[RBW] Re: FS: Olive green Sackville BarSack + Nitto BarSack Rack

2014-04-22 Thread Bruce Smitham
Hi Tom,

I'm interested in the bag.and rack combo. Can you send me a photo and I'll 
probably take it. Let me know if you can do a little better and I'll paypal 
you ASAP. You can email me at: bsmit...@jlohr.com thanks, Bruce

On Monday, April 21, 2014 11:07:30 AM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Hi list,

 I've had this handlebar rack http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r8.htmand 
 bag http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/basbs.htm combo for a couple of 
 years and only used it once or twice, so it's time to find it a new home. I 
 would say the condition is 'like new' except for a small scuff mark on the 
 front of the bag. I also replaced the M8 bolts with wingnuts for easier on 
 and off. Happy to send photos to interested parties.

 I looked up the invoice, and I paid $245 for the pair. I'm in Germany but 
 I'm happy to ship it pretty much anywhere. Shipping from DE to the US 
 with DHL (small packet, no insurance, probably one week to ten days in 
 transit) is about €15, so how about PayPal US$150 shipped? If that seems 
 unreasonable go ahead and make an offer.

 Please reply offline if interested.

 Tom
 Germany.


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Re: [RBW] Stan's report: Longevity

2014-04-22 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I understand the nature of the term field-expedient, but in this case, the 
field-expedient approach would be to use a tube! 

I had Stan's sealant in the split-tube tubeless tires of my Moonlander for over 
a year, including the past winter when our count of below-zero (F) days 
numbered at least 50. I never had a sealant loss, and I never observed that I 
was losing air. 

I also experimented with adapting skinnier tires not rated for tubeless use. In 
this case I tried some economical Conti Speed Ride 700x42 on Stan's rims with 
Stan's valves and tape. The tires were porous and sealant squirted through the 
sidewalls like so many pinholes. Once they finally sealed, I had 
disastrous/explosive results when I attempted to ride them at more than 40psi. 
I switched to tubeless-compatible Racing Ralph's, and have been VERY happy with 
the ride quality. I've got a couple hundred commuting and adventure miles on 
that set-up with no problems.

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[RBW] Re: GAP Trail from Confluence to Rockwood, PA

2014-04-22 Thread ascpgh
WETH:

The urban part from Eliza Furnace Trail via the Hot Metal Bridge has only 
been open a year or so and is along the Monongahela and then the 
Youghiogheny Rivers and I've yet to ride it through although along the 
river I'll venture a guess that it's less than railroad grade at its 
steepest. I'm guessing the now open connector to Pittsburgh is a pretty 
even grade.  Brief exceptions being approaches onto or off of causeways on 
the south end of Connellsville. The 18 miles from Connellsville to Ohiopyle 
have some short ups and downs as the trail moves between elevations the old 
rail grade surely took more gently but land changes since then. The two 
bridges right before Ohiopyle sneak up on you as the trail keeps on grade 
pretty well and are a nice picturesque reward.

What I find more important than the functional grade of any section of the 
trail is the surface. The GAP has by far a better trail bed than the C  O, 
this crushed limestone drains rain so well that it doesn't result in a 
spectrum of resistance to forward motion and is much nicer to non-fendered 
bikes and riders during any downpour and very soon after any rain stops. 
The impact of wet weather, even as distant as a week previous, can really 
impact forward progress on the west end of the CO. I've left Pittsburgh 
for Ohiopyle on the way to D.C.in a pouring rain without a likely end on 
the radar and were not as dramatically impacted in transit time as we 
feared. We were prepared for wet and the Yough Plaza Motel (as well as 
other place we stopped) has hose and nozzle for drivetrain hygiene.

I cannot overemphasize stopping on a rigid schedule to snack, drink and 
take pictures. I encouraged my nephew, then 13, to bring his CamelBak so 
there was no shortage of water while on the bike. Our day to Ohiopyle was 
72 miles and he, because of our pace of breaks and riding, overcame any 
apprehension and finished in good condition with no malady, ache or saddle 
sores. He lead the way around the little town to explore all the food 
options before picking one.  I have to give a plug to Triangle Bike Rental 
in Pittsburgh who put together a a bike starting with a Raleigh Clubman 
frame, including bags, to fit him for the trip. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Monday, April 21, 2014 9:38:00 PM UTC-4, WETH wrote:

 Dear Patrick, last summer they did 30 plus miles on paved trails and 
 roads.  They are a year older, stronger, and more opinionated now!  We are 
 toying with 5 days for the trip with the following mileage days: 37 miles, 
 25 mileS, 27 miles, 20 miles, 44 miles (mostly downhill into Cumberland). 
  We are giving them choices where possible.  Adventure Cycling runs a 
 family biking tour on the trail, and I am loosely following their distances.
 Dear Andy, that sounds like it was a memorable trip.  Do you remember what 
 the grade of the trail is like from Pittsburg to Ohiopyle?  Am I right that 
 it is more flat to rolling? I know the grade is pretty consistently upward 
 from Ohiopyle through Meyersdale, hence the lower mileage on days 3 and 4. 
 Thanks.


