify the output pulse from the distributor sensor on the 117.985.

On 6/27/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

archer wrote:
 What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth?  I
 have one but it's buried in the attic and I don't remember the name.  I was
 concerned about getting replacement tubes but a friend who sells tubes on
 the internet said there would be no problem.


Probably not much.  Replacement tubes aren't the issue; it's the sheer
bulk and weight of the thing.  I gave my 503 away when I moved because I
didn't want to haul it around.  The bandwidth on them is low enough that
they're not very useful for actual troubleshooting work, these days;
they can do audio and IF frequencies in radio gear but you need at least
10 MHz to do TV work.  The one I had was Navy surplus, so there probably
were a lot of them kicking around at one point.




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck SU

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

I'm only driving 45 - 50 miles per day, about 50% interstate, and at
10,000 miles the soot was 0.5%. Mobile 15w50, Oklahoma ---

On 6/27/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Yup, 90 miles a day. Analysis at ~5000 miles showed soot at .6% but grade had 
fallen to 40. I think I was sloppy and didn't get all the old conventional oil 
out, it was February, I was working outside, sue me.
  I took another sample when I changed at ~7300 miles, we'll see what that 
shows.

  -Curt

  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:33:05 -0400
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck  SUV
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

If you are driving 90 miles a day, I think that 10-15kmi oil change
intervals MAY be possible. An oil analysis (that includes soot %) at
about 7kmi should be the starting point.

That could work out to a change about twice a year!

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

I don't remember if you've checked already, but what's the
compression? Getting air into the cylinders? Sounds like you have
fuel, what else can it be?


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

I HATE MOWERS/MOWING.

On 6/27/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my BS Quantum
new mower (now six or more years old).  Runs like a champ, I change
it every year or so...

Peter


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



[MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread Brian Smyla
Can anyone point me to a site with information about the 300SDL vacuum
system?  I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap  on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably.  All
the service manuals I've been able to locate for the car are JUNK.  Are
there supposed to be two ports on the vacuum pump, one for the booster and
another for the other vacuum accessories?  The vacuum diagram under the hood
doesn't even show the brake booster line!  Where am I supposed to get vacuum
for the accessories?  Thanks in advance!

 

-brian

 



Re: [MBZ] Replacing Vacuum Pump Driver

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

Ah - but once you've figured out what has to be done, be sure to
report back - adding that bit of knowledge to the collection ---

It's a pain to be the first  ---


The best source(s) are the
people on this list who have done the procedures before.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

Tried to take a picture for you, but I can barely see it with the
radiator hose in the way.
Yes - there are two ports - one for the booster, the other for the
accessories. Mine (300SDL) wouldn't hold vacuum, and took quite awhile
to generate vacuum after starting in the AM. I thought it might be
just the check valve on top, but I ended up having to replace the
pump.


 Are there supposed to be two ports on the vacuum pump, one for the booster and
another for the other vacuum accessories?  The vacuum diagram under the hood
doesn't even show the brake booster line!  Where am I supposed to get vacuum
for the accessories?  Thanks in advance!




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread Marshall Booth

Brian Smyla wrote:

Can anyone point me to a site with information about the 300SDL vacuum
system?  I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap  on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably.  All
the service manuals I've been able to locate for the car are JUNK.  Are
there supposed to be two ports on the vacuum pump, one for the booster and
another for the other vacuum accessories?  The vacuum diagram under the hood
doesn't even show the brake booster line!  Where am I supposed to get vacuum
for the accessories?  Thanks in advance!


The engine vacuum diagram is on the CD (7.1-500) as is the information 
on testing the pump (43-0660).


http://mb.braingears.com/

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey

system?  I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap  on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably.


The only thing on the booster's tap is the brown line for the engine
shutoff.  Everything else comes off the secondary vacuum output line
on the vacuum pump.  (An inch or so to the passenger side from the
big line.)  Or so it is on ours.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
Uh yes, as I was attempting to pontificate...I'm trying to figure out 
the
best way to tap into the cans.  They're much wider and squatter than 
your
regular freon can, so my tap won't apparently work.  I don't want to 
buy an

expensive stove, just to canniballize and use for my illicit purposes.


Until I found my expensive stove for cheap at Goodwill, I made a strap
out of a coat hanger that I used, in conjunction with two small vise 
grips,
to clamp the R12 can tap to the side of the can.  Then I just let it 
pierce

the can in the side.  One vise grip clamped one edge of the tap to the
metal lip on the bottom of the can, the other held the band shut 
clamping
the other end of the tap to the can.  Worked great, and I never had a 
leak.


