from:"Green, Steven D."

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Horn

2013-10-08 Thread Green, Steven D.

I only found 1 terminal on the horn?  Shouldn’t it have 2 since it has to stay 
isolated so the button can ground things and  complete the circuit, correct?
I wire like “Tim the Toolman”

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Bruce Ioppini
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 2:34 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Horn

Steve,   If you have a single horn, the wire coming out of the steering column 
(from the button) is connected to the horn.  The other horn wire goes to the 
positive battery.  If you have dual horns, a horn relay is usually used.  
Positive battery connects  to the relay, as well as ground (coming from the 
steering column).  the other connection goes to the horns.  Always remember the 
wire coming from the button is ground.

On Tuesday, October 8, 2013 11:05 AM, "Green, Steven D." 
mailto:sgr...@ku.edu>> wrote:

I am I supposed to have a horn relay on and 1952 3600?   IF not, how is the 
wiring supposed to go?

Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Horn

2013-10-08 Thread Green, Steven D.

I am I supposed to have a horn relay on and 1952 3600?   IF not, how is the 
wiring supposed to go?

Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Cast Iron Powerglide

2013-10-04 Thread Green, Steven D.

It’s a 1951 powerglide and goes behind a splasher 235 engine

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Brenda and Robert Greulich
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2013 12:33 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Cast Iron Powerglide


for 6 or 8 cylinder


IN GOD I TRUST.

HAVE A GREAT DAY
 [http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/03.gif]


From: "Green, Steven D." mailto:sgr...@ku.edu>>
To: "old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>" 
mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 2, 2013 11:15 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Cast Iron Powerglide


Off topic but related.  Anybody know where I might look for a good case for a 
cast iron Powerglide?   1951 vintage.

Thanks,

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Cast Iron Powerglide

2013-10-02 Thread Green, Steven D.

Off topic but related.  Anybody know where I might look for a good case for a 
cast iron Powerglide?   1951 vintage.

Thanks,

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

2013-10-01 Thread Green, Steven D.

You meet a lot of nice people in this hobby.

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Mike Fahrbach
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2013 8:58 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

Great news.

Sent from the iPad of:
Mike Fahrbach

On Oct 1, 2013, at 8:08 AM, "Green, Steven D." 
mailto:sgr...@ku.edu>> wrote:

Mike:

Drove up there Sept 21, met Ron, and picked up a 4.10 drop out section fro 
$250.   Running good again and at a little less RPM.

Thanks for the tip.

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike Fahrbach
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 3:20 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

Steve:  how no did Manes work out for you?

Sent from the iPad of:
Mike Fahrbach

On Sep 18, 2013, at 10:35 AM, "Green, Steven D." 
mailto:sgr...@ku.edu>> wrote:

I will give them a call.

Thanks,

Steve
1952  3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of 
mdfahrb...@gmail.com<mailto:mdfahrb...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 8:57 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

Steve: I found exactly what you are looking for to fit my '51 3600 at: 
www.manestruckparts.com<http://www.manestruckparts.com> They are close to you, 
just east of KC on I70. They knew exactly what I needed and shipped it right to 
my door near Hutchinson KS. Good luck. By the way, with the 4.10 and 16" rims 
and tall tires, cruising at 55 is a walk in the park. Fahrbach

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

2013-10-01 Thread Green, Steven D.

Mike:

Drove up there Sept 21, met Ron, and picked up a 4.10 drop out section fro 
$250.   Running good again and at a little less RPM.

Thanks for the tip.

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Mike Fahrbach
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 3:20 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential


Steve:  how no did Manes work out for you?

Sent from the iPad of:
Mike Fahrbach

On Sep 18, 2013, at 10:35 AM, "Green, Steven D." 
mailto:sgr...@ku.edu>> wrote:

I will give them a call.

Thanks,

Steve
1952  3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of 
mdfahrb...@gmail.com<mailto:mdfahrb...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 8:57 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential



Steve: I found exactly what you are looking for to fit my '51 3600 at: 
www.manestruckparts.com<http://www.manestruckparts.com> They are close to you, 
just east of KC on I70. They knew exactly what I needed and shipped it right to 
my door near Hutchinson KS. Good luck. By the way, with the 4.10 and 16" rims 
and tall tires, cruising at 55 is a walk in the park. Fahrbach

RE: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

2013-09-18 Thread Green, Steven D.

I will give them a call.

Thanks,

Steve
1952  3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of mdfahrb...@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 8:57 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential



Steve: I found exactly what you are looking for to fit my '51 3600 at: 
www.manestruckparts.com They are close to you, 
just east of KC on I70. They knew exactly what I needed and shipped it right to 
my door near Hutchinson KS. Good luck. By the way, with the 4.10 and 16" rims 
and tall tires, cruising at 55 is a walk in the park. Fahrbach

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Differential

2013-09-17 Thread Green, Steven D.

Anybody in the KC area have a 4.10 Eaton pumpkin (or complete rear end)  I 
could slip in my 1952 3600?   I need one bad and would like to get it fixed 
this week.  I am in Lawrence,  KS.

Thanks,
Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Wiring Harness Recommendations ??

2013-09-03 Thread Green, Steven D.

I also used the Chevy Duty Classic Parts wiring.   My only issue was I spent so 
long assembling the truck, a couple of the numbered stickers came loose in the 
Kansas heat before I got it wired.  If they are still the same harness, there 
will be splices under the cab for taillights, brake lights and turn signals.   
I would have preferred unbroken connections from front to rear but it wasn’t 
made that way.

Steve

1952 3600  Tagged and insured

1953 3100  Still in pieces



In a message dated 9/2/2013 6:32:25 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
rsi...@cox.net writes:

Any suggestions for a new wiring harness for my 1949 Chevy 3/4 ton? I
see significant variance in prices and I am sure in quality as well. I am
looking at the LMC and Classic Parts version but they still vary in price
from $150 to $270 or even more. Anyone had experience, good or bad, with
either of these vendors/products? Or have other recommendations??

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3600 Torque Tube Leak

2013-08-28 Thread Green, Steven D.

After many years, I finally got my 1952 3600 on the road.  I've driven it about 
25 miles.   Noticed a big leak at the rear of the torque tube section where it 
changes into a regular drive shaft.   Does this require a new OKIE bushing or 
is there a seal?I did not do any work on this section during reassembly 
other than clean and paint .

I had the trans filled at Jiffy.   The fluid in the trans. is real light weight 
not the 90W lube I recall being used in these.Do I need heavier lube and an 
OKIE bushing?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

1952  3600
1953  3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 3:51 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Broke Starter



Luke ;

1st. : CONGRATS ! . Fatherhood is demanding but also very rewarding .

I see you've purchased a new Bendix , be aware there are different ones , 
_COUNT_THE_TEETH_ before you try it , as the tooth count is CRITICAL and won't 
work if they're not the same .

My foggy ' brain ' tells me there's either 7 or 9 teeth on the Bendix depending 
on 6 or 12 volts .

FWIW : the Bendix (Starter Drive) for a 6 volt solenoid operated Chevy starter 
application is : 1949 Chevrolet Sedan with automatic .

I saw my old NAPA Echlin catalog last night and will cheerfully look it up for 
you if the one you ordered doesn't work . let me know .

-Nate
Luke wrote :
>
> Hey guys,
>
> My trucks starters gear broke and now were down to only one car and my wife
> is less than a month away from giving birth :0 I've got to get this fixed
> ASAP. I took it to a starter repair shop today and they said they couldn't
> fix it, my best bet is to buy a new one.
>
> I have a 50 3100 with a 235 in it (delco remmy starter 1107075 that has
> been converted to 12v and solenoid). I assume the previous owner who
> swapped for the 235 kept the 216 flywheel and starter. It has also been
> upgraded to 12v and solenoid drive. Where is the fastest place I can buy a
> starter that will work? Will any starter for a 235 fit a 216 flywheel? I
> see that classic parts sells the same starter I have now (47-54) but its 6
> volt and not driven by a solenoid. Would their 55-59 12v starter bolt up if
> I add a solenoid?
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks for all the help you guys have given me the last couple years,
>
> Luke
>
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: How to Put it Back Together

2013-06-19 Thread Green, Steven D.

Help!

I got my 1952 3600 back from the paint shop on Monday.   Now I am struggling to 
reassemble it.  I forgot so much from the disassembly I started back in 2003 
but I remember reading about how to do most of what I need to do in this forum. 
  I do have a factory assembly manual.

Please remind me where the archives files are and how to access them.

Where I need advice:


1.   Installing the windshield halves and back glass-and not scratching the 
new paint

2.  Installing the cab windlace-seems impossible so far-is there a tool or 
some magic goo- Do I have to heat or cool it to the right temperature?

3.  Weatherstripping the doors without removing them?  I don't want to take 
them off.

4.  Fender Welt---use it or not-looks nice but is it just a place for water 
to hide and start rust again?



Steve

1952 3600

1953 3100

1950 3600 Donor___
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RE: [old-chevy-truck] link to aircraft safety wired bolts

2013-06-10 Thread Green, Steven D.

Page 80, lower RH corner, of an old Classic Parts catalog I have shows a 
U-joint bolt and lock clip.   Looks like around $8 would buy 2 clips and 4 
bolts.   Is this lock clip the part or parts being discussed?

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of fiftyone5win...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2013 4:43 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] link to aircraft safety wired bolts



I do some metal fabrication and have used these folks for many years.
Never had an 'out of stock' issue and their shipping is prompt.

Here is a link to their safety bolt page -
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drilled-head-hex-head-screws/=n4ezln

thanks, Don
Fiftyone5window

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:  
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RE: [old-chevy-truck] was no wheels/ now 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton

2013-05-10 Thread Green, Steven D.

If it has brakes and fresh fluids & gasoline,  us poor folks just get a friend, 
hook a chain on it and drag it around with a tractor or another pickup.  Have 
driver of the 46 put it in high gear and engage the clutch to spin the engine 
and see if it starts.Probably not the safest or smartest but it sure is 
cool when they start.

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100
1950 3600 donor

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of corval...@peoplepc.com
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 6:33 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] was no wheels/ now 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton



I would turn it over by hand several times to make sure it will.

How about a tune-up; plugs, points, rotor and cap. Probably replace the
condenser too but I find that a pain. Time it.

