Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2014-02-10 Thread Larry T

did it work on the 107 with ABS?

Sincerely,
Larry

On 12/26/2013 9:55 AM, Dieselhead wrote:
Worked on 123 without and 126 with.  I am fixin ta do it on a 107 with 
ABS


Does the gravity (Issac Newton method is what we called it here in 
OK) work

with anti-lock brake systems? I was under the impression that it won't,
hence the need for a pressure bleeder (from either the top or the 
bottom).








--
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and 
taxes.

- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!


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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2014-02-10 Thread Dieselhead

did it work on the 107 with ABS?

Sincerely,
Larry


Didn't work on the 107 I worked on because the ABS unit was stuck. 
It was not because it was a 107.   It has worked on 123 and 126 and 
124s.  That includes every MB I ever worked on the brakes, other than 
110.  I just never tried it on a 110, not that it would not work.  I 
first tried it on my first SDL, maybe 10 years ago.


I'd never heard of it.  I just observed that the fluid ran out, so I 
surmised that the new fluid might run in.  It did, so it saved some 
effort on bleeding and SWMBO was no longer a good brake bleeding 
partner.


I was taught the only way to bleed brakes is the 2 man method.

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2014-02-10 Thread Curt Raymond
I have learned that the only way to bleed brakes is to borrow Fred's pressure 
bleeder. Easiest thing in the world.

Actually next time I'll probably buy my own, it'll save on transportation...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 07:46:44 -0600
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a
Message-ID: a0624080ecf1e87838fdb@[192.168.1.52]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed


I was taught the only way to bleed brakes is the 2 man method.
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2014-02-10 Thread Frederick Moir
Curt.
Transportation?
In your fuel sipping diesel VW? (Obligatory diesel content).
Next time YOU pay for breakfast!
 
Fred Moir 
Lynn MA 
Diesel preferred.



 From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a
 

I have learned that the only way to bleed brakes is to borrow Fred's pressure 
bleeder. Easiest thing in the world.

Actually next time I'll probably buy my own, it'll save on transportation...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-26 Thread Dan Penoff
I use a MityVac and one of those plastic siphon jars with the dip tube in it. 
Works for me and makes it easy to do with minimal mess.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Dec 25, 2013, at 2:53 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 
 That brake bleeder that was discussed some years ago uses a flaps cap with an 
 air fitting and low pressure to push the fluid from the reservoir using your 
 air compressor.  That would push it more quickly.  I use a mityvac to suck it 
 out, kinda messy but works.
 
 --R (sent from my miniPad)
 
 On Dec 25, 2013, at 7:58 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 *Great idea!!  I have a couple of spare fuel pumps (MGB which are nominally 
 3-5psi) that should do the job and I may add a T and do both wheels on one 
 axle at a time.   It may be more trouble than it's worth as watching the MC 
 will become even more critical.   i guess I could make a push button on/off 
 switch with long wires so i could watch the MC and turn the pump on and off 
 as needed**..**
 **
 **Thanks for the suggestion ---  I may try this...   i keep thinking the 
 inlet and outlet on the FP are a lot larger than the bleeder so I may **need 
 a adapter ...*
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry
 
 On 12/25/2013 1:13 PM, G Mann wrote:
 I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.
 
 Purchase a 12 volt fuel pump, Low pressure pump that does 10 psi or less
 will work fine.  Purchase some clear poly tubing, the semi soft kind, that
 will fit over the brake bleeder nicely.  Connect that line to the 12v fuel
 pump intake port, connect some more of same line to the output side of
 pump. Place output hose in an empty soda bottle.
 
 Open brake master cap. Open bleed valve [Start at the longest line]. Have
 supply of fresh fluid handy.  Turn on pump and watch the master cylinder
 reservoir level go down. When the reservoir level gets to bottom 1/4 , add
 clean fluid and pump more while watching for clean fluid to come out of
 bleed port.  When you get clean fluid, stop the pump and close the bleed
 port.  Refill the master and move to the next longest line.
 
