[RBW] PSA: $550 63cm Romulus Complete on LA Craigslist

[sameness]

Looks like it actually lives out by Palm Springs:

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/d/rivendell/6465773816.html

Not mine, no affiliation, etc.

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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Re: [RBW] Skewer Question

[lum gim fong]

You can use Pitlock skewers for security.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto quill stem (non-Tallux) - $25 shipped CONUS

[Jeffrey Arita]

*SOLD*

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 7:27:43 PM UTC-8, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
> For sale is a Nitto (non-Tallux) quill stem.  Standard 22.2 mm quill with 
> a 7 cm extension.  Handlebar clamp diameter is 26.0 mm.  Asking $25 
> including shipping CONUS.  Any questions please let me know.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Jeff
>
>   
>

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Re: [RBW] Skewer Question

[Eric Norris]

Some riders use the Allen wrench skewers to help deter theft, since a top-end 
dynamo wheel can be quite expensive. As Bill points out, a standard quick 
release works perfectly. 

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Jan 19, 2018, at 4:38 PM, Tim Bantham  wrote:
> 
> Having never owned a wheel with a SON 28 hub before I have a question about 
> the skewer. I picked up the wheelset used and the skewer looks like a long 
> 5mm bolt. The skewer was lacking the nut at the other end. Can I use any old 
> QR skewer with a dynamo hub or does it have to be the type that came with the 
> wheel? Can I just take the knurled nut off of another skewer and use it with 
> the long bolt type skewer? I hope this is not a dumb question but I am not 
> familiar with this type of skewer.
> 
> Tim
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[RBW] Skewer Question

[Ian A]

The allen bolt skewer you have can be used with the knurled nut from a QR 
skewer - they're the same part.

IanA

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Belopsky]

Spend the money on a nice tool. Klein or Felco, though I spend just a tad 
bit on something else Made in Japan

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[RBW] Skewer Question

[Bill Lindsay]

You can use any normal QR skewer with your dynamo wheel

Bill Lindsay 
El Cerrito Ca. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

Nah, Joe, you got your Chev set up to ride it like I ride my Betz - you’ll be 
able to hang with me up those hills in no time! Especially of you get the fancy 
schmancy new bar tape job - guaranteed to make you at least 10% faster uphill!

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[RBW] Skewer Question

[Tim Bantham]

Having never owned a wheel with a SON 28 hub before I have a question about 
the skewer. I picked up the wheelset used and the skewer looks like a long 
5mm bolt. The skewer was lacking the nut at the other end. Can I use any 
old QR skewer with a dynamo hub or does it have to be the type that came 
with the wheel? Can I just take the knurled nut off of another skewer and 
use it with the long bolt type skewer? I hope this is not a dumb question 
but I am not familiar with this type of skewer.

Tim

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[RBW] Re: PSA: AHH 47cm

['Ann L' via RBW Owners Bunch]

It is a very pretty bike and has some really nice components.  
Unfortunately, it is my size.  


But where I'm at now isn't suited for a road bike so I will forgo 
temptation for now.

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 10:20:10 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Not mine, not my size, it sure is pretty. 
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/rivendell-homer-hilsen/6461279894.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

I must admit that I have had less fraying since I bought a Park Cable 
Cutter. The Craftsman side cutters squashed the cable and encouraged 
fraying. I change components around a lot between bikes and pull a lot of 
cables. I try to avoid poking myself in the eye with the cable ends...

Laing

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:50:10 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> I guess I rarely remove cables unless they are coming off. But when I do, 
> I don't usually get fraying. I do leave them a wee bit long in case I need 
> to trim.
>
> Here's an interesting thread on BF about soldering cable ends. One guy 
> mentions using brass tubing. Another points out that soldered cable is 
> about as sharp as non-capped cable, and can puncture skin:
>
>
> https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/775181-soldering-end-bicycle-shift-brake-cable.html
>
>
>
>

 . 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Sky Coulter]

Nice!

