Re: [RBW] Looking for my first Rivendell

2014-02-04 Thread Curtis McKenzie
Brian,

Did use use a bit of chain ring for your front light mount?  Neat.

Wonderful pictures.

Take care,

Curtis

On Monday, February 3, 2014, stonehog stone...@gmail.com wrote:

 Mike - I have a 54 Hunq and a 59 AHH (similar to the Sam).  I'm 5'11 and
 160 lbs for reference.  I would definitely heed others advice here, and
 also say that both bikes would likely be great.  I find the two are
 definitely different in feel, with the Hunq being stiffer, and only
 slightly heavier.  They both feel great, and with the same wheelset are
 very close with the difference to me just in weight and stiffness.  I like
 a little flex and lightness, so...

 If it were me knowing what I know now, I would start with a Hillborne (or
 AHH) as it will do 99% of what you want.  Probably 100% - they are both up
 for touring.  I do a mix of commuting, mountain riding, and randonneuring.
  The AHH excels at all of these, and the Hunq excels at the mountain, and
 would be 2nd to the AHH on the other two unless you carry 20 lbs on your
 commute.  I prefer a strong minimal bike for the application, and also
 having a couple bikes that are set up for a specific application is a
 luxury I choose to pay for.

 Here are some stories and pics of both bikes with different setups if you
 want to do some casual reading :)

 http://www.stonehog.com
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/stonehog/sets

 Good luck, and enjoy whatever comes!  Rivs are great bikes!!

 Brian Hanson
 Seattle, WA

 On Friday, January 31, 2014 10:31:32 AM UTC-8, Mike K. wrote:

 Hi everyone,
 I've been admiring Rivendell's website and the various Flickr pages
 associated with it for a few years now. This year looks like I should
 finally be able to buy one. I have a few bikes now that I have set up as
 near a Rivendell as I can, but they're just not what I'm looking for
 (probably all psychological, but still).

 I'm torn between the Sam Hillborne and the Hunqapillar. I don't do any
 touring now, but that's largely due to not having a bike to do it. I have
 plenty of friends who go bike camping now that I'm in Texas, and am looking
 forward to it this summer. Upwards of 30 miles each way, fully loaded with
 camping gear, food, etc. for a few days' trip.

 Mostly, though, I am a commuter. About 4 miles each way. I have a
 commuter now, a 1984 Cannondale 56cm ST300 frame with an SR Apex 30/44/48
 Triple front and a 12-32 8-speed Cassette in the back, 35mm Bontrager
 Commuter tires with Longboard fenders, Nitto Mustache bars with bar ends
 and a Nitto Technomic Stem, and a Daija Rear Rack I bought from VO. It's a
 good bike, but just a tad small and I'm not comfortable loading even for
 the camping trips.

 I would be all-in for the Hunqa, except I'm concerned about it being a
 bear to just ride around with a light load or unloaded if I was heading out
 for a day ride around town, which points me to the Sam. Plus the Sam is a
 good bit cheaper these days, but I would move a good deal of components
 from the Cannondale to the new frame.

 Anyway, sorry for the word vomit. My point: anyone have experience with
 these two as far as handling? I'd love a Hunqa. I think it's a real beauty,
 diaga-tube and all. I'm 6' even with longish legs. Around an 89 PBH, so I'd
 be looking at a 58cm in either bike, 2tt on the Sam, diaga-tube on the
 Hunqa. I'm just afraid it's too beefy for just riding around.

 Any help is much appreciated.

 Cheers,
 Mike

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brooks, MKS, Nitto, Sackville, Tires

2014-02-04 Thread john muhl
Remaining stuff, prices reduced.

$15 MKS Touring/XC Pedals

$25 Hold Fast Foot Straps (brown)

$20 Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 10cm 26.0 - sanded down to 22.0mm.

$50 Nitto Moustache Bar

$75 Bruce Gordon Rock 'n Road (skinwall) Tires 700c x 43mm (x2) - low miles,
plenty of knob left.

$75 Grand Bois Cyprès (standard) 650b x 32 mm (x2) - barely ridden, 
basically
new.

$75 Soma C-Line Tires (black) 700c x 38mm (x2) - low milage, lots of life 
still.

$40 Sackville SaddleSack XSmall (olive)

$80 Sackville TrunkSack Small (olive)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

2014-02-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
Brian,

Makes perfect sense. In a side by side comparison, I'm sure the Hunqa would 
be slower than the AHH and mores the Rodeo.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, February 3, 2014 11:08:05 PM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:

 Patrick - the Hunq is a great bike, no doubt, but I definitely feel that 
 it is slightly slower for me than my AHH.  The paint makes it look fast, 
 and having the thought of the Mammoth makes me feel faster.  I finally 
 eyeball measured this very inaccurately on my nightly commute home over the 
 past year or so.  Many times, I thought I was faster on the Hunqa, but the 
 data don't lie!  It was consistently slightly slower.  Like 1-3 minutes out 
 of a 55 minute ride - damn - that's HUGE!!!  ;)  It was likely the beer or 
 the legs that made me thunk it was faster...

 Brian Hanson
 Seattle, WA

 On Sunday, February 2, 2014 3:03:13 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 You've made a sale. Only problem, buyer has no cash. But next bike, if 
 next bike there be, has the Hunq on the top of the very short list.


 On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 3:49 PM, Robert Barr rcb...@gmail.com wrote:

 Patrick - I think the Hunq is very light feeling and agile. I was amazed 
 when I first pulled mine out the box, my analogy will seem odd - but it 
 looked like a strung bow. A friend that regularly rides a Quickbeam was 
 amazed by the feel and ride of the bike. I am a commuter, and I agonized 
 over whether to get an Atlantis, a Bomba, a Hunqa, or a Sam. For where I 
 ride I think the Hunqa was the best choice for me - but I don't think there 
 was a wrong choice. Variations on a theme if you will. As Deacon Patrick 
 wrote, the folks at Riv are a marvel at guiding one to a good choice. Bob 
 (Indianapolis)


 On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 3:44 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com wrote:

 Interesting. Is this the impression others have of the two bikes?

 The consensus seems to be that the Hunq is exceptionally light feeling 
 and agile for a bike that takes 60 mm tires.



 On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 12:09 PM, Jim jfxdi...@gmail.com wrote:

  In the past I test rode an Atlantis but the Atlantis did not feel as 
 lively and agile as the Hun

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[RBW] Re: Cotton and Wool Winter Army Gear

2014-02-04 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Ian:

I picked up my sweater and snow smock on eBay.  There may be several 
sellers of these, but here are 2 links I found (with photos):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Swedish-Army-100-Wool-Sweater-Choice-of-Sizes-Military-Surplus-SL-2522-/281259383496?pt=US_CSA_MC_Sweatersvar=hash=item417c5d9ac8
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swedish-Army-original-Vintage-Snow-Camo-Jacket-1960s-street-fashion-skiing-/261383466424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cdbab2db8

Also do a Google search on Swedish Snow Smock and you should find several 
sites featuring bushcrafters/hunters  who have modified (sewn, dyed, etc.) 
snow smocks for their own purpose... lots you can do with these... pretty 
cool if you ask me, including just using them as-is.  Very functional.

Peace,
BB

On Monday, February 3, 2014 10:46:07 PM UTC-5, IanA wrote:

 Where can one buy these items?  The wool zipper sweater sounds great.  If 
 you're inclined to post photos...would be most interested.

 Ian A/Canada

 On Sunday, February 2, 2014 8:50:25 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I got a little creative this year with my winter gear, 
 trading synthetic (lycra, fleece and Gore Tex) for some traditional wool 
 and cotton Army gear, and boy am I glad I did.  We've had some fabulous 
 winter conditions for snowshoeing and mountain biking here in NJ and I got 
 to put my new gear to the test.  For the past week the snow has been too 
 deep and powdery (a rarity for NJ), which is great for showshoeing, and 
 thanks to steady foot traffic the trails have become semi-packed, adequate 
 for 2.3 in knobbies to climb and descend even the steep trails...

