[RBW] Re: Dapper custom on Blug

[Evan]

Beautiful bikes both--and terrific photographs from Jared.

Evan E.
SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Tony DeFilippo]

Hard luck for sure on your brevet.

So oddly enough I had a lose non-drive side crank arm this week commuting as 
well.  I was really pushing hard on my single speed XO-3 and noticed a huge 
oscillation in my left foot.  I limped the final 3 miles hand tightening the 
hex bolt headed crank bolt (no easy hex wrench socket) and stopped at my LBS 
before my return commute.

The mechanic grudgingly gave me a socket wrench to tighten the bolt myself but 
told me that a crank bolt is a'compression fitting', and that once it shows 
signs of loosening it will never stay tight and is fixed only with replacement 
of the crank arm... I said thanks and was on my way.  It's staid tight fit me 
the remainder of the week but I'm now curious about this 'compression fitting' 
tightness issue and it seems in line with this thread... Can anyone confirm?

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Scot Brooks]

The one I'd really like to try is the Rodriguez Outlaw. They're built here 
in Seattle and I think they're just about the lightest steel road bike out 
there. They're light enough that I'd almost be afraid it would end up as a 
single-use-only product at my 190 lbs. 

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 12:47:15 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>
> I would love to ride a Rambouillet, a Roadeo, a Herse, or a Singer,  to 
>> compare.
>>
>  
> I am curious what a "light weight tubing" steel road bike feels like. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Ron Mc]

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts 
 

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 5:33:04 PM UTC-5, IanA wrote:
>
> This link to Jan Heine's blog is informative.  I would try this method 
> before giving up on the crank.  
> http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/04/16/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/
>
> As an aside, I had a Sugino GP come loose on me a couple of times.  I 
> torqued it down properly and it's been perfect ever since, but I have heard 
> of people damaging the taper by running the crank loose - I don't know how 
> likely that is.  Red Locktite should only be used to forever seize metal 
> threads.  I can't think of a single application where red Locktite should 
> be used on a bicycle.  The blue stuff is great for things like fender and 
> rack bolts - bolts that tend to vibrate loose.  The blue Locktite is a good 
> anti-seize/lubricate during installation product. Blue Locktite could be 
> okay to use on the crank bolt threads, but the taper wouldn't need it, just 
> light grease apparently.
>
> Ian A.  
>
> On Sunday, May 25, 2014 1:44:05 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> Well I was riding a 1000k brevet and about 75 miles into the 2nd day's 
>> ride, I noticed that my left side crank had come loose.  I tightened it 
>> down but it was loose again in a mile.  So I really torqued it down and 
>> that lasted about five miles.  So this pattern persisted, but it kept 
>> getting worse until I could only ride a few hundred yards before the 
>> crankarm was loose again.
>>
>> I finally abandoned my 1000k at the next town, Buffalo, TX, where I am 
>> currently stranded.  But I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong.
>>
>> What is the required torque for spare taper spindle cranks?  My friends 
>> kept saying it just wasn't possible to get enough torque on the bolt using 
>> a multi-tool, but I am pretty strong and I put as much tightening force 
>> into it as I could.
>>
>> Would Locktite Red have helped?  Tried to find some but no auto parts 
>> stores in this town are open Sunday.
>>
>> The threads don't seem to be stripped, but is it possible the spindle is 
>> cracked?
>>
>> Is my taper trashed now?
>>
>> Parts:  Sugino XD600, BB-UN-55.
>>
>> Mileage completed:  321.
>>
>> Pic:  there it sits.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[cyclotourist]

I would say yes, geography is built into bike design. There's a reason
Surly/Salsa specializes in fat bikes!

Cheers,
David

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal





On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Addison Wilhite
wrote:

> Regarding tire size, what probably does not come through in my post is the
> rockiness and steepness of the jeep roads and trails we were on.  Obviously
> it is doable on the somewhat slim rubber, but not preferable.  One of these
> days I'll actually stop and take a photo of the surface in those parts but
> I'm usually too busy pedaling or holding on for dear life.
>
> This does bring up a point I've often thought about before in that Riv
> always seems to post photos of the camping excursions from their general
> geographic location and it is clear how ideally suited their bikes are to
> those dirt roads and trails (I've ridden a few).  I've wondered about other
> smaller bike companies and the tendency to match their designs to the local
> road/trail surfaces and wondered if one could somehow make a matching game
> of types of riding to company design philosophies?
>
> This is not a fully formed theory but I recall talking to DeSalvo at the
> NAHBS a few years ago and him talking about how this particular bike was
> ideally suited to the roads/gravel he rides in that area (pictured here).
>
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/03/reflections-on-north-american-handmade.html
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A.
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and 
> Technology
>
>
> *"Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success"*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler 
>
> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
> Advisory Committee
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 1:43 PM, WETH  wrote:
>
>> Beautiful photos of great scenery.  It certainly sounded like a great
>> trip.  Thanks for sharing.
>>
>> --
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>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Hugh Smitham]

And yeah I love the Atlantis/ AR.

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 3:51 PM, Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> Addison,
>
> I imagine we are talking optimal here. I have ridden my Hilsen with 41~42
> mm Fatty Rumpkin's over some pretty harsh jeep roads ( with 25 lb loads)
> and though not ideal they served me well with no real undo loss of control.
> Would a modern MTB with 2.25 mm +  tires and ridiculous amounts of travel
> handle the type of terrain your describing better? Short answer is yes but
> when I bike camp I figure to dismount and use my LCG. I don't mind walking
> through a gnarly section. The wider tires may allow you to move quicker
> though rough terrain and one with suspension even quicker, however I no
> longer desire to rush past the beauty of my surroundings.
>
> On a more psychological note, I need to refrain from rationalizing a
> sliver of advantage and furthering my consumer first world issues. I
> rationalized after riding Homer with those above size tire's that I needed
> an Atlantis with larger tires...I could run 55 mm's IIRC but I opted for
> 1.95" (47mm) as a nice compromise, riding to the dirt via asphalt. I'm sur
> I could further rationalize the need for a Hung but at some point one needs
> to draw a line in the jeep trail.
>
> My .02 cents.
>
> ~Hugh
>
> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>
> http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Addison Wilhite  > wrote:
>
>> Regarding tire size, what probably does not come through in my post is
>> the rockiness and steepness of the jeep roads and trails we were on.
>>  Obviously it is doable on the somewhat slim rubber, but not preferable.
>>  One of these days I'll actually stop and take a photo of the surface in
>> those parts but I'm usually too busy pedaling or holding on for dear life.
>>
>> This does bring up a point I've often thought about before in that Riv
>> always seems to post photos of the camping excursions from their general
>> geographic location and it is clear how ideally suited their bikes are to
>> those dirt roads and trails (I've ridden a few).  I've wondered about other
>> smaller bike companies and the tendency to match their designs to the local
>> road/trail surfaces and wondered if one could somehow make a matching game
>> of types of riding to company design philosophies?
>>
>> This is not a fully formed theory but I recall talking to DeSalvo at the
>> NAHBS a few years ago and him talking about how this particular bike was
>> ideally suited to the roads/gravel he rides in that area (pictured here).
>>
>>
>> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/03/reflections-on-north-american-handmade.html
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>> Addison Wilhite, M.A.
>>
>> Academy of Arts, Careers and 
>> Technology
>>
>>
>> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>>
>> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>>
>> Blogger: Reno Rambler 
>>
>> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
>> Advisory 
>> Committee
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 1:43 PM, WETH  wrote:
>>
>>>  Beautiful photos of great scenery.  It certainly sounded like a great
>>> trip.  Thanks for sharing.
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
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>>
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Hugh Smitham]

