[MBZ] Losing power - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

I lent the 1983 300TD to my son while his Subaru was getting
overhauled.  He told me that the car was losing power at highway
speeds when going up slight inclines. I noticed this today as well.  I
changed the small fuel filter (it wasn't too bad) and was wondering
whether it might be a problem with the turbo charger.  Otherwise, no
strange noises or other symptoms.  I changed the main fuel filter  and
tank strainer in the past 1000 miles.

Andrew
1983 300TD slightly sluggish
1985 300TD occasional smell of burnt caramel popcorn

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Re: [MBZ] OBTW

[andrew strasfogel]

Would it be too much trouble to post a photo for those of us without
imagination?

On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 3:23 PM, Rich Thomas
 wrote:
> We live on sand here, no concrete driveways or anything, so I built a pad
> out in front of the garage to work on cars -- about 10x20, 6x 2x8-16
> sleepers on the sand, with 2x12-10s for the deck.  I added about 4ft at the
> back for the ramp to get up on it.  I probably should have gone with 12'
> wide, as I have about 2ft on each side to work and sit and whatnot, but it
> is not too bad.  I only slid my milk crate off once and went assover, which
> I thought was kinda funny.  About $400 for the materials, which is pretty
> decent.  I washed the car on it yesterday before I started working on it, I
> have the 2x12s tight together (no losing bits between them!) and the water
> still drained down well.  It is very solid and feels good to work on.
>
> My wife was not initially in favor of this construct as she believed it
> would encourage my automotive activities, but in explaining the safety
> aspect, blahblah, I think I won her over.  She said yesterday she liked it.
>  So I guess I am at least neutral on the effort, when her car gets done I
> will gain some (temporary) points.
>
> --R
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] 700K-mile 300SD

[Fmiser]

> clay monroe wrote:

> If you want quality lubricity and wear
> reduction, use Mobil 1, Delvac, or Rotella and change oil as
> usual.

Marshal didn't like Rotella.  Mobil 1, Delvac, and Delo were his
choices.

--  Philip, picking at nits, sorry. *smiles*

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Re: [MBZ] 700K-mile 300SD

[Fmiser]

> Rolling Hills Farm wrote:

> About 6 or so years
> back, it started using oil, somewhere around 640K miles or so.

> Determined that the valve guides are leaky, thus the
> extra smoking and oil consumption.

Hmm.  On a turbo, most of the time the intake under pressure so
leaking valve guides would cause an air leak into the rocker arm
cover - _not_ oil into the intake.

That doesn't mean the valve guides are not leaking, just that
oil consumption and smoking are symptoms of leaking guides in
gasoline engine, maybe a normally aspirated diesel, but not
likely on a turbo.

> Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on valve guide
> replacement.  I've had 5 different people tell me that I
> should just leave well-enough alone, and not replace the valve
> guides, but rather just keep driving it, adding oil, and put
> up with the smoking.  Something about replacing valve guides
> that might screw up something else and make things worse than
> they are.

Repair it.  But I'd suggest making sure it really is valve
guides.

> I don't abuse the car; I
> very,very seldom drive it over 65 mph,

Oh.  Well, that's nearly abuse.  These old Mercedes engines need
to get their combustion chambers hot every so often to burn off
excess carbon.  Around here we call that an "Italian Tuneup" and
refer to the concept and "drive it like you stole it".   I live
in the mid-west, where the terrain in vertically challenged it's
not easy to find a hill big enough and long enough to really
work a turbo.  So I keep an eye out for tall, long hills
where I can down shift to 3rd and put my foot to the floor and
let the engine reach peak RPM (5000 or so) at hopefully max
power (before the governor starts to limit fuel) for a while as
I climb the hill.  With the normally aspirated engines it's a
bit easier to find a road where I can make the engine work
hard.  In between hill-climbs, I always put my foot to the floor
and make the engine reach the governed speed at every on ramp
and any other time I can manage it. 

> and religiously do oil changes every 3K miles.

> Any ideas?  Smoking issue is worse than before.  Every time I
> take off from a stoplight, I have a lot of blue smoke (burning
> oil), and when I start it the first time every day, it belches
> smoke like you wouldn't believe.  Just in regular driving
> though, there's no visible smoke.  Engine still sounds awesome
> (that opinion coming from comparing it to the other 20 or so
> 2.4L and 3.0L cars I've owned over the years).  Power isn't
> what it used to be, but that's to be expected.

Like other's have said, that's sounding like it could be a
turbo.  I think that's much more likely to cause your symptoms
than valve guides.

> Someone recommended that I use some Lucas oil additive, maybe
> a half-quart every other oil change.

You can if you want.  But the best you can do for it is run a
group IV synthetic oil.  Like Mobil 1, or Amsoil.  And then skip
the additive.

