Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
> The rebuilt native 87 300td half shaft failed within 500 miles as > predicted and the diff tried to leave the subframe, which was twisted up in > the process. > > I have procured a v8 subframe, 2.65 210mm diff from a 91 500sl, v8 > driveshaft complete, and a 4 bolt flange for the transmission and a tranny > support from a v8 car (larger guibos I think require the V8 cast alu > support; not sure if it will bolt up as the mounting holes are spaced > further apart than the steel one). > > I have urethane bushings for the whole car, so those will go into the new > subframe before it goes in. Also have a w211 rear AMG 21mm anti sway bar, > so will see how that fits. > > I have heard the v8 suspension links have a larger eg m12 bolt size than > the I6 cars. Can anyone confirm? > > May do the spindle bushings and bearings while it is apart, so thanks for > this thread. > > Karl > > > > On Fri, Jul 27, 2018, 3:40 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > >> SKF or Timken. >> >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> >> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Sounds like FAG is one to add to the 'good' list... Thanks for the info - LarryT On 07/27/2018 11:14 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote: On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 19:33:51 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote: Have never heard of FAG, or most others. It's short for Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik, obviously. :-) Trademarked since 1905. Fischer was first to invent a machine for making high-quality steel spheres in volume, in 1883. http://www.reliablebearing.com/history.htm History and Development An early type of linear bearing was an arrangement of tree trunks laid down under sleds. This technology may date as far back as the construction of the Pyramids of Giza, though there is no definitive evidence. Modern linear bearings use a similar principle, sometimes with balls in place of rollers. The first plain and rolling-element bearings were wood, but ceramic, sapphire or glass can be used, and steel, bronze, other metals, and plastic (e.g., nylon, polyoxymethylene, teflon, and UHMWPE) are all common today. Indeed, stone was even used in various forms. Think of the "jewelled pocket watch", which incorporated stones to reduce frictional loads, and allow a smoother running watch. Of course, with older, mechanical timepieces, the smoother the operating properties, then the higher the accuracy and value. Wood can still be seen today in old water mills, and the water itself had a part to play in the cooling/lubrication implications, of such natural and commonly found, bearing resources. John Harrison. Click to read more. Rotary bearings are required for many applications, from heavy-duty use in vehicle axles and machine shafts, to precision clock parts. The simplest rotary bearing is the sleeve bearing, which is just a cylinder inserted between the wheel and its axle. This was followed by the roller bearing, in which the sleeve was replaced by a number of cylindrical rollers. Each roller behaves as an individual wheel.The first practical caged-roller bearing was invented by horologist John Harrison in his H3 chronometer of 1760. An early example of a wooden ball bearing, supporting a rotating table, was retrieved from the remains of a Roman ship in Lake Nemi, Italy. The wreck was dated to 40 BC. Leonardo da Vinci is said to have described a type of ball bearing around the year 1500. One of the issues with ball bearings is that they can rub against each other, causing additional friction, but this can be prevented by enclosing the balls in a cage. The captured, or caged, ball bearing was originally described by Galileo in the 1600s. The mounting of bearings into a set was not accomplished for many years after that. The first patent for a ball race was by Philip Vaughan of Carmarthen in 1794. Friedrich Fischer`s idea from the year 1883 for milling and grinding balls of equal size and exact roundness by means of a suitable production machine formed the foundation for creation of an independent bearing industry. The initials of the names "Fischers Automatische Gußstahlkugelfabrik" or "Fischer Aktien-Gesellschaft" became a logo which was registered on 29 July, 1905. In 1962 it got the look it still has today, and it finally became an integral part of the company in 1979. The modern, self-aligning design of ball bearing is attributed to Sven Wingquist of the SKF ball-bearing manufacturer in 1907. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 19:33:51 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote: > > > > Have never heard of FAG, or most others. > > > It's short for Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik, > obviously. :-) Trademarked since 1905. > > Fischer was first to invent a machine for making high-quality steel > spheres in volume, in 1883. http://www.reliablebearing.com/history.htm History and Development An early type of linear bearing was an arrangement of tree trunks laid down under sleds. This technology may date as far back as the construction of the Pyramids of Giza, though there is no definitive evidence. Modern linear bearings use a similar principle, sometimes with balls in place of rollers. The first plain and rolling-element bearings were wood, but ceramic, sapphire or glass can be used, and steel, bronze, other metals, and plastic (e.g., nylon, polyoxymethylene, teflon, and UHMWPE) are all common today. Indeed, stone was even used in various forms. Think of the "jewelled pocket watch", which incorporated stones to reduce frictional loads, and allow a smoother running watch. Of course, with older, mechanical timepieces, the smoother the operating properties, then the higher