[MBZ] Elderly hoon

2012-03-23 Thread Hendrik Fay

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WmZcn8Y-SM

Hendrik
who has matured enough to not do burnouts

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the driveway - was: Use of synthetic oil in older diesels

2012-03-23 Thread Rich Thomas
And then it runs into the storm sewer and then it runs into the river.  
Or it just settles into the groundwater.


--R

On 3/22/12 7:32 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
B100 over the top of the oil.  then Dawn and brush with stiff 
brush/broom.  When you are sufficiently worn out and the B100 has been 
there an hour or more, wash it off with a pressure washer.  May not 
bleach out all the black in one pass, but will do a decent job.




It has already soaked... into the concrete. :-(

Rick
Sent from my iPhone.

On Mar 22, 2012, at 5:08 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:


 Driveway cleaning question to follow. :-)


 Why not just let it soak into the gravel?


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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the driveway - was: Use of synthetic oil in older diesels

2012-03-23 Thread Michael Canfield
Speedy dry will do it.  You have to use a piece of 2x4 or the like and
grind it into the concrete.  It will take a lot of work but you can get all
of the stain out.  It's how garages used to get the floor clean before
epoxy paint to seal the concrete came about.

Mike
On Mar 22, 2012 6:08 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Rick Knoble wrote:

  ... in the driveway changing oil cooler lines, because his
  kid lost an oil cooler line and four quarts of oil pretty much
  in the driveway. Driveway cleaning question to follow. :-)

 Why not just let it soak into the gravel?

 --   Philip

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[MBZ] Fwd: Happy Friday, Germans Shooting Fish In The Barrel

2012-03-23 Thread Max
Second attempt...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

A little humor to start your day off right.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63Y5XjlO4vkfeature=youtube_gdata_player


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[MBZ] Eight hole wheel coating

2012-03-23 Thread ned kleinhenz
I have a '95 E300D with the 8-hole type alloy wheels.
One of the rear brakes seized last year and the inside pad wore down to the
baking plate.
Filings/dust from the worn backing plate reacted with surfaces on the wheel
causing a rusty-black rock hard deposit.

I had to scour that wheel clean using a what I can best describe as a
stainless-steel brillo pad.
With lots of work, I got that wheel looking OK again.  But I am concerned
that I may have removed some type of protective finish from it.
Does anyone know if this 8-hole generation of wheels is supposed to have a
surface treatment or clear coat of some type?
Is this wheel going to corrode away or stain badly if I don't do something
to it?

Ned Kleinhenz
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Re: [MBZ] OT Ethanol Vs. Methanol

2012-03-23 Thread Smith, Todd
All flex-fuel vehicles are designed to run any alcohol blend, including ethanol 
or methanol or butanol at high percentages.  The fuel system is made with 
alcohol compatible materials and many systems include oxygenation sensors to 
better meter the fuel by its oxygen content to set injectors and timing 
properly.

Todd Smith

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Rick Knoble
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2012 13:24
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Ethanol Vs. Methanol

Could a flex fuel vehicle use an 85% methanol blend as well as the currently 
available 85% ethanol blend? M85 vs E85?  It seems a no brainer, given all the 
natural gas the US has, since methanol is mainly produced from that. 
Mercedes content; the C Class has been available as a flex fuel vehicle for 
almost a decade. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone.
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
1983 380SL

Timing chain was checked 10k ago and was fine

On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:17 PM, Max wrote:

 Year?  560?  380? 450?  350?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning the driveway - was: Use of synthetic oil in older diesels

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
be sure you have a soda rinse or it will keep eating the concrete

clay

On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:24 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

 Muriatic acid wash.
 
 Walt
 On Mar 22, 2012 8:14 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Rick Knoble wrote:
 
 Driveway cleaning question to follow. :-)
 
 Fmiser wrote:
 
 Why not just let it soak into the gravel?
 
 Rick Knoble then wrote:
 
 It has already soaked... into the concrete. :-(
 
 I was mostly just teasing...  Out here where I am it's a bit of
 a luxury to have a concrete floor in the garage.  But the
 _driveway_ too?  Ooooh!
 
 --   Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread John Freer
Converted to dual chain? If not, run.