> I am determined to reach one million miles
> eventually, although I know there's a snowball's chance in
> Purgatory that it will happen with this original engine.  

If you are willing to spend more on repairing the engine than a
used engine would cost, a million (USA) miles should be easy.
Usually it's not that the engine isn't repairable, just that it
makes more economic sense to replace.  That's not to say your
engine is at that point!  Turbo seals is not an
end-of-the-engine-life type problem!

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Rich Thomas]

I had that problem with the Rusty rental (a Klann I guess) on the 123.  
My 126 has a hole about twice as big, the compressor has lots of room.


--R

On 3/31/12 8:18 PM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

I bought and used one of those JTC compressors just once.  It didn't fit
the hole in the inner fender of the W123 without a bit of grinding.  No way
it would fit a W116.


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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Rich Thomas]

I actually cut them across the top, and the end bits sorta fell out 
then.  I put a big socket on one end of the inner rubber/metal bit, and 
pushed that out with a vise.  I am still trying to get the lower BJ 
undone, tried the hot wrench and some shims for the pickle fork, still 
no go.  Went at the BJ shaft with the sawzall but that stuff is REALLY 
tough, barely made a dent in it.  Tomorrow another tactic will unfold I 
am sure.


--R

On 3/31/12 11:40 PM, Max wrote:

Rich Thomas  wrote:

  >Those inner bushings in the LCA are tough to get out, I

might
take the recip saw to them as pounding with a punch was not having
great
effect.


Yes, saw-z-all is your friend for those inner bushings.  That was my approach 
on the 123 I did ages ago.



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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[Dieselhead]

Thanks guys!  Glad you are in a position to be able to help our resident hero.


A special thanks to Rich and Max for securing and delivering to me 
early this evening a trunk lid to replace my recently 
vandal-destroyed trunk lid on my '91 350 SDL!  Two great ATTABOYS!


Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[Max]

Craig  wrote:
>
>It's great to see that nearby Listers are taking care of our Special
>Veteran.
>
>
We saw an opportunity, and took it.

Funny timing (or God is good, if you prefer), I had gone silent on the list for 
Lent.  Season isn't over yet, but something moved me to start participating 
again.  Glad I listened to that little voice...

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Max]

Rich Thomas  wrote:

 >Those inner bushings in the LCA are tough to get out, I
>might 
>take the recip saw to them as pounding with a punch was not having
>great 
>effect.
>

Yes, saw-z-all is your friend for those inner bushings.  That was my approach 
on the 123 I did ages ago.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[Craig]

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 21:00:45 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:

> A special thanks to Rich and Max for securing and delivering to me
> early this evening a trunk lid to replace my recently vandal-destroyed
> trunk lid on my '91 350 SDL!  Two great ATTABOYS!

It's great to see that nearby Listers are taking care of our Special
Veteran.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

Amen.  Great to see you and fine young ladies, too.  Thanks.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Max" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid



WILTON  wrote:


A special thanks to Rich and Max for securing and delivering to me
early this evening a trunk lid to replace my recently vandal-destroyed
trunk lid


It was great to see you again, next time I pray it's not due to similar 
circumstances.

--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Daily digest format

[Fmiser]

> Rolling Hills Farm wrote:

> I just wanted to send a quick note about the format of the
> daily digest emails I receive.

> I have an issue with the emails I receive though.
> I subscribe to several other Yahoo groups,

This is an email list, not a Yahoo group.  An email list is a
format that dates _way_ back to the days of newsgroups and
gopher - and Netscape was a new-fangled idea.

> ... I've found this particular one especially difficult to
> read.  

> Just wondering if there's a way
> that the moderator can re-format this group to make it easier
> to read, or if that's even possible.

> Just way too confusing compared to the other Yahoo groups I
> subscribe to.

Again, it's not a Yahoo group so it doesn't work the same way.
The "moderator" has no control over the post - the posters do.
Most folks add their reply to the _top_, don't edit the the
rest.  The result is the digest and the archive are difficult to
navigate.  Just the nature of the beast and the subscribers.

Generally it's much less daunting to view as individual posts.
A lot of email clients (desktop programs) allow grouping by
threads.  This keeps replies together regardless of the subject
or content.  If you like using a web browser, a gmail account
can work well.  Otherwise Thunderbird, Eudora, and Sylpheed are
decent email clients.

If you'd rather use a web forum, try
http://www.superturbodiesel.com.  It's even run by a "local".
*smiles*

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[Max]

WILTON  wrote:

>A special thanks to Rich and Max for securing and delivering to me
>early this evening a trunk lid to replace my recently vandal-destroyed
>trunk lid 

It was great to see you again, next time I pray it's not due to similar 
circumstances.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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[MBZ] 126 trunk lid

[WILTON]

A special thanks to Rich and Max for securing and delivering to me early this 
evening a trunk lid to replace my recently vandal-destroyed trunk lid on my '91 
350 SDL!  Two great ATTABOYS!