Addison,

I imagine we are talking optimal here. I have ridden my Hilsen with 41~42
mm Fatty Rumpkin's over some pretty harsh jeep roads ( with 25 lb loads)
and though not ideal they served me well with no real undo loss of control.
Would a modern MTB with 2.25 mm +  tires and ridiculous amounts of travel
handle the type of terrain your describing better? Short answer is yes but
when I bike camp I figure to dismount and use my LCG. I don't mind walking
through a gnarly section. The wider tires may allow you to move quicker
though rough terrain and one with suspension even quicker, however I no
longer desire to rush past the beauty of my surroundings.

On a more psychological note, I need to refrain from rationalizing a sliver
of advantage and furthering my consumer first world issues. I rationalized
after riding Homer with those above size tire's that I needed an Atlantis
with larger tires...I could run 55 mm's IIRC but I opted for 1.95" (47mm)
as a nice compromise, riding to the dirt via asphalt. I'm sur I could
further rationalize the need for a Hung but at some point one needs to draw
a line in the jeep trail.

My .02 cents.

~Hugh

“Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving.” ― Albert Einstein

http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/




On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Addison Wilhite
wrote:

> Regarding tire size, what probably does not come through in my post is the
> rockiness and steepness of the jeep roads and trails we were on.  Obviously
> it is doable on the somewhat slim rubber, but not preferable.  One of these
> days I'll actually stop and take a photo of the surface in those parts but
> I'm usually too busy pedaling or holding on for dear life.
>
> This does bring up a point I've often thought about before in that Riv
> always seems to post photos of the camping excursions from their general
> geographic location and it is clear how ideally suited their bikes are to
> those dirt roads and trails (I've ridden a few).  I've wondered about other
> smaller bike companies and the tendency to match their designs to the local
> road/trail surfaces and wondered if one could somehow make a matching game
> of types of riding to company design philosophies?
>
> This is not a fully formed theory but I recall talking to DeSalvo at the
> NAHBS a few years ago and him talking about how this particular bike was
> ideally suited to the roads/gravel he rides in that area (pictured here).
>
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/03/reflections-on-north-american-handmade.html
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A.
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and 
> Technology
>
>
> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler 
>
> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
> Advisory Committee
>
>
>
> On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 1:43 PM, WETH  wrote:
>
>> Beautiful photos of great scenery.  It certainly sounded like a great
>> trip.  Thanks for sharing.
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Addison Wilhite]

That AllRounder frame is a "monster."  I've had 2.2s on it.  These beefy
tires would have made my trip a little cushier...and looks pretty cool as
well.  :)

http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/search?q=monster


Addison Wilhite, M.A.

Academy of Arts, Careers and
Technology


*“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

Educator: Professional Portfolio 

Blogger: Reno Rambler 

Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
Advisory Committee



On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 3:34 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Makes perfect sense to me, Addison. Now I have the option of a 38 mm under
> biking experience, I really appreciate it and the challenge it offers for
> fast, unlaiden rides. IT is fun to pick a line and thread my way as I need
> to through the more technical sections. But for trips where I need to carry
> more for whatever reason, it sure is wonderful having the bigger tires and
> no need to worry.
>
> I definitely noticed a difference between 2.1 and 2.25" tires, so even
> adding a wee bit makes a difference, though it looks like you are near the
> endue of clearance on yours?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Deacon Patrick]

Makes perfect sense to me, Addison. Now I have the option of a 38 mm under 
biking experience, I really appreciate it and the challenge it offers for 
fast, unlaiden rides. IT is fun to pick a line and thread my way as I need 
to through the more technical sections. But for trips where I need to carry 
more for whatever reason, it sure is wonderful having the bigger tires and 
no need to worry.

I definitely noticed a difference between 2.1 and 2.25" tires, so even 
adding a wee bit makes a difference, though it looks like you are near the 
endue of clearance on yours?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[IanA]

This link to Jan Heine's blog is informative.  I would try this method 
before giving up on the crank. 
 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/04/16/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/

As an aside, I had a Sugino GP come loose on me a couple of times.  I 
torqued it down properly and it's been perfect ever since, but I have heard 
of people damaging the taper by running the crank loose - I don't know how 
likely that is.  Red Locktite should only be used to forever seize metal 
threads.  I can't think of a single application where red Locktite should 
be used on a bicycle.  The blue stuff is great for things like fender and 
rack bolts - bolts that tend to vibrate loose.  The blue Locktite is a good 
anti-seize/lubricate during installation product. Blue Locktite could be 
okay to use on the crank bolt threads, but the taper wouldn't need it, just 
light grease apparently.

Ian A.  

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 1:44:05 PM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well I was riding a 1000k brevet and about 75 miles into the 2nd day's 
> ride, I noticed that my left side crank had come loose.  I tightened it 
> down but it was loose again in a mile.  So I really torqued it down and 
> that lasted about five miles.  So this pattern persisted, but it kept 
> getting worse until I could only ride a few hundred yards before the 
> crankarm was loose again.
>
> I finally abandoned my 1000k at the next town, Buffalo, TX, where I am 
> currently stranded.  But I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong.
>
> What is the required torque for spare taper spindle cranks?  My friends 
> kept saying it just wasn't possible to get enough torque on the bolt using 
> a multi-tool, but I am pretty strong and I put as much tightening force 
> into it as I could.
>
> Would Locktite Red have helped?  Tried to find some but no auto parts 
> stores in this town are open Sunday.
>
> The threads don't seem to be stripped, but is it possible the spindle is 
> cracked?
>
> Is my taper trashed now?
>
> Parts:  Sugino XD600, BB-UN-55.
>
> Mileage completed:  321.
>
> Pic:  there it sits.
>

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Re: [RBW] RBW 20th Anniversary Gathering and Entmoot -- SF Bay edition

[BSWP]

The Entmoot is set for July 12th, yes? Any updates or other news? I'll be 
in town and look forward to meeting and riding that day.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Addison Wilhite]

Regarding tire size, what probably does not come through in my post is the
rockiness and steepness of the jeep roads and trails we were on.  Obviously
it is doable on the somewhat slim rubber, but not preferable.  One of these
days I'll actually stop and take a photo of the surface in those parts but
I'm usually too busy pedaling or holding on for dear life.

