[RBW] FS: 1984 Univega Gran Turismo 54cm. 700c with good clearances. spectacular condition.

[Julian Wong]

Beautiful bike! I recently got a turismo too, and am going to convert to 700c. 
Do you remember the max tire size you could fit? 

Thanks 

Julian

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Patrick Moore]

$37? Thirty seven dollars? Are you serious? You can't be.

Please clarify, to calm my over-revving heart.

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 5:58 PM, Joe Bunik  wrote:

> or my $37 Roadeo
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Patrick Moore]

I'm good for it.

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 4:39 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> ...  If we don't win the California State Championship in 2019 I'll come
> after Patrick Moore for a $50 refund.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I don't get how that solid wax can get to inside the rollers, where the 
critical wear occurs.


On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 8:53:51 AM UTC-7, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> This just came up on Instagram: https://instagram.com/p/BjkQr4VgsK7/
> https://wendperformance.com/buy-online/wend-wax-on
>
>
> The convenience factor is huge. 
>
> -J
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: When Life Gives...

[Curtis McKenzie]

Sweet!  Or is that sour?

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018, 8:31 PM dougP  wrote:

> Are you sure that bike is up to carrying that load?  :-)
>
> doug
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 7:34:35 PM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 7:28:05 AM UTC-7, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
> with weight distribution. 
> What do you all like? 
> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>  (which has the hoop). $120
> Salsa Down Under Rack 
> . 
> Aluminum. $65
> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>
> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>

I have three bikes with lowrider racks – An older Toyo Atlantis 
 outfitted with Nitto Campee front 

 
and rear racks 
;
 
a Boulder Bicycle All-Road  with Velo-Orange's 
Campeur front rack 
; 
and a Litespeed Blue Ridge  with traditional 
lowrider racks from Tubus.

I've ridden all of these bikes with panniers weighing about 10 pounds each 
on the lowriders, and they all work fine. A few notes:

   1. front loading makes steering a little unresponsive at first (but 
   you'll get used to it quickly).
   2. Large-ish Ortlieb "Back Roller Plus" panniers fit fine in the front 
   spot, and clear the road, but you'll need to be wary of curbs. I crashed 
   once when the curb (or something) grabbed a front pannier.
   3. Structurally, the Tubus traditional lowrider rack felt the most 
   secure and rigid, but they require a lowrider braze-on (urge, no P-clamps) 
   that a lot of forks don't have
   4. Although still fully functional, the Nitto and VO racks flex 
   laterally, especially under heavier loads.
   5. A positive for the non-traditional Nitto and VO lowrider racks is 
   they are two-in-one, so you can sit a front bag or basket on top.
   6. Be aware that the VO rack has an odd lowrider size that didn't really 
   agree with Ortlieb bags (small or large), as it was impossible to find a 
   good perch for the non-elastic stabilizer hook used throughout the Ortlieb 
   pannier line.

Generally speaking, front loading works for me. One thing I did notice and 
do not like is that you need to retain some resemblance of left-right load 
balancing for front loading, unlike rear loading. Once, I had it unbalanced 
(probably by <4 pounds), and was too lazy to move things around. After 
30-odd miles, my shoulders became knotted and sore. Be forewarned! I do 
enjoy being able to pedal off saddle much easier with front load-only 
versus any permutation with a rear load.

On steel versus aluminum, having owned both, it's steel for me. For one 
thing, I've never seen aluminum lowrider racks until your link to the Salsa 
rack; I wonder how rigid they are, with the tubes having relatively small 
diameter and being tubular. For another, aluminum racks of sufficient 
strength tend to appear bulky to me (thinking of Topeak racks, which are 
fully-functional and reasonably priced). Plus you can chrome or 
nickel-plate steel racks to make them pretty and durable. I know, mostly 
aesthetics, and especially irrelevant as racks are mostly covered by bags 
anyway.

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[RBW] Re: When Life Gives...

[dougP]

Are you sure that bike is up to carrying that load?  :-)

doug

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 7:34:35 PM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Dave Johnston]

Actually after reviewing the picture I take it back. A big 700c might not 
fit under the hoop on the Smarti.

-Dave J

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:28:05 AM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
> with weight distribution. 
> What do you all like? 
> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>  (which has the hoop). $120
> Salsa Down Under Rack 
> . 
> Aluminum. $65
> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>
> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Dave Johnston]

What size Joe is this? If it's a 700c model I think you could use a Tubus 
Smarti, to the braze ons. If its another size you can use the smarti onto 
the canti's which is what it is designed for.

Here is a pic on a 650b Joe, but the struts aren't level but usable. I 
think it would work better on a 700c model.


-Dave J

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:28:05 AM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
> with weight distribution. 
> What do you all like? 
> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>  (which has the hoop). $120
> Salsa Down Under Rack 
> . 
> Aluminum. $65
> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>
> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Don Compton]

I am so happy this bike is not my size(58 0r 60cm)

On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 8:48:37 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> no affiliation. just thought some would be interested.
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Rambouillet-Road-Bicycle-62cm-Excellent-Condition/292587804128?hash=item441f9795e0:g:DSUAAOSwj0RbEVa9
>

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Garth]

Thank you Clayton .   I have one bike that I use WL Clean Ride with and 
have for 4 years or so. Before that I used Squirt water based wax lube. It 
was much thicker but in the end I found no real world difference in wear of 
chains or cog teeth.  

So, I'm gonna try just a surface cleaning of the outside of the chains and 
then CR. Like you, I found removing factory lube a bad idea. I prefer not 
cleaning a chain at all .  FWIW, with CR I found the only way to not waste 
it is to position the rear derailler in a small cog/small chainring 
position, so the chain is at an angle. I place a piece of cardboard next to 
the spokes and a rag underneath. I use a copper wire end and slightly 
enlarge the tip of the bottle, or else it tends to stream sporadically. 
Then I rotate the chain backwards while just TILTING the bottle to get a 
thin stream between the jockey wheels on the chain, rotate about 12-15 
times which is enough to saturate the chain but not be dripping all over. A 
few drips is alright. Then I just let it dry overnight, I don't even bother 
wiping it off, I suppose I could, I guess I forget about it. I probably get 
anywhere between 120-150 miles I suppose on it as-is. It seems better in 
warm weather. I only wipe it off before a relube.  I may get a very small 
amount of build up between the 13-15t small cogs, but a screw driver 
removes it fine.  A clean "looking" chain I don't care about, just a 
working chain is fine with me. 

