[RBW] Re: Wheelie on 18% grade...

[Johan Larsson]

Jobst Brandt on a 30% slope - note that he's still on the big ring...:

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[RBW] Re: In praise of the Big Apple 26"

[Johan Larsson]

When the Big Apples wear out, I can recommend the Super Moto,much like the 
Big Apples but lighter and faster because there's no puncture protection 
layer. So far I have had no problems with my 26"/559 mm tires - there's no 
thorns here, but I do a lot of fast riding on sharp gravel, long sections 
with fist-sized blocky rocks, and tarmac with broken glass. No punctures so 
far, and I'm on the third (or is it maybe the fourth?) year of riding. I 
was planning to buy the Big Apple, but the Super Moto had just been 
available and I went for it.

For me, where I live and ride, puncture protection seems unnecessary for 
tires >42 mm and the lower pressures that comes with them. I once tried 32 
mm thin, lightweight tires without any puncture protection and got 10 
punctures in 14 days (always small glass pieces). With Grand Bois Hetres I 
had one puncture in two or three years under the same riding conditions.

John Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 64 cm Sam Hillborne (orange), mostly complete build

[Johan Larsson]

Ok, meant PBH...

On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 4:50 PM, Mike Shaljian 
wrote:

> I'm 6'3 with a 34 inch inseam and (more importantly) 96 cm PBH. Seatpost
> is maxxed out for me, but the bike fits perfectly!
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 64 cm Sam Hillborne (orange), mostly complete build

[Johan Larsson]

Just out of curiosity, how tall are you, with what inseam?

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Mechanical disadvantage? Seeking joyful braking.

[Johan Larsson]

On Saturday, June 27, 2015 at 6:32:25 PM UTC+2, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> "The lower the straddle cable, the more mechanical advantage - goes for 
> every cantilever brake you will come across." 
>
> True in the mathematical sense. Misleading in the practical sense. Wide, 
> low cantilevers like CR720s and M.A.F.A.C. and others don't change much at 
> all with straddle height. Run them high or run them low, they feel about 
> the same.



Well, I thought that I had already pointed that out, and didn't want to 
repeat my self: "Wide profiles canti brakes have very low mechanical 
advantage, and it doesn't vary much regarding to (useful) yoke heights." 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/5R-gKjhClH8/7G9a0SthaBgJ

This was a response to how the geometry worked, to avoid the stated 
confusion - in general yoke height has the largest effect on brake force 
and feel for cantilever brakes, and it's good to be aware of this simple 
rule.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden
 

> The place where straddle height would make a difference with CR720 is 
> where the straddle is inside the tirewhich causes other problems. 😉 
>

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[RBW] Re: Mechanical disadvantage? Seeking joyful braking.

[Johan Larsson]

On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 7:03:31 PM UTC+2, Alan Pickett wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the responses - I will fiddle a bit more before plunking 
> down any serious money since I don't have to change anything, but I really 
> appreciate the wisdom and perspective of the group. As I understand is, the 
> CR720s as a high profile brake will certainly have less MA, but I''m still 
> a little confused about how one evaluates mechanical advantage regarding 
> levers - is this what is going on when one refers to "short" vs "long" pull?
>

Short pull - road/caliper/centerpull brakes and cantilever brake levers - 
pulls about 7 mm cable for a full squeeze of the brake lever according to a 
fast internet search.
Long pull - V-brakes and mechanical MTB disc brake levers - pulls about 15 
mm cable for a full squeeze of the brake lever according to the same fast 
internet search. (I'm not sure if those 7 and 15 mm figures are exact, but 
I guess it's in the ball park.)



> It's funny, I can visualize the concept of Mechanical advantage best if I 
> imagine the classic see-saw diagram with a fulcrum in the middle and levers 
> of various lengths, but I get totally lost when that translates to straddle 
> yokes, straddle wire angles, and the various points along a brake arm that 
> play a role in determining leverage. 
>
>
The lower the straddle cable, the more mechanical advantage - goes for 
every cantilever brake you will come across.