 I've recently acquired 2 pieces of Swedish Army surplus gear; a 100% wool 
 zipper sweater with extra long sleeves (with thumb holes), and a heavy 
 cotton snow smock, both awesome and inexpensive.  For warmth on yesterday's 
 ride I wore 2 layers of wool (a thin Merino base layer and the Swedish 
 sweater). For my outer shell I wore the snow smock.  Typically I had been 
 used to shedding layers at the top of a major climb (from 
 over-heating)... With this wool-cotton setup the heat buildup was more 
 gradual, and seemed to dissipate MUCH faster (due to the high breathability 
 of the fabric).  I posted a few weeks ago that I had also picked up a 
 wool Boreal shirt (made from wool army blankets), which is 
 SO ridiculously warm I left that at home.  But for super cold days the wool 
 Boreal and the cotton snow smock make an outstanding combo for active wear 
 where you expect to be perspiring.

 And although it's not Army surplus, I added a Ventile 
 cotton jacket (which WAS developed by the British military) as my 
 everyday winter jacket that I wear to the office.. it just FEELS amazing.

 I do get some odd looks and smiles from people, *(especially my brother, 
 who refers to me as Luke Skywalker)* when I'm wearing the snow smock, 
 I REALLY love this gear, and am now on the lookout for other similar gear 
 from military establishments around the world... *(hey, this stuff is 
 field-tested, right?)*   Anyone else a fan of *(peacetime use)* of 
 army gear?? 

 Peace,
 BB 



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Re: [RBW] Looking for my first Rivendell

2014-02-04 Thread stonehog
Sure did.  Has worked perfectly for thousands of miles!  :)

Brian

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 4:32:38 AM UTC-8, Curtis wrote:

 Brian,

 Did use use a bit of chain ring for your front light mount?  Neat.

 Wonderful pictures.

 Take care,

 Curtis

 On Monday, February 3, 2014, stonehog ston...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Mike - I have a 54 Hunq and a 59 AHH (similar to the Sam).  I'm 5'11 and 
 160 lbs for reference.  I would definitely heed others advice here, and 
 also say that both bikes would likely be great.  I find the two are 
 definitely different in feel, with the Hunq being stiffer, and only 
 slightly heavier.  They both feel great, and with the same wheelset are 
 very close with the difference to me just in weight and stiffness.  I like 
 a little flex and lightness, so...

 If it were me knowing what I know now, I would start with a Hillborne (or 
 AHH) as it will do 99% of what you want.  Probably 100% - they are both up 
 for touring.  I do a mix of commuting, mountain riding, and randonneuring. 
  The AHH excels at all of these, and the Hunq excels at the mountain, and 
 would be 2nd to the AHH on the other two unless you carry 20 lbs on your 
 commute.  I prefer a strong minimal bike for the application, and also 
 having a couple bikes that are set up for a specific application is a 
 luxury I choose to pay for.  

 Here are some stories and pics of both bikes with different setups if you 
 want to do some casual reading :)

 http://www.stonehog.com
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/stonehog/sets

 Good luck, and enjoy whatever comes!  Rivs are great bikes!!

 Brian Hanson
 Seattle, WA

 On Friday, January 31, 2014 10:31:32 AM UTC-8, Mike K. wrote:

 Hi everyone,
 I've been admiring Rivendell's website and the various Flickr pages 
 associated with it for a few years now. This year looks like I should 
 finally be able to buy one. I have a few bikes now that I have set up as 
 near a Rivendell as I can, but they're just not what I'm looking for 
 (probably all psychological, but still). 

 I'm torn between the Sam Hillborne and the Hunqapillar. I don't do any 
 touring now, but that's largely due to not having a bike to do it. I have 
 plenty of friends who go bike camping now that I'm in Texas, and am looking 
 forward to it this summer. Upwards of 30 miles each way, fully loaded with 
 camping gear, food, etc. for a few days' trip.

 Mostly, though, I am a commuter. About 4 miles each way. I have a 
 commuter now, a 1984 Cannondale 56cm ST300 frame with an SR Apex 30/44/48 
 Triple front and a 12-32 8-speed Cassette in the back, 35mm Bontrager 
 Commuter tires with Longboard fenders, Nitto Mustache bars with bar ends 
 and a Nitto Technomic Stem, and a Daija Rear Rack I bought from VO. It's a 
 good bike, but just a tad small and I'm not comfortable loading even for 
 the camping trips.

 I would be all-in for the Hunqa, except I'm concerned about it being a 
 bear to just ride around with a light load or unloaded if I was heading out 
 for a day ride around town, which points me to the Sam. Plus the Sam is a 
 good bit cheaper these days, but I would move a good deal of components 
 from the Cannondale to the new frame.

 Anyway, sorry for the word vomit. My point: anyone have experience with 
 these two as far as handling? I'd love a Hunqa. I think it's a real beauty, 
 diaga-tube and all. I'm 6' even with longish legs. Around an 89 PBH, so I'd 
 be looking at a 58cm in either bike, 2tt on the Sam, diaga-tube on the 
 Hunqa. I'm just afraid it's too beefy for just riding around.

 Any help is much appreciated.

 Cheers,
 Mike

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[RBW] FS/FT--White Industries ENO crankset 175 mm with 2 44 tooth rings

2014-02-04 Thread blakcloud
My single speed days are over. Time to let these go. 

White Industries ENO crankset 175 mm. Two 44 tooth rings. One has about 500 
km on it, they other more but lots of life still in it. 

Price for all $125 plus shipping. Which is around $20-25. Those are 
Canadian dollars which means you pay about $135.00 American dollars.
Crank arms only $100 plus shipping (Canadian dollars).

Fair to good condition with some scratches, Look at the photos 
herehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/87106495@N07/sets/72157635205572514/. 


Replacement cost would be $330. 

For an even better deal, buy and ship to me Paul Thumbies, black 22.2 for 
Shimano shifters and we will call it even. It would cost you less than $100.

Thomas


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[RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

2014-02-04 Thread Michael


 @ Brian:

So what was the issue with your knee on that 300k?
I hope it is all better now.

Nice bikes. The only thing I don't like about front bike bags is that 
they hide the nice headtube paint and lugs from view. But I guess the great 
function is worth it.

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[RBW] Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Michael
Anyone know the diffs between the tube wall thicknesses and weight of these 
bikes.?

I was reading a BQ blog post comment that mentioned the Homer and Roadeo 
and that BQ was interested in testing the Roadeo because it looked like a 
light performance designed bike, with a mention of tubes.
It was an old post from 2011. Wonder if they ever tested it.

I am guessing they were probably interested in the planeing possibilities, 
maybe suggesting that thinner tubes make plane-ing possible, or 
responsiveness possible.

I am guessing that if there is a diff between the two bikes, it is a mm 
at whatever thicknesses.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

2014-02-04 Thread Deacon Patrick
Update (with a loss of Riv content):

Colorado is actually getting snow this year, after years of snow drought 
(by our standards, anyway). We're measuring now in feet again. YES! This is 
a wondrous thing, but wreaks havoc on my winter bikepacking plans. After 
testing it out with my Hunqapillar far less loaded than it would be for 
camping, pushing a bike uphill through 22 of snow is not happening. So, 
how to carry gear without weight above my waist? SkiPulk! I'm hoping it 
works, and there's only one way to find out. Grin. Here is my planned deep 
winter backcountry steed:
http://skipulk.com

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, February 1, 2014 7:58:49 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Here's a great picture of how well fatbikes float. Grin.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/33954883@N08/6502477443/in/photolist-aUAU14-dJCYu4-bXpzQj-bXpznW-91H3LH-8GpMAG-9rQW2p-9rQW2i-9rQW2t-9ddjcg-eUgw2s-93KnUb-9zMD6b-9myP2a-9myM9i-a67ovk-9zMCd3-8GmBqF-aupt2n-ctPFrq-9dgrCQ-9cxD2i-bjBgNz-cYWXYf-b9HmvX-dMAqwf-dMuRT6-dMAqkW-dMAquS-dMAqr1-dNYV7R-dP5wFN-jwUGBB-dGWkeM-arywAL-7zrZZt-dpxL6a-dpxLar-i3Qtq2-7zvJMh-7zvHAW-dkqd8A-dkqcP5-dkqcUm-9cxEJp-9cAN3E-98geDV-98gewP-98gepF-98jo9b-dMAqtA

 With abandon,
 Patrick 

 On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 12:05:28 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I'm not familiar with Motobecane, but wherever this marketing came from 
 I'm calling BS: Float over three feet of soft powder snow A toboggan with 
 a single person on it doesn't do that unless it is packed, and then it 
 doesn't matter how deep it is.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 11:00:25 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:

 The fat bikes don't have to be expensive.  I'm trying so very hard not 
 to purchase one of these...

 http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/fantom-fat-bikes_fb4comp_xiv.htm
 only $695 shipped




 On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:18 AM, Ryan ryte...@mts.net wrote:

 And here's another site with links for winter cycling including 
 maintenance:
  
 http://greenactioncentre.ca/2012/cycling-through-winter/
  
 In Winnipeg, a lot of the couriers go fixed or  single-speed, but we're 
 pretty flat in Winnipeg so the less is more philosophy works well here; 
 obviously this doesn't apply to your situation.
  