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Jaime Kopchinski]

I bought and used one of those JTC compressors just once.  It didn't fit
the hole in the inner fender of the W123 without a bit of grinding.  No way
it would fit a W116.  Quality was questionable.  I got rid of it and bought
the real Klann tool with a friend.  Between the two of us, and the several
jobs I've done with it already, it was worth the extra money.  Its a joy to
use and I don't have to fear for my life or bones nearly as much (althought
I .

Good luck!
Jaime


On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

> I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring
> compressor that Max found, eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.**
> php?mode=data&id=355&top=0
>  it seems like a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented
> from Rusty last time I did the job on the 123.
>
> Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring
> (first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring out
> no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the plate
> pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all the way
> extended and there was still compression on the spring so I can't get it
> out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I try to turn it back to tighten it to
> put it back in the car to compress it a bit and hold it compressed, to
> rotate the plates some to get some slack (they are interlocked top and
> bottom now with the teeth on both ends locked in the pockets on the plates,
> so the whole thing rotates), and I run into this "feature" :
>
> Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and
> ***automatic freewheel
>   at end of stroke.***
>
> Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot
> recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!
>
> So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates
> around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the car
> frame and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit (I think
> I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking that is dangerous as
> hell and really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe use the floor jack
> (which has a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it under the car and push
> it up a tad.  Or if I should go to oreilly's and borrow one of their cheapo
> compressors, use that just enough to get some slack on the system.  There
> is probably not a whole lot of compression on it at this point, maybe a
> coupla hundred pounds if that, but still enough to make a problem if it
> decides to go for a walk.  Or maybe if they have a press we can push it
> enough to release a plate so I can rotate it out and re-engage the screw.
>
> Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go
> to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation to
> deal with this stupid thing.
>
> --R
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 700K-mile 300SD

[Rick Knoble]

>>> I don't abuse the car; I very,very seldom drive it over 65 mph,


Probably past time to start driving like you stole it. These cars were designed 
to drive hours on end, with foot planted to the floor. 

>>> I use Marvel Mystery Oil every
>>> other oil change, don't know if that's any help or not, but I use it.
>>> Someone recommended that I use some Lucas oil additive, maybe a half-quart
>>> every other oil change.

Use Mobil 1 15w50 and change as oil testing (soot & dilution) dictate. Probably 
every 7k miles or more. 

>>> Determined that
>>> the valve guides are leaky, thus the extra smoking and oil consumption.

By who? I tend to agree with Loren (dieselhead) here, although with that many 
miles the guides could be worn out. If you have a good, low miles parts car, 
swap out the turbo and see if the oil consumption abates. It will take a long 
time to clear out the oil from the exhaust, so it will likely not quit smoking 
for some time. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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[MBZ] OBTW

[Rich Thomas]

We live on sand here, no concrete driveways or anything, so I built a 
pad out in front of the garage to work on cars -- about 10x20, 6x 2x8-16 
sleepers on the sand, with 2x12-10s for the deck.  I added about 4ft at 
the back for the ramp to get up on it.  I probably should have gone with 
12' wide, as I have about 2ft on each side to work and sit and whatnot, 
but it is not too bad.  I only slid my milk crate off once and went 
assover, which I thought was kinda funny.  About $400 for the materials, 
which is pretty decent.  I washed the car on it yesterday before I 
started working on it, I have the 2x12s tight together (no losing bits 
between them!) and the water still drained down well.  It is very solid 
and feels good to work on.


My wife was not initially in favor of this construct as she believed it 
would encourage my automotive activities, but in explaining the safety 
aspect, blahblah, I think I won her over.  She said yesterday she liked 
it.  So I guess I am at least neutral on the effort, when her car gets 
done I will gain some (temporary) points.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Rich Thomas]

Problem with taking it to the shop is that I would have to make 2 trips, 
because I can't get the R side off now.  I think what I will do is when 
I get the LCA redone, as Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>  suggests, 
just put it in there and compress it enough with the floor jack to get 
the plates rearranged, or enough to engage the threads.  I was thinking 
of that as I was taking the LCA out.  Probably should have done it 
first.  Oh well.


As far as the tool, yeah the Klann was probably a better choice, but Max 
found this one on CL and the guy had used it on his SEC to put lowering 
springs in it, he said it worked well.  It seems stout enough, but that 
bottoming out is kinda odd.  I sent an email to customer support in 
Taiwan, I wonder what I will get back...


On other aspects, the left end tie rod, inner joint, is definitely 
buggered and loose, and the upper BJ was feeling a little floppy too.  
The brake rod mount on the frame is a bit wobbly too, glad I ordered 
those new.  That explains the looseness on the left side.  R is probably 
just as bad.