Bill in Oregon

_

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Tom Johnston
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:04 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] was no wheels/ now 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton

Hi
Well I have not yet found the wheels I want, but I have the ole truck up on
all fours. I got two of the rotten tires to hold air on the split rims and
I have them up front, and I have two 1999 Ford E350 motorhome wheels on the
back. I had to put those wheels on backwards because they would not clear
the brake drums to install correctly. They stick out beyond the sides of the

fenders about 4 inchs and look ridiculous and too big. All very temporary.
Only so I can roll her around.

That brings me to my second project, seeing if the engine will start so I
can evaluate it. It is the original 216. Truck has 1968 plates so engine has

probably not been started in 46 years. Does anyone have any tips for me on
what to do? I pulled the oil pan and cleaned out all the solid crud. Then I
put in fresh 30 wt oil and sprayed some light oil down the spark plug holes.

Then I pulled the distributer and made myself a tool to spin the oil pump
with a drill. I did this until oil came out around the rocker arms.What
next? Should I hook up a battery and spin it, or should I turn it over
manually?

Thank you all in advance. Tom

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: RANCO Heater Valve leaking

2013-04-12 Thread Green, Steven D.

The old vendor named Chevy Duty, now called Classic Parts Of America, in KCMO,  
has both rebuild kits and valves already rebuilt for sale.
Part number for the exchange, rebuilt valve is 68-105, the seal part no. is  
68-191.

Steve
52 3600
53 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Lwoodworking
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 10:52 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: RANCO Heater Valve leaking



Thanks Bill but that's not what i was looking for. I have the original brass 
valve that attaches to the firewall, with two pipes sticking out front and a 
mechanical rod coming inside to adjust with. I only need the repair seal to go 
inside of it. Nate gave a Balkamp # but it's obsolete i guess. Thanks again Jeff

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:

>
>
>Is this what you want? Bill in Oregon
>
>http://www.amazon.com/Ranco-1023AMZ3193-Heater-Valve/dp/B001EHRC04
>
>_
>
>From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of jepetto58
>Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 7:16 AM
>To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: RANCO Heater Valve leaking
>
>Hello, In response to an old post, would anybody have a different part
>number for the rebuild kit for the Ranco heater valve. My NAPA cant seem to
>be able to cross reference it. Also am looking for rear emergency brake
>cables for my '49 1/2T. Any numbers for those at a local FLAPS. Any info
>greatly appreciated.
>
>Jeff
>Panama City Beach
>
>--- In 
>old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> , 
>mailto:corvallis@...>> wrote:
>>
>> Reading the link .I find "the repair kit # BK.660-1000 which is available
>at
>> your local NAPA Balkamp Auto Parts store."
>>
>>
>>
>> _
>>
>> From: 
>> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>
>> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> ] On Behalf Of corvallis@...
>> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 4:50 PM
>> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
>
>> Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: RANCO Heater Valve leaking
>>
>>
>>
>> Called a Heater Control Valve Rebuild Kit; I'd just ask for it at NAPA.
>>
>> Chevs of the 40's shows it in Section 35T
>> Here is a link to the install directions.
>> http://homepage. 
>> mac.com/tbird6663/Personal27.html
>>
>> ==
>>
>> From: old-chevy-truck@ 
>> yahoogroups.com
>> [mailto:old-chevy-truck@ 
>> yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rick W.
>> Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 4:22 PM
>> To: old-chevy-truck@ 
>> yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: RANCO Heater Valve leaking
>>
>> I did a search and did not locate the part number anywhere so far. I have
>a
>> couple of these units that need to be repaired. I would appreciate the
>part
>> number when you get the chance Nate. Thanks!
>> =
>> --- In old-chevy-truck@ 
>> yahoogroups.com, "Nate"  wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > You're in luck ! NAPA has it for $6.00 . I posted the P/N before , look
>> > under " Ranco " .
>> >
>> > If you cannot find it , I'll go dig up the # again next week .
>> >
>> > -Nate
>>
>> =
>>
>> > JZ wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I have a 54 Chevy 1/2 ton with a leaking, only slightly, control
>valve.
>> It is a inlet/outlet valve, connected to the heater hoses with a control
>bar
>> that has a knob under the dash. It seems to be leaking. I thought it was
>at
>> the solder point around the brass tubing but after taking it out it looks
>> like the control arm has a rubber gasket around a moving piston going into
>> the unit. Has anyone had this problem? Has anyone taken this apart and
>> replaced the rubber inside? Jim Carter will sell the entire unit, rebuilt
>> for $94. That seems like a lot for a rubber gasket or 2. Anyone know of a
>> source for the rubber?
>> > > JZ
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



--

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine

2013-03-21 Thread Green, Steven D.

I would say go slow, use GOOD screwdrivers, and if you have one, use your 
digital camera to document the disassembly.   All kits I ever used have a good, 
detailed exploded view of the carburetor.  I am guessing you have a good filter 
not far upstream from the carb.  IF not, add one.

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Robert Westmoreland
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 6:37 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine



Cale,
We are fishing in the same boat here. I have worked on a few lawn mower carby's 
though. Had pretty good luck with those, so i'm jumping in the pond.

From: Cale Seavers mailto:cale_seavers%40hotmail.com>>
To: 
"old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.comold-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine


I rebuilt my Rochester single barrel with a rebuild kit and advice from the 
guys here. I was sure it was going to be way over my head and it was pretty 
simple. If I can do it, you can...my car expertise can be summarized as "too 
stupid to know better." You can do it! Good luck!
-Cale
'51 1/2 ton (all original)

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 20, 2013, at 8:33 PM, "Robert Westmoreland" 
 wrote:

> Thanks Nate,
> I'll keep that in mind after i get it fired up. Took the carb off this 
> afternoon and got it soaking. You ever rebuilt an old one barrel? If so, is 
> there much to it?
>
> 
> From: Nate 
> To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:21 AM
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: stuck engine
>
>
>
>
> Yay ! .
>
> Remember : it'll prolly smoke a lot for a while , just run it and tune it , 
> expect to do several valve adjustments before they stay adjusted as the old 
> carbon chips away .
>
> Several HOT oil changes too , using thin Dino based oils until it either 
> stops smoking or you decide to re ring it .
>
> -Nate
> Robert wrote :
> >
> > I just wanted to say thanks to the forum for posts about how to free stuck 
> > engine. I have been trying to get my 216 unstuck for about a month now and 
> > finally broke it free today. Can't wait to get it fired up!!!
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] interior question--windlace tips

2012-10-16 Thread Green, Steven D.

I began the dubious task of replacing the cab windlace rubber in my 52 3600.  
With water and dishsoap I only get about 2 ft installed before it gets 
impossible to pull.

What is the secret?   K-Y jelly?

Thanks,
Steve

1952  3600
1953  3100


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge

2012-10-10 Thread Green, Steven D.

Everything I plumb, leaks.  Even a 216 at 7psi.

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Hanlon, Bill
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:45 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge

I'm surprised a Chevy 216 will generate enough oil pressure to cause a leak. ;-)

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>]
 On Behalf Of Green, Steven D.
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 8:13 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge

My oil pressure gauge is leaking where the line connects to the gauge in the 
dash. I tightened it as tight as I thought was safe and it still drips. It's a 
216 and all stock. What should I look for to fix the problem?

Steve
1952 3600-the one with the drip
1953 3100

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Oil Pressure Gauge

2012-10-10 Thread Green, Steven D.

My oil pressure gauge is leaking where the line connects to the gauge in the 
dash.  I tightened it as tight as I thought was safe and it still drips.  It's 
a 216 and all stock.   What should I look for to fix the problem?

Steve
1952 3600-the one with the drip
1953 3100


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: More Radiator Stuff

2012-09-06 Thread Green, Steven D.

A little off topic but trying to buy a decent replacement radiator for my 1968 
Impala.   Ordered 1 from Advance Auto and promptly returned it-fins too weak to 
withstand impact with a bug, no built-in nuts for attaching the shroud, no 
access holes for bolting to core support,  trans cooler connections in wrong 
spots.  Every other one avail at FLAPS and pictured on web looks to be the same 
junk.  Radiator shop wants big $$ to recore.

Anybody know where the right part might be located that FITS?

Thanks,
Steve

1953 3100
1952 3600
1968 (hot) Impala

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of ccpanel
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 12:13 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: More Radiator Stuff

my 2 concerns with alum rad is one-
they dont flex as much as copper before breaking.
everything on our trucks is meant to flex and designed that way.
two-without TIG or some kind of insane epoxy-I cant repair a copper radiator. 
alum ones rarely get repaired or can be repaired-they usually get recycled and 
you buy a new one.

I USE my truck so when I get around to buying a new rad(which I REALLY need) 
its gonna be 'cough' a $$copper$$ radiator... =/
Mark

--- In 
old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, 
"Woodie Guy" mailto:tikuayla@...>> wrote:
>
> I see on ebay, there are Champion Aluminum radiators for about $125 less than 
> an original repo type radiator. I am not concerned with having a 100% stock, 
> original truck. Does Aluminum cool more efficiently? Anybody have input about 
> using an Aluminum radiator?
>
> Thanks, and have a great day...
>
> Charlie, fixin that RED RYDER
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Brake Bleeder Wrenches

2012-07-02 Thread Green, Steven D.



After all, who remembers how to spin a 4-way lug wrench, anyway?


Steve
1952  3600
1953  3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 2:38 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; 126die...@yahoogroups.com
Cc: MetroGroup on YahooReplies; Replies 126DieselList; 
diesel_merce...@yahoogroups.com; RepliesSoCalTT; REPLIES CRETINSyahoolist; 
Replies WagnerCycleForum; RepliesRoberts Trucklist; VJLA YahooGroup REPLIES
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Brake Bleeder Wrenches



Wow ;

This is fun ! .

So far I've been cursed , insulted (hard to do I know) , called a cheap bastard 
(I prefer " Yankee Thrifty ") and so on.

Who know that such a basic tool would ever be so hard to find ? .

-Nate
   Jonas  wrote:



Aaargh!  Something  is going on with tool manufacturing and reducing stocks.  I 
tried to get one of those big X-shaped lug nut wrenches with a different size 
wrench on each end.  None of  the local parts stores in my LA neighborhood had 
one.  A few of the people never heard of them.  Orchard Supply Hardware had one 
for $7, but that took me a while!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[old-chevy-truck] Hot 1950 3600

2012-03-26 Thread Green, Steven D.

I recently bought a 1950 3600 that burned.  The fire was confined to the engine 
compartment and the heat destroyed everything in the cab.   The bed sustained 
minor damage and that is all I wanted was the bed and rear fenders.