the accuracy and value. Wood can still be seen today in old water mills, and the water itself had a part to play in the cooling/lubrication implications, of such natural and commonly found, bearing resources. John Harrison. Click to read more. Rotary bearings are required for many applications, from heavy-duty use in vehicle axles and machine shafts, to precision clock parts. The simplest rotary bearing is the sleeve bearing, which is just a cylinder inserted between the wheel and its axle. This was followed by the roller bearing, in which the sleeve was replaced by a number of cylindrical rollers. Each roller behaves as an individual wheel.The first practical caged-roller bearing was invented by horologist John Harrison in his H3 chronometer of 1760. An early example of a wooden ball bearing, supporting a rotating table, was retrieved from the remains of a Roman ship in Lake Nemi, Italy. The wreck was dated to 40 BC. Leonardo da Vinci is said to have described a type of ball bearing around the year 1500. One of the issues with ball bearings is that they can rub against each other, causing additional friction, but this can be prevented by enclosing the balls in a cage. The captured, or caged, ball bearing was originally described by Galileo in the 1600s. The mounting of bearings into a set was not accomplished for many years after that. The first patent for a ball race was by Philip Vaughan of Carmarthen in 1794. Friedrich Fischer`s idea from the year 1883 for milling and grinding balls of equal size and exact roundness by means of a suitable production machine formed the foundation for creation of an independent bearing industry. The initials of the names "Fischers Automatische Gußstahlkugelfabrik" or "Fischer Aktien-Gesellschaft" became a logo which was registered on 29 July, 1905. In 1962 it got the look it still has today, and it finally became an integral part of the company in 1979. The modern, self-aligning design of ball bearing is attributed to Sven Wingquist of the SKF ball-bearing manufacturer in 1907. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
> > Have never heard of FAG, or most others. It's short for Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik, obviously. :-) Trademarked since 1905. Fischer was first to invent a machine for making high-quality steel spheres in volume, in 1883. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks Mitch! I'll probably go with the Timken, National or SKF. No need to cheap out. Course I don't want to go with OEM MB which is probably triple the cost of Timken or SKF. TIA - Larry On 07/27/2018 3:41 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: I just took a look at Rock Auto. HooFlungDung are under $25, one of them is $13. Timken and National are $54. SKF are $85. Mitch. On July 27, 2018 at 3:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote: Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the others in terms of real world performance. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
SKF or Timken. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
It's kind of like Red Bull. If it wasn't expensive, you wouldn't know you were drinking a premium beverage :-) On Fri, Jul 27, 2018, 12:41 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > I just took a look at Rock Auto. > HooFlungDung are under $25, one of them is $13. > Timken and National are $54. > SKF are $85. > > Mitch. > > > On July 27, 2018 at 3:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > > > > > Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the > > others in terms of real world performance. > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
I just took a look at Rock Auto. HooFlungDung are under $25, one of them is $13. Timken and National are $54. SKF are $85. Mitch. > On July 27, 2018 at 3:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes > wrote: > > > Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the > others in terms of real world performance. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the others in terms of real world performance. Is that list based upon anything objective? A Timken bearing is a pretty good bearing in my experience. On Fri, Jul 27, 2018, 10:24 AM Rick Knoble via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > Larry asks: > > >When I get to the point when I'm ready to buy a >replacement bearing > kit, which brand is the >highest quality? > > In my opinion, (and others) here is the pecking order of bearing quality. > > 1. FAG > 2. SKF > 3. NSK > 4. NTN > 5. Timken > > Aisin should probably be in there somewhere. > > Stay away from Chinesium bearings would be the foremost admononishment. > > Rick > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Larry asks: >When I get to the point when I'm ready to buy a >replacement bearing kit, >which brand is the >highest quality? In my opinion, (and others) here is the pecking order of bearing quality. 1. FAG 2. SKF 3. NSK 4. NTN 5. Timken Aisin should probably be in there somewhere. Stay away from Chinesium bearings would be the foremost admononishment. Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Hi Ya'll, When I get to the point when I'm ready to buy a replacement bearing kit, which brand is the highest quality? I've seen FAG, Aftermarket (there's a creative name), and others. Have never heard of FAG, or most others. TIA! LarryT On 07/26/2018 8:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer). The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up. No need to loosen the other end unless the rubber is shot. For some reason I was thinking it was similar to the W163, which didn't involve any rubber bushed joints to remove the axle. Oops. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks Peter On 07/26/2018 8:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer). The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up. No need to loosen the other end unless the rubber is shot. For some reason I was thinking it was similar to the W163, which didn't involve any rubber bushed joints to remove the axle. Oops. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