-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] A/C Stuff

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey
  I have a vacuum pump and guages, power and a driveway to use but 
very little experience with the new fangled freezy kids stuff


Just dive right in and get some!

	http://cathey.dogear.com/efair.html  
http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html


You will have fun.  I recommend a good generic book on auto AC systems
(from McFLAPS) for background information.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey

Jim, do you know if the 9 blade fan will fit the stock 123 clutch?


No clue, sorry.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 9 blade fan

2006-06-28 Thread OK Don

Call Rusty and ask ---

On 6/27/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim, do you know if the 9 blade fan will fit the stock 123 clutch?

No clue, sorry.

-- Jim



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread Desert Rat

Unless the doors,trunk and gas door is the problem then that is  a
different system commencing from a pump found in the spare tire well.

On 6/27/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 system?  I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap  on the
 brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably.

The only thing on the booster's tap is the brown line for the engine
shutoff.  Everything else comes off the secondary vacuum output line
on the vacuum pump.  (An inch or so to the passenger side from the
big line.)  Or so it is on ours.

-- Jim


___
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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 143K Stardust
1985 380SL 143K Blue Belle
1996 Sidekick 57K Kermit
1992 500SL 108K unnamed



Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Mitch Haley
Jim Cathey wrote:
 
 Until I found my expensive stove for cheap at Goodwill, I made a strap
 out of a coat hanger that I used, in conjunction with two small vise
 grips, to clamp the R12 can tap to the side of the can. 

How about a vise grip on the bottom rim of the can and a large hose
clamp up above?



Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey

How about a vise grip on the bottom rim of the can and a large hose
clamp up above?


Sure!  I just didn't have a hose clamp that large, and it was
quicker to flange one up out of wire than to go get one.  Once
I had it, then I didn't need the hose clamp anymore, so I never
did go get one.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-28 Thread Curt Raymond
A broken connecting rod is no big deal, I got my Cub Cadet for $50 because it 
had thrown a rod, but throwing it out through the block is a much bigger event. 
My only suspicion is that the piston siezed suddenly and the rod started to 
bend so when it failed the pent up energy was enough for the shrapnel to shoot 
out through the block.
  $380 later and a new motor is on its way. 1/3 the cost of a replacement mower 
and the new one is 13 1/2hp rather than 13.
   
  The old White that we have for a backup mower had almost no compression left 
before I started using Mobil 1 in it. I expect it ran rich for years and built 
up quite a supply of carbon around the rings, now it runs pretty good...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:42:48 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil thread
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Curt wrote:  the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE 
ENGINE

Hi Curt,
My Craftsman pushmower did something similar - pulled the rope and 
it 
was *very* easy to pull - it appears the rod has broken allowing the 
crank 
to turn without creating any compression - It might be worth fixin but 
when 
the grass needs cutting, time is important so we bought a new mower.  
When I 
get time (yeah, right) I might pull it apart to see how bad it is - and 
to 
check the prices of con rods.

I try to use M1 in my mowers to but it sounds like they make more 
engine 
noise with it - but it might be my paranoia
.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info 
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test 
http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.



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Clogged pickup screens are pretty common on old tractors that had been run for 
years with non-detergent oil, any dirt or crud that got into the engine settled 
into the oil pan.
  Common practice when switching to detergent oil is to drop the pan and scrape 
the crud out. Guess what I need to do on my tractor this fall?
   
  -Curt
  '52 Farmall Super M
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:52:19 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Have you owned  maintained the car since new?  I had a 280S that the 
PO 
failed to have regular oil changes - the intake screen on the oil pump 
pickup was partially clogged with debris and it would act as you 
describe as 
it starved for oil.  Had another used MB with similar symptoms that had 
a 
main bearing fail.

Those are extreme possibilities - especially if the maintanence history 
is 
questionable - checking the gauge 1st is the prudent thing to do.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info 
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test 
http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/



-
Do you Yahoo!?
 Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
From [EMAIL 

Re: [MBZ] Tales

2006-06-28 Thread Curt Raymond
This still pretty much is my youth, at least I keep telling myself that. Funny 
how turning 30 didn't really hit me until months later.
   