I bought the quart sized a number of years ago and I have yet to use it 
all. It was maybe $26 at the time. The tops of the bottles come off, you 
may need some pliers held gently, then a small funnel to fill . As you 
know   shake shake shake those bottles !  



On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 7:52:05 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>
> Garth, I'm still in the 'trying out the Clean Lube phase". I degreased my 
> chain with citrus degreaser, but not by soaking it. I brushed it on with a 
> stiff brush while on the bike, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. That 
> left most of the factory grease intact in the rollers, but removed the 
> exterior grease. I washed the drive chain again with Dawn dish soap, let it 
> dry and lubed it with the White Lightening clean lube. I re-lube every two 
> or three rides off road (with lots of rag wipe down afterward) and less 
> often on road. So far, my drivetrain is staying very clean, but I am going 
> to measure my chain for stretch more often until I have some confidence in 
> the lube. Keeping all crap out of the pins and rollers interface is most 
> important for preventing chain stretch, and by leaving the factory grease 
> in there, it keeps dirt out. The heavy viscosity of the grease prevents pin 
> and roller contact. Chains last longer. Keeping the exterior of the chain 
> grit free, helps prevent cog and chainring wear. The problem is how to do 
> both, so I am trying this out, "Semi-degreasing". Eventually, the interior 
> grease while be depleted and replaced by the dry lube. 
>
> I have a question that I have pondered for a long time..Does the build 
> up of the solids, from the semi-clean dry lubes on the cogs prevent wear? I 
> looked at my cog set right at the bearing surface of the teeth, and there 
> was a black hard-ish coating from using a dry lube.  Excessive grunge and 
> grit is bad, but where is the exact line of cleanliness to provide maximum 
> drive train life? Without exterior lube on the rollers, do the chainrings 
> and cogs wear quicker? Wear less? 
>   
> The White Lightening clean lube is thin and makes a bit of a mess during 
> application. Dripping it on each link does not work. I go through it much 
> quicker than the dry lube, both because of the runny viscosity but also the 
> need to reapply much more often, which could get expensive. It makes no 
> sense to use forty dollars of chain lube trying to lengthen the life of my 
> forty dollar chain, but I hope to hell it prevents premature wear of my 
> absurdly expensive cog set. I have yet to decide if I like it, but plan on 
> using it on all three bikes this summer for a thorough test. I have two to 
> go through and clean yet. They have much cheaper drive trains and can wait. 
> I have been too busy riding. 
>
> Clayton
> #DirtDance
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 2:48:14 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>>
>>
>> Clayton, do you apply the WL Clean Ride over a factory lubed , wiped 
>> down, chain ?(ridden a few miles or not)  Cleaning the chain prior I always 
>> have to reapply often at first as the first applications simply do get 
>> INSIDE the chain and it squeaks quickly at first.   If I didn't have to 
>> clean the darn chain before using Clean Ride I'd still use it on both 
>> bikes, I simply prefer to never clean a chain, I've done it so many times I 
>> just enough. 
>>
>> I assumed it would create a mess but never bothered trying it that way. 
>>
>>
>> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:03:49 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>>>
>>> White lightening cl

Re: [RBW] Re: WTB or WTT: choco-moose

[cbone97]

Hello Kai.  I found my Riv receipt that says the albas are 55 cm.  The 
stems are both Nitto G282 with 110 length, 80 mm height - looks like the 
one shown below, including the box - only one is missing the bolt.   I had 
forgotten I inserted one on a bike forever ago so it will have some grease 
on it, but it was not used.Hope we can work something out; let me know.

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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Flat Bottom Backpack

[cbone97]

amazon carries a ton of the Fjallraven brand, of which many/most have flat 
bottoms.  tons of color, size, pocket options.  the "kanken" model, at 
least, has a water bottle sleeve that I like because it's all fabric and 
not that black mesh stuff.  good luck.

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Mark's Hub Area Rack, hoopless

[Abcyclehank]

Sean
Tried to send DM with pics.  Where are you located to calculate accurate 
shipping.

Ryan 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Joe Bunik]

or my $37 Roadeo

On 6/4/18, Belopsky  wrote:
> Yep, that would have been a heck of a deal. Almost as good as a Sam I got
> for $650..
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 6:37:02 PM UTC-4, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> It was $745 BIN yesterday, unless I was mistaken.
>>
>> Damn it, probably should have clicked that. Oh well!
>>
>> On 6/4/18, Belopsky > wrote:
>> > Misleading thread. $745 is the starting bid.
>> >
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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Garth, I'm still in the 'trying out the Clean Lube phase". I degreased my 
chain with citrus degreaser, but not by soaking it. I brushed it on with a 
stiff brush while on the bike, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. That 
left most of the factory grease intact in the rollers, but removed the 
exterior grease. I washed the drive chain again with Dawn dish soap, let it 
dry and lubed it with the White Lightening clean lube. I re-lube every two 
or three rides off road (with lots of rag wipe down afterward) and less 
often on road. So far, my drivetrain is staying very clean, but I am going 
to measure my chain for stretch more often until I have some confidence in 
the lube. Keeping all crap out of the pins and rollers interface is most 
important for preventing chain stretch, and by leaving the factory grease 
in there, it keeps dirt out. The heavy viscosity of the grease prevents pin 
and roller contact. Chains last longer. Keeping the exterior of the chain 
grit free, helps prevent cog and chainring wear. The problem is how to do 
both, so I am trying this out, "Semi-degreasing". Eventually, the interior 
grease while be depleted and replaced by the dry lube. 

I have a question that I have pondered for a long time..Does the build 
up of the solids, from the semi-clean dry lubes on the cogs prevent wear? I 
looked at my cog set right at the bearing surface of the teeth, and there 
was a black hard-ish coating from using a dry lube.  Excessive grunge and 
grit is bad, but where is the exact line of cleanliness to provide maximum 
drive train life? Without exterior lube on the rollers, do the chainrings 
and cogs wear quicker? Wear less? 
  
The White Lightening clean lube is thin and makes a bit of a mess during 
application. Dripping it on each link does not work. I go through it much 
quicker than the dry lube, both because of the runny viscosity but also the 
need to reapply much more often, which could get expensive. It makes no 
sense to use forty dollars of chain lube trying to lengthen the life of my 
forty dollar chain, but I hope to hell it prevents premature wear of my 
absurdly expensive cog set. I have yet to decide if I like it, but plan on 
using it on all three bikes this summer for a thorough test. I have two to 
go through and clean yet. They have much cheaper drive trains and can wait. 
I have been too busy riding. 