John

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 23, 2012, at 9:49 AM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 1983 380SL
 
 Timing chain was checked 10k ago and was fine
 
 On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:17 PM, Max wrote:
 
 Year?  560?  380? 450?  350?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
Maybe next week.  I have three other SL I am checking out this weekend in that 
price range.  I am finding that price range is full of compromised examples.  I 
have seen others that are closer to 10k that are also needs help.  

On Mar 22, 2012, at 9:59 PM, Kevin Kraly wrote:

 Come on down to Vancouver and look this one over.
 
 
 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2908057854.html
 
 Not mine, no interest, ETC.
 
 Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
 1977 240D 315Kmi, Liesel the Diesel
 
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On Mar 23, 2012 9:53 AM, John Freer mbfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Converted to dual chain? If not, run.


I will sell Clay the engine from my POS Euro 500SEL for $500.  That would
make a nice swap into a 380.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
Ah, no conversion

clay

On Mar 23, 2012, at 9:56 AM, John Freer wrote:

 Converted to dual chain? If not, run.
 
 John
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Mar 23, 2012, at 9:49 AM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 1983 380SL
 
 Timing chain was checked 10k ago and was fine
 
 On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:17 PM, Max wrote:
 
 Year?  560?  380? 450?  350?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-23 Thread Curt Raymond
This is good information. I'm going to order one of the new type from Rusty but 
will hold it in reserve and try to anneal what I have.

I *think* my IR thermometer goes to 799F so it seems like I should be able to 
get in the right range using it and my plumbers torch if I'm careful. I've 
annealed copper washers a couple times now with good results.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 00:06:50 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer
Message-ID: 20120322000650.73899f42.fmi...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 G Mann wrote:

 2. Placed the washer /safety wire [with a handle of wire about
 8 inches long] over a gas stove burner and heated the washer
 while turning it to heat both sides of the flats until
 the .032 stainless wire just started to show some redness from
 heat.

That's a bit hot.  Iron begins glowing at about 550C (1022F),
and aluminum melts about 660C (1220F).  400C (750F) is a good
target for Aluminum.  

I did some web searching for a good way to indicate a surface
temp of 340C (650F) to 400C (750F).  A Sharpie marker is
supposed to burn off about that temperature, but one site said
only if it wasn't a fresh mark.  Another suggestion was apply
soap and watch for it turns black.

The most accurate would be a temperature indicating stick.
http://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/
Probably overkill for annealing a washer!

 3. Quenched the washer under the kitchen faucet [cold tap].
 You should get a nice PSssh}

Annealing of copper, brass, and aluminum is not generally
affected by the speed of the cooling.  So quench if you want,
or air cool, or whatever suits your fancy.  Ferrous metals
(iron and steel) _must_ be cooled slowly to anneal.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
All fresh hoses and rubber under the hood.  PO was not mechanically inclined 
and just had dealer do all the work.  ACC works, because the guy wanted the car 
fully functional and paid through the nose for that job.

clay

On Mar 22, 2012, at 5:01 PM, OK Don wrote:

 Green coolant means a new radiator, and possibly a water pump. Oil on the
 hoo dpad might be from the breather having broken or come loose in the past
 - which also indicates that despite the low miles, the rings are frozen and
 leaking. Remember that unless they've been recently replaced, ALL the
 rubber under the hood is rock hard and leaking. There is a LOT of ruber in
 the intake system - I replaced all of it in the 450SLC.
 
 On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 6:31 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Been scouring the local R107 barrel.  Finally found a true keeper.  Of
 course it is at the stealer, is nigh perfect all around, and under $11k.
 Not mine yet.
 
 Has 120k miles, great paint, with three rock chips, glass has one rock
 chip.  Second owner, with folder of records and all paperwork.  NO RUST AT
 ALL  ANYWHERE.  I mean this babe is dang near showroom.  Except the shop
 did not bother to detail the engine or under carriage.  Garage kept, but
 the dirt was as turn off.  And there is oily dirt build up on the hood pad
 where the intake is.  Were this Gump, I would say the oil bath was sloshing
 out.  I wonder what is leaking oil.  Left head or valve cover?  Coolant is
 green. The owner took the car to the other local dealer for service.  Why
 green water though?
 
