Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

2016-12-27 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Try a wrench from a bike shop.  They're very thin...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> The plastic piece is removable but only after you take the banjo off.   
> Things were a little seized even after lots and lots of penetrating spray – 
> which made things a little harder. Can’t use locking pliers to put it 
> back on though since they basically wreck the banjo.
>  
> Holland may be onto something with the ‘crow’s foot socket’ but it would need 
> to be long and thin to get in there.   If I can’t find one,  I’ll look into 
> grinding down cheap open wrench.
>  
> 
>  
> -Larry
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Chad Rebuck
> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:24 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
>  
> Isn't that plastic wiring connector piece removable? And for a thin wrench I 
> would just buy a cheaper one at Harbor Freight and grind it down but I don't 
> recall using anything special either. I do remember it was a pain to get 
> those banjo bolts loose though.
>  
> On Dec 27, 2016 11:55 AM, "Holland Phillips"  
> wrote:
> After seeing the pics, it occurred to me that possibly a "crows foot" socket 
> on the appropriate extension might be helpful? Just a thought. I replaced 
> both the pumps on my '92, but don't recall which tools were required, which 
> usually means it wasn't a big deal. 
>  
> On Dec 27, 2016 08:46, Larry Velez  wrote:
> This slim adjustable wrench was pretty much useless,   they don’t fit under 
> the plastic piece that holds the wiring connector.   I ended up using locking 
> pliers on the already destroyed banjo tube but would rather have a tool that 
> actually fits in here for re-assembly.  I’ll keep looking for long thin open 
> end wrenches.
> 
> (this is my old one and I have a new pump and will be ordering a new check 
> valve.  Just wanted to clean all this old stuff up and keep them as spares 
> for future use if needed in a bind.)
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: Larry Velez 
> Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:04 PM
> To: 'mk2-16v@googlegroups.com' 
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
> 
>  
> 
> Just spoke to AutoHauz,  they tell me that 1583386514 is the correct part 
> number and while it looks like the one with the washer is also correct – they 
> could not confirm that in their system as compatible with a 91 GTI 16V.
> 
>  
> 
> Maybe you have a different year?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: Larry Velez 
> Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2016 2:00 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks for the part number confirmation Steven.  I will double check with 
> AutohauzAZ what the difference is between 1583386514 and 1587010532 – it is 
> possible they are the same part but one comes with washers.
> 
>  
> 
> I also ordered this thin wrench for getting this damn thing off:  
> https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8SWCB-Adjustable-WideAzz-Opening/dp/B00VBPY91O/
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Steven Arguello
> Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2016 11:39 AM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?
> 
>  
> 
> This is what I bought from AutohausAZ BUT never installed so not sure if it's 
> the right one. 
> 
> 
> 11587010532Fuel Pump Check Valve
> 171044Fuel Filter; 172x89mm; 12mm Inlet x 14mm Outlet
> 
> 
> On Dec 22, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Hey 16Vers,
> 
>  
> 
> Does anyone have the correct part number for the fuel pump check valve for a 
> 91 GTI 16V?
> 
> Looking to buy a new one to replace my very old and cruddy one.
> 
> While I am at it,  what tool do you all use to get to that nut that is 
> obscured by the plastic housing?  A narrow adjustable wrench or something 
> better?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Larry
> 
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Re: [mk2-16v] wheel dollys

2016-07-29 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I've been kinda looking for a 2l 16v GTi, if any of you guys is thinking of 
selling.  Not really a GLi kinda guy Chad.

Sent from my iPhone

> 
>  
> 
> On Friday, July 29, 2016 12:26 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:
>  
> 
> I'm looking for a way to move/rotate my 16v gli around in my garage to store 
> and work on it.  Came across these wheel dollys on amazon that have mostly 
> good reviews.
>  
> https://www.amazon.com/Pentagon-Tools-5060-Tire-Skates/dp/B000UAGDTC/ref=cm_wl_huc_item
>  
> The less expensive ones from harbor freight or other similar stores have very 
> bad reviews from what I saw.
>  
> I no longer have my vw registered or insured so I'm getting closer to parting 
> with it.  If you know someone who wants a 16v turbo gli I've got one that 
> will be going on craigslist and vwvortex soon I think.  It isn't a perfect 
> looking car (ok, quite far from it) but it sure does run well!
> -- 
> 

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Re: [mk2-16v] Article: The Ten Best Classic Cars to Drive Daily

2016-05-30 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
A GTV in good condition can easily cost $60k now.

It's definitely a classic...

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 29, 2016, at 11:13 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> That list truly begs the question - What constitutes a classic car?
> #1 - Honda CRX? Really? 
> #2 - Datsun 240Z? Getting there, especially the 1970 models with manual.
> #3 - Alfa Romeo 105/115, also known as the GTV. Also getting there. Had 2 
> friends in high school, ones Mother had a '66 1600, the other had a '71 2000, 
> which was fuel injected. Nice cars, especially the '71.
> #4 - Miata?? Not now, not ever.
> #5 - First gen Mustang? No doubt. The original Pony Car. My Mother bought a 
> '66 notch back new. She got the 200ci 6 with C4 auto. Not the most desirable, 
> and I was infuriated about her choice of drive train, and body style. I 
> wanted the fast back, and the K code 271HP 289 with 4 speed. 
> #6 - Toyota FJ60? Maybe. I hear the original FJ40's are becoming more 
> desirable. 
> #7 - Mkl/ll GTI? Classic? As much as I love them, calling them classics is a 
> stretch. 
> #8 - BMC Mini? In Cooper S form, I put them in the same space as the GTI.
> #9 - Volvo 242?? Worse than #4.
> #10 - Mercedes W113 230/250/280 SL.
> The most classic of all listed. The prices of those has increased in the past 
> few years. Probably my favorite of the Mercedes 2 seat sports cars for that 
> era.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> #7 on this list:  
> http://petrolicious.com/the-ten-best-classic-cars-to-drive-daily
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
> 91 GTI 16V
> 
>  
> 
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Re: [mk2-16v] Someone go rescue this...