See the note in my previous post for a see-saw fulcrum analogue in 
mechanical advantages for levers: "For finding levers better matching those 
brakes, measure the distance from the center of where the lever turns (the 
"fulcrum"?) to where the wire is attached, and try to find a lever with a 
smaller distance." - Brake lever on one side of the fulcrum, and a short 
distance on the other side for a short pull brake (large mechanical 
advantage). With a larger distance to the other side you have a long pull 
brake - moves more cable but have a smaller mechanical advantage, i.e. you 
need much more force on the brake lever to put as much force on the cable.
 

> Sounds like many of you really get results with V Brakes. And Deacon! That 
> straddle yoke is in the stratosphere, at least as far as my bike relates: I 
> moved mine down just above the (fenders) tire.
>

That picture with the high yoke shows a very strange setup, as it minimizes 
the braking force for an already weak (in-built low mechanical advantage) 
brake.

And remember - for any comparison between effectiveness of different kind 
of brakes to be useful, you need to use exactly the same brake pads. 
V-brakes normally uses very thin brake pads that will make the brake feel 
more solid and direct, even though the braking force and effect would be 
the same for a cantilever brake with thicker pads that compress more for 
the same given force.


Johan Larsson,
Sweden


 

>
> Happy Friday Everybody,
> Alan
> On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 7:02:04 AM UTC-4, Alan Pickett wrote:
>>
>> So, before I ponied up for my Hillborne, I purchased a Surly Cross Check 
>> about four years ago and completely "Rivendellized" it, with what at the 
>> time amounted to a Riv Build Kit: Albatross bars, Sugino triple, bar-end 
>> silver shifters, Tektro CR720 wide profile cantis and the Tektro Eclipse 
>> linear pull levers. I never thought much about it, and the brakes have 
>> performed over time, and the whole bike treated me well, even during the 
>> Ragbrai of 2012, with over 100 degree temperatures most days.
>>
>> Now that I have my side pull hillborne with the lovely bigmouth side 
>> pulls and the tektro mountain levers, I find that I really love the smooth, 
>> almost buttery action of the levers and the lack of white knuckling 
>> required to get modulation out of the brakes, and have started fiddling 
>> with my old setup on the Surly. I've lowered the CR720's straddle wire 
>> hanger as low as it will go, and have double checked to make sure that the 
>> setting on the Eclipse levers is set for "non-linear pull" brakes (y'all 
>> might remember that it had two settings for the cable nipple, depending on 
>> the brakes used), but still have a sense of having to really clench the 
>> levers to white-knuckle levels to bring the bike to rest. It's not that 
>> they've ever failed, and I certainly become used to this set-up whenever I 
>> return to the Surly, but do find that I like the action of the side pulls 
>> and Mountain levers a lot more - it's like having power brakes vs 
>> floor-stompers!
>>
>> So, is this simply a matter of mechanical advantage, and have I likely 
>> exhausted my ability to g

[RBW] Re: front derailleur for widelow recommendation

[Johan Larsson]

I have used several different old standard road front shifters with my 
48/28 and 52/32 setups on old TA and Stronglight cranks without problems. 
The shifting itself has never been an issue, but with those cranks you must 
have a shifter with a flat outer cage as the space between the outer chain 
ring and the crank arm is very very narrow. If you don't have that problem, 
anything that fits works, from my experience.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: cleaning Grunden's rain cape

[Johan Larsson]

By the way, here in Scandinavia there's a special kind of soft soap that is 
recommended for pvc rain gear, it sort of restores or improves the waxy 
surface. "Såpa". Looking at wikipedia there seems to be no apparent direct 
equivalent outside Scandinavia, although there's a link to a description in 
German - http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%A5pa . This soap is very thick 
or even gel-like, oily in appearance, and smells of bitter almond. It's 
used for treating wooden floors, instead of oiling or lacquering them ( 
http://www.skansen.se/sv/artikel/sapskurning-av-golv and 
http://bellevuegard.se/blogg/for-och-nackdelar-med-sapskurat-golv/ - maybe 
google translate will be of some assistance...), and also used in 
traditional wool hand felting (if you're not that fond of using your own 
urine). In addition tire companies here use it as a lubricant when mounting 
tires, and it's used for treating infected wounds... quite a diversified 
usage I guess.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 12:06:59 PM UTC+2, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> Anybody know a good way to wash a Grunden's without damaging the 
> waterproofing in the fabric.  The last trip I made left it with both mud 
> and grease stains.  The liner is particularly grimy.  I know it will just 
> get dirty again anyway, but
>
> Marc
>

