Re: [RBW] Re: Saddles

[Lee Legrand]

What about Gilles Berthoud?

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 6:58 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> You wouldn't think that 2mm is significant, but my 17 Select is by far the
> most comfortable saddle I've owned, and it was great brand new. Every time
> I ride my regular 17s, it feels like there's something wrong with them.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Lungimsam]

I reccommend Grand Bois 650b 36 hole black label rims. GB/Compass tires 
practically auto seat on them from my experience.

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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[Philip Williamson]

I am about the least discerning saddle rider on this list, but my next full 
price saddle will be a Rivet. They were so nice at NAHBS, and the details 
are beautiful: https://flic.kr/p/DEM31o Some saddles have a fabric 
reinforcing layer under the leather. The fabric is beautifully patterned, 
"Because why not make it beautiful?" 
It's a shame about bike shows - If there's one or zero pictures in the 
booth, then I probably had a great time chatting instead of snapping. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com


On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:41:44 AM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
> another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
>  
> HISTORY
> Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
> Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
> for sufficient width
> Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the B17. 
> Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
> Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
> Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
> used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
> the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
> the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
> back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
>  
> IDEAS
> Brooks B68 - no longer made
> Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
> Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
> and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
> Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jay
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Lungimsam]

Why dont you wear a helmet, Patrick?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Lungimsam]

Tim,

Sometimes the first ride in the rain, or throwing some water on rims and pads 
and  ride around using brakes should help them bed in and make the squeal stop.

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Re: [RBW] Centerpulls vs. cantis

[Will]

There was a thread on this a few months back. Shudder often relates to 
length of cable from hanger to brake straddle wire. Several posters 
resolved the issue with a bottom-of-head-tube hanger:

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ca15089.htm

I think Deacon Patrick resolved his Hung shudder this way. Perhaps he will 
comment.



On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 6:32:45 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> I don't like the canti brakes on my hunqapillar at all. The brake shudder 
> is so violent that it brings the front wheel off the ground.

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Deacon Patrick]

This is what I love about this group! Ideas I'd've never thought of but now 
am!
Rob, synergy by itself is over rated. Grin.
Ron, I'm loving that hat for December through mid-March! 
Will, I've tried that with other fabrics, but by the time the pesticides 
are gone the fabric is thread bare and falling apart under its own weight. 
Sardonic grin.
Ryan, indeed! Plank. Sliver. Eye. Hatchet. Naught can go wrong!
Steve: I do have my Snow Viking patch, so I really should have a proper 
helm. That has excellent neck, ear, nose and bald-spot sun coverage!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] FS: 650b Velocity Atlas 135mm wheelset

[dstein]

This is the stock 650b Velocity wheelset from Rivendell with Atlas rims and 
135mm Velocity Sport 
hub: http://www.rivbike.com/650B-Wheels-and-Rims-s/121.htm

36h. Less than 250 miles. Col De La Vie 38c tires included.

$300 plus shipping. Local pickup in Oakland preferred. 

PM if interested. Will try and post a picture tomorrow.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Braxton Colagross]

Perhaps the position on the fork makes the difference? Canti posts would be 
lower than center pull posts. 

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:00:30 PM UTC-7, Justin August wrote:
>
> A few years ago when I inquired about Paul Racer braze-ons on a Hilsen I 
> was told "no" by Riv due to fork/seatstay thickness issues. Since they have 
> hinted at being willing to do cantis on Hilsen frames that seems to have 
> changed. Perhaps they changed tubing specs or got similar tubing with less 
> manufacturer restrictions. Perhaps now you could ask to have Paul or 
> Compass braze-ons. Someone should check.
>

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[RBW] Re: V Brakes and Full fender set

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I tried running the TRP CX8.4 on my Litespeed Blue Ridge 
 but the horizontal 
crossover brake cable failed to clear the fender on the front (didn't try 
the rear after the front didn't work out). This setup had the front fender 
sit low and close to the Schwalbe 700x35c Kojak tire and the cable probably 
still required at least 6mm more head space. I eventually went with classic 
Shimano LX cantilever brakes. With 40mm width tires and fenders, I'm afraid 
you will be disappointed even with the slightly taller CX9 brakes.


On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 12:37:08 PM UTC-7, Ezequiel Orduno wrote:
>
> Who is running a 700cx40mm fenderset with TRP CX9 V brakes?? They are 90mm 
> arm length, i wanted to know if it would be possible to run them on my bike.
>

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Abcyclehank]

Gransfors Bruk hatchet?  Sometimes we fail to heed our own advice that seems so 
logical to present to others.  Although the focus on finesse is paramount 
should you attempt to modify a Tilley while wearing or riding.  

I alternate between two Tilleys, several fitted ball caps (worn backwards) in 
windy conditions, and bandanas, however like you I have lost both caps and 
bandanas.  

Personally I chalk it up to epic experiences and a tolken price to pay for the 
joys of cycling and rapid descents.

Sincerely,
Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Eric Norris]

There's bike theft *everywhere*. I keep most of my bikes indoors in a room with 
a motion detecting burglar alarm. 

–Eric N


> On Apr 5, 2016, at 6:17 PM, Hugh Smitham  wrote:
> 
> I think that's a great point. I have a friend up in PDX and he has a garage 
> and still locks them up in the house. Apparently,  PDX has a bunch of bike 
> theft.
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2016 6:10 PM, "masmojo"  wrote:
>> Just my opinion,  but I would not put the Riv. In a detached garage in 
>> Oakland! I would put it in the house proper. Other bikes in the garage? 
>> Beaters? OK. Of course it sort of depends on the garage,  not only how 
>> secure,  but also how isolated it is from the weather. My last garage was 
>> attached and I finally was forced to move bikes into it as the family grew 
>> and I got too many bikes;  our newest house the garage has a thermostat 
>> controlled gas space heater and never gets too hot so bikes are fine, but 
>> most of our bikes are stored in an area in the house we call "the 
>> breezeway", it's temperature controlled and secured by the dogs who will 
>> bite the ankles off any potential thieves. ;-)
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Centerpulls vs. cantis

[Brian Campbell]

Try some older XT V-Brakes. A snap to set up, work great and pretty 
inexpensive.




On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:32:45 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> I don't like the canti brakes on my hunqapillar at all. The brake shudder 
> is so violent that it brings the front wheel off the ground.

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[RBW] Re: Is it crazy to do a century with Boscos?

[masmojo]

I don't think it's so much that you can't,  maybe just that you might not want 
to. I love my Boscos, but a bar that allows a more aero position might be 
easier/faster over that distance. It might not seem like a lot, but if you've 
been riding for 5 hours the prospect of shaving 10 or 15 minutes starts to seem 
pretty appealing.

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Ron Mc]

here it is Deac, a leather aviator's cap - it's really you  
https://www.hatcountry.com/bailey-granard-leather-aviator-cap.html

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:39:31 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I also wonder about the lovechild of a deerstalker and cycling cap.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Hugh Smitham]

I think that's a great point. I have a friend up in PDX and he has a garage
and still locks them up in the house. Apparently,  PDX has a bunch of bike
theft.
On Apr 5, 2016 6:10 PM, "masmojo"  wrote:

> Just my opinion,  but I would not put the Riv. In a detached garage in
> Oakland! I would put it in the house proper. Other bikes in the garage?
> Beaters? OK. Of course it sort of depends on the garage,  not only how
> secure,  but also how isolated it is from the weather. My last garage was
> attached and I finally was forced to move bikes into it as the family grew
> and I got too many bikes;  our newest house the garage has a thermostat
> controlled gas space heater and never gets too hot so bikes are fine, but
> most of our bikes are stored in an area in the house we call "the
> breezeway", it's temperature controlled and secured by the dogs who will
> bite the ankles off any potential thieves. ;-)
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[masmojo]

Just my opinion,  but I would not put the Riv. In a detached garage in Oakland! 
I would put it in the house proper. Other bikes in the garage? Beaters? OK. Of 
course it sort of depends on the garage,  not only how secure,  but also how 
isolated it is from the weather. My last garage was attached and I finally was 
forced to move bikes into it as the family grew and I got too many bikes;  our 
newest house the garage has a thermostat controlled gas space heater and never 
gets too hot so bikes are fine, but most of our bikes are stored in an area in 
the house we call "the breezeway", it's temperature controlled and secured by 
the dogs who will bite the ankles off any potential thieves. ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[William deRosset]

Dear Patrick, 

Not organic, but a military surplus booney hat fits your other criteria and 
comes in good sizes at a reasonable price. Get one in now-obsolete 
chocolate chip desert camo, and it won't be too hot in the sun. Wash it 
once in your soap of choice to get rid of all the pesticides

Tilley makes a bucket hat too. It would probably meet your needs once 
washed. I use their big-brim hats for field work.

Best,

Will

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 4:00:40 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Long story slightly shorter: I lose hats. Specifically, I remove hats on 
> bike rides for two reasons: fast descents when the front brim and wind do 
> not play nicely, and when I want sun and don’t need a sweat absorber on my 
> pate. The dilemma is where to put the blasted thing so it neither falls 
> off, nor becomes so misshapen as to be irksome to wear. So i”m on a quest 
> to find my ideal hat
>
> My ideal hat would be:
>
> — organic cotton
> — mesh band at the top for ventilation
> — retention strap
> — 2” brim, crushable yet able to retain shape. Good for sun and rain 
> coverage.
>
> So far my best contender is:
> http://connerhats.com/yellowstone-cotton-outdoor-hiking-hat.html
>
> Anyone got other ideas?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[William deRosset]

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:26:01 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Which model/s do they fit?


None from stock. You can find a set of RAIDs or at least a RAID yoke to 
bolt 'em on, but otherwise, it is a new paint job and torch work.

Best,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[William deRosset]

Dear Tim,

If they're squealing now after 100mi, and a short shot with a flat file on 
the pads to get a fresh surface + an alcohol wipe of the rim doesn't fix 
it, then no: The front brake will not stop squealing until it wears in the 
slop in the pivot bushing. And they are very, very loud. 