2016-03-28 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Yeah, the shipping is an impediment for me.  I have a truck and trailer but I 
don't have a week of free time to go get it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 1:16 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Shipping a car is not that expensive,  probably $1000 cross country.  Which 
> is a lot for a car this price I guess.
>  
> Maybe another list member nearby is willing to hold onto it until you can go 
> get it..
>  
> If I was still in NYC I would totally hold onto the car for you until you 
> figured out how to get it but I am not longer there.
>  
> I know a shop in Brooklyn that might be willing to accept the car for you and 
> hold onto it for a little while until you make arrangements - 
> http://www.tyrolsport.com/
>  
> Alternatively, I know a BMW shop in NJ who might be willing to do the same - 
> http://www.mrmcar.com/
>  
> But then you still have to get it across the country..
>  
> -Larry
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:11 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Someone go rescue this...
>  
> The GTi's had power recaros too.  It seemed to be whatever VW had laying 
> around the factory floor that day.  I've seen the GLi's with both manual and 
> power ones, most of the GTi's came with manual ones.
>  
> The power ones have larger leg bolsters and a wider head rest.
>  
> I really want this car as a project but I live several thousand miles away...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 28, 2016, at 12:38 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> I think only the GLI came with power seats,  not sure about windows.  So the 
> seats might have come from a GLI.  I think the GLI seats are a little larger 
> and don’t’ fit as well as the GTI seats.
>  
> I am glad to see these start moving as whole cars,  hopefully more people 
> start restoring them which makes it easier for the rest of us to keep them 
> going.
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2016 5:17 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [mk2-16v] Someone go rescue this...
>  
> If I were within a few hundred miles of this car I'd go get it.  If someone 
> lives close and is trailering out to Denver I'll buy it from you.
>  
> Don't think I've ever seen a 2l 16v with factory power windows, locks, cruise 
> and power recaros...
>  
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7622738-1991-VW-GTI-Recaro-16V-Project-for-sale-3000-NJ
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Re: [mk2-16v] Someone go rescue this...

2016-03-28 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
The GTi's had power recaros too.  It seemed to be whatever VW had laying around 
the factory floor that day.  I've seen the GLi's with both manual and power 
ones, most of the GTi's came with manual ones.

The power ones have larger leg bolsters and a wider head rest.

I really want this car as a project but I live several thousand miles away...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 12:38 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> I think only the GLI came with power seats,  not sure about windows.  So the 
> seats might have come from a GLI.  I think the GLI seats are a little larger 
> and don’t’ fit as well as the GTI seats.
>  
> I am glad to see these start moving as whole cars,  hopefully more people 
> start restoring them which makes it easier for the rest of us to keep them 
> going.
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2016 5:17 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [mk2-16v] Someone go rescue this...
>  
> If I were within a few hundred miles of this car I'd go get it.  If someone 
> lives close and is trailering out to Denver I'll buy it from you.
>  
> Don't think I've ever seen a 2l 16v with factory power windows, locks, cruise 
> and power recaros...
>  
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7622738-1991-VW-GTI-Recaro-16V-Project-for-sale-3000-NJ
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[mk2-16v] Someone go rescue this...

2016-03-27 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
If I were within a few hundred miles of this car I'd go get it.  If someone 
lives close and is trailering out to Denver I'll buy it from you.

Don't think I've ever seen a 2l 16v with factory power windows, locks, cruise 
and power recaros...
> 
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7622738-1991-VW-GTI-Recaro-16V-Project-for-sale-3000-NJ

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-25 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Must be a Cali only thing then.  I've never seen one in any other car before 
late 1993

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 25, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> I know that my '92 GTI 16V had a lot of emissions hardware that was specific 
> to California models. I remember when I would have the car smogged, they 
> would poke around the engine compartment for 15 or 20 minutes just checking 
> that all the hardware was there. I've never understood why California in 
> particular is so concerned about hardware inspection, when emissions is all 
> about what comes out the tail pipe.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2016 06:55, "Les Noriel"  wrote:
>> I was wondering if it was exclusively a california thing. My 90 Corrado had 
>> the connector underneath the shifter boot but I never really used it. 
>> On the other hand, I discovered in the Bentley, My 95 Jetta with the 2.0l 
>> motor had a small key underneath the rear seat. The key was inserted into 
>> the port in the console and with the ignition on, would provide me blink 
>> codes on the dashboard. 
>> 
>> Both were California cars when originally sold. 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:37 PM, Holland Phillips 
>>>  wrote:
>>> It's starting to sound like non California cars may not have what I've been 
>>> referring to as a check engine light. 
>>> My car was a California car from new.
>>> The best ground on any car is the negative battery post.
>>> The smell is very possibly the new cat, and the droning noise may be having 
>>> to do with the cat as well. You may want to check and see if the cat is 
>>> touching the heat shield that normally is between the cat and the floor of 
>>> the car.
>>> Until you get the basic timing sorted out, I wouldn't worry about the cold 
>>> start issue. There is a cold start valve which is mounted to the intake 
>>> manifold, on the tranny end of the manifold. But if the car only takes a 
>>> couple of tries to fire when fully cold, the valve is probably working.
>>> Sounds like you're on the home stretch, just double check the Bentley for 
>>> the exact basic timing procedure.
>>> You could try and get the car smogged, just find a place that promises free 
>>> retests if you fail. Most smog stations in California do.
>>> Hang in there, you've come a long way since your original post.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> 
 On Mar 24, 2016 21:32, "damac2004"  wrote:
 hmm, i see nothing in my cluster about this light or a seperate switch in 
 the dash.  i see motronic has basic codes you can check with jumper and 
 led with harness under shift boot.  i will check my car tomorrow for that 
 and see what happens.
 