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[RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Matthew J
 Mark, I fully agree that carbon forks and frames are stronger than many 
on this list understand. 

I wonder when, if ever, there will be a generally available CF fork 
accepted for porteur style racks and loads or lowrider touring racks and 
loads.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Peter Morgano
Maybe it will have to be some new material, graphene is getting a lot of
buzz as a future product though it's industrial applications are still in
their infancy. Let's hope we are all still riding long enough to see the
next new thing, and then some of us can harrumph it as we love to do haha.
On Apr 22, 2014 9:07 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:

  Mark, I fully agree that carbon forks and frames are stronger than many
 on this list understand.

 I wonder when, if ever, there will be a generally available CF fork
 accepted for porteur style racks and loads or lowrider touring racks and
 loads.

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[RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread RJM
I've done both carbon and steel. I prefer the steel frame even with a 
little extra weight since it is smoother than the madone I used to own. The 
Domane might be the better carbon bike for me though since it is supposed 
to be smoother than the Madone (speaking in the Trek lineup, of course) 
 
Honestly though, I'm not seeing the advantage of a carbon fork even though 
they sell them as having vibration dampening qualitiesespecially when 
my Riv rides so smooth. I don't see carbon riding that smooth, at least 
that has been my experience.
 
To each his own though. 
 
On Monday, April 21, 2014 7:16:35 PM UTC-5, eflayer wrote:

  No matter how you fat you are, if you have never had the experience of 
 comparing doing a climb on a 17 lb carbon bike and 22 + lb full steel 
 (Rivendell), I suggest you give it a try and then get back to the group 
 about your opinion of which you prefer. No doubt steel will hold up better 
 through the millenia and won't crack in crash, but bikes don't crash that 
 often and why not enjoy the ride in as many ways as you can? 
  
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Peter Morgano
i have a Peugeot UO8 that I converted over to a carbon fork about 10  years
ago for my fixie. Thing is every big pothole, every sidewalk dismount and
not knowing when it would add up to failure was a pain. They one day a
friend borrowed it and just innocently laid it down on its side near some
graven and it chipped the fork. The bike now sits unridden as I don't know
about the integrity of the fork, wouldn't be the same case if I had a steel
fork. I would sell it but it was my first bike I bought when I moved to NYC
so its status is on hold as I have many irons in the fire.


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 10:23 AM, RJM crccpadu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've done both carbon and steel. I prefer the steel frame even with a
 little extra weight since it is smoother than the madone I used to own. The
 Domane might be the better carbon bike for me though since it is supposed
 to be smoother than the Madone (speaking in the Trek lineup, of course)

 Honestly though, I'm not seeing the advantage of a carbon fork even though
 they sell them as having vibration dampening qualitiesespecially when
 my Riv rides so smooth. I don't see carbon riding that smooth, at least
 that has been my experience.

 To each his own though.

 On Monday, April 21, 2014 7:16:35 PM UTC-5, eflayer wrote:

  No matter how you fat you are, if you have never had the experience of
 comparing doing a climb on a 17 lb carbon bike and 22 + lb full steel
 (Rivendell), I suggest you give it a try and then get back to the group
 about your opinion of which you prefer. No doubt steel will hold up better
 through the millenia and won't crack in crash, but bikes don't crash that
 often and why not enjoy the ride in as many ways as you can?



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[RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Matthew J
 I prefer the steel frame even with a little extra weight since it is 
smoother than the madone I used to own.

Interesting you should compare your steel frame with the Trek Madone.
  
I am just about the same height and weight as my nephew.  He owns a Trek 
Madone which he races in the local club programs.  My road bike is a custom 
Spectrum 30th Anniversary built with nos Columbus tubing and Cinelli lugs 
and bottom bracket.  

He bought his Madone stock with a SRAM group, zipp carbon wheels and some 
sort of 700x23 tires.  The Madone may be able to accommodate 25s, but it 
would be awful tight.  My Spectrum has a mix of Stronglight and Campy 
parts, some custom modified by Peter Weigle.  Wheels are JPW modified campy 
hubs and Mavic M2 rims sourced through Jan Heine's private stash - Jan sold 
them as part of a fund raiser.  Tires are Grand Bois Extra Leger 700x30.

We both regularly ride from the city to my father's (his grandfather's) 
house - about 60 miles one way using a mix of trails and bike friendly 
streets.

One weekend on the ride up to my Dad's we traded bikes.  The Trek is 
lighter with a higher gear ratio than my Spectrum and took somewhat less 
effort to move.  But I experienced a lot more road feel than riding my 
Spectrum.  As a result, by the end of the ride I was more fatigued and sore 
than at the end of the same ride on my Spectrum.  

My nephew wears padded shorts and riding gloves.  I tried padded shorts 
once years ago, did not like and have never worn them since.  His handle 
bars have thick padded tape.  I use Japanese cotton tape.  