This won't take long, actually, as squeal (which is high-frequency brake 
shudder) wears pads dramatically. I can remember braking down one steep 
hill before I toed in a set of MAFAC competitions (which have more play in 
the pivots than the Compass Brakes typically do), and watching/smelling 
material fly off off the pad. My ears rang after that particular braking 
experience, and I took a crescent wrench to the arms to cold-set enough 
toe-in to offset the play shortly thereafter. They've been silent since.

Take a deep breath, grab a round file of the correct diameter (I think it 
is 1/4"), and file the washer with two indents in it to set the leading 
(TOE) edge of the brake in contact with the rim before the trailing edge. 
The amount you'll need to file will depend on how much angular play there 
is in the pivot, but the Compass pivots are pretty carefully matched to the 
brake bushings, and it shouldn't be much if the pivots are brazed 
accurately. The objective is to get the pad to contact the rim parallel 
under hard braking, when the rotation of the rim tends to take up the 
angular play in the bushing and press the heel of the pad into the rim 
before the toe. Start by setting the toe-in to a dime's width (put the dime 
under the heel of the pad, and file the inner contact point of the washer 
until the pad toe contacts the rim; alternatively, just use a crescent 
wrench to carefully cold-set (bend) the lower arm to achieve the necessary 
toe-in.

Good luck. My Compass brakes have been silent for a year now, and I haven't 
had to tinker with toe-in etc, but I am not using the lovely Compass pad 
holders nor their brake pads, as they were not supplied to me--they were 
out of stock, apparently. My MAFACs have all had a lot of play, and have 
required pretty heavy toe-in (with the exception of the Alex Singer, which 
was consistently silent) to prevent squeal and excessive pad wear. Braze-on 
pivots are a big step up, assuming they're very straight and placed 
properly.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:27:47 PM UTC-6, Tim wrote:
>
> Not to hijack the thread but...I just got my custom MAP with Compass 
> centerpulls and I have a question. Will the front break stop squealing like 
> a banshee after they break in a bit?!?!? I'm using them with HED Belgium 
> 650b rims (brand new). I've only been riding it about a week. Probably 
> around 100 miles. With light pressure there is no noise but with moderate 
> to hard pressure they squeal so loud that they turn heads. It's been like 
> that from the get go. It really kind of sucks. Any ideas?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saddles

[Ron Mc]

I'm also riding my B17 select on an upright bike.  Several thousand miles, 
and it's great.  I had a special before and could tell it was stretching on 
the upright in a few hundred miles.  My semi-upright moustache bar bike 
does great with a special.  

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:58:46 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> You wouldn't think that 2mm is significant, but my 17 Select is by far the 
> most comfortable saddle I've owned, and it was great brand new. Every time 
> I ride my regular 17s, it feels like there's something wrong with them. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[ted]

I experimented with a Raid front brake on my AHH, and experienced fairly 
persistent squeal. Jan writes that the Compass brakes stop squealing after 
a few rainy rides, but living in the SF area (ie rains almost never) I 
wasn't much comforted by that.  My impression is that both cantilevers and 
Raid/Compass brakes are quite sensitive to the orientation of the pads on 
the rim. Also that said orientation depends on how the brake is sitting on 
the post. To get things right I unhook the springs, pinch the brakes to the 
rim and put some forward rotation torque on the wheel. I get the pads 
square and tangent to the rim in that situation. Of course getting the toe 
in just right was a bit hit and miss. My approach involved taking a 
crescent wrench to the arm right below the pad holder. That sort of worked 
but I never got it just right. I was able to get it to work quietly for a 
bit but after a while the squeal would return. I eventually got a set of 
adjustable toe shoes from VO with which I have not had trouble with 
squealing. I wore out the pads that came with the shoes and replaced them 
with Yokozuna pads from RBW. Still no noise. I suspect that the thinner 
modern pads are less prone to squealing than the much thicker, and of 
course longer wearing, pads that Compass sells. Could be completely wrong 
about that though.
As Bill suggested its probably worth contacting Jan for advice.
Hope you can get yours sorted out. Must be very frustrating.

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 4:27:47 PM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> Not to hijack the thread but...I just got my custom MAP with Compass 
> centerpulls and I have a question. Will the front break stop squealing like 
> a banshee after they break in a bit?!?!? I'm using them with HED Belgium 
> 650b rims (brand new). I've only been riding it about a week. Probably 
> around 100 miles. With light pressure there is no noise but with moderate 
> to hard pressure they squeal so loud that they turn heads. It's been like 
> that from the get go. It really kind of sucks. Any ideas?

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Re: [RBW] Hat quest

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Steve. No helmet, but perhaps a bungee to my pipe would have a 
similar effect. Sardonic grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 4:57:29 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> Anyone got other ideas?
>
>
> Yes: put a helmet on top of that cap and it'll stay put.
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[John Phillips]

Ooops, sorry, I missed that you said you were using Albatross bars.

  My sit bones measure about the same as yours. On my Hunqapillar w/ 
albatross bars, Nitto lugged seatpost and saddle slid all the way back, I 
like the Berthoud Mente best (the Vars is the expensive titanium version of 
the Mente), and I have a Cambium C19 I want to try out this week. If if 
works, it will be my saddle for rainy, muddy rides. My sit bones like flat 
saddles best. I would like to try out one of the Ergon MTB saddles to see 
what they're like. 

John

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Re: [RBW] Hat quest

[rperks]

But what type of cain lube would he need to make it all work 
Synergistically?  And if he chose well would he be able to wear shoes 
without any side effects?

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 3:57:29 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 04/05/2016 06:00 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Long story slightly shorter: I lose hats. Specifically, I remove hats on 
> bike rides for two reasons: fast descents when the front brim and wind do 
> not play nicely, and when I want sun and don’t need a sweat absorber on my 
> pate. The dilemma is where to put the blasted thing so it neither falls 
> off, nor becomes so misshapen as to be irksome to wear. So i”m on a quest 
> to find my ideal hat 
>
> My ideal hat would be:
>
> — organic cotton
> — mesh band at the top for ventilation
> — retention strap
> — 2” brim, crushable yet able to retain shape. Good for sun and rain 
> coverage.
>
> So far my best contender is:
> http://connerhats.com/yellowstone-cotton-outdoor-hiking-hat.html
>
> Anyone got other ideas?
>
>
> Yes: put a helmet on top of that cap and it'll stay put.
>

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[RBW] Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Keith Muller]

Deflate the tire and wet down the bead of the tire with soapy water.  I find 
dawn dish soap works best.  Soapy water helps lubricate the tire bead so it 
will seat properly.

Keith

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Bill Lindsay]

Jan claims they are 'self-toeing' and quiet down after 'a few rides'.  I 
had M.A.F.A.C. Racer posts brazed onto a frameset as a low-cost test to see 
if I would prefer braze-on centerpulls for a hypothetical custom in the 
future.  They squeal like a banshee, and since I have several bikes, it's 
kind of hard to force myself through the break-in period.  Presumably Mitch 
has done lots of bikes with those brakes, so hopefully he can give you 
advice.  Jan maybe can give you advice as well.  I've heard of people 
filing the base washers as a way to achieve toe-in, but I'd be reluctant to 
do that until somebody definitively tells you that is the thing to do.  

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 4:27:47 PM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> Not to hijack the thread but...I just got my custom MAP with Compass 
> centerpulls and I have a question. Will the front break stop squealing like 
> a banshee after they break in a bit?!?!? I'm using them with HED Belgium 
> 650b rims (brand new). I've only been riding it about a week. Probably 
> around 100 miles. With light pressure there is no noise but with moderate 
> to hard pressure they squeal so loud that they turn heads. It's been like 
> that from the get go. It really kind of sucks. Any ideas?

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Re: [RBW] Centerpulls vs. cantis

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I don't like the canti brakes on my hunqapillar at all. The brake shudder is so 
violent that it brings the front wheel off the ground.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Not to hijack the thread but...I just got my custom MAP with Compass 
centerpulls and I have a question. Will the front break stop squealing like a 
banshee after they break in a bit?!?!? I'm using them with HED Belgium 650b 
rims (brand new). I've only been riding it about a week. Probably around 100 
miles. With light pressure there is no noise but with moderate to hard pressure 
they squeal so loud that they turn heads. It's been like that from the get go. 
It really kind of sucks. Any ideas?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saddles

[Joe Bernard]

You wouldn't think that 2mm is significant, but my 17 Select is by far the most 
comfortable saddle I've owned, and it was great brand new. Every time I ride my 
regular 17s, it feels like there's something wrong with them. 

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Re: [RBW] Hat quest

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/05/2016 06:00 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Long story slightly shorter: I lose hats. Specifically, I remove hats 
on bike rides for two reasons: fast descents when the front brim and 
wind do not play nicely, and when I want sun and don’t need a sweat 
absorber on my pate. The dilemma is where to put the blasted thing so 
it neither falls off, nor becomes so misshapen as to be irksome to 
wear. So i”m on a quest to find my ideal hat


My ideal hat would be:

— organic cotton
— mesh band at the top for ventilation
— retention strap
— 2” brim, crushable yet able to retain shape. Good for sun and rain 
coverage.


So far my best contender is:
http://connerhats.com/yellowstone-cotton-outdoor-hiking-hat.html

Anyone got other ideas?


