[RBW] Original T.A. Pro 5 Vis cranks on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=140303596289fromMakeTrack=truessPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:fr Need special Jeux de Grain bolt sets and BB axle and some say they they were prone to cracking around the BB hole. Still, nice piece of bike history and not something one see every day! --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Kickstand Plate
These larger kickstand mounts are a very good idea! I'm surprised that neither the producer or bike manufacturers don't insist on them or offer some bolt on type as extras. Most modern bike frames don't have the required tube thickness to cope with the forces of a loaded bike pushing down on that small area. The Pletscher ESGE double leg kickstand I used on a MTB-tourer during a Singapore to China trip deformed the tubes so much they cracked. I was fortunate enough to notice it while still in Thailand and was able to source a all new frame. On 24 Feb, 14:19, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Yes, I should read more carefully. On Feb 23, 9:44 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/23/09 7:18 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: Steve: I'm not aware of kickstand plates that are sold for retrofitting to frames. I had assumed he was building the frame - not a lot listed out there, but a couple 'o leads, if that's the case: http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/brazeons.html (he ended up making his own)http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/suppliers.html - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Workshops of the iBob's Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines My nighttime attitude is anyone can run you down and get away with it. That's why I don't even own a bike light or one of those godawful reflective suits. Because if you've put yourself in a position where someone has to see you in order for you to be safe...you've already blown it. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: puzzling malfunction
On Feb 24, 9:50 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote: You can also click the expand all link at the top of the page... That's what I thought was odd. The EXPAND ALL button doesn't work. This is the first time in a decade of surfing these types of lists that this has ever happened to me. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Kickstand Plate
As it happens, Rivendell will sell these kickstand plates to interested inquirers. I am placing a call to Mark today. Many thanks, Grant and crew! Steve On Feb 25, 2:54 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote: These larger kickstand mounts are a very good idea! I'm surprised that neither the producer or bike manufacturers don't insist on them or offer some bolt on type as extras. Most modern bike frames don't have the required tube thickness to cope with the forces of a loaded bike pushing down on that small area. The Pletscher ESGE double leg kickstand I used on a MTB-tourer during a Singapore to China trip deformed the tubes so much they cracked. I was fortunate enough to notice it while still in Thailand and was able to source a all new frame. On 24 Feb, 14:19, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Yes, I should read more carefully. On Feb 23, 9:44 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/23/09 7:18 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: Steve: I'm not aware of kickstand plates that are sold for retrofitting to frames. I had assumed he was building the frame - not a lot listed out there, but a couple 'o leads, if that's the case: http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/brazeons.html (he ended up making his own)http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/suppliers.html - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Workshops of the iBob's Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines My nighttime attitude is anyone can run you down and get away with it. That's why I don't even own a bike light or one of those godawful reflective suits. Because if you've put yourself in a position where someone has to see you in order for you to be safe...you've already blown it. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac- Dölj citerad text - - Visa citerad text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
I think this is why the axle may be more likely to move on a singlespeed. The chain, while pedaling forward, pulls the axle both forward and up. The force, resisting forward or trying to pedal backward, pulls the axle both forward and down. Since there is a tiny bit of play, everytime it makes the transition from up to down and vice versa, it will slip forward a little, as well. Having a derailer and access to large rear sprockets will actually increase the force pulling the rear axle forward and up due to the increase leverage of applying the force farther from the axle. Pedaling harder will linearly increase the force applied to the rear axle, but shifting to a larger rear sprocket will multiply the force on the rear axle. Todd Olsen On Feb 24, 5:10 pm, Invisible brooks.wes...@gmail.com wrote: I may be drifting off topic, but: On my dinglespeed (Redline Monocog 29er, not a Quickbeam), grinding up steep hills in the lower gear will sometimes cause the rear wheel to slip forward - and this is with a bolt-on axle. Here's my theory: with no derailer, there's no worry of spurious gear-hopping so I worry less about how much torque I put on the cranks, and so I crank harder. For this reason I can put a lot more force into a derailer-less bike. So there might be something to the idea that wheel slippage is a greater threat w/o a derailer. -Wesley --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Question about Dia Compe 287 levers and V-brakes
