Re: [MBZ] Mercedes brake lines

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Yeah, there are a couple of wicked sharp bends in the existing lines :/ (maybe 
1/4 internal radius...)

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> On Sep 26, 2014, at 17:05, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> You can't use the spring type benders on these because they won't fit over 
> the fittings.
> 
> I have a little conduit type bender I bought at an auto parts store years ago 
> that worked quite well once you got the hang of it.
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 26, 2014, at 4:43 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I haven't done this job but I think you want to use a tool so you don't kink
>> the line.  I've seen two kinds,  One is like a conduit bender where you bend
>> the line around a circular form.  The other is like a spring that fits over
>> the tube to prevent kinking.  I can't recommend which is best.
>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>>> John Reames via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Friday, September 26, 2014 3:57 PM
>>> To: Dan Penoff; Mercedes Discussion List
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes brake lines
>>> 
>>> Do you end up needing any tools to bend them or are they soft enough to
>>> bend by hand without crushing?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> John W Reames
>>> jream...@verizon.net
>>> Home: +14106646986
>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 26, 2014, at 15:17, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Always been that way.
>>>> 
>>>> Dan
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>> 
>>>>> On Sep 26, 2014, at 2:54 PM, John Reames via Mercedes
>>>  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you
>>> have to do that yourself!
>>>>> 
>>>>> --
>>>>> John W Reames
>>>>> jream...@verizon.net
>>>>> Home: +14106646986
>>>>> Mobile: +14437915905
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes brake lines

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Do you end up needing any tools to bend them or are they soft enough to bend by 
hand without crushing?



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> On Sep 26, 2014, at 15:17, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Always been that way.
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 26, 2014, at 2:54 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you have to 
>> do that yourself!
>> 
>> --
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[MBZ] Mercedes brake lines

[John Reames via Mercedes]

FYI, when you order them they are not bent in the proper shapes; you have to do 
that yourself!

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Re: [MBZ] AC Leak

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Drop some UV dye in it, or an oil recharge with some in it.

If it's the evaporator, you'll (eventually) see it around the condensate 
drains. Regardless, you'll have a good idea of where to look.

I wouldn't be surprised to find a leaky service valve, especially the high side 
one.

-j.

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> On Sep 20, 2014, at 20:55, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I gotta find out where it's leaking first.  I'm just concerned that it's the 
> evaporator, which the leak stuff would just be a temporary fix for anyway
> 
> Dan
> 
>> On Sep 20, 2014, at 8:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Unless it is a car you are getting rid of, fix it properly, don't ruin the 
>> system with that stuff 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Sep 20, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Looks like the S500 has a leak.  I dropped Tarek a note to see if the 
>>> evaporator was ever replaced in the car.  I'm hoping it was
>>> 
>>> On that subject, I seem to recall someone on the list using some pretty 
>>> wicked leak repair chemicals on their car with success.  While I'm not at 
>>> that point just yet, I do want to prepare myself for the possible need to 
>>> do so.  If anyone recalls what it was or is the party who used it, I would 
>>> really appreciate hearing about it.
>>> 
>>> I'm going to see the car tomorrow morning.  It was low last week to the 
>>> point of not working, and I put about 5-6 ounces of refrigerant into it.  I 
>>> still had bubbles in the sight glass, but it was cooling.  I didn't want to 
>>> overcharge it.
>>> 
>>> I will probably make arrangements for it to go somewhere for a diagnosis, 
>>> then go from that point based on what they find.
>>> 
>>> Dan
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[MBZ] Baum/El Paso follow-up

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I used it today to replace a LCA (and the lower ball joint while I was there). 

I had no problems getting the discs or center column in (w210, non-4matic).  It 
compressed smoothly (ball thrust bearings will do that for ya!), and was easy 
enough to turn with a normal 1/2" drive ratchet and a 19mm socket.  The plates 
locked into position securely and didn't give any hint of wanting to rotate. 

Tomorrow I'm gonna do the lower ball joint on the other side. (I already had 
the LCA replaced...)

One caveat; w210 lower ball joints fit into the knuckle and the LCA in a 
similar manner, except the knuckle side has a locator pin (and the taper can't 
spin on you.). 

That locator pin has a nasty habit of sticking in the knuckle (and breaking off 
there).  It's tough to get a straight shot at it, and to drill it, you really 
should pull off the rotor, hub and dust shield, but I got out a sharp center 
punch and bought some 12" long drill bits (1/8 and 3/16... Couldn't find a 7/32 
anywhere...) a bit of patience and a bit of oil later, and I had a clean hole.  
I slathered the locator pin on the replacement with a bit of anti-seize, in 
case I have to replace the ball joint ever again.



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Re: [MBZ] Double flaring tool recommendations?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Normally, I would agree, but in this instance, the line appears to have one end 
over the rear wheels at the brake hose and runs to the front of the car, near 
the master cylinder.

To further complicate matters, there are several bends with an inside radius of 
approximately 1/4" and the various bends might allow the line to be manipulated 
out if the car were on a lift.

Finally, the lines have an external coating and do not look to have any rust; I 
can clearly see where two lines have rubbed against each other and/or the rest 
of the car, right in the middle of one of those sharp bends.

I'll check the EPC for an idea of how long the lines really are, but I suspect 
that replacing the whole line is a non-starter, if only due to the overall 
length, especially where the passenger side is concerned.

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> On Sep 17, 2014, at 23:39, G Mann  wrote:
> 
> I would like to suggest you consider buying pre-made length of hard line 
> which already has double flare with the compression nuts. It is available in 
> a good selection of length at NAPA I'm sure of, other FLAPS should have it as 
> well in metric. Remove the line and use a flexible tape measure [see wifes 
> sewing box for example] to get the total length needed, then select the 
> closest available [slightly longer if shorter is next option] Then use the 
> old line as a pattern to make the bends on the new one. If the new line is a 
> bit longer, fudge on the bends a little so the accumulated bends take up the 
> extra length. 
> 
> This way, you have a line with no patches to fail and you only have to make 
> two connections and the retention clips for a good fix.. if the old line has 
> started to fail from rust.. it will fail more later.. logic.. 
> 
>> On Wed, Sep 17, 2014 at 7:50 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> Have a couple of hard brake lines that rotted/chafed (unsure of which; there 
>> are two in close proximity) right near where they make a hard 90.
>> 
>> They are the ones that go along the driver side of chassis from front to 
>> back on a 99 w210.
>> 
>> I'm sure the dealer is very proud of them, so my plan is to cut out the bad 
>> sections, then fabricate new bends and splice them in.
>> 
>> I have no intention of using compression fittings or single flares; both are 
>> known to work loose.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>>  -j.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
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[MBZ] Double flaring tool recommendations?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Have a couple of hard brake lines that rotted/chafed (unsure of which; there 
are two in close proximity) right near where they make a hard 90. 

They are the ones that go along the driver side of chassis from front to back 
on a 99 w210.

I'm sure the dealer is very proud of them, so my plan is to cut out the bad 
sections, then fabricate new bends and splice them in. 

I have no intention of using compression fittings or single flares; both are 
known to work loose.

Thanks in advance
 -j.


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Re: [MBZ] OT Beef liver (was Re: Carbine Digest, Vol 106, Issue 71)

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I was under the impression that a non-penetrating captive bolt gun was the best 
way to ensure that no nervous system tissues entered the bloodstream, with the 
idea being to further reduce the chances of BSE entering the food supply...

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> On Sep 17, 2014, at 1:50, Meade Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Recipes?  What is your preferred caliber for harvesting cows?  Calves?
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
> Pushing it again, lighten up people!
> 
> On Sep 17, 2014 12:18 AM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> If I had to choose between tripe and beef liver I would really stress out.
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Re: [MBZ] Old crash pics

[John Reames via Mercedes]

That Benz isn't that old... It used unibody/subframe construction...

I wonder how fast the driver was going before the wreck... It looks like 
excessive speed for road conditions was definitely a factor...


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> On Sep 14, 2014, at 12:01, Rich Thomas via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Scroll down the comments for some of an old Benz wrapped around a pole.  
> Scary stuff
> 
> http://jalopnik.com/crash-photos-from-the-beginning-of-motoring-are-stunnin-1634373883
> --R
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Re: [MBZ] FYI eBay spring compressor

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I called Baum and asked point-blank.

They said that it was one of their distributors, not them...

But I wouldn't be surprised if the distinction was a legal fiction for 
business, financial and/or liability purposes.

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> On Sep 13, 2014, at 12:27, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> That;s interesting, as I was looking at one of these a few weeks ago and 
> noticed that "El Paso Tools" was in the same ZIP code as Baum (they're not 
> far from me in Sarasota, FL).  I was wondering if this was a "back door" for 
> Baum to sell in the consumer space.
> 
> Sounds like it is....
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
>> On Sep 13, 2014, at 12:19 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I ordered a spring compressor from "El Paso Tools" (alkyracer101).
>> 
>> It arrived in a box sealed with "Baum Tools Unlimited" paper/filament tape.  
>> Inside the box was a heavy-gauge blow-molded case also bearing "Baum Tools 
>> Unlimited" labels.  Inside the case, the instructions were packed in a 
>> ziploc bag; the instructions also agreed with the branding. 
>> 
>> I believe that it's safe to presume that the tool is a Baum product, albeit 
>> at less than 1/4 of Baum's direct sales cost.
>> 
>> The tool itself appears to be of good quality; the center column uses a 
>> three lug design to hold the lower plate in place and prevent rotation, not 
>> unlike the Klann model, but I believe that the lugs are larger than the 
>> Klann ones.  The top end has a conical tapered section to hold the top plate 
>> in place and six lugs, not unlike a spline to prevent rotation.
>> 
>> The center column has ball bearing type thrust bearing.  This explains the 
>> note that use of power/impact tools would void the warranty, since the ball 
>> bearing would quickly develop brinelling.  The inner/lower "sleeves" are 
>> prevented from rotating by several square lugs that ride in grooves.  The 
>> upper section has grooves that are cut all the way through, which permits 
>> re-lubrication of the screw (which has a trapezoidal type thread instead of 
>> the square or even triangular threads as are found on cheaper units).
>> 
>> The screw itself looks to have a black oxide or similar finish, with the 
>> rest of the center column looks like it has been parkerized with a black 
>> finish.  It looks like the top end of the tool is possibly a little larger 
>> in diameter than the Klann unit that I rented from Rusty a while back (based 
>> on my memory of how it felt in my hand)
>> 
>> The plates look to be a lighter grey parkerized finish, and are nice and 
>> thick; there are two different sizes of plates, just like the Klann.  
>> 
>> Overall weight of the tool set in its case is close to 15 lbs.  I definitely 
>> feel safe in using it; I am almost tempted to replace a a cracked LCA and 
>> ball joints in a W210 despite the rain, but I am not going to for safety 
>> reasons.
>> 
>> I'll let y'all know how well it works after I get those jobs done.  I think 
>> it's a heck of a good buy at about $150 shipped!
>> 
>> -j. 
>> 
>> --
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>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
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[MBZ] FYI eBay spring compressor

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I ordered a spring compressor from "El Paso Tools" (alkyracer101).

It arrived in a box sealed with "Baum Tools Unlimited" paper/filament tape.  
Inside the box was a heavy-gauge blow-molded case also bearing "Baum Tools 
Unlimited" labels.  Inside the case, the instructions were packed in a ziploc 
bag; the instructions also agreed with the branding. 

I believe that it's safe to presume that the tool is a Baum product, albeit at 
less than 1/4 of Baum's direct sales cost.

The tool itself appears to be of good quality; the center column uses a three 
lug design to hold the lower plate in place and prevent rotation, not unlike 
the Klann model, but I believe that the lugs are larger than the Klann ones.  
The top end has a conical tapered section to hold the top plate in place and 
six lugs, not unlike a spline to prevent rotation.

The center column has ball bearing type thrust bearing.  This explains the note 
that use of power/impact tools would void the warranty, since the ball bearing 
would quickly develop brinelling.  The inner/lower "sleeves" are prevented from 
rotating by several square lugs that ride in grooves.  The upper section has 
grooves that are cut all the way through, which permits re-lubrication of the 
screw (which has a trapezoidal type thread instead of the square or even 
triangular threads as are found on cheaper units).

The screw itself looks to have a black oxide or similar finish, with the rest 
of the center column looks like it has been parkerized with a black finish.  It 
looks like the top end of the tool is possibly a little larger in diameter than 
the Klann unit that I rented from Rusty a while back (based on my memory of how 
it felt in my hand)

The plates look to be a lighter grey parkerized finish, and are nice and thick; 
there are two different sizes of plates, just like the Klann.  

Overall weight of the tool set in its case is close to 15 lbs.  I definitely 
feel safe in using it; I am almost tempted to replace a a cracked LCA and ball 
joints in a W210 despite the rain, but I am not going to for safety reasons.

I'll let y'all know how well it works after I get those jobs done.  I think 
it's a heck of a good buy at about $150 shipped!

-j. 

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Re: [MBZ] Generator doesn't generate

[John Reames via Mercedes]

A lot of portable generators have the white wire tied to the bare/green ground; 
that is the grounded conductor is tied to the grounding one. 

This makes the generator a "separately derived power source", which needs 
special treatment.  

The underlying issue is that (for safety reasons), the grounded and grounding 
conductors can only be tied at one point, and that point is just after your 
main disconnect, which is usually your main panel.  If you notice, any 
subpanels have the tie removed (as it should).

There are two possible ways to correctly handle this.  

One is to have a subpanel with a three pole two position "disconnect".  Both 
poles and the white (neutral) would need to be switched.  One position would 
connect to a feed from the main panel, the other would need to connect to the 
generator.  This method would require a dedicated grounding rod to be connected 
to the generator.

The other, and simpler method is to disconnect the tie between the grounded and 
grounding conductors in the generator circuitry (if possible).  No additional 
ground rod is needed.  To be truly correct, you would still need to use either 
a two pole two position "disconnect" type switch (without switching the 
neutral), or more properly to use a separate feed breaker for the generator 
input (using a breaker that is appropriately rated for the generator!) and a 
panel faceplate that physically prevents both the breaker on the feed from the 
main panel and the feed from the breaker from being on at the same time.

In either case, the input to the house from the generator should accept  the 
receptacle end of an extension cord so as to prevent any attempts to use the 
input as a normal circuit.

(Don'tcha love code compliance?)