Thanks for the detail...sky in new west

> On Jan 19, 2018, at 1:53 PM, lconley  wrote:
> 
> 96%tin/4%silver solder and No.78 Stainless Soldering Flux from H&N 
> Electronics (California City, CA) is what I use. Be patient with the flux, I 
> pour some into the bottle cap and dip the cable end and let it sit for a 
> while, then rinse with water and do it again except don't rinse before 
> soldering. Make sure to have a CLEAN HOT soldering iron, put a small amount 
> solder on the tip of the iron (I have the iron in a stand) and stroke the end 
> of the cable through the molten solder. If the solder doesn't flow into the 
> cable, clean and re-flux. Be stingy with the solder, you don't want build-up 
> on the outside of the cable (makes feeding it through the housing difficult), 
> but you need it to wick into the cable. You can correct buildup on the cable 
> with a small fine file.
> 
> Laing
> 
>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:13:42 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>> How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
>> impossible to do.  What's the trick? 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Deacon Patrick]

Brilliant, Leah. Absoultely brilliant!

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

96%tin/4%silver solder and No.78 Stainless Soldering Flux from H&N 
Electronics (California City, CA) is what I use. Be patient with the flux, 
I pour some into the bottle cap and dip the cable end and let it sit for a 
while, then rinse with water and do it again except don't rinse before 
soldering. Make sure to have a CLEAN HOT soldering iron, put a small amount 
solder on the tip of the iron (I have the iron in a stand) and stroke the 
end of the cable through the molten solder. If the solder doesn't flow into 
the cable, clean and re-flux. Be stingy with the solder, you don't want 
build-up on the outside of the cable (makes feeding it through the housing 
difficult), but you need it to wick into the cable. You can correct buildup 
on the cable with a small fine file.

Laing

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:13:42 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

> How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
> impossible to do.  What's the trick? 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Leah Bicycle Belle Ding Ding Lady, I suspect you have insane climbing legs that 
would leave most of us old dudes in a cloud of whimpers and "oh yeah, I gotta 
turn around and do some chores, you go on now." You're the only person I know 
who has a surfeit of gears and just forgets to downshift 😜 

Joe "you go on now" Bernard
Novato CA. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I guess I rarely remove cables unless they are coming off. But when I do, I 
don't usually get fraying. I do leave them a wee bit long in case I need to 
trim.

Here's an interesting thread on BF about soldering cable ends. One guy 
mentions using brass tubing. Another points out that soldered cable is 
about as sharp as non-capped cable, and can puncture skin:

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/775181-soldering-end-bicycle-shift-brake-cable.html



On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 4:04:54 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
> fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
> reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable stays 
> together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that is paid 
> back over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike shops crimp to 
> save the bike shops time and money, but down the road it costs the owner 
> money in having to replace frayed cables. Soldered SS cables basically last 
> forever - kind of like buying a steel frame because it is not disposable.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:19:30 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
>> Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the 
>> Clems? Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a 
>> bicycle repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't 
>> need to figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or 
>> coated cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of 
>> advantages, other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't 
>> get it either Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or 
>> you lose the full aesthetic punch;^)
>>
>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
>>> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
>>> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
>>> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
>>> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
>>> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
>>> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
>>> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
>>> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
>>> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> . 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

I wouldn't begin to know how to solder, and I don't see myself ever learning. 
More money into the economy for new cables, I say! (I'm gonna have Grant put 
some copper on mine when I take the bike in for his Fancy Schmantzy Bar Wrap)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Sky Coulter]

Thanks for the tip Laing, i’m totally getting out the soldering iron next time 
i do maintenance, it sounds like a nice solution to cable fray to me.