I managed to get the top (upper control arm) BJ off the steering knuckle 
with a pickle fork on the air hammer, but the forks bottom out against 
the knuckle on the lower BJ and I cannot get that one popped loose from 
the LCA.  I need to find some metal shims to get in there to shim it up 
and give me some less room between the knuckle and the LCA where the BJ 
attaches, I will have to go on an archaeological expedition in my 
garage.  I have some thicker metal bits around somewhere.  The other 
rubber in the control arms looks half decent but it is all getting 
replaced.  Those inner bushings in the LCA are tough to get out, I might 
take the recip saw to them as pounding with a punch was not having great 
effect.


I have been taking lots of notes and pics, I will put up a blog when I 
am done to document it all.  It started to sprinkle a bit, so I came in 
to have lunch.  Looks like it is not precipitating now, so back out...


--R

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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Russ Williams]

Rich take it to the shop when you go press the new BJ's in and use the Press
to compress the spring enough to release the plates.

On 3/31/2012 10:55 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring 
compressor that Max found, 
eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=data&id=355&top=0  it seems 
like a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented from 
Rusty last time I did the job on the 123.


Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of 
spring (first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the 
spring out no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set 
in the plate pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the 
compressor all the way extended and there was still compression on the 
spring so I can't get it out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I try to 
turn it back to tighten it to put it back in the car to compress it a 
bit and hold it compressed, to rotate the plates some to get some 
slack (they are interlocked top and bottom now with the teeth on both 
ends locked in the pockets on the plates, so the whole thing rotates), 
and I run into this "feature" :


Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
***automatic freewheel

   at end of stroke.***

Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I 
cannot recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!


So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates 
around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under 
the car frame and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a 
bit (I think I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking 
that is dangerous as hell and really do not want to mess up my day.  
Or maybe use the floor jack (which has a round pocket on the lift arm) 
to put it under the car and push it up a tad.  Or if I should go to 
oreilly's and borrow one of their cheapo compressors, use that just 
enough to get some slack on the system.  There is probably not a whole 
lot of compression on it at this point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds 
if that, but still enough to make a problem if it decides to go for a 
walk.  Or maybe if they have a press we can push it enough to release 
a plate so I can rotate it out and re-engage the screw.


Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta 
go to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over 
creation to deal with this stupid thing.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Jaime Kopchinski]

I bought and used one of those JTC compressors just once.  I didn't fit the
hole in the inner fender of the W123 without a bit of grinding.  No way it
would fit a W116.  Quality was questionable.  I got rid of it and bought
the real Klann tool with a friend.  Between the two of us, and the several
jobs I've done with it already, it was worth the extra money.  Its a joy to
use and I don't have to fear for my life or bones nearly as much.

I always recommend buying or renting the Klann tool.

Jaime


On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 11:55 AM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:

> I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring
> compressor that Max found, eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.**
> php?mode=data&id=355&top=0
>  it seems like a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented
> from Rusty last time I did the job on the 123.
>
> Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring
> (first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring out
> no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the plate
> pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all the way
> extended and there was still compression on the spring so I can't get it
> out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I try to turn it back to tighten it to
> put it back in the car to compress it a bit and hold it compressed, to
> rotate the plates some to get some slack (they are interlocked top and
> bottom now with the teeth on both ends locked in the pockets on the plates,
> so the whole thing rotates), and I run into this "feature" :
>
> Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and
> ***automatic freewheel
>   at end of stroke.***
>
> Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot
> recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!
>
> So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates
> around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the car
> frame and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit (I think
> I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking that is dangerous as
> hell and really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe use the floor jack
> (which has a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it under the car and push
> it up a tad.  Or if I should go to oreilly's and borrow one of their cheapo
> compressors, use that just enough to get some slack on the system.  There
> is probably not a whole lot of compression on it at this point, maybe a
> coupla hundred pounds if that, but still enough to make a problem if it
> decides to go for a walk.  Or maybe if they have a press we can push it
> enough to release a plate so I can rotate it out and re-engage the screw.
>
> Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go
> to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation to
> deal with this stupid thing.
>
> --R
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 700K-mile 300SD

[clay monroe]

Clint, 

STEP AWAY FROM ALL THOSE ADDITIVES!  

Our most faithful, yet departed, overlord of all things Diesel, Herr Professor 
Doktor Marshall Booth was adamant about not using these things but sparingly.  
Engines were designed to run fine as they were.  Use of non mercedes fluids and 
snake oil was to be done but once a year when taking the car out of storage or 
when putting her to sleep for the winter.

The mystery oil has probably gunked up the engine and pistons, as well as 
valves.  If you want quality lubricity and wear reduction, use Mobil 1, Delvac, 
or Rotella and change oil as usual.  Diesel Purge, once a year to clean the 
injector (use as per instructions from vessel looping through injection pump).  
There is another lubrisol diesel product you can add to the tank once or twice 
a year for valve cleaning.