 i tightened the distributor bolts and no go, timing light still jumps 
 around.  i tried various spots on the spark plug wire no change.  i tried 
 hooking up the timing light to the - post on coil to start like the bently 
 talks about, this would illimunate light on my gun but it wouldn't flash, 
 so i used the instructions for my gun and put it on the negative battery 
 post?
 
 i'm not sure what to do here.  i hate to spend all that $$$ on a new one 
 for no reason.
 
 i got antsy and took the car out for a hard drive and it was definately a 
 different experience than before.  not sure if im crazy or if the cams, 
 chip and intake could have made such a difference?  
 
 now i have a cat on it and the car is much quiter walking around it at 
 idle.  the engine bay specifically, and so much so when driving i thought 
 the car died multiple times when coming to a stop.  to my ear i feel there 
 is less crackling out the exhaust pipe, but it seems to me i hear and feel 
 a new drone right under me when just coming off idle.  i would have called 
 it a hesitation and gurgle but i noticed it isn't directly related to the 
 throttle when pusing it to go.  on that front the car seems to react as 
 good as ever without stumbling on the gas.  that drone seems to go away 
 when revving it out, and will come back at times when letting off the 
 throttle.  the car was always too loud for my liking when driving it but i 
 don't really care at this point, i will get rid of it later anyway.
 
 i only drove for like 20 minutes and when i came back the car stunk.  not 
 like raw gas smell, i wonder if its the cat breaking in?  of course they 
 mention nothing about it.
 
 i am hoping i am on the home stretch here.  i am tempted to just take it 
 into smog but i have to assume my timing isn't perfect and am afraid of 
 failing and having to go back :( 
 
 only issue i noticed again is i turned the car off and it restarted right 
 away.  when i went out for the drive, maybe an hour after previously 
 running the car had no life starting the first crank.  second crank it 
 sounded like it stumbled at the end.  third crank it started and idled on 
 its ow

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
You sure?  My friends '92 corrado didn't have one.  I've never seen one in a 
16v GTi/GLi.  

I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used to 
> check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it was 
> there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has happened 
> since the last time I worked on my car.
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v  
> wrote:
> Holland,
> 
> There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc 
> had one...
> 
> Josh
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 i 
> believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting confused 
> because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty 
> cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem 
> special looking to me.
> 
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are on 
> the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so if 
> i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't fit the 
> larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the 
> smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in included a 
> picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
> 
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it took 
> like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise.  
> then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am now having 
> an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i 
> cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it kind of lines up 
> with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the 
> other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off 
> it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried connecting the lead near the 
> distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to like this spot the best but im 
> not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering what impact this could have on 
> smog if im a little off.  also not sure if this means my car is having 
> troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley 
> shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal 
> wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check to be sure 
> that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade 
> connector. 
> 
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
> 
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect 
> until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to the 
> proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting a 
> momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch to 
> short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check engine 
> light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this and has a 
> chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember exactly where 
> in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am tempted 
> to cut further upstream to see.
> 
> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a 
> little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd reader? 
>  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to rewire 
> the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces just from 
> touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
> 
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> The pict

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Holland,

There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc 
had one...

Josh

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 i 
> believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting confused 
> because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty 
> cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem 
> special looking to me.
> 
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are on 
> the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so if 
> i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't fit the 
> larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the 
> smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in included a 
> picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
> 
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it took 
> like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise.  
> then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am now having 
> an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i 
> cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it kind of lines up 
> with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the 
> other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off 
> it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried connecting the lead near the 
> distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to like this spot the best but im 
> not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering what impact this could have on 
> smog if im a little off.  also not sure if this means my car is having 
> troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley 
>> shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal 
>> wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check to be sure 
>> that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade 
>> connector. 
>> 
>> 
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
>> 
>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect 
>> until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to 
>> the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting 
>> a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch 
>> to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check 
>> engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this 
>> and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember 
>> exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. 
>> 
>> ~Holland
>> 
>> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
>> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
>> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
>> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am 
>> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>> 
>> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a 
>> little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd 
>> reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to 
>> rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces just 
>> from touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
>> 
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the 
>> one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think 
>> that you're good to go. 
>> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd 
>> make things more confusing. 
>> 
>> Fire it up. 
>> 
>> One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not 
>> sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. 
>> 
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked 
>> like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is it 
>> possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside the 
>> ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was expecting a 
>> special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this

Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?