>From what I can determine, the engine is an  early 261 (54-55)  but seems to 
>be locked.  The fire melted the carb and fuel pump.

Assuming its toast, does the engine have any core value?   Has the heat ruined 
it?  Is it worth trying to turn over or is that just likely to score the 
cylinders?

I sure hate to scrap a 261 but that may be  the only alternative?

Advice appreciated.

Steve

1953 3100
1952 3600
1950 3600 donor


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

2012-02-23 Thread Green, Steven D.

Steve:

Thanks for sending an opinion I can use.  I just don't want this truck to end 
up looking like the Cadillac in that old Johnny Cash song.

I'll be sure to disclose (or tell my kids to disclose) to any future owners 
that the truck is constructed of foreign and domestic parts of mixed vintage.

Thanks,
Steve

1952 (mostly 1952) 3600
1953 3100
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Steve Ley
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2012 12:04 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

Come on Guys,

The guy wants to know it it'll work. In my opinion, it will. The width and
number of boards in the floor will differ, but it'll go on the truck with
little or no problems.

Sorry you got caught up in an internal struggle. This is exactly what this
list is intended for and we pride ourselves on giving new members helpful
and correct info in a timely manner.

Let's get back to what we really are, OK.

Steve Ley
s...@sprynet.com

51 Chevrolet Canopy Express
80 Chevrolet K10 SWB
02 Chevrolet K25 Crew Cab Duramax

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Jonas Thaler
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2012 10:26 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

I would risk Extreme Internet Punishment to drive a truck like that around!

jt

On Feb 23, 2012, at 6:16 AM, Hanlon, Bill wrote:

> Got it Nate!
>
> So one could drop a STOCK Dodge Hemi V8 into one's AD pickup and remain
within the letter of the law.
>
> 
> From: 
> old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Nate
> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 10:37 PM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question
>
> Yes it would ;
>
> It just wouldn't be original nor restored
>
> You weisenheimer ! =8-) .
>
> -Nate
> Wise Guy Bill wrote:
> >
> > Gee Steve, it wouldn't be stock.
> >
> > 
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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 Groups Links

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

2012-02-23 Thread Green, Steven D.

Somewhere in all of this can I assume the  bed from a '50 model 3600 will fit 
my '52 3600 despite all the issues of originality, number of boards in the 
floor, yada, yada, yada

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Hanlon, Bill
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2012 8:16 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question



Got it Nate!

So one could drop a STOCK Dodge Hemi V8 into one's AD pickup and remain within 
the letter of the law.


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 10:37 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

Yes it would ;

It just wouldn't be original nor restored

You weisenheimer ! =8-) .

-Nate
Wise Guy Bill wrote:
>
> Gee Steve, it wouldn't be stock.
>
> 
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

2012-02-22 Thread Green, Steven D.

Sorry, I have a state job and not enough purchase power to buy the right stuff. 
 All new parts cost around $2K and the used bed I'm looking at is far less 
money.

Steve
1952 3600 (bedless and almost ready for paint)
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Hanlon, Bill
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 4:22 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question



Gee Steve, it wouldn't be stock.


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>]
 On Behalf Of Green, Steven D.
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 3:04 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

Will I have any problem transplanting a 1950 Chevy 3/4T bed onto a 1952 Chevy 
3/4T? IF you order new parts, the 52-53 is a different kit than the earlier 
edition.
Is the difference just the number of boards in the floor of the box or is it 
something that affects fit or height?

What do I need to measure to insure compatibility?

Thanks,
Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

2012-02-22 Thread Green, Steven D.



Will I have any problem transplanting a 1950 Chevy 3/4T bed onto a 1952 Chevy 
3/4T?IF you order new parts, the 52-53 is a different kit than the earlier 
edition.
Is the difference just the number of boards in the floor of the box or is it 
something that affects fit or height?

What do I need to measure to insure compatibility?

Thanks,
Steve

1952 3600
1953 3100



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 59 crate motor

2011-11-08 Thread Green, Steven D.

And, I see my good friends from Purple Wave Auction service got a plug in there 
too.

Steve
1953 3100
1952 3600

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of corval...@peoplepc.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 1:28 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 59 crate motor



Rockers are lubed by oil coming up the Clip shown as 1.928 here:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_54chevyparts/info/087a.htm

_

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com]
 On Behalf Of David
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 8:01 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 59 crate motor

No rust just old grease. It has solid lifters. How does the oil lube the
rockers?

Sent from my Samsung EpicT 4G

corval...@peoplepc.com 
 wrote:

>Might there be a light patina of rush on the valve stems that will keep
some
>of them from sliding in the valve stem bushings? .bill in corvallis
>
>===
>Dave wrote:
>>
>> I mentioned before I acquired a 59 235. It had never been installed and
>never fired. Instead of putting the engine in the 42, I picked up a 52 1
ton
>flatbed in good shape and great original green patina. traded an english
>wheel for it. No motor. Before I put the motor in the hole I decided to see
>if it would turn over. Would not budge. I was thinking that it was probably
>assembled with assembly lube of some kind 50 years ago. After a few minute
>conversation with Patrick I decided to disassemble the bottom end. That was
>a great idea. As soon as everything was loose it spun over very nice. I am
>dressing the cam and lifters with ZDDP for startup. I am glad I spent the
>time instead of fighting it in the truck. Goodtimes

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] flywheel removal

2011-09-30 Thread Green, Steven D.

50 is the new 80, except for currency—where 50 is the new 20.

Steve
1953 3100
1952 3600

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Daron Nettles
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 5:43 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] flywheel removal

Wow, I'm getting soo old I see the word flywheel and think harmonic 
balancer. Maybe I shouldnt reply to any posts ever againMy wife was 
right, 50 is the new 80. Daron

--- On Fri, 9/30/11, Daron Nettles 
mailto:dwnett%40swbell.net>> wrote:

From: Daron Nettles mailto:dwnett%40swbell.net>>
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] flywheel removal
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, September 30, 2011, 5:37 AM

Mark it anyway before you take it off.  although there should be one key way 
slot, my luck there would be two.  Daron

--- On Thu, 9/29/11, Ken Wagner 
mailto:whetstone.retreat%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

From: Ken Wagner 
mailto:whetstone.retreat%40yahoo.com>>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] flywheel removal
To: "old chevy truck" 
mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>>
Date: Thursday, September 29, 2011, 1:34 PM

Guys, I am removing my flywheel on chev 235. Is it keyed somehow or marked so 
that it goes back on the crank in same position as before so the timing marks 
aren't messed up?
Ken

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Head Service

2011-09-16 Thread Green, Steven D.

Thanks for explaining the purpose of the grease.  Neat trick.

Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 12:59 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Head Service

O.K. Rob ;

Vacuum 1st. then peer in with a bright light ~ if you see more crud between the 
piston and cylinder , that's when the grease comes in handy ~ you smear it 
around the cylinder then rotate the engine and the debris sticks to the grease 
on the cylinder walls where you can wipe it out .

If ,once it's buttoned up , it begins to smoke blue or white , don't panic , 
just go back in and replace the pistons & rod bearings.

I've forgotten your original post , you're doing head work because of valve 
troubles , not smoking correct ? .

-Nate
Rob wrote:
>
> Â Thanks Nate, no I'm not replacing the pistons, so the vacuum idea was 
> really good advice
>
>

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Body Rubber

2011-09-09 Thread Green, Steven D.

I checked some prices on Steele products, swallowed hard a couple of times, and 
decided to have a beer and think it over!!!
Just how long can I make the Chinese rubber last if I treat it nice and leave 
it in the garage for most of its life??

Steve 1952 3600
 1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 12:25 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Body Rubber



Steele Rubber Co. wins hands down ~ it's all American made too .

It fits right , works right , looks right and doesn't rot to crap like the 
shiny Chinese junk does .

-Nate



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Bed Length

2011-09-07 Thread Green, Steven D.

Anybody had any grief finding bed sides for a 3600 series?   One local supplier 
told me the longest bed sides I could get were 86" and my 88-5/8" bed sides 
were an oddball length and good luck finding them.

I called a company called Mack Hils in Missouri and they told me ¾ tons are all 
88-5/8" long.   This company also has a little better price than Mar-K in 
Oklahoma.

Anybody bought parts from this company?

Thanks,
Steve

1953 3100
1952 3600


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

2011-09-07 Thread Green, Steven D.

Ken:

Nobody mentioned it, but I would "remove, not cut" the radiator support.  I've 
seen many of these that have had the top bar and cross supports hacked off 
during an engine transplant.  Sometimes their neatly welded back, many times 
NOT.

Steve
1953 3100
1952 3600
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Ken Wagner
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 8:23 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

Rick, Ken and Bill, Thanks for your input. Your advice is exactly what I wanted 
to hear. I think I misunderstood my friend when he said to pull the whole thing 
as a unit.
Got another question for you all. CYLINDER RE-BORING.
Cyl. #4 is in bad shape. Looks like maybe a broken ring pretty well scored it 
up. Thought maybe I could have the engine rebored, but after cleaning up the 
top of the pistons, I see .060 stamped on the top. That means it has already 
been re-bored? And what is the liklilhood that I can have it bored another 20 
or so?
Not looking good.
As always thanks for your input.
Ken Wagner

From: Rick Wagner mailto:nlinesix%40gmail.com>>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2011 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] engine removal

Noyou will have to pull the trans first then egine will be able to come
out.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 6:57 PM, ken 
mailto:whetstone.retreat%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Hi gang.
> Getting ready to pull the engine from my 52 half ton. It came with
> a transplanted 235 (1959) and a granny 4sp replacing the orig. 3 sp.
>
> I am being told to pull engine and tranny as a unit. It doesn't look like
> the tranny would clear the cross member the rear engine motor mounts are
> bolted to. As you know that 4sp is big and it hangs down several inches
> below and behind the cross member.
> I am not going to modify anything so I will be using the old tranny ( and
> the engine if salvageable)
>
> My question is--can that 4sp box clear that cross member??
> AS alway thanks a bunch for all your input and expertise.
> Thanks, KEn
>
>
>

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[old-chevy-truck] Wiring Help

2011-07-26 Thread Green, Steven D.


I bought a partially finished 3/4ton with a new wiring harness that is partly 
hooked up.  Trouble is I got NO instructions with the truck and cant find any 
directions in the boxes of parts that came with it.   The guy who sold it to me 
is not the same guy who bought the harness and did the work.