  I try, oh how I try, to cut back my stories. Somehow it works when I'm 
talking but when I'm writing, not so much...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 20:19:52 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Tales
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Curt posted, in part:

? Last month at camp Dad and I were getting out the lawnmower so we 
could 
mow where we were planning to plant trees

If you are going to complete with Van Cleef with tales of your youth, 
or 
maybe last week, you are going to have to become much more verbose. His 
record 
stands at 1364 words in one post, as I recall.

Topic was fencing, I think.

RLE 



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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 06:39:36 -0700 (PDT)
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For as much as I hate Wal-Mart I got Gumball Rally and Cannonball Run II on one 
DVD for $10. Cannonball Run II stinks but Gumball Rally is worth $10.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:06:01 -0500
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Gumball, was: FSM comic
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It's been too long - I'm going to have to rent it ---

On 6/27/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 What about the 'vette splitting in half? Did you know there was a 
hole there?

   The old guys in the Mercedes are great.
   Please drive at a rate befitting our age and status in life

   -Curt


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil thread
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Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-28 Thread Curt Raymond
Oaklahoma is pretty dry though right? Lotta dust while you mow if you haven't 
been watering?
   
  I like mowing, hate mowers. Any mower made in the last 20 years was made as 
cheap as possible. I need to finish the deck for my Cub Cadet, thats a real 
mower...
   
  The most fun mowing is taking down 1-4 poplar trees (Quaking Aspen for those 
not in New England) with the 6' bushhog behind the Farmall. If I can get the 
wheel of the Farmall to push it over the bushhog will eat it.
   
  Worst mowing was the time a skunk was hiding in the bushes I hit... Ohh that 
stank (pun intended).
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:26:09 -0500
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil thread
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
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I HATE MOWERS/MOWING.

On 6/27/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my BS Quantum
 new mower (now six or more years old).  Runs like a champ, I change
 it every year or so...

 Peter

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



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Subject: [MBZ] SD TRANS QUESTION
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On my 82 SD, I have a strange trans issue that shows up only after 
running a couple hundred miles, shutting down, then starting up 
again. On restart, the trans sometimes shifts late out of second, and 
very late or not at all, out of third, even surpassing the marked 
shift point on the speedometer. USUALLY I can get it to shift by 
backing all the way off the throttle, but generally the car slows 
down quite a bit before the eventual upshift. Also, it will downshift 
into third from fourth far sooner than it needs. Cruising at 70 and 
encountering a slight grade can cause it to do so.

My indy checked the vacuum valves (flaps) and found they were fine. 
He said the problem would be caused by something internal to the 
transmission, and did a transmission flush. Shift quality improved, 
with a noticeably firmer 2-3 shift, but the issue remains. This trans 
is a rebuilt '85 unit, according to the P.O., who said he specified a 
later year trans to avoid the B-2 issue. When driven shorter 
distances or around town, the trans behaves fine. It's only on long 
trips that the problem shows up.

Also, I have recently noticed that the shifter sometimes will not go 
past N into R or P. Worn shifter bushings? Could there be a 
connection?

Thanks, all.

Dan
-- 
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 270k



Re: [MBZ] SD TRANS QUESTION

2006-06-28 Thread Luther Gulseth


Transmission is shot.  I'll give you $501.

Dan Weeks [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 On my 82 SD, I have a strange trans issue that shows up only after 
 running a couple hundred miles, shutting down, then starting up 
 again. On restart, the trans sometimes shifts late out of second, and 
 very late or not at all, out of third, even surpassing the marked 
 shift point on the speedometer. USUALLY I can get it to shift by 
 backing all the way off the throttle, but generally the car slows 
 down quite a bit before the eventual upshift. Also, it will downshift 
 into third from fourth far sooner than it needs. Cruising at 70 and 
 encountering a slight grade can cause it to do so.
 
 My indy checked the vacuum valves (flaps) and found they were fine. 
 He said the problem would be caused by something internal to the 
 transmission, and did a transmission flush. Shift quality improved, 
 with a noticeably firmer 2-3 shift, but the issue remains. This trans 
 is a rebuilt '85 unit, according to the P.O., who said he specified a 
 later year trans to avoid the B-2 issue. When driven shorter 
 distances or around town, the trans behaves fine. It's only on long 
 trips that the problem shows up.
 
 Also, I have recently noticed that the shifter sometimes will not go 
 past N into R or P. Worn shifter bushings? Could there be a 
 connection?
 
 Thanks, all.
 
 Dan
 -- 
 Dan Weeks
 82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
 82 Mercedes 300SD, 270k
 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)





Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-28 Thread dave walton

I had a trapped air problem in my S350 that I fixed by loosening the
injector lines at the top of the injector, then cranking until fuel
squirted out.