You'll probably want to verify the above with a local electrician, but based 
upon my limited understanding of the code as a layperson, the above methods 
should be largely correct.

YMMV, IANAL, and all the usual disclaimers...
-j.

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> On Sep 12, 2014, at 11:38, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm not sure why they would have a 120/240 socket without the genres to being 
> wired that way.
> 
> If you have the cover off the junction box it would be easy enough to check.
> 
> The generator is a four lead machine, so there will be four large wires 
> coming out typically labeled 1,2,3 &4. 1 and 2 are one stator winding, 3 and 
> 4 are another.
> 
> If they are connected in parallel, the generator is wired for straight 120v. 
> If they are wired in series and the common connection between the two is 
> grounded and/or tied to the neutral, it's a 120/240v setup.
> 
> Dan
> 
>> On Sep 12, 2014, at 10:41 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:
>> 
>> One last question.
>> If my four pole twistlock outlet is labeled 120v/240v, is there any need to 
>> test the generator, or is it safe to just assume you can power a 120v/240v 
>> breaker box with it? (I've heard that some generators don't have a solid 
>> neutral that splits the 240v outlet into two safe 120v halves, and the way 
>> to test it is to try to run a 120v light bulb off one leg of the 240v outlet)
>> 
>> Mitch.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT propane burners

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I've got an old style Ducane, bought it before Weber killed all the old 
aluminum ones off.  After 8+ years, I finally had a problem--the rotary igniter 
seized.  I lit it with a match through the handy holes in the front made for 
that purpose, then ordered a new one for something like $15.

I suppose I will need to get new ceramic pyramids in a couple of more years...

Admittedly the paint is a little rough on the outside; when it gets too bad I 
will probably strip it and use some high temp black paint on it. Also, the 
upper racks are plain steel and are getting rusty, so they will eventually 
fail, but are OK for now. 

The only real maintenance I do to it is to pull it apart before the first 
grilling of the season and ensure that the critters that may have used it in 
the winter are fully evicted... I also wash it down at that time.  The original 
stainless grates and the original stainless burners are still fine.

Otherwise, I let it run for 10 mins before and after each grilling, then hit it 
with a wire brush.

I do make use of a smoke box, and can keep the temperature steady as low as 
225, and have used it to smoke pork shoulders and other roasts.

When it finally dies, I will probably get some kind of kamado, like a BGE...

Anyhow, if you can find one (like on CL), it might be worth investigating.  I 
think they are the 123's of gas grills.


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> On Sep 12, 2014, at 10:50, Rich Thomas via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Well, actually I did intend to use them.  Thought my son would, he was living 
> in a Philly row house that had a deck on the roof but I think all they did 
> was drink beer up there so he never got it out. And we used to go to the 
> beach all the time and cook there, but here we can't drive on the beach so 
> that has been a limiting factor.  I have 2 old Char-broils, both nice 
> aluminum bodies but cheap burners, I had bought one for my dad and had one 
> for ages, I got his when I cleaned out their stuff, it had not been used much 
> but the burners were rusting like on mine.  Easy enough to find, but $20 or 
> $30 every few years...
> 
> My kids can deal with them when they have to clean out all my sh...tuff.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
> 
>> On 9/12/14 10:32 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>> You sound like my wife "its such a great deal we should buy it!" even though 
>> we don't need it and will never use it...
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> 
>> *From:* Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
>> *To:* mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> *Sent:* Friday, September 12, 2014 10:23 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [MBZ] OT propane burners
>> 
>> I was at Lowes one day 3 or 4 years ago, they were having a parking lot
>> sale cleaning out a lot of random stuff.  They had 2 portable SS grills
>> new in boxes, were like $100 originally, marked down to $20. I bought
>> both of them just because, gave one to my son who never used it, so I
>> got that back.  Both still in the garage as I have not had occasion to
>> use them, but for that deal...
>> 
>> --R
> 
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Re: [MBZ] commuting by bicycle (was: Re: Testing Prius)

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I don't know whether his commute is flat or not.  I have a 9.3 mile commute, 
which sounds nice and easy, but then you look at a topo map...

In mine, the peak elevation is 397ft, the lowest is 59ft.  In the first 2-2.5 
miles, there is a single rise of 150ft in 0.2 miles distance, followed by a 
drop of 75ft in 0.1 miles, followed by a rise of 75ft in 0.1 miles. The rest of 
the morning commute doesn't have any rises over about 55ft, and is basically 
downhill to the end at 62ft of elevation. A nice relaxed 9.3 mile bike ride.

BTW, If driving an electric car is "drinking the [green] Kool-Aid" (not to be 
confused with flavoraid of Jonestown fame), then at least the smart ED is 
"proper" German [green] Kool-Aid.  (And for bonus points, 
http://www.forbes.com/pictures/ehmk45mgef/1-smart-fortwo-electric-drive/ ... 
For those times when you really want to annoy people with a greener-than-thou 
attitude.)


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> On Sep 11, 2014, at 17:01, ernest breakfield via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> just ride easier.
>that kind of distance is an easy twiddle of the pedals; i do further than 
> that in work clothes frequently (albeit not in a full suit), even when i have 
> meetings, and don't arrive significantly sweatier or any less presentable 
> than i usually am,...
> 
> 
> cheers!
> e
> 
>> On 11/Sep/14 10:39, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
>> Nah, I'd get too sweaty.
>> 
>> On Thu, Sep 11, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I hadn't noticed the RT when I read the post originally. With that in mind
>>> a bicycle is indeed the absolute best choice. Considering where Andrew is
>>> he'd easily get 8 months of riding in each year. If you're worried about
>>> being sweaty in the morning get one of those electric assist bikes.
>>> 
>>> -Curt
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  From: Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
>>> To: Andrew Strasfogel ; Mercedes Discussion List <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>>> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2014 1:32 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Bike!
>>> 
>>> --R
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 9/11/14 10:59 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
 Other than a Prius, what is the cheapest used electric car I can get for
>>> my
 15 mile RT commute?
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius

[John Reames via Mercedes]

How about a cheap new vehicle.

Lease a smart ED with the battery assurance plus (BAP).

Note that MBUSA has captured and retained the $7500 federal incentive, but it's 
passed on to you anyway.

The finance charges on the lease work out to about 1%.

Anyhow, the "official" deal is $999 down and $139/mo for 36 months, with 30k 
miles over the life of the lease.

In Maryland, with taxes, tags, destination fee, etc, it's $3250 down (but it 
qualifies for a $2200 rebate from MD MVA) and $145/mo.

-j.

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> On Sep 11, 2014, at 10:59, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Other than a Prius, what is the cheapest used electric car I can get for my
> 15 mile RT commute?
> 
> On Thu, Sep 11, 2014 at 10:34 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Yeah right, I've got a bridge to sell you.
>> 
>> Nobody I know with a Prius that drives an extensive highway commute gets
>> 45mpg, 35-40 is the norm.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: archer75--- via Mercedes 
>> To: Peter Frederick ; Mercedes Discussion List <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2014 10:23 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius
>> 
>> 
>> Prius get 40 to 45 mpg minimum on the highway.  Plug-in Prius gets 95 mpg
>> combined city and highway.
>> http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2012_Toyota_Prius.shtml
>> Gerry
>> 
>> On Thu, 11 Sep 2014 08:46:20 -0500
>> Peter Frederick via Mercedes  wrote:
>> 
>>> A Prius for me would be a problem, I do way too much open road
>>> driving, where they get 22mpg.  Takes a lot of gasoline to haul that
>>> huge battery down the highway for half an hour with no regenerative
>>> braking.
>>> 
>>> They do great in town, but not so good long distance.
>>> 
>>> My uncle likes his, bought it when they first came out, but he hasn't
>>> driven outside suburban conditions for decades.
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> -
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8194 - Release Date: 09/11/14
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> arche...@embarqmail.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius and changing subjects

[John Reames via Mercedes]

*Ahem*

Generalizations aren't always correct.

(I drive an electric car; as previously discussed, it is perfect for the needs 
I lease it for... I'm definitely not a fruit, although I suppose whether or not 
I am a nut might be a matter for debate...)

Btw, it costs me about $4 per hundred miles in energy costs; the average 
consumption in the first 720 miles, including my learning how to optimize my 
driving, and some driving by those who haven't figured out the magic of 
regenerative braking, is 3.5 mi/kWh. I am regularly getting 3.9-4.3 mi/kWh 
these days. The estimated range is 80-85mi (EPA is 63). I can't complain about 
it at all, especially being able to park and squeeze through "impossible" spots!

I'll still take one of the W210.025's for any long trip or where there is need 
for more than 2 seats.

OB MB content: The electric car is a smart ED.
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> On Sep 10, 2014, at 14:02, clay via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> those electro cars are owned by fruits and nuts
> 
>> On Sep 10, 2014, at 8:42 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>> Let me suggest that apples and peaches have little to do with a Prius.
>> 
>> RB
>> 
>>> On 09/09/2014 10:48 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I'm sure there is at least one heritage and heirloom apple site on the 
>>> internet, with pictures.
>>> 
>>> You can indeed identify your tree by the apples.
>>> 
>>> My boss up in Canada had some trees up the hill behind the house that I 
>>> think were SnowQueen or Famouse (sp) -- one of the original named apples 
>>> from ether England or France.  The house was originally built before the 
>>> American Revolution  (Sailor's Encampment on St. Joseph's Island, Ontario), 
>>> and I suspect from the condition and appearent age of the trees, they had 
>>> been there since the place was built.
>>> 
>>> Bright but darkish red skin with pronounced red streaks in the flesh, 
>>> small, and the best tasting apples I've ever eaten.
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
>>> ___
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Prius

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Speaking of ID'ing cars... When taking long drives in the wee hours, has anyone 
(else) taken to guessing car make/model etc by the head/tail lights?

It does have some practical purpose... I bet that you learn to spot American 
SUV's (particularly Ford) and American full-size sedans first...


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> On Sep 9, 2014, at 3:36, Gerald L Bailey  via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dimitri wrote:
> Priapism.
> 
> Gerry wrote:
> If I buy a Prius I'll put a Mercedes star and a 300D insignia on it so people 
> will think it's just another brain fart from Mercedes designers in Germany.  
> Few people can identify a car by it's shape. 
> Gerry
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I've gotten a few (yellow freestone and some white ones) from a local farmer... 
(And I can always find a place to park close to the stand instead of quite a 
ways back...)

It's hard to say which I enjoy more, but you need a paper towel to eat either 
variety.

Btw what's this newfangled fad with "donut peaches"?

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> On Sep 8, 2014, at 18:14, Rich Thomas via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> SC grows more peaches (the fruit kind) than GA, and a bunch more varieties 
> too.  Right now I am getting some large freestones that are very sweet and 
> tasty.  The different varieties seem to come in at different times.
> 
> Wilton is a riot.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
>> On 9/8/14 5:55 PM, WILTON via Mercedes wrote:
>> 'Saw some mighty fine-looking GA peaches when we lived in Warner Robins - 
>> the fruit was mighty good, too.  ;<)
>> One of 'em was our babysitter, who lived across the street - Miss GA, 1968 
>> or '69.
>> 
>> Wilton
>> 
>> - Original Message - From: "Gary Hurst via Mercedes" 
>> 
>> To: "Rich Thomas" ; "Mercedes 
>> Discussion List" 
>> Sent: Monday, September 08, 2014 5:47 PM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius
>> 
>> 
>>> the best peaches i've seen are on the GA/SC border area.  new jersey also
>>> has great peaches that aren't talked about enough.
>>> 
>>> i'd rather an SC peach than a GA peach as i am more confident an SC peach
>>> will come from this region
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 5:41 PM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
 I go across the road and get fresh SC peaches.  0.5 mile round trip, a bit
 over 3 minutes
 
 --R
 
 
> On 9/8/14 4:46 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
> 
> SWMBA came down from AK to get her household effects.  She also wanted to
> do her annual peach canning session.  I figured out the fruit stand over
> the mountains was open fairly early, so I did the 200 mile trip to get her
> three boxes.   A bit over three hours before breakfast, and I had fresh
> fruit on my corn flakes.
> 
> 
> 
> clay
 
 
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>>> 
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[MBZ] FYI 85 123.133 for sale; usable for parts

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Mainly drive-train stuff is usable; radiator and oil cooler are no good; body 
has rust-through in several places, so some body stuff might be usable.

It's in Towson, MD (21204); I thought I would give everyone here a shot at it 
before CL or the wrecker.

It was running well until it abruptly stopped, mangling the front end.

-j

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Prius

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I've got a smart ED, and the limited range is fine for me.  If I were always 
charging it at home (as opposed to at the train station...) I would be paying 
less than $4/100mi in electricity.

For the most part it handles like it has sport suspension, and corners 
exceptionally well (due to the battery pack being under the floorpan), but it 
can be rough on dips/potholes and speed bumps.  I believe it would be possible 
to get serious air time off of one of the "traffic calming" speed humps... Time 
for a "General Wee" paint job/wrap? (See http://facebook.com/generalwee for a 
photo...)

But it is totally impractical for any long drive... And absolutely perfect as a 
runabout.

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> On Sep 5, 2014, at 0:30, Gary Hurst via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 49 mpg!  wow
> 
> i rented a kia soul recently and really liked it
> 
> 
> On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:02 AM, Archer75--- via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Rented a Prius for 24 hours yesterday since I'd never driven one. Handling
>> was very good, engine very quiet, 49 mpg for mixed road and city driving.
>> Instrumentation and controls were straightforward and visibility was
>> remarkable; rear view mirrors were surprisingly effective.  Combined with
>> its excellent repair record during the first 8 or 10 years, it would be a
>> good investment.
>> 
>> That said, I wouldn't buy one for one principal reason:  It rides rough
>> and there seems to be little cushioning by the seat; you feel every bump.
>> My old Beetles rode better.  A Mercedes seat would help but that might be
>> difficult or impossible to install.
>> 
>> My reasons for buying a new or late model car are exceptional fuel economy
>> and reliability on long trips; something the Prius would satisfy; but being
>> pounded on rough roads for hours at a time would be unpleasant and tiring.
>> 
>> Gerry..who might just drive his old Mercedes on long trips
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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> 
> *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars*
> *www.BuyEUROparts.com *
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Sacrilege

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I'm really loving my smart ForTwo ED.  It's solid and fun.