Yes: put a helmet on top of that cap and it'll stay put.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 61 cm Atlantis complete

[Dave C]

Updated pictures 


On Sunday, April 3, 2016 at 7:04:17 PM UTC-7, Dave C wrote:
>
> I have placed this up twice for sale, only to back away because I always 
> came up with a reason to not complete the deed. If you are interested, rest 
> assured, I have already committed myself to another bike and will not 
> change my mind. Someday, I will probably buy another one in a 58 cm size, 
> which is better for my intended use (off-road touring). The 61 cm is fine 
> for road, but once I put on fatter tires, I do not have the necessary 
> clearance for comfort on rutted roads. 
>
> Click on this link 
> 
>  
> to see a folder of pictures (some of them are taken prior to the rebuild, 
> so they have the old bar tape)
> 61 cm Rivendell Atlantis (2004-era), $1900 without the saddle
> Peter White-built wheels, Mavic 719/Deore hubs
> Sugino XD crankset, triple, new out/middle ring (inner is not used much)
> Nitto Noodle bar, 46 cm
> Shimano 600 headset
> New chain/new cassette (12-34)
> Velo Orange Grand Cru seat post
> Shimano cantilever brakes
> Panaracer Pasela 35 mm, tires, lots of life left (I have some Avocet 
> FasGrips on it right now in the pics since I put the Paselas on my wife's 
> Romulus a couple weeks ago, I will be putting them back on) OR I can put on 
> some Serfas 2.1" knobby tires I use for the dirt roads we have around here)
> MKS RMX/Sneaker pedals
>
>
> The Atlantis frameset costs $2300 new, and you can buy a complete one for 
> about $3000-$4000. I am selling this decade-old Atlantis for $1900 without 
> the saddle. I recently had the bike completely rebuilt, with a new bottom 
> bracket, new outer/middle chainrings, new cassette, new chain, new cable 
> and housing, new KoolStop salmon pads, newly overhauled headset and hubs, 
> and new bar tape.
>
> Mine has been used and loved, and has some scratches (no dents). There are 
> some scratches from chainsuck on the drive side chain stay. I use the 
> Atlantis to pull a trailer, so I have some black electric tape on the 
> non-drive side stays to protect the paint when I clamp the trailer hitch on 
> the bike.
>
> I will include a full bottle of the appropriate Testor's hobby paint when 
> I ship the bike so you can touch up whatever you like. During the next few 
> days, I will be cleaning and polishing up the bike, so if I have time I'll 
> remove the cranks and do it myself, but I can't make any promises. When I 
> get home from work, my wife wants a break from kid duty, not watching me 
> doing another bike project :)
>
> Be sure to refer to Rivendell's sizing charts to see if this will fit you. 
> I am 5'11", with a PBH of about 87-88 cm. That's in the lowest range of fit 
> for this bike, and if you plan on running bigger tires you should have a 
> PBH of about 88 or more.
>
> If you buy this and want it shipped, I will have it professionally packed 
> for $45 and shipped for the least expensive option we can find (packing and 
> shipping at your cost). If you want to pick it up, I live in Southern 
> California and work out a meet-up, although you are welcome to visit our 
> beautiful town of Wrightwood in the eastern San Gabriels.
>
> One other note: if you have wanted an Atlantis but in a different color, 
> this would be a perfect opportunity because you could get this one much 
> cheaper than a new one, and pay for your favorite paint job and still come 
> out WAY ahead money-wise. At least, that's what I would do in a similar 
> situation.
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam in the Washington Post

[cyclotour...@gmail.com]

Could almost guarantee that without looking! :-) 

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 3:22:50 PM UTC-7, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> MG at chasing mailboxes http://chasingmailboxes.com 
> 
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:05:03 PM UTC-4, islaysteve wrote:
>>
>>
>> https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/capital-weather-gang/wp/2016/04/05/pm-update-another-frozen-night-before-a-modest-warm-up-on-wednesday-deadly-pakistan-flooding/
>>
>> Whose?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Deacon Patrick]

I also wonder about the lovechild of a deerstalker and cycling cap.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 4:00:40 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Long story slightly shorter: I lose hats. Specifically, I remove hats on 
> bike rides for two reasons: fast descents when the front brim and wind do 
> not play nicely, and when I want sun and don’t need a sweat absorber on my 
> pate. The dilemma is where to put the blasted thing so it neither falls 
> off, nor becomes so misshapen as to be irksome to wear. So i”m on a quest 
> to find my ideal hat
>
> My ideal hat would be:
>
> — organic cotton
> — mesh band at the top for ventilation
> — retention strap
> — 2” brim, crushable yet able to retain shape. Good for sun and rain 
> coverage.
>
> So far my best contender is:
> http://connerhats.com/yellowstone-cotton-outdoor-hiking-hat.html
>
> Anyone got other ideas?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Deacon Patrick]

I've been wearing Tilley, but they do not crush/stow well. 

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 4:15:52 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I thought you were a Tilley fan. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam in the Washington Post

[A CT Cyclist]

MG at chasing mailboxes http://chasingmailboxes.com 


On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:05:03 PM UTC-4, islaysteve wrote:
>
>
> https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/capital-weather-gang/wp/2016/04/05/pm-update-another-frozen-night-before-a-modest-warm-up-on-wednesday-deadly-pakistan-flooding/
>
> Whose?
>

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[RBW] Re: Hat quest

[Ron Mc]

I thought you were a Tilley fan.  they have a retention strap and stay put. 
 
In general, a good place to hunt for hats is hatcountry.com

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:00:40 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Long story slightly shorter: I lose hats. Specifically, I remove hats on 
> bike rides for two reasons: fast descents when the front brim and wind do 
> not play nicely, and when I want sun and don’t need a sweat absorber on my 
> pate. The dilemma is where to put the blasted thing so it neither falls 
> off, nor becomes so misshapen as to be irksome to wear. So i”m on a quest 
> to find my ideal hat
>
> My ideal hat would be:
>
> — organic cotton
> — mesh band at the top for ventilation
> — retention strap
> — 2” brim, crushable yet able to retain shape. Good for sun and rain 
> coverage.
>
> So far my best contender is:
> http://connerhats.com/yellowstone-cotton-outdoor-hiking-hat.html
>
> Anyone got other ideas?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[drew]

im no help with lumps, but otherwise how do you like the cazadero? do they 
actually measure smaller than 42?

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[RBW] Hat quest

[Deacon Patrick]

Long story slightly shorter: I lose hats. Specifically, I remove hats on bike 
rides for two reasons: fast descents when the front brim and wind do not play 
nicely, and when I want sun and don’t need a sweat absorber on my pate. The 
dilemma is where to put the blasted thing so it neither falls off, nor becomes 
so misshapen as to be irksome to wear. So i”m on a quest to find my ideal hat

My ideal hat would be:

— organic cotton
— mesh band at the top for ventilation
— retention strap
— 2” brim, crushable yet able to retain shape. Good for sun and rain coverage.

So far my best contender is:
http://connerhats.com/yellowstone-cotton-outdoor-hiking-hat.html

Anyone got other ideas?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.OurHolyConception.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org


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Re: [RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Deacon Patrick]

Och! Don't dismiss the hatchet so quickly, Hugh. It's amazing how many 
things a hatchet solves, applied properly, from slivers to amputations. 
Some require finesse, others brute force, others a combination in varying 
order. Though I find jobs that start out requiring finesse that end with 
ogre force are the least successful. Sardonic Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 3:27:20 PM UTC-6, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> Now Patrick I realize you like your Grandfors but there will be no hatchet 
> job.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saddles

[Ron Mc]

leather on select is 2mm thicker

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Re: [RBW] Re: Saddles

[Mark Reimer]

Wait... what is the difference between the select and the special? I
thought that was the same thing!

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 4:41 PM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> my all time favorite is the B17 select, Rivet second, B17 special 3rd.
>
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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[Ron Mc]

my all time favorite is the B17 select, Rivet second, B17 special 3rd.  

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[RBW] Re: Another Appaloosa Rider

[Cecily Walker]

I love the bike and am envious of Fluttershy.

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 10:02:35 PM UTC-7, Eunice Chang wrote:
>
> This one's named Athansor. A good, reliable, sturdy horse for new 
> beginnings and adventures :)
>
> Preliminary photos so far: (still thinking about how to build it up - 
> suggestions welcome!)
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/ejchang/albums/72157664228668683
>
> -E.
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Hugh Smitham]

Thanks Brian & Tim, I'll try another layer of rim tape and use soapy water.

Now Patrick I realize you like your Grandfors but there will be no hatchet
job.

Mark,  I'll pull the wheel and slide the tire and try it again. Thanks!
On Apr 5, 2016 1:56 PM, "Deacon Patrick"  wrote:

Gransfors Bruk hatchet?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:59:36 PM UTC-6, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> I have my cazaderos mounted front Pacenti PL 23 rim no problem ... and it
> has a hop to it.
>
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[RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Mark Reimer]

I had the identical thing happen with my Rock N Road rear tire. Nice 
prominent hop . I partially deflated and wrestled with the tire to get it 
to sit differently. Inflated it to the max psi, etc. There seemed to be no 
rhyme or reason to what made it sit properly, it just popped at one point 
and the hop was pretty much gone. That was on Dyad rims. Very frustrating 
for sure. Next time I'll be trying some talc powder on the tube and perhaps 
even some soap on the bead, though admittedly that makes me feel kinda 
nervous. 

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 3:56:32 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Gransfors Bruk hatchet?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:59:36 PM UTC-6, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>> I have my cazaderos mounted front Pacenti PL 23 rim no problem ... and it 
>> has a hop to it.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[fugd...@gmail.com]

Rivet. The rails are longer than the Brooks. And don't seem to break, like 
my Anatomica's. But it feels similar to the Anatomica.

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:41:44 AM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
> another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
>  
> HISTORY
> Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
> Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
> for sufficient width
> Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the B17. 
> Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
> Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
> Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
> used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
> the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
> the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
> back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
>  
> IDEAS
> Brooks B68 - no longer made
> Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
> Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
> and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
> Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jay
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Quickbeam in the Washington Post

[islaysteve]

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/capital-weather-gang/wp/2016/04/05/pm-update-another-frozen-night-before-a-modest-warm-up-on-wednesday-deadly-pakistan-flooding/

Whose?

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[RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Deacon Patrick]

Gransfors Bruk hatchet?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:59:36 PM UTC-6, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
> I have my cazaderos mounted front Pacenti PL 23 rim no problem ... and it 
> has a hop to it.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Tim Gavin]

Synergy rims have a deep well that can make tire seating difficult.  It's
the rim, not the tube.