> On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes > wrote: > > > The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a > pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer). > > The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the > wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up. No > need to loosen the other end unless the rubber is shot. For some reason I was thinking it was similar to the W163, which didn't involve any rubber bushed joints to remove the axle. Oops. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer). The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up. No need to loosen the other end unless the rubber is shot. Tightening them up with the wheel carrier hanging will result in very odd ride and funny wheel position, plus they won't last. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
no, this is the 5 link rear suspension. No ball joints, except one link has small ball joints. the 5 suspension links are what need to be tightened with the wheel in driving position (loaded) all other fasteners are tightened as normal. I reuse all fasteners that are not obviously bad. Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: Removing the wheel carrier should involve some ball joints, a brake caliper and a parking brake cable. Suspension position shouldn't matter when tightening ball joint stud nuts. If you loosen any bolts in control arm bushings, those should be tightened with the car parked on a level surface, or you'll be twisting the bushings when the car's just sitting there and they won't last long. Mitch. _ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks Mitch - I'll have my suspension shop check the alignment and also check the torque on the fasteners... Sincerely, Larry On 07/25/2018 10:56 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: Removing the wheel carrier should involve some ball joints, a brake caliper and a parking brake cable. Suspension position shouldn't matter when tightening ball joint stud nuts. If you loosen any bolts in control arm bushings, those should be tightened with the car parked on a level surface, or you'll be twisting the bushings when the car's just sitting there and they won't last long. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Removing the wheel carrier should involve some ball joints, a brake caliper and a parking brake cable. Suspension position shouldn't matter when tightening ball joint stud nuts. If you loosen any bolts in control arm bushings, those should be tightened with the car parked on a level surface, or you'll be twisting the bushings when the car's just sitting there and they won't last long. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Hey Curley, That's really good to know! Thanks for that! Now my plans can start to come together. I'm probably worrying too much about this, but the thought of wailing away on the axle shaft to pop it loose bothers me. it'll probably go easy and even if the cir-clip is damaged I can use a new one. Hopefully the bolted connections come loose easy... Once I see what the bearing looks like I should know if I can re-use the carrier. Hopefully the shop I plan to r the bearings will have few problems. but even if they do there seems to be lots of used ones around if the present one needs to be replaced. The Pelican procedure suggest using new fasteners and compression sleeves. I understand the sleeves but if the bolts/nuts aren't damaged shouldn't they be ok to re-use? Lastly, all the procedures I've read all say to have the weight of the car on the tires before final tightening the bolts. Do all fasteners need to wait for this? But I guess I could drive it to the shop to have that done? Don't see me crawling under to do the final torquing.. TIA! Larry. On 07/25/2018 7:00 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote: I suspect that it will be fine. When the rear subframe mounts get dead rubber, you will know it. The car get squirrelly going over RR tracks, but is normal most of the time. Until it gets squirrelly going over tracks, I'd not worry about it, and even thern you probably have 1-5 years before you need to worry. Drive it. Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Got a question regarding my rusted connection over the rear suspension: I'm thinking that if I go through with replacing the wheel bearing carrier, maybe I can just ignore the rusty connection and drive? After all, very few similar problems have been found but granted it's not a problem to get noticed unless the shop uses a prybar to pry between the connection. Otherwise it's like rust in most other cases, it just does its thing. I haven't heard of any sounds or strange handling characteristics when these connections get rusty and as long as we don't race around corners we'll probably forget the problem is there. Also, hopefully I can eventually either weld a sandwich of metal above and below the rusted area and re--bolt the connection or find a shop to do it if my health never improves to allow me to get under the car again. Am I being dangerous in my thoughts? I think I freaked out when the shop told me the connection between the rear susp and chassis was rusted. Plus I like everything to work as it should Thanks Guys, LarryT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