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[RBW] Re: cleaning Grunden's rain cape

[Johan Larsson]

A sponge/rag and a little mild dish soap in a bowl of water would work for 
the outside if it' not enough hanging it in the shower and showering it. 
There's no waterproofing, it's just a layer of plastic on top of the 
fabric, although there is a waxy quality on the surface that can get 
destroyed by strong detergents. Also, some (many?) coloring agents quite 
easily gets transferred to the PVC, and if that happens you'll _never_ get 
it away.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 12:06:59 PM UTC+2, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> Anybody know a good way to wash a Grunden's without damaging the 
> waterproofing in the fabric.  The last trip I made left it with both mud 
> and grease stains.  The liner is particularly grimy.  I know it will just 
> get dirty again anyway, but
>
> Marc
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New bicycle brand from Merry Sales = New Albion

[Johan Larsson]

On Sat, Apr 4, 2015 at 9:02 PM, Evan Baird  wrote:

> The name was licensed from New Albion brewing.
>
> http://karledwards.com/blog/process-of-process-the-new-albion-cycles-badge/
>


But it doesn't say anything, not even a word about that in the link you
provided?

/Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: New bicycle brand from Merry Sales = New Albion

[Johan Larsson]

I thought steeper seat tube angles for smaller sizes were a thing of the past? 
Only means you have to shove back the saddle more and more, and have seat posts 
with more setback.

Johan Larsson, 
Sweden 

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[RBW] Re: Clearcoat over raw steel, my turn!

[Johan Larsson]

Looks very nice! I'm curious about the copper tone brazing at the head lug. 
Never seen any brass brazing in that color before, but it's probably just 
some variety I've not come across.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: Broken Crank

[Johan Larsson]

On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 10:34 PM, Benedikt 
wrote:

> I added a few pictures for those of you who wanted to see the other side
> of the crank including some "mating" the two up.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/neutralbuoyancy/16529273621/in/album-72157607896493013/
> - Brian
>
>

 Thanks, that was very helpful. It didn't look like I thought it would at
all, judging from the first photos - I thought the big gentle inner curve
was a flat machined surface. Even if there's a gentle curve, the very
transition to the arm is abrupt and sharp, and it's a definitive stress
riser. And the crack started exactly there. Even so, I would not say it's a
poor design - it could improve in that detail to have more margin of error,
but it's likely a materials problem in manufacturing. I have decades of
experience with dogsled runners made of 7075 aluminium, and they are
subject to an extreme amount of flex and corrosion compared to a bicycle
crank, and they mostly break because of severe mechanical damages and
cut-outs that initiates the break.

I don't know how the original French cranks were shaped there, I use an old
Stronglight 49A crank myself daily in summertime but the bike is in storage
now and I can't take a look.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Broken Crank

[Johan Larsson]

I'm curious about how the backside of the arm looks at the crack, the side 
that is towards the table on the pictures. It's not possible to see the 
radius of the inner corner otherwise.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 6:09:21 AM UTC+1, lungimsam wrote:
>
> If I love friction  bar end shifting, will I find friction DT shifting 
> just as easy and enjoyable? 
>
> Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult 
> and looks like there's a big potential for knees banging into forearms 
> while pedalling and reaching down to shift  at same time. 
>
> What's your experience been with DT shifting?



I like both bar-end and DT shifters and have bikes with both systems. No 
problems switching between bikes with different types. I'm 6'2" and have 
bikes between 63-66 cm, and there's no issues reaching down to DT shifters 
on these bikes, not with drop bars at least. With bikes I'm sitting upright 
on, I only use MTB shifters or stem-mounted shifters.