Brian suggests a thicker rim strip to build up the well.  That's a good
start.

I also suggest lubing the bead of the tire with something (I use liquid
soap) to help it slip.

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 3:08 PM, Brian Campbell 
wrote:

> Did you add an extra layer of rim strip to help with seat the bead? I
> think some folks do that.
>
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[RBW] Re: Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Brian Campbell]

Did you add an extra layer of rim strip to help with seat the bead? I think 
some folks do that. 

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[RBW] Cazadero lumpy bumpy

[Hugh Smitham]

I have my cazaderos mounted front Pacenti PL 23 rim no problem other than 
hell to initially mount. Rear mounted on a Velocity Synergy rim and it has 
a hop to it. I checked the rim against a fixed point and it's true. I can 
notice the bump and feel it while riding and it's really annoying. I've 
pumped the tube and tire up to 100 psi but the tire is seated. All I can 
assume it must be the tube I'm using. Perhaps too large so there's extra 
mass? Any experiences out there? I've used 26" tubes and "650b" tubes with 
the same outcome.

~Hugh
  Los Angeles, CA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brand-new, in package Phil Wood 36h rear hub

[Mark Reimer]

Hub sold pending payment

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:07:57 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Ryan, I can offer you a very affordable shipping service :)
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>
>> Now you tell me this :)
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:22:01 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> For Sale:
>>>
>>> I have a brand new Phil Wood 135mm spaced rear hub. It is their newest 
>>> 11-speed compatible hub, which can also run 8, 9, 10 cassettes with a 
>>> spacer.
>>>
>>> The hub is a disc hub, but can also be used on rim brakes. I've been 
>>> doing this for years as it 'future proofs' the wheels and allows me to run 
>>> the same wheels on both disc/rim-brake bikes. 
>>>
>>> Many of you will have read about the issues I had with Phil Wood pawls 
>>> sticking in the cold weather. Phil Wood has been fantastic with their 
>>> efforts to solve this problem. In my experience, the older Phil Wood 
>>> freehub mechanism wasn't reliable below -10 celsius unless you replaced the 
>>> thicker pawl grease with a lighter oil (14F). 
>>>
>>> This hub was sent to me as a warranty replacement from Phil Wood after a 
>>> sticky pawl became damaged. It's their newest freehub design, with an axle 
>>> and pawl mechanism that is supposedly a refined version from the one I was 
>>> running. It certainly feels much smoother when I turn it by hand than the 
>>> one I sent back. 
>>>
>>> Phil Wood has a reputation for being so overbuilt they outlive their 
>>> owners. While I haven't tested this newest hub in freezing temps, I have no 
>>> doubts this hub would exceed the expectations of anyone living in a more 
>>> mild climate. Truthfully I'd love to hang on to this hub despite the cold 
>>> weather problems I had last winter, but simply can't afford to hang on to 
>>> it at this time. 
>>>
>>> New price is $430 USD. Riv group price for $360 USD. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Lungimsam]

Once I saw an Atlantis with fenders and non-adjustable rack in my LBS.

I saw all the open space between the tire and fork crown and thought how easy 
it must be to mount fenders and non-adjustable rack on a canti-bike.

This after installing vo rando rack and honjos on a sidepull bike.

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[RBW] green hillborne?

[Mattt]

Dan

I believe that is the original Sam color or first iteration of colors.

Matt

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[RBW] Re: green hillborne?

[Justin August]

I believe that's from the very original run of Sams.

-Justin

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:16:56 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> spotted this lovely Sam.  Haven't seen this color before, what year(s) was 
> this color available? 
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/5524879320.html
>

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[RBW] green hillborne?

[Daniel D.]

spotted this lovely Sam.  Haven't seen this color before, what year(s) was 
this color available? 
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/5524879320.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Justin August]

A few years ago when I inquired about Paul Racer braze-ons on a Hilsen I 
was told "no" by Riv due to fork/seatstay thickness issues. Since they have 
hinted at being willing to do cantis on Hilsen frames that seems to have 
changed. Perhaps they changed tubing specs or got similar tubing with less 
manufacturer restrictions. Perhaps now you could ask to have Paul or 
Compass braze-ons. Someone should check.

-Justin

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:51:14 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 04/05/2016 10:15 AM, William R. wrote: 
> > There are many more knowing members here who can correct me if I'm 
> > wrong... But, I'm fairly sure that none of the stock Rivs are 
> > compatible with the Compass centerpulls. 
>
> Not without having a frame builder braze the posts on, no. 
>
>
> > With that said, I'm sure you could have any of the Waterford built 
> > Rivs: Hilsen, Roadeo and Atlantis (or a custom) built with the Compass 
> > centerpull posts in the position that they require to install the 
> > brakes. Riv would need to be willing to do it of course. 
>
> I doubt very much you could get that kind of custom work on a stock 
> model like the Hilsen, Atlantis or Roadeo.  Part of the economies of 
> scale that keep the prices on these stock frames below one-off customs 
> is the standardization and possibility of batch mode production, and no 
> way is that compatible with custom mounting of unique brake braze-ons.   
> However, any knowledgeable frame builder could do it.  It would cost 
> you, though, because not only do you have to remove the old canti posts 
> and braze new ones on for the centerpull brakes, you also would have to 
> repaint the frame. 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/05/2016 11:21 AM, Kieran J wrote:
I think it's fair to say that the Compass brakes are almost 
exclusively geared towards custom frames.


True, because they don't include the backing plate, and so are intended 
for braze-on use only.  However, as has been noted before, frame 
builders who have installed brazed on Mafac RAIDs may have some of those 
backing plates available, just sitting around in their shops.  When this 
came up on the iBOB list a few months ago, someone responded with a set 
in moments.


But if you're looking for a bolt-on centerpull for use with 650B wheels, 
I suggest you go for a set of Mafac RAIDs.  Thanks to the Compass 
brakes' availability, the price of RAIDs on ebay has stabilized.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 04/05/2016 10:15 AM, William R. wrote:
There are many more knowing members here who can correct me if I'm 
wrong... But, I'm fairly sure that none of the stock Rivs are 
compatible with the Compass centerpulls.


Not without having a frame builder braze the posts on, no.


With that said, I'm sure you could have any of the Waterford built 
Rivs: Hilsen, Roadeo and Atlantis (or a custom) built with the Compass 
centerpull posts in the position that they require to install the 
brakes. Riv would need to be willing to do it of course.


I doubt very much you could get that kind of custom work on a stock 
model like the Hilsen, Atlantis or Roadeo.  Part of the economies of 
scale that keep the prices on these stock frames below one-off customs 
is the standardization and possibility of batch mode production, and no 
way is that compatible with custom mounting of unique brake braze-ons.  
However, any knowledgeable frame builder could do it.  It would cost 
you, though, because not only do you have to remove the old canti posts 
and braze new ones on for the centerpull brakes, you also would have to 
repaint the frame.



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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[Mark Reimer]

Ever try the B17 special? 

Here's what I've tried:

Brooks Swift: Comfy when you're in a tucked aero position riding hard. 
Otherwise n thanks
Brooks B17 Narrow: Hard as a rock and too narrow
Brooks B17: Better, but still pretty hard. Maybe it would break in after a 
long, long time? 
Brooks B17S: AH. Butt nirvana. Fast break-in and all-day comfort
Brooks C17: Interesting... better than the regular B17, but not as good as 
the special. Comfortable in regular clothes for extended rides, love the 
weather proof aspect, but doesn't quite have that deluxe, plush B17 Special 
feel. 


For what it's worth, I've heard a ton of positive reviews of the touring 
Berthoud saddles. My Dad has two of them, I've been meaning to borrow one 
soon to compare. They certainly look to be built to a higher standard than 
Brooks. 

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:40:17 PM UTC-5, John Phillips wrote:
>
> What's your handle bar set up?
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:41:44 AM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>>
>> Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
>> another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
>>  
>> HISTORY
>> Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
>> Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
>> for sufficient width
>> Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the 
>> B17. Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
>> Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
>> Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
>> used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
>> the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
>> the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
>> back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
>>  
>> IDEAS
>> Brooks B68 - no longer made
>> Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
>> Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
>> and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
>> Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
>>  
>> What say you wise folks?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>> Jay
>>  
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Mark Reimer]

Of course there is Ryan, aesthetics!! Post-mounted centre pulls are the 
epitome of bike bling 


On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:00:20 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Hi Shoji...you're right...those Paul folks think of everything...I'm 
> getting the center mount on my mixte...I live in the flatlands and  I feel 
> there is no real functional   advantage to me to get braze-on mounted 
> centerpulls
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:16:34 PM UTC-5, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>>
>> +1 for Shimano CX70 cantilever brakes. I have 'em on my Hunqapillar, 
>> swapping out Tektro CR720s. CX70 are easier to set up and stop the bike 
>> quicker (when I want that feature). I used standard straddle cables instead 
>> of the quicklink(?). 
>>
>> Paul centerpulls are available for center mount (i.e., no special braze 
>> on required) or braze-on mount. Ocean Air Cycles's Rambler uses the Paul 
>> braze-on mounted centerpulls. 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:01:55 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>>
>>> If you're going for cantis I think you won't do much better than 
>>> these...they work great
>>>
>>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm 
>>>
>>> For centerpulls...those old Mafac Racers are excellent brakes and no 
>>> braze-ons required;  Paul centerpulls don't need braze-ons either as far as 
>>> I know
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:11:45 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:

 Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if 
 anyone here uses them on their Rivs.

 I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a 
 compelling reason to go with cpulls.

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Lungimsam]

Almost makes you want to stick to 70's steel beater craigslist road bikes. But 
now I wouldnt  buy unless original owner with receipt.
I almost bought a Bstone 400 ftom a guy with receipt. But I waited and got a 
Rivbike.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Tim Gavin]

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 1:08 PM, Bob B  wrote:

> On the other hand, I'm guessing that I'll do more riding with *this sort
> of setup*
>  (I
> *love* this setup aesthetically, with the lamp nestled just near the
> basket), while only needing to mount a lowrider component periodically for
> longer trips.
>

If you're going to mount a medium Wald basket, you could just attach the
light to the basket itself with some common household hardware.  This post
shows an install:
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/Vc2jmY7QjwI/hhhDMf3qufYJ

I agree that the possibility of removing the Campee Classic lowriders does
make the rack more versatile.  And, the "naked" rack has very attractive
lines, obviously inspired by constructeur racks.