There is enough of it hooked up to start the engine and operate the charging 
system but I have lots of extra wires hanging down from the dash-maybe turn 
signals or may they are the tail lights.  Not sure where the dome light and gas 
gauge wires are.  The hanging wires are labeled with numbers-- in the 
30's--like 31, 32, 33, etc.

The folks at Classic Parts were nice enough to send me instruction for their 
wiring kit but it does not match.

Does anyone have instructions for another brand of wiring kit to share that 
might accidentally match what I have?

Thanks,

Steve

1953 3100
1952 3600


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] How about a hood?

2011-07-26 Thread Green, Steven D.


Anybody close to Lawrence KS got a nice, straight hood for a 1952 3600?  I am 
trying to fix mine and I don't have enough skill to make it look right.

Thanks,
Steve

1953 3100
1952 3600


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Interior Paint

2011-07-22 Thread Green, Steven D.


I'm ready to paint the interior of the cab on my '53.
I got paint codes off a website that called for 27467 PPG or 202-81407 Dupont 
but my local CARQUEST can't find either code.

Does anyone have a current number for the right formula?

Also wanting to edge some body parts before reassembling-CQ found Juniper Green 
for 1952-is Juniper Green the same in 1952 and 1953??

Thanks,
Steve
1952 3600
1953 3100



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Modern 3/4T Wheels

2011-07-19 Thread Green, Steven D.

I recently acquired a partially finished ¾ ton to go with my unfinished ½ ton.  
The ¾ ton has those dangerous two piece wheels that I would like to replace.

I seem to recall a discussion of how to make later model ¾ ton wheels  work on 
the AD trucks.  I mounted some tires and tried to use some one piece 16", 
8-hole wheels.  The back is OK but on the front,  the outer portion of the 
wheel rubbed on the tie rod ends.

Is the fix a different wheel, new tie rod ends, or spacers behind the wheels (I 
really don't like that idea.)  Are there some one piece, 8-hole, 15" wheels 
that will work without altering anything?

Thanks,
Steve

1953 3100
And now also a 1952 3600


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Rear Ends

2011-05-26 Thread Green, Steven D.


I read a tech article some guy wrote on sticking a 1950-1954 Chevy car rear 
axle (from a powerglide equipped car) underneath a 1946 and older  Chevy 
pickup.  He got better highway speeds and 5-bolt axles out of the deal on the 
cheap.

Question: anyone know if this swap will work in a 1947-1953 pickup?Is this 
a bad idea in general?

Thanks,
Steve
1953 3100


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Fw: RockAuto Discount Reminder

2011-05-24 Thread Green, Steven D.

FYI--NAPA still sells a clutch kit (NCF1104123) for 9-1/8" size and you might 
save the freight if they can add it on to a stock order for the store.   I got 
mine for less than the Rock Auto list price via a company discount.

Steve
1953 3100
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 1:30 PM
To: Replies 126DieselList; diesel_merce...@yahoogroups.com; RepliesSoCalTT; 
Replies Old-Chevy-Truck; CT90/110 Groupyahoo CT90yahooReplies; RepliesRoberts 
Trucklist
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Fw: RockAuto Discount Reminder

Oops ! I guess I forgot about this when I placed my recent clutch order , maybe 
someone else can use it.

-Nate

---  RockAuto Customer Service  wrote:

RockAuto Discount Reminder

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color:22;font-size:13px;}

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#yiv292896811

RockAuto Discount Reminder!

Your RockAuto discount code 53299814422004 will expire on June 5, 2011.

If you or anyone you know is thinking of doing some vehicle repair, now's the 
time to order the parts!

Taking advantage of this discount opportunity is easy! Simply enter your code 
in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using 
our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of 
the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order 
total.

RockAuto carries a full line of mechanical parts, from small items like filters 
and wiper blades to complete remanufactured transmissions and engine long 
blocks. We also have a growing number of body parts: door handles, mirrors, 
sheet metal, bumper covers, even carpets! Our online catalog includes vehicles 
from 1945 to today, making it easy to find parts no matter what you drive.

Thanks again for buying your auto parts at RockAuto!

Tom Taylor

VP Marketing

www.RockAuto.com

serv...@rockauto.com

1-866-ROCKAUTO (1-866-762-5288)

(608) 661-1376

Fax: (608) 836-5694

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 216/235/261 HEI Dizzy

2011-05-10 Thread Green, Steven D.

I happen to have a 2.8L distributor in my stock of surplus parts.  From your 
note, I get it this is not a home conversion?

Steve
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Jones, Allen
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 9:46 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 216/235/261 HEI Dizzy

You can also modify a V-6 "mini" HEI from a S-10 (2.8 L) and it looks much more 
period correct - a round distributor that is pretty close in size to the 
original 235 distributor. However, the external coil is square. There are 
several companies that do the mods. The mods are also documented all over the 
internet. This is becoming a much more used HEI than the original bulky HEI 
conversion.

The Pertronix is by far the easiest conversion.

Allen
'50 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
[old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Nate [vwna...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 6:21 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 216/235/261 HEI Dizzy

Sadly , none are bolt in so you must buy one that's been modified to fit the 
older design block .

Or , you can buy a " Pertronics Ignitor " that fits in place of the points and 
works just as well , retains the original Delco Dizzy so it all looks cool , 
then you can open up the spark plug gaps from .035" to .045" and get some good 
burning going on .

There's plenty of places that sell the modified HEI dizzy so it's a drop in fit 
and uses standard off the shelf Chevy ignition parts , it just looks a bit 
bulky & goofy on an old engine .

I hope this helped .

-Nate
Steven wrote:
>
> Nate:
>
> Remind those of us with short memories, what HEI 6 cyl distributor will 
> fit/work in a 235 engine? Is it any GM as long as it goes 1-5-3-6-2-4? Are 
> the diameter, length, gear, and oil pump drive compatible from any GM I-6?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> 1953 3100
>

Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: engine wiring harness

2011-05-06 Thread Green, Steven D.

Nate:

Remind those of us with short memories, what HEI 6 cyl distributor will 
fit/work in a 235 engine?   Is it any GM as long as it goes 1-5-3-6-2-4?  Are 
the diameter, length, gear, and oil pump drive compatible from any GM I-6?

Thanks,
Steve
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2011 3:50 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: engine wiring harness

To get back to the original question (in case anyone was wondering) :

To hook up an HEI dizzy & SI alternator only takes two wires .

The dizzy needs 12 volts DC unfused directly from the ignition switch .
if you want a tachometer , add one more wire .

The alternator needs one heavy gauge 12 volt unfused wire going to the battery .

If you want it to begin charging the instant you start the engine rather than 
revving it to 3,000 RPM's to begin it charging , add one more wire and either a 
diode or use the acc terminal *but* often the alternator will put out 
sufficient current to back feed that accessory ciruit .

-Nate

(old guy who likes the old ways just fine as they're -far- more reliable than 
any Hot Rod ever could be)
Lee wrote:
>
> Well Nate
> Some people don't appreciate good money saving info. Also the reason, I 
> thought, for owning one of these oldtimers is the fact you can do it 
> yourself. As you explained this is simple operation.To make it even simpler 
> if you have an acc on your ign switch you don;t need a diode.
>
> Lee
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Old Navy Trucks

2011-04-27 Thread Green, Steven D.

I remember 3 years ago or so there was a discussion of Old Navy display trucks 
showing up for sale.   One surfaced in my area and looks to have a good front 
clip, new grille and bumpers.

I recall that Nate or someone had commented that some had been hacked up to 
make them into display models.

Anybody care to refresh my memory?

Thanks,
Steve
1953  3100


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: NEW IN CRATE: 1948 -1954 GM Synchromesh Transmission

2010-09-03 Thread Green, Steven D

Knew farmers who lugged  thru the pasture feeding cattle hay off the
back of driverless AD trucks

 

Steve

1953 3100 

 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
corval...@peoplepc.com
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 11:56 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: NEW IN CRATE: 1948 -1954 GM
Synchromesh Transmission

 

  

I used to back up 2-tons into truck unloading areas. Put it in reverse,
get
it pointed the right way, then step out on the running board with one
hand
still on the wheel and look along side my load to make sure I was
slotting
in ok. Quick inside to stop it when close to the dock. ...bill in
corvallis
==
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 ] On Behalf Of Cale Seavers
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:23 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: NEW IN CRATE: 1948 -1954 GM
Synchromesh
Transmission

I ran into a guy who's grandpa had an advanced design GMC 4 spd and a
potato
farm...he said at harvest time they would put the truck in 1st and clip
a
clothes pin behind the hand throttle. The truck would drive itself in
between the mounds of pototes at 2 or 3 mph while the family harvested.
-cale
owensboro ky





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Transmission kit for 1941 thru 48 Chevrolets

2010-08-30 Thread Green, Steven D

My first car was a '42 Fleetline with vacuum assisted shift.  Don't know
if that vacuum motor system worked well when it was new but mine was
nearly impossible to shift on a subzero day in Kansas.  Wish I'd have
known there was a conversion to manual? 

 

Steve 

1953 3100

 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Ley
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 1:30 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Transmission kit for 1941 thru 48
Chevrolets

 

  

When I started in my dad's Chevrolet dealership in 1955, we had a vacuum
shifter on the shelf. We also got this kit from Bowman Industries. When
I
sold the dealership in 1986, we threw away the vacuum shift assembly,
nobody
would pay to replace it, the kit was so much cheaper. I've often
wondered
whether someone was still making the kit. We sold hundreds of them.

Steve Ley

51 Chevrolet Canopy Express

s...@sprynet.com  

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 ] On Behalf Of Peter Peterson
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:47 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Transmission kit for 1941 thru 48 Chevrolets

Interesting ad on Hemmings for 41 thru 48 Chevrolet transmissions kits:
http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/partsforsale/chevrolet/unspecified/1
1128
00.html
These are out of Portland, Oregon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Torrington Bearings

2010-08-27 Thread Green, Steven D

Thanks all.  I've seen 'em but didn't know the correct nomenclature.

 

Steve

1953 3100

 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
corval...@peoplepc.com
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 3:42 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

 

  

.bill in Corvallis

http://farnorthracing.com/newimages/torringtons.jpg

_ 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Green, Steven
D
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 1:12 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

Not familiar with this name. Torrington bearings, did they support or
surround the king pins?