This does bring up a point I've often thought about before in that Riv
always seems to post photos of the camping excursions from their general
geographic location and it is clear how ideally suited their bikes are to
those dirt roads and trails (I've ridden a few).  I've wondered about other
smaller bike companies and the tendency to match their designs to the local
road/trail surfaces and wondered if one could somehow make a matching game
of types of riding to company design philosophies?

This is not a fully formed theory but I recall talking to DeSalvo at the
NAHBS a few years ago and him talking about how this particular bike was
ideally suited to the roads/gravel he rides in that area (pictured here).

http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/03/reflections-on-north-american-handmade.html

Cheers,


Addison Wilhite, M.A.

Academy of Arts, Careers and
Technology


*“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

Educator: Professional Portfolio 

Blogger: Reno Rambler 

Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
Advisory Committee



On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 1:43 PM, WETH  wrote:

> Beautiful photos of great scenery.  It certainly sounded like a great
> trip.  Thanks for sharing.
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[RoadieRyan]

Jim very sorry to hear of your mechanical on a long Brevet.  I had a 
similar issues with a Sugino crank and Shimano square taper bb combo, 
although not as severe as yours but I did have to regularly tighten the non 
drive crank to the where I got fed up and just swapped out the whole set up 
for a new crank (single chain ring)  and bb  (VO grand cru) and have not 
had that issue since.

Ryan

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 12:44:05 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well I was riding a 1000k brevet and about 75 miles into the 2nd day's 
> ride, I noticed that my left side crank had come loose.  I tightened it 
> down but it was loose again in a mile.  So I really torqued it down and 
> that lasted about five miles.  So this pattern persisted, but it kept 
> getting worse until I could only ride a few hundred yards before the 
> crankarm was loose again.
>
> I finally abandoned my 1000k at the next town, Buffalo, TX, where I am 
> currently stranded.  But I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong.
>
> What is the required torque for spare taper spindle cranks?  My friends 
> kept saying it just wasn't possible to get enough torque on the bolt using 
> a multi-tool, but I am pretty strong and I put as much tightening force 
> into it as I could.
>
> Would Locktite Red have helped?  Tried to find some but no auto parts 
> stores in this town are open Sunday.
>
> The threads don't seem to be stripped, but is it possible the spindle is 
> cracked?
>
> Is my taper trashed now?
>
> Parts:  Sugino XD600, BB-UN-55.
>
> Mileage completed:  321.
>
> Pic:  there it sits.
>

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Re: [RBW] 400k plus

[Lynne Fitz]

just in case you all don't know this - Mike is a Very Very Strong Rider.  
Others of us have to work a lot harder at it, might get a half hour sleep at 
the overnight control, or still be working on fueling, because we can't do it 
all on corndogs and fried stuff :-)  Being a faster rider gives you more 
options.

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[RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[WETH]

Beautiful photos of great scenery.  It certainly sounded like a great trip.  
Thanks for sharing.

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[RBW] Re: Redwood & Bags #3 & #4. Color Poll!

[Deacon Patrick]

Ooops. I'm in the wrong thread. Clearly not enough Ardbeg yet. Sardonic 
grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Redwood & Bags #3 & #4. Color Poll!

[Deacon Patrick]

V. the unnatural of the lilac? Grin.

I love the uncommon, natural of the lilac. I love the common, natural of 
the green. Thus, it's a tie. and the tie goes to the closest thing to 
Ardbeg. Ardbeg's colors (besides beautiful glistening rich deep gold) are 
black (unhelpful) and deep mossy green (OOOH! Helpful.) Tie goes to the 
green! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 2:28:22 PM UTC-6, hsmitham wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I'd have to go with the natural with the green frame. It also looks great 
> with the tan saddle.
>
> ~Hugh
>
> On Saturday, May 24, 2014 3:48:51 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>>
>> I finally got around to finishing my Redwood build. I had initially built 
>> it up with parts swapped directly from an 80s touring frame with low-ish 
>> trail and bars that were 40cm at brake hoods, and with a small front rack 
>> and decaleur for carrying an Acorn tall rando bag. That setup just wasn't 
>> what the frame was intended for. It did ride great with a full rando bag 
>> and I was a little bummed.
>>
>> So... I stripped a few parts off and the bike sat it a closet for a 
>> month. Not a bad idea at all.
>>
>> When I built it back up I put on 44cm Noodles and went for a rack-less 
>> setup. It rides beautifully now and I've finally enjoyed Noodles (gave them 
>> a few tries in the past and they just didn't fit with the frames I had).
>>
>> Combined with my recent dabbling in bag-making, the Redwood really works 
>> great with a small-ish bag up front on the handlebars and a saddle wedge. 
>>
>> On to the bags...
>> I found cheaply some scraps of very thick natural cotton duck canvas and 
>> some not as thick yellow cotton duck. I waxed the fabrics myself with a 
>> homemade mixture, then hand stitched them. I hadn't originally intended 
>> them to go on the Redwood, but it worked out nicely. 
>>
>> Now.. the color poll.
>> These bags were experiments and I'd change a couple dimensions to 
>> specifically fit the Redwood. 
>> So, which color looks best?
>>
>> Natural beige or the yellow?
>>
>> Photos here: 
>> http://s821.photobucket.com/user/dabanzer/library/bicycles?sort=3&page=1
>>
>> Would appreciate any thoughts or bagmakers tips.
>> Thanks,
>> David
>> Chicago
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Redwood & Bags #3 & #4. Color Poll!

[hsmitham]

David,

I'd have to go with the natural with the green frame. It also looks great 
with the tan saddle.