 Those fat bikes seem like they'd be great for bikepacking, but they 
 sure aren't  inexpensive, and I realize you want to use your Hunqapillar. 
 I 
 suspect some snowshoes that you could pack would be useful, too if the 
 snow's deep, because I suspect you'll have to hike a lot of sections.
  
 Regards

 On Monday, January 27, 2014 8:21:38 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, Jim. Yes, it is quite a temperature range -- bigger than 
 summer's range. Yesterday, we reached 45 here, and this morning was -5˚F, 
 so that is a 50 degree swing in 18 hours. I've ridden my bike for short 
 rides down to -15˚F. So I'm reasonably comfortable that my setup is OK as 
 is. I didn't see anything super glaring in the list you provided. 

 Yes, miles of deep snow will be an adventure. I'm curious to see how 
 that goes. With my vertigo, I can't carry any weight above my waist, so 
 my 
 wheeled pack-mammoth is my beast of burden. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, January 27, 2014 6:01:01 PM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote: 


 Sorry, forgot the link: http://www.allweathersports.
 com/isport/ibiketips.html

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Chris Lampe 2
I THINK I've seen the tubing thickness for the AHH but I don't remember the 
exact numbers.  I do remember that I was surprised because it was thinner 
tubing than I expected but I do think the AHH stats are out there.  I don't 
recall seeing the Roadeo numbers. 



On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:11:38 AM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 Anyone know the diffs between the tube wall thicknesses and weight of 
 these bikes.?

 I was reading a BQ blog post comment that mentioned the Homer and Roadeo 
 and that BQ was interested in testing the Roadeo because it looked like a 
 light performance designed bike, with a mention of tubes.
 It was an old post from 2011. Wonder if they ever tested it.

 I am guessing they were probably interested in the planeing possibilities, 
 maybe suggesting that thinner tubes make plane-ing possible, or 
 responsiveness possible.

 I am guessing that if there is a diff between the two bikes, it is a mm 
 at whatever thicknesses.



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Re: [RBW] Wool, Ventile, and Quicksnow Non-Intentional Experiment

2014-02-04 Thread jimD

A mighty fine adventure write-up!
Thanks,

-JimD

On Feb 3, 2014, at 12:19 PM, Liesl li...@smm.org wrote:

 I think this qualifies as Riv content given the nature of this winter for 
 many of us in the cold climes, so indulge me for a moment
 
 This weekend, since it's too crappy to ride bikes, I went to my college 
 dorm-mates (circa 1977-78) reunion on a small lake in northern Wisconsin.  
 Cold temps (below zero as we drank morning coffee) and 2-3 feet of wet snow 
 on the ground.  Five of us headed out with our snowshoes onto the lake in the 
 morning just as ice-fishermen were also heading out in their heavy 4-wheel 
 drive pickup.  I was attired in fantastic gear for snowshoeing: vintage 
 buffalo plaid thick wool hunting pants, a down sweater with a wind-proof 
 Empire Canvas cotton anorak over it, Empire boots, and leather chopper mitts. 
  Very quickly, though, the truck got into trouble with 'snow-ice/lake slush 
 and as we watched it, we realized the same thing was happening to us.  We 
 came to call this deep and foot-thick layer of slush 'quicksnow', because it 
 acted a lot like quicksand.  This slush can form when there's a really heavy 
 snow cover on a lake and it depresses the ice and water seeps over the top or 
 through ice fishing holes.  Anyway, we see the truck spinning up green slush, 
 look down at our feet and see that we too are sinking into about a foot of 
 wet wet slush, and elect to *urgently* move to the shore, which was about 
 50-75 feet away. (see attached photo of the truck's standing-water 
 tracks--water still standing 8 hours after this story happened!)
 
 Thinking the pier that someone hadn't taken out for the winter would do the 
 trick, my friend Kris and I made a b-line toward it.  But the pier was too 
 high and covered with, again, over 2 feet of snow, and it became clear in a 
 hurry that the pier was not our salvation; we're now about 20 feet from the 
 shore.  I look down and the decks of my snowshoes are covered in very watery 
 slush that is instant-freezing to their decks and bindings.  I attempt to 
 move my literally freezing feet and fall over onto my side.  Immediately and 
 with dread, I feel ice water seeping in at my wrist and elbow.  I now have a 
 sense of panic because I am wearing a down sweater with a cotton anorak over 
 it and my boots also have cotton tops.   I can see that my wool hunting pants 
 are in the water, but I don't feel it seeping through. I knew if I tried to 
 right myself I would wallow more in this icy water and become perhaps really 
 soaked.  I calmly yet urgently said to my friend Kris, I need help getting 
 up.  She swiftly pulled me up and I got myself to a sappling on the shore.  
 All of us made it out to the shore/road and back to the cabin with no 
 hypothermia.  I've attached before and end-of-the-day photos with both 
 fetching ensembles.
 
 Okay, here's the Riv point:  I wore my heavy wool pants, wool lined choppers, 
 and wool-lined Empire canvas boots for the entire rest of the day, which was 
 spent outdoors.  I traded out my upper torso garments for a ski sweater and a 
 Filson vest.  Wool, the miracle fabric.  Keeping people warm and alive for 
 10,000 years.
 
 My question:  how would the Riv Rain Jacket have done?  Would it have kept my 
 down sweater dry in this situation?  Any ventile-wearers (meaning at least 
 you, Deacon Patrick) with any kind of similar experience?
 
 -Riv Chica Warrior of the Quicksnow!
 
 
 
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[RBW] Re: Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Chris Lampe 2
I did a little searching.  I'm pretty sure I've seen the AHH tubing 
thicknesses in print but I don't remember exactly what they were.  I'm 
thinking .7-.5-.7 or in that ball park.  I found a thread on another forum 
where a poster quotes Grant as specifying the Roadeo having  .65-.45-.65 
tubing.  I found a Riv article stating the Atlantis is .9-.6.-.9.   Riv's 
website states the Sam Hillborne is in between the Atlantis  AHH in tubing 
thickness so if  Atlantis is 9-6-9  Roadeo is 6-4-6, that leaves the 
Hillborne at 8-5-8  the AHH at 7-4-7 or roughly where I was thinking it 
was.  



On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:11:38 AM UTC-6, Michael wrote:

 Anyone know the diffs between the tube wall thicknesses and weight of 
 these bikes.?

 I was reading a BQ blog post comment that mentioned the Homer and Roadeo 
 and that BQ was interested in testing the Roadeo because it looked like a 
 light performance designed bike, with a mention of tubes.
 It was an old post from 2011. Wonder if they ever tested it.

 I am guessing they were probably interested in the planeing possibilities, 
 maybe suggesting that thinner tubes make plane-ing possible, or 
 responsiveness possible.

 I am guessing that if there is a diff between the two bikes, it is a mm 
 at whatever thicknesses.