The different wheels and tires probably had more to do with the discomfort 
I experienced on the Madone than any other factor.  And of course one could 
get a Calfee or possibly and Argonaut or other customs CF frame and fork 
that fit more comfortable wheels and tires.  But then price becomes a 
factor.  Madone list is almost $5k.  Most full custom CF frames go for a 
lot more.  

I paid $3.3k for the full custom Spectrum.  The JPW custom and rare NOS 
parts I have on the Spectrum would be pretty expensive assuming JPW even 
agreed to make more.  But these could be more than adequately replaced with 
a Shimano touring group.

Maybe this will change in time, but for the money you can get more comfort 
with pretty good speed going steel over CF.

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[RBW] Finished build - Thank you to everyone who contributed parts.

2014-04-22 Thread Michael Ullmer
I just completed the build of a bike I've been putting together with a lot 
of parts from iBOBs and RBWs. Thank you for your contributions, you know 
who you are.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157644200605064/

It handles SO well! I loaded up the front slickersack yesterday with a lot 
of weight and it was smooth and not twitchy at all. Today I loaded up the 
Saddlesack with about 15 pounds and it didn't even feel like there was 
hardly any weight in the back. I've tried to do both of these things on a 
cross-check and the bike handled horribly. The 2.0 Kojaks were also a 
recommendation from many RBWs and I couldn't be happier with them. Again, 
thanks everyone!

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[RBW] WTB: Saddle Support (nitto NR-20)

2014-04-22 Thread Coconutbill
Hi bunch,

Before plunking down the money for a new rack, I thought I'd inquire here 
about an old , retired, bag support that is no longer in use.
Homer has become my quicker more nimble commuter and instead of a large 
rear rack, I just want to use a minimal saddle bag support.
I'm not as crazy about the Carradice bag support, but I may also be 
interested in that as well.

best,
evan


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Re: [RBW] WTB: Saddle Support (nitto NR-20)

2014-04-22 Thread Chris Chen
You want a R-14?


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 9:26 AM, Coconutbill evan.spa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi bunch,

 Before plunking down the money for a new rack, I thought I'd inquire here
 about an old , retired, bag support that is no longer in use.
 Homer has become my quicker more nimble commuter and instead of a large
 rear rack, I just want to use a minimal saddle bag support.
 I'm not as crazy about the Carradice bag support, but I may also be
 interested in that as well.

 best,
 evan


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Re: [RBW] Re: Knard width -- questions for users

2014-04-22 Thread Patrick Moore
Good points; thanks Anne and Eric. Well, I'm better off not worrying about
yet another tire purchase -- I'll enjoy what I have (should do more of
that).


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:47 PM, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.comwrote:

 I'm pretty sure that a Knard doesn't fit on the rear of the Fargo. It's
 not just the frame width that's an issue. The Knard is so wide it can
 interfere with the chain on a bike not designed for it.


 On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 5:42 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm guessing it would not fit on the rear of a Fargo. My Niner had pretty
 exceptional tire clearance, and it didn't workably fit there.


 On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 12:15 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.comwrote:

 Thanks for all the replies. So it looks as if a 3.0 won't fit on the
 stock FV1 fork, but I have been thinking of getting a new, lower trail fork
 

 Eric: any idea if the tire will fit in the rear of the FV1?

 The 650B idea is intriguing, but my experience is that additional
 circumference makes for better rolling; the Fargo already has a lowish bb.

 Anyway, no change immediately: the FFs, though harder and skinnier than
 my preference, are excellent, fast rolling tires and for most of my riding
 they are just fine. But if I go ahead with the new fork (will ask for
 biplane crown!) I'll be sure to spec a 77 mm width.


 On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 4:05 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.comwrote:

 I still have 3 Furious Freds to wear out, but I do miss the up-to-65 mm
 width of Big Apples and the as-low-as 12/16 psi pressures (the BAs had
 sturdier sidewalls and contained tubes). Reviews of the Knard make it very
 intriguing, and per my admittedly cursory measurements the Fargo has enough
 room between fork legs and stays to accommodate the tire.

 Gypsy By Trade measures a used 3.0 Knard on a 50 mm rim at 77.1 mm
 which is 3. Is this what you measure? How wide is your rim?

 Do you run it tubeless or with tubes?

 How low front and rear are you comfortable with and
 = what is the total of your weight + weight of baggage carried?
 = what terrain do you ride?

 The 44 mm wide SnoCat SLs should work very well with the Knard and give
 it a nice, wide and flat profile (the FFs measure a true 55 mm on these
 rims; they are labeled 50 mm).

 --
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 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Knard width -- questions for users

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
That's CRAZY monk talk! Grin. Contentment is a wondrous thing. Now, if only 
I could be content with being content. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 12:42:05 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Good points; thanks Anne and Eric. Well, I'm better off not worrying about 
 yet another tire purchase -- I'll enjoy what I have (should do more of 
 that).


 On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 6:47 PM, Anne Paulson 
 anne.p...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I'm pretty sure that a Knard doesn't fit on the rear of the Fargo. It's 
 not just the frame width that's an issue. The Knard is so wide it can 
 interfere with the chain on a bike not designed for it. 