I believe they are 287V brake levers. I'm at work, so I can't check, but that was what I intended to say. Jim, are the Tektros better at this out of the box, or do you have to do something special? I have a bunch of cantilever brakes lying around, and I'm considering just using one of those. I think the road levers I have will work for that, at least. But I'm intrigued by the Tektro brakes. On Feb 25, 5:08 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/24/09 8:44 PM, Dave C at david.charles.carr...@gmail.com wrote: I was setting up the front brake on my newly built-up Karate Monkey frame. I have never used moustache bars, V-brakes, nor the DC 287 brake levers. Please take that into consideration. I set up the V- brakes this evening, the pads are fairly close to the rims and parallel, but the levers don't seem to pull enough cable to stop the rim when riding. There is little to no tension when I apply the levers. I got the DC 287 levers from someone several years. I was wondering if they are supposed to come with any others parts besides the basic levers. Is there a trick or special method to setting up V-brakes with these levers? Any help is appreciated -- I am not very experienced with brake set-up and adjustment. The 287 does not pull enough to be used with V-type brakes. There is a 287V which is designed to pull the proper amount. You can get standard levers to work with V-brakes by using an adapter such as the Travel Agent Good reference on brakes and their workings - AASHTA:http://sheldonbrown.com/brakes - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew, and went in. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Question about Dia Compe 287 levers and V-brakes
Nothing special with the Tektro long-pull levers. Just hook them up as usual. On Feb 25, 8:40 am, Dave C david.charles.carr...@gmail.com wrote: I believe they are 287V brake levers. I'm at work, so I can't check, but that was what I intended to say. Jim, are the Tektros better at this out of the box, or do you have to do something special? I have a bunch of cantilever brakes lying around, and I'm considering just using one of those. I think the road levers I have will work for that, at least. But I'm intrigued by the Tektro brakes. On Feb 25, 5:08 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/24/09 8:44 PM, Dave C at david.charles.carr...@gmail.com wrote: I was setting up the front brake on my newly built-up Karate Monkey frame. I have never used moustache bars, V-brakes, nor the DC 287 brake levers. Please take that into consideration. I set up the V- brakes this evening, the pads are fairly close to the rims and parallel, but the levers don't seem to pull enough cable to stop the rim when riding. There is little to no tension when I apply the levers. I got the DC 287 levers from someone several years. I was wondering if they are supposed to come with any others parts besides the basic levers. Is there a trick or special method to setting up V-brakes with these levers? Any help is appreciated -- I am not very experienced with brake set-up and adjustment. The 287 does not pull enough to be used with V-type brakes. There is a 287V which is designed to pull the proper amount. You can get standard levers to work with V-brakes by using an adapter such as the Travel Agent Good reference on brakes and their workings - AASHTA:http://sheldonbrown.com/brakes - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew, and went in. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
I've had some trouble keeping the rear wheel in one place as well. I took the trouble to mark the quick release when I thought I had it lined up pretty well, and it seems to slowly walk away from the marks over a 20-30 rides of an hour each. I've been wondering if the chain is going to wear a little faster because it's slightly out of line. any thoughts on that? On Feb 25, 5:53 am, Todd Olsen todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote: I think this is why the axle may be more likely to move on a singlespeed. The chain, while pedaling forward, pulls the axle both forward and up. The force, resisting forward or trying to pedal backward, pulls the axle both forward and down. Since there is a tiny bit of play, everytime it makes the transition from up to down and vice versa, it will slip forward a little, as well. Having a derailer and access to large rear sprockets will actually increase the force pulling the rear axle forward and up due to the increase leverage of applying the force farther from the axle. Pedaling harder will linearly increase the force applied to the rear axle, but shifting to a larger rear sprocket will multiply the force on the rear axle. Todd Olsen On Feb 24, 5:10 pm, Invisible brooks.wes...@gmail.com wrote: I may be drifting off topic, but: On my dinglespeed (Redline Monocog 29er, not a Quickbeam), grinding up steep hills in the lower gear will sometimes cause the rear wheel to slip forward - and this is with a bolt-on axle. Here's my theory: with no derailer, there's no worry of spurious gear-hopping so I worry less about how much torque I put on the cranks, and so I crank harder. For this reason I can put a lot more force into a derailer-less bike. So there might be something to the idea that wheel slippage is a greater threat w/o a derailer. -Wesley --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