What I appreciate with DT shifters is their simplicity. They work for all 
road use. Bar-end shifters are better when you don't want to let go off the 
handlebar, if you ride slippery gravel roads or off-road - trails, single 
track etc.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Bending back a bent fork

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:14:15 PM UTC+1, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Within reason, sure.  /.../  If the forkblades are wrinkled at all, then 
> you get a little more queasy about it.  Feel under the top tube and down 
> tube right behind the lugs to check there for wrinkling as well. /.../
>

I second this. Smooth bends are perfectly repairable, but if there's folds, 
ripples or bulges I would get another fork.  And check the frame per Bill's 
advice.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: The new cycling revolution starts NOW! With one custom bike part! (Modified Silver Shifter)

[Johan Larsson]

Nice work. I wasn't aware of that lever angle detail before, and have 
learned something new! Thanks!

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 7:04:52 AM UTC+1, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> OK, that's a little hyperbolic, but I'm pretty excited.  I like downtube 
> shifters, and Silver downtube shifters are great.  I use Silvers and I use 
> the Suntour Sprints that Silvers copied.  They are *almost* perfect.  One 
> thing I like a teeny bit better is that the very last Shimano downtube 
> shifters had a neat little feature.  The left side shifter would not lay 
> flat, parallel with the downtube.  It had a built-in internal stop that 
> made it stop a bit early.  That way, when you reach through to grab that 
> left shifter with your right hand, it was sitting up high and was easier to 
> grab.  I always thought that was pretty slick.  
>
> The piece that causes Silvers, and Suntour, and Campy, and Gipiemme 
> shifters to stop parallel to the downtube was the same little piece.  It's 
> a flat piece of aluminum with a square hole in it, and a bent tooth in just 
> the right place.  I went ahead and worked out a design for a different base 
> plate piece that has the tooth repositioned to give my Silver shifters that 
> Shimano feature of grab-ability.  I had my brother-in-law work up a solid 
> model and I ordered a prototype from a machine shop.  I test installed it 
> tonight, and it works just like I planned it.  
>
> Photos prove I can overthink almost anything:   Silver 2.0 
> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157649775913121/>
>
> Now I'm looking into more cost effective manufacturing methods to see if 
> it's feasible to make a run of these for other downtube zealots to geek out 
> on.   
>

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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

[Johan Larsson]

On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:54:43 PM UTC+1, Ikky wrote:
>
> For those of us considering a Hilsen, what's your PBH / actual height? Hi 
> by the way.
>
> On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:48:50 PM UTC+1, jinxed wrote:
>>
>> 700c 57cm. My first Hilsen was a 59 and was just too big. I was running a 
>> 60 stem and was still reaching. My sweet spot is 56cm, so even this is a 
>> little long. I'd love to try a 56 Atlantis with something like a big apple.
>>
>>
On a bike with a 58 cm level top tube and handlebar about the same height 
as the saddle, I'm comfortable with a mustache bar and a 60 mm stem, and 
I'm 6'2" (187 cm). That bar puts your hands pretty far forward. Normally I 
ride 63-66 cm (C-to-Top) bikes with 58-60 cm top tubes and 100-130 mm long 
stems, but I find the original mustache handlebar demands a really short 
stem to be useful as an all-round handlebar.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

[Johan Larsson]

On Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Toby Whitfield 
wrote:

> I find forwards and backwards unhelpful when thinking about these things.
> Forwards on the top or bottom? If your mental model assumes that you are
> looking at it from a specific orientation, I think that orientation needs
> to be explicitly expressed. Even "righty tighty" can be backwards from the
> other side.
>
> I don't have a good model for pedals/bottom bracket myself, but recognize
> the pitfalls.
>
> Toby
> Toronto
>


Hmm, I guess you have a problem with clockwise and counter clockwise too?
And left and right - "your left or mine...?" Up or down isn't a problem I
hope? :) Just kidding!

Did you see my tips on the thread direction above, is that helpful in any
way?

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: Mudfest

[Johan Larsson]

Yes, I thought of the Albastache but couldn't quite get the shape to fit. I
guess it can be because of distortion due to the lens and angle it's shot
at in the flickr picture. I was about to order an Albastache bar last
winter, but while I was waiting for reply on availability, the old
Bridgestone poster I wanted to order at the same time sold out :'( and I
couldn't justify the shipping costs for a small order.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Mon, Dec 8, 2014 at 10:23 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Och! Sorry. That last photo compares the Albastache with the Albatross.
> Sorry about my confusion.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: Mudfest

[Johan Larsson]

What kind of handlebar is this? It looks very much like an old bar I have 
from the 1920's, up side down.