Clayton
#DirtDance



On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 2:48:14 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
> Clayton, do you apply the WL Clean Ride over a factory lubed , wiped down, 
> chain ?(ridden a few miles or not)  Cleaning the chain prior I always have 
> to reapply often at first as the first applications simply do get INSIDE 
> the chain and it squeaks quickly at first.   If I didn't have to clean the 
> darn chain before using Clean Ride I'd still use it on both bikes, I simply 
> prefer to never clean a chain, I've done it so many times I just enough. 
>
> I assumed it would create a mess but never bothered trying it that way. 
>
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:03:49 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>>
>> White lightening clean lube after every two or three rides with a good 
>> chain wipe down, keeps my chain very clean. I have a very 'spensive cog set 
>> that I can't afford to replace at three hundred plus dollars. (It was a 
>> gift from my son). One thing I have learned after thirty years, is don't 
>> degrease your new chain. Chains last much longer with the factory grease 
>> inside the rollers. True story.   
>>
>> Clayton
>> #DirtDance
>>
>> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>>
>>> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
>>> waxing cloth!)
>>>
>>> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. 
>>>  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about 
>>> the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How 
>>> much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what 
>>> kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Belopsky]

Yep, that would have been a heck of a deal. Almost as good as a Sam I got 
for $650..

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 6:37:02 PM UTC-4, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> It was $745 BIN yesterday, unless I was mistaken. 
>
> Damn it, probably should have clicked that. Oh well! 
>
> On 6/4/18, Belopsky > wrote: 
> > Misleading thread. $745 is the starting bid. 
> > 
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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Ron Mc]

guess I'll say it again.  My method is working great.  I clean with mineral 
spirits followed by denatured alcohol.  
You end up with a chain that doesn't even smell like mineral spirits.  
My logic was extending the half-pound of wax for as many chains as 
possible.  When you clean with mineral spirits, you're removing the old 
wax, and you don't want to put mineral spirits into your fresh wax bath.  

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[eddietheflay]

chain cleaning. I wonder if the last step is best done with alcohol rather 
than mineral oil? Wouldn't you want the surface dry and not with any 
petroleum product left on it before you bathe it in hot wax?

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
> waxing cloth!)
>
> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. 
>  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about 
> the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How 
> much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what 
> kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Visibility is certainly a good idea. I like to wear one of those 
construction worker vests when I commute; they are generally better made 
and cheaper than the cycling specific visibility vests. 
But I don't necessarily subscribe to the "lower-than-average-speeds" 
approach. For most close quarters city riding, I generally prefer getting 
in the traffic stream whenever possible--it's much safer than hugging 
parked cars and letting trucks whiz by you, hoping nobody opens a door. 
Defensive sure, but riding timidly in traffic has its own pitfalls. 
Assertive but friendly. Predictable but expecting other to be 
unpredictable. Scanning ahead and occasionally behind. Not worrying too 
much about safety but generally obeying traffic rules. Enjoying your senses.

I favor a step-through or mixte frame with upright bars, wider tires, flat 
pedals, some combo of rack, basket, panniers, bell, lights, fenders, rear 
view mirror. So in the Riv line-up a Cheviot or a Clem L. Otherwise a mixte 
or women's frame with the aforementioned components and accessories.

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 11:30:55 AM UTC-4, John W wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking a lot about safety, and about what it means to 
> “underbike” in the city, in the name of keeping oneself purposely at 
> lower-than-average speeds and maximally visible to pedestrians and cars. 
>
> Naturally, most of this is in the hands of the cyclist. The best safety is 
> defensive cycling. 
>
> That said, as I consider a Riv purchase within the next year, I’m 
> centering my decision of the frame and build kit around what would make for 
> an enjoyable cycling experience in the city while also reinforcing the 
> thought of, “Hey: slow down, be seen, be slow. Ride your bike, but don’t be 
> a cyclist.” 
>
> Yes, this is an indulgence. But if anyone who overthought this as much as 
> I’m doing, I’d welcome suggestions or thoughts of what worked for you. I’m 
> ruling out single speeds due to cranky knees. But gearing and handlebar 
> choices are in play. So, too are frames. I’m thinking either a Sam or 
> Atlantis might fit the bill. 
>
> I know I could strap a cinderblock to my bike. That sure would slow me 
> down. But this is all about creating a fun bike that’s purpose built for 
> this task. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Bill Lindsay]

I ponied up $50 for 3 pounds, so I can kick off a long term experiment with 
El Cerrito High School Mountain Bike Racing.  Most of the racers' new 
chains get bought and installed by me, so I'm going to get set up to 
convert several racers to Molten Speed Wax.  The kids are not super 
disciplined about lubing their chains to the durability and low friction 
claims could be big wins for us.  If we don't win the California State 
Championship in 2019 I'll come after Patrick Moore for a $50 refund.  

Coach Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito Gauchos

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 6:36:44 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I didn't have good results with plain paraffin after several years of 
> using it, though others have said they get very good results. But last year 
> I started to use "Molten Speed Wax" which seems to work much better despite 
> its stupid name.
>
> "Better" means that the chain is quiet for at least 200 miles while riding 
> in deepish, silty, dusty sand, longer on pavement, of course; and I'm 
> hoping to get longer chain life than the ~2K miles I got with plain 
> paraffin. And while the chain stays quiet, the surface of the chain stays 
> clean, and there is no buildup of gunk on the cassette and derailleur 
> pulleys.
>
> $20/lb from Amazon.
>
> On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 5:54 AM, Michael Hechmer  > wrote:
>
>> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
>> waxing cloth!)
>>
>> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax.  
>> I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about the 
>> experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How much 
>> longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what kind 
>> of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>>
>> Michael
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Joe Bunik]

It was $745 BIN yesterday, unless I was mistaken.

Damn it, probably should have clicked that. Oh well!

On 6/4/18, Belopsky  wrote:
> Misleading thread. $745 is the starting bid.
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Belopsky]

Misleading thread. $745 is the starting bid.

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Garth]

Safety and well being ... like Health ... isn't "made" , it just IS what IS 
is.. it's as natural as natural can be.  It cannot even be expressed in 
any words .  How do you express "Infinity" in words  ?Hah !   It 
doesn't matter of course  the end is the same as the beginning, the 
first the same as the last, here the same as there  everywhere and 
no-where   All is Each and Each is All.   *Awesomethin' wonderful !* 
   

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Garth]

Clayton, do you apply the WL Clean Ride over a factory lubed , wiped down, 
chain ?(ridden a few miles or not)  Cleaning the chain prior I always have 
to reapply often at first as the first applications simply do get INSIDE 
the chain and it squeaks quickly at first.   If I didn't have to clean the 
darn chain before using Clean Ride I'd still use it on both bikes, I simply 
prefer to never clean a chain, I've done it so many times I just enough. 