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> On Aug 11, 2014, at 13:06, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> At the Nissan dealership to drive pickups yesterday I talked him into letting 
> us drive the Nissan Leaf electric car. I know you old bastards all hate 
> anything new and different but you need to go out and try one.
> Yes its small but the seating area is about the same as my Jetta.
> No its not tinny or cheap feeling.
> Yes its VERY quiet.
> Its not slow, about the same as my Jetta.
> 100 mile rated range, the kid at the dealership has one and says 80 is more 
> likely. I enjoyed watching the range meter count up while coasting. We went 6 
> miles on 3 miles of capacity.
> 
> If I could get my employer to put in a charging station I'd seriously 
> consider one...
> 
> -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] OT - storing small parts

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Speaking of which, what does everyone use for temporary storage of not so 
little parts like bolts and such that you pull off of engines during a repair?  
I haven't seen a (metal) #10 coffee can in years.

Likewise, metal coffee cans are a thing of the past... They were great for 
washing out bearings and such.

For larger parts, I take a gallon can (like from paint thinner, etc), cut most 
of a side out and then fold the edges under to make it halfway safe.

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> On Aug 11, 2014, at 12:42, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 12:09:55 -0400 Rich Thomas via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> Get a bunch of those little baggies like the dope dealers use
>> 
>> --R
>> 
>> 
>>> On 8/11/14 11:30 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I believe that Lee Valley has small stainless steel canisters.
> 
> My wife likes SmartBalance margarine. I use those containers for various
> things, although they (even the small ones) are not as small as 35 mm
> film containers (of which I have a few).
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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[MBZ] What's the list policy on for sale stuff?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I've an 85 300d; the drivetrain seems to be in good shape but it's got a 
mangled hood, left front fender, grille, and light cluster. The front bumper 
has a scratch (deep and wide) on the top... Oil cooler and radiator are 
perforated.

But it has rust--bad; rotted through back floor in places and the trunk is 
pretty rusted through; rust is showing at the juncture of the rear quarter 
panel and the  The brake rotors are crap, forget about A/C, the rear window 
regulators are the usual sad condition, the exhaust is rotted out, the rims 
have the usual curb rash, cruise amp needs a rebuild, the trunk lid has a 
couple of reverse (from the inside) dents, one rear door check is dead (but the 
parts are likely in the door). Its not quite chicken wagon grade.

As I said, the drive train seems good (I haven't checked stretch recently, but 
it's been getting M1 for at least the past 6 years.)  I recently re-did the 
automatic antenna (the adjustable height one, starting with an ultrasonic 
cleaning), and the tires are Michelin pilots; I think they are in decent 
condition (I think they are MXM and V rated for the stiffer sidewalls...). I 
think the doors are in decent condition with respect to rust.

I'm not parting it out; make an offer (Kaleb?), BAT and take it away.  The 
location is 21204.



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Re: [MBZ] Nice W108 Rolling Chassis

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I'd be tempted (seeing as I likely have one with a mangled and apparently 
rusted out body -- looks like trunk/rear floor pans are also rotted. )

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> On Aug 4, 2014, at 23:00, Hendrik and Fay via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> What?? Nobody has piped up with the OM conversion?
> You lot are getting sloppy.
> 
> Hendrik
> who really really needs to get off the computer
> 
>> On 05/08/14 04:28, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
>> That is a steal.  Lots of good drive trains lying around.
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 2:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Just waiting for that small block Chebby:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/2102545-fs-1969-280se-w108.html#post9687825
>>> 
>>> Dan
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT printers

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I can't help but wonder how well an ultrasonic cleaner would be at de-gunking 
printheads...

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> On Aug 5, 2014, at 17:39, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Peter F. posted something on how to fix them awhile ago. I have an Epson that 
> won't go so I saved it off.
> 
> Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 23:32:56 -0500
> From: Peter Frederick 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Testing apple times
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
> 
> Here are some tips for cleaning Epson printer heads (I've done more  
> than a few, just finished up reviving an old R800 head for use in an  
> R2880).
> 
> First, the dye inks do NOT dry out in the printer.  They become very  
> viscous, but do not dry.  Pigment inks do indeed dry down, but are  
> readily resuspended.
> 
> Second, cleaning cycles are only good for removing air, they will NOT  
> fix plugs, and paradoxically, make things worse by applying a vacuum  
> to the whole head.  When the head is moved off the seal, gumming ink  
> results in a vacuum still inside, and air is sucked up from the  
> bottom, preventing the ink from being fired.
> 
> Third, the clogs from sitting unused are almost always ink collecting  
> on the bottom of the head and plugging the nozzles.  You can suck in  
> through the print head forever, and if you don't remove the collected  
> grunge it will not print.  It DOES drip ink all over, but the droplets  
> will not "fire" onto the paper.
> 
> To clean one in this condition:
> 
> Install cartridges filled with ink -- aftermarkets with third party  
> ink is a best choice, you may use quite a bit and Epson cartridges are  
> expensive for cleaning.  If you want, once you get it cleared out you  
> can switch back.
> 
> Turn the printer on and press the ink cartridge button.  Once the  
> carriage parks in the cartridge replacement station, unplug the  
> printer WITHOUT turning it off.  This leaves the carriage free to move  
> by hand.
> 
> Fold a paper towel to fit in the channel the printhead travels in over  
> the paper.  It needs to be thick enough to actually touch the  
> prinheatd but thin enough to push the printhead over.  Saturate the  
> paper towel with Windex or other spray glass cleaner.  I'm not sure I  
> would use 409, it might be too strong.  Lay the towel in the channel  
> and wipe the printhead over it.  Likely it will instantly turn black  
> with gummy ink.  Remove the towel and replace with a fresh one,  
> adjusting thickness as necessary to gently wipe the bottom of the  
> printhead until you get obvious traces of the correct ink colors.
> 
> Get a spray bottle of windex or other glass cleaner and carefully fill  
> the sponge and seal of the cartridge cappping station.  Use a dry  
> paper towel to blot up the dissolved ink until the station is mostly  
> clean.  Wipe down the rubber seal, make sure it is not gummy with  
> dried ink.
> 
> Fill the sponge in the capping station with Windex and push the  
> carriage over it.  Briefly plug the printer in until the carriage  
> drops onto the seal and unplug it again.  You don't want the pump to  
> suck the Windex out, you want to soak the bottom of the head.  Leave  
> it at least a couple hours.  Overnight is better.
> 
> Next day plug the printer in and turn it on.  It should do a quick  
> cleaning cycle.  Print a nozzle check.  If you are really lucky, you  
> will get at least most of the nozzles firing.  Ignore the fact that  
> the ink colors are likely wrong, you have been mixing the ink with  
> cleaner and it will wick up into the nozzle chambers randomly.
> 
> If you have a decent number of clear nozzles, print a purge page  
> (marruttusa.com has a selection).  By the end of the page, you should  
> be able to tell if you have decent ink flow or not.  Drips of ink onto  
> the page means you have Windex in the nozzles, it causes ink  to  
> leak.  This is not a big issue a this point.
> 
> Print another nozzle check. Should be better.  If not, do a clean  
> cycle but unplug the printer when the wiper blade is up -- it's beside  
> the capping station, watch for the printer to flip it up to wipe the  
> printhead.  Crap built up on the wiper simply plugs the nozzles by  
> wiping gummy dried ink into them, hardly a way to clear them.  Wipe it  
> down with windex, make sure it's quite clean.
> 
> Plug it back in and do one clean cycle, then print a nozzle check.  
> With some luck, a dye printer will be working pretty well by now.  
> Pigment printers require more work, usually.
> 
> If a couple cycles of soaking and printing purge pages doesn't do the  
> trick, you will have to find some syringes and plastic tubing that  
> will fit over the spikes the cartridges connect to on the printhead.  
> push the ink button and unplug the printer when the carriage is free.  
> Remove the cartridges, and fold up

Re: [MBZ] Newer Mercedes Diesel

[John Reames via Mercedes]

The 210's are a rust bucket. 
I have one that the rocker rotted out from the inside at the jack point. (It 
will eventually be going, but that's another story.)

Also those om606's have the snap-off glow plugs. 

(I was actually torquing the head bolts on the other one and had to stand down; 
the #~]^\!| Mercedes "socket" (bit) sheared off in one of the bolts.  I have 6 
more to finish the last step on.

(Yes I lubed the threads and under the heads of the bolts... I actually used 
M1. I take the "empties" and let them drip out for my oil can when doing 
changes)


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> On Jul 25, 2014, at 16:56, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> clay via Mercedes wrote:
>> Sounds about as rare as Unicorns.
>> A CDI benz should fit the bill fine.  Most of the other diesel cars 
>> available in USA are going to be junk or worse as used examples.  My cousin 
>> sold VW, and loved them fresh off the lot.  He was less than impressed with 
>> what showed up in trades or how rare it was that one would meet CPO 
>> requirements.  His opinion was Avoid At All Cost.
> 
> Yeah, unless I find a $1500 special like Curt is driving, I don't want an old 
> TDI. I saw a 'field find' older Jetta TDI on CL this spring, had way over 
> 200k mi on it, surrounded by unmowed grass. His starting price was something 
> like $3500 or $3800, and I don't think I ever saw him ask less than $3k for 
> it.
> 
> Unfortunately, it seems like a 10 year old CDI has as big a premium over a 
> e320 as a TDI has over a plain VW. And the rare turbo W210s don't seem to be 
> in any hurry to go under $5k for a decent one, more like 7-8k most of the 
> time and with pretty big odometers.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 parts

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I got in a wreck weds eve...

Trying to figure out whether they'd total it..

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On Jul 25, 2014, at 14:00, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

>> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 17:48:19 -0400
>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> Subject: [MBZ] W123 parts
>> From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> 
>> Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
>> 123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps, 
>> condenser, radiator, etc.
>> 
>> Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.
> 
> 
> Are you looking to sell said parts or purchase? 
> I know someone asked already, but I don't recall the answer...
> And I could use said parts for I wrecked one I own...
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

No bluetec has a spare to my knowledge; all of them need the aqueous urea 
injection system (50 state compliance?) 

I suppose it makes sense to steal the spare tire area for the tank; it makes 
little sense for MB to design a chassis with yet another area for a large-ish 
tank...

Also don't the bluetecs have an expensive-ish diesel particulate filter that is 
essentially a consumable?

As far as run-flats, I'd hope they also shipped with a smart type inflator and 
goo-injector system to (attempt) to seal a punctured tire...

I also wonder if it would make any sense to just toss slime in the tire ahead 
of time...

Or go back to tubing the tires (I actually did that with the tires on my 
pressure washer...)

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> On Jul 25, 2014, at 7:04, Mitch Haley  wrote:
> 
> John Reames via Mercedes wrote:
>> Two for two.
> 
> So the pee tank is where the spare belongs on a W211?
> Does the 212 have a spare tire?
> 
> Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Two for two.

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On Jul 24, 2014, at 21:57, Fmiser via Mercedes  wrote:

>>> John Reames wrote:
>>> 
>>> I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that
>>> they are runflat/def models...
> 
>> WILTON wrote:
>> 
>> runflat/def?
> 
> I'm Guessing "DEF" means "Diesel Exhaust Fluid" - or Blutech.
> Runflat I suppose refers to no spare tire as the installed tires
> are run-flat models.
> 
> But I'm just guessing...
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 parts

[John Reames via Mercedes]

State Farm may be selling all BUT the aforementioned parts

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> On Jul 24, 2014, at 9:31, Meade Dillon  wrote:
> 
> So you may be selling the afore mentioned parts?
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that they are 
runflat/def models...

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> On Jul 24, 2014, at 13:59, ned kleinhenz via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> In my search, last year,  for a CDI, I found mostly 2005 model year
> available, with a few of the almost identical 2006's also around.   These
> straight 6 models were also made in 2004 and probably earlier.  But I'm not
> sure the CDI's were available in North America before 2005.
> 
> In 2007 through 2009 they went to the Blue-Tech V-6 engine, which are
> supposed to be very nice, but certainly more expensive.
> 
> The straight six's of 2005-06 seem bullet-proof and powerful.  But this car
> also has SBC brakes, which is an electronically controlled braking system
> of controversial reliability.  The post 2007's have a more conventional
> braking system.  I remember the Chrysler affiliation ending in 2006.
> 
> I bought a 2006 CDI, with 100k mi, last October.  So far I'm really glad I
> bought it.  It is the nicest and by far the fasted MB diesel I've owned in
> my 30 years of driving 123 and 124 diesels.  I often get better than 40 mpg
> on highway.  And the electronic brakes are amazingly effective.  So far, in
> 25k+ miles, I've had no problems.  I've owned Chryslers before, and this MB
> has done nothing "Chrysler like" to me yet.
> 
> I did a fair amount of research before buying one.  Found the gasoline
> versions of the W211 were plagued with engine failures and other problems
> causing prices noticeably lower than the diesel models.  But almost every
> consumer who reviewed their diesel loved it.
> 
> I'm sure YMMV.
> Just my $0.02 worth,
> Ned Kleinhenz
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Re: [MBZ] W123 parts

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I was asking the group in general; I suspect I may be contributing to the 
availability of parts soon :/

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> On Jul 23, 2014, at 22:45, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:
> 
> If you're asking me, I have two spare grilles IIRC and a bunch of palomino 
> door and rear wagon panels 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 5:48 PM, John Reames via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
>> 123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps, 
>> condenser, radiator, etc.
>> 
>> Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.
>> 
>> --
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>> jream...@verizon.net
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[MBZ] W123 parts

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Any ideas what I'd be looking at in parts--
123.133, hood, grille, driver fender, metal behind grille, drivers lamps, 
condenser, radiator, etc.

Strangely enough I have a oil cooler.

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Re: [MBZ] W123 front speakers

[John Reames via Mercedes]

The originals are easy to get at... Remove the single screw from the grille and 
contort it out...

They originals sit in the opening... Special clip-in IIRC.

A 4" aftermarket can probably fit in there if you cut off the mounting ears 
(save 1) and make sure it does not have a protrusion (such as a 2-way) above 
the rim...

You CAN mount new ones underneath, but be careful of the eyeball vents; you 
will have to disassemble them and could break them (twisting the body with 
respect to the front ring seems to get them out relatively undamaged).

Going for under mount, you might want to keep a unit or so in your type/rh 
factor handy, especially if your hands aren't small...