Sky in new west
(Who has lazily been using beeswax on the cable ends for sometime now)

> On Jan 19, 2018, at 1:04 PM, lconley  wrote:
> 
> The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
> fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
> reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable stays 
> together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that is paid back 
> over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike shops crimp to save 
> the bike shops time and money, but down the road it costs the owner money in 
> having to replace frayed cables. Soldered SS cables basically last forever - 
> kind of like buying a steel frame because it is not disposable.
> 
> Laing
> 
> 
>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:19:30 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>> Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the Clems? 
>> Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a bicycle 
>> repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't need to 
>> figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or coated 
>> cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of advantages, 
>> other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't get it either 
>> Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or you lose the 
>> full aesthetic punch;^)
>> 
>>> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
>>> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
>>> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
>>> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
>>> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
>>> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
>>> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
>>> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
>>> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
>>> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>>> 
>>> Laing
>>> 
>>> .
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Steve Palincsar]

How do you solder a stainless steel cable?  I'd heard it was virtually 
impossible to do.  What's the trick?



On 01/19/2018 04:04 PM, lconley wrote:
The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable 
stays together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that 
is paid back over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike 
shops crimp to save the bike shops time and money, but down the road 
it costs the owner money in having to replace frayed cables. Soldered 
SS cables basically last forever - kind of like buying a steel frame 
because it is not disposable.


Laing



--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

The huge advantage of soldering cable ends is zero chance of the cable 
fraying when you remove a crimp. No matter how many times you pull and 
reinsert the cable in and out of the derailleur or brake, the cable stays 
together. Takes a small amount of time during assembly, but that is paid 
back over the life if the cable/bike. I understand that bike shops crimp to 
save the bike shops time and money, but down the road it costs the owner 
money in having to replace frayed cables. Soldered SS cables basically last 
forever - kind of like buying a steel frame because it is not disposable.

Laing


On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 3:19:30 PM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the 
> Clems? Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a 
> bicycle repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't 
> need to figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or 
> coated cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of 
> advantages, other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't 
> get it either Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or 
> you lose the full aesthetic punch;^)
>
> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>>
>> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
>> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
>> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
>> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
>> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
>> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
>> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
>> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
>> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
>> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> . 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Funny, I have my Clementine up for sale, but was contemplating some sort of 
single speed setup if it doesn't sell. I could get with the 3 on front, but 
I'd want a single cog on the back.

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 2:45:35 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The derailer forced into a singlespeed position with a cable starting at 
> the rear stop is hilarious. It looks cool and I don't even know why!

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

This double single speed idea - I wonder if this is what I've actually been 
doing all along - and if so, I was cool before it was cool to be cool. My Betty 
is from 2012, and has the traditional friction shifters and two chainrings up 
front, and several in the back. However, I only use 2 gears. I never, ever 
shift the rear gears, and I will only shift to the granny cog up front when 
climbing the unreasonable hill near home. I never think to shift any other 
time. The way the bike feels is normal to me, and I never feel the itch to mess 
with it. I don't know if the gears are simply perfect for me, thus no need to 
change, or if my legs have become one with this bike. I suspect the latter.

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Copper crimps--cause it's fun, like the colored spoke nipples on the Clems? 
Crimps in general--cause they are easier, also faster and safer in a 
bicycle repair shop, cause they work and look just fine, cause you don't 
need to figure out correct solder and flux mixtures or strip treated or 
coated cables, and cause soldering offers really nothing in terms of 
advantages, other than, subjectively, aesthetics. Other than that, I don't 
get it either Solder away, mate! (Just be sure to do your spokes, too, or 
you lose the full aesthetic punch;^)

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 12:09:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
> Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
> of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
> solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
> shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
> need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
> while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
> years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
> haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
> super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.
>
> Laing
>
> . 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Light but strong wheels for a Sam or ???

[Tim Gavin]

Bob-

I'm ~#250 and I ride like a caffeinated lummox.  I hop curbs, ride gravel,
and do dumb things.
However, I've only ever dented one rim: a Velocity Synergy OC rear, because
I hit a 2" pavement gap JUST wrong (wheelied the front over the gap,
slammed the rear into it).