-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300

On 6/27/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

1987 300 TD

As you may remember, several list members have made various suggestions of
things to check.  The problem appears to be internal to the Inj
pump.  There is good fuel flow through the filters.  (no algae)  Filters
were replaced anyway.  just to be certain we eliminated many sources of
possible problems, I put an electric fuel pump ahead of the transfer pump,
took off the oil filler cap to eliminate the possibility of crankcase
pressure buildup, removed the IP side cover and manually held the rack to
the full delivery position with the vacuum disconnected to the shut
off.  In this test, we got continuous flow through the pump and out the
return line, but not enough fuel to start and run to the injector nozzles
(tested by cracking the lines and comparing to the SDL engine)  I tested
the shut-off valve with a mighty vac and it appears to be working
correctly.  The rack pulls to the no-fuel position with the vacuum applied,
and returns to a partial delivery position with the vacuum released.

Next weekend I am going to try replacing the copper seals and o-rings on
the delivery valves, but I am running out of ideas.  I believe holding the
rack to full open will eliminate any influence of the mechanical governor.
Each element of the pump operates off its own lobe of the cam, so it is
unlikely that the cam had a massive failure.  since fuel is flowing out of
the IP overflow at the filter, I believe there can't be air pockets in the
pump.

Does anyone else have any ideas?  If a copper seal is bad, would that
affect all the elements, or just one?

Loren  (frustrated, cause I think this is something simple)


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Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-28 Thread Bill
Sounds like you're getting into oddball territory.  I'd throw my hat in the
ring for sucking air.  On the 77 240D I acquired the PO had added a Racor
fuel/water filter.  The line from the device to the screen filter was a bit
too tight and had developed a slight hole/tear.  Not so much as to leak, but
enough that the pump would suck air.  Have you changed all fuel lines and
blown out the steel parts?  Don't remember if you've looked at the tank
screen yet, I'd check that too.

My $0.02
Bill Harris
77 240D-single tank WVO system
79 240D-single tank WVO system

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 6:21 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

Compression is fine.  First the engine ran fine, then would not run over 
1000 rpm, then the engine would start, run for about 2 seconds, then die 
from fuel starvation. This was over a span of about an hour.   cracking the 
injector lines with the rack at full fuel shows almost no fuel being 
delivered to the nozzles.

Peter's air bubble theory makes sense, but where did the bubble come from 
and why didn't it purge when i had an additional electric fuel pump in the 
system?  There was only fuel coming from the return line, no air.

At 10:20 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:
I don't remember if you've checked already, but what's the
compression? Getting air into the cylinders? Sounds like you have
fuel, what else can it be?


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well if you are not getting enough vacuum from the brake booster line 
your pump might not be putting out enough vacuum.  First thing to do is 
to pull off an plug each seperate vacuum system to see if that is whats 
leaking.  Such as the trans shifting part of it, then the climate 
control part.  If you have not done so already, the accessory line that 
comes off the vacuum pump goes to a 3 way splitter.  You need to 
replaced that with a 2 way splitter and unplug the lines that go over to 
the passenger side of the engine for the egr and air recirc stuff. 
Those things over there are probably leaking and could lower your vacuum 
level.


Brian Smyla wrote:


Can anyone point me to a site with information about the 300SDL vacuum
system?  I'm not getting enough vacuum from the check valve tap  on the
brake booster line to operate the other vacuum accessories reliably.  All
the service manuals I've been able to locate for the car are JUNK.  Are
there supposed to be two ports on the vacuum pump, one for the booster and
another for the other vacuum accessories?  The vacuum diagram under the hood
doesn't even show the brake booster line!  Where am I supposed to get vacuum
for the accessories?  Thanks in advance!

 


-brian

 


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] 300SDL vacuum information

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Yea, when I got mine it would run everything all at once.  Had low 
vacuum.  I unhooked the lines to the passenger side as I said before and 
it helped.  But replacing the pump is what was really needed as it was 
the old style pump.


OK Don wrote:


Tried to take a picture for you, but I can barely see it with the
radiator hose in the way.
Yes - there are two ports - one for the booster, the other for the
accessories. Mine (300SDL) wouldn't hold vacuum, and took quite awhile
to generate vacuum after starting in the AM. I thought it might be
just the check valve on top, but I ended up having to replace the
pump.



