[RBW] Re: 2 shellac methods
Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2 shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A! On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote: I just noticed this for the first time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiPcpnylK-4feature=channel --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivlike BIkes
I'm sure that was a mistake On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2 shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A! On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote: I just noticed this for the first time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiPcpnylK-4feature=channel --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
John, Welcome aboard and you have my admiration for diving into the bicycle assembly business. It should certainly accomplish your goal of knowing how everything on your bicycle goes together. Much easier to fix something in the middle of no-where when you are the mechanic that assembled it. I have tried, and in some cases succeeded, in making older French parts work on my Rivendells. I do agree with Jim, more modern components are much less of a hastle. For example, I have Simplex and Huret front derailleurs that work fine for a double chainring set up- but do not have the range to handle a tripple (tripples were less common back in the day). A Huret Duo-Par rear derailleur used on a horizontal dropout is fine, used with verticle dropouts - the rear wheel is virtually impossible to remove without removing the derailleur...DOH! The other issue is that some of the French components use different dimensions (headsets...) or threads. I have a lovely old Huret shifter that has a courser thread on the shifter retaining bolt (will not thread into my bikes shifter bosses). Angus On Jan 10, 11:35 pm, John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi all, First time on here, and it's my first time building a bike from the frame up. I'm hoping someone here can help, as I'm a complete neophyte. I've been riding an older (cheap) French bike for the past 10 years and finally took the plunge and bought a Rivendell Saluki. Frame only, of course--I could have taken the easy way out and gotten a completed bike, but since I'm going to be traveling long distances on this bike, I figured I needed to build it myself so I know how everything goes together. I'm in the process of acquiring components; I think I have most everything figured out, except for the following: I have a Simplex SLJ5500 rear derailleur and an SLJ front derailleur from my old bike. However, I can't figure out with a high degree of confidence what an appropriate range would be for the chainwheels and the cassette/freewheel. Unfortunately I sold my old bike without counting teeth. I'm planning on taking very long rides, sometimes multi-day, and I'm hoping to enter some formal randonneur events this year. Anyone have advice for me? Anything would be appreciated; I've spent many hours trying to figure this out. Thanks! John --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivlike BIkes
Well it's back to Rivlike Bike now but how on earth could this happen? On 11 Jan, 13:06, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote: I'm sure that was a mistake On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2 shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A! On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote: I just noticed this for the first time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiPcpnylK-4feature=channel- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Nitto Big Rear Rack
Just for the record, I don't own the current model of Nitto rear rack that Rivendell designate as Big Back Rack. But I did recently buy a similar rack witch I think is the older version with out the extra truss support like this one: http://home.earthlink.net/~dangoldenberg/images/Atlantisfall.jpg It was referred to as Nitto R20 by the shop and on the bag it says MT Campee Mountain (Rear). It measure 33cm from the lower hole straight up to the underside of the platform. This is 2cm shorter than the Tubus Cargo small (for 26 wheels) and 3cm shorter than the Tubus Vega I have on my other bikes. So I'm quite confident in saying that it was made to fit frames with 559mm/26 wheels. I'm sure there are lots of folks here that have been able to fit it to bikes with both 584/650B and 622/700c wheels too but that is what the numbers indicate. What I dont understand is why Riv tell you there are only one size? Their site say Two versions: Medium, for frames up to about 57cm; and Big, for frames bigger than that but question is how these two differs? Either way it's been on the market for many years so you can't be the first to run in to these issues. I think Rivendell site should at least state that they are low and told you this when you called them as they make claim to the design. I would recommend you to return it and buy a stainless Tubus or the another Nitto rack also called Campee. I would guess it's a bit taller and better suited to your frame: http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=874zenid=11386daec2e62989fb33c8a8c9322854 http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=2290zenid=11386daec2e62989fb33c8a8c9322854 On 11 Jan, 04:01, mok ms...@comcast.net wrote: Thanks. I asked Rivendell. That was the only size that rack comes in, so I was going to have a SS piece machined by one of my customers, but I think I will give that a try. Take care, Mok On Jan 10, 6:43 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: Welcome Mok! I'm a newbie here too but been tinkering with bikes as long I can remember. My guess is that you have the wrong size of the rack. Only solution I can see is raise it a bit by using a Tubus Lower Rack Mounting Kit or similar. But the kit rely on two mounting holes so you may have to rework it a bit:http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/FIT%20SOLUTIONS%... On 10 Jan, 04:24, mok ms...@comcast.net wrote: Hello all, I am a newbie to the site. I just received my above rack. It looks wonderful and solid. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had the same issue I am having. The top of the rear SKS fender, which I bought here, hits the bottom of the rack. It is on the upper eyelet, and it is all level, but it still hits just a bit to much. I would like to raise the fender just a bit to get better tire clearence. I was wondering if they (or anyone) makes an adapter or something to actually raise the rear rack vertically. I could alway rigs something from a custom piece of SS, but I would like to use what was made for this if at all. I appreciate any advise and comments on this. Happy New Year to all. Mok- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