Steve

1953 3100
=
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Steve Ley
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 12:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

Back in the day, I drove a 48 Chevrolet COE wrecker. It used Torrington
Bearings in the front axle. It had a terrible habit of going into a wild
shimmy when you hit a moderate bump, so we took them out and replaced
them
with thrust washers. Found out that the steering effort doubled, so we
put
them back. When it began to shimmy, you just stopped and restarted
again.

Steve Ley

51 Chevrolet Canopy Express

s...@sprynet.com <mailto:sley%40sprynet.com>
<mailto:sley%40sprynet.com> <mailto:sley%40sprynet.com> 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Hanlon, Bill
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 6:37 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
Cc: jcgiff...@fltg.net <mailto:jcgifford%40fltg.net>
<mailto:jcgifford%40fltg.net>
<mailto:jcgifford%40fltg.net> 
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

BTW, there is a guy over on the OldGMCTrucks web site that is working on
putting Torrington bearings on the interface between the axle and the
steering knuckle. GMC Master Parts Book shows the 57 & 58 GMC 1/2 ton
front
axle came with a thrust bearing (part # 373476) at that point instead of
thrust washers as used in earlier 1/2 ton (F022) front axle assemblies.
That
bearing was apparently made from un-obtainium and is no longer
available. Or
maybe it was just an urban legend.

Anyway, here is a pointer to the discussion about using Torrington
bearings.
http://oldgmctrucks.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/633004236/m/776109227?
r=77
6109227#776109227
Jack (the guy that is doing this) is a machinist extraordinaire, so
doing
this yourself may require more tools and knowledge than it takes to run
a
flat file across the axle for additional clearance.


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 7:38 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

Hi guys (& Gals !) ;

At long last I have found a FREE 1958 Task Force front axle for the
Bendix
Brake upgrade on my '49 3100 , I'm to go fetch it in my son's Toyletta
pickup so I need to know ASAP what size deep socket to take along as
I'll
have to remove the attached leaf springs before loading it into the tin

RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

2010-08-26 Thread Green, Steven D

Not familiar with this name.   Torrington bearings, did they support or
surround the king pins?

 

Steve

1953 3100

 

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Ley
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 12:44 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

 

  

Back in the day, I drove a 48 Chevrolet COE wrecker. It used Torrington
Bearings in the front axle. It had a terrible habit of going into a wild
shimmy when you hit a moderate bump, so we took them out and replaced
them
with thrust washers. Found out that the steering effort doubled, so we
put
them back. When it began to shimmy, you just stopped and restarted
again.

Steve Ley

51 Chevrolet Canopy Express

s...@sprynet.com  

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 ] On Behalf Of Hanlon, Bill
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 6:37 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
Cc: jcgiff...@fltg.net  
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

BTW, there is a guy over on the OldGMCTrucks web site that is working on
putting Torrington bearings on the interface between the axle and the
steering knuckle. GMC Master Parts Book shows the 57 & 58 GMC 1/2 ton
front
axle came with a thrust bearing (part # 373476) at that point instead of
thrust washers as used in earlier 1/2 ton (F022) front axle assemblies.
That
bearing was apparently made from un-obtainium and is no longer
available. Or
maybe it was just an urban legend.

Anyway, here is a pointer to the discussion about using Torrington
bearings.
http://oldgmctrucks.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/633004236/m/776109227?
r=77
6109227#776109227
Jack (the guy that is doing this) is a machinist extraordinaire, so
doing
this yourself may require more tools and knowledge than it takes to run
a
flat file across the axle for additional clearance.


From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 

[mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
 ] On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2010 7:38 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 
 
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Task Force Front U-Bolt Nut SIZE Please ?

Hi guys (& Gals !) ;

At long last I have found a FREE 1958 Task Force front axle for the
Bendix
Brake upgrade on my '49 3100 , I'm to go fetch it in my son's Toyletta
pickup so I need to know ASAP what size deep socket to take along as
I'll
have to remove the attached leaf springs before loading it into the tiny
Japanese truck bed .

TIA ,

-Nate

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: save from crusher

2010-08-16 Thread Green, Steven D

But, remember $450 Canadian is only $431.37 (today) in US dollars..

Steve 

1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] 
On Behalf Of Brian Gray
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2010 4:54 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: save from crusher

Peter,
Please let me know about the Chevell's. I would like to know if there are clear 
title's too.Pictures would be great too.Hum $450 for each. I could do that.
Thanks,
Brian

--- On Mon, 8/16/10, Peter Peterson mailto:merkilegur%40yahoo.com> > wrote:

From: Peter Peterson mailto:merkilegur%40yahoo.com> >
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: save from crusher
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com  
Date: Monday, August 16, 2010, 3:08 PM

There is a slight chance I can stop in to see these trucks this coming Friday. 
If permitted I will take lots of photos to post to the group. If anyone has 
anything on their wish list let me know online or offline.  I will see if those 
trucks are available in Stoney Plain. I have not heard back from the fellow but 
I have sent him an email.
The crush weight value is $450 CDN if anyone else besides me missed that 
before. Cheap for a parts truck...
Peter in Calgary

--- On Wed, 8/11/10, don camley mailto:camd51%40yahoo.com> > 
wrote:

From: don camley mailto:camd51%40yahoo.com> >
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: save from crusher
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com  
Date: Wednesday, August 11, 2010, 6:31 PM

Am wondering if this is the stock parts of Iron Ghief company. Can't seem to 
find them anymore and they were in Stoney Plain, Alberta Which is a suburb of 
Edmonton Alta Canada. Hate to see all this old iron go to the crusher. Someone 
could make some money off this

 Don

--- On Tue, 8/10/10, Nate mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com> > 
wrote:

From: Nate mailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com> >

Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: save from crusher

To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com  

Received: Tuesday, August 10, 2010, 10:23 AM

YARRG...

Being in Canada , I bet it's mostly 6 bangers too =8-( .

-Nate

Mark wrote:

>

> All I can say is what I read-this guy wants to crush a whole pile of stuff.

> I see a 47-55 COE, lots of 47-59 trucks, some 60's trucks

> all mostly chevy/gmc

> http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=220600493&MessageId=MSG.VIEW_AD.REPLY_TO_AD_SENT&mpname=R2S&mpname=Activity-R2S&mpuid=1700203%3B122%3B220600493%3B-404162142%3B%3B&secev=AQAAASpRkloAAM0CACIxMmE1YWI4ZmViNi5hMjBiMjcyLjU1ODI1LmZmZmU2NTUzAA0mGK0BAgAa0nSAcDGwelACA1PrnRt%2BB0LniAqopcM*

> please save some iron if you are anywhere close.

> 

> im sure you could make a pretty good chunk of money selling individual pieces.

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 6 V Battery Questions

2010-07-21 Thread Green, Steven D

Nate:

OK, I have to ask.  Why do you suggest dumping the clutch when push
starting?  Isn't that more likely to damage the clutch disk?

Steve 

1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:old-chevy-tr...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nate
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 4:19 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 6 V Battery Questions

Cale ;

I see you know now that it's a BCI Group 1 battery .

Never , _EVER_ connect a 12 volt battery to your 6 volt vehicle unless
you want to buy a new fuel gauge and maybe generator & regulator too ,
all this will be _AFTER_ you're released from the hospital were they
tried to save your eyes after the 6 V battery exploded and splashed you
with acid...

FWIW , most hard starting and low charging issues are caused by wrong
battery cables , also incorrectly installed ~ first and foremost , they
*MUST* be # 0 or 1 gauge , this means thick like your index finger ,
about 2 X the size of your modern car's battery cables .

Secondly , the ground cable *MUST* be attached directly to the engine or
tranny , NOT the frame ! .

NAPA stores used to carry very good quality Group 1 batteries cheaply .

If worst comes to worst , you can always push start it in 2nd gear
(NEVER 1st. nor reverse!) with about 1/2 throttle , let the clutch out
with a bang , do not ease it out .

-Nate
Cale wrote:
>
> Hey all, the battery in my 51 1/2ton is able to start my truck, but
sounds weak if it needs to crank for more than 2-3 seconds. I'm planning
on going to the drive in this weekend which means running the radio off
the battery for several hours. I wanted to buy a back up battery in case
the truck won't start when the movie is over. I can't find any
identifying numbers on my current battery. I've also heard that you can
use a 12V battery without damage to the wiring or starter, it just
cranks the starter faster. If anyone has advice on 6V v. 12V and knows
the parts number for the battery I'd appreciate it. I just went to
O'Reilly's auto parts and the guy spent 1/2 hour looking through a book
to look at me and say "uhhh...I don't know." Also, I was thinking of
purchasing a battery charger to make sure it doesn't go dead in the
garage. Any advice on type or brand would be great. As usual, any help
appreciated.
> -cale
> Owensboro KY 
> 51 1/2 ton...216
>

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Top End Oiling

2007-12-19 Thread Green, Steven D

Geez:
I've seen those little plugs in the 235 heads for years and never knew
what they were good for.  (Remember some Y-block Fords with top oiler
kits added that required the supply line be slipped in under the valve
cover, which always looked like a poor solution.)
 
Seems Nate has probably forgotten more about these old motors that I'll
ever know.but I'll keep reading these posts
 
Steve
1953 3100
 



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of vwnate1
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:31 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Top End Oiling





Good deal Dave 

If it's been running over 5 minutes and still no oil to the top end , 
the oil passages between your late full pressure block and early Babbit 
Pounder head prolly don't line up . (I didn't know you could use an 
early head on a late block) 

As mentioned , there might be a wasp waisted bolt gone missing or in 
the wrong hole *but* there's a simple , GM APPROVED fix for this : run 
a 1/8" steel line around from the oil pressure port on the left rear 
middle of the block , around behind the engine and up to the 1/4" 
pipeplug in the dead center of the cylinder head , that's what it's 
there for ~ the early engines often clogged up the internal oil tube so 
they added this port especially for problems .

DO NOT use copper tubing ! I know it's cheap and easier to work with 
but it _will_ crack and leak in due time .

BTW : these engines (even the late 235 & 261) used by pass oiling for 
the rockers so only expect to see oil weeping out of the rocker's weep 
holes and maybe not any @ idle , it depends for each engine .

-Nate

OK She is running, it has 30 lbs pressure at the gauge. Checked
timing and dwell, perfect. The block is a 56 and the head is 53 so
maybe the oiling to the top is blocked? In the oil filter any ideas
for a filter number? I bought a fram canister, not quite right but it
is better then nothing. Next is brakes and change the fluid in the
rear end and start driving her.