It's true that the lower gears of a derailer setup provide more torque to the rear wheel, but in that case the force is being applied closer to the centerline of the hub, so it's affecting both dropouts equally. With a SS/fixed setup, the cog is typically right at the right dropout (no matter the OLD spacing), so the force is more concentrated on one side. Despite the higher gear i run on ss/fixed bikes (as compared to multi-gear bikes), i have had slippage when starting out if the q/r isn't really tight. I agree than there's less fear in mashing a gear when there's no (knock on wood) chance of the chain jumping off. Q/Rs have been ok, still, I've converted my 2 current SS bikes over to nutted hubs. -- Bill Connell St. Paul, MN On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 7:53 AM, Todd Olsen todd_ol...@comcast.net wrote: I think this is why the axle may be more likely to move on a singlespeed. The chain, while pedaling forward, pulls the axle both forward and up. The force, resisting forward or trying to pedal backward, pulls the axle both forward and down. Since there is a tiny bit of play, everytime it makes the transition from up to down and vice versa, it will slip forward a little, as well. Having a derailer and access to large rear sprockets will actually increase the force pulling the rear axle forward and up due to the increase leverage of applying the force farther from the axle. Pedaling harder will linearly increase the force applied to the rear axle, but shifting to a larger rear sprocket will multiply the force on the rear axle. Todd Olsen On Feb 24, 5:10 pm, Invisible brooks.wes...@gmail.com wrote: I may be drifting off topic, but: On my dinglespeed (Redline Monocog 29er, not a Quickbeam), grinding up steep hills in the lower gear will sometimes cause the rear wheel to slip forward - and this is with a bolt-on axle. Here's my theory: with no derailer, there's no worry of spurious gear-hopping so I worry less about how much torque I put on the cranks, and so I crank harder. For this reason I can put a lot more force into a derailer-less bike. So there might be something to the idea that wheel slippage is a greater threat w/o a derailer. -Wesley --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
Perhaps in the future, Riv ought to source the PaulComp track blades with set screws: http://paulcomp.com/ (jump to the single speed section) On Feb 24, 3:36 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody else having trouble with the rear wheel on the QB? Sometimes it shimmies out of alignment as I ride. One time I was pedalling hard after a stop and it slipped. I've tightened the quick release and hopefully all is well now. What's the trick with these track ends in straightening and keeping straight the wheel? Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
I'm not sure why someone doesn't invent a simple preset drop out spacer for each ratio that would keep the axle from moving forward. I know some dropouts have threaded bolts but that can be slow to get each side equal for alignment. You'd only need two sets for the standard QB with maybe one or two more for other ratios. These could be machined from aluminum or even cast by the hundreds. Probably expensive though and better if some niche maker made them available. I can see why solid axles and nuts are used and whats a wrench weigh anyway? I'll bet one could be made out of titanium with hardened steel faces and Grant could sell it and make some money. Or have a skeletonized one cast with the Rivendell logo/name in the handle and made of tool steel. On Feb 25, 8:34 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: It may be helpful to rough up the dropout faces so the q/r can get some bite. Maybe make some dimples in the contact area. On Feb 24, 3:36 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody else having trouble with the rear wheel on the QB? Sometimes it shimmies out of alignment as I ride. One time I was pedalling hard after a stop and it slipped. I've tightened the quick release and hopefully all is well now. What's the trick with these track ends in straightening and keeping straight the wheel? Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Question about Dia Compe 287 levers and V-brakes
I used 287V's and Avid v-brakes for years with no problems. Stock, they come with two special noodles per lever, one that routes the cable out of the lever smoothly and a special 90 deg noodle with barrel adjuster at the brake- do you have both of those? It sounds like you simply didn't put enough tension on the cable when you set them up. Try pulling the cable through the pinch bolt a bit more before clamping down. You do have to get the pads fairly close to the rim. On Feb 24, 8:44 pm, Dave C david.charles.carr...@gmail.com wrote: I was setting up the front brake on my newly built-up Karate Monkey frame. I have never used moustache bars, V-brakes, nor the DC 287 brake levers. Please take that into consideration. I set up the V- brakes this evening, the pads are fairly close to the rims and parallel, but the levers don't seem to pull enough cable to stop the rim when riding. There is little to no tension when I apply the levers. I got the DC 287 levers from someone several years. I was wondering if they are supposed to come with any others parts besides the basic levers. Is there a trick or special method to setting up V-brakes with these levers? Any help is appreciated -- I am not very experienced with brake set-up and adjustment. Dave Wrightwood, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