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> On Jul 22, 2014, at 12:25, Rich Thomas via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Those are pretty hard to get at but doable.  I think the originals are some 
> particular size known only to gnomes in the Black Forest. I think (I can't 
> remember now for sure) I put some new ones in the TD, took a lot of 
> contortions, or maybe I did the contortions then decided it wasn't worth it.  
> They are fairly small as I recall, maybe 2 or 3 inches.  someone else 
> probably has better info and could contradict my experience, which was soon 
> after I got the car and probably pre-list.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
>> On 7/22/14 11:33 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
>> The front speakers are shot on the 1983 300TD.
>> 
>> How wasy is it to R/R the front speakers?  Anybody have any good used ones
>> sitting on a shelf?  Is it possible to purchase a pair of new or NOS
>> speakers that fit exactly without rewiring?
>> 
>> Andrew
>> Who listens exclusively to classical music when he drives his German
>> machine.  (Bach is das best accompaniment to the turbodiesel engine noise)
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Re: [MBZ] Welding again

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Why not just straight pipe the front?

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> On Jul 21, 2014, at 13:06, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> At this point its a game to see how long I can keep it going...
> 
> Curt
> 
> 
> 
> From: Kaleb C. Striplin 
> To: Curt Raymond ; Mercedes Discussion List 
>  
> Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 1:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Welding again
> 
> 
> Sounds like it is about time to just replace the exhaust
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 21, 2014, at 11:45 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Found the exhaust pipe had split on my '84 190D again, this is the pipe from 
>> the exhaust manifold to the first muffler. I've repaired it twice already, 
>> this time the break was in a new spot. 
>> Somebody suggested I weld a piece of new exhaust pipe over the break and 
>> thats what I did. It made the repair a lot quicker. Of course I had to add a 
>> bunch of little pieces to fix holes I created trying to weld the thin metal. 
>> Overall one of my better welding jobs.
>> I'm getting good at this, the whole job only took about 2 hours.
>> 
>> -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

The ed version is limited to about 80mph... But still :)

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 16:48, OK Don via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> Leasing an E-Smart sounds like a good fit for your mission profile. I've
> had Smart cars pass me when I was driving 75 on the interstate - can't be
> that bad a highway car ---
> 
> 
> On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 3:32 PM, John Reames via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> They don't seem to have the B-EV's here.
>> 
>> The smart feels solid.
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
>> But where will EV tech be in 3 years, and will anyone want a 3yr old EV in
>> 3yrs?
>> 
>> In my specific case I'm looking for something to take me to and from the
>> train station and maybe some around town driving... And maybe raise
>> awareness...
>> --
>> John W Reames
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 
> NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!
> 
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
> 
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - tile floors

[John Reames via Mercedes]

How about using the compound under some 1/2" wonderboard?

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 13:36, OK Don via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> We are trying to prepare the 250 sq. ft. concrete floor of what was once an
> auto shop (that repaired a few MB's - MB content) for 18" square ceramic
> tiles. The concrete is not all that level or smooth. We poured eight bags
> of "self leveling underlayment" on it and improved some areas, made others
> worse.
> 
> The instructions I read/watched all used a ½" electric drill to mix the 50
> lb. bag of cement like stuff into 5 qts/liters of water. I literally burnt
> up the Harbor Freight ½" drill on the fifth bag, switched to an old fixed
> speed 3/8th " drill, pulsing it to finish. I think we weren't able to keep
> mixing and pouring fast enough to keep up with the drying of the previous
> pour.
> 
> I'm considering using our home owner sized cement mixer, but wondered who
> has BTDT, and been successful?
> 
> Also, this cement mixer has a 24" long barrel that is 19" at the base and
> 16" at the throat. How many bags of sakrete should it be able to mix at
> once? If two 80 lb bags, should I be able to mix three 50 lb bags of "self
> leveling underlayment" at once???
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

They don't seem to have the B-EV's here.

The smart feels solid.

Downpayment would be $3250 or so, $143.80/month for 36 mos, and Maryland will 
send you a credit for $2,200 ($125/kWh capacity * 17.6kWh...)  that's stupidly 
cheap to rent/lease!

MBUSA retains ownership of the battery and gets the $7500 federal tax credit. 
(You get the glider and "rent" the battery).

If you opt NOT to go the rent-a-battery route (no battery assurance plus, then 
it's $3759 down and $370 a month...), but you get a $7500 tax credit from the 
Feds... The big difference is the RV at end of lease; $6695 for no-BAP, $13929 
for BAP...

Lease is based on 10k/yr/30k on lease, but there is a certain challenge 
associated with going more than 10k/yr with a car that gets 80 or so miles on a 
8hr (240V)/16hr (120V) charge...

Outright purchase is $25,750 and BAP adds $80/month...

But where will EV tech be in 3 years, and will anyone want a 3yr old EV in 3yrs?

In my specific case I'm looking for something to take me to and from the train 
station and maybe some around town driving... And maybe raise awareness...
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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 14:00, Jaime Kopchinski  wrote:
> 
> Oh yeah, I missed this part about the ED...  I've driven one briefly...  not 
> long enough to form an opinion.
> 
> Have you considered the new B class EV?  I've drive that much more... very 
> nice car.  It has the benefits of a back seat, storage space, and it goes 
> like hell.  I was really impressed.  I forget the calculations exactly, but I 
> determined my commute would cost a fraction of what it normally would with a 
> gas car.  My commute is 45 miles each way... a charger on each end means lots 
> of flexibility and no range concerns.
> 
> Jaime
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 9:58 AM, John Reames via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> Fuel mileage with the -ed (electric drive) is non-existent. (And they have a 
>> charging station in the garage where I park...)
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>> > On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:46, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > I would not get a smart. They are very very small and really do not get 
>> > all that good fuel mileage
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >> On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:17 AM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>> >>  wrote:
>> >>
>> >> The new smart was just announced... It might be worth while to wait!
>> >>
>> >> Jaime
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Saturday, July 19, 2014, John Reames via Mercedes 
>> >> 
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD
>> >>> rust issues.
>> >>>
>> >>> Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
>> >>>
>> >>> Any thoughts?
>> >>>
>> >>> -j.
>> >>>
>> >>> --
>> >>> John W Reames
>> >>> jream...@verizon.net 
>> >>> Home: +14106646986
>> >>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> >>> ___
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>> >>>
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>> >>>
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>> >>> individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
>> >>> has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Jaime Kopchinski
>> >> http://www.jaimekop.com/
>> >> ___
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>> >>
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>> >> individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner 
>> >> has no control over the content of the messages of each contribu

Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Okay I think my phone suffered an error between the touchscreen and the lawn 
chair...

Anyhow, I was going to comment that courtesy of Amtrak and the Maryland Amateur 
Railroad Club (MARC henceforth), I've had the pleasure of a commuter train ride 
that left Baltimore at 0550 and pulled into DC at 0945...

The ticketing agents were no help :P

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:28, Rich Thomas  
> wrote:
> 
> Nothing about ED is SMART!  There are medications that can help. But if your 
> commute lasts longer than 4 hours, see your dealer.
> 
> --R
> 
> 
>> On 7/19/14 9:02 AM, John Reames via Mercedes wrote:
>> My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust 
>> issues.
>> 
>> Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
>> 
>> Any thoughts?
>> 
>> -j.
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
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>> no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:28, Rich Thomas  
> wrote:
> 
> Nothing about ED is SMART!  There are medications that can help. But if your 
> commute lasts longer than 4 hours, see your dealer.

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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Fuel mileage with the -ed (electric drive) is non-existent. (And they have a 
charging station in the garage where I park...)

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:46, "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would not get a smart. They are very very small and really do not get all 
> that good fuel mileage
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:17 AM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> The new smart was just announced... It might be worth while to wait!
>> 
>> Jaime
>> 
>> 
>> On Saturday, July 19, 2014, John Reames via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD
>>> rust issues.
>>> 
>>> Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
>>> 
>>> Any thoughts?
>>> 
>>> -j.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> John W Reames
>>> jream...@verizon.net 
>>> Home: +14106646986
>>> Mobile: +14437915905
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>>> 
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>>> individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
>>> has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
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>> http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] OT Senior Traffic Stop

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Well that's one way to clean my screen!

:)

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 8:28, Meade Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> A little humor for your Saturday morning...
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
> -- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I suspect an old (240dl) Swedish brick has better aerodynamics (or at least a 
lower Cd...

My usual commute to the train station is about 10-12 miles...

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:21, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
>> Do not expect to take long trips in a Smart -- my brother's BIL drove one 
>> from Karlsruhe to Berlin a few years ago just to see.  He took the train 
>> home, those tiny tires and very short wheelbase result in constant jouncing. 
>>  If it's miserable on a short trip (by American standards) it's too bouncy 
>> for me to drive to work!
> 
> I always wondered why the hwy mpg stinks for such a small car. I guess they 
> see it as a city car and the gearing is short to help discourage highway 
> driving?
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I understand the -ed's can be had on lease for sub-150/month; that includes the 
battery protection that's $80/month on a purchased one.

I wouldn't expect to go more than 60 miles before having an overnight wait...

I expect lead time will be a couple of months at least.

The one thing that WOULD be nice is a 6kW charger instead of a 3kW one.

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> On Jul 19, 2014, at 9:08, Meade Dillon  wrote:
> 
> Used or new?
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
>> On Jul 19, 2014 9:02 AM, "John Reames via Mercedes"  
>> wrote:
>> My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust 
>> issues.
>> 
>> Gonna go get SMART-ed ;)
>> 
>> Any thoughts?
>> 
>> -j.
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
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[MBZ] Branching out in the MB family

[John Reames via Mercedes]

My usual commute is to the train station; one of the 210.025's has BAD rust 
issues. 

Gonna go get SMART-ed ;) 

Any thoughts?

-j.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Anyone for Dropbox?

[John Reames via Mercedes]

You should probably use a non-transmitting NIC or a unidirectional ethernet 
cable ;)



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> On Jul 18, 2014, at 13:15, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> HA!
> 
> When I worked for the fire alarm company I was just starting to play with 
> Linux and managed to get it working on an old laptop. I was also just 
> starting to learn about networking and found a pretty cool packet sniffer. I 
> installed said sniffer, plugged it into the corporate network in one of the 
> classrooms, sniffed around a little but didn't see anything exciting so put 
> the laptop back in my office (the video editing suite really) and hung around 
> talking with some friends in the classroom.
> About 15 minutes go by and a guy from corporate IT shows up counting ports. 
> He wouldn't say what he was up to but I had a pretty good idea. Later I found 
> a pallet of those laptops which the company was throwing away. I made up a 
> bunch of linux systems that would boot and sniff packets on a timer. I set 
> them to lead the IT guys on a merry chase around our 1 million square foot 
> facility. Hilarity ensued. Especially when he got to the one on the catwalk 
> over the panel baking oven on the manufacturing floor. They put network drops 
> in the darnedest places...
> 
> -Curt
> 
> 
> 
> From: Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> To: Mitch Haley ; Mercedes Discussion List 
>  
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 1:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Anyone for Dropbox?
> 
> 
> Head of corporate security at Kohler was a neighbor of mine. Former Air Force 
> MP with the typical control and superiority complexes that many of these guys 
> have (he was short, too.)
> 
> One time when he got loaded at a neighborhood party he started mouthing off 
> about the keywords they had set up in the email system to flag messages for 
> potential thefts, subversion, corporate espionage, etc.
> 
> I made note of every one.
> 
> The next week at work I got with a bunch of fellow workers and shared the 
> list. We then went out of our way to incorporate every one of the words in 
> every email we possibly could.
> 
> After this guy's wife divorced him a year or two later, she told me in 
> passing that one of his pet projects had gone down in flames because it took 
> too many resources (people) to manage. Turns out it was his email 
> filtering
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: [MBZ] W123 diesel injector return hose

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I got it at a lawnmower supply store because the stealer couldn't get me any on 
a Saturday and I could smell diesel fuel inside the car...

You can get it from any small engine shop or online too... I used the yellow 
variety. 

You can prob get it on amazon for less than $50 for 50ft roll...

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> On Jul 18, 2014, at 18:12, Mountain Man via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> John wrote:
>> I used Tygon as an experiment last time I changed them...
> 
> Tell me more about Tygon, please.
> Where did you purchase it?
> Did it work as well as the MB stuff?
> Is it cost competitive at 28 per meter dealer cost?
> Thanks.
> mao
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 diesel injector return hose

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I used Tygon as an experiment last time I changed them...


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> On Jul 18, 2014, at 17:45, Mountain Man via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Dealer wants 28 for meter.
> Is that the best?
> i.e. not china, and good quality?
> Has anyone tried alternative non braid covered alternatives?
> mao
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Of batteries and clocks

[John Reames via Mercedes]

That is the sort that I typeth of.

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On Jul 13, 2014, at 19:13, Jim Cathey via Mercedes  
wrote:

>> I don't recall having to disassemble the clock, that is, remove the hands.
> 
> I suppose it depends on the clock.  I only have experience
> with the ones buried in the tachometer.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Of batteries and clocks

[John Reames via Mercedes]

Yeah, the hand repaint is a good idea... What vendor paint did you use? 

I expect that you'd sort of mask the plastic head to keep it clean?

Soldering isn't any issue, as I've a 7w iron and hands (just barely) steady 
enough to use it for some SMD work... but keep that RoHS "solder" (crap) away 
from me (you can pry my 63/37 from the clutches of my cold dead hands!)

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On Jul 13, 2014, at 16:21, Jim Cathey  wrote:

>> Anyhow after replacing it, the clock is kaput.
>> Electrolytic caps?  How gnarly of a job is it?
> 
> The worst part is getting the hands off of the clock, IIRC.
> Two spoons, used as levers.  (Bowls as fulcra.)  This should
> help avoid breaking things.  You can take this opportunity
> to repaint the needles if they're faded.  IIRC a good color
> match is "tangerine".  This assumes you can solder without
> killing things, but as soldering goes it's a pretty easy one.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 

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[MBZ] Of batteries and clocks

[John Reames via Mercedes]

I finally had the battery in the 85 300d die ... 
It was reading 12.79 volts and I would just get a "click" (with all lights 
shutting off). I don't think that I can legitimately complain about it; it had 
the blessed star on it (less expensive than interstate or snears), and I saw 
"20 Jan 2007" in my handwriting on the top...

Anyhow after replacing it, the clock is kaput.

Electrolytic caps?

(It used to make a ticking noise previously...)

How gnarly of a job is it?


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[MBZ] Any chance of finding

[John Reames]

A w123 package shelf and first aid box lid? Palomino preferred Cut for 
factory speaker holes is fine too.