I collect French parts but do not have any on my bikes currently. Some day I might try and make a classic French rando with some. That is a project far on the back burner though. As the others have pointed out, old French parts even in good shape can be fussy when paired with modern components. The basic shape of bicycle components may be the same, but there are enough differences to make getting them to work together a chore. (now if you are using all antique components - that is a different story) While Riv has some good Shimano stuff, for the front derailer anyway, in my opinion the swell little Campagnolo triple der Riv sells is as good as anything you can get for what the OP says he is trying to do. Competitively priced too. On Jan 11, 6:06 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: John, Welcome aboard and you have my admiration for diving into the bicycle assembly business. It should certainly accomplish your goal of knowing how everything on your bicycle goes together. Much easier to fix something in the middle of no-where when you are the mechanic that assembled it. I have tried, and in some cases succeeded, in making older French parts work on my Rivendells. I do agree with Jim, more modern components are much less of a hastle. For example, I have Simplex and Huret front derailleurs that work fine for a double chainring set up- but do not have the range to handle a tripple (tripples were less common back in the day). A Huret Duo-Par rear derailleur used on a horizontal dropout is fine, used with verticle dropouts - the rear wheel is virtually impossible to remove without removing the derailleur...DOH! The other issue is that some of the French components use different dimensions (headsets...) or threads. I have a lovely old Huret shifter that has a courser thread on the shifter retaining bolt (will not thread into my bikes shifter bosses). Angus On Jan 10, 11:35 pm, John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi all, First time on here, and it's my first time building a bike from the frame up. I'm hoping someone here can help, as I'm a complete neophyte. I've been riding an older (cheap) French bike for the past 10 years and finally took the plunge and bought a Rivendell Saluki. Frame only, of course--I could have taken the easy way out and gotten a completed bike, but since I'm going to be traveling long distances on this bike, I figured I needed to build it myself so I know how everything goes together. I'm in the process of acquiring components; I think I have most everything figured out, except for the following: I have a Simplex SLJ5500 rear derailleur and an SLJ front derailleur from my old bike. However, I can't figure out with a high degree of confidence what an appropriate range would be for the chainwheels and the cassette/freewheel. Unfortunately I sold my old bike without counting teeth. I'm planning on taking very long rides, sometimes multi-day, and I'm hoping to enter some formal randonneur events this year. Anyone have advice for me? Anything would be appreciated; I've spent many hours trying to figure this out. Thanks! John --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
The only bars I've broken has been crashes prior to this and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000 series alu too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue Grant had a very interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa: Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and still pass your standards? A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade material. Q: So the 7000 series is stronger? A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the 2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if it bends instead of breaking. Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed? A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this. On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis? Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in a shoulder dislocating crash only luck kept him from being hit by a car. When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences. Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the bike I ride all the time. FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so perhaps I'm just a klutz. dougP --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000 series too as most were on my mtb! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa by Grant: Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and still pass your standards? A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade material. Q: So the 7000 series is stronger? A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the 2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if it bends instead of breaking. Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed? A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this. On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis? Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in a shoulder dislocating crash only luck kept him from being hit by a car. When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences. Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the bike I ride all the time. FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so perhaps I'm just a klutz. dougP --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa by Grant: Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and still pass your standards? A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade material. Q: So the 7000 series is stronger? A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the 2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if it bends instead of breaking. Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed? A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this. Edit: Sorry for the gremins, needed to re-wrote some. On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis? Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in a shoulder dislocating crash only luck kept him from being hit by a car. When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences. Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the bike I ride all the time. FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so perhaps I'm just a klutz. dougP --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