2016-03-21 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I've used Battery Tenders on my motorcycle and track car for years.  They work 
great.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 21, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> That's the whole marketing approach used by Battery Tender. They claim you 
> connect one of their chargers to your battery, and forget it. The electronics 
> in the charger will prevent over charging.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Mar 21, 2016 08:42, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
>> Had to look that up:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere-hour
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> This looks useful for testing batteries,  but I do want something I can keep 
>> on the cars at all times and not have to remember to charge them.  Do 
>> collectors keep tenders on the cars all the time or do batteries have to 
>> ‘rest’ from charging or are some charges smart enough to figure all this out?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’ll borrow this from you and play with it to see the health of the 
>> batteries.   But will continue to look for a ‘set and forget’ solution  to 
>> keep them topped off.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> -Larry
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
>> Of Chad Rebuck
>> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 11:34 AM
>> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I use a battery charger similar to this, along with an ac power cord from a 
>> laptop.  If I let my car sit for an extended time I top off the battery 
>> every month or so.  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I also charge a few lipo batteries with it so it isn't dedicated to charging 
>> car batteries.  Tells you how much you've added back in too, which is 
>> helpful so you know just how low your battery was before the charge.  I 
>> added about 11,000 mah this weekend to my 16v battery.  I think total 
>> capacity is around 40,000 for the battery so it wasn't too too low. It took 
>> a few hours to add/charge the 11,000 mah back in to the battery.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have one of these chargers I can give you.  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 11:00 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
>> 
>> My battery tender Jr. does not seem to be charging the batteries I am trying 
>> to use it on anymore.   Do these things die after a while?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I assume there is no hard in having them connected to a battery all the 
>> time?   I try to swap between the Mk2 and the E30 but now it seems like it 
>> is not charging either battery.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Might have to step up to a better one.Is this $200 fancy Optima one 
>> worth the extra money in anyone’s opinion?  
>> http://www.amazon.com/Optima-Digital-Performance-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B009M3PQFA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dying batteries is what led to the world of pain I am still in on my 16V.  
>> The battery would not stay charged and I was forced to park it away from an 
>> outlet (because NYC!) so it ended up sitting longer than it should have 
>> which caused the ethanol heavy gas to muck everything up…  now I fear 
>> uncharged batteries.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Larry
>> 
>> 91 GTI 16V
>> 
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
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Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?

2016-03-20 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Oh yeah,

Parting cars out is a *lot* of work, so those guys are working for their 
money...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> Seems like the kids these days use an entrepreneurial technique to raise 
> money for their cars which is rather clever.  They will buy cars that are in 
> bad shape by bidding quickly on them and taking the risk on their quality.  
> They don’t get attached to them and if they found a diamond in the rough they 
> keep it for a while and if it is a basketcase,  they part it out.  They don’t 
> seem to sell the whole broken car at a low price but instead greatly increase 
> their return on investment by parting the car out and putting some sweat 
> equity into it.  They are in some ways disrupting the junkyard business using 
> social networks to spread the word super fast.
>  
> I am wondering if any of you are participating in these partouts.   Seems 
> like each time I try to participate they never give me a price asking for an 
> offer – a clever way to sometimes get offered more money for parts and to 
> quickly gauge interest.   The Internet is making a whole generation into 
> wanttrepeneurs with some success.
>  
> I just connected with someone who has the exact matching car to my daily 
> driver (99.5 Audi ‘B5 A4’) and I need lots of parts from that car.  They 
> asked me to make an offer on what I want and I am not sure how to respond.  
> Do I just offer a few hundred for permission to take everything I need 
> (mostly small stuff) or do I make an inventory and make offers for each 
> little part.
>  
> Any advice on how to approach the negotiation?  I hate negotiating and prefer 
> transparent pricing on everything but with old cars you pay a significant 
> premium for new parts and could save hundreds by getting used parts 
> especially things like same color fenders in good condition.
>  
> Thoughts/advice?
>  
> 
>  
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
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Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?

2016-03-19 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I did this about 15 years ago with sciroccos.  I bought them cheap and parted 
out the interiors/power trains.  Sold the stuff via the old scirocco mailing 
list.

I generally sold things for half the price of junkyards.  Some thing I'd ask 
for offers one with the proviso that the buyer had to make it worth my effort 
to package and ship it.

So I'd find out how much it cost at a junkyard  then offer half of that.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> Seems like the kids these days use an entrepreneurial technique to raise 
> money for their cars which is rather clever.  They will buy cars that are in 
> bad shape by bidding quickly on them and taking the risk on their quality.  
> They don’t get attached to them and if they found a diamond in the rough they 
> keep it for a while and if it is a basketcase,  they part it out.  They don’t 
> seem to sell the whole broken car at a low price but instead greatly increase 
> their return on investment by parting the car out and putting some sweat 
> equity into it.  They are in some ways disrupting the junkyard business using 
> social networks to spread the word super fast.
>  
> I am wondering if any of you are participating in these partouts.   Seems 
> like each time I try to participate they never give me a price asking for an 
> offer – a clever way to sometimes get offered more money for parts and to 
> quickly gauge interest.   The Internet is making a whole generation into 
> wanttrepeneurs with some success.
>  
> I just connected with someone who has the exact matching car to my daily 
> driver (99.5 Audi ‘B5 A4’) and I need lots of parts from that car.  They 
> asked me to make an offer on what I want and I am not sure how to respond.  
> Do I just offer a few hundred for permission to take everything I need 
> (mostly small stuff) or do I make an inventory and make offers for each 
> little part.
>  
> Any advice on how to approach the negotiation?  I hate negotiating and prefer 
> transparent pricing on everything but with old cars you pay a significant 
> premium for new parts and could save hundreds by getting used parts 
> especially things like same color fenders in good condition.
>  
> Thoughts/advice?
>  
> 
>  
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
You gotta cap those