~Hugh

On Saturday, May 24, 2014 3:48:51 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I finally got around to finishing my Redwood build. I had initially built 
> it up with parts swapped directly from an 80s touring frame with low-ish 
> trail and bars that were 40cm at brake hoods, and with a small front rack 
> and decaleur for carrying an Acorn tall rando bag. That setup just wasn't 
> what the frame was intended for. It did ride great with a full rando bag 
> and I was a little bummed.
>
> So... I stripped a few parts off and the bike sat it a closet for a month. 
> Not a bad idea at all.
>
> When I built it back up I put on 44cm Noodles and went for a rack-less 
> setup. It rides beautifully now and I've finally enjoyed Noodles (gave them 
> a few tries in the past and they just didn't fit with the frames I had).
>
> Combined with my recent dabbling in bag-making, the Redwood really works 
> great with a small-ish bag up front on the handlebars and a saddle wedge. 
>
> On to the bags...
> I found cheaply some scraps of very thick natural cotton duck canvas and 
> some not as thick yellow cotton duck. I waxed the fabrics myself with a 
> homemade mixture, then hand stitched them. I hadn't originally intended 
> them to go on the Redwood, but it worked out nicely. 
>
> Now.. the color poll.
> These bags were experiments and I'd change a couple dimensions to 
> specifically fit the Redwood. 
> So, which color looks best?
>
> Natural beige or the yellow?
>
> Photos here: 
> http://s821.photobucket.com/user/dabanzer/library/bicycles?sort=3&page=1
>
> Would appreciate any thoughts or bagmakers tips.
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
>

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[RBW] Re: Writing a poem is like riding a bike. Kinda.

[hsmitham]

+2 on the share.

On Saturday, May 24, 2014 8:20:29 AM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> Not Rivendell related but too good not to share.
> My favorite comic strip artist. 
> Grant Snider.
>
>
> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lLVOcpHNd00/U1kIex4ctWI/EH4/j4PjZo0xOcw/s1600/writingpoetry-blog.jpg
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Chris Chen]

Well there's one way to find out, and it's not from a mailing list. :)


On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Michael  wrote:

> I would love to ride a Rambouillet, a Roadeo, a Herse, or a Singer,  to
>> compare.
>>
>
> I am curious what a "light weight tubing" steel road bike feels like.
>
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-- 
"I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah

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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Garth]

You don't need strength of arms, not does that help. You need leverage !  
And the longer the lever, the better .  I use a long Sears torque wrench 
only because I already have one, but if I did not I'd get the longest 
socket wrench I could find, and attach the 8mm socket and use that. I use 
about 30 ft-lbs of torque, which is a long wrench is needed to acquire. 
That's wy more than you can do with a mutli tool , it's just too short 
.  

Post some pics of your arm inside from the backside so we can even see what 
it looks like . 




On Sunday, May 25, 2014 3:44:05 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well I was riding a 1000k brevet and about 75 miles into the 2nd day's 
> ride, I noticed that my left side crank had come loose.  I tightened it 
> down but it was loose again in a mile.  So I really torqued it down and 
> that lasted about five miles.  So this pattern persisted, but it kept 
> getting worse until I could only ride a few hundred yards before the 
> crankarm was loose again.
>
> I finally abandoned my 1000k at the next town, Buffalo, TX, where I am 
> currently stranded.  But I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong.
>
> What is the required torque for spare taper spindle cranks?  My friends 
> kept saying it just wasn't possible to get enough torque on the bolt using 
> a multi-tool, but I am pretty strong and I put as much tightening force 
> into it as I could.
>
> Would Locktite Red have helped?  Tried to find some but no auto parts 
> stores in this town are open Sunday.
>
> The threads don't seem to be stripped, but is it possible the spindle is 
> cracked?
>
> Is my taper trashed now?
>
> Parts:  Sugino XD600, BB-UN-55.
>
> Mileage completed:  321.
>
> Pic:  there it sits.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Jim Bronson]

A relative is driving 4 hours to rescue me.
On May 25, 2014 2:57 PM, "Michael"  wrote:

> Sorry you had to stop. You must be heartbroken.
>>
> But at least it wasn't the engine's fault.
>
> What are your plans for getting back home? I don't think Rando clubs offer
> support. Is that right?
>
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Garth]

You don't need strength of arms, not does that help. You need leverage !  
And the longer the lever, the better .  I use a long Sear torque wrench 
because I have one, but if I did not I'd get the longest socket wrench I 
could find, and attach the 8mm socket and use that. I use about 30 ft-lbs 
of torque, which is a long wrench is needed to acquire. That's wy more 
than you can do with a mutli tool , it's just too short .  

Post some pics of your arm inside from the backside so we can even see what 
it looks like . 




On Sunday, May 25, 2014 3:44:05 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Well I was riding a 1000k brevet and about 75 miles into the 2nd day's 
> ride, I noticed that my left side crank had come loose.  I tightened it 
> down but it was loose again in a mile.  So I really torqued it down and 
> that lasted about five miles.  So this pattern persisted, but it kept 
> getting worse until I could only ride a few hundred yards before the 
> crankarm was loose again.
>
> I finally abandoned my 1000k at the next town, Buffalo, TX, where I am 
> currently stranded.  But I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong.
>
> What is the required torque for spare taper spindle cranks?  My friends 
> kept saying it just wasn't possible to get enough torque on the bolt using 
> a multi-tool, but I am pretty strong and I put as much tightening force 
> into it as I could.
>
> Would Locktite Red have helped?  Tried to find some but no auto parts 
> stores in this town are open Sunday.
>
> The threads don't seem to be stripped, but is it possible the spindle is 
> cracked?
>
> Is my taper trashed now?
>
> Parts:  Sugino XD600, BB-UN-55.
>
> Mileage completed:  321.
>
> Pic:  there it sits.
>

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[RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Michael]

>
> Sorry you had to stop. You must be heartbroken.
>
But at least it wasn't the engine's fault.
 
What are your plans for getting back home? I don't think Rando clubs offer 
support. Is that right? 

>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[grrlyrida]

Gorgeous scenery. I need to get out and ride up Mt. Hollywood after seeing 
those pics. Simply beautiful.

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 7:47:28 AM UTC-7, Addison wrote:
>
> Did a little jaunt out to Dog Valley west of Reno just a bit into 
> California on my Riv AR.  Didn't see too many meteors but it was a great 
> ride with some nice scenery.  I needed some beefier tires though.  And a 
> little more fitness.
>
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2014/05/a-little-bike-camping-dog-valley.html
>
> Cheers,
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and 
> Technology
>  
>
> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler  
>
> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian 
> Advisory Committee
>
> 

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Michael]

>
> I would love to ride a Rambouillet, a Roadeo, a Herse, or a Singer,  to 
> compare.
>
 
I am curious what a "light weight tubing" steel road bike feels like. 

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[RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[hsmitham]

Addison,

Thanks for the share of a beautiful bike over night camp in beautiful 
country. I'm with Deacon, why do you need wider tires? I'm planning on 
running 1.95" and I figure those to be plenty wide.