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RE: [RBW] Re: Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
The AHH tubing specs are listed in a Blug entry, I think a couple of years ago.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Lampe 2
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2014 11:12 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

I did a little searching.  I'm pretty sure I've seen the AHH tubing thicknesses 
in print but I don't remember exactly what they were.  I'm thinking .7-.5-.7 or 
in that ball park.  I found a thread on another forum where a poster quotes 
Grant as specifying the Roadeo having  .65-.45-.65 tubing.  I found a Riv 
article stating the Atlantis is .9-.6.-.9.   Riv's website states the Sam 
Hillborne is in between the Atlantis  AHH in tubing thickness so if  Atlantis 
is 9-6-9  Roadeo is 6-4-6, that leaves the Hillborne at 8-5-8  the AHH at 
7-4-7 or roughly where I was thinking it was.



On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:11:38 AM UTC-6, Michael wrote:
Anyone know the diffs between the tube wall thicknesses and weight of these 
bikes.?

I was reading a BQ blog post comment that mentioned the Homer and Roadeo and 
that BQ was interested in testing the Roadeo because it looked like a light 
performance designed bike, with a mention of tubes.
It was an old post from 2011. Wonder if they ever tested it.

I am guessing they were probably interested in the planeing possibilities, 
maybe suggesting that thinner tubes make plane-ing possible, or responsiveness 
possible.

I am guessing that if there is a diff between the two bikes, it is a mm at 
whatever thicknesses.

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Mike Schiller
The Hilsens are 8/5/8 OS tubing as are the Roadeos in larger sizes.  The 
smaller Roadeo's are 7/4/7 OS. If I recall correctly.  Much stiffer than 
anything Jan likes.

~mike

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 7:11:38 AM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 Anyone know the diffs between the tube wall thicknesses and weight of 
 these bikes.?

 I was reading a BQ blog post comment that mentioned the Homer and Roadeo 
 and that BQ was interested in testing the Roadeo because it looked like a 
 light performance designed bike, with a mention of tubes.
 It was an old post from 2011. Wonder if they ever tested it.

 I am guessing they were probably interested in the planeing possibilities, 
 maybe suggesting that thinner tubes make plane-ing possible, or 
 responsiveness possible.

 I am guessing that if there is a diff between the two bikes, it is a mm 
 at whatever thicknesses.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Looking for my first Rivendell

2014-02-04 Thread Bill
I read yesterday that Alex Moulton rode 8 to 9 miles a day into his 90s. 
 If I can match that, then when my Sam and Saluki wear out there's still 
time for another Riv purchase.  Life gets shortened by not riding a bike.

On Sunday, February 2, 2014 10:15:59 PM UTC-5, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

  On the one hand, I don't want to beat it up unnecessarily through the 
 winter grit, but on the other hand, life's too short not to ride the good 
 bike.

 Couldn't agree more Shoji!


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Re: [RBW] Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Bruce Herbitter

or maybe .1 mm.

On other models differences have involved how many butts and if heat 
treated or not, or taper details to yield the desired end results.

On 2/4/2014 9:11 AM, Michael wrote:


I am guessing that if there is a diff between the two bikes, it is a 
mm at whatever thicknesses.




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[RBW] Re: Saddle Tattoos and Hot Chocolate!

2014-02-04 Thread Bill
Cow stoppage.   Uhhh...  that ain't a cow!

On Monday, January 27, 2014 1:24:33 AM UTC-5, Manuel Acosta wrote:

 Enjoy the short rides.
 With the stresses of work and school. 
 It's important to remember to make time for yourself.

 Long ride, short rides, mixed terrain or road. all of that matters is that 
 you have the simple things.
 Good views, great friends, and good cheese.

 Hot chocolate works well too.

 Pictures Proved that unedited photos doesn't mean I'm trying to be artsy I 
 just don't have a computer to edit photos:
 http://flic.kr/ps/Chtka

 Manny Hot Chocolate is the jam Acosta


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[RBW] First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Eric Norris
Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of flats 
with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires). Got my first 
flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark. Close enough to 
home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the flat inside the house.

This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess isn't 
that bad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine's blog post:

The Grand Bois Hetre 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for most 
riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them. It's 
probably a combination of the width - less pressure means that the tire can 
roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber - and perhaps the tread 
profile.

If you're running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?

--Eric Norris
Email: campyonly...@me.com
Web: www.campyonly.com
Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo vs. Homer tube thickness and weight

2014-02-04 Thread Jim M.

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 8:52:07 AM UTC-8, Mike Schiller wrote:

 The Hilsens are 8/5/8 OS tubing as are the Roadeos in larger sizes.  The 
 smaller Roadeo's are 7/4/7 OS. If I recall correctly.  Much stiffer than 
 anything Jan likes.



Not to split hairs too finely, but the Roadeo's are .65/.45/65.

jim m
wc ca

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[RBW] First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread justinaugust
None. 2 years and Philly streets are nothing to sneeze at. 

-J

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Re: [RBW] First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Toshi Takeuchi
1 flat on my first 20 mile ride (metal wire), but none since ~1000 mi.

Toshi in Oakland (flat in Orinda), CA

On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 10:23 AM,  justinaug...@gmail.com wrote:
 None. 2 years and Philly streets are nothing to sneeze at.

 -J

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Re: [RBW] First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Tim Gavin
I have Lierres (38mm, my Riv Road won't fit Hetres) and had 1 flat in
almost 1000 miles so far.  I swapped the tube and then patched the flat
one.  I never did find what caused it; it left a small, single hole.

I have about 500 miles on a set of Cerf Blues and had no flats so far.

Tim


On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 12:30 PM, Toshi Takeuchi tto...@gmail.com wrote:

 1 flat on my first 20 mile ride (metal wire), but none since ~1000 mi.

 Toshi in Oakland (flat in Orinda), CA

 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 10:23 AM,  justinaug...@gmail.com wrote:
  None. 2 years and Philly streets are nothing to sneeze at.
 
  -J
 
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[RBW] Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

2014-02-04 Thread Tim Gavin
My next bike project is to build up some new 650b wheels for my Riv Road,
using its original Phil hubs.  I'm soliciting advice for which spoke
gauge/butting to use.

Use:
Road riding/light trail rambling
Touring (220lb rider, ~25lb bike, ~20-40lb load)

Parts:
Phil Wood 36h Road hub (front) / Phil Wood 36h Road FW hub (rear)
Velocity Synergy 650B rims
3x Cross laced DT Swiss spokes --- gauge???

Which gauge of spoke is good for this situation?  I want light weight but
with enough strength for the heavy load.  What gauge/butting would be too
light?  Is straight gauge overkill?  Will using 36h allow me to use a
slightly lighter gauge?

Rim:  Can I use a symmetrical rim in the rear, or do I have to use one with
asymmetrical drilling?  The Phil Wood FW hub's flanges are only 5mm left of
center, better than most cassette hubs.  I already have two symmetrical
Synergy rims, so I'd like to use them for front and rear if I can.

Thanks!

Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA

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Re: [RBW] Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

2014-02-04 Thread mikel66...@juno.com
first, i would try to find a cassette rear hub rather than a freewheel hub. i 
use modern shimano 9 speed hubs and have on occassion removed the 8/9 speed 
freehub in favor of a 7 speed freehub. using a 135mm axel in conjunction with a 
7 speed freehub greatly reduces dish and adds to wheel strength...as will an 
asym rear rim

a double butted 2.0/1.8 spoke is a good compromise between strength/lightness. 
i also have used straight gauge 2.0 spokes on touring wheels with good results

Do THIS before eating carbs #40;every time#41;
1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar  decrease fat storage
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/52f145d85d5c145d8122bst04duc

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[RBW] Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Clayton
It could be named: Used Rivendellian items for sale.

Claytonious Q



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[RBW] Re: Wool, Ventile, and Quicksnow Non-Intentional Experiment

2014-02-04 Thread Cecily Walker
I have no thoughts on the robustness of the Riv gear, but you sure do tell 
a good story. 