Thanks much



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Re: [MBZ] fuel T'Stat O-Rings

[John Reames]

I can assure you the new manuals are LOVELY; the om606 manual admonishes the 
the mechanic to remove the cam bearing caps in the reverse of installation 
sequence, but the sequence is nowhere to be found.  (Nor is the footnote that 
states the sequence is the same as the 603's sequence)

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> On Jun 24, 2014, at 18:18, Craig  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:46:33 -0400 Larry Turner 
> wrote:
> 
>> I've browsed the WSM but all I can find that talks about the FT is 
>> the IP removal page which goes into tremendous detail by stating - 
>> remove and replace the fuel thermostat ;-).Very helpful.
> 
> Don't you just love the W124 manuals? The change in helpfulness from the
> W123 manuals to the W124 manuals is just astounding! I wonder if the ones
> for even newer vehicles are even more useless ...
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Breaking into a Linux box to reset the password

[John Reames]

On many dists, "single" will still require a root password.

Try using "init=/bin/sh"

You will have to "fsck -av /" and "mount -wno remount /" before you can do 
anything

Then you can "passwd root"

"sync" 3x at 30s intervals, then "reboot"

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> On Jun 28, 2014, at 21:46, Allan Streib  wrote:
> 
> Craig  writes:
> 
>> This is a Red-Hat-based system.
>> 
>> Would I specify single user by editing boot parameters at GRUB's
>> selection menu?
> 
> Yes. You would add the word "single" (without quotes) to the kernel boot
> parameters. I can't recall exactly how RedHat's boot menu works but
> there should be an option to edit the boot parameters. Should be easy to
> google.
> 
> That should put you into a root shell where you can use the "passwd"
> command to reset the root (or any other user) password. Don't try to do
> much else, as some of the normal start-up is bypassed in single user
> mode. Just change the password, then reboot (using "reboot" or "shutdown
> -r now"
> 
> Allan
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Yellow jacket nest in the roof soffit

[John Reames]

You, sir, owe me a new keyboard :)

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> On Jun 29, 2014, at 10:19, Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
> I can see where the country club set could get ugly, especially if you wore 
> dark soles on the yacht, or failed to wear tennis whites on the courts.  
> Those valets can get uppity, too.
> 
> Dan never had to use WASP spray to-date
> 
> 
>> On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:27 AM, G Mann  wrote:
>> 
>> Side note: I carry a can of wasp spray, rather than mace, when in unsavory
>> neighborhoods. The 20 ft reach and solid stream spray is an effective
>> deterrent to people about to make bad decisions.
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

Nope. The plugs almost always break just above the threads, as the plug is much 
thinner above the nut than it is below.
 
Thinking about this now, it seems that engineering a failure point into the 
plugs would make a LOT of sense; if the plugs were designed to shear just below 
the threads, that would be PERFECT--no damaging threads; you'd just snap off 
the electrode and drill it to accept a 5/16 tap and pull the rest.


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> On Jun 26, 2014, at 20:30, Meade Dillon  wrote:
> 
> So your broken plugs came out with the threaded portion intact?
> 
> I wonder if you could have applied PB Blaster to the tip inside the
> pre-chamber, via the injector hole, and if that would have helped.
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
> 
>> On Jun 26, 2014 6:52 PM, "John Reames"  wrote:
>> 
>> It's off to go to the machine shop that the local dealers send them to.
>> 
>> It is my understanding that if they break, it is just above the threads
> due to the 2+" long annular space between the seating surface and the
> threads filling with hard-pack carbon.
>> 
>> Additionally, the reamers do not remove carbon in that area, just where
> the glow tip goes in the prechamber.
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

It's off to go to the machine shop that the local dealers send them to.

It is my understanding that if they break, it is just above the threads due to 
the 2+" long annular space between the seating surface and the threads filling 
with hard-pack carbon.

Additionally, the reamers do not remove carbon in that area, just where the 
glow tip goes in the prechamber.

You need a long 11mm diameter wire brush to get the carbon out of where the 
body of the plug goes...

PB blaster does a good job of loosening the carbon so the brush can work.

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> On Jun 26, 2014, at 17:25, Meade Dillon  wrote:
> 
> Are you taking the head to a machine shop?
> 
> Did the plugs break leaving threads in the head, or did the threaded parts
> of the plugs come out?
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
>> On Jun 26, 2014 3:03 PM, "John Reames"  wrote:
>> 
>> I have not changed them before in this car; I put over 80k on it highway
>> driving, and since then it has been a mix of city and highway.
>> 
>> Disabling EGR in a turbo is a little more complicated, and I haven't
>> messed with it.
>> 
>> I believe that anti-sieze on the bodies of the plugs is likely the second
>> best way to prevent break-offs.
>> 
>> The best way would to have a head and glow plugs where the threads were
>> closer to the seating surface...
>> 
>> Mercedes sells an expensive tool set to deal with the plugs, but it's a
>> combination of pichler 6041760+60419050+6049031...
>> 
>> Good luck in getting prices!
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>>> On Jun 26, 2014, at 12:32, Meade Dillon  wrote:
>>> 
>>> John,
>>> 
>>> Is this car mostly driven in the city?
>>> 
>>> Is the EGR still working?
>>> 
>>> I'm wondering if measures can be taken to reduce carbon buddy build-up,
>>> reducing the risk of glow plugs breaking off.
>>> 
>>> Max Dillon,
>>> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

I have not changed them before in this car; I put over 80k on it highway 
driving, and since then it has been a mix of city and highway.

Disabling EGR in a turbo is a little more complicated, and I haven't messed 
with it.

I believe that anti-sieze on the bodies of the plugs is likely the second best 
way to prevent break-offs.

The best way would to have a head and glow plugs where the threads were closer 
to the seating surface...

Mercedes sells an expensive tool set to deal with the plugs, but it's a 
combination of pichler 6041760+60419050+6049031...

Good luck in getting prices!

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> On Jun 26, 2014, at 12:32, Meade Dillon  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> Is this car mostly driven in the city?
> 
> Is the EGR still working?
> 
> I'm wondering if measures can be taken to reduce carbon buddy build-up,
> reducing the risk of glow plugs breaking off.
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

FYI, regarding torquing and loosening sequences, it looks like they are the 
same as the om603, both for the head and for the camshaft bearing caps.

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> On Jun 23, 2014, at 22:59, John Reames  wrote:
> 
> Yeah. And used a torque wrench when attempting to pull them. I never exceeded 
> 30 ft-lbs.
> 
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> Mobile: +14437915905
> 
>> On Jun 23, 2014, at 13:41, Larry Turner  wrote:
>> 
>> did you let some penetrating fluid soak on them for a few days? That and 
>> some heat might stop them breaking....
>> 
>> LarryT
>> 
>>> On 6/23/2014 6:04 AM, John Reames wrote:
>>> 3/6 glow plugs snapped.
>>> 
>>> I had given it a 50mi run to heat it up before trying to pull them; the 
>>> intake manifold was so hot that I needed gloves to handle it.
>>> 
>>> I still used a torque wrench to attempt to pull them; they snapped at less 
>>> than 30ft-lbs.
>>> 
>>> --
>>> John W Reames
>>> jream...@verizon.net
>>> Home: +14106646986
>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 22, 2014, at 20:06, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Maybe I missed something, why did you need to pull the head?
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Jun 22, 2014, at 6:18 PM, John Reames  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Got the thing off today; took about 4 hours.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Those bolts are a pain in the shoulders.  (I ended up throwing a cheater 
>>>>> bar on my breaker bar for a total of 3.5 ft of handle, and was still 
>>>>> leaning on it quite hard!)
>>>>> 
>>>>> In other news, I took the little dude to a Cub Scout fishing trip (catch 
>>>>> and release at a private stocked pond). Previously we had gone 
>>>>> bait-washing, and he said even that was fun, but this time he was hooked. 
>>>>>  He was even landing some 18+" largemouths.  (I just had him using a #6 
>>>>> hook set about 10" below a bobber... KISS.)
>>>>> 
>>>>> (Now I just need to get him doing his own baiting... Then maybe onto the 
>>>>> joys of using a Mitchell 300 or 330 reel...)
>>>>> --
>>>>> John W Reames
>>>>> jream...@verizon.net
>>>>> Home: +14106646986
>>>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>>>> ___
>>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

Yeah. And used a torque wrench when attempting to pull them. I never exceeded 
30 ft-lbs.

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> On Jun 23, 2014, at 13:41, Larry Turner  wrote:
> 
> did you let some penetrating fluid soak on them for a few days? That and some 
> heat might stop them breaking
> 
> LarryT
> 
>> On 6/23/2014 6:04 AM, John Reames wrote:
>> 3/6 glow plugs snapped.
>> 
>> I had given it a 50mi run to heat it up before trying to pull them; the 
>> intake manifold was so hot that I needed gloves to handle it.
>> 
>> I still used a torque wrench to attempt to pull them; they snapped at less 
>> than 30ft-lbs.
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>>> On Jun 22, 2014, at 20:06, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Maybe I missed something, why did you need to pull the head?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 22, 2014, at 6:18 PM, John Reames  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Got the thing off today; took about 4 hours.
>>>> 
>>>> Those bolts are a pain in the shoulders.  (I ended up throwing a cheater 
>>>> bar on my breaker bar for a total of 3.5 ft of handle, and was still 
>>>> leaning on it quite hard!)
>>>> 
>>>> In other news, I took the little dude to a Cub Scout fishing trip (catch 
>>>> and release at a private stocked pond). Previously we had gone 
>>>> bait-washing, and he said even that was fun, but this time he was hooked.  
>>>> He was even landing some 18+" largemouths.  (I just had him using a #6 
>>>> hook set about 10" below a bobber... KISS.)
>>>> 
>>>> (Now I just need to get him doing his own baiting... Then maybe onto the 
>>>> joys of using a Mitchell 300 or 330 reel...)
>>>> --
>>>> John W Reames
>>>> jream...@verizon.net
>>>> Home: +14106646986
>>>> Mobile: +14437915905
>>>> ___
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>>>> 
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>>>> 
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>>>> 
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>>>> individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner 
>>>> has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

Put 'em back together with a liberal coat of anti-sieze applied all the way 
down the main body, from the threaded part to the top edge of the bevel is my 
guess.

And pulling them more often than every 100k miles... (Those could have had as 
much as 200k on them!)

The annoying thing is that the reamer only cuts out the very bottom hole, where 
it goes into the prechamber, and doesn't do anything along the plug body where 
it fills with carbon and seizes.  For that you need to find a (12mm diameter?) 
wire brush and use the brush and PB blaster to get the carbon out. (PB seems to 
almost dissolve soot/carbon!)

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> On Jun 23, 2014, at 9:05, Meade Dillon  wrote:
> 
> That stinks.
> 
> Amy ideas to prevent them from breaking?
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

3/6 glow plugs snapped.

I had given it a 50mi run to heat it up before trying to pull them; the intake 
manifold was so hot that I needed gloves to handle it.  

I still used a torque wrench to attempt to pull them; they snapped at less than 
30ft-lbs.

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> On Jun 22, 2014, at 20:06, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:
> 
> Maybe I missed something, why did you need to pull the head?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 22, 2014, at 6:18 PM, John Reames  wrote:
>> 
>> Got the thing off today; took about 4 hours. 
>> 
>> Those bolts are a pain in the shoulders.  (I ended up throwing a cheater bar 
>> on my breaker bar for a total of 3.5 ft of handle, and was still leaning on 
>> it quite hard!)
>> 
>> In other news, I took the little dude to a Cub Scout fishing trip (catch and 
>> release at a private stocked pond). Previously we had gone bait-washing, and 
>> he said even that was fun, but this time he was hooked.  He was even landing 
>> some 18+" largemouths.  (I just had him using a #6 hook set about 10" below 
>> a bobber... KISS.)
>> 
>> (Now I just need to get him doing his own baiting... Then maybe onto the 
>> joys of using a Mitchell 300 or 330 reel...)
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
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>> no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
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[MBZ] Om606 head

[John Reames]

Got the thing off today; took about 4 hours. 

Those bolts are a pain in the shoulders.  (I ended up throwing a cheater bar on 
my breaker bar for a total of 3.5 ft of handle, and was still leaning on it 
quite hard!)

In other news, I took the little dude to a Cub Scout fishing trip (catch and 
release at a private stocked pond). Previously we had gone bait-washing, and he 
said even that was fun, but this time he was hooked.  He was even landing some 
18+" largemouths.  (I just had him using a #6 hook set about 10" below a 
bobber... KISS.)

(Now I just need to get him doing his own baiting... Then maybe onto the joys 
of using a Mitchell 300 or 330 reel...)
--
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jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
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Re: [MBZ] washing under the hood of a 76 115 300D?

[John Reames]

The foamy engine brite is good, but the gunk "steam clean" is much better.

(Does anyone else remember buying engine brite in a non-aerosol can and having 
to mix it with mineral spirits or kerosene?)

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> On Jun 18, 2014, at 16:50, G Mann  wrote:
> 
> Air cleaner, certainly.. I open a heavy trash bag and "put the air cleaner
> in the bag" before washing the engine.
> 
> Also, a product I've come to really like is Gunk Foamy Engine Brite.  I
> find it is way better than anything else at emulsifying the oil residue,
> road dirt, and caked on "stuff" that collects.  I spray down the engine
> with water first to knock off anything lose, then spray with the Foamy
> Engine Brite and let it set for a bit. Then hit it with the pressure
> washer. You can respray areas that first pass didn't get then pressure wash
> again.
> 
> On painted surfaces, to date I've seen no degrade of the paint finish,
> however, to be safe, I use the "wait time" conservatively before flushing
> it off.
> 
> Hope you get as good a result as I have.  BTW... it works on oil drips in
> your driveway also.. recommend using a brush to massage the area after
> spraying it down, then pressure wash or hose it off.
> 
> Grant...
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 1:13 PM, Randy Bennell  wrote:
>> 
>> Anything I need to be careful with or concerned about?
>> Or can I just spray the cleaner stuff about and then use the pressure
>> washer to rinse it good?
>> 
>> A bit dirty under there and I need to do some work so it would be cleaner
>> for me if I clean the engine compartment first.
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Overheated

[John Reames]

How's the fan clutch looking?

They seem to have a shorter lifetime than they ought to.