Well, a change of one tooth moves the axle exactly 1/8th inch, so the spacers would be easy to make. Hard part would be getting the initial spacing right, given the variety in chainstay lengths. But once you had that set, just add or take off 1/8th inch per tooth and you're set. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On Feb 25, 2009, at 9:37 AM, charlie wrote: I'm not sure why someone doesn't invent a simple preset drop out spacer for each ratio that would keep the axle from moving forward. I know some dropouts have threaded bolts but that can be slow to get each side equal for alignment. You'd only need two sets for the standard QB with maybe one or two more for other ratios. These could be machined from aluminum or even cast by the hundreds. Probably expensive though and better if some niche maker made them available. I can see why solid axles and nuts are used and whats a wrench weigh anyway? I'll bet one could be made out of titanium with hardened steel faces and Grant could sell it and make some money. Or have a skeletonized one cast with the Rivendell logo/name in the handle and made of tool steel. On Feb 25, 8:34 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: It may be helpful to rough up the dropout faces so the q/r can get some bite. Maybe make some dimples in the contact area. On Feb 24, 3:36 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody else having trouble with the rear wheel on the QB? Sometimes it shimmies out of alignment as I ride. One time I was pedalling hard after a stop and it slipped. I've tightened the quick release and hopefully all is well now. What's the trick with these track ends in straightening and keeping straight the wheel? Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
If using an old style QR and/or roughing up the track ends doesn't work for you, I suggest the Surly Tuggnut, too. I tried all of the above on my SS Karate Monkey to no avail and finally bought the Tuggnut. Quick, simple, and elegant fix for all your rear wheel slippage, and you'll have a convenient place to crack open that post ride frosty ale. -Jay Asheville, NC On Feb 24, 4:36 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody else having trouble with the rear wheel on the QB? Sometimes it shimmies out of alignment as I ride. One time I was pedalling hard after a stop and it slipped. I've tightened the quick release and hopefully all is well now. What's the trick with these track ends in straightening and keeping straight the wheel? Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] shimano 3n80 dyno hub
I noticed the shimano 3n80 hubs showed up on riv's wheel page,now. I'm currently torn. I have a 3n71 on another bike that has seen a good number of miles. It's worked well and i've always been reasonably happy with it. The debate is - should I get the 3n71 that I have built into another rim or consider buying a 3n80 to see how it compares? Does anyone have the 3n80 and can give a comparison as to what I might be missing/gaining? -sv --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
I weigh 220lbs, commute with another 10 to 15 pounds of computers, clothes and gear on a QB with either an 18 or 17 tooth freewheel depending on the season. My route is reasonably hilly. I also use by QB as my main recreation/training bike. The only time I have a problem with slippage is when I don't properly tighten the quick release. Because this is a steel skewer I tighten it much more then I would an alloy skewer. I believe that the only reason there is more slippage on a single speed then a geared bike is that most geared bikes are set up with vertical drop outs and most single sppeds have horizontal dropouts. If I recall back to the last time I had a road bike with horizontal dropouts the wheel would slip if not properly tightened Larry Powers just when you think that you've been gyped the bearded lady comes and does a double back flip - John Hiatt _ It’s the same Hotmail®. If by “same” you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Same_022009 --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: shimano 3n80 dyno hub
Hi Seth, From what I've read, it's significantly lighter, more efficient/less drag, closes the gap on the SON28. http://rattrappress.blogspot.com/2008/10/shimano-dh-3n80.html http://cyclinginseattle.blogspot.com/2008/12/new-shimano-3n80-dynohub-another.html If you google around, you'll find more info. Gino, flu-bound, Z. On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 9:58 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: I noticed the shimano 3n80 hubs showed up on riv's wheel page,now. I'm currently torn. I have a 3n71 on another bike that has seen a good number of miles. It's worked well and i've always been reasonably happy with it. The debate is - should I get the 3n71 that I have built into another rim or consider buying a 3n80 to see how it compares? Does anyone have the 3n80 and can give a comparison as to what I might be missing/gaining? -sv --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] FS: Stem Mount Suntour Friction Shifters
A few months back there a was a thread about the many ways to mount your shift levers. One post included a link to a Bleriot that had the shift levers mounted with an integral clamp onto the stem, immediately above the headset. This got my memory going, and I remembered that a lugged steel frame that I bought more than 20 years ago had the same setup. I was digging in the parts bin and found them. I post here as I know some folks had posted I wonder if they make those any more sorts of posts. Silver alloy with chromed steel clamp and cable guides. Friction only, with black suntour lever covers. Excellent shape. No signs of wear. Eight Dollars Shipped in USA. Email for photos. Cheers, Sean --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