On Monday, February 3, 2014 12:19:18 PM UTC-8, Liesl wrote:

 I think this qualifies as Riv content given the nature of this winter for 
 many of us in the cold climes, so indulge me for a moment

 This weekend, since it's too crappy to ride bikes, I went to my college 
 dorm-mates (circa 1977-78) reunion on a small lake in northern Wisconsin.  
 Cold temps (below zero as we drank morning coffee) and 2-3 feet of wet snow 
 on the ground.  Five of us headed out with our snowshoes onto the lake in 
 the morning just as ice-fishermen were also heading out in their heavy 
 4-wheel drive pickup.  I was attired in fantastic gear for snowshoeing: 
 vintage buffalo plaid thick wool hunting pants, a down sweater with a 
 wind-proof Empire Canvas cotton anorak over it, Empire boots, and leather 
 chopper mitts.  Very quickly, though, the truck got into trouble with 
 'snow-ice/lake slush and as we watched it, we realized the same thing was 
 happening to us.  We came to call this deep and foot-thick layer of slush 
 'quicksnow', because it acted a lot like quicksand.  This slush can form 
 when there's a really heavy snow cover on a lake and it depresses the ice 
 and water seeps over the top or through ice fishing holes.  Anyway, we see 
 the truck spinning up green slush, look down at our feet and see that we 
 too are sinking into about a foot of wet wet slush, and elect to *urgently* 
 move to the shore, which was about 50-75 feet away. (see attached photo of 
 the truck's standing-water tracks—water still standing 8 hours after this 
 story happened!)

 Thinking the pier that someone hadn't taken out for the winter would do 
 the trick, my friend Kris and I made a b-line toward it.  But the pier was 
 too high and covered with, again, over 2 feet of snow, and it became clear 
 in a hurry that the pier was not our salvation; we're now about 20 feet 
 from the shore.  I look down and the decks of my snowshoes are covered in 
 very watery slush that is instant-freezing to their decks and bindings.  I 
 attempt to move my literally freezing feet and fall over onto my side.  
 Immediately and with dread, I feel ice water seeping in at my wrist and 
 elbow.  I now have a sense of panic because I am wearing a down sweater 
 with a cotton anorak over it and my boots also have cotton tops.   I can 
 see that my wool hunting pants are in the water, but I don't feel it 
 seeping through. I knew if I tried to right myself I would wallow more in 
 this icy water and become perhaps really soaked.  I calmly yet urgently 
 said to my friend Kris, I need help getting up.  She swiftly pulled me up 
 and I got myself to a sappling on the shore.  All of us made it out to the 
 shore/road and back to the cabin with no hypothermia.  I've attached before 
 and end-of-the-day photos with both fetching ensembles.

 Okay, here's the Riv point:  I wore my heavy wool pants, wool lined 
 choppers, and wool-lined Empire canvas boots for the entire rest of the 
 day, which was spent outdoors.  I traded out my upper torso garments for a 
 ski sweater and a Filson vest.  Wool, the miracle fabric.  Keeping people 
 warm and alive for 10,000 years.

 My question:  how would the Riv Rain Jacket have done?  Would it have kept 
 my down sweater dry in this situation?  Any ventile-wearers (meaning at 
 least you, Deacon Patrick) with any kind of similar experience?

 -Riv Chica Warrior of the Quicksnow!




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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Michael Hechmer
I've got about 500 miles on a pair of Grand Bois Cerf (29mm) and have not 
had a flat.  But I rarely ride into town on these tires.

Michael

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 12:53:11 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of 
 flats with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires). 
 Got my first flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark. 
 Close enough to home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the 
 flat inside the house.

 This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess 
 isn’t *that* bad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine’s blog post:

 The Grand Bois “Hetre” 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for 
 most riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them. 
 It’s probably a combination of the width – less pressure means that the 
 tire can roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber – and perhaps 
 the tread profile.

 If you’re running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?

 --Eric Norris
 Email: campyo...@me.com javascript:
 Web: www.campyonly.com
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy 



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[RBW] Re: FS/FT--White Industries ENO crankset 175 mm with 2 44 tooth rings

2014-02-04 Thread blakcloud
These have been traded tentatively. Thanks to all those who responded. 

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:44:53 AM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:

 My single speed days are over. Time to let these go. 

 White Industries ENO crankset 175 mm. Two 44 tooth rings. One has about 
 500 km on it, they other more but lots of life still in it. 

 Price for all $125 plus shipping. Which is around $20-25. Those are 
 Canadian dollars which means you pay about $135.00 American dollars.
 Crank arms only $100 plus shipping (Canadian dollars).

 Fair to good condition with some scratches, Look at the photos 
 herehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/87106495@N07/sets/72157635205572514/. 


 Replacement cost would be $330. 

 For an even better deal, buy and ship to me Paul Thumbies, black 22.2 for 
 Shimano shifters and we will call it even. It would cost you less than $100.

 Thomas




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[RBW] Re: Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Ron Mc
seems to be a winter thing - same thing is happening on i-bob

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:25:22 PM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:

 It could be named: Used Rivendellian items for sale.

 Claytonious Q





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Re: [RBW] Re: Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Peter Morgano
Agreed, soon spring will be here and ride reports and mechanical questions
will balance out the parts sales. We probably all have stuff in our parts
bins we want to unload before spring, and hey I think its making both
seller and buyer happy so I say live and let live, but buy from Riv if you
can.


On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 seems to be a winter thing - same thing is happening on i-bob


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:25:22 PM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:

 It could be named: Used Rivendellian items for sale.

 Claytonious Q



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[RBW] Re: Cotton and Wool Winter Army Gear

2014-02-04 Thread frenchosa
Montclair BobbyB:

I am interested in the Swedish military wool sweater.   It says dry clean 
only...Can you get away with washing it by hand or in a washing machine?

I don't like to use dry cleaning on my outdoor clothes.   

Michael
Osaka, Japan

On Monday, February 3, 2014 12:50:25 AM UTC+9, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I got a little creative this year with my winter gear, 
 trading synthetic (lycra, fleece and Gore Tex) for some traditional wool 
 and cotton Army gear, and boy am I glad I did.  We've had some fabulous 
 winter conditions for snowshoeing and mountain biking here in NJ and I got 
 to put my new gear to the test.  For the past week the snow has been too 
 deep and powdery (a rarity for NJ), which is great for showshoeing, and 
 thanks to steady foot traffic the trails have become semi-packed, adequate 
 for 2.3 in knobbies to climb and descend even the steep trails...

 I've recently acquired 2 pieces of Swedish Army surplus gear; a 100% wool 
 zipper sweater with extra long sleeves (with thumb holes), and a heavy 
 cotton snow smock, both awesome and inexpensive.  For warmth on yesterday's 
 ride I wore 2 layers of wool (a thin Merino base layer and the Swedish 
 sweater). For my outer shell I wore the snow smock.  Typically I had been 
 used to shedding layers at the top of a major climb (from 
 over-heating)... With this wool-cotton setup the heat buildup was more 
 gradual, and seemed to dissipate MUCH faster (due to the high breathability 
 of the fabric).  I posted a few weeks ago that I had also picked up a 
 wool Boreal shirt (made from wool army blankets), which is 
 SO ridiculously warm I left that at home.  But for super cold days the wool 
 Boreal and the cotton snow smock make an outstanding combo for active wear 
 where you expect to be perspiring.

 And although it's not Army surplus, I added a Ventile cotton jacket (which 
 WAS developed by the British military) as my everyday winter jacket that I 
 wear to the office.. it just FEELS amazing.

 I do get some odd looks and smiles from people, *(especially my brother, 
 who refers to me as Luke Skywalker)* when I'm wearing the snow smock, I 
 REALLY love this gear, and am now on the lookout for other similar gear 
 from military establishments around the world... *(hey, this stuff is 
 field-tested, right?)*   Anyone else a fan of *(peacetime use)* of 
 army gear?? 

 Peace,
 BB 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Ron Mc
having both bought and sold here, including selling to WTB threads, I'm 
much in favor, but will also note that using the transactions tag is a 
plus.  

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 3:15:22 PM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 Agreed, soon spring will be here and ride reports and mechanical questions 
 will balance out the parts sales. We probably all have stuff in our parts 
 bins we want to unload before spring, and hey I think its making both 
 seller and buyer happy so I say live and let live, but buy from Riv if you 
 can. 