Dave



 


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Company selling 235 on Web

2007-12-13 Thread Green, Steven D

I can't worry about learning Latin since I obviously never learned to
read English all that well.   I ass-umed the motor was "rebuilt" but as
Nate correctly pointed out, the listing did NOT say "rebuilt or
remanufactured."   Later in the day, I saw where someone apparently had
bought the engine for $495.   Hope that dude isn't sorry today.

Steve
1953 3100

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of vwnate1
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 9:50 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Company selling 235 on Web

Sadly I didn't really learn it well , I know a couple more sayings but 
I usually mis - spell them .

-Nate

Nic Illigitimus Carborendum

Richard wrote:
>
> Where did you learn latin, down on the farm
> R Reul
> 1951 3604
> 

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Company selling 235 on Web

2007-12-11 Thread Green, Steven D

 
To:  235 Wisemen:
 
Does anyone know the company Fliteline that is advertising a 1953
rebuilt 235 longblock on that nameless site on the web?
item=130182313784
 
 
What is the reputation of the seller?  I am guessing this is a splasher
235 and wonder will the manifold, dizzy, draft tube, water pump, rocker
shaft, etc. from a full-pressure 235 work on this engine??
 
Steve
1953 3100 


 
 
 


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Two 261's in NE Kansas

2007-11-19 Thread Green, Steven D

Jeff:
 
I am in Lawrence and would be interested in more info about those 261
engines.
 
Thanks
 
Steve Green
 



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Hanson
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 12:06 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Two 261's in NE Kansas



My recently acquired 261 is at the machine shop getting
cooked prelminary to a rebuild. My mechanic made some calls to see if 
there might be some donor engines around in case we needed parts
later. He found two still in the old trucks. the asking price for the 
motors is $200 each. I'll check them out (in the next couple days) if 
any one is interested. 

Jeff Hanson New owner of an Old Chevy P/U



 


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Tire Jack, Lug wrench

2006-12-14 Thread Green, Steven D

I believe I have one of these tool sets??? But found it in the trunk of
my wife's, uncle's '68 Impala with other assorted (I thought) junk.
Fortunately I kept it intact.  There was NO cardboard box but its the
same canvas bag and the same set of tools pictured on the auction site.
The one I found is not rusty.

Was this set only provided with or for the AD trucks?

Has anybody got a picture of what the bumper jack and handle look like,
just in case I accidentally have that too.  

Thanks,

Steve 
1953 3100
   and 
1968 Impala  (w/ trunk full of goodies)

From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of fxdl952000
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 6:14 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Tire Jack, Lug wrench

Thanks Roy...check out e-bay, the tool kit is up now. Maybe NOS, 
looks to be anyway.. (copy paste to your browser)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1949-1954-Chevrolet-GM-Accessory-Tool-

Kit-PN-
986362_W0QQitemZ200057612622QQihZ010QQcategoryZ42606QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewI
tem

Thanks again,
Rusty

--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 , "rmarks10" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Yes, they did and I understand they used the same ones through the 
50's. I haven't seen any in the vendor's catalogs but they pop up 
occasionally on auction sites. They also stocked a tool kit encased 
in a canvas pouch. Contained a couple of wrenches, a spanner, 
screwdriver and a hammer. Neat old stuff.
> 
> Roy
> - Original Message - 
> From: fxdl952000 
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 11:08 AM
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Tire Jack, Lug wrench
> 
> 
> Happy Holidays all...
> A thought came to mind (dangerous stuff, I know!) Did Chevy 
stock the 
> older 1/2 tonners (1950) with a tire tool and jack? If so 
anybody have 
> a picture or know a supplier? On the same lines and if not, what 
are 
> you all using with your truck to let's say, stay old, original 
and 
> dated?
> Thanks,
> Rusty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Gauge Refacing Kit

2006-10-13 Thread Green, Steven D

I expected them to work like model car decals but they are sticky right
off the backing paper, while still dry.  Seems adding water would
muck-up the process??   I just don't want them peeling off on the first
100 degree day, because I did 'em wrong.
 
Thanks
 



From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alan Lubow
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 12:05 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Gauge Refacing Kit



Remember the decals you used to put on your model planes and rockets
when you were a kid? They're like that.

Alan
'50 Chevy 1/2 ton
Denver
- Original Message - 
From: K Ohlgren 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com>  
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 10:34 AM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Gauge Refacing Kit

the water alows you to reposition the stickers
standard operating proceedure

Kurt
58 3100 Apache project
the "Duracell Project" it keeps going... and going...

>From: "Green, Steven D" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:sgreen%40ku.edu> >
>Reply-To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> 
>To: mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com> >
>Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Gauge Refacing Kit
>Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2006 11:16:58 -0500
>
>
>I bought a gauge refacing kit for my '53 3100. The material appears to
>be self-adhesive stickers but the instructions say to wet them and to
>wet the gauge plates before installing over sanded, repainted surfaces.
>
>Anybody used these with good results? With or without moisture?
>
>Thanks
>

__
Be seen and heard with Windows Live Messenger and Microsoft LifeCams 
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme002001msn/direct/01/?href=http:/
/www.microsoft.com/hardware/digitalcommunication/default.mspx?locale=en-
us&source=hmtagline
<http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme002001msn/direct/01/?href=http:
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-us&source=hmtagline> 

--

No virus found in this incoming message.
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10/13/2006

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Gauge Refacing Kit

2006-10-13 Thread Green, Steven D

 
I bought a gauge refacing kit for my '53 3100.  The material appears to
be self-adhesive stickers but the instructions say to wet them and to
wet the gauge plates before installing over sanded, repainted surfaces.
 
Anybody used these with good results?  With or without moisture?
 
Thanks
 




 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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[old-chevy-truck] RE: Lost in Cyberspace

2006-08-03 Thread Green, Steven D

Old Chevy Group:
 


 I seem to have gotten accidentally unsubscribed or missed some
notice to renew?  My last message from the group was July 19th
 
How do I get back on board?
 
Steve
1953 3100

 
 



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RE: [Spam:0007 SpamScore] Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Vibration at slow pull

2006-07-17 Thread Green, Steven D

Nate or anyone:

Where exactly is the 'Oakie' bushing?  Is it inside the torque tube?

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom C
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 9:45 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Spam:0007 SpamScore] Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re:
Vibration at slow pull

Thanks very much, Nate. I'll check this out and see if
anything's loose. That little gremlin is hiding in there somewhere, and
maybe I can squeeze him out with a little tightening. I appreciate the
info.
Tom Caperton
'47-2nd Series ... in Whiteville, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  

- Original Message - 
From: vwnate1 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, July 14, 2006 11:28 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Vibration at slow pull

Gotta open up the ball and have a look , it'll be pretty obvious

once you have it apart in your hand .

Occasionally the small bolts holding the U-joint to the output
yoke 
back out and cause this vibration , replace them if they're
loose or 
mis matched .

I'd also think the Oakie bushing to be highly suspect as the #1
sign
of wear there is vibration .

Lay a wrench to the motor mounts to ensure they're tight , never
can 
trust looking at them . 

-Nate
Tom wrote:
>
> Thanks, Nate. A couple of people mentioned a bad U-joint can 
cause the vibration. How can you tell if a U-joint is bad??
> 
> I've checked the motor mounts, and they "look" fine. How can
you 
tell if they're causing a problem? 
> Tom 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] SWMBO and Trucks

2006-05-24 Thread Green, Steven D

Forgot what SWMBO stood for??

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of rmarks10
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 7:43 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] SWMBO and Trucks

Too true about the wives and the old junker. When I first got my truck
the wife expressed serious doubt and asked "Where ya gonna put that?"
When I ripped it down to the frame she expressed doubt it would ever be
put back together. I took a lot heat for smelling like transmission oil
and coming in the house covered with rust and dust. Today she asks "Can
we take the truck?"

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[old-chevy-truck]

2006-04-17 Thread Green, Steven D


I never save the right posts, as I know this was discussed before...
--

I want to update the rear end in my 1953 3100.  The two used
differentials I have on hand are from: 

   1977 Nova 305V8-auto
   1987 Chev C10 4.3V-6 3speed manual.

Question #1--is either rear end compatible?  Which rear end makes more
sense to use on the 1953? (I have 235-4-speed).   

Question #2--Can I and if so, how do I get my existing 1953 4-speed
coupled up with the new rear-end?   Assume I must find a two-piece
driveshaft?

Any advice appreciated.

Steve
1953 3100


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: Infamous AD Pickup

2006-03-30 Thread Green, Steven D


Nick:

I share your sentiment about the orientation of the movie but I have to
admire the high-school kid who reportedly put this thing on e-bay to
bank some money to finance his education.  As of a few minutes ago the
bidding was up to $29,100 with six hours to go.

Steve
1953 3100  

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nick's Yahoo
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 4:57 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: Infamous AD Pickup


Sorry:  Once I knew the gist of this movie, I could care less about the 
trucks they filmed.  Bullshit Hollywood!!!