I also agree that the Seattle Sports panniers seem like a viable "budget
Ortlieb".  I have a pair of larger Vaude panniers that are similarly
well-designed but value-priced.



>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 8:02:16 AM UTC-7, Bob B wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi, all.
>>>
>>> I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack
>>>  for
>>> a new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the
>>> removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run
>>> a Luxos-B , which
>>> Riv recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light
>>> throw. The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a
>>> light mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of
>>> the Campee rack?
>>>
>>> My panniers are Seattle Sports
>>>  Rain
>>> Riders (btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well
>>> on Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd
>>> just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another
>>> nice, versatile setup...
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brand-new, in package Phil Wood 36h rear hub

[Mark Reimer]

Ryan, I can offer you a very affordable shipping service :)

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Now you tell me this :)
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:22:01 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> For Sale:
>>
>> I have a brand new Phil Wood 135mm spaced rear hub. It is their newest 
>> 11-speed compatible hub, which can also run 8, 9, 10 cassettes with a 
>> spacer.
>>
>> The hub is a disc hub, but can also be used on rim brakes. I've been 
>> doing this for years as it 'future proofs' the wheels and allows me to run 
>> the same wheels on both disc/rim-brake bikes. 
>>
>> Many of you will have read about the issues I had with Phil Wood pawls 
>> sticking in the cold weather. Phil Wood has been fantastic with their 
>> efforts to solve this problem. In my experience, the older Phil Wood 
>> freehub mechanism wasn't reliable below -10 celsius unless you replaced the 
>> thicker pawl grease with a lighter oil (14F). 
>>
>> This hub was sent to me as a warranty replacement from Phil Wood after a 
>> sticky pawl became damaged. It's their newest freehub design, with an axle 
>> and pawl mechanism that is supposedly a refined version from the one I was 
>> running. It certainly feels much smoother when I turn it by hand than the 
>> one I sent back. 
>>
>> Phil Wood has a reputation for being so overbuilt they outlive their 
>> owners. While I haven't tested this newest hub in freezing temps, I have no 
>> doubts this hub would exceed the expectations of anyone living in a more 
>> mild climate. Truthfully I'd love to hang on to this hub despite the cold 
>> weather problems I had last winter, but simply can't afford to hang on to 
>> it at this time. 
>>
>> New price is $430 USD. Riv group price for $360 USD. 
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Bob B]

*Bill:* I was hoping you'd have something to say! I agree with you about 
the bike being an integrated whole, and that's part of my hesitation to use 
a separate Tubus lowrider. On the other hand, I'm guessing that I'll do 
more riding with *this sort of setup* 
 (I 
*love* this setup aesthetically, with the lamp nestled just near the 
basket), while only needing to mount a lowrider component periodically for 
longer trips. Hence wanting to find a center-mount solution to the Campee 
rack so I can  have the best of both worlds... alas...

*Shoji and John:* Thanks! On to something here, could side-mount but find a 
way to extend the lamp itself more towards the front of the bike to avoid 
the wheel shadow.

*Tim:* I use them on a Tubus (10mm). Because of the flexibility and 
"spongey"-snap action of the hooks, my guess is they'd mount just as well 
on Nitto racks. Seems like you're already set, but you cannot beat the 
price of those Seattle Sports panniers! They're like paired-down Ortliebs, 
which I kinda like anyway.



On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:48:42 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Glass half-full comment:
>
> I think this rack give you a great opportunity to think of your bike as an 
> integrated whole, not as a mishmash of parts that you bolt together.  
>
> Glass half-empty comment:
>
> Why doesn't anything fit together the way I want!?  
>
> I have two of that front rack.  The detachable lowriders are very wide and 
> very short in height.  My adjustable Ortliebs did not fit well on them, and 
> dangled way too low to the ground for my comfort.  Very Very few pannier 
> makers make a bag that fits that rectangular lowrider well.  I'm kind of 
> surprised by how bad it is.  There is the excellent Berthoud GC372, for 
> $515 a pair, and there is the Ostrich DLX.  Everything else is kind of a 
> hack.  Will it work?  Maybe.  Will it work well?  That's up to you.  Will 
> it work like they were made for each other, as an integrated whole?  No. 
>  So, I bought a pair of Ostrich DLX panniers from Japan, and I'll probably 
> have Ruthworks make me another pair, custom.  If some bag manufacturer 
> decides to make a bag for that rack, that will be great, but those are the 
> only two that are out there now, that I know of.  
>
> I recommend using the light on the side and being happy with that.  It 
> works great, looks great, and looks more integrated, and leaves the flat 
> top platform clear for you to use it for other loads.  
>
> I'll look for photos of my Campee lowrider setup.  I really like the 
> setup, but it is my opinion that most panniers are not optimal for that 
> rack.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito CA
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 8:02:16 AM UTC-7, Bob B wrote:
>>
>> Hi, all.
>>
>> I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack 
>>  for 
>> a new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the 
>> removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run 
>> a Luxos-B , which 
>> Riv recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light 
>> throw. The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a 
>> light mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?
>>
>> I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of 
>> the Campee rack?
>>
>> My panniers are Seattle Sports 
>>  Rain 
>> Riders (btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well 
>> on Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd 
>> just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another 
>> nice, versatile setup...
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Tim Gavin]

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
> I have two of that front rack.  The detachable lowriders are very wide and 
> very short in height.  My adjustable Ortliebs did not fit well on them, and 
> dangled way too low to the ground for my comfort.  Very Very few pannier 
> makers make a bag that fits that rectangular lowrider well.  I'm kind of 
> surprised by how bad it is.  ... 
>
If some bag manufacturer decides to make a bag for that rack, that will be 
> great, but those are the only two that are out there now, that I know of.  
>
>>
>>
FYI, I used Ortlieb Sport Packer Plus panniers, which are their smaller 
sized bags intended for front loading.  They hung closer to the ground than 
intended, I'm sure, but I still had more than 6" of clearance under each 
bag. 
A taller bag (designed for rear racks) would definitely hang too low.

Bob B's Seattle Sports panniers are only  12" high, so they should fit 
fine.  Their 12 inch width should be just about enough so that the wide 
lowrider frame should barely show on either side.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Hugh Smitham]

Yeah it's an important call to make.
On Apr 5, 2016 11:04 AM, "Lungimsam"  wrote:

> My insurance co. says it is a 1,000$US deductable for bike
> theftwhoah
>
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[RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Lungimsam]

My insurance co. says it is a 1,000$US deductable for bike theftwhoah

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[RBW] Re: FS: Brand-new, in package Phil Wood 36h rear hub

[Ryan Fleming]

Now you tell me this :)

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:22:01 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> For Sale:
>
> I have a brand new Phil Wood 135mm spaced rear hub. It is their newest 
> 11-speed compatible hub, which can also run 8, 9, 10 cassettes with a 
> spacer.
>
> The hub is a disc hub, but can also be used on rim brakes. I've been doing 
> this for years as it 'future proofs' the wheels and allows me to run the 
> same wheels on both disc/rim-brake bikes. 
>
> Many of you will have read about the issues I had with Phil Wood pawls 
> sticking in the cold weather. Phil Wood has been fantastic with their 
> efforts to solve this problem. In my experience, the older Phil Wood 
> freehub mechanism wasn't reliable below -10 celsius unless you replaced the 
> thicker pawl grease with a lighter oil (14F). 
>
> This hub was sent to me as a warranty replacement from Phil Wood after a 
> sticky pawl became damaged. It's their newest freehub design, with an axle 
> and pawl mechanism that is supposedly a refined version from the one I was 
> running. It certainly feels much smoother when I turn it by hand than the 
> one I sent back. 
>
> Phil Wood has a reputation for being so overbuilt they outlive their 
> owners. While I haven't tested this newest hub in freezing temps, I have no 
> doubts this hub would exceed the expectations of anyone living in a more 
> mild climate. Truthfully I'd love to hang on to this hub despite the cold 
> weather problems I had last winter, but simply can't afford to hang on to 
> it at this time. 
>
> New price is $430 USD. Riv group price for $360 USD. 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Ryan Fleming]

Hi Shoji...you're right...those Paul folks think of everything...I'm 
getting the center mount on my mixte...I live in the flatlands and  I feel 
there is no real functional   advantage to me to get braze-on mounted 
centerpulls

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:16:34 PM UTC-5, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> +1 for Shimano CX70 cantilever brakes. I have 'em on my Hunqapillar, 
> swapping out Tektro CR720s. CX70 are easier to set up and stop the bike 
> quicker (when I want that feature). I used standard straddle cables instead 
> of the quicklink(?). 
>
> Paul centerpulls are available for center mount (i.e., no special braze on 
> required) or braze-on mount. Ocean Air Cycles's Rambler uses the Paul 
> braze-on mounted centerpulls. 
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:01:55 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>
>> If you're going for cantis I think you won't do much better than 
>> these...they work great
>>
>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm 
>>
>> For centerpulls...those old Mafac Racers are excellent brakes and no 
>> braze-ons required;  Paul centerpulls don't need braze-ons either as far as 
>> I know
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:11:45 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>>>
>>> Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if 
>>> anyone here uses them on their Rivs.
>>>
>>> I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a 
>>> compelling reason to go with cpulls.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Hugh Smitham]

Hi Justin,

As usual late to the party. And a big congratulations on your 
homeownership! It's a big step and in your market perhaps monumental. On 
bike security et al.  

Late in 2013 we had our home broken into and the thieves weren't looking 
for bikes, they stole my laptop and a bunch of my wife's jewelry plus my 
watches and a golden Om necklace. If my bikes had been stolen you'd have 
heard my man cry across the interwebs. 