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 16, 2016, at 9:51 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> sorry i think the egr system attaches to the holes i am talking about.  and i 
> just dumped water down the runners and confirmed that the 2 big holes are 
> open to the intake runners.  so one picture is the euro intake and the holes 
> are so open you can look and see through.  stock manifold isn't like that but 
> those holes are linked and channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 8:05:45 PM UTC-7, chadrebuck wrote:
>> I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake 
>> manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no 
>> good. You able to send any picture?
>> 
>>> On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>> 
>>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
>>> made the car act this way?
>>> 
>>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
>>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
>>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>> 
>>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
>>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was 
>>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe 
>>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>> 
>>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
>>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
>>> the car like that.
>>> 
>>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort 
>>> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went 
>>> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole 
>>> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.  
>>> when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
>>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>> 
>>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
>>> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom 
>>> was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i 
>>> told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right.  
>>> couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>> 
>>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
>>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
>>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
>>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
>>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>> 
 On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
 I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
 contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
 is probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy 
 additives that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
 An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
 transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
 easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
 distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
 get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
 at around 50psi, give or take. 
 We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
 correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
 
 ~Holland
 
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
> injectors of all ages:
> 
>  
> 
> https://www.injector.com/
> 
>  
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
> Of Holland Phillips
> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> To: mk2...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
> 
>  
> 
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you 
> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a 
> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic 
> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motor

Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?

2016-03-19 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
2 and 3 are a real pita to remove...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> This is local and I have to remove the parts I need myself,  so not a lot of 
> work for this one person.
>  
> Mostly cosmetic stuff, no real engine parts which I would rather put in new:
> 
> 1) Steering Rack (this might be too messy so I am ok passing on this)
> 2) Driver Fender
> 3) Headliner
> 4) A Pillar Covers
> 5) Alarm Disable Button (Next to Driver Seat)
> 6) Windshied Bonnet Plastic Covers
> 7) Battery Tray Cover
> 8) Trunk Floor
> 9) Trunk Chrome HoldDowns
> 10) Black Door Side Skirts/Mouldings (All)
> 11) Headlights (If ECode or very good condition)
> 12) ABS Module
>  
> -Larry
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 10:03 AM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?
>  
> I did this about 15 years ago with sciroccos.  I bought them cheap and parted 
> out the interiors/power trains.  Sold the stuff via the old scirocco mailing 
> list.
>  
> I generally sold things for half the price of junkyards.  Some thing I'd ask 
> for offers one with the proviso that the buyer had to make it worth my effort 
> to package and ship it.
>  
> So I'd find out how much it cost at a junkyard  then offer half of that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> Seems like the kids these days use an entrepreneurial technique to raise 
> money for their cars which is rather clever.  They will buy cars that are in 
> bad shape by bidding quickly on them and taking the risk on their quality.  
> They don’t get attached to them and if they found a diamond in the rough they 
> keep it for a while and if it is a basketcase,  they part it out.  They don’t 
> seem to sell the whole broken car at a low price but instead greatly increase 
> their return on investment by parting the car out and putting some sweat 
> equity into it.  They are in some ways disrupting the junkyard business using 
> social networks to spread the word super fast.
>  
> I am wondering if any of you are participating in these partouts.   Seems 
> like each time I try to participate they never give me a price asking for an 
> offer – a clever way to sometimes get offered more money for parts and to 
> quickly gauge interest.   The Internet is making a whole generation into 
> wanttrepeneurs with some success.
>  
> I just connected with someone who has the exact matching car to my daily 
> driver (99.5 Audi ‘B5 A4’) and I need lots of parts from that car.  They 
> asked me to make an offer on what I want and I am not sure how to respond.  
> Do I just offer a few hundred for permission to take everything I need 
> (mostly small stuff) or do I make an inventory and make offers for each 
> little part.
>  
> Any advice on how to approach the negotiation?  I hate negotiating and prefer 
> transparent pricing on everything but with old cars you pay a significant 
> premium for new parts and could save hundreds by getting used parts 
> especially things like same color fenders in good condition.
>  
> Thoughts/advice?
>  
> 
>  
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
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Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?

2016-03-19 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Local guy had a 944 turbo that I'd like the get the torque tube from.

However he hasn't removed it yet and the rear suspension and tranny are still 
in too.