I assumed it would create a mess but never bothered trying it that way. 


On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:03:49 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>
> White lightening clean lube after every two or three rides with a good 
> chain wipe down, keeps my chain very clean. I have a very 'spensive cog set 
> that I can't afford to replace at three hundred plus dollars. (It was a 
> gift from my son). One thing I have learned after thirty years, is don't 
> degrease your new chain. Chains last much longer with the factory grease 
> inside the rollers. True story.   
>
> Clayton
> #DirtDance
>
> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
>> waxing cloth!)
>>
>> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. 
>>  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about 
>> the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How 
>> much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what 
>> kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>>
>> Michael
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another chain question

[Patrick Moore]

Michael: perhaps the difference is how free of grit chain is. I stopped
using "oily" lube long ago, replacing it with paraffin, Pro Link, Purple
Extreme, and the Orange Seal lube. These aren't nearly as clean as Molten
Speed Wax (stupid name, great product), but they don't attract grit, and
that seems to be the difference between balky masterlinks and easy finger
removal. At any rate, I used 8 and 9 speed SRAMs for years and had not
problem removing the links by hand.

Again, hand-release for SRAM links applies to 9 speed and earlier; 10 speed
very definitely requires those special pliers.

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 1:57 PM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> I have never, ever been able to remove a Sram quick link by hand. In fact
> I can hardly open them with pliers. I have never failed to open a connex
> quick link by hand. So far I'm getting mixed reviews 0n the KMC, ranging
> from the RBW "best ever" to the LBS, "somewhere between Sram & Connex."
>  Will a connex quick link work in a KMC chain?  I don't know.  Meanwhile
> Wipperman appears to be phasing out my long time favorite $40 908 chain and
> replacing it with a $70 stainless version.  They still have both on their
> web site but retailers are no longer listing the 908  and most appear to
> have a single 9SX in stock.
>
> Michael
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 10:40:25 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I've had very few problems removing SRAM masterlinks for 9 speed chains
>> by hand; KMCs were a bit more finicky. I was surprised to find that I
>> needed the pliers-like took for the 10 speed SRAM masterlinks, but I was
>> told that SRAM deliberately changed the design with the 10 speed chains to
>> make them harder to remove.
>>
>> The only problems I've had with the earlier-than-10-speed SRAM links was
>> grit; flushing with, say, WD-40 solved the problem.
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 4:08 AM, Garth  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I have used Sram chains for a long time and the quick link always worked
>>> as intended by hand. I just started using KMC chains and their quick link
>>> seems to also work just fine by hand. What a coincidence ! Wipe any lube
>>> off the area if present, squeeze tbe quick link and push inwards, and it'll
>>> open as intended.
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Cheviot 60cm Frame

[Clayton.sf]

Price drop. $900 shipped to CONUS. All else remains the same ;-).

Best,
Clayton Scott
SF, CA

On Friday, June 1, 2018 at 10:03:44 AM UTC-7, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> For sale is a 60cm orange Cheviot frame plus headset. Happy to add the 
> stock seatpost and bb if you want them too (never used them).
> Frame is in excellent near mint condition, straight, and frame-savered.
>
> $970 plus shipping via bikeflights or pickup in SF. 
>
> More pictures on request.
>
> If you want to make this more of a complete I have a bunch of bars, 
> fenders, cranks, shifters, etc. to help you along the way that we can 
> discuss over PM.
>
> Best,
> Clayton Scott
> SF, CA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

I had a strong week, finishing out 120 mi with the available time, and been 
working on my cooling since the oppressive humidity arrived about a month 
ago.  
It's kind of an unwritten rule when we start out and coast down the long 
grade, nobody pedals until it goes flat, and if they do, they become an 
instant target.  Normal group is 30 to 40 riders.  We naturally break into 
groups by pace, and the lead group breaks out going into downtown for the 
final sprint across Chavez to the Alamodome.  


It's a fun outing among friends, and we go for coffee afterwards.  Aside 
from the friends, a big part of what makes this so fun is downtown streets 
are virtually deserted on Sunday mornings at 7am, and when you get into the 
downtown blocks, 20 mph clicks all the lights same as cars.  .  


On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 3:29:43 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thanks, Ron. There’s a reason I only race trees. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 

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[RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Leslie]

Positive points for spelling Keven's name right, but then points lost for 
not getting Petersen and Roadeo right



On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 11:48:37 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> no affiliation. just thought some would be interested.
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Rambouillet-Road-Bicycle-62cm-Excellent-Condition/292587804128?hash=item441f9795e0:g:DSUAAOSwj0RbEVa9
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Ron. There’s a reason I only race trees. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick 

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Michael Hechmer]

OP here.  Let me try to summarize what I am learning.  My current practice 
is to remove the chain when dirty, soak it in mineral spirits in a used 1 
qt yogurt container.  After a few minutes I swish it around, take it out, 
and then, depending on how energetic I feel, either take a brush to it or 
wipe it down, then put it in a second yogurt container and repeat the 
process.  Take it out, wipe it down, reinstall it, lube it, wipe it down 
lots more.

What I'm reading I should do is buy an ultrasound machine & two pots,  then 
clean it much the same as I have been, except adding a third cycle with 
mineral oil. (How to clean the ultrasound pots is yet to be learned). Buy 
an inexpensive crock pot and waxing supplies.  Boil them up, wax the chain, 
let it cool, install and ride away.

Presumably this process wont have to be done nearly as often and I wont 
have chain tattoos on my leg.   I would like that but I would groan 
whenever it needed redoing.

If I were young enough to justify buying a new bike, it would be titanium 
with a Rohloff hub and a Gates drive belt!

Michael

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:03:49 PM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>
> White lightening clean lube after every two or three rides with a good 
> chain wipe down, keeps my chain very clean. I have a very 'spensive cog set 
> that I can't afford to replace at three hundred plus dollars. (It was a 
> gift from my son). One thing I have learned after thirty years, is don't 
> degrease your new chain. Chains last much longer with the factory grease 
> inside the rollers. True story.   
>
> Clayton
> #DirtDance
>
> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
>> waxing cloth!)
>>
>> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. 
>>  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about 
>> the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How 
>> much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what 
>> kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>>
>> Michael
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

the torque of pedaling transfers weight to the rear (think about rear squat 
when you accelerate a car).  Anything you can do to get weight up front 
makes you roll more efficiently.  When you're pedaling hard, you get a core 
muscle advantage, also, and I beat John in last Sunday's sprint in the last 
quarter-mile getting way forward on the drops (maybe only the 4th time I've 
beaten him).  
But in the simplest free-roll comparison when nobody has enough speed for 
aerodynamics to matter, you see an instant effect getting weight up front.  