The whole experience really got me into the action of securing our home so 
here's what I did. We installed an alarm system and have the sign out 
front. A bummer but I think valid, you make your home less attractive to 
the thieves so they move on to your neighbor's home ( thieves are lazy and 
want to get in and out quick) which may be more inviting. So you've handled 
that part. On the garage we have a side door so I installed a security door 
and have a latch bolt hasp on the garage door which I reinforced and 
installed a lock like this on the garage 
door. http://www.masterlock.com/business-use/product/7047. 

We don't park our cars at this time in the garage so I really never open 
the garage door. My wife believes working in the garage with the garage 
door open displays all that you have to would be thieves so don't leave it 
open and reduce the temptation. I personally don't lock the bikes together 
inside the garage, perhaps I should. I also think others have mentioned 
excellent advice,  fake camera outside, a quick lock through all the bikes, 
recording the bikes serial #'s and pictures all good ideas.

I can't convey just how horrible it feels to have your home invaded by a 
stranger! It's unnerving and does not fade quickly. If your wife has 
jewlery I suggest you purchase a small safe and bolt it to the foundation. 
Also most homeowner insurance doesn't cover jewelry so an additional policy 
is required. I would inquire about your policies coverage regarding 
bicycles as well. 

What I've come to realize is that no matter what you do if someone wants 
what you have they'll find a way. Which leads me to Garth's comments. I 
think he means well but he get's abstract and proselytizes some or a lot. 
Personally I think he's just saying that bikes are transitory objects and 
as such the notion of ownership is an illusion. Frankly, that idea is what 
helped us through the losses we sustained. That said, it's my wish you 
don't need to experience a loss cause it stinks.

Best Regards,

~Hugh
  Los Angeles, CA

On Sunday, April 3, 2016 at 8:31:58 PM UTC-7, Justin August wrote:
>
> Hey folks-
> Assuming everything goes according to plan I'm entering the wild world of 
> home ownership at the end of this month! Our bungalow in East Oakland has a 
> detached 1 car garage where he bikes will probably live. I'm wondering the 
> best way to secure them. The garage only has a car door, no man door. 
>
> Any suggestions would be welcomed. 
>
> Bikes:
> Saluki (mine)
> Betty Foy (wife's)
>
> -Justin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Bill Lindsay]

Glass half-full comment:

I think this rack give you a great opportunity to think of your bike as an 
integrated whole, not as a mishmash of parts that you bolt together.  

Glass half-empty comment:

Why doesn't anything fit together the way I want!?  

I have two of that front rack.  The detachable lowriders are very wide and 
very short in height.  My adjustable Ortliebs did not fit well on them, and 
dangled way too low to the ground for my comfort.  Very Very few pannier 
makers make a bag that fits that rectangular lowrider well.  I'm kind of 
surprised by how bad it is.  There is the excellent Berthoud GC372, for 
$515 a pair, and there is the Ostrich DLX.  Everything else is kind of a 
hack.  Will it work?  Maybe.  Will it work well?  That's up to you.  Will 
it work like they were made for each other, as an integrated whole?  No. 
 So, I bought a pair of Ostrich DLX panniers from Japan, and I'll probably 
have Ruthworks make me another pair, custom.  If some bag manufacturer 
decides to make a bag for that rack, that will be great, but those are the 
only two that are out there now, that I know of.  

I recommend using the light on the side and being happy with that.  It 
works great, looks great, and looks more integrated, and leaves the flat 
top platform clear for you to use it for other loads.  

I'll look for photos of my Campee lowrider setup.  I really like the setup, 
but it is my opinion that most panniers are not optimal for that rack.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito CA



On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 8:02:16 AM UTC-7, Bob B wrote:
>
> Hi, all.
>
> I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack 
>  for a 
> new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the 
> removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run 
> a Luxos-B , which 
> Riv recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light 
> throw. The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a 
> light mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?
>
> I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of the 
> Campee rack?
>
> My panniers are Seattle Sports 
>  Rain Riders 
> (btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well on 
> Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd 
> just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another 
> nice, versatile setup...
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[John Phillips]

What's your handle bar set up?

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 7:41:44 AM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
> another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
>  
> HISTORY
> Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
> Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
> for sufficient width
> Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the B17. 
> Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
> Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
> Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
> used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
> the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
> the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
> back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
>  
> IDEAS
> Brooks B68 - no longer made
> Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
> Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
> and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
> Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jay
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Garth]

Look at BQ as a "magazine" in support of their preferences for bikes. 
So of course they are going to sell what suits their preferences, just like 
Riv and every other manufacturer, seller etc. does. It's natural to do 
this. So of course what's written is going be about why they prefer what 
they do, here is our preference in action (evidence) in words and pictures 
to support our identity. 

  Alright, great. These are just one way though, one set of preferences. 
Yea, nay ... so what ?  what say I ? Intelligence is universal, it belongs 
to one, any more than air. What I prefer is as important what you think and 
anyone can prefer. 

  I'm not saying anything you don't already know , I couldn't. 


Me, I like "old school" canti's, the ones with the smooth post.  Some may 
consider these hard to adjust, I consider them the easiest . I've always 
found them simple since I first used them back in the early 80's.  Canti 
posts are not always in the exact same position on all bikes though. Think 
about it, every bike has different fork blade and seat stay widths. I love 
Suntour XC Pro canti's on one bike that has narrower mount widths and it's 
the best setup I've ever encountered myself. The same brakes on the 
Bombadil with a much wider mount width these brakes are just geometrically 
"poor", the best way I can describe it. The can't be set up in the same 
optimal position as my other bike due to the low profile shape of the arms. 
No biggie, I use another brake , and mid-wide profile Shimano from the 
early 80's. Purrfect . 

 So no matter the bike there is a great brake for it. If one doesn't seem 
"right" it doesn't limit you as there are many others. I prefer the ones 
from 80's 90's myself and have spent at most $20 on them :)  One man's 
trash is another's treasure :)   



On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 12:11:45 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if anyone 
> here uses them on their Rivs.
>
> I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a 
> compelling reason to go with cpulls.
>

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[RBW] FS: Brand-new, in package Phil Wood 36h rear hub

[Mark Reimer]

For Sale:

I have a brand new Phil Wood 135mm spaced rear hub. It is their newest 
11-speed compatible hub, which can also run 8, 9, 10 cassettes with a 
spacer.

The hub is a disc hub, but can also be used on rim brakes. I've been doing 
this for years as it 'future proofs' the wheels and allows me to run the 
same wheels on both disc/rim-brake bikes. 

Many of you will have read about the issues I had with Phil Wood pawls 
sticking in the cold weather. Phil Wood has been fantastic with their 
efforts to solve this problem. In my experience, the older Phil Wood 
freehub mechanism wasn't reliable below -10 celsius unless you replaced the 
thicker pawl grease with a lighter oil (14F). 

This hub was sent to me as a warranty replacement from Phil Wood after a 
sticky pawl became damaged. It's their newest freehub design, with an axle 
and pawl mechanism that is supposedly a refined version from the one I was 
running. It certainly feels much smoother when I turn it by hand than the 
one I sent back. 

Phil Wood has a reputation for being so overbuilt they outlive their 
owners. While I haven't tested this newest hub in freezing temps, I have no 
doubts this hub would exceed the expectations of anyone living in a more 
mild climate. Truthfully I'd love to hang on to this hub despite the cold 
weather problems I had last winter, but simply can't afford to hang on to 
it at this time. 

New price is $430 USD. Riv group price for $360 USD. 








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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Shoji Takahashi]

+1 for Shimano CX70 cantilever brakes. I have 'em on my Hunqapillar, 
swapping out Tektro CR720s. CX70 are easier to set up and stop the bike 
quicker (when I want that feature). I used standard straddle cables instead 
of the quicklink(?). 

Paul centerpulls are available for center mount (i.e., no special braze on 
required) or braze-on mount. Ocean Air Cycles's Rambler uses the Paul 
braze-on mounted centerpulls. 




On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 1:01:55 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> If you're going for cantis I think you won't do much better than 
> these...they work great
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm 
>
> For centerpulls...those old Mafac Racers are excellent brakes and no 
> braze-ons required;  Paul centerpulls don't need braze-ons either as far as 
> I know
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:11:45 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if 
>> anyone here uses them on their Rivs.
>>
>> I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a 
>> compelling reason to go with cpulls.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Ryan Fleming]

If you're going for cantis I think you won't do much better than 
these...they work great

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm 

For centerpulls...those old Mafac Racers are excellent brakes and no 
braze-ons required;  Paul centerpulls don't need braze-ons either as far as 
I know

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:11:45 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if anyone 
> here uses them on their Rivs.
>
> I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a 
> compelling reason to go with cpulls.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Lungimsam]

I dont know about the shock thing.
Some thief might try to sue you if he gets hurt.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Eric Norris]

If you want to get a feel for what the Compass brakes are like, find a set of 
Mafac Racers, which were the inspiration for the Compass model (many parts are 
interchangeable). The Racers come in a version that will mount to pretty much 
any Riv frame. 

I have Racers on two bikes, and like them a lot. Alex Singer used the braze-on 
version on many of their bikes, which is itself a testament to their quality. 

–Eric N


> On Apr 5, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Lungimsam  wrote:
> 
> Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if anyone 
> here uses them on their Rivs.
> 
> I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a compelling 
> reason to go with cpulls.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Tim Gavin]

Thanks for clarifying, I understand now.  The upper hooks have a snap-click
type of tension.  Do they have different hooks for different tubing sizes?
  Tubus uses 10 mm rails, while Nitto uses 9 mm, for example.

I picked up a 4-pack of Ortliebs last year from a listmember.  I'm very
impressed with the quality of the bags and the ease of their attachment.
They provide different clip inserts for 10 and 9 mm tubing.