~Hugh

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 7:47:28 AM UTC-7, Addison wrote:
>
> Did a little jaunt out to Dog Valley west of Reno just a bit into 
> California on my Riv AR.  Didn't see too many meteors but it was a great 
> ride with some nice scenery.  I needed some beefier tires though.  And a 
> little more fitness.
>
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2014/05/a-little-bike-camping-dog-valley.html
>
> Cheers,
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and 
> Technology
>  
>
> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler  
>
> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian 
> Advisory Committee
>
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Patrick Moore]

The Sam, as nice as it is, can hardly compare to a top of the line road
bike from a good builder or designer, old or new. It's just not that kind
of bike, IME. Now for touring or cruising gravel or knockabout on- and
off-road rambles, it's great, but it will never ride like a good road bike,
including the Ram and, I daresay, the Roadeo.

Mine felt nice, but it was neither as spritely or as nimble in handling as
a pure road bike.

Apples to oranges, sez I.


On Sun, May 25, 2014 at 1:11 AM, Scot Brooks  wrote:

> I ride a LOT of classic steel, some good, some boring, some incredible. At
> my shop, fixing up classic steel frames while retaining their flavor is our
> entire business model. My Sam feels good but not at the level of some bikes
> that roll through our shop; an old Atala, a dumpster find Windsor, a
> Medici. Not to say they were made by people who care about what they do
> more than the people who made my Sam but they FELT incredible. Better in
> fact. Love my Sam but, man, the past had some nice stuff.
>
> --
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-- 
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

*
  * "Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to never
was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from it.
Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
* "Nothing outside you can give you any place," he said. "You needn't to
look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind
it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into
somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your
daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is
all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was
any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there,
because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where
in your time and your body can they be?*
*  "Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you?" he cried.
"Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where
Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of
you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 8:04:22 AM UTC-7, ascpgh wrote:
>
> A friend was just telling me about some conversations he was having at the 
> Cirque du Cyclism the other weekend that ran along the same lines. 
>
> He's had a Della Santa frame that he has held as precious for years and 
> finally got it all together only to find it just not right. He went to a 
> fitting and discovered that it has too long a top tube in its basic 
> geometry that apparently moves him beyond the envelope of the original 
> design expectation when he tried to adjust by stem extension or seat 
> position/seat post options.
>
Is this the builder's fault? It sounds like your friend bought a bike that 
was too big for him. Who fitted him initially? Unless your friend's "fit" 
changed over those years he had the frame but didn't built up, the fitter 
should have known that the top tube and "basic geometry," whatever that 
means, was right for him!
 

> What seems to be the thread common to Mertz, DiNucci and some of the other 
> old builders present was workmanship presumed of all frames. The attention 
> to detail let on that whoever filed a lug cared deeply, perhaps beyond the 
> quantification of monetary value  of their obsessive expense of time on 
> such. Today we are able to crunch numbers so easily, to enumerate the 
> exchange necessary for costs that we've moved beyond the intrinsic value of 
> craftsmanship to heel to the MBAs and finance departments who seek parody 
> of gain for expenses quantifiable. So perhaps today it is business modeling 
> that limits the obsession able to be administered to make even a well 
> designed steel frame still seem less special than one from the '60s or 
> '70s, back when everything took more time and that spendthrift filing lugs 
> may have been well spent while waiting for the phone to ring or the mail to 
> arrive.
>
I'm confused by who you are talking about?! Yes, some mfrs build bikes that 
are designed to be "mass-marketed" and are not as finely tuned as frames 
from years back. But today's custom frame builders are putting out some of 
the best designed and made frames. Go look at frames by any custom builder 
like Bruce Gordon, Roland Della Santa, Brent Steelman, Mark Nobilette, 
Sasha White/Vanilla, Richard Sachs to name a few  and you will see frames 
are that equal to or many cases better than those made in the 60s and 70s!
 

> My friend saw a very early Tom Ritchey that was made for one of those 
> builder's wife which he said was breathtaking in such details.
>
Yes, if you're lucky enough to get a frame actually build by Tom, it will 
be well done. But that shouldn't be compared to any of his production 
frames made in Taiwan/China. Different markets, different price range and 
different qualities! Good Luck! 

> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Mike Williams]

Nice pics!

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2014, at 7:47 AM, Addison Wilhite  wrote:
> 
> Did a little jaunt out to Dog Valley west of Reno just a bit into California 
> on my Riv AR.  Didn't see too many meteors but it was a great ride with some 
> nice scenery.  I needed some beefier tires though.  And a little more fitness.
> 
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2014/05/a-little-bike-camping-dog-valley.html
> 
> Cheers,
> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
> 
> Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology 
> 
> “Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”
> 
> Educator: Professional Portfolio
> 
> Blogger: Reno Rambler 
> 
> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian 
> Advisory Committee
> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] 400k plus

[Mike]

On Friday, May 23, 2014 1:58:18 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
>
>   
> -- I ride remote roads and trails, so the world is my toilet. 
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
 
Ha!
 
As for 400ks... Uggh. Definately my least favorite brevet distance. In 
fact, I've only ever done two, hence only 2 SRs in spite of 5yrs of 
randonneuring. Like others have said, 200k prepares you for 300k which 
prepares you for 400k and in turn you should be able to do a 600k... I know 
I've said this here before but my experience has been that 600ks are 
generally easier than 400ks becasue if you're not going too slow, and 
you're not intent on riding straight through, you can grab a couple of 
hours of sleep. It makes for a nice long weekend on the bike. 
 
I did the Cascade 1200k in 2012 and didn't really do any special 
preparation. IIn fact, I only rode 200k, 300k and 600k brevets and one 100k 
permanent and one 200k perm.. I was able to include the 400k I did in 2011 
to qualify. I was nervous heading into the Cascade in the same way I was 
nervous going into my first 600k. It went fine. It was really difficult at 
times with a few miserable moments primarily due to rain, but in general it 
was a nice long 4 days on th bike. I'd also add that I didn't do any 
special interval training or anything. 
 
Different things work for different people. The best information is gonna 
come from your own experience of riding qualifying brevets. Have fun. 
 
--mike

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[RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Deacon Patrick]

Fantastic! How wonderful to have your wife join you too. What makes you say 
you needed wider tires?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Montclair BobbyB]

BEAUTIFUL scenery!!!



On Sunday, May 25, 2014 10:47:28 AM UTC-4, Addison wrote:

> Did a little jaunt out to Dog Valley west of Reno just a bit into 
> California on my Riv AR.  Didn't see too many meteors but it was a great 
> ride with some nice scenery.  I needed some beefier tires though.  And a 
> little more fitness.
>
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2014/05/a-little-bike-camping-dog-valley.html
>
> Cheers,
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and 
> Technology
>  
>
> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler  
>
> Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian 
> Advisory Committee
>
> 

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[RBW] Re: Habitual rides, riding habits

[Ron Mc]

and about kit.  Flexible is everything.  With my two bikes, I can keep 
permanent kit on both.  On my go-fast I keep roadside gear in Acorn tubular 
bag and carry personal stuff in an Randi-Jo bartender, or a 3rd water 
bottle in a pinch. On my fender bike and load-hauler, my tools and tubes 
are in a Lemolo roll-up.  My front rack can carry either a rando bag or 
small trunksack.  The trunksack can carry a spare tire, Stans and sundries. 
 I've also discovered my Randi-Jo MUT bag can fit a 25-oz. Laken stainless 
thermos, so I lashed it to the side of my rear rack, and I can carry up to 
70 oz. liquid total.  This morning, though, I replaced everything in the 
trunksack except a rag with my rain shell, and carried my cell phone and 
garage door opener in the MUT bag.  It was handy having the rain shell when 
I made my retreat.  