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 2:56:48 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Deac, I'll add that you get the effect even when you have a tailwind 
> that's out gunning you, and you're making yourself a smaller sail by 
> getting more weight up front.  
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 2:52:40 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> totally 100% sure on this one Deac.  
>>
>> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:28:42 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> “Any riding position that adds weight to the rear wheel slows you down. 
>>> . If you want to demonstrate this (we start a 7-mile sprint every Sunday 
>>> morning down a 2-mile hill), free-coast with your friends down a hill.  The 
>>> more weight you get on the front wheel, the more efficiently you'll roll.” 
>>>
>>> Ron, you sure wind resistance doesn’t explain most or all of the the 
>>> effeciency roll test? Have you tried shifting your weight back AND staying 
>>> in a deep tuck? 
>>>
>>> With abandon, 
>>> Patrick, who appreciates the air brake effect on fixed gear downhills, 
>>> and also the rear weighted tuck into headwind descents on loose stuff.  
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another chain question

[Michael Hechmer]

I have never, ever been able to remove a Sram quick link by hand. In fact I 
can hardly open them with pliers. I have never failed to open a connex 
quick link by hand. So far I'm getting mixed reviews 0n the KMC, ranging 
from the RBW "best ever" to the LBS, "somewhere between Sram & Connex." 
 Will a connex quick link work in a KMC chain?  I don't know.  Meanwhile 
Wipperman appears to be phasing out my long time favorite $40 908 chain and 
replacing it with a $70 stainless version.  They still have both on their 
web site but retailers are no longer listing the 908  and most appear to 
have a single 9SX in stock.

Michael

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 10:40:25 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I've had very few problems removing SRAM masterlinks for 9 speed chains by 
> hand; KMCs were a bit more finicky. I was surprised to find that I needed 
> the pliers-like took for the 10 speed SRAM masterlinks, but I was told that 
> SRAM deliberately changed the design with the 10 speed chains to make them 
> harder to remove.
>
> The only problems I've had with the earlier-than-10-speed SRAM links was 
> grit; flushing with, say, WD-40 solved the problem.
>
> On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 4:08 AM, Garth > 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I have used Sram chains for a long time and the quick link always worked 
>> as intended by hand. I just started using KMC chains and their quick link 
>> seems to also work just fine by hand. What a coincidence ! Wipe any lube 
>> off the area if present, squeeze tbe quick link and push inwards, and it'll 
>> open as intended.  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hanging edeluxe from fork crown mount possible?

[Lum Gim Fong]

I have Tektro R559 long reach sidepulls.
IRD rollerdrive headset.
It might be worth a try.
Those IQX lights are nice in that it has up or down option for mounting.
But my edeluxe is only one way, though I have heard you can rotate the innards 
in the casing. But I don’t want to violate my warranty.

They are fine on the bars. Just thinking of if I wanna put the bar bag on the 
bike one day.

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

Deac, I'll add that you get the effect even when you have a tailwind that's 
out gunning you, and you're making yourself a smaller sail by getting more 
weight up front.  

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 2:52:40 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> totally 100% sure on this one Deac.  
>
> On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:28:42 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> “Any riding position that adds weight to the rear wheel slows you down. . 
>> If you want to demonstrate this (we start a 7-mile sprint every Sunday 
>> morning down a 2-mile hill), free-coast with your friends down a hill.  The 
>> more weight you get on the front wheel, the more efficiently you'll roll.” 
>>
>> Ron, you sure wind resistance doesn’t explain most or all of the the 
>> effeciency roll test? Have you tried shifting your weight back AND staying 
>> in a deep tuck? 
>>
>> With abandon, 
>> Patrick, who appreciates the air brake effect on fixed gear downhills, 
>> and also the rear weighted tuck into headwind descents on loose stuff.  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

totally 100% sure on this one Deac.  

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 1:28:42 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> “Any riding position that adds weight to the rear wheel slows you down. . 
> If you want to demonstrate this (we start a 7-mile sprint every Sunday 
> morning down a 2-mile hill), free-coast with your friends down a hill.  The 
> more weight you get on the front wheel, the more efficiently you'll roll.” 
>
> Ron, you sure wind resistance doesn’t explain most or all of the the 
> effeciency roll test? Have you tried shifting your weight back AND staying 
> in a deep tuck? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick, who appreciates the air brake effect on fixed gear downhills, and 
> also the rear weighted tuck into headwind descents on loose stuff.  

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[RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[iamkeith]

On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 5:46:10 PM UTC-6, Eric Karnes wrote:
>
> This is indeed tempting, and exactly my size. Anyone know the max tire 
> that can fit on an orange Rambouillet?
>
>>
>>>


For what it's worth, that's not really an 'orange' Rambouillet.  It's a 
'blue' one with a custom paint job.  AND custom front fork rack braze ons!  
 So it likely has more tire clearance than the earlier orange ones, however 
I don't think that would affect Jonathan's answer of 38, or 33 with fenders.

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[lambbo]

CHEVIUT
2 or 3 Bells
Boscos
38's with fenders
Constantly running front and back running lights via Dynamo hub

This is my NYC rig and it couldn't be safer or more fun, IMO.

Step-Thru adding to safety shouldn't be overlooked...every time I have to 
slam the brakes and put my feet on the ground I'm thankful. 

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Steven Seelig]

I live in DC, and my city bike is a Ram, as pictured.  Sure its a bit 
lighter and perhaps racier than the other bikes noted, but it is the bike 
best suited for all situations for me.  What makes it a City bike is 
perhaps the thing that does not make it a country bike - the grips and the 
brakes are in the same place at the end of the bars.  There is no "other" 
racier hand position to take, because the trade-off is that my brake handle 
and shifter are always nearby.  There is never a question of needing the 
shift positions or worry about my current position in the event of an 
emergency, or which there are about one every 30 seconds in the City.  

The pizza rack in front also denotes city bike because I can actually grab 
a pizza on my way home, or tote whatever I might need from the local 
market.  I also get to go pretty fast when I want to or can.  Keeping up 
with traffic is pretty important to me when possible, so having a bike that 
can get to 20 mph (okay with a downhill) is important to me.