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> On Jun 17, 2014, at 8:36, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:
> 
> My 95 e300 when in stop and go or sitting will get up between that mark just 
> under red and the next mark under that. As soon as you get going the temp 
> comes back down. I wonder if I need to replace the radiator?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 16, 2014, at 11:45 PM, "Scott Ritchey"  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Larry:  Copy all.  Must just have been an old age/heat failure.  My 126
>> SD has similar miles but I replaced that radiator (maybe 15 years ago) with
>> a Nissens (sp?) when it seemed to be running hot.  My old 123 TD had 100K
>> more miles but PO almost certainly replaced that radiator after a road
>> debris encounter.  Looks like these plastic and alum radiators are
>> consumables.  Thanks for the additional longevity data point.  Cheers
>> Scott
>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry
>>> Turner
>>> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 8:46 PM
>>> 
>>> Hey Scott,
>>>As long as I have owned this car, since Feb 2006,  I have used the
>>> proper antifreeze bought from the MB dealer.  No clue about before that,
>>> but it was leased by a oil company executive in Mass.He said it was
>>> always serviced by their local dealer. That's all I know about the car's
>>> history --  presently has 234,500 miles on it.  I always used full
>>> synthetic oil and changed it between 6000 and 8000 miles.   The engine
>>> is in great shape AFAIF - never uses/urns/drips any oil - at least it
>>> never did prior to the overheating event.  when I test drove it last
>>> week - before the radiator neck completely failed it ran perfectly.
>>> The T'Stat opened and closed - also, the engine heated and cooled as the
>>> fans came on and turned off.
>>> 
>>> Larry T
>>> 
 On 6/15/2014 5:33 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
 Larry: Do you know if non MB-spec antifreeze was ever run in that
>>> radiator?
 Rumor has it that certain non-spec antifreeze types are MBZ radiator
 plastic.
 
 Scott
 
> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Larry
> Turner
> Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2014 1:57 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Overheated
> 
> Thanks for those comments Marshall.   FYI - and I am not sure why this
> happened, but I pried the broken nozzle piece from the hose and when it
> hit the garage floor it broke into several pieces.It was a surprise
> as I would have thought it would have bounced.  it dropped from a
>>> height
> of approx 3' BTW --  When I examined it it seemed to be pretty fragile.
> I assume it had broken down due to heat cycling.
> 
> Larryt
 
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To se

Re: [MBZ] Om606 head bolt torque sequence

[John Reames]

I suspect it will likely be the same as the 603 heads, seeing as they are 
somewhat related.

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> On Jun 18, 2014, at 19:45, OK Don  wrote:
> 
> No, but from what I remember from the 617 and 603 heads, you start in the
> center, and work outwards in a spiral. YMMV - might be better than nothing
> if you can't find the proper sequence.
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 9:48 AM, John Reames  wrote:
>> 
>> Would anyone happen to have a diagram floating around?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> -j.
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 
> NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!
> 
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> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
> 
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[MBZ] Om606 head bolt torque sequence

[John Reames]

Would anyone happen to have a diagram floating around?

Thanks
-j.

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[MBZ] 300d-to power steering hose

[John Reames]

How common is it for these to develop a pinhole leak and spray a fine stream?

I suddenly started feeling a lot more of the road and lo and behold, my hood 
pad had a spot saturated with ps fluid.

I initially attempted to patch it with a small piece of flashing held on with a 
beefy worm-gear clamp, but the hose then showed a blister that split the 
flashing at the edge of the clamp.

I ended up cutting a 2" long piece of 3/4" plastic conduit, then cutting about 
1/4 of it away so I could snap it on over the flashing and then clamp it all.  
(I figure the conduit is acting as a hernia belt...)

It now just has a very occasional drop form instead of a stream...

I'm ordering a hose, but I figure that will keep it drivable until it arrives.

Otherwise it looks like the hose is easy to change (compared to a w210...)

I'm also getting a new filter and doing a fluid flush as well...

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Re: [MBZ] W123 front torsion bar common problem

[John Reames]

Here's one:
eBay:111338953500

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> On Jun 16, 2014, at 16:44, John Reames  wrote:
> 
> Baum tools makes a weld-on replacement end. They sell on eBay as "El Paso 
> tool"
> 
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> 
>> On Jun 16, 2014, at 13:44, "G. M. Brown"  wrote:
>> 
>> Something for those on the list with W123s: Driving my 1985 300TD on my way 
>> to the Canadian GP possibly one last time before I croak (Most folks have a 
>> "bucket list" but, ever since a mini-stroke 2Y ago, I now have a "before I 
>> croak list"), the front torsion bar broke on the right side near Rochester, 
>> NY.  Being on the right side, I wonder is the deterioration may have been 
>> due to winter salt exposure over the years?  It broke right where the 
>> threads end and the same place where it broke on my brother's 1985 300D.  
>> Since the M-B dealership in Rochester doesn't do "unconventional" repairs, 
>> they wanted $4K to replace the front torsion bar via displacing the engine, 
>> whereas the head mechanic there indicated that there was a repair kit 
>> available at either Baum Tools or Pelican Parts.  I ended up having the 
>> folks at Baum overnite ship the part to a fellow in a collision shop who 
>> welded it in place and I was on my way in two days.  For those who may be 
>> interested, there are two differen
 t repair kits as the front torsion bar in the 300TD is a larger diameter than 
the 300D.  Baum Tools only had one part number listed, so I took a chance and, 
as it turned out, it was meant to fit the 300D front torsion bar and the 
welding technician had to grind things down slightly for things to fit 
correctly for welding.  The M-B part numbers for the front torsion bar is as 
follows:
>> 300D123 323 66 65  (for sedans and coupe)
>> 300TD  123 323 69 65 (for sedans long, T-sedans)
>> 
>> I hope this info. ight be useful for those with W123s.
>> 
>> G. M. Brown
>> Brevard, NC 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 front torsion bar common problem

[John Reames]

Baum tools makes a weld-on replacement end. They sell on eBay as "El Paso tool"

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> On Jun 16, 2014, at 13:44, "G. M. Brown"  wrote:
> 
> Something for those on the list with W123s: Driving my 1985 300TD on my way 
> to the Canadian GP possibly one last time before I croak (Most folks have a 
> "bucket list" but, ever since a mini-stroke 2Y ago, I now have a "before I 
> croak list"), the front torsion bar broke on the right side near Rochester, 
> NY.  Being on the right side, I wonder is the deterioration may have been due 
> to winter salt exposure over the years?  It broke right where the threads end 
> and the same place where it broke on my brother's 1985 300D.  Since the M-B 
> dealership in Rochester doesn't do "unconventional" repairs, they wanted $4K 
> to replace the front torsion bar via displacing the engine, whereas the head 
> mechanic there indicated that there was a repair kit available at either Baum 
> Tools or Pelican Parts.  I ended up having the folks at Baum overnite ship 
> the part to a fellow in a collision shop who welded it in place and I was on 
> my way in two days.  For those who may be interested, there are two different
  repair kits as the front torsion bar in the 300TD is a larger diameter than 
the 300D.  Baum Tools only had one part number listed, so I took a chance and, 
as it turned out, it was meant to fit the 300D front torsion bar and the 
welding technician had to grind things down slightly for things to fit 
correctly for welding.  The M-B part numbers for the front torsion bar is as 
follows:
> 300D123 323 66 65  (for sedans and coupe)
> 300TD  123 323 69 65 (for sedans long, T-sedans)
> 
> I hope this info. ight be useful for those with W123s.
> 
> G. M. Brown
> Brevard, NC 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] The accident that could have changed history

[John Reames]

Isn't one of the design "features" of the safeties called a 
strong-link/weak-link system?

My (limited) understanding is that the "strong link" must be actuated to enable 
operation of the device, but that the actuation mechanism/electronics are 
designed so that they will break and prevent operation at lower levels of 
stress (the "weak link" portion) than are required to make the "strong link" 
actuate improperly...

That motor-driven drum switch didn't operate. To me, that sounds like the 
system worked as designed. (And therefore, there was no danger...)

The underlying logic of multiple safeties is different than a pistol that has a 
magazine disconnect or a shotgun with a trigger disconnector.  

 Operation can only occur if /all/ of the proper steps are taken /in the proper 
sequence/.

(Try slam-firing a pump shotgun with a trigger disconnector... It will only 
fire if the trigger is pulled after you've pumped it... Now imagine having a 
shotgun that is designed so that the trigger mechanism is BROKEN when someone 
tries to slam-fire it... and that the broken parts were so buried in the 
mechanism that the thing had to be shipped back to the manufacturer for a major 
overhaul to replace them.)


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> On Jun 12, 2014, at 23:18, "WILTON"  wrote:
> 
> "- and if that switch had also become inoperative, "   If it had 
> FAILED at the right (wrong) time in such a manner to produce the same ARMED 
> circuitry as if the RN had deliberately ARMED it.  Again, NO switch failed or 
> was inoperative.
> 
> Wilt
> 
> - Original Message - From: 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 10:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] The accident that could have changed history
> 
> 
>> Wilton wrote:
>> "...Soon after the accident, SECDEF McNamara commented that all of the 
>> switches in the arming, fusing and firing systems but one had failed, and 
>> AND ONLY THAT ONE SWITCH HAD PREVENTED A NUCLEAR DETONATION.  (At least 
>> twelve switches, timers and devices, actually, easily counted in 
>> declassified Official Observer’s Report, Air Force Accident, February 16, 
>> 1961.  Two of the twelve were not “called” to act because of their position 
>> in the sequence.)
>> (Wilton wrote:)  IT'S TRUE THAT ONLY ONE SWITCH IN ONE OF THE BOMBS HAD 
>> PREVENTED A NUCLEAR DETONATION, but let’s discuss for a minute whether or 
>> not any switches or devices failed.." (snip)
>> 
>> Gerry wrote
>> So in spite of all the false details from writers and journalists that have 
>> come out since the accident, it's true that only one switch prevented a 
>> nuclear explosion, and if that switch had also become inoperative, there 
>> would have been a nuclear explosion?
>> 
>> Obviously the fault did not lie with the Air Force but with Boeing which 
>> made changes in the original design of the plane that caused the wing to 
>> fail, and the designers of the bombs which did not design a fail-proof 
>> safety system.  Good essay, Wilton.
>> Gerry
>> ..
>>> Tim Crone wrote:
>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
 From: WILTON 
 Date: Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 4:44 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Bombing Goldsboro
 To: Mercedes Discussion List 
 
 
 'Nother case of an author filling in gaps in his "knowledge" with his
 imagination.  No release lever was "triggered," and there was no such
 lever. Bombs were wrenched out by extremely unusual centrifugal forces.
 'Even had to make up prevailing winds and crossing wires.
 
 Mattocks flung himself in desperation toward co-pilot's open hatch on the
 right; again, extremely unusual centrifugal/rotational forces redirected
 him accidently through pilot's hatch on the left.  Aircraft likely inverted
 when mattocks exited.
 
 Pilot landed in swamp; one bomb landed in edge of field with parachute in
 tree; second bomb landed in farmer's field and made deep impact crater.
 
 "Optimum blast altitude" was not a factor; both were "ground contact."
 
 Wilt
 
 On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 2:49 PM, arche...@embarqmail.com <
 arche...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
 
> Nuclear bomb nearly detonated after falling on North Carolina -
> declassified report
> 
> In a scenario that could've been extremely devastating, the United States
> narrowly averted a nuclear disaster in 1961 when an atomic bomb nearly
> detonated after falling out of a B-52 bomber that broke up in the sky.
> 
> According to the Washington Post, the incident took place on January 21,
> 1961 - less than 20 years after nuclear bombs were dropped on Hiroshima 
> and
> Nagasaki - and is explained further in a recently declassified report
> published by the National Security Archives.
> 
> When the US Air Force aircraft went into a tailspin and b

Re: [MBZ] WANTED: Xenon Headlights

[John Reames]

All of the ones for w210's have plastic lenses. (In the case of the xenon ones, 
plastic inner and outer...but it's the outer one that yellows.)

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> On Apr 26, 2014, at 6:16, Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
> These have glass lenses, not that it matters
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 26, 2014, at 6:05 AM, John Reames wrote:
>> 
>> MBUSA wants even MORE stupid money for 'em.
>> 
>> Each unit for a W210 is north of $1100!
>> 
>> (And the lenses yellow badly, being plastic and all... And are 
>> non-replaceable!)
>> 
>> --
>> John W Reames
>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>>> On Apr 25, 2014, at 17:35, Dan Penoff  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Speaking of Dan's "hot rod"
>>> 
>>> I am trying to find a set of OE xenon headlights. They rarely show up on 
>>> places like eBay, and when they do people want stupid prices for them.
>>> 
>>> I figured that since of number of you are trolling around the knackers on a 
>>> regular basis, if you saw a set of them you could let me know or assist me 
>>> in obtaining them.
>>> 
>>> I need to check the exact years, but I know they started in 1997 or 1998 
>>> and through the end of production for the R129 (SL500/500SL) chassis. I'll 
>>> get back to the list on this.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
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>>> has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
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>> no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] WANTED: Xenon Headlights

[John Reames]

MBUSA wants even MORE stupid money for 'em.

Each unit for a W210 is north of $1100!

(And the lenses yellow badly, being plastic and all... And are non-replaceable!)

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> On Apr 25, 2014, at 17:35, Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
> Speaking of Dan's "hot rod"
> 
> I am trying to find a set of OE xenon headlights. They rarely show up on 
> places like eBay, and when they do people want stupid prices for them.
> 
> I figured that since of number of you are trolling around the knackers on a 
> regular basis, if you saw a set of them you could let me know or assist me in 
> obtaining them.
> 
> I need to check the exact years, but I know they started in 1997 or 1998 and 
> through the end of production for the R129 (SL500/500SL) chassis. I'll get 
> back to the list on this.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: [MBZ] Cat Food

[John Reames]

Like the BARF diet? ;) (bones and raw food... Ground up perhaps?)

(The marrow in the bones is probably good for them...)