Are there supposed to be two ports on the vacuum pump, one for the booster and
another for the other vacuum accessories?  The vacuum diagram under the hood
doesn't even show the brake booster line!  Where am I supposed to get vacuum
for the accessories?  Thanks in advance!







--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
you apparantly dont know much about Oklahoma.  No, we dont live in the 
desert, no we dont have to fight off them injuns.  There is not much out 
in western oklahoma but eastern ok is green and lush, with many scenic 
lakes and rivers and mountains.  This part of the state is called green 
country


Curt Raymond wrote:


Oaklahoma is pretty dry though right? Lotta dust while you mow if you haven't 
been watering?
   
  I like mowing, hate mowers. Any mower made in the last 20 years was made as cheap as possible. I need to finish the deck for my Cub Cadet, thats a real mower...
   
  The most fun mowing is taking down 1-4 poplar trees (Quaking Aspen for those not in New England) with the 6' bushhog behind the Farmall. If I can get the wheel of the Farmall to push it over the bushhog will eat it.
   
  Worst mowing was the time a skunk was hiding in the bushes I hit... Ohh that stank (pun intended).
   
  -Curt
   


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] SD TRANS QUESTION

2006-06-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
The 85 trans will still have the b2, unless its a california version 
722.4, then it wont. In which case it wont last nearly as long as the 
tranny thats supposed to be in there because its a lighter duty tranny.


Dan Weeks wrote:

On my 82 SD, I have a strange trans issue that shows up only after 
running a couple hundred miles, shutting down, then starting up 
again. On restart, the trans sometimes shifts late out of second, and 
very late or not at all, out of third, even surpassing the marked 
shift point on the speedometer. USUALLY I can get it to shift by 
backing all the way off the throttle, but generally the car slows 
down quite a bit before the eventual upshift. Also, it will downshift 
into third from fourth far sooner than it needs. Cruising at 70 and 
encountering a slight grade can cause it to do so.


My indy checked the vacuum valves (flaps) and found they were fine. 
He said the problem would be caused by something internal to the 
transmission, and did a transmission flush. Shift quality improved, 
with a noticeably firmer 2-3 shift, but the issue remains. This trans 
is a rebuilt '85 unit, according to the P.O., who said he specified a 
later year trans to avoid the B-2 issue. When driven shorter 
distances or around town, the trans behaves fine. It's only on long 
trips that the problem shows up.


Also, I have recently noticed that the shifter sometimes will not go 
past N into R or P. Worn shifter bushings? Could there be a 
connection?


Thanks, all.

Dan


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread J.B. Hebert
This is the E300.  It is non-turbo, but does still have the piston 
cooling jets.  However, I do not know as they can fall off.  I think 
they are just a specific sized hole drilled in existing material, but 
I may be wrong.


I have not detected any loss of oil anywhere, including into the 
coolant or bellhousing, so I have to think that it is not a galley plug.


Thanks,

J.B.

At 10:03 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:


I forgot, is this the E300?
Do those things have piston cooling jets?
Seems like 1995 was not a turbo year.
If a cooling jet fell off, I wonder how much
oil pressure would escape from the hole?

Another possibility (on any engine) is loss of
an oil galley plug. Happened to my Dad's 1973
Ford P/U, he left it idling for half an hour and
when he returned it was making an awful clatter.
He paid $$ hundreds in labor to replace a $3 part.
Ford was not interested in a policy adjustment
for an engine defect on a six year old truck. Dad
hasn't bought a Ford since, and never will. I was
amazed the engine still seemed to run normally after
that.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-28 Thread J.B. Hebert
The pan was off less than 20k miles ago, so unless something odd 
happened I can't imagine that much buildup would have occurred that 
quickly.  Not that I'm dismissing the clocked screen, but I would be 
very surprised if that was the case.  If the gauge checks out, the 
pan will be the next thing to check.


J.B.


At 09:14 AM 6/28/2006, you wrote:

Clogged pickup screens are pretty common on old tractors that had 
been run for years with non-detergent oil, any dirt or crud that got 
into the engine settled into the oil pan.
  Common practice when switching to detergent oil is to drop the 
pan and scrape the crud out. Guess what I need to do on my tractor this fall?


  -Curt
  '52 Farmall Super M

  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:52:19 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Have you owned  maintained the car since new?  I had a 280S that the
PO
failed to have regular oil changes - the intake screen on the oil pump
pickup was partially clogged with debris and it would act as you
describe as
it starved for oil.  Had another used MB with similar symptoms that had
a
main bearing fail.