Your mileage may vary.

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 11:30:55 AM UTC-4, John W wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking a lot about safety, and about what it means to 
> “underbike” in the city, in the name of keeping oneself purposely at 
> lower-than-average speeds and maximally visible to pedestrians and cars. 
>
> Naturally, most of this is in the hands of the cyclist. The best safety is 
> defensive cycling. 
>
> That said, as I consider a Riv purchase within the next year, I’m 
> centering my decision of the frame and build kit around what would make for 
> an enjoyable cycling experience in the city while also reinforcing the 
> thought of, “Hey: slow down, be seen, be slow. Ride your bike, but don’t be 
> a cyclist.” 
>
> Yes, this is an indulgence. But if anyone who overthought this as much as 
> I’m doing, I’d welcome suggestions or thoughts of what worked for you. I’m 
> ruling out single speeds due to cranky knees. But gearing and handlebar 
> choices are in play. So, too are frames. I’m thinking either a Sam or 
> Atlantis might fit the bill. 
>
> I know I could strap a cinderblock to my bike. That sure would slow me 
> down. But this is all about creating a fun bike that’s purpose built for 
> this task. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Tim Gavin]

Justin-

I can't imagine that the struts sit level.  What bag do you mount, and how?

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 1:12 PM, Justin, Oakland 
wrote:

> I am able to flip the struts on my Tubus Tara upside down and they attach
> to my Saluki’s Nitto-spec braze ons nearly perfectly. This may not work on
> a fork with a longer axle to crown.
>
> -J
>
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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Deacon Patrick]

“Any riding position that adds weight to the rear wheel slows you down. . If 
you want to demonstrate this (we start a 7-mile sprint every Sunday morning 
down a 2-mile hill), free-coast with your friends down a hill.  The more weight 
you get on the front wheel, the more efficiently you'll roll.”

Ron, you sure wind resistance doesn’t explain most or all of the the effeciency 
roll test? Have you tried shifting your weight back AND staying in a deep tuck?

With abandon,
Patrick, who appreciates the air brake effect on fixed gear downhills, and also 
the rear weighted tuck into headwind descents on loose stuff.  

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[RBW] Re: Flat Bottom Backpack

[Eli Queen]

I have a North Street backpack. It's great. Really nicely made, and has a 
flat bottom:

https://northstbags.com/collections/belmont

They make bigger ones, and convertible (to pannier) models, but I like the 
simplicity of the one above.

Good luck,
Eli

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[RBW] Re: Hanging edeluxe from fork crown mount possible?

[John W]

It'll depend on the size of your headset and the type of brakes you're 
using.

I used a B&M mount that way once, when I had side pull caliper brakes. It 
worked but it was much less than optimal. I had to bend the arms to clear 
the bottom of the headset and the top of the TRP957 brakes. I'd guess the 
cantilevers or center pull brakes would've made this slightly easier.

You'll find some helpful information here:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php


On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 10:52:18 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Recently removed my front rack and fenders for my Rambouillet and 
> currently have my hanging edeLux mounted to my handlebars. But I was 
> wondering is it possible to mount it to the Fork Crown?   Will that work 
> with one of those edeluxe long fork mount arms brackets that riv sells and 
> their lighting section? I don’t know if that thing is tall enough or not 
> and sticks out far enough or not. The Shorty is definitely too short. 
> Anyone done this? If I can do it it’ll prevent me from having to buy 
> another headlight one day and I can move the light from the bars to the 
> fork crown so I can use my barssck in winter.

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Justin, Oakland]

I am able to flip the struts on my Tubus Tara upside down and they attach to my 
Saluki’s Nitto-spec braze ons nearly perfectly. This may not work on a fork 
with a longer axle to crown.

-J

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Madam Xylene]

I notice when I’m in more street type clothes (compass knickers)usually with 
bright knee socks on my big upright cheviut cars stop or yield to me more. For 
darkness I have lots of reflective tape on fenders and frame plus lights  and 
wear reflective vest.
Eileen 

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

White lightening clean lube after every two or three rides with a good 
chain wipe down, keeps my chain very clean. I have a very 'spensive cog set 
that I can't afford to replace at three hundred plus dollars. (It was a 
gift from my son). One thing I have learned after thirty years, is don't 
degrease your new chain. Chains last much longer with the factory grease 
inside the rollers. True story.   

Clayton
#DirtDance

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except 
> waxing cloth!)
>
> After 40+ years of cleaning and lubing chains I may be ready to try wax. 
>  I recently got a recipe & process on the tandem list but wondered about 
> the experience of people on this list.  How much extra work is it?  How 
> much longer does it last than "dry lubes?"  Does it make a difference what 
> kind of environment you ride in, eg, Santa Fe vs Seattle?
>
> Michael
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 62 Rambouillet 745$ complete bike ebay

[Tommy Patterson]

I'll be interested to see how high this auction runs, what do Rambos
typically sell for?

On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 8:39 PM, Jonathan D.  wrote:

> I believe 38s. I have 33 JBs with fenders on mine. At least compass Bon
> Jons
>
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[RBW] Hot waxing chains?

[Justin, Oakland]

This just came up on Instagram: https://instagram.com/p/BjkQr4VgsK7/
https://wendperformance.com/buy-online/wend-wax-on


The convenience factor is huge. 

-J

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Ron Mc]

I extend my 700 mi/ hotwax with bottled wax lube.  My experience with these 
is not to use the weather resistant type, because they are tenacious and 
difficult to remove completely later.  White Lightning Clean Ride is my 
choice - it gets me another 100 mi/ application.  I've also tried Pedros, 
different Finish Line grades.  

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 9:39:39 AM UTC-5, Tom Norton wrote:
>
> A question from a newbie. As we are touring cyclists I am considering the 
> waxing route. But wondering how to deal with "relubing" while on tour? We 
> have a 2 month European tour coming up. 
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Edwin W]

Ah-ha! I found the answer:

Norther Bikes has already made one for a Rivendell Atlantis.

And they made Jan's setup for his Mule.
http://www.northercycles.com/custom-racks/

And it costs $699.

Not quite ready for that level of commitment yet...