That means I'd have to spend ten hours pulling it from the car.  No thanks!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2016, at 3:01 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the heads up that I am going to have headaches getting the fender 
> and headliner off.
>  
> About today’s buyer’s of partouts,  I think we are seeing this across 
> everything.  Today’s buyer has so many more choices for everything they buy 
> that they no longer have to be respectful, patient or careful to still get 
> most of what they are looking for.
>  
> Everything is just very available and The Internet has connected everyone 
> very efficiently.   Someone can blast out 18 Facebook messages while shopping 
> for used parts and quickly get pictures back and quickly consider four offers 
> for the same part all in the span if 20 minutes.   Speed has a darkside and 
> you are seeing some of that.
>  
> One of the dark sides is that you often miss out on good deals if you don’t 
> react quickly.   Sort of the way if we started selling used parts to each 
> other on this list, outsiders won’t even get the opportunity to buy any of it 
> – it would all be gone quickly and without much negotiation because of the 
> inherent trust of the list.
>  
> -Larry
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 2:53 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?
>  
> The biggest headache I'm seeing with parting out older cars is that so many 
> buyers want "factory-fresh" parts at below bargain basement prices.  Worse 
> are the games that buyers play that range from requesting hundreds of 
> worthless photos to making false claims about damage.  
>  
> It's become such a PITA that I've posted disclaimers in my ads that include 
> things like "If you are unable to view the item yourself and send an agent - 
> there is a $## non-refundable deposit for this service".  I've been trying to 
> sell a pair of Honduh seats - WILL NOT SEPARATE.  Apparently no one knows how 
> to read or they use "new reading" skills to interpret the answer they want to 
> hear.  When I get a low-ball price or "Will you sell just the driver's 
> seat?", I've just started to insult these people with answers like -  $400 
> for both - I don't care if you throw the other one in the trash and For that 
> price, I'll burn the seat in front of you - what part of NFW didn't you 
> understand the first time?
>  
> Today's buyers honestly want everything for free...
>  
> 
> On Friday, March 18, 2016 2:06 PM, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v 
>  wrote:
>  
> 
> 2 and 3 are a real pita to remove...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 9:33 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> This is local and I have to remove the parts I need myself,  so not a lot of 
> work for this one person.
>  
> Mostly cosmetic stuff, no real engine parts which I would rather put in new:
> 
> 1) Steering Rack (this might be too messy so I am ok passing on this)
> 2) Driver Fender
> 3) Headliner
> 4) A Pillar Covers
> 5) Alarm Disable Button (Next to Driver Seat)
> 6) Windshied Bonnet Plastic Covers
> 7) Battery Tray Cover
> 8) Trunk Floor
> 9) Trunk Chrome HoldDowns
> 10) Black Door Side Skirts/Mouldings (All)
> 11) Headlights (If ECode or very good condition)
> 12) ABS Module
>  
> -Larry
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 10:03 AM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Part Out Negotiation?
>  
> I did this about 15 years ago with sciroccos.  I bought them cheap and parted 
> out the interiors/power trains.  Sold the stuff via the old scirocco mailing 
> list.
>  
> I generally sold things for half the price of junkyards.  Some thing I'd ask 
> for offers one with the proviso that the buyer had to make it worth my effort 
> to package and ship it.
>  
> So I'd find out how much it cost at a junkyard  then offer half of that.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 18, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> Hi All,
>  
> Seems like the kids these days use an entrepreneurial technique to raise 
> money for their cars which is rather clever.  They will buy cars that are in 
> bad shape by bidding quickly on them and taking the risk on their quality.  
> They don’t get attached to them and if they found a diamond in the rough they 
> keep it for a while and if it i

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I remember you working there.  ND was one of the OG tuner shops, I ordered my 
euro light relay harness and the hardened fog lights for my corrado from them 
back in the day...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 1, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your brother 
> do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name. What is 
> his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a difficult guy to 
> work for, at least for me, even though I was the most successful sales person 
> while there. Still good memories...
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel"  wrote:
>> Good to know.
>> 
>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows. I 
>> bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>> 
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips"  
>>> wrote:
>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel. 
>>> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was 
>>> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and 
>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started 
>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed 
>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it 
>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above 
>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I 
>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA 
>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it 
>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time 
>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried 
>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by 
>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> 
 On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
 Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!), 
 clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing 
 injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
 
  
 
 -Larry
 
  
 
 From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
 Of Holland Phillips
 Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
 To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
 Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
 
  
 
 I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
 contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
 is probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy 
 additives that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
 An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
 transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
 easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
 distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
 get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
 at around 50psi, give or take. 
 We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
 correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
 
 ~Holland
 
 On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
 
 I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
 injectors of all ages:
 
  
 
 https://www.injector.com/
 
  
 
 https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
 
  
 
 -Larry
 
  
 
 From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
 Of Holland Phillips
 Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
 To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
 
  
 
 I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
 If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
 at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
 used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you 
 could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a 
 couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic 
 injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so 
 I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing 
 to check for flow and pattern.
 Beyond that, I just don't know.
 
 ~Holland
 
 On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:
 
 The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
 tightened. It doesn't really hold

Re: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?

2015-12-24 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I put a coffee table in mine.  Anything bigger went on my Thule roof rack

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 24, 2015, at 9:48 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> I find myself having to ask for favors to haul stuff around because all our 
> cars are small.
>  
> Today I had to throw out an old mattress and had to ask our lawn guy to take 
> it to the dump for me.
>  
> I am thinking that if I ever get my MK2 running again I might put a rack on 
> it to be able to transport mattresses and such and the occasional large item 
> on top.   I can’t yet get myself to get an SUV which would mostly be wasted 
> space on most days.  And from what I have seen most people can’t fit anything 
> inside their SUV anyway and end up putting it on top anyway.
>  
> What kind of large stuff have you put into or on top of your Mk2?
>  
> Obviously putting anything heavy would be a no no, like that infamous MK3 
> Jetta crushed by plywood… but the ocassional ladder, mattress or Ikea run 
> which happens ocassionally would be useful to be able to do with the Mk2.
>  
> Some of you probably have pickup trucks for such tasks but I have no room nor 
> desire to own a pick up truck.
>  
> Maybe I just need to get a ‘station wagon’ as my next daily (current daily is 
> an Audi B5 A4).
>  
> -Larry
>  
> -- 
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Re: [mk2-16v] RE: Projects and Motivation

2015-12-15 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Once you do a stage 3 kit the G60 is pretty quick.