 Repeat for each wheel, always keeping the master reservoir with a good
 supply of clean fluid.
 
 Total time to bleed all 4 wheels and replace the total fluid with fresh is
 usually less than 15 minutes.
 
 It helps if all 4 wheels are off the ground and car in firmly on jack
 stands.
 
 As always, be safe.   12 volt, low end fuel pump online cost was less than
 $25. That pump is a dedicated brake bleed pump only now.  When I'm all
 done, I flush the pump with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner available
 at any hardware].  Dispose of the used brake fluid properly.. save the baby
 seals and the whales.. as always.
 
 Grant...
 
 
 On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hi Gang -
I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and RR the
 Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.
 
2 questions:
 
 1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
   forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
 2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
   without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
   have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
   so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
   the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.
 
 Thanks Guys!
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry
 
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-26 Thread Dieselhead

Worked on 123 without and 126 with.  I am fixin ta do it on a 107 with ABS


Does the gravity (Issac Newton method is what we called it here in OK) work
with anti-lock brake systems? I was under the impression that it won't,
hence the need for a pressure bleeder (from either the top or the bottom).







--
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!


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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-26 Thread Mountain Man
Larry wrote:
 What brand is that one?

It is from the land of Lucas, UK and is named Gunnison's Eezi-Bleed.
I use the Eezi-Bleed also.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread Fmiser
 Larry wrote:
 
  1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but
 some forums have made that sound like a poor choice.

Don't use DOT3, as that is the cause of swollen hoses that begin to
act as check valves. 

DOT4 is the right stuff - but there is some DOT3/4 on the market
that I don't trust.  I have used a Valvoline DOT4 for a decade or
so.

DOT5 is a different beast all together.  Non-compatible with DOT3
or DOT4.  DOT5e is a super-DOT4 that is compatible with with DOT3
and DOT4 - but I don't know how they interact with Mercedes rubber
parts.

  2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones
 in without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?

Let the fluid run out.  I have gravity bleed system by just opening
the bleeder.  Put grease or anti-seize on the threads.  I then like
to wash off the leaked out brake fluid, then spray the area with a
heavy spray oil like LPS3.  Finally I coat the whole bleeder with
grease to keep the dirt and water out.

--Philip


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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread Larry T
Thanks to all who replied!   I now know - DOT4 and gravity are my 
friends ;-)


Merry Christmas -

Sincerely,
Larry

On 12/25/2013 2:58 AM, Fmiser wrote:

Larry wrote:

  1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but
some forums have made that sound like a poor choice.

Don't use DOT3, as that is the cause of swollen hoses that begin to
act as check valves.

DOT4 is the right stuff - but there is some DOT3/4 on the market
that I don't trust.  I have used a Valvoline DOT4 for a decade or
so.

DOT5 is a different beast all together.  Non-compatible with DOT3
or DOT4.  DOT5e is a super-DOT4 that is compatible with with DOT3
and DOT4 - but I don't know how they interact with Mercedes rubber
parts.


  2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones
in without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?

Let the fluid run out.  I have gravity bleed system by just opening
the bleeder.  Put grease or anti-seize on the threads.  I then like
to wash off the leaked out brake fluid, then spray the area with a
heavy spray oil like LPS3.  Finally I coat the whole bleeder with
grease to keep the dirt and water out.

--Philip


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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread Dieselhead

Thanks to all who replied!   I now know - DOT4 and gravity are my friends ;-)

Merry Christmas -

Sincerely,
Larry



I have successfully gravity bled brakes on 126 and 123.  About to do 
it on 107.  Just open the bleeders, go do somethin else and let it 
drain.   Come back later,  when the lines are empty. Then fill the 
master and wait for fluid to run out.  close each bleeder when fluid 
if running out.


Simple, but time consuming.

Works with abs.

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-25 Thread G Mann
I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.

Purchase a 12 volt fuel pump, Low pressure pump that does 10 psi or less
will work fine.  Purchase some clear poly tubing, the semi soft kind, that
will fit over the brake bleeder nicely.  Connect that line to the 12v fuel
pump intake port, connect some more of same line to the output side of
pump. Place output hose in an empty soda bottle.

