Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-09 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I'm with Peter on this one.  First chain replacement I ever did was on
almost the same engine (OM617.912) and I also managed to skip a tooth,
but checked my work, found the problem, and corrected it.  If you don't
want to pull the pre-chamber (I didn't either),  I think you'll have to
determine skip or not skip by experimentation.  Rotate the engine
through several complete revolutions by hand to make sure there's no
piston/valve interference, button up and drive the car and judge the
power output.  If not satisfactory, move chain one tooth on camshaft
gear, verify no interference between pistons/valves, then check the
power output for improvement.  Decide which position is better.

I'll bet that your harmonic balancer is fine and is reading true.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2010 8:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

Yes, you can remove the bottom oil pan.  Messy, but should work.

You can also pull the #1 prechamber and use something like a coat hanger
wire to determine when the piston is at TDC.  Even just pulling the
injector or glow plug should let you know if you are close.  Stops
blowing and starts sucking in air at TDC on the compression stroke.

Or you can assume you have jumped a tooth, which is rather common --
I've done it twice.  I believe they are 13 degrees each, so it ads up
pretty well, and you would be within 2 degrees if you move the cam
sprocket.

It will run just fine, although low on power with the cam 15 degrees
late.  15 advance and the pistons hit the valves.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-09 Thread Rolf
There is always option C. Removing the cam lobes/retaining nut/spring on 
number one and rotating engine until the valves dont drop in the 
engine... I would take this over pulling prechambers any day...


-Rolf

On 11/09/2010 07:47 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
wrote:

I'm with Peter on this one.  First chain replacement I ever did was on
almost the same engine (OM617.912) and I also managed to skip a tooth,
but checked my work, found the problem, and corrected it.  If you don't
want to pull the pre-chamber (I didn't either),  I think you'll have to
determine skip or not skip by experimentation.  Rotate the engine
through several complete revolutions by hand to make sure there's no
piston/valve interference, button up and drive the car and judge the
power output.  If not satisfactory, move chain one tooth on camshaft
gear, verify no interference between pistons/valves, then check the
power output for improvement.  Decide which position is better.

I'll bet that your harmonic balancer is fine and is reading true.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2010 8:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

Yes, you can remove the bottom oil pan.  Messy, but should work.

You can also pull the #1 prechamber and use something like a coat hanger
wire to determine when the piston is at TDC.  Even just pulling the
injector or glow plug should let you know if you are close.  Stops
blowing and starts sucking in air at TDC on the compression stroke.

Or you can assume you have jumped a tooth, which is rather common --
I've done it twice.  I believe they are 13 degrees each, so it ads up
pretty well, and you would be within 2 degrees if you move the cam
sprocket.

It will run just fine, although low on power with the cam 15 degrees
late.  15 advance and the pistons hit the valves.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-09 Thread Mitch Haley

Rolf wrote:
There is always option C. Removing the cam lobes/retaining nut/spring on 
number one and rotating engine until the valves dont drop in the 
engine... I would take this over pulling prechambers any day...


I'd pull #1 glow plug, fit a hose to the glow plug hole, and fill the cylinder 
with oil near TDC. When you find the point at which the most oil is pushed out 
the hose, you should be within one degree of TDC. Just leave the GP out until 
after you start the engine for the first time, to blow out the oil.


Mitch.

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[MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread David Bruckmann
Ok, so I've replaced the chain in my 617.910. It is now perhaps half a degree  
better than it was before the chain replacement, but the crank scale is still 
reading 15+ degrees ATDC when the cam notch is lined up with the mark! (pics 
attached)

Given the measurement margin of error, the 15 degree offset seems suspiciously 
close to the 18 degree offset produced when the chain is off by one tooth at 
the cam. I'm wondering if it skipped a tooth at some point in the past, perhaps 
when the chain was replaced previously (it was an IWIS chain and had almost no 
wear).  I know this skip didn't happen during my recent chain replacement, 
because at no point was either end of the chain not under tension or out of 
contact with the cam gear. I didn't even remove the tensioner.

In any case, before I go further I need to determine whether the crank scale's 
indicated TDC really is TDC...

Apart from the scale, is there any other externally visible reference mark on 
the crankshaft? I want to rule out that the harmonic balancer/scale has come 
loose or wandered, something that seems to happen occasionally, eg if someone 
impatiently reinstalled it during front seal replacement. 