Were I to be contemplating riding brevets or multi-day tours, I'd start by defining what range of gears would work for me, then choose derailleurs to match. If the Simplexes work with the gearing you need and you trust them in brevet conditions, then go with them. If not, go modern. Bill John Ferguson wrote: Hi all, First time on here, and it's my first time building a bike from the frame up. I'm hoping someone here can help, as I'm a complete neophyte. I've been riding an older (cheap) French bike for the past 10 years and finally took the plunge and bought a Rivendell Saluki. Frame only, of course--I could have taken the easy way out and gotten a completed bike, but since I'm going to be traveling long distances on this bike, I figured I needed to build it myself so I know how everything goes together. I'm in the process of acquiring components; I think I have most everything figured out, except for the following: I have a Simplex SLJ5500 rear derailleur and an SLJ front derailleur from my old bike. However, I can't figure out with a high degree of confidence what an appropriate range would be for the chainwheels and the cassette/freewheel. Unfortunately I sold my old bike without counting teeth. I'm planning on taking very long rides, sometimes multi-day, and I'm hoping to enter some formal randonneur events this year. Anyone have advice for me? Anything would be appreciated; I've spent many hours trying to figure this out. Thanks! John --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
Hey John, Welcome to the list and kudos to building and maintaining your own bike! I can't help you with the gear ranges appropriate to the derailleurs you have, but I do agree with others here suggesting going with modern Shimano stuff (Deore/LX/XT rear, Sora Front - for example). For the kind of riding you are describing, I'd suggest the Riv-approved, uber affordable Sugino XD triple crank (24/36/48) and a 11-32 or 11-34 cassette. I've used a similar setup on the Atlantis for all terrain touring, daily errands/commuting, and brevet distance rides. Works great. Substituting larger chainrings is easy and cheap. And, if after riding a while, you find you don't use the granny ring or prefer closer spacing in the rear or whatever, you haven't invested loads in your drivetrain and it is relatively easy to change things out. enjoy the build and ride! -Jay Asheville, NC On Jan 11, 12:35 am, John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi all, First time on here, and it's my first time building a bike from the frame up. I'm hoping someone here can help, as I'm a complete neophyte. I've been riding an older (cheap) French bike for the past 10 years and finally took the plunge and bought a Rivendell Saluki. Frame only, of course--I could have taken the easy way out and gotten a completed bike, but since I'm going to be traveling long distances on this bike, I figured I needed to build it myself so I know how everything goes together. I'm in the process of acquiring components; I think I have most everything figured out, except for the following: I have a Simplex SLJ5500 rear derailleur and an SLJ front derailleur from my old bike. However, I can't figure out with a high degree of confidence what an appropriate range would be for the chainwheels and the cassette/freewheel. Unfortunately I sold my old bike without counting teeth. I'm planning on taking very long rides, sometimes multi-day, and I'm hoping to enter some formal randonneur events this year. Anyone have advice for me? Anything would be appreciated; I've spent many hours trying to figure this out. Thanks! John --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] YouTube - Climbing Cardiac Grade
For your wintertime enjoyment, some shots from yestoday's ride. About halfway into the Descending Cardiac video is a group of supercars that passed me on the way down: Climbing Cardiac: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yEvn96Sr_w Descending Cardiac: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nSXQoljYQg Riv content: I was riding lugged steel/leather/wool, with a Carradice bag. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
Did you finally get some coffee? - Original Message - From: fenderbender To: RBW Owners Bunch Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 6:49 AM Subject: [RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan? To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa by Grant: Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and still pass your standards? A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade material. Q: So the 7000 series is stronger? A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the 2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if it bends instead of breaking. Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed? A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this. Edit: Sorry for the gremins, needed to re-wrote some. On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis? Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in a shoulder dislocating crash only luck kept him from being hit by a car. When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences. Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the bike I ride all the time. FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so perhaps I'm just a klutz. dougP --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Rivlike BIkes and shellacking their bars
Sorry, sorry, sorry. I never knew how the technology worked until now. I always assumed that if you change the name of the subject line, then a new thread automatically begins. But now I've learned that the thread is still defined by the message to which you hit reply. I always thought I was doing it right. Well, to keep things on topic (the subject Rivlike Bikes can work for any topic on this list), I like that on Youtube, Rivendell now has three shellacking examples, one very careful and crafty, one fast and a tiny bit drippy, and one funny. Take a look. -James On Jan 11, 2009, at 4:34 AM, fenderbender wrote: Well it's back to Rivlike Bike now but how on earth could this happen? On 11 Jan, 13:06, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote: I'm sure that was a mistake On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2 shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A! On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote: I just noticed this for the first time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiPcpnylK-4feature=channel- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: cross country rider