Open brake master cap. Open bleed valve [Start at the longest line]. Have
supply of fresh fluid handy.  Turn on pump and watch the master cylinder
reservoir level go down. When the reservoir level gets to bottom 1/4 , add
clean fluid and pump more while watching for clean fluid to come out of
bleed port.  When you get clean fluid, stop the pump and close the bleed
port.  Refill the master and move to the next longest line.

Repeat for each wheel, always keeping the master reservoir with a good
supply of clean fluid.

Total time to bleed all 4 wheels and replace the total fluid with fresh is
usually less than 15 minutes.

It helps if all 4 wheels are off the ground and car in firmly on jack
stands.

As always, be safe.   12 volt, low end fuel pump online cost was less than
$25. That pump is a dedicated brake bleed pump only now.  When I'm all
done, I flush the pump with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner available
at any hardware].  Dispose of the used brake fluid properly.. save the baby
seals and the whales.. as always.

Grant...


On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 Hi Gang -
 I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and RR the
 Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.

 2 questions:

 1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
 2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.

 Thanks Guys!

  Sincerely,
 Larry

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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread dseretakis
Huh. This is interesting. Can all bleeder screws be open and draining at the 
same time?

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 25, 2013, at 9:42 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks to all who replied!   I now know - DOT4 and gravity are my friends ;-)
 
 Merry Christmas -
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry
 
 
 I have successfully gravity bled brakes on 126 and 123.  About to do it on 
 107.  Just open the bleeders, go do somethin else and let it drain.   Come 
 back later,  when the lines are empty. Then fill the master and wait for 
 fluid to run out.  close each bleeder when fluid if running out.
 
 Simple, but time consuming.
 
 Works with abs.
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-25 Thread Larry T
*Great idea!!  I have a couple of spare fuel pumps (MGB which are 
nominally 3-5psi) that should do the job and I may add a T and do both 
wheels on one axle at a time.   It may be more trouble than it's worth 
as watching the MC will become even more critical.   i guess I could 
make a push button on/off switch with long wires so i could watch the MC 
and turn the pump on and off as needed**..**

**
**Thanks for the suggestion ---  I may try this...   i keep thinking the 
inlet and outlet on the FP are a lot larger than the bleeder so I may 
**need a adapter ...*


Sincerely,
Larry

On 12/25/2013 1:13 PM, G Mann wrote:

I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.

Purchase a 12 volt fuel pump, Low pressure pump that does 10 psi or less
will work fine.  Purchase some clear poly tubing, the semi soft kind, that
will fit over the brake bleeder nicely.  Connect that line to the 12v fuel
pump intake port, connect some more of same line to the output side of
pump. Place output hose in an empty soda bottle.

Open brake master cap. Open bleed valve [Start at the longest line]. Have
supply of fresh fluid handy.  Turn on pump and watch the master cylinder
reservoir level go down. When the reservoir level gets to bottom 1/4 , add
clean fluid and pump more while watching for clean fluid to come out of
bleed port.  When you get clean fluid, stop the pump and close the bleed
port.  Refill the master and move to the next longest line.

Repeat for each wheel, always keeping the master reservoir with a good
supply of clean fluid.

Total time to bleed all 4 wheels and replace the total fluid with fresh is
usually less than 15 minutes.

It helps if all 4 wheels are off the ground and car in firmly on jack
stands.

As always, be safe.   12 volt, low end fuel pump online cost was less than
$25. That pump is a dedicated brake bleed pump only now.  When I'm all
done, I flush the pump with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner available
at any hardware].  Dispose of the used brake fluid properly.. save the baby
seals and the whales.. as always.

Grant...


On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:


Hi Gang -
 I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and RR the
Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.

 2 questions:

1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.

Thanks Guys!

  Sincerely,
Larry

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread Larry T
Sounds like a great way to bleed brakes on a little used car when in no 
hurry to put it on the road.