 On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 5:42 PM, Eric Daume eric...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I'm guessing it would not fit on the rear of a Fargo. My Niner had 
 pretty exceptional tire clearance, and it didn't workably fit there.


 On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 12:15 PM, Patrick Moore 
 bert...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Thanks for all the replies. So it looks as if a 3.0 won't fit on the 
 stock FV1 fork, but I have been thinking of getting a new, lower trail 
 fork 
 

 Eric: any idea if the tire will fit in the rear of the FV1?

 The 650B idea is intriguing, but my experience is that additional 
 circumference makes for better rolling; the Fargo already has a lowish bb.

 Anyway, no change immediately: the FFs, though harder and skinnier than 
 my preference, are excellent, fast rolling tires and for most of my riding 
 they are just fine. But if I go ahead with the new fork (will ask for 
 biplane crown!) I'll be sure to spec a 77 mm width.


 On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 4:05 PM, Patrick Moore 
 bert...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I still have 3 Furious Freds to wear out, but I do miss the up-to-65 
 mm width of Big Apples and the as-low-as 12/16 psi pressures (the BAs had 
 sturdier sidewalls and contained tubes). Reviews of the Knard make it 
 very 
 intriguing, and per my admittedly cursory measurements the Fargo has 
 enough 
 room between fork legs and stays to accommodate the tire. 

 Gypsy By Trade measures a used 3.0 Knard on a 50 mm rim at 77.1 mm 
 which is 3. Is this what you measure? How wide is your rim?

 Do you run it tubeless or with tubes?

 How low front and rear are you comfortable with and
 = what is the total of your weight + weight of baggage carried?
 = what terrain do you ride?

 The 44 mm wide SnoCat SLs should work very well with the Knard and 
 give it a nice, wide and flat profile (the FFs measure a true 55 mm on 
 these rims; they are labeled 50 mm).

 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

  


 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

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Re: [RBW] Finished build - Thank you to everyone who contributed parts.

2014-04-22 Thread Patrick Moore
Congratulations on the new bike. I'll be curious to learn how much weight
the bike can handle f + r without feeling awkward, and about longer term
experience with the Kojaks.


On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 3:59 PM, Michael Ullmer mjull...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just completed the build of a bike I've been putting together with a lot
 of parts from iBOBs and RBWs. Thank you for your contributions, you know
 who you are.

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157644200605064/

 It handles SO well! I loaded up the front slickersack yesterday with a lot
 of weight and it was smooth and not twitchy at all. Today I loaded up the
 Saddlesack with about 15 pounds and it didn't even feel like there was
 hardly any weight in the back. I've tried to do both of these things on a
 cross-check and the bike handled horribly. The 2.0 Kojaks were also a
 recommendation from many RBWs and I couldn't be happier with them. Again,
 thanks everyone!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Patrick Moore
If you were to build the same, sport-touring frame and fork (we can take
the Roadeo as a well known to all example of the design I mean) with
similar clearances, similar braze-ons, and with similar long-term
durability, out of top quality steel and out of carbon fiber, how much
weight would you save with the carbon fiber?

I'm not concerned in this discussion with the catastrophic fail rate of CF
versus steel; I'm interested in a CF frameset that under the same normal
use as the Roadeo would last as long as the Roadeo.

Nor am I concerned about building into the steel frameset any extra measure
of safety; just your typical top quality steel sport-tourer type of frame.

That is to say: no stupid light gauge or design on either frameset, nor any
scrupulous over building. I know that you can buy a CF racing frame that
weighs less than 2 lb in a small size, but I want to compare a carbon fiber
frame and fork that are as durable and have as much clearance as their
steel counterparts.

Use whatever strength-to-weight tweaking tricks you can; just have the CF
frameset be as long-term-reliable as the steel one made from top quality
tubing. Again, how much weight difference?

So much of our discussions about CF versus steel seem to be comparing
apples to kumkwats.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Patrick Moore
For that matter, does anyone recall the frame + fork weight (bare frame and
fork) of that Calfee randoneur reveiwed in BQ?


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were to build the same, sport-touring frame and fork (we can take
 the Roadeo as a well known to all example of the design I mean) with
 similar clearances, similar braze-ons, and with similar long-term
 durability, out of top quality steel and out of carbon fiber, how much
 weight would you save with the carbon fiber?

 I'm not concerned in this discussion with the catastrophic fail rate of CF
 versus steel; I'm interested in a CF frameset that under the same normal
 use as the Roadeo would last as long as the Roadeo.

 Nor am I concerned about building into the steel frameset any extra
 measure of safety; just your typical top quality steel sport-tourer type of
 frame.

 That is to say: no stupid light gauge or design on either frameset, nor
 any scrupulous over building. I know that you can buy a CF racing frame
 that weighs less than 2 lb in a small size, but I want to compare a carbon
 fiber frame and fork that are as durable and have as much clearance as
 their steel counterparts.