I weigh 220lbs, commute with another 10 to 15 pounds of computers, clothes and gear on a QB with either an 18 or 17 tooth freewheel depending on the season. My route is reasonably hilly. I also use by QB as my main recreation/training bike. The only time I have a problem with slippage is when I don't properly tighten the quick release. Because this is a steel skewer I tighten it much more then I would an alloy skewer. I believe that the main reason there is more slippage on a single speed then a geared bike is that most geared bikes are set up with vertical drop outs and most single sppeds have horizontal dropouts. If I recall back to the last time I had a road bike with horizontal dropouts the wheel would slip if not properly tightened Larry Powers just when you think that you've been gyped the bearded lady comes and does a double back flip - John Hiatt _ Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009 --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] WTB: 56-ish Road, Romulus, Rambouillet
I'm looking to add a 700c geared bike to the flock (Quickbeam and Bleriot). If you're thinking of sellin', I'm thinking of buyin'. Thanks. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: shimano 3n80 dyno hub
i can't imagine the 3n80 is positively more efficient and lighter than the 3n71 from the riders point of view. i'm sure the numbers support that, but for all intents and purposes, i bet they're very, very similar. i think differences in weight, and drag for that matter, are neglible when considering the higher-end dyno hubs - they're all heavy, and unless one needs absolute top performance for marathon brevet riding or whatever kind of fast night riding one needs to do, i think the 3n71 is hard to beat, especially considering its price. for the record, I also think the 3n71 is more than adequate for brevet riding too. the schmidt is state of the art and super high quality (and the price tag reflects this), but i think i'd be just as happy on my 3n71 on a brevet as I am with my schmidt. for me, the only advantage of the schmidt (besides curb appeal) is that Peter White can take care of anything that might go wrong with the hub. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: FS: Stem Mount Suntour Friction Shifters
I'll take them. Contact me off list. Ray Shine --- On Wed, 2/25/09, Sean Whelan strummer_...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Sean Whelan strummer_...@yahoo.com Subject: [RBW] FS: Stem Mount Suntour Friction Shifters To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 11:34 AM A few months back there a was a thread about the many ways to mount your shift levers. One post included a link to a Bleriot that had the shift levers mounted with an integral clamp onto the stem, immediately above the headset. This got my memory going, and I remembered that a lugged steel frame that I bought more than 20 years ago had the same setup. I was digging in the parts bin and found them. I post here as I know some folks had posted I wonder if they make those any more sorts of posts. Silver alloy with chromed steel clamp and cable guides. Friction only, with black suntour lever covers. Excellent shape. No signs of wear. Eight Dollars Shipped in USA. Email for photos. Cheers, Sean --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
If I understand the suggestion correctly (I am not an engineer) it seems to me that the surly tugnut (or similar gadget) would solve the problem,if it is a problem. Jim D. Massachusetts --- On Wed, 2/25/09, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: From: charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com Subject: [RBW] Re: QB rear wheel To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 12:37 PM I'm not sure why someone doesn't invent a simple preset drop out spacer for each ratio that would keep the axle from moving forward. I know some dropouts have threaded bolts but that can be slow to get each side equal for alignment. You'd only need two sets for the standard QB with maybe one or two more for other ratios. These could be machined from aluminum or even cast by the hundreds. Probably expensive though and better if some niche maker made them available. I can see why solid axles and nuts are used and whats a wrench weigh anyway? I'll bet one could be made out of titanium with hardened steel faces and Grant could sell it and make some money. Or have a skeletonized one cast with the Rivendell logo/name in the handle and made of tool steel. On Feb 25, 8:34 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: It may be helpful to rough up the dropout faces so the q/r can get some bite. Maybe make some dimples in the contact area. On Feb 24, 3:36 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody else having trouble with the rear wheel on the QB? Sometimes it shimmies out of alignment as I ride. One time I was pedalling hard after a stop and it slipped. I've tightened the quick release and hopefully all is well now. What's the trick with these track ends in straightening and keeping straight the wheel? Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: puzzling malfunction