I suspect that it will be fine. When the rear subframe mounts get dead rubber, you will know it. The car get squirrelly going over RR tracks, but is normal most of the time. Until it gets squirrelly going over tracks, I'd not worry about it, and even thern you probably have 1-5 years before you need to worry. Drive it. Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Got a question regarding my rusted connection over the rear suspension: I'm thinking that if I go through with replacing the wheel bearing carrier, maybe I can just ignore the rusty connection and drive? After all, very few similar problems have been found but granted it's not a problem to get noticed unless the shop uses a prybar to pry between the connection. Otherwise it's like rust in most other cases, it just does its thing. I haven't heard of any sounds or strange handling characteristics when these connections get rusty and as long as we don't race around corners we'll probably forget the problem is there. Also, hopefully I can eventually either weld a sandwich of metal above and below the rusted area and re--bolt the connection or find a shop to do it if my health never improves to allow me to get under the car again. Am I being dangerous in my thoughts? I think I freaked out when the shop told me the connection between the rear susp and chassis was rusted. Plus I like everything to work as it should Thanks Guys, LarryT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Got a question regarding my rusted connection over the rear suspension: I'm thinking that if I go through with replacing the wheel bearing carrier, maybe I can just ignore the rusty connection and drive? After all, very few similar problems have been found but granted it's not a problem to get noticed unless the shop uses a prybar to pry between the connection. Otherwise it's like rust in most other cases, it just does its thing. I haven't heard of any sounds or strange handling characteristics when these connections get rusty and as long as we don't race around corners we'll probably forget the problem is there. Also, hopefully I can eventually either weld a sandwich of metal above and below the rusted area and re--bolt the connection or find a shop to do it if my health never improves to allow me to get under the car again. Am I being dangerous in my thoughts? I think I freaked out when the shop told me the connection between the rear susp and chassis was rusted. Plus I like everything to work as it should Thanks Guys, LarryT ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
I couldn't find my old 1980s JC Whitney ball joint press so I bought a new Gearwrench one for the ball joints on the ML. The Gearwrench was better quality, and about the same $$ that I paid for the other one 30 years ago. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE As it turned out, I never used it. ALL of the ball joint studs started turning with the nuts, making it a real hassle to get the nuts the rest of the way off. (basically had to use a jack and the weight of the car to hold the studs in the tapers so I could unscrew the nuts) If you can buy a used hub assembly, then you have to take the axle nut off (36mm on my ML), thump the axle with a sledge until it slides on the splines, take the brakes off (the drum parking brake might be a hassle) separate the ball joints and swap the hub assemblies. Or find an indy with the on-the car press or one which can do it on a bench press and buy a new bearing, or just pay the dealer $500 or whatever they want to do the job. On my ML, diagnosis was easy. It was making an increasingly bad noise for about 50 miles, I put it on a hoist, and my left rear wheel had 1/4" of slop in it. Then I was 100% sure I needed a wheel bearing. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Hi Mitch! That doesn't sound like a fun way to spend a weekend! BTW, what you described is very much what I saw the mechanics doing in the videos - they were using a foreign language I didn't recognize but it may have been German. The sound was pretty poor. They also used a shop made slide tool which had 2, 3' long legs that bolted behind the hub - then a large sledge was used to whack away at the other end (non-hub end) until it pulled loose. The BMW guy also used a bearing collar behind the hub to press the hub off using lug bolts to push thru the flange against the collar slowly pulling the hub away from the carrier. After watching the various videos I became more familiar with what I might need do! :-) I must admit though, I'm having 2nd thoughts... I get around pretty good with my walker but my adult son is not mechanically inclined (at all) and my wife has good intentions but lacks the weight needed to loosen bolts, etc. But if I can get close to things while in my chair, I should be able to do the job. I have plenty of tools to help along the way - and a large group of knowledgeable friends to tell me how to work around a problem. wink, wink - Thanks to all - LarryT On 07/21/2018 2:31 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: On July 21, 2018 at 1:22 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway job? BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics doing the work probably needed to go home for some rest! :-) There's an expensive tool (about $400 for the Chinese copy, I forget what the real one costs) that makes the job easy-peasy. I saw a youtube video of the job done the right way last winter. I did a ML (W163) rear wheel bearing ($40 Timken bearing) without the tool. Had to undo some ball joints to take the axle out. Then used a BIG (10lb I believe) slide hammer bolted to the hub flange to yank it out of the bearing. Took a lot of hammering to get it out after I put the ball joints back together to hold the knuckle in place. Then a big set of snap ring pliers to get the bearing retaining ring out. Then I used the discs from a bearing/seal driving kit with a long bolt/nut to push the old bearing out and drove the new bearing in with a combination of the outer shell from the old bearing and the bolt/disc setup. Not a job I look forward to doing again, but I did buy two of the bearings so I have one on hand in case another one fails. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