 Opinions?  Sales boy was scamming me with there is an offer on the car,
 but no cash on the table, yet  SWMBA is putting the brakes on this.  Test
 drive in the a.m.  Card has a high limit, and she would get air miles.
 
 clay
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 -- 
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
I really want a 280 engine.  No need for V8 guzzling and lack of power because 
it got detuned anyway.  Dual banks of things to go wrong with V8, and twice the 
expense.

clay

On Mar 23, 2012, at 9:57 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 
 On Mar 23, 2012 9:53 AM, John Freer mbfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Converted to dual chain? If not, run.
 
 
 I will sell Clay the engine from my POS Euro 500SEL for $500.  That would
 make a nice swap into a 380.
 
 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Dan Penoff
Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of economy 
and power.

IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless, not to 
mention they are far from efficient (if that term could be used to describe a 
V-8!)

Dan

On Mar 23, 2012, at 12:49 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 1983 380SL
 
 Timing chain was checked 10k ago and was fine
 
 On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:17 PM, Max wrote:
 
 Year?  560?  380? 450?  350?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On Mar 23, 2012 10:18 AM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 All fresh hoses and rubber under the hood.  PO was not mechanically
inclined and just had dealer do all the work.  ACC works, because the guy
wanted the car fully functional and paid through the nose for that job.


Yeah but... when all's said and done you still have a 380.

You want collectible, go for an early or late car-- a minimal-smog 450 or a
560 in a good color.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mar 23, 2012 10:28 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of
economy and power.

 IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless,
Clearly you have not driven a 560 which has plenty of get-up-and-go either
in the 107 or 126 (even by the standards of our bizarre modern world
wherein minivans have 250+ hp).

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Dave in SoCal
I took the advice below to heart when I bought my '83 380SL. Not looking for 
controversy nor plan to defend Stu's reputation but I wouldn't underestimate 
the single row chain issue. 

Dave

 Stu Ritter wrote:
 Fri, 29 Sep 1995 15:49:46 
 Some thoughts about the single row chain in the 81-83 380 models. I have 
 always maintained that chains were cheap and we have changed these chains 
 every 30,000 miles (I am very conservative with other peoples cars). Then the 
 following.. a 1981 380SEC that I have maintained since new. REplaced chain at 
 30K, chain and updated cam sprockets at 60K and then at 82,000 with no 
 warning, no noise, no nuttin', the chain snapped. The post mortem revealed 
 that the sprockets inside the timing chest were so worn out they had damaged 
 the chain. The idler sprocket, the distributor drive sprocket and the 
 crankshaft sprocket were EXTREMELY worn out. I have now changed my point of 
 view and we have been converting every car in my fleet. I called all of my 
 customers within the affected range and told them to convert or sell. We have 
 converted five now and the condition of the sprockets that we have taken out 
 makes me think of a bomb, sitting there just ticking away. I now believe the 
 conversion really needs to be done.. Stu Ritter


On Mar 23, 2012, at 10:21 AM, clay monroe wrote:

 I really want a 280 engine.  No need for V8 guzzling and lack of power 
 because it got detuned anyway.  Dual banks of things to go wrong with V8, and 
 twice the expense.
 
 clay
 
 On Mar 23, 2012, at 9:57 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 
 
 On Mar 23, 2012 9:53 AM, John Freer mbfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Converted to dual chain? If not, run.
 


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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
Very true that.  

I was looking at the swapping out of trans and diff to get the needed power.  
The later set makes up for how detuned the 560 was, but does not bolt on well 
to the older engine.  Guess I take the 380 and de californicate it.  Should be 
some bhp gain in losing the cat and other hobbling gear

clay

On Mar 23, 2012, at 10:28 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of economy 
 and power.
 
 IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless, not 
 to mention they are far from efficient (if that term could be used to 
 describe a V-8!)
 
 Dan
 
 On Mar 23, 2012, at 12:49 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 1983 380SL
 
 Timing chain was checked 10k ago and was fine
 
 On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:17 PM, Max wrote:
 
 Year?  560?  380? 450?  350?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
 ___
 
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mar 23, 2012 10:51 AM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 Guess I take the 380 and de
 californicate it.

My Euro 500 has no smoggery on it at all...