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 9:08:58 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I got rained out this morning - not that I'm complaining.  Right when I 
> reached the creek road, the rain was coming down hard enough to dig for my 
> rain shell, and that's the point to turn around.  Not because my bike can't 
> handle it, but because I don't trust drivers on the twisty road - the 
> wounded water buffalo syndrome.  Still, the climb home was good work.  
>
> On Saturday, May 24, 2014 4:57:20 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> It's interesting to hear others' habits. I have no desire at all to spend 
>> more than a few hours on the bike at a time, but I must, or ought, or, 
>> let's say it might be nice to, get out of the habit or rut of riding hard 
>> just for a few miles. I might rediscover the long rambles of my 
>> adolescence, when I would take 4 hour afternoon rides all over the Kenyan 
>> countryside -- but I pushed myself then, too, so must do so very slowly at 
>> first.
>>
>> Time is not always available, but I should calendar a 4 hour slot on a 
>> nice, calm day to just do a Tramway (hill; the hill proper is about 5 miles 
>> long) out and back or a ramble to Bernalillo. 
>>
>> Lynn: I suppose that the secret to long rides is simply "ride lots"? And 
>> to start slowly? And to bring enough water and a bit of food? (I rode hard 
>> for 40-50 milers as a boy without ever thinking of water, let along food; 
>> getting such severe bonk that I'd see white spots on the pavement and have 
>> to push at the slightest incline.) I may find that with longer rides I need 
>> more than a 9 speed corncob (not quite but close, 16-26) on the Ram.
>>
>> Dave: you are the man, if you can push a 90" gear without a strong 
>> tailwind. My first bike had about that gear, but I've long since dropped to 
>> top out at about a 85" gear, on downhills and with tailwinds. OTOH, if you 
>> daughter is like I was at 16-18, I can imagine certainly needing one to 
>> keep up.
>>
>> Chris: "useful" riding will always be my preferred riding; it all seems 
>> more fun, certainly it is more appealing to get into the saddle at all, if 
>> I have a destination of some practical sort to ride to. 
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who just rode precisely 6.57 miles to the PO and Grocery 
>> Store and back (I allow half a mile for stumbling around the store aisles), 
>> but who may not be able to ride the 8.5 miles to church if it keeps raining 
>> (rain) in ABQ, NM.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 23, 2014 at 11:28 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> The other thread on brevets got me thinking. As someone for whom a long 
>>> ride is 30 miles, it is very interesting to see what distances others like 
>>> to ride, and how. Yesterday's ride for me was a great one, combining 
>>> several things that I find pleasant:
>>>
>>> a mid-way "useful" destination (bike shop visit);
>>>
>>> pushing myself (I realize that "pushing", and even more the result of 
>>> that, is very relative to my ability) -- pushing a bigger gear than usual 
>>> outbound because of the tailwind (75" and 80" gears); pushing against a 
>>> stiff wind on the return, 72" with a mile or so in the 65"; 11 miles out 
>>> with a small circuit, and 9 miles straight back).
>>>
>>> a bike that is fun to push hard (ish): the Ram with nice close gearing, 
>>> and saddle and bar set up *just so* so that I can ride for extended periods 
>>> in the hooks, elbows bent, slow cadence, large torque.
>>>
>>> a distance -- 20 miles -- that somewhat stretched me at the pace I was 
>>> maintaining but that was long enough to get into stride and finish without 
>>> being exhausted.
>>>
>>> I find though that after 30 years of this sort of riding -- short, hard* 
>>> -- it is hard for me imaginatively and emotionally to break out of the 
>>> habit. I want to push hard from the end of the driveway, so to speak. And 
>>> even though I've learned -- it took me literally 8 years of trying -- to 
>>> ride more slowly, particularly for the first 2-3 miles, I get impatient 
>>> when I go too slowly. The down side of going hard is that you, or at least 
>>> I, rather quickly get to a point where I've had enough and 

Re: [RBW] Hilsen for sale

[Peter Morgano]

Complete? Build kit? Interested.
On May 25, 2014 11:25 AM, "casey"  wrote:

> F.S. Homer Hilsen. 61 cm. Black and cream. Down tube shifters, Sugino 170
> cranks. Small chips in the paint here and there but, very clean very nice.
> $2300. Contact me at 530 277 7528. Casey.
>
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[RBW] Re: Dark wine red metallic Sams coming out in July.

[Daniel D.]

Sounds like a very tempting color.  

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 9:00:56 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>
> Unless its a joke.
> I put nothing past those jokesters at both BQ and RBW.
>
> But it does say on the Blug:
> " This July round of Sams will be the stock blue color, but also available 
> in a nice dark wine red metallic"
>
> That would be a very cool color if it is really dark, and really metallic.
> My wife's favorite color for bikes.
> Maybe now I can convince her to get a RBW bike!
> They need to put up some pics soon so I can show the wife!!
>

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[RBW] Re: A Tale of Two Saluki's

[Mathew Greiner]

They're both gorgeous, but my preference is for the purple, for three 
purely subjective reasons. 1. I just don't like green. Some greens are OK, 
and there's an exception to every rule (Atlantii, for example, have their 
own funky appeal). 2. Some metallic or metallic-leaning colors are just a 
little harsh for my tastes. I'll pick a solid color in any palette or 
configuration over a metallic or iridescent 98% of the time. 3. Despite the 
aversion to a perceived harshness, I thoroughly enjoy bold and brash. 
Purple fits that bill. 

On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 11:47:18 PM UTC-5, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> By Bill and Tony (and Amy and Steve)
>
> Almost ten years later two Saluki's get dragged into a garage to compare 
> life story's and go home with new riders!  My Purple-Luki (#0017, via Amy) 
> and Bill's Green-Luki (#008, via Steve) are two great looking bikes.  Both 
> size 60cm Saluki's and the only noticeable frame delta is the lower 
> placement of the low rider braze on's for the Green-Luki.  How cool is it 
> to see these two side by side as bare frames!?!  I couldn't be happier with 
> my 'fairway green' bike and it sounds like Bill is looking forward to 
> building up a striking Moustache Bar'd rig with the Agapanthus Purple... 
> seems like a win win!
>
> Bill wanted to poll the list on personal color preferences between the 
> two... obviously he and I have already cast our votes but we're curious 
> where the RBW-OB's are on the Green vs Purple.  What say you?!?
>
> Regardless it is cool to know a bit about the history behind a used frame 
> ('rolling art' as Bill said on Sunday)...
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Any 60cm Cheviots in the Boston area?