Biodiesel is a viable option for better lubricity on all fronts.  It will 
reduce carbon accumulations and scour the fuel system of all gunk.  Three tanks 
of B20 will do wonders.  As Don said, DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT.  Pedal to the 
metal as you climb hills, drive in S around town, so the engine works a bit 
harder and gets thing hot enough to burn off moisture and keep things clean.


Get a compression test done.  This will point to where you are having issues in 
the engine.  Adjust the valves, as they are probably allowing for unsightly air 
access.  Wet compression will show just who is not holding pressure and may 
need new rings.  After that much road time, I would bet your rings are shot.

Clean the engine thoroughly on the exterior.  What ever it takes to get 
accumulated gunk off.  This will show if there is a seal leak, or if you really 
are burning the oil.  

That is about all I have in my book.  What I know is what Gump taught me, and 
may only apply to a car of her charms


clay 


1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







On Mar 30, 2012, at 4:41 PM, OK Don wrote:

> Someone with more experience/knowledge should chime in here, but AFAIK,
> there is no manifold vacuum in these Diesels to make them smoke as you
> describe due to worn valve guides or valve seals. I thin you've got worn or
> stuck rings. If you have been driving it gently, youve probably carboned up
> the rings, etc. The usula cure is an "Italian tuneup", also known as "drive
> it like you stole it". That having been siad, my highest mileage MB is only
> 370,000 miles, so what do I konw?
> 
> On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 10:40 PM, Rolling Hills Farm <
> rollinghillsma...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> My beloved 1984 W126 300SD, as of today, has 698,883 miles on it.  Still
>> going on the original engine, with no overhaul since new.  Majority of the
>> miles are highway miles, and just like tractor-trailers that typically run
>> a million miles with no sweat due to the fact that they stay on the
>> highway, the engine is still running like a champ.  About 6 or so years
>> back, it started using oil, somewhere around 640K miles or so.  Before
>> then, it didn't even use oil between 3K-mile oil changes!  Determined that
>> the valve guides are leaky, thus the extra smoking and oil consumption.
>> Just in the past couple months, the smoking has gotten worse.  My goal
>> since the day I bought the car 13 years or so ago, was to see just how many
>> miles it would go without an overhaul before it absolutely gave up the
>> ghost and puked.  I have a parts car with a perfectly-running engine
>> (unfortunately unknown mileage), which will be replacing the engine in the
>> SD once it
>> finally dies (car itself is rust-free and still in unbelievably great
>> condition and a pure joy to drive, and after a cosmetic restoration about
>> 10 years ago, is still GORGEOUS).
>> 
>> Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on valve guide replacement.  I've
>> had 5 different people tell me that I should just leave well-enough alone,
>> and not replace the valve guides, but rather just keep driving it, adding
>> oil, and put up with the smoking.  Something about replacing valve guides
>> that might screw up something else and make things worse than they are.  As
>> I said, I want to see just how far I can push this original engine before
>> it dies.  I don't abuse the car; I very,very seldom drive it over 65 mph,
>> and religiously do oil changes every 3K miles.  It's using around 1.5
>> quarts between oil changes, which to me, is incredible given the fact that
>> the engine has never been into since the day it was built.
>> 
>> Any ideas?  Smoking issue is worse than before.  Every time I take off
>> from a stoplight, I have a lot of blue smoke (burning oil), and when I
>> start it the first time every day, it belches smoke like you wouldn't
>> believe.  Just in regular driving though, there's no visible smoke.  Engine
>> still sounds awesome (that opinion coming from comparing it to the

Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Dave in SoCal]

I may be misreading this and not understanding the interlock but are there no 
flat spots on the plates which enable it to be compressed like that in the 
linked Klann video? 
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3614495583838776006

Is lack of a bench vise the issue? Perhaps a neighbor can assist?

CL is a common source for a used vise - I got a beefy vintage Prentiss for $20.
It's saved me much grief over the years - especially when remounting MB springs.