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
I am jonesing for the early 450sl, since it is simple and sort of easy to work 
with.  All the smog and ABS or computer mess is not for me.  Seeing all the 
$ that replacing that stuff entails when it fails, just does not spark my 
plugs.  A simple euro 280sl grey market with hand crank windows and no AC.  
That is the dream.  This one on the stealership floor, though, is like a 30 
year old dame.  She has great skin still, motor runs sweet, and she will take 
you where you want to go.  Does not drink or smoke, no fad diet, so she has a 
bit of a girlish figure still.

clay

had to stop, because it was veering toward banned 

On Mar 23, 2012, at 10:41 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 
 On Mar 23, 2012 10:18 AM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 All fresh hoses and rubber under the hood.  PO was not mechanically
 inclined and just had dealer do all the work.  ACC works, because the guy
 wanted the car fully functional and paid through the nose for that job.
 
 
 Yeah but... when all's said and done you still have a 380.
 
 You want collectible, go for an early or late car-- a minimal-smog 450 or a
 560 in a good color.
 
 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread clay monroe
I am not interested in power.  I want a calm and agreeable ride.  Remember, I 
am from the Gump school of car love.  

clay

On Mar 23, 2012, at 10:45 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 On Mar 23, 2012 10:28 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of
 economy and power.
 
 IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless,
 Clearly you have not driven a 560 which has plenty of get-up-and-go either
 in the 107 or 126 (even by the standards of our bizarre modern world
 wherein minivans have 250+ hp).
 
 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Dan Penoff
My thinking exactly. If I wanted a race car, I would buy a Porsche.

That's one of the reasons why the 380SEL appeals to me. A beautiful chassis 
with an engine that is relatively simple to service and economical to drive.

Dan

On Mar 23, 2012, at 1:58 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 I am not interested in power.  I want a calm and agreeable ride.  Remember, I 
 am from the Gump school of car love.  
 
 clay
 
 On Mar 23, 2012, at 10:45 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 
 On Mar 23, 2012 10:28 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of
 economy and power.
 
 IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless,
 Clearly you have not driven a 560 which has plenty of get-up-and-go either
 in the 107 or 126 (even by the standards of our bizarre modern world
 wherein minivans have 250+ hp).
 
 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Dan Penoff
No, I haven't, and I probably should have clarified my response to cover the 
450SL only, which is the model I know the most about in the 107 line.

I researched and inspected literally 30+ of these back in 2003-4 when I was 
seriously considering purchasing a 450SL. I saw so many negative things on that 
model while doing so that it completely jaded me in regards to it.

These things are a dime a dozen in Florida, for some reason, and they all have 
the same issues in various levels. And they are typically overpriced for the 
condition as well. 

I have no doubt that by the time the 560SL came out much of this was ironed 
out. That and the fact that there is a considerable increase in horsepower 
between the models only makes sense that the 560SL would be far better.

However, at the time the 560s were out of my price range, so they were never 
under consideration.

Dan

On Mar 23, 2012, at 1:45 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Mar 23, 2012 10:28 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of
 economy and power.
 
 IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless,
 Clearly you have not driven a 560 which has plenty of get-up-and-go either
 in the 107 or 126 (even by the standards of our bizarre modern world
 wherein minivans have 250+ hp).
 
 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread John Freer
FWIW, here's a list of the upgrades to the 560SL from the previous R1076's.

According to MB, the following are among the items that were changed
for the 560SL (only version 107.048):

Different spring rate
Harder shocks with shorter travel
Larger torsion bar (up 1mm to 26mm)
Front axle carrier (backwards compatible to previous 107/114/115)
Front lower ctrl arm (extended to change geometry; 124 balljoint)
Front upper ctrl arm (change of materials; replaceable balljoint)
Steering knuckle/arm (from 124)
Front hub (from 124/201)
Brake discs (from 124/201)
Steering (less travel, different pump)
Prop shaft carrier (124; changed shape of tunnel to accommodate)
Rear diff carrier (to get rid of the SL rear diff whine; better
isolation, different mounts, and subframe mts left/right are
different)
Axle shafts (from SEC, but no vibration dampers)
Fuel tank mount (because of the changed diff suspension)
A-pillars (they don't say what changed)
B-pillars (126 locks and strikers required redesign)
Doors (126 door handles)
Main floor (changed stiffening)
Rear floor (?)
Hood (cutout for larger brake booster)
Firewall (presumably for the booster)
Seats (more side bolstering)

And of course, the front skirt was changed and they added the little spoiler.