We pull the carrier and use a press. Much faster, and I've never been able to get a hub out with a slide hammer. In my case they had been in there for 28 years. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
> On July 21, 2018 at 1:22 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes > wrote: > > Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway > job? BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and > similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics > doing the work probably needed to go home for some rest! :-) There's an expensive tool (about $400 for the Chinese copy, I forget what the real one costs) that makes the job easy-peasy. I saw a youtube video of the job done the right way last winter. I did a ML (W163) rear wheel bearing ($40 Timken bearing) without the tool. Had to undo some ball joints to take the axle out. Then used a BIG (10lb I believe) slide hammer bolted to the hub flange to yank it out of the bearing. Took a lot of hammering to get it out after I put the ball joints back together to hold the knuckle in place. Then a big set of snap ring pliers to get the bearing retaining ring out. Then I used the discs from a bearing/seal driving kit with a long bolt/nut to push the old bearing out and drove the new bearing in with a combination of the outer shell from the old bearing and the bolt/disc setup. Not a job I look forward to doing again, but I did buy two of the bearings so I have one on hand in case another one fails. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks, BTW, I was browsing YouTube videos and came across this R Whl Brg R for a BMW - after watching I thought it was very much like the W124. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4PK1jXhppE Some of the fasteners are different and it doesn't have the 5 point rear deal like a 124 but the axle bearings look very similar. Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway job? BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics doing the work probably needed to go home for some rest! :-) Anyway, Larry On 07/21/2018 9:56 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: You can check them in place -- jack up the car so you can reach the axle and rotate the shaft. If either end moves in relation to the joint, it's bad. They can go bad like my Golf though, and grind. You'd probably have to pull it to see if it's the wheel bearing or the axle joint unless it's bad enough the cause the wheel to have excess play on the bearing. I suspect you will have to buy the whole axle, and do not get a "rebuilt" one unless you know for certain they put NEW joints on it. The wheel bearing is like any other, grinding or thumping on rotation is a bad one. They don't go very often, they are quite robust, but I have had a couple go on my since 1980. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
You can check them in place -- jack up the car so you can reach the axle and rotate the shaft. If either end moves in relation to the joint, it's bad. They can go bad like my Golf though, and grind. You'd probably have to pull it to see if it's the wheel bearing or the axle joint unless it's bad enough the cause the wheel to have excess play on the bearing. I suspect you will have to buy the whole axle, and do not get a "rebuilt" one unless you know for certain they put NEW joints on it. The wheel bearing is like any other, grinding or thumping on rotation is a bad one. They don't go very often, they are quite robust, but I have had a couple go on my since 1980. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Based on your description of the noises I am inclined to be confident the outer bearing is bad - we get a loud growling noise starting at 45mph or so and getting worse and speed increases. But I don't recall any vibrations on accel / decel or clunks as you describe. The CV joint is a question though - are the axles sold as complete units with new CVs at each end? Never mind - I can look on Pelican, etc. I have changed Axle shafts on FWD cars when the CVs started clicking - the old shaft popped out and the new one popped in - is it the same with W124? Also, let's say I get the carriers off and it's not damaged so it can't be reused. If I rotate the axle shaft will that tell me anything about the condition of the CVs? Larry On 07/21/2018 8:59 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: A bad bearing can damage the wheel carrier, or at least "grow" enough to be very difficult to get out -- had that happen a time or two. Basically the bearing is a double row ball bearing with one side free (so it can be assembled) -- the axle nut holds it together. The nub is pressed into the center, and unless you've stripped a bolt hole or it's badly corroded, it's perfectly re-usable. Check the axle for a bad CV joint before condemning the bearing though -- if there is ANY rotational play between joints and shaft one end or the other is shot. Typically the inner end, which is a tripod design, goes long before the outer Rzeppa joint does, but they can both go bad. The inner causes vibration on acceleration and/or deceleration and clunks when you put it in gear, the outer usually starts grinding with the noise most noticable at speeds around 50-60 mph. I'm replacing an axle in the Golf this weekend for that reason -- the inner Rzeppa is grinding. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