Nick K.
51 261 3100
74 454 Vette
Oak Island NC

- Original Message - 
From: "Scott Mountney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ; 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: Infamous AD Pickup


> Steven,
> Some guys on the list may remember I sent a "review" of the film last 
> year.I declared it one of the "greatest pickup movies ever". 
> Seriously though, the film was loaded with nice pickups and quite a 
> few
> not so nice ones rotting on the side of the road.
> I was saying if you were "curious" about pickups,  (not that there is 
> nothing wrong with that) you should see the movie.   You can always
tell 
> your buddies, hey, I was checking out the trucks!
>
> Scott
>
> ____________
>
> From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Green, Steven D
> Sent: Wed 3/29/2006 11:18 AM
> To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: Infamous AD Pickup
>
>
>
> All:
>
> Found this vehicle on the anonymous site as item 4625292939.  It was 
> up to $16,300 with one more day to go.
>
>
> College hopes ride on film truck
>
>
>
> TORONTO, Canada (Reuters) -- A half-ton pick-up truck used in the 
> award-winning gay Western "Brokeback Mountain" is up for sale, and the

> seller, a Canadian high school student, hopes the proceeds will help 
> pay his way through college.
>
> Matthew Kennedy said he bought the black, 1950 GMC truck last year at 
> an auction of vehicles used in the movie because he liked its looks, 
> and only decided to sell when he realized the amount of attention the 
> film was garnering.
>
> "The movie was getting a lot bigger and I thought I could sell it and 
> put away the money for school," he said.
>
> Kennedy's eBay description of the vehicle says it was driven by Jack 
> Twist, played by Jake Gyllenhaal, when he meets Ennis Del Mar, played 
> by Heath Ledger, at the start of the film.
>
> Bidding has reached $15,000 so far, almost double the $8,000 starting 
> price, fueled by the ties to the film.
>
> The movie, centering on the furtive love affair between two cowboys, 
> was shot in the Alberta foothills, south of Calgary.
>
> "The only thing I knew about the movie was that it was being filmed in

> my area and it was a cowboy movie," he said.
>
> Murray Ord, executive producer at Alberta Film Entertainment, said 
> it's standard procedure to sell film gear post-production. "Whether it

> be furniture, props, anything we purchased, we try to recoup the 
> cost," he said.
>
> Murray Pomerance, a sociologist and author of several books about 
> cinema compared the pickup truck with items such as Dorothy's shoes 
> from "The Wizard of Oz" and prosthetic masks from "Star Trek."
>
> "With certain films that are distinctive in one way or another...this 
> desire to imbed oneself in the context of the film is huge," he said.
>
> "We're actually taking the truck and marketing it. Young people want 
> to play at being characters ... they're going to want to drive that 
> truck ... it's the ultimate way to play the game."
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
>
> To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the 
> email),
> to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
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[old-chevy-truck] RE: Infamous AD Pickup

2006-03-29 Thread Green, Steven D

 All:
 
Found this vehicle on the anonymous site as item 4625292939.  It was up
to $16,300 with one more day to go.
 

College hopes ride on film truck 



TORONTO, Canada (Reuters) -- A half-ton pick-up truck used in the
award-winning gay Western "Brokeback Mountain" is up for sale, and the
seller, a Canadian high school student, hopes the proceeds will help pay
his way through college. 

Matthew Kennedy said he bought the black, 1950 GMC truck last year at an
auction of vehicles used in the movie because he liked its looks, and
only decided to sell when he realized the amount of attention the film
was garnering. 

"The movie was getting a lot bigger and I thought I could sell it and
put away the money for school," he said. 

Kennedy's eBay description of the vehicle says it was driven by Jack
Twist, played by Jake Gyllenhaal, when he meets Ennis Del Mar, played by
Heath Ledger, at the start of the film. 

Bidding has reached $15,000 so far, almost double the $8,000 starting
price, fueled by the ties to the film. 

The movie, centering on the furtive love affair between two cowboys, was
shot in the Alberta foothills, south of Calgary. 

"The only thing I knew about the movie was that it was being filmed in
my area and it was a cowboy movie," he said. 

Murray Ord, executive producer at Alberta Film Entertainment, said it's
standard procedure to sell film gear post-production. "Whether it be
furniture, props, anything we purchased, we try to recoup the cost," he
said. 

Murray Pomerance, a sociologist and author of several books about cinema
compared the pickup truck with items such as Dorothy's shoes from "The
Wizard of Oz" and prosthetic masks from "Star Trek." 

"With certain films that are distinctive in one way or another...this
desire to imbed oneself in the context of the film is huge," he said. 

"We're actually taking the truck and marketing it. Young people want to
play at being characters ... they're going to want to drive that truck
... it's the ultimate way to play the game."



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Springs

2006-02-27 Thread Green, Steven D



A while back there was a thread going on leaf springs.  

I am rebuilding the front end on a 1953 3100.  Took it apart yesterday.
My front springs need bushings but otherwise look good--no broken leaves
etc. and front end height was even from side to side prior to
disassembly.  Are they OK to reinstall?

I recall it was mentioned you can send springs out for "re-arching"?
But on 53-year-old springs on a truck of unknown mileage, do I need to
buy new?

Don't have excess money to spend but would rather be safe?

The good advice of the group will be appreciated.


Thanks

 


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Lifters & Intake rings

2006-02-03 Thread Green, Steven D

Asking advice.  On a running 235 with low oil pressure and noisy hyd
lifters.  Can you switch to solid lifters or do you have to change out
both cam and lifters?   Is the camshaft lift any different for hydraulic
vs. solid lifters?

Steve
1953 3100

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jones, Allen
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:42 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Lifters & Intake rings

Amen to "not re-grounds".  I tried reground lifters...what a mistake...
Fortunately, that's something relatively easy to correct.

Allen
'50 3100

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of vwnate1
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 6:30 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Valve Lifters & Intake rings

Yes , I'd say scrap the hydrauilc lifters as they rob a great deal of
poower even when working correctly .

DO NOT install used lifters ! NEW ONLY ! NOT re-grounds .

The 216 intake on a 235 head and noi alignment rings this is this : 
it'll almost _certainly_ have vacuum leaks .

-Nate
 Tim  wrote:
>
> 
> > >>>would you suggest that I swap out the hydraulics
> out for solid lifters? Thanks...for some reason I just got this
> message.
> Thanks Tim

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Loss of Oil Pressure - Pt.5

2005-12-02 Thread Green, Steven D

Just adding 2-cents worth?

What position is the pickup sump set at?   Had sort-of-similar trouble
once on a 235. Somebody told me to add another quart of oil.  When I
did, I suddenly had oil pressure.

Had to pull the pan and reset the position of the sump.

Steve
1953 3100

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of K M Lehmann
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 3:43 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Loss of Oil Pressure - Pt.5


Nick Don't give up yet, we are pretty well satisfied your pump is  OK,
even if you crossthread all the fittings you will still get oil flow.
There is no reason to pull oil pan yet. I would be a good idea to run
the drill again and see how slow you can turn it and still hold some
press. If the pickup is submerged and you turn the pump you are going to
get oil somewhere. While your at it measure the distance the tool goes
down from the block where the dist sits to bottom of the slot on the oil
pump shaft, than compare this with your dist which should not be more
than 1/8" less. Are we having fun yet? Lee
- Original Message - 
From: "Nick Kowalchuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 11:33 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Loss of Oil Pressure - Pt.5


> Okay, changed out the oil filter.  Nothing on the gauge.  Disconnected

> the
Oil Filter IN line.  Fired the engine.  Nothing came out of the hose or
the filter. (Did that to test the direction theory.  I'm betting that if
I pull the distributor and spin the pump up I will get something out of
the hose. After our discussions I guess a drill is actually spinning the
oil pump faster than the cam would and maybe thats why I get dribs and
drabs with the drill.  So I believe the problem is somewhere on the Oil
Pump (output to the block tube or something).  That pipe was tight when
I replaced the Oil Pump but who knows.  I'm hoping its not that pipe
because I believe it is 7/16" tubing with compression fittings.  That
ain't gonna be easy to find.
>
>   Since I get nauseous laying on my back under vehicles these days, I
refuse to pull the pan for the third time.  I will be calling my local
shop to see if they can come and get it and get it up on a lift to pull
the pan.
>
>   So.I quit!  I'll let everyone know the outcome when and if we 
> find
something.
>
>   Thanks for all the support.
>
>   Nick K.
>   51 261 3100
>   74 454 Vette
>   Oak Island NC
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
>
> To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the 
> email),
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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 235 & Hydraulic Lifters

2005-10-03 Thread Green, Steven D

On the subject of top oiling on 235's, I worked for an old mechanic (in
the 70's) who used to grind a groove the entire length of the center RH
headbolt when reassembling these engines, claiming it improved oiling to
the rocker arms.

Fact or myth?

Steve 
1953 3100

-
-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jones, Allen
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 9:59 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 235 & Hydraulic Lifters

Two other things to consider.  Oil supply to the rocker arms changed
from year to year depending on tappet design and head design.  Make sure
you have the right supply to your rocker arms.  Second, I have not been
able to find a reliable source of hydraulic lifters for any 235/261.
What's out there lasts for about 20,000 miles and then poops out.  A
real quality problem.  That why I always build with solids.

Allen
'55 3100
'48 5000 

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of vwnate1
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 8:35 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 235 & Hydraulic Lifters

Don't do it ! the oiling system of the 235 isn't up to the job ~ several
changes were made to the block and etc. to try and make this work but
all 235's with hydraulic tappets wind up clattering like a brass band
and loss of power too .

It's an old tech design , don't screw it up .

-Nate
  Nick   wrote:
> Maybe with the Hydramatic Trans.  I have a 59 261 with solids.
> 
> Nick K.
> 51 261 3100
> 74 454 Vette
> Oak Island NC
> - Original Message -
> From: "James Tye" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 10:02 AM
> Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Hydraulic Lifters
> 
> 
> > 58 had them in everything.  I've heard you can run a mechanical
lifter but 
> > I'd rather have a mechanical cam.  Mechanical lifters I can
adjust but I 
> > can't seem to get hydraulics.  I had to stop at Casey's on the
way to 
> > Kansas City just after an oil change and add STP.  That quieted
it down 
> > alittle so I could finish the trip.  The lifters collapse as the
viscosity 
> > in the oil breaks down from the heat.  You'd have to do a 10 mile
run to 
> > get the engine the  right temperature where they need adjusted
but most of 
> > my driving is 2-3 mile stints and It runs great then.
> >
> > ChevyAd54 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I don't think Chevrolet put
> > hydraulic lifters in Trucks until they came out with the 230 engine 
> > in 62 or 63 the cars had them in 53 or 54 but not trucks my 62 261 
> > came with
solid
> > lifters.
> > But I am going with Memory so I could be wrong.
> >
> > ChevyAD54
> > 1954 Chevrolet 1/2 Ton P/U 
> > http://webpages.charter.net/bairdr/RobertsTruck.htm
> > http://client.webshots.com/album/281671396CkDmgf
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> >>Does anybody know what year Chevy started using hydraulic lifters
in their
> >>pick-up 235 sixes? Thought I'd try experts on list before taking
off my 
> >>side
> >>cover. Thanks.
> >>Virgil 53 3100 (w/57 235)
> >>
> >>
> >>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
> >
> > To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the
email), 
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Those who make peaceful revolution impossible make violent
revolution 
> > inevitible.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
> >
> > To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the
email), 
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> >

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Chevy Cab

2005-05-31 Thread Green, Steven D


I just did mine a week ago.  

My truck frame was stripped of the everything forward of the
cab--sheetmetal, engine, etc.  The cab itself was stripped of everything
except the wiper motor and rear window.  I got 3 young guys to help and
we moved mine straight forward and off the frame onto a dolly I made
with ideas off this list.  