 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 seems to be a winter thing - same thing is happening on i-bob


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:25:22 PM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:

 It could be named: Used Rivendellian items for sale.

 Claytonious Q



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Re: [RBW] Re: Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Bruce Herbitter

And as Jim has noted, it's not up for a vote anyway.

#justride..
On 2/4/2014 4:01 PM, Ron Mc wrote:
having both bought and sold here, including selling to WTB threads, 
I'm much in favor, but will also note that using the transactions tag 
is a plus.


O


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Re: [RBW] Re: Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Jim Bronson
what's the appropriate transaction tag?


On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 having both bought and sold here, including selling to WTB threads, I'm
 much in favor, but will also note that using the transactions tag is a
 plus.


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 3:15:22 PM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 Agreed, soon spring will be here and ride reports and mechanical
 questions will balance out the parts sales. We probably all have stuff in
 our parts bins we want to unload before spring, and hey I think its making
 both seller and buyer happy so I say live and let live, but buy from Riv if
 you can.


 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:

  seems to be a winter thing - same thing is happening on i-bob


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:25:22 PM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:

 It could be named: Used Rivendellian items for sale.

 Claytonious Q



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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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Re: [RBW] First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Jim Bronson
I've gotten flats on the last two brevets I did on my Pari-Motos.  I think
I'm going to have to throw the back tire out soon, the center section has
worn smooth and I'm not sure how much farther it can go.  It has maybe 700
miles on it.  Oh well, I enjoy the ride.


On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 11:53 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of
 flats with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires).
 Got my first flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark.
 Close enough to home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the
 flat inside the house.

 This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess
 isn't *that* bad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine's blog post:

 The Grand Bois Hetre 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for
 most riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them.
 It's probably a combination of the width - less pressure means that the
 tire can roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber - and perhaps
 the tread profile.

 If you're running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?

 --Eric Norris
 Email: campyonly...@me.com
 Web: www.campyonly.com
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Changing the name or splitting of this group?

2014-02-04 Thread Ron Mc
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!tags/rbw-owners-bunch/transactions-sell-buy-trade

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 5:48:36 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 what's the appropriate transaction tag?


 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 having both bought and sold here, including selling to WTB threads, I'm 
 much in favor, but will also note that using the transactions tag is a 
 plus.  


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 3:15:22 PM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 Agreed, soon spring will be here and ride reports and mechanical 
 questions will balance out the parts sales. We probably all have stuff in 
 our parts bins we want to unload before spring, and hey I think its making 
 both seller and buyer happy so I say live and let live, but buy from Riv if 
 you can. 


 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 4:00 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:

  seems to be a winter thing - same thing is happening on i-bob


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 2:25:22 PM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:

 It could be named: Used Rivendellian items for sale.

 Claytonious Q



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[RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

2014-02-04 Thread Ron Mc
I think the asymmetric rear rim is the greatest thing since sealed 
bearings.  It lets you build a stronger rear wheel with narrower axle and 
more gears.  

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 1:41:25 PM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:

 My next bike project is to build up some new 650b wheels for my Riv Road, 
 using its original Phil hubs.  I'm soliciting advice for which spoke 
 gauge/butting to use.

 Use:
 Road riding/light trail rambling
 Touring (220lb rider, ~25lb bike, ~20-40lb load)

 Parts:
 Phil Wood 36h Road hub (front) / Phil Wood 36h Road FW hub (rear)
 Velocity Synergy 650B rims
 3x Cross laced DT Swiss spokes --- gauge???

 Which gauge of spoke is good for this situation?  I want light weight but 
 with enough strength for the heavy load.  What gauge/butting would be too 
 light?  Is straight gauge overkill?  Will using 36h allow me to use a 
 slightly lighter gauge?

 Rim:  Can I use a symmetrical rim in the rear, or do I have to use one 
 with asymmetrical drilling?  The Phil Wood FW hub's flanges are only 5mm 
 left of center, better than most cassette hubs.  I already have two 
 symmetrical Synergy rims, so I'd like to use them for front and rear if I 
 can.

 Thanks!

 Tim Gavin
 Cedar Rapids, IA


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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Bill Lindsay
Eric

I've had no fewer flats on Hetres than anything else.  Hetre ELs on my 
Rawland, and I've flatted once in the first 500 miles.  I've run standard 
Hetres on my Hilsen, and I've flatted with them.  In all cases legitimate 
punctures where I've found the wire, or thorn or glass embedded in the tire 
opposite the hole in the tube and pulled it out.  

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 9:53:11 AM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:

 Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of 
 flats with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires). 
 Got my first flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark. 
 Close enough to home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the 
 flat inside the house.

 This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess 
 isn’t *that* bad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine’s blog post:

 The Grand Bois “Hetre” 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for 
 most riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them. 
 It’s probably a combination of the width – less pressure means that the 
 tire can roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber – and perhaps 
 the tread profile.

 If you’re running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?

 --Eric Norris
 Email: campyo...@me.com javascript:
 Web: www.campyonly.com
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

2014-02-04 Thread Eric Platt
The only wheel I ever built used a Phil FW rear hub.  Pretty sure the rim
was not offset.  Hopefully it is still providing service for the present
owner of that Hillborne.

Personally, I prefer straight spokes, but most folks agree butted are
actually stronger.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 6:29 PM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think the asymmetric rear rim is the greatest thing since sealed
 bearings.  It lets you build a stronger rear wheel with narrower axle and
 more gears.


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 1:41:25 PM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:

 My next bike project is to build up some new 650b wheels for my Riv Road,
 using its original Phil hubs.  I'm soliciting advice for which spoke
 gauge/butting to use.

 Use:
 Road riding/light trail rambling
 Touring (220lb rider, ~25lb bike, ~20-40lb load)

 Parts:
 Phil Wood 36h Road hub (front) / Phil Wood 36h Road FW hub (rear)
 Velocity Synergy 650B rims
 3x Cross laced DT Swiss spokes --- gauge???

 Which gauge of spoke is good for this situation?  I want light weight but
 with enough strength for the heavy load.  What gauge/butting would be too
 light?  Is straight gauge overkill?  Will using 36h allow me to use a
 slightly lighter gauge?

 Rim:  Can I use a symmetrical rim in the rear, or do I have to use one
 with asymmetrical drilling?  The Phil Wood FW hub's flanges are only 5mm
 left of center, better than most cassette hubs.  I already have two
 symmetrical Synergy rims, so I'd like to use them for front and rear if I
 can.

 Thanks!

 Tim Gavin
 Cedar Rapids, IA

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

2014-02-04 Thread Jason Marshall

There are tons of really cheap $100 - $200 tandems on craigslist.  I just 
bought a 1969 Schwinn Twinn for $125.  Obviously this isn't an event grade 
bike but my girlfriend and I have had a good time playing around with it in 
the city.

I would suggest you consider picking up something inexpensive at first to 
make sure you both enjoy riding together.  I know everyone here appreciates 
fine craftsmanship and high quality but there is always something to be 
said for having a fun POS that you can just get silly with.

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[RBW] Re: Project - Trail Bike

2014-02-04 Thread Tonester
May be a good time to revisit Riv - they're apparently covered up in small 
frames.  A deal might be had.

On Sunday, February 2, 2014 5:34:32 PM UTC-8, Lesli Larson wrote:

 Starting project to build up a new fire trail / off-road bike . I am 
 trying to decide between a new frame and maybe something vintage . I am a 
 shortish woman and I ride a 48 cm to 50 cm frame. Would love to buy a 
 bombadil or Atlantis but what do folks recommend in the the used/vintage 
 category. What would your bike build look like?  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

2014-02-04 Thread ascpgh
Butted spokes stronger?

Lighter I get. Is dynamic elasticity on a built wheel in use more focused 
in the thinned spoke length, between the butts, isolating the nipple 
threading and elbow (failure points) from stress?