The rims I have failed to destroy:
28h Mavic Open Pros
36h Pacenti PL23
36h Synergy front
32h Stans 23mm (unknown model)
and various 32h MTB rims

Like you, I prefer 36h lacing for strength, but those 30 year old 28h Open
Pros worked just fine for me.

Think of it more as an insurance policy.  Any wheel could fail, depending
on stress and/or abuse.  A 28h rim would work fine for you, but probably
not for as long nor through as much adversity as a 32h rim or 36h rim.

On a bike that doesn't get abused much and stays on pavement, you may be
fine with 28h rims.  On a bike that leaves the pavement and/or deals with a
lot of obstacles, you'd probably be better off with more spokes.

However, IMHO 32h for a #200 person plus load seems fine.

Also, consider that double-butted spokes make a wheel both lighter AND less
failure-prone.  The 36/40 spoke recommendation dates from an era of
non-butted spokes.


On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 12:29 PM, Bob Lovejoy  wrote:

> Thanks Jay.  Another worthy contender or possibility...
>
> A general question for all though... Just to show how old fashioned I seem
> to be, I have always considered 32h rims a little less than truly adequate
> for a 200lb guy (a little less these days) with some gear and tools added.
> I have always had 36h rims (even 40h in something of a mistake).  That
> said, I know wheels can be magically strong if built correctly, usually by
> someone talented, patient and practiced in the art.
>
> The R460's seem to max at 32h, and I know others ride 32h, even 28's
> (front?), but I am curious... Are 32h rims, built well and strong, plenty
> for the above rider and scenario?
>
> Always (over) thinking...
>
> Bob Lovejoy
> Galesburg, IL
>
>
> On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 11:48:46 AM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>>
>> I've had a dyno-wheel built with DT R460s. In service for daily commuting
>> for a year and change now with no issues.
>> +1
>>
>> Jay
>>
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[RBW] FS: 2 pr NEW 700C X 50 Furious Freds

[Patrick Moore]

Exceptionally light but surprisingly durable -- I had an estimated 500
miles at least left on the rear, at 2904, when I replaced it with a Big
One. (This rear got tossed; I'm offering new ones.)

2 NIP, 2 NNP. All unmounted.

Prices do not include shipping.

$35 each. Buy 4 and you can have them for $130 shipped, and I'll throw in
#5, a still very new one used on the front for 500 miles.

Thanks.

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**
**
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[RBW] Re: Light but strong wheels for a Sam or ???

[Bob Lovejoy]

Thanks Jay.  Another worthy contender or possibility...

A general question for all though... Just to show how old fashioned I seem 
to be, I have always considered 32h rims a little less than truly adequate 
for a 200lb guy (a little less these days) with some gear and tools added. 
 I have always had 36h rims (even 40h in something of a mistake).  That 
said, I know wheels can be magically strong if built correctly, usually by 
someone talented, patient and practiced in the art.

The R460's seem to max at 32h, and I know others ride 32h, even 28's 
(front?), but I am curious... Are 32h rims, built well and strong, plenty 
for the above rider and scenario?

Always (over) thinking...

Bob Lovejoy
Galesburg, IL


On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 11:48:46 AM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> I've had a dyno-wheel built with DT R460s. In service for daily commuting 
> for a year and change now with no issues.
> +1
>
> Jay
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Light but strong wheels for a Sam or ???

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I've had a dyno-wheel built with DT R460s. In service for daily commuting 
for a year and change now with no issues.
+1

Jay

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 5:15:55 PM UTC+2, John W wrote:

> I like my Pacenti Brevet rims. Light enough for me. Great braking surface, 
> fairly easy to mount tires. (I use a long throw Lezyne pump but always keep 
> a CO2 cartridge with me just in case.) And one day I’ll try out tubeless 
> and these rims will work for that. 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Used Paul Motolites

[drew]

i dont have ones to sell, but i can measure stuff if you want. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Drew: I understand it. My new Cheviot uses a single cog in the back and two 
rings with derailer up front. This works for me as two versions of a 
singlespeed on a ride because I would never be able to talk myself out of 
shifting the rear if I had a whole cassette available. The hill gets steep, I 
get tired..that grind is going to be alleviated by a shift at some point. 