IMO, with fewer hands, it'd be an awkward thing to manage.  It'd also be
real difficult (I think) if you had to move it sideways to get it off
the frame?

Steve 
1953 3100

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 1:56 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] 48 Chevy Cab


well... My 82 yr old dad and myself moved it, buy it would have been a
lot easier with 4 people. Make SURE you brace the cab.

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Ricketson
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 1:46 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 48 Chevy Cab


I've been reading the posts about removing the AD cab.  One of these
days, I'll be taking mine off the frame.Just wondering if anyone knows
the weight of an empty cab?? 48 Thriftmaster




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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Welder recommendations

2005-05-25 Thread Green, Steven D

Casey:

I bought a cheap wire-feed welder from Harbor Freight.  I give it two
(2) thumbs-down.  It does a fair job of feeding wire on the first half
roll--if I constantly readjust the feed roller pressure.

A while back there was a thread going on those who preferred to body
repair welding using a torch and thin coat hangars.  I never read what
any of them used for flux?

Steve 1953 3100--that needs cab corners  

-Original Message-
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of fffinc_casey
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 2:55 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Welder recommendations


Well I've searched the archives, and with so many references to 
welding, I'll just start a new thread.
As with so many things in life, one thing leads to another, and now I 
think I need to buy an inexpensive welding setup for truck stuff, along 
with other odds and ends. 
I've looked at Lincoln's line of 120V welders, and their 135 model 
looks like a good all-around system. I like the notion of a 120V even 
with the inherent cycle drawbacks, simply because of portability. I 
can't imagine the service cycle issue getting in the way of what I'd 
use it for.
Any firsthand recommendations, stories, problems, etc. would be 
appreciated.
Thanks
Casey





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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Cab Dolly?

2005-05-12 Thread Green, Steven D


I have the cab ready to remove from the frame of my '53 3100.  I need to
move it off so I can repair the cab corners.

Someone on this site either mentioned a homemade cab dolly or cab cart
or showed one on their webpage.  With it they moved their cab around the
shop and outside for blasting.

Any ideas on what I can buy or build?




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RE: [old-chevy-truck] It only goes clunk when it rains.

2005-03-22 Thread Green, Steven D



I was thinking there might be problems in the same region of the
suspension.  Mine had loose rivets that secured the rear spring hangar
on the LF side to the frame.  (all the others were tight) After I
removed the front axle and leaf springs, it was apparent this bracket
was loose and had been moving around for quite some time.

Steve
1953 3100 

-Original Message-
From: Larry R. Kephart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 3:14 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] It only goes clunk when it rains.



Broken spring leaf maybe? 


Larry Kephart
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
1991 Jeep Wrangler (Renegade)
1993 Chrysler Concorde (BettyLou)
Boca Raton, Florida
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/1998/billybob.htm


-Original Message-
From: Mike Thayer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 3:17 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] It only goes clunk when it rains.



I've been chasing this little rascal for the better part of three years
now (And 10,000 miles). I have an annoying and alarming "Clunk" when I
make a turn of more than 30 degrees (turning into a driveway, or parking
lot) And it only does it when it is raining, or standing water on the
road. I thought it might be a kingpin, and replaced those several years
ago. It seemed to have worked, but caught up with me again after several
months. Lubing the heck out of the front end seemed to work as well,
mitigating the infernal pest, so that when it went 'clunk', it was time
for lube. But now it does it whenever it rains and I make a turn, and
greasing everything doesn't seem to help. I can feel it in the pedals as
it happens. It doesn't matter if its a right or left turn, and it seems
to be from the front left. Any suggestions?

Mike
'51 235 3100
Jacksonville FL






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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Brake Spoon

2005-03-17 Thread Green, Steven D




This discussion of the 'brake spoon' reminds me of my recent trip to the
FLAPS to buy among other items, a 'tack rag.'

The juvenile behind the counter didn't know what it was and looked at me
like I was some senile, old __rt.  Then the delivery girl told him what
it was and showed him where they were stocked..

Steve 
1953 3100


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: TF door adjustment

2005-03-16 Thread Green, Steven D

Allen:

I see your address indicates SD State.  That's in Vermillion, right?
Met some facilities guys from there about 5 year ago...

Your comment about "shrinking and expanding the cab opening struck a
nerve.  I have an AD (1953) cab where the driver's door does not fit the
opening--mine needs expansion.  Assuming one wants the striker side to
move, how do you move it a small amount; safely?

Steve
1953 3100

-Original Message-
From: JONES, ALLEN [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 8:47 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: TF door adjustment

If you're in the throws of a restoration, I suggest that you fit the
doors up prior to painting.  I first did a chiropractic adjustment on
the doors for skin fitment (long 2x4s work good), followed by shrinking
and expanding the cab opening and door for a consistent gap.  The later
is only needed for looks, not functionality.  For fitment, shrink the
door opening in areas that need it (a myriad of techniques can be used
from hack to finesse), and expand or shrink the door edges in areas that
appropriately need it as well.  That is the only way that I know of to
get a consistent gap around the entire door.  It took me about 4 weeks
to fit my two doors up until I got a consistent 3/32" gap all the way
around the three sides of the door (the bottom doesn't matter).  I
realize this process is probably for the anal restorer, but it does look
good in final form, and of course solid hinges are needed.  It's
interesting that it's easier to fit these doors up during a restoration
that it does for restorations on 70 to 80+ models.  For some reason,
IMO, sheet metal fit from the factory took a serious dive in the late
60s through the 70s.

Allen
'50 3100

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 8:08 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: TF door adjustment

Something interesting to note relating to this topic, is that I have
collected quite a few door strikers over the years and there are at
least two different types that I know of. I'm not sure of the exact year
when the switch was made, but early Task Force trucks had strikers that
were made from a single piece of stamped steel, where later models had
strikers that were two piece designs with a plate rivited on the top of
the striker. I'll take a picture of the two latches tonight and post
them. If anyone knows the year in which this switch was made, please let
us know for restoration reasons.

Relating to door alignment on TF trucks, I have seen many $20,000 trucks
with doors that have at least a 1/2 inch gap between the door edge and
the front windshield where the pillar post curves into the hood area.
Aligning the doors is no easy task, but following the steps in the shop
manual should provide very satisfactory results.

Keeping it original

Rich Kinas
1959 Chevrolet Fleetside
Orlnado, FL

- Original Message -
From: Dan Robinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 10:11 am
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: TF door adjustment

> 
> Nate is correct on this one.  But for those that have not gotten that
> far this link might be of help 
> http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/doorlatch.php
> Found it among a host of fine links here 
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/index.htm
> A page worth bookmarking.
> Dan
> 
> vwnate1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> STOP NOW .
> 
> -Nate
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> > the door closes nicely and
> > seals all around. any suggestions ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
> 
> To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
> 
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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Radiator Support

2004-12-09 Thread Green, Steven D



It appears the PO cut up the radiator support on my '53 3100, probably
to get clearance for an engine removal, and now it's a U-shaped unit.

Guess this could this explain why my front fenders had "spread" and
didn't meet up with the hood at the front like they should?

I am guessing there should be a piece across the top, in front of the
top radiator tank.  Also appears this one might have had some 3/8" or
5/16" rods welded to the front of the support, in a cross pattern, in
front of the radiator core.  There are cut-off stubs remaining.

Can anyone point me to a good picture of what this should look like?

Steve 
1953 3100


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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Timing L:ight stalls engine

2004-12-02 Thread Green, Steven D

Doesn't the red attach to the + side of the battery, not the coil?

-Original Message-
From: Mike Thayer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 4:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Timing L:ight stalls engine

All;
Getting prepared to replace lifters on a 235 (They finally sent them 
out today!) and wanted to make sure everything was set. Adjusted 
dwell to 33 and next step is the timing light. Loosened the 
distributor, and started up. Distributer must have slipped some as 
it had a really hard time starting. Could practically turn the whole 
assembly 90 degrees.
Thankfully, I remember the approximate location of where it was 
located before, tightened it up, and runs fine.
Have the thick black lead to #1, (Two springs, one to plug, the 
other into the plug wire) red clip to coil on the distributor side, 
and black clip to ground. Moment I hit the strobe light switch, the 
engine stalls.
What am I missing?

Mike T
'51 3100

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3/4 Ton Driveshafts

2004-11-18 Thread Green, Steven D


Nate:

I like the idea of upgrading the 1/2t torque tube as described.  I have
a '77 Nova rear axle.  Can you also suggest a donor driveshaft that
might be a direct bolt-on?

SDG

-Original Message-
From: vwnate1 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2004 12:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 3/4 Ton Driveshafts





It might not be clear to some here how this odd setup works : 

on the 3/4 ton rigs , there is a short Torque Tube running form the 
back of the tranny to a stardard center support bearing mounted on 
the frame cross member and from the center support bearing to the 
pumpkin is a normal , open driveshaft with Spicer typ U-joints on 
each end of that ~ a horribly and needlessly complex bit of 
engineering as GM figured out by 1954 when they dropped it , adding 
a seal to the back of the SM420 tranny then a normal yoke and 
extending the driveshaft a bit , this looks like to-day's trucks and 
you can use this rear SM420 tranny cover as fitted from '54 ~ '67 to 
easily convert your 1/2 ton rig to open joints when you're upgrading 
the rear axle to that free Ford 9" or Nova 3.72 unit you salvaged 
from your drunken brother in law's wrecked hot rod .


Driving from California shouldn't be any problem apart from the time 
required , I just found a $300.00 261 engine in TEXAS , I wish I had 
the time as I'd surely love the trip in my AD .



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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RE: [old-chevy-truck] truck headboard bumper guard no shipping? Richardson,TX

2004-09-22 Thread Green, Steven D



Is that grille guard really a "rare" item?

I have one of these on my '53.   But the one pictured on e-bay appears
to be missing a  small 3x5 (approx) plate in the center where the main
bars bolt together.  

On mine I think the brand name and city where it was manufactured are
embossed on the plate--"SMASH-HIT and Oklahoma City".

Guess whoever buys/bids ought to ask how the thing bolts together in the
center, as I believe there is a piece missing?

Steve Green 
Lawrence KS

1953 3100

-Original Message-
From: peterdalbymiddleton [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2004 4:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] truck headboard bumper guard no shipping?
Richardson,TX



http://tinyurl.com/65rbr

the seller is in Richardson,TX and he may not ship as he canceled my 
bid when I aasked about shipping. I think he will relist if you are 
local to him?
Regards Pete



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