John
On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 11:23 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:
 No, I haven't, and I probably should have clarified my response to cover the 
 450SL only, which is the model I know the most about in the 107 line.

 I researched and inspected literally 30+ of these back in 2003-4 when I was 
 seriously considering purchasing a 450SL. I saw so many negative things on 
 that model while doing so that it completely jaded me in regards to it.

 These things are a dime a dozen in Florida, for some reason, and they all 
 have the same issues in various levels. And they are typically overpriced for 
 the condition as well.

 I have no doubt that by the time the 560SL came out much of this was ironed 
 out. That and the fact that there is a considerable increase in horsepower 
 between the models only makes sense that the 560SL would be far better.

 However, at the time the 560s were out of my price range, so they were never 
 under consideration.

 Dan

 On Mar 23, 2012, at 1:45 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Mar 23, 2012 10:28 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Given the choice, I would opt for the 380, as it is a nice balance of
 economy and power.

 IMHO, the later V-8 models are detuned to the point of being worthless,
 Clearly you have not driven a 560 which has plenty of get-up-and-go either
 in the 107 or 126 (even by the standards of our bizarre modern world
 wherein minivans have 250+ hp).

 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] R107 chubb

2012-03-23 Thread Mitch Haley
In the case described below, I'm reasonably certain that the new chain on worn 
out sprockets was no better than, and probably worse than, leaving the old chain 
that was worn to match the sprockets installed. Now I'm left wondering what the 
crank and IP sprockets look like when we roll a new chain into a 617, but I'd 
bet money that all the sprockets on the 380 were in sad shape and the mechanic 
who replaced the cam sprockets should have known that the other sprockets were 
in similar condition. Chains should be replaced before they wear much, or the 
new chain should go in with new sprockets.


Mitch.


Dave in SoCal wrote:
I took the advice below to heart when I bought my '83 380SL. Not looking for controversy nor plan to defend Stu's reputation but I wouldn't underestimate the single row chain issue. 


Dave


Stu Ritter wrote:
Fri, 29 Sep 1995 15:49:46 
Some thoughts about the single row chain in the 81-83 380 models. I have always maintained that chains were cheap and we have changed these chains every 30,000 miles (I am very conservative with other peoples cars). Then the following.. a 1981 380SEC that I have maintained since new. REplaced chain at 30K, chain and updated cam sprockets at 60K and then at 82,000 with no warning, no noise, no nuttin', the chain snapped. The post mortem revealed that the sprockets inside the timing chest were so worn out they had damaged the chain. The idler sprocket, the distributor drive sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket were EXTREMELY worn out. I have now changed my point of view and we have been converting every car in my fleet. I called all of my customers within the affected range and told them to convert or sell. We have converted five now and the condition of the sprockets that we have taken out makes me think of a bomb, sitting there just ticking away. I now believe the convers

io

 n really needs to be done.. Stu Ritter



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[MBZ] More Oil Line Silliness

2012-03-23 Thread Rick Knoble
Okay. Another dumb question. Would it make any sense to apply anti-seize or 
Teflon tape to the oil cooler threads upon re-assembly? I am leaning toward 
anti-seize.  As it turns out, I have had bronchitis for the last week, and 
didn't get to work on it much, save for hosing the threads with PB Blaster 
every other day. Hopefully, I don't have to do them on this car again, but if I 
do, I doubt that I will have the luxury of waiting a week for a penetrant to do 
it's thing. Not that being ill is a luxury. In fact, it sucked. Darn near got 
pneumonia.  

Rick
Sent from my iPhone.
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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum washer

2012-03-23 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 This is good information. I'm going to order one of the new
 type from Rusty but will hold it in reserve and try to anneal
 what I have.
 
 I *think* my IR thermometer goes to 799F so it seems like I
 should be able to get in the right range using it and my
 plumbers torch if I'm careful.

Getting an accurate reading from a shiny, non-black surface with
an IR thermometer can be iffy.

 I've annealed copper washers a couple times now with good
 results.

Copper is easy 'cause it doesn't melt before it glows. *grin*

--   Philip

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