A bad bearing can damage the wheel carrier, or at least "grow" enough to be very difficult to get out -- had that happen a time or two. Basically the bearing is a double row ball bearing with one side free (so it can be assembled) -- the axle nut holds it together. The nub is pressed into the center, and unless you've stripped a bolt hole or it's badly corroded, it's perfectly re-usable. Check the axle for a bad CV joint before condemning the bearing though -- if there is ANY rotational play between joints and shaft one end or the other is shot. Typically the inner end, which is a tripod design, goes long before the outer Rzeppa joint does, but they can both go bad. The inner causes vibration on acceleration and/or deceleration and clunks when you put it in gear, the outer usually starts grinding with the noise most noticable at speeds around 50-60 mph. I'm replacing an axle in the Golf this weekend for that reason -- the inner Rzeppa is grinding. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks Peter! I need to look at the WSM again - I'm not understanding the hub completely. Or I could pull a wheel and take a look - might be worth the time because I find the idea of replacing the carrier w/a used one interesting. Then again, I'm not sure I would gain anything by using a Used carrier Vs removing mine, taking it to a shop and having them R the bearing then I replace the carrier. That 2nd option may simplify things as it insures the part I have fits. My bearing was really making a lot of noise - I have been assuming the bearing would absorb all the damage leaving the carrier undamaged - is that a realistic assumption? Yeah, I recall seeing the Nm for that 30mm nut - over 200 IIRC. Larry On 07/20/2018 6:37 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: The bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier, and then the hub is pressed into the center of the bearing. Don't want you to end up with half of what you need, eh? Three parts there. The axle does indeed fit on a spline through the hub. It also holds the bearing together, so the nut needs to be tightened correctly. Failed to do that once and had to repeat the job. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
The bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier, and then the hub is pressed into the center of the bearing. Don't want you to end up with half of what you need, eh? Three parts there. The axle does indeed fit on a spline through the hub. It also holds the bearing together, so the nut needs to be tightened correctly. Failed to do that once and had to repeat the job. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Hi Peter, just to be sure I understand what you are saying when you wrote, "not just the hub that presses into the bearing." - I thought the bearing presses into the hub, not the other way around? Then the axle slides thru the center of the bearing..., no? I think it is easy for me to stumble over the various names these parts seem to have... Thanks, Larry On 07/16/2018 4:31 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: Make sure it's the complete wheel carrier, not just the hub that presses into the bearing. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Max's comment about ASR helps because I don't have ASR - only ABS - so hopefully that's not going to be a concern. But it looks like I should try to find parts from cars close in manufacture to mine to minimize problems and to state my 91 300D is non ASR. I've been looking at Car-Part.com list of parts and they have a listing for Knee (see also Strut Assy) so I tried searing for that. In the end it will take one on one talking to the junk yard guy on the phone if I can get them. Our local yard never answers the phone - they say come look and see if we have what you need. ;-^ OK guys, my local shop for state insp is booked til next week but I will go then and try to get a photo of the underside - LarryT On 07/17/2018 8:41 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: On July 17, 2018 at 8:29 AM Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Hmmm, so a much newer part might fit? When I look at Car-part.com, for the rear knuckle they give me parts ranging from a 1984 W201 to 1994 R129/W124/W202. The newest right rear knuckles available in the US that car-part thinks will fit a 1991 300D are from 1994. Maybe they went to 4 channel ABS or made some other change in 1995? If I search for a 1995 E300D, the results range from 1995 124/129/202 to 2000 C class. It seems a bit odd, because I thought a 1994 W124 was identical to a 1995 W124. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks Max - very helpful! On 07/17/2018 8:40 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote: Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, with third sensor at input to differential. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
I can't answer that, I'd have to look at the EPC to figure that out. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On July 17, 2018 8:45:08 PM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: > >> On July 17, 2018 at 8:40 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes > wrote: >> >> >> Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, >with third sensor at input to differential. > >Then why does Car-Part's exchange list 1995 rear knuckles as different >from 1986-1994? > >Mitch. > >___ >http://www.okiebenz.com > >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
> On July 17, 2018 at 8:40 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes > wrote: > > > Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, with > third sensor at input to differential. Then why does Car-Part's exchange list 1995 rear knuckles as different from 1986-1994? Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, with third sensor at input to differential. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