 Use whatever strength-to-weight tweaking tricks you can; just have the CF
 frameset be as long-term-reliable as the steel one made from top quality
 tubing. Again, how much weight difference?

 So much of our discussions about CF versus steel seem to be comparing
 apples to kumkwats.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Bill Lindsay
They didn't publish the frame weight in BQ.  Calfees site has a page for 
the adventure series, and says the complete bike pictured weighs 16.5lb 
without fenders, and would retail for ~$6300 complete (SRAM Force).  It is 
pictured without pedals.  

I assume we could spec that Roadeo with the same parts, and we'd probably 
be 2 to 3 pounds heavier and about $1500-$2000 less expensive?  Somewhere 
in there.  

If both bikes had the same tires, I bet they'd both be awesome.  

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 12:12:08 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 For that matter, does anyone recall the frame + fork weight (bare frame 
 and fork) of that Calfee randoneur reveiwed in BQ?


 On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 If you were to build the same, sport-touring frame and fork (we can take 
 the Roadeo as a well known to all example of the design I mean) with 
 similar clearances, similar braze-ons, and with similar long-term 
 durability, out of top quality steel and out of carbon fiber, how much 
 weight would you save with the carbon fiber?

 I'm not concerned in this discussion with the catastrophic fail rate of 
 CF versus steel; I'm interested in a CF frameset that under the same normal 
 use as the Roadeo would last as long as the Roadeo.

 Nor am I concerned about building into the steel frameset any extra 
 measure of safety; just your typical top quality steel sport-tourer type of 
 frame.

 That is to say: no stupid light gauge or design on either frameset, nor 
 any scrupulous over building. I know that you can buy a CF racing frame 
 that weighs less than 2 lb in a small size, but I want to compare a carbon 
 fiber frame and fork that are as durable and have as much clearance as 
 their steel counterparts.

 Use whatever strength-to-weight tweaking tricks you can; just have the CF 
 frameset be as long-term-reliable as the steel one made from top quality 
 tubing. Again, how much weight difference?

 So much of our discussions about CF versus steel seem to be comparing 
 apples to kumkwats.
  



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[RBW] Re: Pedal Stroke Click

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
Well I had a grand laugh at myself on today's ride. I kept trying to 
pinpoint the source of the click. Shifting forward, back, left, right. 
Good thing I'm on remote dirt roads! Grin. The laugh came when I remembered 
that my brain doesn't process sound directionality with any accuracy at 
all. Sometimes lack of memory leads to dumber things than other times. I 
couldn't stop laughing at my foolishness for at least 30 minutes. Grin.

So the plan is to grease the pedals once grease arrives this week. I'll be 
swapping the bottom bracket anyway. I may never isolate what the sours is, 
but I sure hope I solve it. Thanks for all the input!

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Reviews/Experience Desired - Kucharik Six Panel Wool Shorts

2014-04-22 Thread Corwin
Hey David -

Thanks for the prompt reply. I surmise that you have no pad or chamios. 
Having lived in the Inland Empire (late '80s and again in the early '90s), 
and run in the Box Springs and up Mt Roubidoux - I'm having trouble 
conceiving of an activity there without sweat.

I'm guessing I sweat lots more than you. I will contemplate riding without 
the chamios.

Regards,


Corwin



On Monday, April 21, 2014 10:46:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Kucharik makes good stuff. Can't speak to this particular model, as I have 
 their Traditional shorts 
 http://www.kucharikclothing.com/wool-shorts-traditional-p-347.html 

 On those, sizing is true. They don't over heat me. I'd prefer chamios to 
 the synth pad in there, but really no problems with what I have.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Mon, Apr 21, 2014 at 10:26 PM, Corwin ern...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 Anybody ever bought and worn these shorts:

 http://www.kucharikclothing.com/wool-short-6-panel-p-446.html

 ?

 I've always ridden with Andiamo skins type underwear under thin cotton 
 shorts. So far, no problems - but I think I'm avoiding chafing and other 
 problems based mostly on luck. My saddle usually gets a fair amount of 
 sweat on long and/or hot rides.

 I'm contemplating an investment in the Kucharik six panel wool shorts and 
 wondering:

 1) Do they run true to size?

 2) I don't feel a need for a pad - but am curious if the chamios would 
 take up much of the sweat I put out. Or will the wool just heat me up more 
 and cause more sweat/moisture?

 Thanks in advance.


 Corwin

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[RBW] Re: Finished build - Thank you to everyone who contributed parts.

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
Great looking bike! May you ride it with abandon!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Ryan
Off  this topicI'll be lookin for this Atlantis. As far as I know 
you'll have the only Atlantis in Winnipeg because I know rivs are scarce in 
Winnipeg...I've see the Cervelo and the Surly bike
On Monday, April 21, 2014 9:19:01 AM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote: 

 I understand, yet don't fully agree with the safety concerns of a carbon 
 fork. If something jams in your wheel, you're likely going down regardless 
 and your fork is likely going to be toast regardless.  