Dave
SoCal

On Mar 31, 2012, at 8:55 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

> I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring compressor 
> that Max found, eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=data&id=355&top=0  it 
> seems like a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented from 
> Rusty last time I did the job on the 123.
> 
> Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring 
> (first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring out no 
> problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the plate pockets.  
> Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all the way extended and 
> there was still compression on the spring so I can't get it out, maybe only a 
> half inch or so.  I try to turn it back to tighten it to put it back in the 
> car to compress it a bit and hold it compressed, to rotate the plates some to 
> get some slack (they are interlocked top and bottom now with the teeth on 
> both ends locked in the pockets on the plates, so the whole thing rotates), 
> and I run into this "feature" :
> 
> Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
> ***automatic freewheel
>   at end of stroke.***
> 
> Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot 
> recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!
> 
> So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates around 
> a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the car frame 
> and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit (I think I only 
> need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking that is dangerous as hell and 
> really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe use the floor jack (which has 
> a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it under the car and push it up a tad. 
>  Or if I should go to oreilly's and borrow one of their cheapo compressors, 
> use that just enough to get some slack on the system.  There is probably not 
> a whole lot of compression on it at this point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds 
> if that, but still enough to make a problem if it decides to go for a walk.  
> Or maybe if they have a press we can push it enough to release a plate so I 
> can rotate it out and re-engage the screw.
> 
> Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go to a 
> shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation to deal 
> with this stupid thing.
> 
> —R



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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Scott Ritchey]

Rich,

I would NOT screw around with using the weight of the car or move it in any
way.  Using the floor jack may work but I'd recommend borrowing a set of
cheapie strut-type compressors from FLAPS like these:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-MacPherson-strut-spring-com
pressor/_/N-26gi?itemIdentifier=70135_0_0_

Generally. These are dangerous to use on a untethered spring but you only
need to compress it a little and it's almost uncompressed anyway.

Good luck.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 11:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring 
compressor that Max found, 
eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=data&id=355&top=0  it seems like 
a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented from Rusty 
last time I did the job on the 123.

Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring 
(first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring 
out no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the 
plate pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all 
the way extended and there was still compression on the spring so I 
can't get it out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I try to turn it back 
to tighten it to put it back in the car to compress it a bit and hold it 
compressed, to rotate the plates some to get some slack (they are 
interlocked top and bottom now with the teeth on both ends locked in the 
pockets on the plates, so the whole thing rotates), and I run into this 
"feature" :

Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
***automatic freewheel
at end of stroke.***

Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot 
recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!

So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates 
around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the 
car frame and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit 
(I think I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking that is 
dangerous as hell and really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe 
use the floor jack (which has a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it 
under the car and push it up a tad.  Or if I should go to oreilly's and 
borrow one of their cheapo compressors, use that just enough to get some 
slack on the system.  There is probably not a whole lot of compression 
on it at this point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds if that, but still 
enough to make a problem if it decides to go for a walk.  Or maybe if 
they have a press we can push it enough to release a plate so I can 
rotate it out and re-engage the screw.

Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go 
to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation 
to deal with this stupid thing.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Dieselhead]

When you are ready to assemble, put the spring in the perches on the 
car.  Put a floor jack under the LCA, and jack the spring into place 
to connect everything.  (having 3-4 hands is handy, but I git er done 
with 2 hands.)


I have never used a spring compressor except on the 124 front, (and 
111 front) and now I can do that without too.  big deal is getting 
the strut compressed and tied down to assemble the 124 front.  If you 
install new struts that are tied down, then assembling a 124 sans 
spring compressor is a cinch.



I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring 
compressor that Max found, 
eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=data&id=355&top=0  it seems 
like a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented 
from Rusty last time I did the job on the 123.


Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of 
spring (first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got 
the spring out no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth 
set in the plate pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the 
compressor all the way extended and there was still compression on 
the spring so I can't get it out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I 
try to turn it back to tighten it to put it back in the car to 
compress it a bit and hold it compressed, to rotate the plates some 
to get some slack (they are interlocked top and bottom now with the 
teeth on both ends locked in the pockets on the plates, so the whole 
thing rotates), and I run into this "feature" :


Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
***automatic freewheel

   at end of stroke.***

Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I 
cannot recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!


So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the 
plates around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it 
under the car frame and then drop the whole car down enough to 
compress it a bit (I think I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am 
also thinking that is dangerous as hell and really do not want to 
mess up my day.  Or maybe use the floor jack (which has a round 
pocket on the lift arm) to put it under the car and push it up a 
tad.  Or if I should go to oreilly's and borrow one of their cheapo 
compressors, use that just enough to get some slack on the system. 
There is probably not a whole lot of compression on it at this 
point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds if that, but still enough to 
make a problem if it decides to go for a walk.  Or maybe if they 
have a press we can push it enough to release a plate so I can 
rotate it out and re-engage the screw.


Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly 
(gotta go to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all 
over creation to deal with this stupid thing.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[WILTON]

Yep,  that's  what we BUFF guys call an Alpha Sierra - a Ah, S**t! - 
somewhat the opposite of an ATTABOY, but with much more power than an 
ATTABOY - one Aplha Sierra has been known to wipe out 50 thousand or more 
ATTABOYS.  Good luck and be careful


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 11:55 AM
Subject: [MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor


I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring 
compressor that Max found, 
eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=data&id=355&top=0  it seems like a 
good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented from Rusty last 
time I did the job on the 123.


Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring 
(first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring out 
no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the plate 
pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all the way 
extended and there was still compression on the spring so I can't get it 
out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I try to turn it back to tighten it to 
put it back in the car to compress it a bit and hold it compressed, to 
rotate the plates some to get some slack (they are interlocked top and 
bottom now with the teeth on both ends locked in the pockets on the 
plates, so the whole thing rotates), and I run into this "feature" :


Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
***automatic freewheel

   at end of stroke.***

Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot 
recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!


So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates 
around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the 
car frame and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit (I 
think I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking that is 
dangerous as hell and really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe use 
the floor jack (which has a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it under 
the car and push it up a tad.  Or if I should go to oreilly's and borrow 
one of their cheapo compressors, use that just enough to get some slack on 
the system.  There is probably not a whole lot of compression on it at 
this point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds if that, but still enough to 
make a problem if it decides to go for a walk.  Or maybe if they have a 
press we can push it enough to release a plate so I can rotate it out and 
re-engage the screw.


Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go 
to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation to 
deal with this stupid thing.


--R

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[MBZ] S**T!!! -- Spring Compressor

[Rich Thomas]

I am rebuilding the front end of mama's 300SD.  Bought this spring 
compressor that Max found, 
eng.jtc.com.tw/products/index.php?mode=data&id=355&top=0  it seems like 
a good stout unit, not a lot different from the one I rented from Rusty 
last time I did the job on the 123.


Rotated the plates around to get a good grip at top and bottom of spring 
(first attempt I needed to get more coils in the tool), got the spring 
out no problem other than fiddling a bit to get the teeth set in the 
plate pockets.  Went to uncompress the spring, got the compressor all 
the way extended and there was still compression on the spring so I 
can't get it out, maybe only a half inch or so.  I try to turn it back 
to tighten it to put it back in the car to compress it a bit and hold it 
compressed, to rotate the plates some to get some slack (they are 
interlocked top and bottom now with the teeth on both ends locked in the 
pockets on the plates, so the whole thing rotates), and I run into this 
"feature" :


Advantage :Newly developed automatic 3-point safety interlock and 
***automatic freewheel

   at end of stroke.***

Which means the screw will not engage the bottom part now, and I cannot 
recompress it to put it back in the car.  SH*T!!!


So I am pondering how to get it compressed enough to rotate the plates 
around a bit to get the thing out.  I am thinking to stick it under the 
car frame and then drop the whole car down enough to compress it a bit 
(I think I only need a 1/4 or 1/2" or so but I am also thinking that is 
dangerous as hell and really do not want to mess up my day.  Or maybe 
use the floor jack (which has a round pocket on the lift arm) to put it 
under the car and push it up a tad.  Or if I should go to oreilly's and 
borrow one of their cheapo compressors, use that just enough to get some 
slack on the system.  There is probably not a whole lot of compression 
on it at this point, maybe a coupla hundred pounds if that, but still 
enough to make a problem if it decides to go for a walk.  Or maybe if 
they have a press we can push it enough to release a plate so I can 
rotate it out and re-engage the screw.


Ideas?  I was hoping to get this job done this weekend, mostly (gotta go 
to a shop to get BJs pressed) but not if I am running all over creation 
to deal with this stupid thing.


--R

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Source for electronic rectifier control

[Craig]

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 10:35:01 -0500 OK Don  wrote:

> I can vouch for that! My first transmitter's power amp was fed 500
> volts. All I had in the junk box was a pair 450 volt capacitors, so I
> figured it would have suffienct of a margin of error built in.

Usually, you want to derate the capacitor and not run it at its voltage
rating. For commercial equipment, you want to run it at 80% of its
rating. For military, 50%.


> It worked for about six months, then one cap went bang - blew the bottom
> out and released a LOT of smoke.

Once again proving that electronics really runs on smoke. If you let the
smoke out, the electronics stops working.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Source for electronic rectifier control

[OK Don]

>
> You will need to be careful you don't exceed the voltage rating of the
> capacitor.
>
>
> Craig


I can vouch for that! My first transmitter's power amp was fed 500 volts.
All I had in the junk box was a pair 450 volt capacitors, so I figured it
would have suffienct of a margin of error built in. It worked for about six
months, then one cap went bang - blew the bottom out and released a LOT of
smoke. Needless to say, I wasn't able to complete that conversation (CW, 80
meters).

-- 
OK Don KD5NRO
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Source for electronic rectifier control

[Craig]

On Tue, 27 Mar 2012 22:27:34 -0500 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Alles:
> 
> I need a source for a  25 Amp 110 volt AC (input) variable linear DC 
> voltage control.
> 
> A listing of components to build one would be ok too.
> 
> Could I build such a thing out of one of the variacs I have with a 
> full wave bridge rectifier?  What else might be needed for this 
> approach?