I had a vr6 corrado, the Windows would randomly till themselves down.  Not so 
much fun in the winter!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 1:44 PM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
>  wrote:
> 
> Based on how the cars have aged, you chose wisely.  The Corrado was/is the 
> poster child for Electrical Gremlins and How to add a Supercharger and STILL 
> make your new car SLOW.  Admittedly the Corrado is an interesting car but 
> even with the VR6, it's not exactly a rocketship - at least 1 ITS Corrado had 
> it's rear bumper cover "worn out" by a Mk2 GTi that insisted on pushing it 
> out of turns.  
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, December 14, 2015 3:06 PM, 'DocWyte' via MK2-16v 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I bought my '91 GTI 16v in '92 with 9,000 miles on it for $11k.  New I 
> believe it was $13-14k.  I was deciding between the GTI and a Corrado G60 
> that had 22k miles on it for $8k...
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, December 14, 2015 7:59 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The new cars have developed almost to the point that even an experienced 
> driver isn't capable of driving them at the limit.  The infatuation with time 
> around the Nurburgring is amusing and while it does have some correlation to 
> the real world, a tiny percentage of drivers are at that level let alone 
> drive like that on the street. 
> 
> I've been playing various and sundry video games for amusement and find that 
> the ultra-fast cars aren't much fun in a game b/c they're simply too fast and 
> twitchy.  Give me a low horsepower car that handles well and in the real 
> world, with similar skill sets, the slower car will win b/c the faster car is 
> too hard to drive fast without "great sadness".  
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, December 14, 2015 12:25 AM, Les Noriel  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I did watch a video of a beautiful 2.0l 16V Ford powered Caterham run the 
> ring. It was a single lap recorded running against a Porsche 996 GT2. The 
> Porsche was far more powerful but the Caterham was much faster in the turns. 
> I'm sure the skill of the driver had much to do with its success too. The 
> Youtube video recorded a single lap and was 8:28 in length. 
> 
> That Caterham is far more balanced setup for the track than our street cars 
> and it's Ford 2.0l is capable of 238hp
> 
> I'm sure Matthew's skill levels behind the wheel would be comfortable at 
> those speeds. I've only done competitive Kart racing which isn't anywhere 
> near those track speeds. I would likely have a heart attack taking those 
> turns that fast!
> 
> Les
> 
> On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Holland Phillips 
>  wrote:
> I purchased my '92 GTI 16V with 15,900 miles at a VW dealership in 1994 for 
> $13,400. I think the MSRP new was close to $18K. A stock '91-'92 GTI 16V 
> would probably be lucky to break 20 minutes at the 'Ring. The cars that 
> approach the magical seven minute mark all have well in excess of 600hp, 
> carbon ceramic brakes, active aero dynamics, etc., and cost over $100K. The 
> exception is the Corvette Z06, with an MSRP of a little over $70K. Once you 
> start approaching the seven minute mark with a stock production car, the 
> MSRP's can easily exceed seven figures. McLaren P1, Pagani, Ferrari 
> LaFerrari, Koenigsegg, Porsche 918, blah blah blah. The current record for 
> "production" cars is 6:48 for a Radical SR8LM. Not your Grand Mother's 
> grocery getter.
> ~Holland
> I ran across the restoration thread from VWVortex which I previously 
> mentioned.  It is an 87 8V GTI from Europe.  The thread is rather long but he 
> has done the restoration to a very high level of quality with a huge number 
> of hours dedicated to it.  Somehow he has more than one of these projects 
> going on at the same time…
>  
> http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4594833-VW-Golf-GTI-1987-restoration-project
>  
> About today’s driver’s cars – I am reminded about how much of a good deal 
> these cars were.  A 1992 GTI 16V invoiced at ~$12,500 circa 1991 which in 
> today’s dollars is ~$22,000.   You can’t even get a base model Golf these 
> days for that price, let alone the top of the line R.   We also all know that 
> today’s cars are safer than ever.  That safety comes at the cost of weight 
> which has to be overcome with more power from the engine.  For a while 
> displacement was how this was achieved but with emmissions standards getting 
> more stringent turbocharging has been the only way to keep up for most 
> companies.  All these things combine to reduce the raw feel of today’s cars 
> as compared to 80s cars.
>  
> Sadly, they can never build cars like they used to in the 80s but I think we 
> all have to admit that today’s cars are better than ever.  I wonder what a 
> stock MK2 16V would do on the Nürburgring and how close it would come to 
> today’s sub-7-minute record times.
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] 
> Sent: Friday, December

Re: [mk2-16v] The 2015 Oil Debate Thread

2015-12-12 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
All my cars now get Shell Rotella T6 5w-40.  O'Reillys has the gallon 
containers on sale now for $22.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 12, 2015, at 4:28 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> So here it is,  the 2015 oil thread debate.
>  
> What Brand and Weight of Oil are you guys using these days on your 16V?
>  
> (I had been using Mobil 1 15W50 until my car went into a comma)
>  
> Anyone using Lubro Molly 10 W 60 (Expensive stuff but some think the 
> thin-ness is liked by our high revving engines..)
>  
> Just to make it more interesting,  what are you using in your Transmission?
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  
>  
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Re: [mk2-16v] Anyone selling?