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On Apr 18, 2014, at 22:59, Hendrik and Fay  wrote:

> What about unprocessed junk?
> 
> Hendrik
> who is catless
> 
> On 18/04/14 06:04, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
>> As opposed to processed junk.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 17, 2014, at 2:57 AM, Hendrik and Fay  wrote:
>>> 
>>> As opposed to fake fish?
>>> 
>>> Hendrik
>>> whose cat only ate whiskas cat food, both dry and tinned
>>> 
 On 17/04/14 09:08, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 How about some real fish.
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Roadside fun

[John Reames]

I've always had better luck with Goodyear than with gates. (Although on the 
MB's I'll go after the Conti belts first... And avoid the Conti tires)

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On Apr 18, 2014, at 5:17, Meade Dillon  wrote:

> 330 miles is too far, and you probably don't have the belt or any other
> parts at your office, I'll bet.
> 
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
> 
> On Apr 18, 2014 1:16 AM, "Gary Hurst"  wrote:
>> 
>> when going north, i get my first gas where US1 meets that loop road on teh
>> west side of jax.  330 miles
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Re: [MBZ] ULSD

[John Reames]

I'd say the (Bosch type M) IP o-rings are also a wear item.  You can get them 
from Bosch for less than they cost from MBUSA. Unfortunately, they are the same 
rubber as the originals. Ditto for the fuel line o-rings on the 606's

On ULSD, they seem to last only 40-50kmi.  I found some nitrile ones somewhere, 
will try them next change...

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On Apr 16, 2014, at 14:56, roger...@comcast.net wrote:

> Return lines are a wear item, they don't last forever. I had to replace them 
> on my cars before ULSD came out and I haven't seen any rise in the incidence 
> of them needing to be replaced since. 
> I think the change to ULSD was much ado about nothing, I didn't notice any 
> change in how my car ran or anything else after the change. Pretty much the 
> same with ethanol, that one is something I'd rather be without but I don't 
> see it as big a problem as some people do. When we first switched I had a 
> little trouble on the snowmobiles but once I quit using Sta-bil and switched 
> to Seafoam for my gas additive the problems I'd been having went away 
> entirely. The only time I have trouble now is if I forget to add Seafoam so I 
> add it to every gallon of gas I buy at the time of purchase. 
> Curt 
> Well, I've seen the change on my old 617s, not sure what cars you are looking 
> at. I've had my 617s for around 18 years. I replaced the return lines after 
> ULSD became in general use and I haven't replaced them since. Thus, I 
> attribute it to ULSD and not them being a wear item, which they might be, but 
> again, not in my case. As to the ethanol, my 5.9 Dodge Ram gets about 2 mpg 
> better mileage on gas without ethanol (when I can still find it out in the 
> country) and it also runs smoother. Smaller or different engines might react 
> differently, I can only vouch for how it affects my Dodge. I guess we can all 
> have differing experiences...that's what makes the world interesting. 
> Best Wishes, 
> Roger 
> Roger Hale 
> Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
> Monroe, Ga. 
> 770-267-0850 
> www.dinnerwareclassics.com (new) 
> www.southernnightsantiques.com (antique) 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Cat Food

[John Reames]

Our cats had a (holistic) vet that swore by the BARF (bones and raw food) 
diet... Make your own food as it were.

We've given ours some of the smaller bits that result from making chicken or 
turkey stock...

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On Apr 16, 2014, at 13:52, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:

> So what's a nutritious and tasty natural cat food that won't cost me an arm
> and a leg?  It has to pass my critical palate test or I won't share it with
> my cat.
> 
> 
> On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:52 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
> 
>> IIRC it was Hurst that got me on to looking at ratings for the various
>> foods. There are a few different sites that rate foods but they're pretty
>> consistent.
>> 
>> We used the Dick Van Patton stuff for awhile, can't remember why we
>> stopped. PetCo has a lady there on weekends giving away samples which are
>> great for training treats.
>> Buster ate an ant trap at camp last fall and for some reason it put him
>> off Solid Gold so we started with the Halo which he really likes.
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2014 17:59:55 -0400
>> From: Gary Hurst 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cat Food
>> Message-ID:
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>> 
>> i used to use the dick van patton stuff for both dogs and cats.  i was also
>> big on innova before they sold out.  solid gold products for teh dogs.  a
>> few2 others as well.  the dogs also really liked the bloody raw meat stuff
>> but that just go them so crazy at feeding it was scary to watch
>> 
>> science diet has a terrible reputation among the high end feed buffs for
>> being all about the undigestable fillers, mostly in terms of corn
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[MBZ] 300d (w123.133) heater question

[John Reames]

I've noticed that when the engine rpm goes above somewhere between 2000-2500 
rpm, the air coming out of the vents is noticeably cooler (its still warm, but 
nowhere near as warm as when the rpm is lower... At high rpm it's like the air 
coming out of the duct of a heat pump system, at lower rpm its closer to a hair 
dryer)

This seems to be more rpm than speed (mph) related (I initially thought it was 
speed related)

The engine temp gauge is the same throughout, and the fan clutch was replaced 
(with a Rusty-supplied one) approximately 6 months prior to the 
he-who-should-not-be-named debacle/CF (<5000 miles from then to now, as this is 
the "spare" car)

The coolant level looks to be OK, both cold and hot.

Any thoughts?

I'm leaning towards a monovalve insert partially closing due to increased flow 
from the water pump/larger pressure drop across the insert/heater core at 
higher rpm.
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Re: [MBZ] Total battery drain

[John Reames]

Is the dome light staying on? (Aren't the timers known to go bad?)

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On Mar 28, 2014, at 23:06, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:

> I may have a drain - will check into it.
> 
> 
> On Fri, Mar 28, 2014 at 9:53 PM, Craig  wrote:
> 
>> On Fri, 28 Mar 2014 16:41:12 -0700 Andrew Strasfogel
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Hour of idling???
>> 
>> Of course not. Hook up a battery charger and let it charge overnight.
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 96 E300 Diesel

[John Reames]

But the pressure outward doesn't do much to help with binding of rotation...

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On Mar 23, 2014, at 18:48, Max Dillon  wrote:

> A running engine would also provide compression gas forces pushing the plug 
> out to encourage them along...
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston, SC
> 
> 
>  Original Message 
> From: Jim Cathey 
> Sent: March 23, 2014 2:28:06 AM EDT
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 96 E300 Diesel
> 
> So, would there be any advantage to doing it while the
> engine was _running_?  
> 
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[MBZ] Om606 injector well cleaning

[John Reames]

With the 4 valve per cylinder DOHC design of the om606, the injectors sit down 
between the cam shafts in a deep well; clearance around the injector is pretty 
tight (maybe 1/8" at the narrowest).

When the bypass hoses start weeping, the wells will fill up with diesel fuel. 

I found a novel way of getting it out.  I started with the mity-vac with the 
"brake bleeder" catch jar on it, but couldn't get the hose all the way down  to 
the bottom... 

I found a plain old soda straw that fit in the end of the hose and shoved it 
down there; it was able to deform to get past, without completely pinching 
off...

Worked like a charm!

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Re: [MBZ] Cats driving

[John Reames]

Wow. That's a high performance kitty!  Is there a super sport badge on its 
shoulder ;) ??

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On Mar 23, 2014, at 18:07, G Mann  wrote:

> http://i62.tinypic.com/nw0njo.jpg
> 
> Cats?  Bet your cat can't do this?  ;))
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 12:43 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
>> I know.  I'm  just joshin' you.
>> 
>> I have a cat who gets Blue Buffalo dry food, but does get the occasional
>> treat.  She likes flapjacks and waffles (no syrup.)  I made waffles this
>> morning, so she got her little square (torn into kitty-sized edible pieces,
>> of course.)
>> 
>> Did you know that cats don't have the amino acids that allow the gene to
>> form the protein that allows the taste of sweet things?
>> 
>> Of course, they can taste ATP, which we can't.  It's a signal for meat.
>> 
>> Meow Dan
>> 
>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 2:31 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
>> 
>>> Dan, as nearly everyone in dieseldom knows, I had two black cats (now
>> one)
>>> to whose judgment as to the tastiness of cat food I defer. Polydamas eats
>>> their wet food 2x daily and relishes every morsel.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fats driving

[John Reames]

Btw their "fruity o's" taste like old-school fruit loops (from 30 or so years 
ago), and their "pound plus" chocolate bars are very good quality (the smaller 
versions of them are nowhere near as good...)

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On Mar 23, 2014, at 13:25, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:

> They have the TASTIEST wet cat food sans by-products for the price, plus
> cheap chips and lots of neat frozen fish and entrees.  Their proprietary
> products are very good and cost way less than the national brands.  And,
> you can get nearly everything there, such as laundry soap, toothpaste,
> great vitamins and minerals, and motor oil.
> 
> Well, not motor oil, but they do have the least expensive olive oil
> selection from many continents.
> 
> Plus good produce, cheeses, etc.  What's not to like? Here in the DC area
> people are invariably polite everywhere so you should just move up and
> support our local economy.
> 
> Andrew
> Descending from his soap box (purchased at TJs)
> 
> 
> On Sun, Mar 23, 2014 at 12:10 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
>> I don't go to Walmart because it destroyed the economy of the small town I
>> lived in inWisconsin when they moved into town. Probably 15 years ago, but
>> I'm still bitter about it.
>> 
>> As for Trader Joe's, I just don't understand the attraction. The edgy
>> people? (The Apple Store does that - nope.)  The funky products? Not
>> really. Prices? Hardly.
>> 
>> If I'm missing something I would love for someone to point it out. I just
>> don't get it.
>> 
>> Befuddled Dan
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Mar 23, 2014, at 11:03 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've never been to a Trader Joe's that wasn't packed full of rude
>> people. They seem to have good stuff but I can't stand the other shoppers.
>> Same reason I don't go to Wal-Mart but for a whole different category of
>> people.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Curt
>>> 
>>> Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2014 20:14:45 -0400
>>> From: Dan Penoff 
>>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fats driving
>>> Message-ID: 
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>> 
>>> Just opened the first Trader Joe's in Tampa this weekend.  They had
>> police officers present for crowd control.
>>> 
>>> Oy.
>>> 
>>> Dan no two buck Chuck for me, thank you
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Re: [MBZ] Fats driving

[John Reames]

What did they do with the... Umm... Residue? (It's kinda noxious stuff, and 
needs special handling; you certainly don't want anyone getting ahold of any of 
it...)

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On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:44, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

>> OkraŠdidn't they grind that stuff up in WWI and use it to lube airplane 
>> engines?
> 
> 
> Naaa that was castor beans
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 96 E300 Diesel

[John Reames]

I'm working on it.

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On Mar 22, 2014, at 20:34, Max Dillon  wrote:

> Wow, sorry to hear that.  How did you get out the broken plugs?
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston, SC
> 
> 
>  Original Message ----
> From: John Reames 
> Sent: March 22, 2014 7:32:37 PM EDT
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 96 E300 Diesel
> 
> Uh-huh.
> 
> I have three that say otherwise.
> 
> As in I had all the tools laid out ahead, ran it for 30 miles and had the 
> manifold off the engine in approximately 10 minutes after shutoff.
> 
> I used a torque wrench and was worrying them with lots of penetrant.
> 
> Three of them broke off at less than 40Nm. One came out like butter (so easy 
> I thought it snapped!), one was okay-ish, and number 6 outright fought me, 
> but I got it out without an issue.
> 
> It had been on a 100mi each way trip in the week beforehand and given several 
> Italian tuneups; it was no longer emitting clouds when given one.
> 
> Hot may help, but it is NOT the answer.
> --
> John W Reames
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> Mobile: +14437915905
> 
> On Mar 22, 2014, at 14:36, Max Dillon  wrote:
> 
>> The secret to changing glow plugs on the OM606 is to only attempt removal 
>> when the engine is HOT!  They come right out, like butter
>> -- 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston, SC
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 96 E300 Diesel

[John Reames]

Uh-huh.

I have three that say otherwise.

As in I had all the tools laid out ahead, ran it for 30 miles and had the 
manifold off the engine in approximately 10 minutes after shutoff.

I used a torque wrench and was worrying them with lots of penetrant.

Three of them broke off at less than 40Nm. One came out like butter (so easy I 
thought it snapped!), one was okay-ish, and number 6 outright fought me, but I 
got it out without an issue.

It had been on a 100mi each way trip in the week beforehand and given several 
Italian tuneups; it was no longer emitting clouds when given one.

Hot may help, but it is NOT the answer.
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On Mar 22, 2014, at 14:36, Max Dillon  wrote:

> The secret to changing glow plugs on the OM606 is to only attempt removal 
> when the engine is HOT!  They come right out, like butter
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston, SC
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 96 E300 Diesel

[John Reames]

The 96's have evap problems. 

All 210's have mid-panel spontaneous rust problems.

Additionally, 210's love to rust around fender arches, above the trim where the 
front fenders attach at the bottom/rear, and near the front top corners of the 
rear bumper (on the body).

All OM606 engines are prone to snapping off glow plugs.

To check the perches you have to get it up, take off the wheels and peel back 
the caulk/sealant to inspect for hidden rust. (There is no other way).

The perches can/will look good until they actually start to fall off. The rust 
is completely hidden otherwise; that's what makes it so bad.
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On Mar 22, 2014, at 13:15, Dwight Giles  wrote:

> Edmunds. Com has pretty good price guide.  I have seen top rust at top of
> strut under hood. I don't know about underneath.  I have a buddy who had to
> put 2 front fenders on his w210 diesel.  I have always loved the retro look
> of them. Hope you get a keeper.
> On Mar 22, 2014 10:19 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
> 
>> What should one (I) pay for a 96 E300D at auction if the spring perches
>> haven't rusted out, and how can I check 'em readily without crawling around
>> under it with a flashlight?  Can I readily see what is necessary from above
>> with hood up?  BTW, 'haven't seen it yet and mileage unknown.  May not get
>> to see it 'til day before the auction.  It's in Eastern NC; if it's been
>> here all of its life, rust a should be nil.
>> 
>> Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Seat belt

[John Reames]

I have at least four belts (all front seat!) in need of the thing. Sewing a 
button on each side sounds good to me!

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On Mar 13, 2014, at 20:44, Frederick Moir  wrote:

> Randy, et al.
> "Are you talking about the button that is on the belt itself."
> Yup. That one.
> I, too, thought of a shirt button type of thing, plus I have my Boy Scout 
> skills and a military (RAF) "Housewife" sewing kit.
> The proper MBZ part would be better of course, just not as olde yankee!
> Thanks for the reply.
>  
> Fred Moir 
> Lynn MA 
> Diesel preferred.
> 
> 
>> 
>> From: Randy Bennell 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List  
>> Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2014 6:07 PM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat belt
>> 
>> 
>> On 13/03/2014 4:58 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:
>> 
>>> Does anyone know of a source for the plastic seat belt button that keeps 
>>> the buckle within reach?
>>>   
>>> Fred Moir
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Re: [MBZ] RIP Frankenheap

[John Reames]

I've been having cold weather problems with a w210 doing similar. I suspect 
that water is in one of the vacuum lines and freezes when it gets really cold...