 For the record, I have a Cervelo R3 (full carbon), Giant TCX 
 (Aluminum/Carbon), did have a Bridgestone road frame (steel, more to come 
 on that), Ti SSCX with carbon fork, and a surly steamroller. Oh, and I have 
 just bought a used Atlantis... :)

 The Cervelo R3 was made with a more upright, 'classics' geo a year or two 
 back when I got it. I've ridden it on a few 100 mile rides, going hard and 
 have been amazingly comfortable the entire time, and that's on 25mm tires! 
 Maybe it's the spaghetti-sized seat stays that soak up the vibrations, but 
 it is truly a dreamy ride quality.

 I used to have a wonderful Bridgestone steel road frame, with Suntour 
 Cyclone 2 drivetrain and Sugino Mighty Competition. I never found out the 
 model. I actually found the complete bike in a pile of garbage at a 
 construction site. It looked brand new, hah! Then something got caught in 
 my front wheel while riding at maybe 15-20km/h. I immediately flipped over 
 the bars and woke up in the hospital a few hours later. Thank god I had a 
 helmet on (which at that time was not normal for me). The steel fork was 
 totally destroyed. I doubt having a carbon fork would have made things 
 worse or better. I've had a lot of nasty head-on crashes with my CX bikes, 
 both with carbon forks, and no issues. They are a lot stronger than one 
 might think.

 In the end, I agree - I've felt great on aluminum, carbon, steel, and ti. 
 Rider position, tires, saddle, and wheels make way more of a difference 
 than frame material.

 On Saturday, April 19, 2014 12:31:22 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote: 


 I'm talking ride quality only, not function.
 Don't blow a gasket until you read this post in full. 

 Steel, carbon, Alu, Ti, Rando-lite frames, etc.

 I just saw a RAAM documentary. Actually I have watched three of them.
 Those guys are mostly carbon, skinny tires, with bars waaay low, yet they 
 do hundreds of miles a day, culminating in a 3,000 mile race finish in less 
 than 10 days. You gotta be comfy on your bike to a certain degree to 
 survive a 3,000 mile ride in 10 days or less. You can't really argue with 
 that. Yeah, they are athletes,and suffer, but read on...

 I'm starting to think that no frame material is better than another when 
 at the higher quality levels and craftsmanship. And I think RAAM blows it 
 all outta the water. RAAM has been ridden on just about everything I would 
 think. I don't think these people are dummies, and I am sure they have done 
 their homework to find what suits their needs. I think it's just preference 
 at that point. I don't know that Jure Robic (5-time RAAM winner) would have 
 done any better, or felt any better, on a Herse, Scott, Lightspeed, or 
 Roadeo. Someone once asked him how his behind felt during RAAM, and he 
 stuck his fingers in his mouth imitating a gun. I don't think that would 
 have changed no matter what he was riding (and it looked like a studded 
 leather saddle in the documentary I saw).

 Now function is another thing altogether.  You want braze-ons and wide 
 tires and clearance, approach a steel frame builder for sure.

 I needed to ride through mud and gravel to continue on my way today and I 
 was glad I was on my fender-ed Rivbike with 42 mm tires and not on a 25mm 
 tire-ed race bike.

 I'm not going to touch safety and lifetime issues of materials. The 
 battle rages.

 Anyway, since I got my head out of carbon, and have been reading a lot 
 about steel, I have been wondering. Because everyone seems to love their 
 quality bikes, no matter what the material is.

   

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[RBW] Re: Finished build - Thank you to everyone who contributed parts.

2014-04-22 Thread WETH
Michael, 
That is a great build.  I love and use both the slickersack and Saddlesack 
on a daily basis.  I hope you have many wonderful adventures on the bike.
Erl 

On Monday, April 21, 2014 5:59:48 PM UTC-4, Michael Ullmer wrote:

 I just completed the build of a bike I've been putting together with a lot 
 of parts from iBOBs and RBWs. Thank you for your contributions, you know 
 who you are.

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157644200605064/

 It handles SO well! I loaded up the front slickersack yesterday with a lot 
 of weight and it was smooth and not twitchy at all. Today I loaded up the 
 Saddlesack with about 15 pounds and it didn't even feel like there was 
 hardly any weight in the back. I've tried to do both of these things on a 
 cross-check and the bike handled horribly. The 2.0 Kojaks were also a 
 recommendation from many RBWs and I couldn't be happier with them. Again, 
 thanks everyone!


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[RBW] Re: Reviews/Experience Desired - Kucharik Six Panel Wool Shorts

2014-04-22 Thread LBleriot
I did not these because of poor fit issues.  They were tight in some 
places, but loose and baggy in others,  I much prefer Ibex with padded 
inserts.  Ibex has just the right amount of lycra-spandex for me.

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 1:26:58 AM UTC-4, Corwin wrote:

 Anybody ever bought and worn these shorts:

 http://www.kucharikclothing.com/wool-short-6-panel-p-446.html

 ?

 I've always ridden with Andiamo skins type underwear under thin cotton 
 shorts. So far, no problems - but I think I'm avoiding chafing and other 
 problems based mostly on luck. My saddle usually gets a fair amount of 
 sweat on long and/or hot rides.