Sincerely,
Larry

On 12/25/2013 9:42 AM, Dieselhead wrote:
Thanks to all who replied!   I now know - DOT4 and gravity are my 
friends ;-)


Merry Christmas -

Sincerely,
Larry



I have successfully gravity bled brakes on 126 and 123.  About to do 
it on 107.  Just open the bleeders, go do somethin else and let it 
drain.   Come back later,  when the lines are empty. Then fill the 
master and wait for fluid to run out.  close each bleeder when fluid 
if running out.


Simple, but time consuming.

Works with abs.

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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-25 Thread Curt Raymond
I dunno Grant, the last time I did brake work I borrowed (belatedly) Fred's 
power bleeder. It hooks to a front tire and has a reservoir of brake fluid. 
Attach to the MC, attach to tire which pressurizes the system forcing fluid 
into the MC. Open brake bleeder, wait until new fluid comes out, close. Move to 
next bleeder and repeat.

Super simple. Next time I need brake work I intend to buy one.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:13:44 -0700
From: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal
Message-ID:
    CANTuLYhr5HkfdSAeAb+e4=mmcku-za45xp7jznxne-b8f55...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-25 Thread Larry T

What brand is that one?

Sincerely,
Larry

On 12/25/2013 4:52 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

I dunno Grant, the last time I did brake work I borrowed (belatedly) Fred's 
power bleeder. It hooks to a front tire and has a reservoir of brake fluid. 
Attach to the MC, attach to tire which pressurizes the system forcing fluid 
into the MC. Open brake bleeder, wait until new fluid comes out, close. Move to 
next bleeder and repeat.

Super simple. Next time I need brake work I intend to buy one.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:13:44 -0700
From: G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal
Message-ID:
 CANTuLYhr5HkfdSAeAb+e4=mmcku-za45xp7jznxne-b8f55...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread OK Don
Does the gravity (Issac Newton method is what we called it here in OK) work
with anti-lock brake systems? I was under the impression that it won't,
hence the need for a pressure bleeder (from either the top or the bottom).





-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal dave3u9a

2013-12-25 Thread Scott Ritchey
I don't know for sure.  I always heard that ABS systems required a pressure
bleeder.

Scott 

-Original Message-
From: OK Don
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 10:54 PM


Does the gravity (Issac Newton method is what we called it here in OK) work
with anti-lock brake systems? I was under the impression that it won't,
hence the need for a pressure bleeder (from either the top or the bottom).



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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-25 Thread Rich Thomas
That brake bleeder that was discussed some years ago uses a flaps cap with an 
air fitting and low pressure to push the fluid from the reservoir using your 
air compressor.  That would push it more quickly.  I use a mityvac to suck it 
out, kinda messy but works.

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Dec 25, 2013, at 7:58 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

*Great idea!!  I have a couple of spare fuel pumps (MGB which are nominally 
3-5psi) that should do the job and I may add a T and do both wheels on one axle 
at a time.   It may be more trouble than it's worth as watching the MC will 
become even more critical.   i guess I could make a push button on/off switch 
with long wires so i could watch the MC and turn the pump on and off as 
needed**..**
**
**Thanks for the suggestion ---  I may try this...   i keep thinking the inlet 
and outlet on the FP are a lot larger than the bleeder so I may **need a 
adapter ...*

Sincerely,
Larry

 On 12/25/2013 1:13 PM, G Mann wrote:
 I cheat because it's a better, easier way to change brake fluid.
 
 Purchase a 12 volt fuel pump, Low pressure pump that does 10 psi or less
 will work fine.  Purchase some clear poly tubing, the semi soft kind, that
 will fit over the brake bleeder nicely.  Connect that line to the 12v fuel
 pump intake port, connect some more of same line to the output side of
 pump. Place output hose in an empty soda bottle.
 
 Open brake master cap. Open bleed valve [Start at the longest line]. Have
 supply of fresh fluid handy.  Turn on pump and watch the master cylinder
 reservoir level go down. When the reservoir level gets to bottom 1/4 , add
 clean fluid and pump more while watching for clean fluid to come out of
 bleed port.  When you get clean fluid, stop the pump and close the bleed
 port.  Refill the master and move to the next longest line.
 