[oceanofsound]

I'm trying to set my dad up with a Cheviot for father's day, ideally the 
now sold out 60cm model (anybody with buyer's remorse want to sell a 
frame?). He test rode a 55cm model at Harris and liked it well enough, but 
thought he could possibly go bigger. After test riding a 60 and a 55 myself 
at RivHQ today, I have to say that there's something pretty special to the 
"cabin cruiser" like ride of the 60. Is there anybody in the Boston area 
who has a 60 that would be willing to let my dad test ride it? 

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[RBW] WTB: Albatross Bars

[Michael Ullmer]

I tried to bump a previous post I had, but failed to find out how to do it. 
Anyways, I'm finishing up a build on a Trek 620 and need  a set of 
Albatross Bars to finish it off. If anyone has a pair sitting around let me 
know. Thanks! and reply off-list please.

Mike

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[RBW] Hilsen for sale

[casey]

F.S. Homer Hilsen. 61 cm. Black and cream. Down tube shifters, Sugino 170 
cranks. Small chips in the paint here and there but, very clean very nice. 
$2300. Contact me at 530 277 7528. Casey.

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[RBW] WTB: Albastache

[Michael Ullmer]

Anyone have a set they want to sell? Contact off-list please, thanks!.

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[RBW] Re: Soma's Tanaka Decaleurs???

[jphillip...@icloud.com]

Evan & Manny, 

Thanks, you guys answered all my questions, and then some!

John  (who wears a helmet or his wife will hit him and make him wish he did)

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[RBW] Re: 400k plus

[lukeheller]

There's no perfect formula to know when you've trained enough to meet your 
next goal. However, the 200-300-400-600 progression is a really good guide 
in my experience. Do you need to fill the 400-600 gap with a 500k? No, I 
really don't think so. 

I'd like to believe:
if you can ride a 100k, you can ride a 200k
if you can ride a 200k, you can ride a 300k
if you can ride a 300k, you can ride a 400k
if you can ride a 400k, you can ride a 600k
if you can ride a 600k, you can ride a 1200k

after all, isn't one of the greatest barriers to our own accomplishments 
what *we believe we can do?*

when I started doing brevets, the closest brevets were a minimum of 3-4 
hours away. I did my first 400k before ever doing a 300k but I had been 
training and doing many 100mile+ rides in the mountains which added a 
considerable amount of difficulty. So you see, i was convinced that my 
mountainous 200k's had adequately prepared me for a flat/rolling 400k. and 
it did. i think largely, because i believed it would.

once you get on the other side of your first complete brevet series, your 
conception of what you can accomplish on a bicycle will be drastically 
different. mine was.

200s and 300s are a fair bit easier because you don't have to worry about 
the sleep monster.
400s - the sleep monster begin to rear it's ugly head at times.
600s - the sleep monster cometh

however, i'd rather ride a 600 any day than a 400 for some reason. 400's 
are just my tough spot. something about getting to the bed for a brief nap 
before riding the last 200k on a 600k is far more enticing than just 
finishing a 400k. 

i did my first few years of brevets + my first 1000k on my Romulus.

see you in Paris!




On Friday, May 23, 2014 8:05:14 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> I know several of you in the group ride brevets so it's time to pick your 
> brains. I've taken them up again this year. In 2011 i completed a 200k, had 
> a DNF 300k followed by finishing a planned 175 mile ride. I've had no rides 
> over 50-60 miles since until this year, got fat, etc. I decided I needed a 
> goal to help motivate me so I put PBP 2015 on the calendar. I've lost over 
> 45 lbs and am loving riding again. I did a 200k a couple of weeks ago and 
> have a 300k next week which I'm nervous about but fairly confident. My 
> question is about beyond that. I'm wondering if I need to progress to the 
> other distances. In other words, should I try 350k before 400 then 500 
> before 600? Or do you think that by the time I've gone 300k that the base 
> is built up enough to sustain the larger jumps in time and distance? Riv 
> content: I'm riding this on my Homer and loving it! I'd like to complete 
> the whole series (200,300,400, 600) this summer so I'll have a good taste 
> for what's in store next year in Paris.

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[ascpgh]

A friend was just telling me about some conversations he was having at the 
Cirque du Cyclism the other weekend that ran along the same lines. 

He's had a Della Santa frame that he has held as precious for years and finally 
got it all together only to find it just not right. He went to a fitting and 
discovered that it has too long a top tube in its basic geometry that 
apparently moves him beyond the envelope of the original design expectation 
when he tried to adjust by stem extension or seat position/seat post options.

What seems to be the thread common to Mertz, DiNucci and some of the other old 
builders present was workmanship presumed of all frames. The attention to 
detail let on that whoever filed a lug cared deeply, perhaps beyond the 
quantification of monetary value  of their obsessive expense of time on such. 
Today we are able to crunch numbers so easily, to enumerate the exchange 
necessary for costs that we've moved beyond the intrinsic value of 
craftsmanship to heel to the MBAs and finance departments who seek parody of 
gain for expenses quantifiable. So perhaps today it is business modeling that 
limits the obsession able to be administered to make even a well designed steel 
frame still seem less special than one from the '60s or '70s, back when 
everything took more time and that spendthrift filing lugs may have been well 
spent while waiting for the phone to ring or the mail to arrive.

My friend saw a very early Tom Ritchey that was made for one of those builder's 
wife which he said was breathtaking in such details. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

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[RBW] Sub 24 Bike Camp Trip

[Addison Wilhite]

Did a little jaunt out to Dog Valley west of Reno just a bit into
California on my Riv AR.  Didn't see too many meteors but it was a great
ride with some nice scenery.  I needed some beefier tires though.  And a
little more fitness.

http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2014/05/a-little-bike-camping-dog-valley.html

Cheers,

Addison Wilhite, M.A.

Academy of Arts, Careers and
Technology


*“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

Educator: Professional Portfolio 

Blogger: Reno Rambler 

Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
Advisory Committee

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 12:11:34 AM UTC-7, Scot Brooks wrote:
>
> I ride a LOT of classic steel, some good, some boring, some incredible. At 
> my shop, fixing up classic steel frames while retaining their flavor is our 
> entire business model. My Sam feels good but not at the level of some bikes 
> that roll through our shop; an old Atala, a dumpster find Windsor, a 
> Medici. Not to say they were made by people who care about what they do 
> more than the people who made my Sam but they FELT incredible. Better in 
> fact. Love my Sam but, man, the past had some nice stuff.