It depends on what quality of DC power you need and how you are going to
use it.

If you don't mind the DC not being grounded, are careful with isolation
of the output to ground, and don't want accurate regulation, all you need
is a full wave bridge rectifier and a big hairy capacitor, BHC (tm). You
will need to be careful you don't exceed the voltage rating of the
capacitor.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 700K-mile 300SD

[Jaime Kopchinski]

I agree guys... Turbo sounds likely here also

Jaime


On Sat, Mar 31, 2012 at 9:35 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

> I thought of that last night on my way home, too, since I think mine is on
> the way out.
>
> A bad turbo can dump large amounts of oil out both ends -- into the
> intake, causing rough idle and blue smoke on startup, and into the exhaust
> causing smoke under power as the oil burns in the exhaust pipe.  It will
> also cause serious buildup of coked oil in the exhaust, as it did on my
> Volvo TD.  Spewed burning chunks of carbon after I replaced the turbo!
>
> The lack of power is due to the lack of boost.  You can also get excess
> smoke at low speeds from over-fueling when the turbo doesn't come up to
> speed and you are shoving the pedal down.
>
> Turbos aren't expensive, and if it's not been replaced, I'd not be
> surprised ti was shot.
>
> Peter
>
>
> On Mar 30, 2012, at 9:33 PM, Max wrote:
>
>  Rolling Hills Farm  wrote:
>>
>>  Hi all,
>>>
>>> My beloved 1984 W126 300SD, as of today, has 698,883 miles on it.
>>>  Still going on the original engine, with no overhaul since new.
>>>
>>>
>> Clint, how certain is your diagnoses that the valve guides are the
>> problem?  At that mileage, smoke and reduced power might also mean a faulty
>> turbo, I believe.
>>
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>> ___
>>
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Pinstripes 85 300tdt

[Dimitri Seretakis]

All my MBs with pinstripes have the same signature painted on the right trunk 
lid corner - two footprints. Must have been a prolific pinstripper back in the 
day. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 31, 2012, at 8:41 AM, Jaime Kopchinski  wrote:

This is really a personal preference.  Its true that no cars came from the
factory with pinstripes.  But lots of dealers did it to all their cars when
being sold.  It nearly impossible to find a car around here in NJ without
pinstripes.

The right color pinstripe can really make the car stand out.  While it also
looks very nice without.  Although I'm very picky about my originality, I
think pinstripes are part of being a US car and perfectly acceptable.

If you go for it... get them painted.  The guys that do it are real
artists.  And the stick on ones aren't as nice.

Jaime


On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:47 AM, Karl Wittnebel wrote:

Hi All,

Random trivia question: did the wagon come with pinstripes? Just
repainted. I will put them back if they came from the factory.

Thanks,
Karl
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Re: [MBZ] 700K-mile 300SD

[Peter Frederick]

I thought of that last night on my way home, too, since I think mine  
is on the way out.


A bad turbo can dump large amounts of oil out both ends -- into the  
intake, causing rough idle and blue smoke on startup, and into the  
exhaust causing smoke under power as the oil burns in the exhaust  
pipe.  It will also cause serious buildup of coked oil in the  
exhaust, as it did on my Volvo TD.  Spewed burning chunks of carbon  
after I replaced the turbo!


The lack of power is due to the lack of boost.  You can also get  
excess smoke at low speeds from over-fueling when the turbo doesn't  
come up to speed and you are shoving the pedal down.


Turbos aren't expensive, and if it's not been replaced, I'd not be  
surprised ti was shot.


Peter

On Mar 30, 2012, at 9:33 PM, Max wrote:


Rolling Hills Farm  wrote:


Hi all,

My beloved 1984 W126 300SD, as of today, has 698,883 miles on it.
 Still going on the original engine, with no overhaul since new.



Clint, how certain is your diagnoses that the valve guides are the  
problem?  At that mileage, smoke and reduced power might also mean  
a faulty turbo, I believe.


--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___

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Re: [MBZ] Pinstripes 85 300tdt

[Jaime Kopchinski]

This is really a personal preference.  Its true that no cars came from the
factory with pinstripes.  But lots of dealers did it to all their cars when
being sold.  It nearly impossible to find a car around here in NJ without
pinstripes.

The right color pinstripe can really make the car stand out.  While it also
looks very nice without.  Although I'm very picky about my originality, I
think pinstripes are part of being a US car and perfectly acceptable.

If you go for it... get them painted.  The guys that do it are real
artists.  And the stick on ones aren't as nice.

Jaime


On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:47 AM, Karl Wittnebel wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Random trivia question: did the wagon come with pinstripes? Just
> repainted. I will put them back if they came from the factory.
>
> Thanks,
> Karl
> -- next part --
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Merc Wagon.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 313127 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20120327/75566a11/attachment.jpe
> >
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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