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 10:55 AM, Bob B  wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Thanks for the note. I thought Tubus might have something. It's also good
> to know about the weight difference.
>
> RE: your question about the Seattle Sports panniers: They've never bounced
> free. The panniers have a bit of flex to them, so as you mount them you can
> kinda twist the pannier so that the toggle hook gets around a rack tube.
> You just have to set up the pannier so that the lower toggle hook is in the
> right place, at the right angle. You can tighten it so it keeps a fixed
> position. The upper hooks kind of "snap" (but in a spongey kind of way)
> over the top of the rack. The combination is actually very stable and
> secure, and not at all noisy. I use two for big trips and one daily for
> commuting. I dismount and re-mount that pannier almost every day, and I've
> had them for 8 years or so. I believe the company will replace hooks if you
> break them, but that hasn't happened to me.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:31:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>> With the Campee Classic:
>>
>> I think you could use a long centerpull brake arm (or any of the
>> currently-marketed adapters) to raise the light quite a bit from the strut
>> eyelets.
>>
>> You could also mount the light on the handlebar, if you're not planning
>> on putting a large bag or basket on the top rack platform.
>>
>>
>> But the Campee Classic is heavier than a separate Mini  Front rack and
>> lowriders.  Personally, I'd recommend a Tubus Tara underneath a Mini Front.
>> I used a Campee Classic on my Riv Road/650b on last year's RAGBRAI.
>> Since then, I've changed it out for a Mini Front, holding a Banzer/Treetop
>> rando bag and a Luxos U out front.  I'll add a Tara when I want to add
>> panniers.
>>
>>
>> With those Seattle Sports panniers, how do they lock to the rack?  I can
>> see that they have J-hooks up top and some kind of toggle hook down low.
>> Do you twist that toggle hook thing to jam it against a rack tube?  I don't
>> understand how these panniers don't bounce themselves free.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Tim
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 10:02 AM, Robert  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, all.
>>>
>>> I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack
>>>  for
>>> a new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the
>>> removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run
>>> a Luxos-B , which
>>> Riv recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light
>>> throw. The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a
>>> light mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of
>>> the Campee rack?
>>>
>>> My panniers are Seattle Sports
>>>  Rain
>>> Riders (btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well
>>> on Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd
>>> just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another
>>> nice, versatile setup...
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>
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For more 

Re: [RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Ryan Fleming]

+1 on  Mark R.s practice..I'm a renter and I do lock up my non-Rivs 
together to a really old heavy refectory table (took the one drawer out) 
with a buncha tools and stuff, through a moving dolly with miscellaneous 
cable and U-locks...it's called spaghetti security. The rivendells I schlep 
upstairs...we live in a duplex. We have a garage with a side door and the 
infamous automatic garage doors which, we've noticed, don't work flawlessly 
every time...sometimes they've closed and then re-opened and I've heard 
about this nasty practice  of hijacking your signal on your remote. 
Spaghetti security has served me well for 8 years, but I really don't like 
to leave my rivs in the garage...people have tried breaking in a couple of 
times

On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 1:38:18 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Yeah, that's what I meant!
>
> One other super cheap and questionably effective suggestion...
>
> Two guys I know leave a light and radio on at all times. Just loud enough 
> to hear through the door. I guess the thinking is that a would-be thief 
> might be duped into thinking someone is working in the garage. So long as 
> they don't come back over and over and catch on, it's a pretty good 
> suggestion. 
>
> On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 1:28:46 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>>
>> If what I'm hearing from Mark is correct then I wholeheartedly agree: buy 
>> more bikes and lock them all together to make it hard to remove the bike! I 
>> think that is the n+5 rule. 
>>
>> Congrats on the homeownership! I hope to be there too one day, my bike 
>> storage solution now is creative, to say the least, for a 900 sq ft house 
>> with no garage. If I ever make it back to a place with a garage I was 
>> thinking of going the anchor bolt and chain route. 
>>
>> On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 11:10:29 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Congratulations on the new home! I'm hoping to get my membership card to 
>>> this illusive club in the not too distant future myself. As such, bike 
>>> storage and security has been on my mind as well. 
>>>
>>> I know too many friends who've had their bikes ripped off from their 
>>> garages. Not having a man-door is a great start. Do you have any windows? 
>>> I'd bar them for sure, though that's probably obvious. The next thing is 
>>> securing the car door. I'm guessing if you don't have a man door, you 
>>> probably can't lock the car door to the ground from the inside hey... Hmm. 
>>> Interesting challenge. 
>>>
>>> I live in an apartment and for a while kept all my cheaper bikes in my 
>>> storage locker (coupla surly bikes). I bought the heaviest gauge chain I 
>>> could find locally and ran it through the frames and wheels of the bikes. 
>>> It was tedious work as the chain was so heavy and awkward to remove, but 
>>> when the locker was inevitably broken into, the bikes were all there...
>>>
>>> The first suggestion of locking to the wall sounds good, but I wonder if 
>>> the bike frame could be used as a lever to pull it out of the studs? The 
>>> reason I liked locking the bikes to each other is that it creates one huge 
>>> super awkward jumble of bikes. Totally impossible to move unless you cut 
>>> the chain. And this chain took two *large* men standing on a cutting 
>>> machine to break at the hardware store. My 2 cents!
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 11:10:27 AM UTC-5, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Justin,
 Be careful about storing tools in the garage. I've heard of cases where 
 tools in the garage were used by burglars to remove locks, etc.

 If you haven't already, record your bikes' serial numbers, take some 
 pics, and check your insurance policy on what is/is not covered. 

 Good luck!
 shoji



 On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 11:40:12 AM UTC-4, Kainalu wrote:
>
> It's easy to make a fake all-weather camera bubble, and not that much 
> harder to have a real one. 
> And signs that state that there is an alarm system are an excellent 
> first line of defense against bike thieves who can read.
> -Kai
> giving it my darndest to avoid openly sharing with the divine or 
> terrestrial, in Brooklyn NY
>
> Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> So in practical terms related to Justin's question, are you 
>> suggesting that the best way to secure bicycles in a garage is to *Leave 
>> it to Jesus*?
>>
>> On 04/04/2016 08:59 AM, Garth wrote:
>>
>>
>> 2 + 2 = 4  
>>
>> Is this principle limited locally, individually to me, you or anyone, 
>> or is this truth Universal, Infinite and belongs to everyone eternally 
>> and 
>> without bounds or restraint ? 
>>
>> Can anyone steal it, buy it, sell it, hide it, hoard it, destroy it, 
>> make it more or less than the perfection it always is, has been and will 
>> be 
>> ?   Can anyone change it it any way ?
>>
>>   the answer is obvious. 
>>
>> Principle 

[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Lungimsam]

Right now I don't want to get the Compass brakes. Just wondering if anyone here 
uses them on their Rivs.

I am more interested in cantis for my next bike, unless there is a compelling 
reason to go with cpulls.

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Bob B]

Tim, 

Thanks for the note. I thought Tubus might have something. It's also good 
to know about the weight difference. 

RE: your question about the Seattle Sports panniers: They've never bounced 
free. The panniers have a bit of flex to them, so as you mount them you can 
kinda twist the pannier so that the toggle hook gets around a rack tube. 
You just have to set up the pannier so that the lower toggle hook is in the 
right place, at the right angle. You can tighten it so it keeps a fixed 
position. The upper hooks kind of "snap" (but in a spongey kind of way) 
over the top of the rack. The combination is actually very stable and 
secure, and not at all noisy. I use two for big trips and one daily for 
commuting. I dismount and re-mount that pannier almost every day, and I've 
had them for 8 years or so. I believe the company will replace hooks if you 
break them, but that hasn't happened to me.



On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 11:31:30 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> With the Campee Classic:
>
> I think you could use a long centerpull brake arm (or any of the 
> currently-marketed adapters) to raise the light quite a bit from the strut 
> eyelets.
>
> You could also mount the light on the handlebar, if you're not planning on 
> putting a large bag or basket on the top rack platform.
>
>
> But the Campee Classic is heavier than a separate Mini  Front rack and 
> lowriders.  Personally, I'd recommend a Tubus Tara underneath a Mini Front.
> I used a Campee Classic on my Riv Road/650b on last year's RAGBRAI.  Since 
> then, I've changed it out for a Mini Front, holding a Banzer/Treetop rando 
> bag and a Luxos U out front.  I'll add a Tara when I want to add panniers.
>
>
> With those Seattle Sports panniers, how do they lock to the rack?  I can 
> see that they have J-hooks up top and some kind of toggle hook down low.  
> Do you twist that toggle hook thing to jam it against a rack tube?  I don't 
> understand how these panniers don't bounce themselves free.  
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 10:02 AM, Robert  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi, all.
>>
>> I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack 
>>  for 
>> a new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the 
>> removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run 
>> a Luxos-B , which 
>> Riv recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light 
>> throw. The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a 
>> light mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?
>>
>> I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of 
>> the Campee rack?
>>
>> My panniers are Seattle Sports 
>>  Rain 
>> Riders (btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well 
>> on Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd 
>> just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another 
>> nice, versatile setup...
>>
>> -- 
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Tim Gavin]

With the Campee Classic:

I think you could use a long centerpull brake arm (or any of the
currently-marketed adapters) to raise the light quite a bit from the strut
eyelets.

You could also mount the light on the handlebar, if you're not planning on
putting a large bag or basket on the top rack platform.


But the Campee Classic is heavier than a separate Mini  Front rack and
lowriders.  Personally, I'd recommend a Tubus Tara underneath a Mini Front.
I used a Campee Classic on my Riv Road/650b on last year's RAGBRAI.  Since
then, I've changed it out for a Mini Front, holding a Banzer/Treetop rando
bag and a Luxos U out front.  I'll add a Tara when I want to add panniers.


With those Seattle Sports panniers, how do they lock to the rack?  I can
see that they have J-hooks up top and some kind of toggle hook down low.
Do you twist that toggle hook thing to jam it against a rack tube?  I don't
understand how these panniers don't bounce themselves free.