I've heard wheel builders preferring butted spokes to distribute some of 
the stresses from rim eyelets and hub flanges by way of the greater 
elasticity of the spokes compared to straight gauge and I can vouch for a 
more lively feeling wheel set when using DBs. Just never heard of a DB 
spoke being a stronger wheel component itself.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 8:26:38 PM UTC-5, EricP wrote:

 The only wheel I ever built used a Phil FW rear hub.  Pretty sure the rim 
 was not offset.  Hopefully it is still providing service for the present 
 owner of that Hillborne.  

 Personally, I prefer straight spokes, but most folks agree butted are 
 actually stronger.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 6:29 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 I think the asymmetric rear rim is the greatest thing since sealed 
 bearings.  It lets you build a stronger rear wheel with narrower axle and 
 more gears.  


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 1:41:25 PM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:

 My next bike project is to build up some new 650b wheels for my Riv 
 Road, using its original Phil hubs.  I'm soliciting advice for which spoke 
 gauge/butting to use.

 Use:
 Road riding/light trail rambling
 Touring (220lb rider, ~25lb bike, ~20-40lb load)

 Parts:
 Phil Wood 36h Road hub (front) / Phil Wood 36h Road FW hub (rear)
 Velocity Synergy 650B rims
 3x Cross laced DT Swiss spokes --- gauge???

 Which gauge of spoke is good for this situation?  I want light weight 
 but with enough strength for the heavy load.  What gauge/butting would be 
 too light?  Is straight gauge overkill?  Will using 36h allow me to use a 
 slightly lighter gauge?

 Rim:  Can I use a symmetrical rim in the rear, or do I have to use one 
 with asymmetrical drilling?  The Phil Wood FW hub's flanges are only 5mm 
 left of center, better than most cassette hubs.  I already have two 
 symmetrical Synergy rims, so I'd like to use them for front and rear if I 
 can.

 Thanks!

 Tim Gavin
 Cedar Rapids, IA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

2014-02-04 Thread ascpgh
Downhill braking of that load seems to be a problem unless you let the 
cart in front of the donkey and belay the load.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh 

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 10:54:47 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Update (with a loss of Riv content):

 Colorado is actually getting snow this year, after years of snow drought 
 (by our standards, anyway). We're measuring now in feet again. YES! This is 
 a wondrous thing, but wreaks havoc on my winter bikepacking plans. After 
 testing it out with my Hunqapillar far less loaded than it would be for 
 camping, pushing a bike uphill through 22 of snow is not happening. So, 
 how to carry gear without weight above my waist? SkiPulk! I'm hoping it 
 works, and there's only one way to find out. Grin. Here is my planned deep 
 winter backcountry steed:
 http://skipulk.com

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, February 1, 2014 7:58:49 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Here's a great picture of how well fatbikes float. Grin.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/33954883@N08/6502477443/in/photolist-aUAU14-dJCYu4-bXpzQj-bXpznW-91H3LH-8GpMAG-9rQW2p-9rQW2i-9rQW2t-9ddjcg-eUgw2s-93KnUb-9zMD6b-9myP2a-9myM9i-a67ovk-9zMCd3-8GmBqF-aupt2n-ctPFrq-9dgrCQ-9cxD2i-bjBgNz-cYWXYf-b9HmvX-dMAqwf-dMuRT6-dMAqkW-dMAquS-dMAqr1-dNYV7R-dP5wFN-jwUGBB-dGWkeM-arywAL-7zrZZt-dpxL6a-dpxLar-i3Qtq2-7zvJMh-7zvHAW-dkqd8A-dkqcP5-dkqcUm-9cxEJp-9cAN3E-98geDV-98gewP-98gepF-98jo9b-dMAqtA

 With abandon,
 Patrick 

 On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 12:05:28 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I'm not familiar with Motobecane, but wherever this marketing came from 
 I'm calling BS: Float over three feet of soft powder snow A toboggan with 
 a single person on it doesn't do that unless it is packed, and then it 
 doesn't matter how deep it is.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 11:00:25 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:

 The fat bikes don't have to be expensive.  I'm trying so very hard not 
 to purchase one of these...

 http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/fantom-fat-bikes_fb4comp_xiv.htm
 only $695 shipped




 On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:18 AM, Ryan ryte...@mts.net wrote:

 And here's another site with links for winter cycling including 
 maintenance:
  
 http://greenactioncentre.ca/2012/cycling-through-winter/
  
 In Winnipeg, a lot of the couriers go fixed or  single-speed, but 
 we're pretty flat in Winnipeg so the less is more philosophy works well 
 here; obviously this doesn't apply to your situation.
  
 Those fat bikes seem like they'd be great for bikepacking, but they 
 sure aren't  inexpensive, and I realize you want to use your Hunqapillar. 
 I 
 suspect some snowshoes that you could pack would be useful, too if the 
 snow's deep, because I suspect you'll have to hike a lot of sections.
  
 Regards

 On Monday, January 27, 2014 8:21:38 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks, Jim. Yes, it is quite a temperature range -- bigger than 
 summer's range. Yesterday, we reached 45 here, and this morning was 
 -5˚F, 
 so that is a 50 degree swing in 18 hours. I've ridden my bike for short 
 rides down to -15˚F. So I'm reasonably comfortable that my setup is OK 
 as 
 is. I didn't see anything super glaring in the list you provided. 

 Yes, miles of deep snow will be an adventure. I'm curious to see how 
 that goes. With my vertigo, I can't carry any weight above my waist, so 
 my 
 wheeled pack-mammoth is my beast of burden. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, January 27, 2014 6:01:01 PM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote: 


 Sorry, forgot the link: http://www.allweathersports.
 com/isport/ibiketips.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

2014-02-04 Thread Ron Mc
My buddy had his Cannondale tandem set up for him with his two daughters - 
the taller as stoker and the much shorter daughter on a Burley Piccolo 
trailer bike.  

On Friday, January 31, 2014 2:51:06 PM UTC-6, Tim McNamara wrote:

 On Jan 31, 2014, at 2:42 PM, Bill Lindsay tape...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote: 
  
Hopefully there will be a small window where he's tall enough to ride 
 the tandem with me and not old enough to realize his dad is a huge dork and 
 not want to ride it with me.   

 The dilemma of fatherhood in a nutshell.

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[RBW] Bosco interrupted?

2014-02-04 Thread BSWP
Just wondering and pondering on the wonderful ponderosa of possibilities, 
and so I'll ask - has anyone put reverse-action brake levers on Bosco bars, 
and also run the cables along the bars, under tape, to a pair of 
interruptors at the stem? Seems like that setup could provide a dreamy 
surface for hand positions with brakes at both ends, and nothing inbetween 
to catch your hands as they move forth and back.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Bill
I've had three having covering maybe a thousand miles.  The last was about 
a year ago at night in 25 degree windy weather.  I hoofed it about a 
quarter mile to a school that had a flood light on.  I always carry a spare 
tube and with light I was able to swap it out.  The culprit was a small 
rose thorn.  The heavy mittens I ride with in the winter are no help when 
changing a flat, so I got mighty cold hand in the process.  I still like 
the Hetres enough to continue riding on them, but now I carry a pair of 
light gloves when the temperature drops.

On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 12:53:11 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of 
 flats with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires). 
 Got my first flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark. 
 Close enough to home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the 
 flat inside the house.

 This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess 
 isn’t *that* bad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine’s blog post:

 The Grand Bois “Hetre” 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for 
 most riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them. 
 It’s probably a combination of the width – less pressure means that the 
 tire can roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber – and perhaps 
 the tread profile.

 If you’re running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?

 --Eric Norris
 Email: campyo...@me.com javascript:
 Web: www.campyonly.com
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy 



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Re: [RBW] Bosco interrupted?

2014-02-04 Thread James Warren

You have me wanting to try that.

Especially since I'm thinking of putting Boscos on a Niner mountain bike.


On Feb 4, 2014, at 6:50 PM, BSWP wrote:

 Just wondering and pondering on the wonderful ponderosa of possibilities, and 
 so I'll ask - has anyone put reverse-action brake levers on Bosco bars, and 
 also run the cables along the bars, under tape, to a pair of interruptors at 
 the stem? Seems like that setup could provide a dreamy surface for hand 
 positions with brakes at both ends, and nothing inbetween to catch your hands 
 as they move forth and back.
 