Of course it's a bit silly to build a full-cassette bike only to lock out the 
rear, but Grant is going with the idea that you can buy it and change it later 
if you want. Actually now that I think about it, I paid for a Paul Melvin, a 
single cog and two Gear Clamps. I didn't save any money - and probably not much 
weight - over doing it Grant's way! 🤦

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[RBW] Re: Frame lock installation - Clem

[Valerie Yates]

Yes, the stock tires would have been fine. I had switched to Continental 
Race King 650bx2.2 before installing the lock and they rubbed when I 
attempted to install the lock. I switched to Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 27.5 
x 2.0 and those fit fine. FWIW these are great tires for adventure rides 
with uncertain road surface conditions.


On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:53:28 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> What size tire? I use an Abus on my Clem with the stock Kenda tires and 
> there were no issues mounting or tire clearance.
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[lconley]

I don't get the copper cable crimps. The thing I understand least about 
Rivendell (or anyone who is into bikes) is why they use crimps on the end 
of cables. I have been soldering cable ends for many, many years - once you 
solder it, it is done. There is no more crimping and un-crimping and 
shortening or disposal of cables that have frayed from the crimp when you 
need to pull a cable out. Crimping just always looks cheap to me. It took a 
while to find the correct solder and flux for SS cable, but that change was 
years ago. The exception to this is the 11 speed cables with Teflon - I 
haven't developed a procedure yet to remove the Teflon (I haven't tried 
super glue either), but only one of my 21 (22?) has the Teflon cable.

Laing

. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[Christopher Murray]

I think this looks like a fun bike and a great experiment. I’d wager this bike 
will be set up as a standard 3x9 within a few months. Maybe not. If I bought it 
I’d prob keep it this way because I have other bikes and I think it’s cool that 
Riv built it this way. 

It makes absolutely no rational sense and that makes me love it. 

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[drew]

this is bonkers. i love it. I have to say, i don't understand the 
single-speedifying with multi speed parts that they are doing recently 
(wouldnt it be easier just to tell yourself not to shift), but it is 
hilarious to see them go to such elaborate lengths to make it happen. 


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[RBW] Re: WTB: Used Paul Motolites

[Bob B]

One last feeler for these! Trying to get the adjustment range I need for a 
26" > 650b conversion for a rivved-out commuter.

Bob
Brooklyn, NY


On Tuesday, January 2, 2018 at 4:44:11 PM UTC-5, Bob B wrote:
>
> Anyone got a used pair? I actually only need a single, but I'd also buy a 
> pair if that's what you've got. They don't have to look great as long as 
> they're in working order. Respond via PM if possible, please.
>
> Thanks!
> Bob
> Brooklyn, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Pics of your 59cm Clem L's

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Well, it's a 52 not a 59 (could have gone either way, but 3rd flr walk-up 
and wanted a tad more nimbleness). But it is dressed in black on black:




On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:01:52 PM UTC-5, tc wrote:
>
> Wow I really love the look of this bike in black with black fenders and 
> fat tires!  Looks like a (better) dutch bike.  Triggered memory of 
> Constance Winters' post when she received her Clementine, calling it 
> something like inexplicably magical.  I wish she'd gotten around to writing 
> a follow up.  
>
> I found it:  
> http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2016/09/clementine-belated-befuddled-bedazzled.html
>
> Tom
>
> On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 12:41:07 PM UTC-5, Alex Wirth- Owner, 
> Yellow Haus Bicycles wrote:
>>
>> Rear loaded:
>>
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BWB2iQNB3Ar/?hl=en&taken-by=yellowhausbicycles
>>
>> Naked:
>>
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BU65lUJBBUN/?hl=en&taken-by=yellowhausbicycles
>>
>> Path racer:
>>
>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BTG4j2mhGSc/?hl=en&taken-by=yellowhausbicycles
>>
>> I have large wald and shop sack mounted to the big nitto with hub area 
>> bags now.and a medium saddle sack.  I think I like that combo the best 
>> so far.
>>
>> Alex Wirth
>> Rochester, NY
>>
>>

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[RBW] PSA: AHH 47cm

[Joe Bernard]

Not mine, not my size, it sure is pretty. 