I thought I was the only one having this problem. I tried different operating systems, different browsers, different groups, all without resolution. I assumed the Expand All option had some failing JavaScript. Thanks for the URL spoof workaround, it was killing me to keep going older, older, older on the topic page until I reached the desired thread. This must be a problem on google's end of things but I couldn't find other users complaining about the issue. On Feb 25, 7:49 am, Bob Cooper robertcoo...@frontiernet.net wrote: On Feb 24, 9:50 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote: You can also click the expand all link at the top of the page... That's what I thought was odd. The EXPAND ALL button doesn't work. This is the first time in a decade of surfing these types of lists that this has ever happened to me. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Afternoon ride, 2-25-09 - a set on Flickr
Snuck out between the storms: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157614369341583/ --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Afternoon ride, 2-25-09 - a set on Flickr
I like your new buddy icon :-) On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 7:35 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: Snuck out between the storms: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157614369341583/ --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Afternoon ride, 2-25-09 - a set on Flickr
One of many helmeted shots of me. --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org On Feb 25, 2009, at 8:02 PM, David Estes wrote: I like your new buddy icon :-) On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 7:35 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: Snuck out between the storms: http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157614369341583/ --Eric campyonly...@me.com www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.org -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
As somebody who is looking at getting one of the silver QB's, I am surprised at how many posts this topic has received. I'm having a hard time telling how much of an issue slippage is for most QB owners. Can somebody help me with some perspective. Thanks in advance. -Chris --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: shimano 3n80 dyno hub
I just popped for one of these hubs - haven't built it up yet, though, so I have no insight into how well if functions. Feels lighter than I expected (sub 500g, I think). Any suggestions on lights? At this point I'm thinking a Lumotec IQ Cyo and a wired tailight also -br On Feb 25, 9:58 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: I noticed the shimano 3n80 hubs showed up on riv's wheel page,now. I'm currently torn. I have a 3n71 on another bike that has seen a good number of miles. It's worked well and i've always been reasonably happy with it. The debate is - should I get the 3n71 that I have built into another rim or consider buying a 3n80 to see how it compares? Does anyone have the 3n80 and can give a comparison as to what I might be missing/gaining? -sv --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Question about Dia Compe 287 levers and V-brakes
Thanks. You are very clear, so I bet you're a good teacher. I teach high school English, but it would be great to teach high school Bicycling. That should be added to the California curriculum. I have an Atlantis, too, with cantilevers that work fine. Dave On Feb 25, 8:04 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote: Tocayo (Dave C!): I've used all of the above items on various bikes, including a 287V/ linear pull set up karate monkey with mustache bars, and they all work. I have to say though, that even in comparison with travel agents and normal levers, the 287V levers were my least favorite. I did use them successfully (with plenty of stopping power for a 200lb rider) on my Atlantis during a month-long, loaded tour. The 287V's do seem overly sensitive to cable routing issues and the rear brake never quite met my expectations for a smooth pull - though it stopped fine. Without looking at your bike, I wouldn't suppose to tell you what's wrong with your set-up. The tektro levers and the identical Cane Creek Drop V's do work great. As Jim says, you just hook them up and they work. The only thing they are missing is the adjustable brake noodle that comes with the dia- compe 287V set up. Without some sort of adjuster, you have to adjust the brakes by undoing the anchor bolt and pulling cable to adjust for pad wear - not a big deal, but I prefer the fine adjustment of an in- line system. So, you could buy some of the tektro levers and use the dia-compe noodles or use Jagwire in-line adjusters to do the job. Switching to canti brakes is certainly another option, but with the Karate Monkey, you'll have to add some brake cable hangers to make it work. Again, not a big deal. Setting up canti's is a little more challenging depending on the brand of brake. Mustache bars with aero levers can present an addition problem when you try to route the front cable housing to the front cable hanger. If you have cut your steer tube short and have a stem with little rise and reach, it's tough to make the cable run smoothly depending on how you've taped your bars/ cables. However, there are ways! This is my first foray into trying to help someone solve a bike issue online and I hope I've been helpful. I'm teaching a bike course currently and I'm checking out the online bike scene as my personal project this term. My students are definitely into the on-line community deal and I'm trying to become less of a Luddite. I have an Atlantis and will soon receive a Bombadil frame for a build this spring, so I thought I'd check out this forum. Standing by. . . On Feb 25, 8:07 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: Nothing special with the Tektro long-pull levers. Just hook them up as usual. On Feb 25, 8:40 am, Dave C david.charles.carr...