In case there is anyone who would like to participate in the final day of his ride. www.bikingforobama.com/2009/01/11/calling-all-riders/ On Dec 24 2008, 1:40 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote: Thanks for the link. Guy is truly inspired. Even the southern tier this time of the year can get dicey weather. On Dec 24, 8:44 am, Sarah Gibson sadieja...@hotmail.com wrote: thought yall might enjoy this http://www.bikingforobama.com/ even have a place for him stay ifn yr on the route peace well behaved women rarely make history _ride yr friggin bicycle_ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
Thanks, guess I was running on fumes. But the google forum lack of edit functions paired with a tired 'ol Win98 do ad to the fun. :) On 11 Jan, 18:19, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote: Did you finally get some coffee? - Original Message - From: fenderbender To: RBW Owners Bunch Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 6:49 AM Subject: [RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan? To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa by Grant: Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and still pass your standards? A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade material. Q: So the 7000 series is stronger? A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the 2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if it bends instead of breaking. Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed? A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this. Edit: Sorry for the gremins, needed to re-wrote some. On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis? Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in a shoulder dislocating crash only luck kept him from being hit by a car. When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences. Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the bike I ride all the time. FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so perhaps I'm just a klutz. dougP- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Silver Hupe For Sale
I have a gently used Silver Hupe for sale: $20 shipped in the CONUS. Rubber coating has been worn off on the lower part in one small area, but *not* where the Hupe contacts the frame. Chrome is perfect. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
Thanks for all the advice. Let me be clear here: Using the Simplex derailleurs from my old bike is not to save a few bucks on new derailleurs. It's because they worked flawlessly for many years. I see no reason to change -- plus they're a lot prettier than Shimano. All I'm trying to figure out is what would be a reasonable front/rear combo that would work with this derailleur. I know the capacity is 26. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
Trust me, I'm definitely going to take it to a bike shop to check after I put everything together! I'm going to look into taking a course, but I usually take the try and fail approach first. I'm considering just putting the Simplex on the shelf, and maybe using it with a used frame in the future. John On Jan 11, 6:21 am, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote: Any neophyte should have their handiwork looked at by a capable wrench hand. You don't want your wheelset to discombobulate at 45 mph on a steep downhill, or when you hear that clacking noise think to yourself, I wonder if I was supposed to grease that before installing it? Our local bike club offers bicycle self mechanic classes from a certified mechanic. Learning the right way is better, if your intent is really to be mechanically self sufficient. It also requires a fair number of specialized tools, which you might not want to haul around on a long distance tour. So knowing where to get help if needed while out onteh road is good. Along the same lines, I think you would do better with readily available modern components, if you want to be able to get service in areas that lack such things as foodies, hipsters, or French made derailleurs. Get Shimano, Campy, or SRAM for wider availability. Now, if want to build up an interesting and classic looking bike, by all means use your Simplex, Huret etc groupset. Salukis are often built up using smaller chainrings and larger cogs. You should have no trouble with a chainring up to a 50. and may be able to go to the old classic size of 52. In back, if eyeballing won't get you close enough, why not borrow a wheel and do some field testing? Have fun. From: John Ferguson rfj1...@yahoo.com First time on here, and it's my first time building a bike from the frame up. I'm hoping someone here can help, as I'm a complete neophyte. I've been riding an older (cheap) French bike for the past 10 years and finally took the plunge and bought a Rivendell Saluki. Frame only, of course--I could have taken the easy way out and gotten a completed bike, but since I'm going to be traveling long distances on this bike, I figured I needed to build it myself so I know how everything goes together. . I'm planning on taking very long rides, sometimes multi-day, and I'm hoping to enter some formal randonneur events this year. Anyone have advice for me? Anything would be appreciated; I've spent many hours trying to figure this out. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes
John: I'm not familiar with your Huret parts but a lot of old stuff is a whole lot better looking than modern day stuff. IMO, Shimano tends to a cold, industrial look. Assuming you're going to use the FD RD, expect to do quite a bit of trial error to see what works for you. Most manufacturer's capacity specs are conservative, and assume at some point you'll wander into the big-big or the small-small, so the 26t capacity is probably advisory. I recall you mentioned you didn't count teeth but was the previous set-up a double or triple, and how many speeds? And do you want to change any of that? dougP -Original Message- From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of John Ferguson Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 9:15 AM To: RBW Owners Bunch Subject: [RBW] Re: Questions about derailleurs/chainwheels/cassettes Thanks for all the advice. Let me be clear here: Using the Simplex derailleurs from my old bike is not to save a few bucks on new derailleurs. It's because they worked flawlessly for many years. I see no reason to change -- plus they're a lot prettier than Shimano. All I'm trying to figure out is what would be a reasonable front/rear combo that would work with this derailleur. I know the capacity is 26. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