2015-10-27 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Ha!  Well, my old one wasn't so slow once I swapped in a stage 3 G60 motor!  

Unfortunately my old car got completely molested, someone had the bright idea 
to remove the rear quarter windows and replace them with steel.

So looking for an unmolested 2l GTi again.  I'm fairly mechanical and want to 
tinker so it doesn't have to be a 100 point car.  I don't like doing body/paint 
work tho, so prefer something clean in that regard.

As much as I like the fact that the GLi's came with larger brakes, power 
accessories and mostly power recaros, I kinda want a GTi.

Or a clean '93+ Corrado SLC...

Josh

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2015, at 9:15 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:
> 
> I've been thinking about selling my 90 gli but haven't done anything about 
> it.  I haven't priced any to see what they are going for but my guess is over 
> 4k.  It is a little quicker than your stock 16v so its better you are 
> reliving your youth than living your youth in this car.  I'm in Tampa... My 
> car can make that trip without question :)
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2015 10:46 PM, "'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v" 
>>  wrote:
>> Thinking about reliving my youth.  Looking (although sporadically) for a 2l 
>> 16v GTi.
>> 
>> Anyone thinking about selling?  The closer to Denver, CO the better...
>> 
>> Josh
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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[mk2-16v] Anyone selling?

2015-10-26 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Thinking about reliving my youth.  Looking (although sporadically) for a 2l 16v 
GTi.

Anyone thinking about selling?  The closer to Denver, CO the better...

Josh

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [mk2-16v] 16V Values in 2015

2015-09-03 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
Wow and to think I bought my '91 in '92 for under $10k...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 3, 2015, at 5:26 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Ran across a thread on the Vortex forums where they were discussing the 
> values of MK2s.  Among the discussion was a note that the most valuable MK2s 
> were the 16V MK2s.
>  
> Apparently MK1s are in the 10K-30K range right now for mint condition cars 
> and the MK2s have bottomed out in price around $3K and are now rising.
>  
> A mint 92 MK2 16V seems to now be going for $8K+ and these prices seem to be 
> rising.   This one sold three years ago for $6,500:  
> http://bringatrailer.com/2012/03/29/original-owner-clean-1992-volkswagen-gti-16v/
>  
> Maybe these rising prices will encourage more people to put money into 
> restoring/preserving these cars.   And also encourage VW to make more 
> replacement bits that have gone NLA.
>  
> -Larry
>  
>  
>  
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Re: [mk2-16v] RE: Cordless Impacts?

2015-08-12 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I've had a Milwaukee 1/2" drive lithium cordless impact for several years.  It 
works great, no issues.  I went with the 1/2" drove as it has over 400lbs of 
torque in reverse.

I've found those numbers on most of the guns are inflated.  Ie: it'll say it 
has 250lbs of torque but it won't break free a bolt torques to 90ft lbs...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 12, 2015, at 9:31 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> While I am at it,  what brands/models do you guys use/like for ¼” and ¾” 
> cordless ratchets?
>  
> I am looking at these to try to put together a full set of ¼”, ¾” and ½”
>  
> 
> Milwaukee 2456-20 1/4-in Cordless M12 Lithium-Ion Ratchet
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00659G0CC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=KBD11GDFDZC3&coliid=IWS6DPPE3EII1
> 
> Makita XDT04 18V LXT Li-Ion Cordless Impact Driver White
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YI3E8WQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=KBD11GDFDZC3&coliid=I33KD8LKZQNF4N
> 
> Milwaukee 2457-20 3/8-in Cordless M12 Lithium-Ion Ratchet
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006CSRBTC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=KBD11GDFDZC3&coliid=I1U8LTGR39W04L
>  
>  
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> -Larry
>  
>  
> _
> From: Larry Velez 
> Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 10:39 AM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Cordless Impacts?
>  
>  
> I am trying to not get a large air compressor in the garage.  Just have a 
> very small one to inflate tires.
> 
> From what I am seeing cordless impacts have more than enough torque for the 
> needs of our small cars.
>  
> But can someone school me on Hog Pin vs Detent on impacts?  Not finding a 
> summary of the pros and cons of each.
>  
> I am considering these two ½” Dewalt cordless impacts since I already have 
> two Dewalt 18V batteries and a charger.
>  
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DW059HB-18-Volt-Cordless/dp/B00545PHI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1439389527&sr=1-2&keywords=dewalt+dw059
>  
> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Bare-Tool-DW059B-18-Volt-Cordless/dp/B002VWK5R8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
>  
> thanks,
>  
> -Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  
>  
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Re: [mk2-16v] Cross Country with an MK2

2015-04-20 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v
I drove my 16v from San Diego to Boston and back several times.  Then drove 
that same car after I swapped a G60 motor in it from Cleveland to San Diego 
several times and Cleveland to Boston several times.

Never got stranded, but had a few heart stopping moments...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2015, at 7:51 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Would have been cooler if they had picked a VW MK2 to drive across the 
> country with.
>  
> Anyone ever driven their MK2 across their country?   Any fun stories to share 
> from that experience?
>  
> -
> Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jack Simon
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 12:28 AM
> Subject: [mk2-16v] Video worth watching / Braddock
>  
> The American Dream Project.  I just saw this for the first time tonight so 
> forgive me if it is a repeat for some (or all) of  you. 
> 
> https://vimeo.com/album/3342115/video/123969458​
>  
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