Cheers,
Tim

On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 10:02 AM, Robert  wrote:

> Hi, all.
>
> I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack
>  for a
> new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the
> removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run
> a Luxos-B , which
> Riv recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light
> throw. The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a
> light mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?
>
> I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of the
> Campee rack?
>
> My panniers are Seattle Sports
>  Rain Riders
> (btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well on
> Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd
> just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another
> nice, versatile setup...
>
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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Kieran J]

I think it's fair to say that the Compass brakes are almost exclusively 
geared towards custom frames. 
If you are dying to put some long-reach centrepulls on a Riv, use the Pauls.

KJ


On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 10:24:32 AM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Wow. Sounds like a niche of a niche boutique item.

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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[Garth]

   Sounds like the Rivet would be worth trying, it's the only way to know 
.  They have a 365 day no questions return policy if you were not aware of 
it. 





On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 10:41:44 AM UTC-4, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
> another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
>  
> HISTORY
> Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
> Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
> for sufficient width
> Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the B17. 
> Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
> Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
> Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
> used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
> the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
> the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
> back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
>  
> IDEAS
> Brooks B68 - no longer made
> Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
> Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
> and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
> Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jay
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Saddles

[Deacon Patrick]

Rivet. All the way.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 8:41:44 AM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
> another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
>  
> HISTORY
> Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
> Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
> for sufficient width
> Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the B17. 
> Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
> Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
> Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
> used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
> the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
> the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
> back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
>  
> IDEAS
> Brooks B68 - no longer made
> Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
> Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
> and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
> Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jay
>  
>  
>

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[RBW] Nitto Campee front rack advice: Center-mounting a light

[Robert]

Hi, all.

I'm considering a Nitto Campee front rack 
 for a 
new Riv I'll be building up. I really like this idea of this rack (the 
removable pannier attachments), but here's my predicament: I also want run 
a Luxos-B , which Riv 
recommends center-mounting above the tire because of its wide light throw. 
The Campee rack only has a side light mount. Does anyone know of a light 
mounting solution for the curved front-center area of the rack?

I'm pretty sure I'd like to run a Luxos-B, so am I forcing the idea of the 
Campee rack?

My panniers are Seattle Sports 
 Rain Riders 
(btw, underrated panniers)—not Riv—so I worry they won't mount well on 
Riv's hub area hoop rack which seems kinda proprietary. If they did, I'd 
just use that in combination with a Mini Front rack. This would be another 
nice, versatile setup...

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[RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Utah]

Hi Justin,
In addition to the great ideas you are getting here, I would recommend a 
BIG exterior light with a motion sensor.  Like a street light.  That way 
when someone approaches your garage, they will "see the light".  

Of course, write down your serial numbers on your bikes and take pictures 
of them for insurance and possibly law enforcement reasons.

It would also be interesting to see if you could get some kind of beeper 
that would beep for ten seconds each time you open the door, like a back up 
beeper on a truck.  OR, something that would just shock the crap out of 
anyone who touched your garage.  Like this...

http://www.amazon.com/HA-434RTL-Wireless-Driveway-Business-Security/dp/B003CWK4JK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8=1459823952=8-2=garage+security

http://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Elite-Door-Garage-Alarm/dp/B00KCUW3NU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1459823952=8-3=garage+security

Leave it to amazon.

Scott

On Sunday, April 3, 2016 at 9:31:58 PM UTC-6, Justin August wrote:
>
> Hey folks-
> Assuming everything goes according to plan I'm entering the wild world of 
> home ownership at the end of this month! Our bungalow in East Oakland has a 
> detached 1 car garage where he bikes will probably live. I'm wondering the 
> best way to secure them. The garage only has a car door, no man door. 
>
> Any suggestions would be welcomed. 
>
> Bikes:
> Saluki (mine)
> Betty Foy (wife's)
>
> -Justin
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Loyal Designs Randonneur bag, Nigel Smythe bag, Nitto Mark’s Rack

[Sean on Bike]

All items still available. Answers to some questions:

The Loyal Designs bag is nearly identical in size to the 10 liter Gilles 
Berthoud GB25. It doesn't require a decaleur due to the bottom straps/strap 
holders which Berthoud strangely omits.

The Nigel Smythe bag fits the exact dimension of Nitto Mark's rack.

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[RBW] Re: Best advice for securing bikes in a garage

[Zach Roeder]

If I had a garage in Oakland, I'd do exactly this.  In fact, I'd probably 
install a staple rack in my garage since I only use my garage for bike 
storage.

I'd also put privacy plastic over any windows.

Also, I agree with what Surlyprof and Shoji have said about insurance since 
a determined thief can steal anything. If you can't get satisfactory 
coverage from your homeowner's policy, you can purchase an additional 
policy for bikes.  Markel Insurance offers this, but in the past I've found 
their policy too expensive.

Good luck & congrats!


On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 9:29:31 PM UTC-4, Kurt Manley wrote:
>
> Congrats on the new house. As a fellow Oaklander who knows the area you 
> are at high risk. I have been thinking about trying to buy a house in the 
> same area and have given it some thought. 
>
> I would not depend on anything bolted to the studs or any wood for that 
> matter. I'd go into the concrete floor. You can rent a rotary hammer drill 
> and do this quite easily. Then use some expanding studs to mount some 
> anchors. Smash the tops of the threaded rods and use a glob of jb weld when 
> you're done to prevent them from being unbolted. This is how they mount all 
> of the U shaped bike lock poles around the city. Then I'd u lock right to 
> that. 
>
> You could use these to anchor a recessed or folding eyelet.
>
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-3-8-in-x-3-3-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Hex-Nut-Head-Concrete-Wedge-Anchors-50-Pack-11270/100182728
>
>
> None of this is to say I don't think the other ideas are good, they'd be 
> more than fine most places but it's east Oakland...You need a little 
> extra here.
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday, April 3, 2016 at 8:31:58 PM UTC-7, Justin August wrote:
>>
>> Hey folks-
>> Assuming everything goes according to plan I'm entering the wild world of 
>> home ownership at the end of this month! Our bungalow in East Oakland has a 
>> detached 1 car garage where he bikes will probably live. I'm wondering the 
>> best way to secure them. The garage only has a car door, no man door. 
>>
>> Any suggestions would be welcomed. 
>>
>> Bikes:
>> Saluki (mine)
>> Betty Foy (wife's)
>>
>> -Justin
>>
>>

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[RBW] Saddles

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

Seeking the collective wisdom of the group before spending $$ on 
another new saddle that may or may not fit me on my Sam Hillborne.
 
HISTORY
Brooks B17N - too narrow, what was I thinking?
Brooks B17 - OK, never really comfortable, just OK. Have to sit way back 
for sufficient width
Selle Anatomica - very comfortable even if slightly narrower than the B17. 
Perfect except for the broken rims. Bent 2 - no mas.
Brooks C17 - OK, similar to the B17
Brooks B17 imperial (with laces and cutout) - similar to B17. This time I 
used emperical observation to check the width. I used my han to feel under 
the saddle for my sit bones. Sitting all the way back, one is just insode 
the rivets and the other is actually hanging off. Saddle is all the way 
back on a VO setback post. Alba bars.
 
IDEAS
Brooks B68 - no longer made
Brooks C19 - wider than the B17
Rivet Pearl - slightly narrower than the B17 but people seem to love them 
and the Selle Anatomicas were great until they broke.
Great prices for either on xxcycle.com
 
What say you wise folks?
 
Thanks,
Jay
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Shoji Takahashi]

Compass centerpulls require special braze ons, so they won't fit on 
off-the-shelf Riv models. You might be able to get them on certain customs 
(which I think was mentioned in a Blug post). They might fit on adapters 
(Mafac?) to permit them to fit on center mounts. 

shoji


On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 9:26:01 AM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Which model/s do they fit?

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Lungimsam]

Wow. Sounds like a niche of a niche boutique item.

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[William R.]

There are many more knowing members here who can correct me if I'm wrong... 
But, I'm fairly sure that none of the stock Rivs are compatible with the 
Compass centerpulls. With that said, I'm sure you could have any of the 
Waterford built Rivs: Hilsen, Roadeo and Atlantis (or a custom) built with 
the Compass centerpull posts in the position that they require to install 
the brakes. Riv would need to be willing to do it of course. They are 
offering to build Hilsens for instance, with canti posts for a small up 
charge. Maybe it would involve a little more work to set the Compass posts 
up properly. One might need to purchase the brakes and posts and send to 
the builder to get everything right. Most existing Riv frames could be 
modified by a competent builder in the same manner. I think... I'm sure 
others will chime in. They look to be excellent brakes in every way.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: FS: 700c Tires - Smart Sams, Conti Speed Rides, Vee Rubber V12s, Panaracer Paselas, Resist Nomads

[David Banzer]

Updated list with sold/pending items removed. Remaining tire pairs are:


>- Vee Rubber V12 Tires - PAIR - 29x1.95 - measure about 47mm on Dyads 
>- used a little, lots of tread - folding bead - $45 plus shipping
>- Resist Nomad Tires - PAIR - 700x35 - measure a hair under 34mm 
>actual width on CR18s - used very lightly - maybe 100 miles total at most 
> - 
>tan sidewalls - wire bead - $30 plus shipping
>- Resist Nomad Tires - PAIR - 700x45 - measure about 41mm on Dyads - 
>used lightly, planned to use these on BMC MC before I realized I can fit 
>much larger tires - tan sidewalls - wire bead - $35 plus shipping
>
>

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[RBW] Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Philip Kim]

A homer Hilsen, Sam Hillborne, and Soma San Marcos

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[RBW] Anyone using Compass centerpulls on thie Rivendell?

[Lungimsam]

Which model/s do they fit?

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Re: [RBW] IQ-X Headlight

[Eric Norris]

I ordered from Clever Cycles in Portland, and received it in about two days.

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Apr 4, 2016, at 5:21 PM, drew  wrote:
> 
> So has anyone received their lights from bike-discount yet? Website says they 
> are in stock, I'm just waiting to pull the trigger
> 
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