 I'm contemplating an investment in the Kucharik six panel wool shorts and 
 wondering:

 1) Do they run true to size?

 2) I don't feel a need for a pad - but am curious if the chamios would 
 take up much of the sweat I put out. Or will the wool just heat me up more 
 and cause more sweat/moisture?

 Thanks in advance.


 Corwin


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Re: [RBW] WTB: Saddle Support (nitto NR-20)

2014-04-22 Thread Michael
I have a Silver Hupe if you think that would work.

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Saddle Support (nitto NR-20)

2014-04-22 Thread Eric Norris
Sorry, Michael, but

No, no, NO! Please don't use a Silver Hupe on any bike that care anything at 
all about. The Hupes have left a long trail of destroyed seatstay paint in 
their awful, evil wake. 

If you hate your bike, or have an enemy with a bike, by all means use one or 
give one (to your enemy).

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

 On Apr 22, 2014, at 2:31 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I have a Silver Hupe if you think that would work.
 
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[RBW] Re: WTB: Saddle Support (nitto NR-20)

2014-04-22 Thread Coconutbill


 I have taken Mr. Chen up on his offer.

thank you for the offer, and also, thank you for deterring me from the 
offer.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Finished build - Thank you to everyone who contributed parts.

2014-04-22 Thread Chris Chen
Smart lookin' bike.


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 1:53 PM, WETH erlhous...@gmail.com wrote:

 Michael,
 That is a great build.  I love and use both the slickersack and Saddlesack
 on a daily basis.  I hope you have many wonderful adventures on the bike.
 Erl

 On Monday, April 21, 2014 5:59:48 PM UTC-4, Michael Ullmer wrote:

 I just completed the build of a bike I've been putting together with a
 lot of parts from iBOBs and RBWs. Thank you for your contributions, you
 know who you are.

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157644200605064/

 It handles SO well! I loaded up the front slickersack yesterday with a
 lot of weight and it was smooth and not twitchy at all. Today I loaded up
 the Saddlesack with about 15 pounds and it didn't even feel like there was
 hardly any weight in the back. I've tried to do both of these things on a
 cross-check and the bike handled horribly. The 2.0 Kojaks were also a
 recommendation from many RBWs and I couldn't be happier with them. Again,
 thanks everyone!

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-- 
I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Zack
so i am all set up with the 7 speed cassette, but am having an issue I 
can't figure out.

I picked up the 13-34 7 speed cassette, a 4.5mm spacer, and a shimano hg91 
7/8 speed chain.  put the spacer on behind the cassette, tightened the 
cassette, adjusted rear derailer limit screws, and everything works peachy 
EXCEPT i am getting chatter in the smallest cog.  Every other cog is fine.  

thoughts on what this might be?  it's ruining new drivetrain day.  ahah.  

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
No idea, Zack, but I feel your pain. The best solution I know whilst 
waiting for the solution is to embrace the pain as PART of new drivetrain 
day. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick, who isn't really helpful.

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 6:10:47 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:

 so i am all set up with the 7 speed cassette, but am having an issue I 
 can't figure out.

 I picked up the 13-34 7 speed cassette, a 4.5mm spacer, and a shimano hg91 
 7/8 speed chain.  put the spacer on behind the cassette, tightened the 
 cassette, adjusted rear derailer limit screws, and everything works peachy 
 EXCEPT i am getting chatter in the smallest cog.  Every other cog is fine.  

 thoughts on what this might be?  it's ruining new drivetrain day.  ahah.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

2014-04-22 Thread Matthew J
Bill - Sounds about right.  

CF likely will be lighter than a similarly kitted steel.  Although per my 
message above, if you wanted to do full out loaded touring on a CF bike, I 
wonder how thick the tubes (and thus heavy they would have to be).  

Custom CF bikes as well as the higher end off the shelf CF are more 
expensive than decent steel competition.  I do not know whether this 
reflects market or manufacturing demands.

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 2:21:49 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 They didn't publish the frame weight in BQ.  Calfees site has a page for 
 the adventure series, and says the complete bike pictured weighs 16.5lb 
 without fenders, and would retail for ~$6300 complete (SRAM Force).  It is 
 pictured without pedals.  

 I assume we could spec that Roadeo with the same parts, and we'd probably 
 be 2 to 3 pounds heavier and about $1500-$2000 less expensive?  Somewhere 
 in there.  

 If both bikes had the same tires, I bet they'd both be awesome.  

 On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 12:12:08 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 For that matter, does anyone recall the frame + fork weight (bare frame 
 and fork) of that Calfee randoneur reveiwed in BQ?


 On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were to build the same, sport-touring frame and fork (we can take 
 the Roadeo as a well known to all example of the design I mean) with 
 similar clearances, similar braze-ons, and with similar long-term 
 durability, out of top quality steel and out of carbon fiber, how much 
 weight would you save with the carbon fiber?