yes, the gasser and Diesel rear axle carrier are the same. Wagons have a heavier duty bearing, I was told. Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Wow! They have a hub for a 300E for only $70 which I assume would be the same as the one I need for my 300D? This is the 1st time I have contacted Car-Part.com but it won't be the last. Thanks again. LarryT 91 300D 2.5T ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
> On July 17, 2018 at 8:29 AM Larry Turner via Mercedes > wrote: > > > Hmmm, so a much newer part might fit? When I look at Car-part.com, for the rear knuckle they give me parts ranging from a 1984 W201 to 1994 R129/W124/W202. The newest right rear knuckles available in the US that car-part thinks will fit a 1991 300D are from 1994. Maybe they went to 4 channel ABS or made some other change in 1995? If I search for a 1995 E300D, the results range from 1995 124/129/202 to 2000 C class. It seems a bit odd, because I thought a 1994 W124 was identical to a 1995 W124. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Hmmm, so a much newer part might fit? And I could (maybe) use more modern links? That'll take some extensive research to do that, but I agree completely that MB designed the W124 with future fit in mind. Having said that, the rear wheel carrier (which I have been calling it) is pretty basic and should be the same across all model lines. Sedans / sedans and wagons / wagons although I assume there's a certain amount of cross over even between sedans/wagons but I think they're rare. You're given me a lot to consider Thanks! Larry On 07/17/2018 8:10 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: The axle in the wagon is larger diameter than the sedan, but I think that's the only difference. And I suspect it's the same part in use today, MB is good at designing properly and then using common parts for a very long time. I think the rear suspension is exactly the same on current production as on the W124 with the exception of better links and different screws. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Well, my reference books have failed me. But if I inspect the high pressure lines going to/from the ABS controller under the hood it might tell me something, right? If I have tubing going to each wheel rather than 1 for the differential shaft I will know the answer I suspect. I recall the ABS device under the hood (near the PS reservoir) and will look at it to see what it will tell us. But this is important stuff for me to know before I buy a replacement hub/carrier (If I buy one). I hope to take the car to my local shop for a state inspection later today. Hopefully I can get them to let me take some photos of the rear under carriage. Thx again, Larry On 07/17/2018 7:14 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: Did the early W124 have W201 style 3 channel ABS with the ABS sensor on the differential input shaft? And does your 1991 have a sensor on each hub? Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
The axle in the wagon is larger diameter than the sedan, but I think that's the only difference. And I suspect it's the same part in use today, MB is good at designing properly and then using common parts for a very long time. I think the rear suspension is exactly the same on current production as on the W124 with the exception of better links and different screws. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Thanks for the questions, I think it does have a sensor at each hub but will have to confirm that... Not sure I woud consider my 91 to be a early 124 - maybe more a mid year? I have the Tech Data book I can check. But I'll find the answer ;-) LarryT On 07/17/2018 7:14 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote: Did the early W124 have W201 style 3 channel ABS with the ABS sensor on the differential input shaft? And does your 1991 have a sensor on each hub? Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Did the early W124 have W201 style 3 channel ABS with the ABS sensor on the differential input shaft? And does your 1991 have a sensor on each hub? Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Hi Peter, Thanks for that! BTW, I have found they are not consistent in the way they name their parts. But I will be sure to ask that is it the Wheel Carrier and try to get a photo of the part before I buy. I'm going to check EPC to see if there are any differences over the W124 years - I have ABS and I think that was one variety - even though I thought all the W124 came with ABS, Well, I guess all the post 1990 would have ABS as standard. That may be wrong, but I'll see what EPC tells me. Thanks again for the advice! LarryT 91 300D On 07/16/2018 4:31 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote: Make sure it's the complete wheel carrier, not just the hub that presses into the bearing. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Make sure it's the complete wheel carrier, not just the hub that presses into the bearing. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Wow! They have a hub for a 300E for only $70 which I assume would be the same as the one I need for my 300D? This is the 1st time I have contacted Car-Part.com but it won't be the last. Thanks again. LarryT 91 300D 2.5T On 07/14/2018 10:45 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote: car-part.com Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Hi Guys, for a change things are looking up. I tried to start the subject 300D and found the battery was dead and refused to take a charge. It was bought in 2014 and had almost 1000 CCA's but dead is dead. So I went into my garage (slowly as usual on my walker) ;-) and found the battery that had been in my 78 240D still had an acceptable amount of Volts in it so after a quick charge for good measure, I removed the old battery and installed the even older battery - it had been bought in 2010 and even after sitting in my garage for pushing 