Edwin 

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[RBW] Hanging edeluxe from fork crown mount possible?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Recently removed my front rack and fenders for my Rambouillet and currently 
have my hanging edeLux mounted to my handlebars. But I was wondering is it 
possible to mount it to the Fork Crown?   Will that work with one of those 
edeluxe long fork mount arms brackets that riv sells and their lighting 
section? I don’t know if that thing is tall enough or not and sticks out far 
enough or not. The Shorty is definitely too short. Anyone done this? If I can 
do it it’ll prevent me from having to buy another headlight one day and I can 
move the light from the bars to the fork crown so I can use my barssck in 
winter.

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[RBW] Re: Flat Bottom Backpack

[Sean Kline]

I bought and never used a flat bottomed In Line Equipment front rack bag 
(w/shoulder strap and lots of room and pockets) that I’m willing to sell:

https://ilequipment.com/products/velo-orange-pass-stow-rackbag

It’s a great bag but I decided I just needed a very simple Wild basket for 
around town errands and farmers market-ing, rather than such a multi-function 
bagel coupled with a VO Porteur Rack, which I should also liberate from the 
garage where it sits unused.

Cheers,
Sean

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another chain question

[Patrick Moore]

I've had very few problems removing SRAM masterlinks for 9 speed chains by
hand; KMCs were a bit more finicky. I was surprised to find that I needed
the pliers-like took for the 10 speed SRAM masterlinks, but I was told that
SRAM deliberately changed the design with the 10 speed chains to make them
harder to remove.

The only problems I've had with the earlier-than-10-speed SRAM links was
grit; flushing with, say, WD-40 solved the problem.

On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 4:08 AM, Garth  wrote:

>
> I have used Sram chains for a long time and the quick link always worked
> as intended by hand. I just started using KMC chains and their quick link
> seems to also work just fine by hand. What a coincidence ! Wipe any lube
> off the area if present, squeeze tbe quick link and push inwards, and it'll
> open as intended.

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Tom Norton]

A question from a newbie. As we are touring cyclists I am considering the 
waxing route. But wondering how to deal with "relubing" while on tour? We have 
a 2 month European tour coming up.

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Re: [RBW] Another chain question

[Tim Gavin]

In my opinion, the Connex quick link is superior to the "SRAM-style" that
KMC uses.  I can open a Connex link easily with my bare hands, but the
KMC/SRAM link requires more force and sometimes a tool.

But they both do their job fine.

Consider keeping the Connex links from your worn out 908 chains and
re-using them?

On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 6:13 AM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> I have been using the Conex 908 chains on all my bikes for many years and
> like both the way they shift and that their quick link works so much better
> than shimano & Sram links.  Now I see that the RBW site describes the KMC
> quick link as "the best."  Most links are pretty easy to put on but hard to
> get off.  Does anyone here have experience with these chains & links? How
> do they stack up to  others.
>
> Michael
>
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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Edwin W]

>
> I like this Bob-ish approach (in german, but I get the point). That's what 
> I call custom!
>
 
http://fahrradzukunft.de/3/packtaschen/
 
Edwin

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Re: [RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

oops - Light & Motion Imjin

On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 8:59:22 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> separate from my bike lighting, I have a Light & Motion Imjun on my helmet
>
> 
>
> I turn it on at wary intersections to look at drivers - from their 
> reaction to the light, I know what they're going to do
>
>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

separate from my bike lighting, I have a Light & Motion Imjun on my helmet



I turn it on at wary intersections to look at drivers - from their reaction 
to the light, I know what they're going to do


On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 8:34:26 AM UTC-5, John W wrote:
>
> I like Justin’s suggestion of the AHH. Or maybe the Atlantis, MIT, as I 
> would fit in the 650b range for both. 
>
> Thanks everyone. I’ve been mulling over a frame for almost a year now, and 
> it’s funny how different life circumstances along the way have changed it 
> all. Good thing I’m not wealthy... I’d easily have three frames by now. 
>
> As I’ve worn through clothing I’ve gradually replaced them with hi-vis. 
> And I started to use day running lights. I’m just trying to eek everything 
> out of “it all helps.”
>
> John 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: shimano cx-70 canti question

[JohnS]

This winter my CX-70's seemed to be dragging against the rim. Upon closer 
inspection I found that the bushing was binding on the brake arm. It is a 
non-serviceable part since it is pressed together, no options to re-grease. 
They came on my QB that I bought used, so I don't know how old they are. 
Could be rust or grit, who knows? Can't take them apart to find out. I 
replaced with Tektro 720's. At least they open and close like they are 
suppose to.

JohnS


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[RBW] PSA 56 Atlantis Portland Oregon

[Christopher Cote]

Very nice! I test rode a 56cm Atlantis at Harris Cyclery circa 2003-2004. I 
wonder if it's the same bike.

Chris "6 degrees of separation?"

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Re: [RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[John Woo]

I like Justin’s suggestion of the AHH. Or maybe the Atlantis, MIT, as I would 
fit in the 650b range for both. 

Thanks everyone. I’ve been mulling over a frame for almost a year now, and it’s 
funny how different life circumstances along the way have changed it all. Good 
thing I’m not wealthy... I’d easily have three frames by now. 

As I’ve worn through clothing I’ve gradually replaced them with hi-vis. And I 
started to use day running lights. I’m just trying to eek everything out of “it 
all helps.”

John 

> On Jun 4, 2018, at 8:44 AM, phil k  wrote:
> 
> I tend to agree, but in a great section of DC with a lot of bike lanes 
> yesterday, a cyclist almost got hit by a car running a red light.
> 
> John, I think you'll be happy with any Riv for your purposes. Now it's just 
> about what ride characteristics you like in a bike.
> 
>> On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 11:58:45 AM UTC-4, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>> 1) I believe your premise to be faulty. In my experience safety for cyclists 
>> in the city comes from good infrastructure, then driver awareness then 
>> cyclist behavior.
>> 2) Any Riv where your hands are above the saddle will give you the relaxed 
>> feeling you seek. I ride a Saluki with MAP bars and can ride both relaxed 
>> and aggressive. The same bike with drop bars set fairly high gave me a 
>> similar feeling. I feel as if the Sam or the AHH are the perfect gateway 
>> bikes. I personally cannot get along with the angle that Albatross and 
>> Billie bars demand my wrists to be at. So I would either wait for the 
>> Wavvvie Gravy bar or buy the Billie/Albatross build kit and then put a 
>> bar with a less parallel to the top tube angle allowing you to reuse stem, 
>> shifters, etc.
>> 
>> -J
>> 
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Banana sax reviews needed. Stuff fall out?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Got the grey grid!
Thanks for the info.
I think it will hold everything I need for spring/summer.
For fall/winter when I need to carry extra tights/wool shirt/jacket, I can use 
my grey grid bar bag to match.