This is good info from someone in the know! Question, have you tried any of 
today's frames with the really lightweight tubing like True Temper S3, 
Reynolds 953 or the Columbus or Dedacci(sp?) equivalent?  Thanks! 

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[RBW] Re: Habitual rides, riding habits

[Ron Mc]

I got rained out this morning - not that I'm complaining.  Right when I 
reached the creek road, the rain was coming down hard enough to dig for my 
rain shell, and that's the point to turn around.  Not because my bike can't 
handle it, but because I don't trust drivers on the twisty road - the 
wounded water buffalo syndrome.  Still, the climb home was good work.  

On Saturday, May 24, 2014 4:57:20 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> It's interesting to hear others' habits. I have no desire at all to spend 
> more than a few hours on the bike at a time, but I must, or ought, or, 
> let's say it might be nice to, get out of the habit or rut of riding hard 
> just for a few miles. I might rediscover the long rambles of my 
> adolescence, when I would take 4 hour afternoon rides all over the Kenyan 
> countryside -- but I pushed myself then, too, so must do so very slowly at 
> first.
>
> Time is not always available, but I should calendar a 4 hour slot on a 
> nice, calm day to just do a Tramway (hill; the hill proper is about 5 miles 
> long) out and back or a ramble to Bernalillo. 
>
> Lynn: I suppose that the secret to long rides is simply "ride lots"? And 
> to start slowly? And to bring enough water and a bit of food? (I rode hard 
> for 40-50 milers as a boy without ever thinking of water, let along food; 
> getting such severe bonk that I'd see white spots on the pavement and have 
> to push at the slightest incline.) I may find that with longer rides I need 
> more than a 9 speed corncob (not quite but close, 16-26) on the Ram.
>
> Dave: you are the man, if you can push a 90" gear without a strong 
> tailwind. My first bike had about that gear, but I've long since dropped to 
> top out at about a 85" gear, on downhills and with tailwinds. OTOH, if you 
> daughter is like I was at 16-18, I can imagine certainly needing one to 
> keep up.
>
> Chris: "useful" riding will always be my preferred riding; it all seems 
> more fun, certainly it is more appealing to get into the saddle at all, if 
> I have a destination of some practical sort to ride to. 
>
> Patrick Moore, who just rode precisely 6.57 miles to the PO and Grocery 
> Store and back (I allow half a mile for stumbling around the store aisles), 
> but who may not be able to ride the 8.5 miles to church if it keeps raining 
> (rain) in ABQ, NM.
>
>
> On Fri, May 23, 2014 at 11:28 AM, Patrick Moore 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> The other thread on brevets got me thinking. As someone for whom a long 
>> ride is 30 miles, it is very interesting to see what distances others like 
>> to ride, and how. Yesterday's ride for me was a great one, combining 
>> several things that I find pleasant:
>>
>> a mid-way "useful" destination (bike shop visit);
>>
>> pushing myself (I realize that "pushing", and even more the result of 
>> that, is very relative to my ability) -- pushing a bigger gear than usual 
>> outbound because of the tailwind (75" and 80" gears); pushing against a 
>> stiff wind on the return, 72" with a mile or so in the 65"; 11 miles out 
>> with a small circuit, and 9 miles straight back).
>>
>> a bike that is fun to push hard (ish): the Ram with nice close gearing, 
>> and saddle and bar set up *just so* so that I can ride for extended periods 
>> in the hooks, elbows bent, slow cadence, large torque.
>>
>> a distance -- 20 miles -- that somewhat stretched me at the pace I was 
>> maintaining but that was long enough to get into stride and finish without 
>> being exhausted.
>>
>> I find though that after 30 years of this sort of riding -- short, hard* 
>> -- it is hard for me imaginatively and emotionally to break out of the 
>> habit. I want to push hard from the end of the driveway, so to speak. And 
>> even though I've learned -- it took me literally 8 years of trying -- to 
>> ride more slowly, particularly for the first 2-3 miles, I get impatient 
>> when I go too slowly. The down side of going hard is that you, or at least 
>> I, rather quickly get to a point where I've had enough and want to go home.
>>
>> Incidentally, one reason I love fixed so much is that it works so well 
>> for this sort of riding.
>>
>>  * Hard used to be a lot harder when I was in my 30s and 40s; I'd 
>> routinely do just under 20 suburban miles in an hour; my usual routes were 
>> 18-20 miles taking me 55-65 minutes; or 15-16 mile one way commutes 
>> (sometimes expanded to 20) averaging 16-17 clock running across town, 7 
>> miles climbing fixed, depending whether or not there was a wind off the 
>> mountains in the morning.)
>>
>> But at 59I can't push myself as I did at 49 or 39, and I keep meaning to 
>> try longer -- let's say 40 miles -- and slower rides. The main reason for 
>> buying the Ram  at the very end of 2012 was to ride longer and easier; so 
>> far that hasn't happened.
>>
>> I'm not looking for advice, just thinking out loud. I have to say that I 
>> enjoy cycling even more now that I am 4 mph slower -- on the two legs 
>> yesterday I averaged 

[RBW] Mixte mixer in Detroit area.

[Marc Irwin]

I thought I would pass this on in case an Riv types in the area might like 
to know about it.  There will be a mixte meetup in New Baltimore, Mi on 
June 21 sponsored by the Anchor Bay Bicycle club. Details and 
map.
I plan to be there with 
Byron, 
my Buena Vista.

Marc

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[RBW] Re: FS or FT Silver bar ends, Nitto 9 cm stem

[blakcloud]

Pending shipping quote, the Nitto Tallux stem is spoken for.

Other items to add to the list. 

Nitto Tallux 10 cm stem, 25.4. 10 out of 10 condition. Installed and then 
removed, was too long. $50.00 plus shipping

Pair of Tektro brakes 559. Used for 100 km. $50.00 plus shipping. 9.5 out 
10 condition.

Please note that I live in Toronto, Canada and shipping costs can be higher 
than what you are use to in the US so it may not be cost effective if the 
price of shipping is too high. If interested give me your zip code so that 
I can get a shipping quote. We may both be surprised.

>
>

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Scot Brooks]

I ride a LOT of classic steel, some good, some boring, some incredible. At my 
shop, fixing up classic steel frames while retaining their flavor is our entire 
business model. My Sam feels good but not at the level of some bikes that roll 
through our shop; an old Atala, a dumpster find Windsor, a Medici. Not to say 
they were made by people who care about what they do more than the people who 
made my Sam but they FELT incredible. Better in fact. Love my Sam but, man, the 
past had some nice stuff. 

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