 I'm not concerned in this discussion with the catastrophic fail rate of 
 CF versus steel; I'm interested in a CF frameset that under the same normal 
 use as the Roadeo would last as long as the Roadeo.

 Nor am I concerned about building into the steel frameset any extra 
 measure of safety; just your typical top quality steel sport-tourer type of 
 frame.

 That is to say: no stupid light gauge or design on either frameset, nor 
 any scrupulous over building. I know that you can buy a CF racing frame 
 that weighs less than 2 lb in a small size, but I want to compare a carbon 
 fiber frame and fork that are as durable and have as much clearance as 
 their steel counterparts.

 Use whatever strength-to-weight tweaking tricks you can; just have the 
 CF frameset be as long-term-reliable as the steel one made from top quality 
 tubing. Again, how much weight difference?

 So much of our discussions about CF versus steel seem to be comparing 
 apples to kumkwats.
  



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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Zack
and there's deacon patrick with the best advice i have ever received on the 
site :-)  without bugaboos how would we know how awesome it is when 
everything works!

(any help with the cassette/drivetrain bugaboo also welcome)

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
If you get any good at implementing that advice, let me know your secret, 
Zack! Chagrined grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 6:40:54 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:

 and there's deacon patrick with the best advice i have ever received on 
 the site :-)  without bugaboos how would we know how awesome it is when 
 everything works!

 (any help with the cassette/drivetrain bugaboo also welcome)


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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Chris Chen
What kind of chatter?


On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 5:10 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:

 so i am all set up with the 7 speed cassette, but am having an issue I
 can't figure out.

 I picked up the 13-34 7 speed cassette, a 4.5mm spacer, and a shimano hg91
 7/8 speed chain.  put the spacer on behind the cassette, tightened the
 cassette, adjusted rear derailer limit screws, and everything works peachy
 EXCEPT i am getting chatter in the smallest cog.  Every other cog is fine.

 thoughts on what this might be?  it's ruining new drivetrain day.  ahah.

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Stroke Click

2014-04-22 Thread Dennis Hogan
Hey Patrick - I met to respond regarding your click but got distracted (not a 
surprise). I had a similar experience while riding the STP (Seattle to 
Portland) last year and the guy I happened to be riding alongside, he was on a 
Riv, said that it often is a seat issue. Sure enough when I got home the next 
morning, I tightened the seat clamp and the noise went away.
This has happened once since then and the same cure worked.
Regards
Dennis in PDX

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Zack
chatter: it sounds like the chain is rubbing against something, but i can't 
see where it's happening.

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[RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Pondero
Too tight against a fender or rack screw?

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Stroke Click

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
That I can try straight off! They were all fairly tight, post and both seat 
clamp bolts. Now they're tighter. We'll see how it goes next ride! Thanks, 
Dennis.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 7:08:45 PM UTC-6, Dennis Hogan wrote:

 Hey Patrick - I met to respond regarding your click but got distracted 
 (not a surprise). I had a similar experience while riding the STP (Seattle 
 to Portland) last year and the guy I happened to be riding alongside, he 
 was on a Riv, said that it often is a seat issue. Sure enough when I got 
 home the next morning, I tightened the seat clamp and the noise went away.
 This has happened once since then and the same cure worked.
 Regards
 Dennis in PDX

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[RBW] Re: Chain lube/wax

2014-04-22 Thread Deacon Patrick
I have a bottle of chain saw bar and chain oil on the way. I presume I 
reuse an empty 2 or 4 oz bottle for application? Or what do you chainsaw 
guys do? Swig it and spit out a drop per ling from between your bearded 
teeth? Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-22 Thread Cox Mail
If that cassette is held together with screws or rivets they will need to be 
removed.  The heads of the screws or rivets take up a little room bearing on 
the spacer and cause the outermost cog to be too far outboard.  You are 
probably hearing the chain rubbing on the dropout.  It's happened to me.

Tom Nezovich. In Cleveland

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:10 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 so i am all set up with the 7 speed cassette, but am having an issue I can't 
 figure out.
 
 I picked up the 13-34 7 speed cassette, a 4.5mm spacer, and a shimano hg91 
 7/8 speed chain.  put the spacer on behind the cassette, tightened the 
 cassette, adjusted rear derailer limit screws, and everything works peachy 
 EXCEPT i am getting chatter in the smallest cog.  Every other cog is fine.  
 
 thoughts on what this might be?  it's ruining new drivetrain day.  ahah.  
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Re: [RBW] Re: Finished build - Thank you to everyone who contributed parts.

2014-04-22 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Great looking and well equipped bike you've got!  Very 'not dumb!' :)

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[RBW] Re: GAP Trail from Confluence to Rockwood, PA

2014-04-22 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Erl what a great 'pre-getaway' trip!  You covered some of the ground in hoping 
to do with my dad in may. Thanks for the report and the pictures.  And I 
totally applaud your pace!  I just had a conversation with a tri inclined 
friend tonight about average crushing speeds and it was clear he and I had 
different goals in our cycling.. 18 vice 12 mph in average! :)

Hope to catch you on the trail some time soon!
Tony

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