If possible, I'd rather not have to remove a prechamber to check piston 
position, so I'm hoping maybe there's some kind of reference mark on the 
crankshaft that can be checked against the scale. And given how hard it sounds 
like it is to properly install the balancer once removed, I'd rather not touch 
that either if I can avoid it.

Would removing the lower oil pan be an option as a means of seeing the movement 
of #1 conn rod towards TDC? I haven't checked if the pan can be removed 
in-situ, but intuitively it seems like perhaps it could...

D.
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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread Peter Frederick

Yes, you can remove the bottom oil pan.  Messy, but should work.

You can also pull the #1 prechamber and use something like a coat  
hanger wire to determine when the piston is at TDC.  Even just pulling  
the injector or glow plug should let you know if you are close.  Stops  
blowing and starts sucking in air at TDC on the compression stroke.


Or you can assume you have jumped a tooth, which is rather common --  
I've done it twice.  I believe they are 13 degrees each, so it ads up  
pretty well, and you would be within 2 degrees if you move the cam  
sprocket.


It will run just fine, although low on power with the cam 15 degrees  
late.  15 advance and the pistons hit the valves.


Peter



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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread Craig
On Fri, 5 Nov 2010 12:32:40 -0700 David Bruckmann
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 Ok, so I've replaced the chain in my 617.910. It is now perhaps half a
 degree  better than it was before the chain replacement, but the crank
 scale is still reading 15+ degrees ATDC when the cam notch is lined up
 with the mark! (pics attached)

Yup, that is what it looks like.


 Given the measurement margin of error, the 15 degree offset seems
 suspiciously close to the 18 degree offset produced when the chain is
 off by one tooth at the cam.

Is does seem suspicious.


 In any case, before I go further I need to determine whether the crank
 scale's indicated TDC really is TDC...

That would be a good idea.


 Apart from the scale, is there any other externally visible reference
 mark on the crankshaft?

Sorry, I don't know. I'm in Knoxville, TN, and my manuals are in Los
Alamos, NM.


 Would removing the lower oil pan be an option as a means of seeing the
 movement of #1 conn rod towards TDC? 

Yes, but I'm not sure how accurately you could see the piston's position.
The amount of travel of the piston gets quite small the closer you rotate
the crank to TDC.


 I haven't checked if the pan can be removed in-situ, but intuitively it
 seems like perhaps it could...

You can remove the lower oil pan, but the oil pump is in the way to
readily see up into the upper reaches of the engine. With a mirror you
might be able to see what you need to.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread John Reames
Do the 910's have the rear sensor on the flywheel like the newer ones do?

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Nov 5, 2010, at 20:33, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Fri, 5 Nov 2010 12:32:40 -0700 David Bruckmann
 bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:
 
 Ok, so I've replaced the chain in my 617.910. It is now perhaps half a
 degree  better than it was before the chain replacement, but the crank
 scale is still reading 15+ degrees ATDC when the cam notch is lined up
 with the mark! (pics attached)
 
 Yup, that is what it looks like.
 
 
 Given the measurement margin of error, the 15 degree offset seems
 suspiciously close to the 18 degree offset produced when the chain is
 off by one tooth at the cam.
 
 Is does seem suspicious.
 
 
 In any case, before I go further I need to determine whether the crank
 scale's indicated TDC really is TDC...
 
 That would be a good idea.
 
 
 Apart from the scale, is there any other externally visible reference
 mark on the crankshaft?
 
 Sorry, I don't know. I'm in Knoxville, TN, and my manuals are in Los
 Alamos, NM.
 
 
 Would removing the lower oil pan be an option as a means of seeing the
 movement of #1 conn rod towards TDC? 
 
 Yes, but I'm not sure how accurately you could see the piston's position.
 The amount of travel of the piston gets quite small the closer you rotate
 the crank to TDC.
 
 
 I haven't checked if the pan can be removed in-situ, but intuitively it
 seems like perhaps it could...
 