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On Mar 10, 2014, at 14:20, Tim Crone  wrote:

> On Sun, Mar 9, 2014 at 10:48 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> 
>> Only the heap's trunk won't unlock.  I had been rear-ended in
>> the snow a month earlier, and while the car was knocked back
>> together, and the trunk opened and closed just fine, I had
>> never locked it since the accident.  Well, it _locked_ just
>> fine, but would not unlock.
> 
> I had the same experience with the 300D.  It wouldn't unlock for about two
> days, then mysteriously it unlocked again.  I think it happened when I
> parked its rear end in the sun for a while.  I assume something froze, even
> though at the time the lock was in perfect condition externally.
> 
> Might consider trying Wilton's experiment with the random orbital sander,
> too.
> 
> Best,
> Tim
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Re: [MBZ] RIP Frankenheap

[John Reames]

Any way to shove a fish-tape through it and poke out the marble from the back?

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On Mar 9, 2014, at 22:48, Jim Cathey  wrote:

> So today I sat in as 3rd trumpet on a concert my wife
> was playing.  Unpaid, volunteer gig.  I have a tux,
> and don't charge, so even though I kinda suck I still
> get asked to dance once in awhile...
> 
> _Anyway_, there I am, in my tux in the parking lot going to
> swap one trumpet for another, as I had to hurry to our concert
> band's dress rehearsal immediately after the concert, and
> I _need_ the other horn.
> 
> Only the heap's trunk won't unlock.  I had been rear-ended in
> the snow a month earlier, and while the car was knocked back
> together, and the trunk opened and closed just fine, I had
> never locked it since the accident.  Well, it _locked_ just
> fine, but would not unlock.
> 
> So I'm about to be late for the dress rehearsal, and I only
> have a C horn.  Mind you, I only _have_ a C horn because
> I basically can't transpose.  The conductor of today's
> concert was there, and was the musical director of the
> school it was held at.  He had a spare Bb cornet in the
> band room.   "I don't know when it was last played.
> There's no mouthpiece.  But you're welcome to borrow
> it."
> 
> Well, I figure it's a step up from 'nothing', and just
> has to be better than me flailing around on C, so I grab
> it and dash off to the next school.  Which I find, only
> there are no unlocked doors.  After a trip around the
> building, gathering up other lost souls, we eventually
> found the one door with a stooge, who had wandered away
> for awhile.  In we all go, they're starting to play already.
> So much for a little recovery time.
> 
> I hold my T mouthpiece into the cornet, a Conn Victor,
> and it doesn't blow.  At all.  I look, and find that
> the #1 and #2 slides are swapped.  That's not a good
> sign, I swap them back.  I then check the valves, and
> yes, somebody has swapped #1 & #2.  I put them back.
> #2 promptly binds, it's not working right.  And the
> horn is still blocked.  I look down the bell, somebody
> has thoughtfully rammed a marble down there!  I can't
> shake or blow it out, I think this horn is done for
> the day!
> 
> Fortunately my stand-mate had brought her new old
> Conn/Wurlitzer Bb/C cornet along for show and tell.
> And a cornet mouthpiece.  We had to find the stooge
> again, and go out to the parking lot to get it.  I
> played that the rest of the rehearsal, trying to dial
> in the (as-yet unknown) tuning, figure out which HP/LP
> slides were what was needed, etc.  It was fairly grim,
> she was still in the middle of polishing it, and
> figuring out how it went together.  I don't think
> she had really played it at all yet.  I think I just
> played it _way_ more than she had.  Unfamiliar horn,
> unfamiliar mouthpiece, didn't even have time to tune
> it, except on the fly.  Oh, and my solo's coming up
> fast.  Ugh.
> 
> Sigh.  And my trumpet is still locked in the trunk.
> I have other horns, but I could really use the music
> for the concert, and I'm supposed to return it then.
> I will drill into it in the morning, I guess.  My
> good horn, music, and good leather coat are still
> trapped in there.
> 
> I think the settlement amount with the Insco just
> went up.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] ALDA

[John Reames]

IIRC, the ADA is basically an ALDA that is open to atmospheric pressure.  It 
was a very different shape, but the way it works is similar-a sealed section 
(an aneroid) is inside the outer casing.  The aneroid works against the 
adjustment screw at the top and the pin from the injection pump at the bottom.  
Higher pressures flatten the aneroid more than lower pressures, which allows 
the injection pump pin to stick out more.  The screw is used to calibrate the 
unit.

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On Feb 21, 2014, at 14:44, Randy Bennell  wrote:

> On 21/02/2014 8:22 AM, Dieselhead wrote:
>>> The ALDA is critical for getting extra power from the turbo.  The turbo just
>>> adds more air, which (by itself) doesn't make more power.  The ALDA causes
>>> the IP to add the extra fuel to generate power with the additional air.
>>> 
>>> The ALDA has a rod that pushes down on a linkage in the IP to *reduce* the
>>> amount of injected fuel.  Intake manifold pressure is routed to the ALDA to
>>> raise the rod when manifold pressure increases.   I believe the engine would
>>> run very rich (except at max boost) with the ALDA removed.
>> 
>> Correct, at one altitude.  The ADA was introduced as altitude compensation, 
>> and if you ever drove a non Altitude compensated Diesel over I80 in CO, then 
>> you appreciate the device.  With the turbo models, the ADA became the ALDA.  
>> Part of the function of the ALDA is reducing fuel as the car gains altitude. 
>>   Even at 4000 ft driving from Ka'u to Hilo on the island of Hawaii, an ADA 
>> or ALDA is appreciated.
>> 
>> ___
> 
> Ok, I think I have this figured out from reading the other posts and thinking 
> about it.
> 
> The ADA is not automatic on something like my 115 300D.
> If I were to move to Denver, I would want to reduce the amount of fuel as my 
> non turbo car would not be happy getting so much fuel as it does down near 
> sea level when it was up in the mountains where the air is thinner.
> 
> Somewhere on the IP, I think there is something that is used to adjust for 
> altitude. In Denver one would reduce the fuel and if one drove to LA from 
> there, once down lower, one would likely want to increase the amount of fuel.
> 
> Randy
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Service manuals for 123, 108, 113, and such...

[John Reames]

I still have a w123... How much for the CD?

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On Feb 11, 2014, at 15:15, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> I have a set of the classic (110/111/108/114/115, I think) manuals as well as 
> both W123 and W126 manuals on CD if anyone is interested.
> 
> Dan
> 
>> On Feb 11, 2014, at 2:34 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:
>> 
>> I hvae some 108 and 111 manuals and literature.  Anyone interested?
>> 
>>> On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 7:55 PM, Craig  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Mon, 10 Feb 2014 08:39:15 -0800 (PST) Richard Hattaway
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 OM617.95 book
 123 Chassis ACC book
 123 Chassis 1984 update manual
 
 So if you see something you want, let me know.
>>> 
>>> Richard,
>>> 
>>> I'm interested in the ones listed above.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Craig
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes C3 Star System

[John Reames]

You just need a thinkpad t30 to put the HDD into... (Beware the DIMM socket 
problems!)

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On Feb 11, 2014, at 10:31, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> Shipped via DHL from Hong Kong early this morning (late Tuesday local time.)
> 
> Looks like it should arrive here on Thursday.
> 
> Dan 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes C3 Star Diagnostic System

[John Reames]

A few years back, they were going for $1100...

Some of them even have acterna silkscreened onto the internal PCB's...

Go figure.

I understand that the ones that are rs485 out and have an adapter cable to 
rs232 are supposedly more stable.

It certainly doesn't take many uses of it to break even with respect to having 
a dealer pull codes/perform resets...



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On Feb 9, 2014, at 17:49, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> No laptop, just the software on an external hard drive.  I have two older 
> laptops running XP that have serial ports,  so I'm covered there.
> 
> I can justify $300 for something that will do diagnostics, reset codes and 
> access the WIS and EPC for both of my cars.  A couple of resets and I'm 
> already ahead of the game, considering what the dealer charges for 
> diagnostics.
> 
> I'll report back as soon as I get it and have it up and running.
> 
> Dan
> 
> On Feb 9, 2014, at 4:59 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> 
>> That's a heck of a lot cheaper than I bought mine for
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 123's, as in "Would you buy a new production 123?"

[John Reames]

Yup. No changes needed... (W123.133)... Although I wouldn't mind a 300TD(t)



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On Feb 3, 2014, at 4:23, Tim Crone  wrote:

> On Feb 3, 2014 3:00 AM, "Jerry Herrman"  wrote:
>> 
>> As for myself, I would consider a brand new production 123 or a Volvo 240
> just like mine, with no modifications - well, except for air bags, and I'd
> like better fuel economy, so maybe just a small easy-to-replace inexpensive
> computer. Oh, and some upgrades to the . . . . .
> 
> I used to have a 92 940 with a driver's air bag, and I probably still have
> a core from the easy-to-replace computer.
> 
> I'm still not convinced that a 240D is significantly more reliable than
> many modern vehicles that receives similar care and attention, just it's
> much easier to work on - and once you add a rats'-nest of controls for
> safety and emissions retirements I'm not sure that advantage will still be
> present.
> 
> Best,
> Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Om606.962/w210.025 shutoff leak

[John Reames]

I ended up getting a w210 kit from one of the biodiesel kit hawkers, and a 
shutoff valve (it's for her w210, not mine), and will put both in together. 
I'll also put in viton bypass hoses too.

I'm tired of leaks from that one. (New fuel lines and new shutoff o-ring 
already... Original shutoff with close to 200k on it)

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On Jan 31, 2014, at 19:48, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Its a bit quick, I agree, but it is cheaper than buying a new shutoff unit.  
> My other thought is a hairline crack in the unit.
> 
> I take in in a MB part number oring and have them match it at the local 
> industrial supply.  THey have both us and metric size, but only US in viton.  
> I got the closest size in US, and so far so good. FInding a place that has 
> metric viton would be best.
> 
>> In 2 months?
>> 
>> That's a bit quick.
>> 
>> I should add (knocking on wood) that it only affects 1 of the 2 
>> w210.025/om606.962's in my driveway...
>> 
>> Any sources for them?
>> --
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>> jream...@verizon.net
>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>> On Jan 31, 2014, at 8:29, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> > try viton orings?  the ULSD eats normal black orings as in the OM603 
>> > delivery valve unions.  I have taken to replacing them with viton.
>> >
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300D paatz.

[John Reames]

I thought you meant CRAFT syndrome for a minute...

Then I remembered.. (Or did I?)

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On Feb 1, 2014, at 18:35, Dwight Giles  wrote:

> I don't think so since it is usually CRS disease. I can't remember who
> wanted the hood star.
> On Feb 1, 2014 5:57 PM, "Frederick Moir"  wrote:
> 
>> Dwight.
>> Right!
>> Must be some of that academic rigor.
>> Craig, steering wheel?
>> 
>> Fred Moir
>> Lynn MA
>> Diesel preferred.
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> From: Dwight Giles 
>>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>>> Sent: Saturday, February 1, 2014 4:50 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300D paatz.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Didn't Rick want the steering wheel?
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Re: [MBZ] Om606.962/w210.025 shutoff leak

[John Reames]

In 2 months? 

That's a bit quick.

I should add (knocking on wood) that it only affects 1 of the 2 
w210.025/om606.962's in my driveway...

Any sources for them?
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On Jan 31, 2014, at 8:29, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> try viton orings?  the ULSD eats normal black orings as in the OM603 delivery 
> valve unions.  I have taken to replacing them with viton.
> 
> 
> 
>> This electronic shutoff has a fuel leak.
>> 
>> The thing looks like 
>> http://www.buyeuroparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1999-MERCEDES--BENZ-E300&yearid=1999%40%401999&makeid=63%40%40Mercedes-Benz&modelid=6385%3AMBC%7C1572%3AED%7C814%40%40E300&catid=240706@@Diesel%20Injection&subcatid=240724@@Shut%20Off%20Valve&mode=PA
>>  and is attached to the side of the IP.
>> 
>> The thing had no leaks with a new o-ring and new plastic lines for almost 2 
>> months.
>> 
>> With the recent cold snap its started leaking like a sieve.
>> 
>> --
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>> Home: +14106646986
>> Mobile: +14437915905
>> 
>> On Jan 30, 2014, at 20:49, Peter Frederick  wrote:
>> 
>>> Leaks around the base of the shutoff valve are a gasket problem, either a 
>>> nick in it, misplaced, or a scratch or gouge in the top of the IP allowing 
>>> oil around.
>>> 
>>> Oil leaking out of the manual shutoff lever where it goes into the IP is a 
>>> bad o-ring that needs to be replaced.
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Om606.962/w210.025 shutoff leak

[John Reames]

This electronic shutoff has a fuel leak.

The thing looks like 
http://www.buyeuroparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1999-MERCEDES--BENZ-E300&yearid=1999%40%401999&makeid=63%40%40Mercedes-Benz&modelid=6385%3AMBC%7C1572%3AED%7C814%40%40E300&catid=240706@@Diesel%20Injection&subcatid=240724@@Shut%20Off%20Valve&mode=PA
 and is attached to the side of the IP.

The thing had no leaks with a new o-ring and new plastic lines for almost 2 
months. 

With the recent cold snap its started leaking like a sieve.

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On Jan 30, 2014, at 20:49, Peter Frederick  wrote:

> Leaks around the base of the shutoff valve are a gasket problem, either a 
> nick in it, misplaced, or a scratch or gouge in the top of the IP allowing 
> oil around.
> 
> Oil leaking out of the manual shutoff lever where it goes into the IP is a 
> bad o-ring that needs to be replaced.
> 
> Peter
> 
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[MBZ] Om606.962/w210.025 shutoff leak

[John Reames]

With engine running, I see a visible drip (~1 drop per second) from the bottom 
of the shutoff valve.  

The lines under it are saturated; they were replaced along with the fuel filter 
and shutoff valve o-ring on thanksgiving weekend.  I'd expect that the o-ring 
between the IP and valve should last longer than 2 months, as should the 
lines... 

Do the valves themselves start to leak over time?

Thanks much,
-j.



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