Those are extreme possibilities - especially if the maintanence history
is
questionable - checking the gauge 1st is the prudent thing to do.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test
http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/



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Re: [MBZ] SD TRANS QUESTION

2006-06-28 Thread Jim Cathey

Also, I have recently noticed that the shifter sometimes will not go
past N into R or P. Worn shifter bushings? Could there be a
connection?


Does this car have a rod to the transmission?  Is it possible that
bad mounts are causing enough displacement of the tranny that it's
affecting the shifter linkage, and perhaps the throttle linkage
to the tranny?  Just a wild shot in the dark, I don't have a
617-based 126 to look at.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck SUV

2006-06-28 Thread Marshall Booth

Curt Raymond wrote:

I mean I had 15w50 oil in it but it was apparently only a 40wt oil when hot. I 
expect thats thinning due to contamination from old oil leftover in the 
crankcase. I was also concerned that the Iron in the oil seemed a bit high. It 
was only the first oil change since I'd bought the car so I'm considering it a 
cleanout conversion.
   
  The other thing I need to do is get the next sample tested for TBN. Larry T informs me that the TBN had been a limiting factor in his early analysis but thats before the 15w50 when to EP 15w50 so we'll see how it holds up.
   
  -Curt


Don't spend any time worrying about the measured viscosity only being 
40. A diesel rated oil with a viscosity of 40 has more than sufficient 
 film strength to adequately protect your engine and MORE film strength 
isn't any better than enough! An engine protected by oil that's 85% 
group IV synthetic and 15% conventional oil will be only slightly less 
well protected than one that is filled with 100% synthetic. I expect 
that NO detriment could be found until temps got WAY below zero (F).


Whenever you change the oil in your car (601.921 engine) there will be 
about a qt of old oil that remains in the engine. You can't get it out 
even if you turn the car upside down and shake it! You'd need to tear 
the engine completely apart to get it all out. Don't bother to try. 
That's all calculated into the change interval that's used. I'm pretty 
sure that's true of every Mercedes made since the early '70s.


That means that you are mixing about 6 qt of fresh oil with one qt of 
old oil every time you change the oil. That's ONE reason why the oil 
seems black within minutes of changing the oil. The soot level does NOT 
drop by 100% but only by ~85% - and that much soot (that's ~0.3% if the 
soot level of the old oil had reached 2%) will make the oil appear black 
- and it only seems marginally blacker to me when the soot level 
reaches 2% (the color of the oil is a poor way to judge when it needs to 
be changed).


I have no problem with you testing TBN, but if you find that it's 
outside the usable range, then there is something REALLY wrong with your 
engine. As long as the TBN is a positive number (above 2-3), then there 
is NO problem. Using fuel available today in the US, modern diesel rated 
oil should have no trouble neutralizing acid by-products for 50kmi or 
more (TBN is a measure of how much acid the oil can neutralize)!! Once 
the ULSD fuel is introduced, TBN will be even less challenged (less 
sulfur, less acid by-products). Currently, the primary factor limiting 
oil change interval in Mercedes diesels is soot levels, NOT TBN. 
Mercedes eliminates soot from their auto engines by changing the oil! 
Some makers try to filter it, and others dilute it by using 10-20X as 
much oil as is used in a Mercedes diesel in an engine that's only 2-3X 
as large as yours so the interval between oil changes can be increased 
5-10X.


A friend just changed from Delo 400 oil (changed every 15kmi) in his 
2000 Peterbilt (with CAT C-15 engine and about 700kmi on it) to Delvac 1 
and the shop suggested that he run an analysis and change filters at 
25kmi and again at 50kmi. They predicted he could go at least 50kmi 
between changes (every 6 months rather than every month and a half). The 
engine sump holds 12 gallons. He expects (with just a little luck) the 
engine to go 1-1.5 million miles before it needs to be rebuilt.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor

2006-06-28 Thread Rusty Cullens
$300.00

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[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 4:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor


617 589 08 21 00


Mark Maturo



 

 Rusty Cullens

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 Sent by:  'Mercedes Discussion List'

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Subject 
 06/28/2006 03:46  Re: [MBZ] RIV sensor

 PM

 

 

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If you can get me a part # I can see how much.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] RIV sensor


Does anyone know of a place that rents the RIV position sensor to set
the
start of delivery on the inj. pump?  Rusty, how much is a new one?
 Is there another way to set the start of delivery without the sensor?

Thanks


Mark Maturo





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