4 years (IIRC) it was "alive"! (As in "Young Frankenstein") Once connected it fired on the 1st compression stroke. It really amazed me! Even after not being started since late Dec 2017. The next step is to get a state inspection and while there I'll ask if I can take some photos of the supposed rust damage my Indy told me about. I can then post the photos and get your opinion. They're busy today so maybe Monday? Then, depending on what we find, I will want to repair the rear wheel bearing on the starboard (r) side. As suggested by those of you more knowledgeable than me, I am considering replacing the bearing/hub carrier completely and not going to the trouble of having the old bearing replaced (since I would still have to R the hub). So, to (finally) get to my point, does anyone have any spare right side hubs they would like to part with? Timing is not critical - we have the Explorer to drive for now. But I am hoping we can use the MB for everyday driving and save the Explorer for trips to the range. Anyone have one or know where I might find a hub? I have been putting out feelers to recyclers looking for hubs and only got one specific reply. Besides, I like options. ;-) Thanks gang! LarryT 91 300D 2.5T VIN: WDB.EB28D1MB.364746 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
car-part.com Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: Hi Guys, for a change things are looking up. I tried to start the subject 300D and found the battery was dead and refused to take a charge. It was bought in 2014 and had almost 1000 CCA's but dead is dead. So I went into my garage (slowly as usual on my walker) ;-) and found the battery that had been in my 78 240D still had an acceptable amount of Volts in it so after a quick charge for good measure, I removed the old battery and installed the even older battery - it had been bought in 2010 and even after sitting in my garage for pushing 4 years (IIRC) it was "alive"! (As in "Young Frankenstein") Once connected it fired on the 1st compression stroke. It really amazed me! Even after not being started since late Dec 2017. The next step is to get a state inspection and while there I'll ask if I can take some photos of the supposed rust damage my Indy told me about. I can then post the photos and get your opinion. They're busy today so maybe Monday? Then, depending on what we find, I will want to repair the rear wheel bearing on the starboard (r) side. As suggested by those of you more knowledgeable than me, I am considering replacing the bearing/hub carrier completely and not going to the trouble of having the old bearing replaced (since I would still have to R the hub). So, to (finally) get to my point, does anyone have any spare right side hubs they would like to part with? Timing is not critical - we have the Explorer to drive for now. But I am hoping we can use the MB for everyday driving and save the Explorer for trips to the range. Anyone have one or know where I might find a hub? I have been putting out feelers to recyclers looking for hubs and only got one specific reply. Besides, I like options. ;-) Thanks gang! LarryT 91 300D 2.5T VIN: WDB.EB28D1MB.364746 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
On Fri, 13 Jul 2018 20:21:17 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote: > Anyone have one or know where I might find a hub? I have been putting > out feelers to recyclers looking for hubs and only got one specific > reply. Besides, I like options. ;-) Check out http://car-part.com/ Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
Correct. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On July 13, 2018 8:34:17 PM EDT, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote: >That’s a 124? > >--FT > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.
That’s a 124? --FT Sent from iPhone > On Jul 13, 2018, at 8:21 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes > wrote: > > Hi Guys, for a change things are looking up. I tried to start the subject > 300D and found the battery was dead and refused to take a charge. It was > bought in 2014 and had almost 1000 CCA's but dead is dead. So I went into my > garage (slowly as usual on my walker) ;-) and found the battery that had been > in my 78 240D still had an acceptable amount of Volts in it so after a quick > charge for good measure, I removed the old battery and installed the even > older battery - it had been bought in 2010 and even after sitting in my > garage for pushing 4 years (IIRC) it was "alive"! (As in "Young > Frankenstein") Once connected it fired on the 1st compression stroke. It > really amazed me! Even after not being started since late Dec 2017. > > The next step is to get a state inspection and while there I'll ask if I can > take some photos of the supposed rust damage my Indy told me about. I can > then post the photos and get your opinion. They're busy today so maybe Monday? > > Then, depending on what we find, I will want to repair the rear wheel bearing > on the starboard (r) side. As suggested by those of you more knowledgeable > than me, I am considering replacing the bearing/hub carrier completely and > not going to the trouble of having the old bearing replaced (since I would > still have to R the hub). > > So, to (finally) get to my point, does anyone have any spare right side hubs > they would like to part with? Timing is not critical - we have the Explorer > to drive for now. But I am hoping we can use the MB for everyday driving and > save the Explorer for trips to the range. > > Anyone have one or know where I might find a hub? I have been putting out > feelers to recyclers looking for hubs and only got one specific reply. > Besides, I like options. ;-) > > Thanks gang! > > LarryT > > 91 300D 2.5T > > VIN: WDB.EB28D1MB.364746 > > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