@gmail.com wrote: I believe they are 287V brake levers. I'm at work, so I can't check, but that was what I intended to say. Jim, are the Tektros better at this out of the box, or do you have to do something special? I have a bunch of cantilever brakes lying around, and I'm considering just using one of those. I think the road levers I have will work for that, at least. But I'm intrigued by the Tektro brakes. On Feb 25, 5:08 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote: on 2/24/09 8:44 PM, Dave C at david.charles.carr...@gmail.com wrote: I was setting up the front brake on my newly built-up Karate Monkey frame. I have never used moustache bars, V-brakes, nor the DC 287 brake levers. Please take that into consideration. I set up the V- brakes this evening, the pads are fairly close to the rims and parallel, but the levers don't seem to pull enough cable to stop the rim when riding. There is little to no tension when I apply the levers. I got the DC 287 levers from someone several years. I was wondering if they are supposed to come with any others parts besides the basic levers. Is there a trick or special method to setting up V-brakes with these levers? Any help is appreciated -- I am not very experienced with brake set-up and adjustment. The 287 does not pull enough to be used with V-type brakes. There is a 287V which is designed to pull the proper amount. You can get standard levers to work with V-brakes by using an adapter such as the Travel Agent Good reference on brakes and their workings - AASHTA:http://sheldonbrown.com/brakes - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it wouldn't look
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
I have one of the first batch of green QB's and it gets a pretty consistent 120 miles/week commuting on mostly flats with some short hills. I used to ride it fixed until maybe 3 months ago, when I flipped to the 16T freewheel and went to a 46T ring. These aren't great photos, but here it is: http://picasaweb.google.com/Wheelsmith91/Quickbeam# Don't be put off by this thread. I'm 6'3, 200 lbs and like to sprint for traffic lights. I seem to recall feeling the chain slacken maybe once or twice early on, but slippage is not an issue as long as you adequately tighten the QR. I'll confess that I tighten the QR slightly more on the QB than on a bike with vertical drops, but not excessively The tuggnut thingy from Surly would make it a total non-issue, but I'm not convinced it's necessary if you have a good QR. For holding on a wheel, I've heard it from reliable sources that a QR has a mechanical advantage over an axle nut, and don't ask me to explain why :-) but I tend to agree with this. I would occasionally have an axle slip back in my BMX racing days, but practically never on horizontal-dropout'd road frames. Then again, that could be a function of 180mm cranks and all the leverage from BMX bars, and the old electronic gate start Good luck, and I hope you decide to get a new QB. The kickstand bracket and mid-stay rack braze ons are smart additions to the latest version, I think. -br On Feb 25, 8:13 pm, c.n.smith c.n.sm...@comcast.net wrote: As somebody who is looking at getting one of the silver QB's, I am surprised at how many posts this topic has received. I'm having a hard time telling how much of an issue slippage is for most QB owners. Can somebody help me with some perspective. Thanks in advance. -Chris --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: Question about Dia Compe 287 levers and V-brakes
I looked at the levers when I returned home, and I can't see any identifying number. Is there any way to identify the specific Dia Compe model, without deep familiarity with the different lever designs? --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
This topic has been debated many times over on all the fixed gear/ss discussion groups. I'm currently using such a set-up with no problems, and many people, all sane (Sheldon Brown, for one) have said it's fine (assuming, of course, you have a high-quality enclosed-cam skewer and that both the acorn nuts and locknuts on the hub are adequately knurled). My theory is that those who have problems with axle slippage are setting their chain tension too high to begin with, and that the force of pedaling added on to too much chain tension is overcoming the ability of the skewer to hold the hub in place. Try setting your chain tension a little bit slacker and see if it helps! On Feb 24, 1:36 pm, colin p. cummings colinthehip...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody else having trouble with the rear wheel on the QB? Sometimes it shimmies out of alignment as I ride. One time I was pedalling hard after a stop and it slipped. I've tightened the quick release and hopefully all is well now. What's the trick with these track ends in straightening and keeping straight the wheel? Cheers, Colin Cummings Amarillo, TX --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel
1. It's not an issue for me. 2. You're really going to like your Quickbeam. On Feb 25, 8:13 pm, c.n.smith c.n.sm...@comcast.net wrote: As somebody who is looking at getting one of the silver QB's, I am surprised at how many posts this topic has received. I'm having a hard time telling how much of an issue slippage is for most QB owners. Can somebody help me with some perspective. Thanks in advance. -Chris --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