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[RBW] Re: pinching fenders and Quickbeam clearances

[Brad]

I used 50mm Berthoud fenders on my old Quickbeam. They fit perfectly on the 
frame but were a little tight for 45mm Schwalbe Marathons. I had trouble 
keeping the fenders from rubbing the tires and ended up using pliers to 
pinch the rolled edge flat on the rear to get a few millimeters more 
clearance. 35mm Marathons had great clearance.

To make it easier to take the rear wheel off the bike, I threaded button 
head bolts through the eyelets from the inside and held the fender stays 
clamps on with wing nuts. To remove the wheel, I loosed the wingnut enough 
to pull the stays out of the clamp. Once the stays were loose, I had just 
enough flex in the fender to get the wheel out.

I should note, the fender did eventually crack at the seat stay bridge, but 
I think that was mostly because I let my saddle bag (with a chain lock 
inside) ride on the fender (I patched it with a piece of tomato paste can 
and a lot of epoxy and I'm still using those fenders).

In conclusion, Berthoud 50mm fenders fit on a QB and take a shocking amount 
of abuse!

Brad
Queens

On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 12:17:27 PM UTC-4, Patch T wrote:
>
> Hi Bunch,
>
> I've decided to fender the Quickbeam. My first and quite wet Spring here 
> on the East Coast in addition to much encouragement from RBW New Yorkers in 
> a previous thread have been convincing enough.
>
> I understand 45mm wide fenders will fit the Quickbeam; I've used SKS P45 
> before. I can do this, fine, and there are great 700x38 tires out there, 
> sure. But what if I want to run a 40-42mm wide tire? 
>
> I'm curious about 50-52 mm wide fenders. Honjo/Simworks, Honjo/Compass, 
> Velo Orange and SKS all have fenders in this range. I know Pillip 
> Williamson bent and pinched his Zeppelins to squeeze into his QBs 
> chainstays. 
>
> How difficult is this? 
> What other considerations are there? 
> Can you pinch an SKS fender?
> If I did this, will I just end up with the same amount of available tire 
> clearance under the pinched part of the fender?
>
>
> Patch
> BKNY
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[phil k]

I tend to agree, but in a great section of DC with a lot of bike lanes 
yesterday, a cyclist almost got hit by a car running a red light.

John, I think you'll be happy with any Riv for your purposes. Now it's just 
about what ride characteristics you like in a bike.

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 11:58:45 AM UTC-4, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> 1) I believe your premise to be faulty. In my experience safety for 
> cyclists in the city comes from good infrastructure, then driver awareness 
> then cyclist behavior.
>
> 2) Any Riv where your hands are above the saddle will give you the relaxed 
> feeling you seek. I ride a Saluki with MAP bars and can ride both relaxed 
> and aggressive. The same bike with drop bars set fairly high gave me a 
> similar feeling. I feel as if the Sam or the AHH are the perfect gateway 
> bikes. I personally cannot get along with the angle that Albatross and 
> Billie bars demand my wrists to be at. So I would either wait for the 
> Wavvvie Gravy bar or buy the Billie/Albatross build kit and then put a 
> bar with a less parallel to the top tube angle allowing you to reuse stem, 
> shifters, etc. 
>
> -J
>
>

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[RBW] Re: pinching fenders and Quickbeam clearances

[jandrews]

Hey Patch!
I think 38's with fenders are pretty much max on the QB.  Some 40's run a 
little small so that may be doable.
But for NYC, 38's are really perfect.
I rode compass Barlow Pass 38's on my orange QB with SKS fenders and it was 
the perfect pairing for that frame.
I could not run my Soma Supple Vitesse 700x42's with the SKS fenders as 
they were installed without rubbing...perhaps I could've really worked on 
the fender line and pinched plastic here and there...but didn't seem right 
for the frame.
As others have mentioned ...the alu. fenders make it harder to get the 
wheel out without deflating or to adjust the gearing if you''re gonna do 
that.
The SKS can be manipulated pretty easily.
I ran Bruce Gordon RnR's on mine for awhile, which are 700x43, but of 
course without fenders.
Here's pic with SKS and 38's 
Jason S.




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[RBW] Re: What frame and build set make you a safer, slower rider?

[Ron Mc]

Any riding position that adds weight to the rear wheel slows you down. . If 
you want to demonstrate this (we start a 7-mile sprint every Sunday morning 
down a 2-mile hill), free-coast with your friends down a hill.  The more 
weight you get on the front wheel, the more efficiently you'll roll.  

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[RBW] Re: Hot waxing chains?

[Ron Mc]

Adding details to the system idea.  The double boiler using two cheap 
saucepans lets you store your half-pound of molten speed wax in the small 
sauce pan when it resolidifies.  Starting with a clean chain is what lets 
you reuse the half-pound for ten+ chains.  After almost 3 years, I'm still 
on the first half-pound of molten speed wax in the little sauce pan.  
There's still a half-pound of the granulated wax in the bag that it came in 
waiting for its someday need.  


Eddie, my satisfaction is touching the chain on the bike months down the 
road, feeling its slickness, and picking up nothing on your fingers.  

On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 11:41:00 PM UTC-5, eddietheflay wrote:
>
> as a retired person with the cycling hobby, I get a certain amount of 
> satisfaction from doing a relatively quick 4 step cleaning process and then 
> warming up the hot wax in the crock pot and then pushing the chain down 
> into the molten liquid and watching it bubble. have been using the shake 
> jar method first with a couple of rounds of the lovely paint thinner and 
> then one or two rounds with denatured alcohol - a derivation of this:
>
> https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/clean-your-chain
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Another chain question

[Garth]

On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 7:13:07 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> I have been using the Conex 908 chains on all my bikes for many years and 
> like both the way they shift and that their quick link works so much better 
> than shimano & Sram links.  Now I see that the RBW site describes the KMC 
> quick link as "the best."  Most links are pretty easy to put on but hard to 
> get off.  Does anyone here have experience with these chains & links? How do 
> they stack up to  others.
> 
> 
> Michael

I have used Sram chains for a long time and the quick link always worked as 
intended by hand. I just started using KMC chains and their quick link seems to 
also work just fine by hand. What a coincidence ! Wipe any lube off the area if 
present, squeeze tbe quick link and push inwards, and it'll open as intended.  

 I would not switch because a "simon sez this, that or the other". Simon-sez is 
always changing of the mind, no consistency, no Presence, Power. So to follow 
simon-sez would be like trying to steady the flame of a candle in the wind.   
Trust yourself. 

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