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/rivendell-homer-hilsen/6461279894.html

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[RBW] Re: Frame lock installation - Clem

[Belopsky]

What size tire? I use an Abus on my Clem with the stock Kenda tires and 
there were no issues mounting or tire clearance.

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[RBW] Re: Frame lock installation - Clem

[Valerie Yates]

I was able to install it without filing away anything. It required shifting 
it up and down a bit to determine where best to make it fit. I also had to 
go down slightly in the tire size I was planning to use with this bike for 
the lock to be able to close around the wheel. It was well worth it. It is 
so nice to have a lock in place at all times that is so quick and easy to 
use. 



Val in Boulder CO

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 10:23:31 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> I’m trying to install an AXA Victory Framelock to my Clem. The mounting 
> braze-ons on the frame are just slightly too far apart to match-up with the 
> mounting slots on the lock. Mark at Riv says it’s a difficult lock to 
> install ... requires filing away material on the lock to make it work. Has 
> anyone here installed this lock and have any tips?

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[RBW] Re: Grant Clem L special on the Blahg

[David Scelfo]

If only the "shifter" was cabled to ring a tire mounted bell.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ventura-Ultra-Loud-Tire-Bicycle-Bell-420195/205151369

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[RBW] Re: Test Ride Homer Hilsen 54cm or 56cm in Virginia/DC/Maryland?

[Philip Kim]

i still got one bike, this is gonna be for my fiance possibly. but once you 
decide to let one of yours go let me know :)

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:10:45 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Guess you're not done bike hunting either
>
> On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 4:30:51 PM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Would like to see if anyone has a 54cm or 56cm Homer Hilsen that I could 
>> test ride in Virginia, Maryland or DC?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Phil in DC
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Test Ride Homer Hilsen 54cm or 56cm in Virginia/DC/Maryland?

[Philip Kim]

yeah they don't have an AHH last time I was in there.

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:29:20 AM UTC-5, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> I know they are closing shop but you could call/email gravel & grind 
> (analog cycles) and see if they can help. 

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[RBW] Re: Test Ride Homer Hilsen 54cm or 56cm in Virginia/DC/Maryland?

[Philip Kim]

Yes, gonna be for my fiance.

On Friday, January 19, 2018 at 8:10:45 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Guess you're not done bike hunting either
>
> On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 4:30:51 PM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Would like to see if anyone has a 54cm or 56cm Homer Hilsen that I could 
>> test ride in Virginia, Maryland or DC?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Phil in DC
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto quill stem (non-Tallux) - $25 shipped CONUS

[S. Greco]

Is this still for sale? I'll take it off your hands!

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[RBW] Re: Test Ride Homer Hilsen 54cm or 56cm in Virginia/DC/Maryland?

[Justin Schoop]

I know they are closing shop but you could call/email gravel & grind (analog 
cycles) and see if they can help. 

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[RBW] Re: Test Ride Homer Hilsen 54cm or 56cm in Virginia/DC/Maryland?

[Belopsky]

Guess you're not done bike hunting either

On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 4:30:51 PM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Would like to see if anyone has a 54cm or 56cm Homer Hilsen that I could 
> test ride in Virginia, Maryland or DC?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Phil in DC
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Canti brake sets - Tektro, VO Grand Cru and Avid Shorty Ultimate

[Philip Williamson]

No problem, I’m looking forward to the brakes for the Quickbeam, to replace the 
current 720 / froggleg mismatch.
You make a good point, though: the Avid v-brakes on my Bontrager are the only 
brakes I’ve ever NOT fussed with. 18 years with zero issues, why am I still 
hunting cantilevers?? #deepissues. 

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

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