 Repeat for each wheel, always keeping the master reservoir with a good
 supply of clean fluid.
 
 Total time to bleed all 4 wheels and replace the total fluid with fresh is
 usually less than 15 minutes.
 
 It helps if all 4 wheels are off the ground and car in firmly on jack
 stands.
 
 As always, be safe.   12 volt, low end fuel pump online cost was less than
 $25. That pump is a dedicated brake bleed pump only now.  When I'm all
 done, I flush the pump with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner available
 at any hardware].  Dispose of the used brake fluid properly.. save the baby
 seals and the whales.. as always.
 
 Grant...
 
 
 On Tue, Dec 24, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hi Gang -
 I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and RR the
 Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.
 
 2 questions:
 
 1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
 2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.
 
 Thanks Guys!
 
  Sincerely,
 Larry
 
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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-24 Thread Dieselhead

DOT 4.  Do NOT use DOT 5.  DOT 3 and 4 are compatible.  DOT 5 isn't.


DOT3 will swell the brake hoses shut.  Not a 
happy day.  DOT 3 sucks  DONT USE DOT3 ever in 
any german machine.


Good stuff is Castrol GT/LMA brake fluid, or the 
ATE stuff, if you can find it, or MB $juice$ from 
the stealership.


BEWARE!  Flaps are now selling synthetic DOT3/4. 
I have no data about that stuff, so I assume it 
is as bad as DOT3.  It is neither DOT 3 nor DOT4.



There is a DOT5e that is compatible with DOT3 and 
Dot 4.  I think it is a synDot3/4 with a higher 
boiling point.  Again, until there is some data, 
I assume it is not compatible with MB.


True DOT5 (Silicone) brake fluid may be used in 
80s vintage MBs if you do it right.  That 
involves flushing the system to get all the DOT4 
stuff out.  I did  it by multiple bleeding until 
I no longer found the bubbles of DOT 4 mixed with 
the DOT 5 that you flush out.A good time to 
make the switch is if you need a new master cyl 
anyway.


True DOT5 is NOT COMPATIBLE with DOT3 or DOT 4 or DOT5e.

DOT 5 is good stuff and MB components are 
compatible with it.  DOT 5 has a higher boiling 
point than DOT 3 Or DOT 4.  It is not as 
hygroscopic as DOT3 or DOT 4.


Brake fluids have gotten a lot more confused in 
the last few years with this DOT3/4 and DOT 5e 
synthetics.


I found an independent flaps today that has 4 
QUARTS of castrol GT/LMA DOT4 today.  I bought 2 
qts.  I will be changing out brake hoses on one 
car in the next few days.  The other qt, I will 
take home.


Oreally, advance, and autozoña dont have it. 
Oreally is the only one that has a DOT4 .  (in 
their haus-brand)


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Re: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

2013-12-24 Thread Scott Ritchey

DOT 4.  Do NOT use DOT 5.  DOT 3 and 4 are compatible.  DOT 5 isn't.

Just unscrew the bleeder with a drip pan below.  Only a little fluid will
leak before you get the new one started.  Wipe and excess odd the caliper
and tire when you are done.  Gravity should keep air out of the system.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Larry T
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 8:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] re Brake Bleeder Valve removal

Hi Gang -
 I have the stuff gathered to change my bleeder valves and RR the 
Brake fluid - well everything but the time and the brake fluid.

 2 questions:

 1.  What DOT BF Should I use?  I used to use DOT 4 but some
forums have made that sound like a poor choice.
 2.  How can I remove the old valves and put the new ones in
without losing lots of fluid or letting sir into the system?   Some
have suggested using a short pipe to put between the seat and pedal
so the pedal is slightly depressed.  does that prevent air entering
the system?   Not sure I'll have the time to finish the job at one time.

Thanks Guys!

  
Sincerely,
Larry

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