 You can remove the lower oil pan, but the oil pump is in the way to
 readily see up into the upper reaches of the engine. With a mirror you
 might be able to see what you need to.
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread Dieselhead
To me it is easier, (and the book procedure) to pull #1 nozzle and 
the prechamber.  Then you put a 1/8 rod in and monitor as it comes 
up.  Mark (on the damper) where it stops rising.  Mark again where it 
starts to fall.  In between is TDC.  Do this for several turns.  That 
confirms the accuracy.


This procedure is in the OM621 book.  It may be in the OM616/617 book also.

BTW, my 70 R75/5 came with the perfect rod as part of the toolkit. 
(used to determine TDC on the BMW)




Ok, so I've replaced the chain in my 617.910. It is now perhaps half 
a degree  better than it was before the chain replacement, but the 
crank scale is still reading 15+ degrees ATDC when the cam notch is 
lined up with the mark! (pics attached)


Given the measurement margin of error, the 15 degree offset seems 
suspiciously close to the 18 degree offset produced when the chain 
is off by one tooth at the cam. I'm wondering if it skipped a tooth 
at some point in the past, perhaps when the chain was replaced 
previously (it was an IWIS chain and had almost no wear).  I know 
this skip didn't happen during my recent chain replacement, 
because at no point was either end of the chain not under tension or 
out of contact with the cam gear. I didn't even remove the tensioner.


In any case, before I go further I need to determine whether the 
crank scale's indicated TDC really is TDC...


Apart from the scale, is there any other externally visible 
reference mark on the crankshaft? I want to rule out that the 
harmonic balancer/scale has come loose or wandered, something that 
seems to happen occasionally, eg if someone impatiently reinstalled 
it during front seal replacement.


If possible, I'd rather not have to remove a prechamber to check 
piston position, so I'm hoping maybe there's some kind of reference 
mark on the crankshaft that can be checked against the scale. And 
given how hard it sounds like it is to properly install the balancer 
once removed, I'd rather not touch that either if I can avoid it.


Would removing the lower oil pan be an option as a means of seeing 
the movement of #1 conn rod towards TDC? I haven't checked if the 
pan can be removed in-situ, but intuitively it seems like perhaps it 
could...


D.
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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread Mitch Haley

Craig wrote:



In any case, before I go further I need to determine whether the crank
scale's indicated TDC really is TDC...


That would be a good idea.


I just got home from swapping the harmonic balancer on a friend's Toyota.
Last summer when he broke the timing belt, we discovered that the timing mark 
was about 70 degrees off from where the pistons were. Balancer looked OK, so we 
just slapped it back together. This week he started having accessory drive 
problems. The balancer had failed and the pulley was trying to chew a hole in 
the timing cover.


The moral to the story is that if the timing mark on the balancer is incorrect, 
replace the balancer NOW.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OM617 - Identifying real crank position

2010-11-05 Thread Rolf

2mm lift method?

-Rolf

On 11/5/2010 3:32 PM, David Bruckmann wrote:

Ok, so I've replaced the chain in my 617.910. It is now perhaps half a degree  
better than it was before the chain replacement, but the crank scale is still 
reading 15+ degrees ATDC when the cam notch is lined up with the mark! (pics 
attached)

Given the measurement margin of error, the 15 degree offset seems suspiciously close to 
the 18 degree offset produced when the chain is off by one tooth at the cam. I'm 
wondering if it skipped a tooth at some point in the past, perhaps when the chain was 
replaced previously (it was an IWIS chain and had almost no wear).  I know this 
skip didn't happen during my recent chain replacement, because at no point 
was either end of the chain not under tension or out of contact with the cam gear. I 
didn't even remove the tensioner.

In any case, before I go further I need to determine whether the crank scale's 
indicated TDC really is TDC...

Apart from the scale, is there any other externally visible reference mark on 
the crankshaft? I want to rule out that the harmonic balancer/scale has come 
loose or wandered, something that seems to happen occasionally, eg if someone 
impatiently reinstalled it during front seal replacement.

If possible, I'd rather not have to remove a prechamber to check piston 
position, so I'm hoping maybe there's some kind of reference mark on the 
crankshaft that can be checked against the scale. And given how hard it sounds 
like it is to properly install the balancer once removed, I'd rather not touch 
that either if I can avoid it.

Would removing the lower oil pan be an option as a means of seeing the movement 
of #1 conn rod towards TDC? I haven't checked if the pan can be removed 
in-situ, but intuitively it seems like perhaps it could...

D.
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