 - Andrew, Berkeley
 
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jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- 700x55





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Re: [RBW] First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Joan Oppel
2-3 flats in 4,000 miles of riding, urban, rural, gravel mixed.JoanOn 02/04/14, Eric Norriscampyonly...@me.com wrote:Well, so much for one of my fantasies (about the very low incidence of flats with Grand Bois Hetres and other high-volume, low-pressure tires). Got my first flat last night while I was out for a short ride in the dark. Close enough to home that I hoofed it the rest of the way and fixed the flat inside the house.This was my first flat after about 500-600 miles of riding, which I guess isn’t thatbad. Guess my hopes were raised by Jan Heine’s blog post:The Grand Bois “Hetre” 650B x 42 mm tires are amazingly flat-proof for most riders. I have had two flats in three years of urban riding on them. It’s probably a combination of the width – less pressure means that the tire can roll over debris without it cutting into the rubber – and perhaps the tread profile.If you’re running GB Hetres, what is your experience with flats?--Eric NorrisEmail: campyonly...@me.comWeb: www.campyonly.comBlog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.comTwitter: @CampyOnlyGuyFlickr:www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.



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[RBW] Re: FS: Filson Oil Cloth Parka (L) $200, like new

2014-02-04 Thread Kevin Mulcahy


I will entertain any reasonable offer. If you'd like the jacket, please 
contact me off list with a price that you'd be happy with and let work 
something out. 

Thanks again,
Kevin

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[RBW] Re: First Grand Bois Flat :-(

2014-02-04 Thread Mike Schiller
I'm almost reluctant to say, bad karma and all no flats in about 1200 
miles on mine including some pretty rough dirt.

~mike
Carlsbad Ca.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Wheelbuilding advice: spoke gauge? symmetrical rim?

2014-02-04 Thread Jim Bronson
It makes for a more durable wheel, imo.  How one ultimately defines
stronger I guess is up to individual interpretation.
On Feb 4, 2014 7:54 PM, ascpgh asc@gmail.com wrote:

 Butted spokes stronger?

 Lighter I get. Is dynamic elasticity on a built wheel in use more focused
 in the thinned spoke length, between the butts, isolating the nipple
 threading and elbow (failure points) from stress?

 I've heard wheel builders preferring butted spokes to distribute some of
 the stresses from rim eyelets and hub flanges by way of the greater
 elasticity of the spokes compared to straight gauge and I can vouch for a
 more lively feeling wheel set when using DBs. Just never heard of a DB
 spoke being a stronger wheel component itself.

 Andy Cheatham
 Pittsburgh

 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 8:26:38 PM UTC-5, EricP wrote:

 The only wheel I ever built used a Phil FW rear hub.  Pretty sure the rim
 was not offset.  Hopefully it is still providing service for the present
 owner of that Hillborne.

 Personally, I prefer straight spokes, but most folks agree butted are
 actually stronger.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


 On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 6:29 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think the asymmetric rear rim is the greatest thing since sealed
 bearings.  It lets you build a stronger rear wheel with narrower axle and
 more gears.


 On Tuesday, February 4, 2014 1:41:25 PM UTC-6, Tim Gavin wrote:

 My next bike project is to build up some new 650b wheels for my Riv
 Road, using its original Phil hubs.  I'm soliciting advice for which spoke
 gauge/butting to use.

 Use:
 Road riding/light trail rambling
 Touring (220lb rider, ~25lb bike, ~20-40lb load)

 Parts:
 Phil Wood 36h Road hub (front) / Phil Wood 36h Road FW hub (rear)
 Velocity Synergy 650B rims
 3x Cross laced DT Swiss spokes --- gauge???

 Which gauge of spoke is good for this situation?  I want light weight
 but with enough strength for the heavy load.  What gauge/butting would be
 too light?  Is straight gauge overkill?  Will using 36h allow me to use a
 slightly lighter gauge?

 Rim:  Can I use a symmetrical rim in the rear, or do I have to use one
 with asymmetrical drilling?  The Phil Wood FW hub's flanges are only 5mm
 left of center, better than most cassette hubs.  I already have two
 symmetrical Synergy rims, so I'd like to use them for front and rear if I
 can.

 Thanks!

 Tim Gavin
 Cedar Rapids, IA

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Re: [RBW] FS - 64cm Atlantis

2014-02-04 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Any interested future Atlanti in the 91+ pbh out there!?!

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[RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

2014-02-04 Thread Reid
I'm thinking of getting a Riv AHH (would be my second Riv). My long time 
ride has simple down tube friction shifters with a 6-cog freewheel. Down 
tube friction shifters just appeal to me, so I'm trying to figure out if 
that is a reasonable thing to do with more cogs.
 
Some people have posted that friction shifting with 9 cogs in the back is 
too fiddly to be practical. I can understand that in general, but would 
like some feedback from people who have a lot of experience with friction 
shifting and have tried it with 9 cogs. Does anyone think that works if one 
has enough experience with friction shifting?
 
The other option is the IRD/Riv 8 cog, which seems to have a decent spread 
of cog sizes. Would the 8 cog be noticeably easier/better than 9 cogs with 
friction shifting?
 
Any feedback is much appreciated.
 
Reid

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

2014-02-04 Thread James Warren

No problem friction shifting 9 speeds with Silver shifters set up as either 
thumbies or as bar-ends. But the easy hand-access makes very fine tuning not 
something that bothers me. I haven't tried downtube shifters like that, and 
given the more frequent fine tuning, the shifter location could make a big 
difference. I say try it, and if it doesn't work out, get some bar end pods 
later and move the shifters. However, that suggestion doesn't work if you 
dislike bar ends.


On Feb 4, 2014, at 9:33 PM, Reid wrote:

 I'm thinking of getting a Riv AHH (would be my second Riv). My long time ride 
 has simple down tube friction shifters with a 6-cog freewheel. Down tube 
 friction shifters just appeal to me, so I'm trying to figure out if that is a 
 reasonable thing to do with more cogs.
  
 Some people have posted that friction shifting with 9 cogs in the back is too 
 fiddly to be practical. I can understand that in general, but would like some 
 feedback from people who have a lot of experience with friction shifting and 
 have tried it with 9 cogs. Does anyone think that works if one has enough 
 experience with friction shifting?
  
 The other option is the IRD/Riv 8 cog, which seems to have a decent spread of 
 cog sizes. Would the 8 cog be noticeably easier/better than 9 cogs with 
 friction shifting?
  
 Any feedback is much appreciated.
  
 Reid
 
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[RBW] Re: FS- lots of bike items: Nitto, Tubus, MKS, Dura-Ace

2014-02-04 Thread Bruce Smitham


On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 7:37:39 PM UTC-8, Bruce Smitham wrote:

 *Bike items for sale-*

 Prefer local pick up in San Diego but will consider shipping. Make me an 
 offer if you like. Email: bsmit...@jlohr.com or call/text 310-968-6910 to 
 discuss

 nitto Campee rear rack- in perfect condition $139

 Zefal frame pump HPX classic No. 3 fits tube gaps 46cm-52cm new- $30

 WTB Pure V saddle- new $30

 Dia Compe road brake levers, long pull for linear brakes in good condition 
 $20

 Slime Smart Tube 26 X 1.75-2.125 presta- new in box $5

 Chamois Butter almost new $5

 Cloud 9 saddle in very good condition $10

 Campagnolo Athena 11 speed chain in excellent condition- less than 20 
 miles. Shortened for compact crank 50 X 25 tooth cassette $20




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[RBW] Re: Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

2014-02-04 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
I've run both 8 and 9 speed cassettes on my Hilsen with Silver barends.  
Have not run as downtube shifters, but would tend to think that shorter 
cables always make for more positive shifts.  

I did swap the pulleys between top and bottom.  On most derailleurs, the 
top/guide pulley is designed to float - specifically to assist shifting and 
run with slop if the indexing is slightly off.  I found that it worked 
better for me when I switched them. 

Hope that helps!

- Jim 

Jim Edgar / cyclofiend.com 

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