Johan Larsson,

Sweden


<https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HgkZmf4sI4g/VIYTAuFwneI/A9o/Fwth7ER-KMk/s1600/bar.jpg>
https://flic.kr/p/qkmPTp


On Monday, December 8, 2014 9:05:18 PM UTC+1, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> After a week of not riding. Body was telling me to get out despite the 
> weather.
>
> A couple of days of clear weather the thought was that the trails would be 
> dry. 
>
> How wrong we were. After a short ramble on the road and a quick cyclocross 
> barrier training. We got mud.
>
> 30 minutes of walking later, we had caked bikes of muds. After lunch and 
> mud scraping. 
> We finished the rest of the wet ride with beautiful views of a cloud 
> covered Mt.Diablo
>
> Pictures proved that it was a mudfest:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk3aNMiw
>
> Manny "Pigs like mud..." Acosta
>

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of Stem Shifters...

[Johan Larsson]

Uh, just came to think of something... those old Sun Tour shifters have a 
rather coarse ratchet mechanism. Many times the stepping in between stops 
in the ratchet does not allow for a good enough fine tuning of the position 
of the chain for a nine-speed system, and you can't get the chain in line 
of the cog just right. That can happen with the new and modern ratchet 
shifters as well, but rarely.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden  

On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 3:19:27 AM UTC+1, Pondero wrote:
>
> Nudged by Bill's inspiration, I ordered stem shifter mounts from Riv for 
> my Atlantis.  Then, in a classic timing move by me, I remembered I had some 
> stem shifters way back in my parts pile...somewhere.  I found them and 
> cleaned them up a bit...
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/28889177@N06/15854585506/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/28889177@N06/15878412351/in/photostream/
>
> ...and wondered, because they are bodacious, whether these things would 
> shift a modern 9spd cassette.  Any suggestions?
>
> The lever for the rear has a delightful ratchet, and the lever for the 
> front is pure friction.
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of Stem Shifters...

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 3:19:27 AM UTC+1, Pondero wrote:
>
> Nudged by Bill's inspiration, I ordered stem shifter mounts from Riv for 
> my Atlantis.  Then, in a classic timing move by me, I remembered I had some 
> stem shifters way back in my parts pile...somewhere.  I found them and 
> cleaned them up a bit...
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/28889177@N06/15854585506/in/photostream/
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/28889177@N06/15878412351/in/photostream/
>
> ...and wondered, because they are bodacious, whether these things would 
> shift a modern 9spd cassette.  Any suggestions?
>
> The lever for the rear has a delightful ratchet, and the lever for the 
> front is pure friction.
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>

I guess you'll need something like a moped throttle cable for those 
shifters, it looks like they are made for some small barrel nipples that 
are not used nowadays on bikes. Moped/motorcycle parts shops could possibly 
also have loose slip-over barrels that could fit "good enough" on a 
standard bike shifter cable.

And they probably do pull enough cable for a nine-speed Shimano derailer. 
If you have a bike with a nine-speed shifter, it easy to measure how much 
cable is moving in between gears 1-9 - remove the rear wheel, shift to 9 
and then just pull any end of the outer cable and measure how much it 
moves. I think it's about 20 mm. Then you can just use a piece of string to 
see how much pull your old shifters manage.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden 

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[RBW] Re: Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

[Johan Larsson]

On Monday, December 8, 2014 8:35:07 PM UTC+1, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Ah - you are correct. My imaginary backwards circular arrows are for pedal 
> removal only. 
>
> So, BB cups always (on British threaded BBs) unscrew toward the FRONT of 
> the bike? Righty-loosey on the right, lefty-loosey on the left?  
> And crank bolts are always lefty-loosey? Wrench rotates toward the back of 
> the bike on the right, and toward the front of the bike on the left. 
>
> I am updating my mental model now. 
>
>
A help for me/"mental model" is that the BB cups and pedals unscrew if you 
picture their bearings to freeze up and lock when you pedal.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Re: Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

[Johan Larsson]

On Friday, December 5, 2014 6:24:08 PM UTC+1, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Here's Riv's amazing Mark Abele installing a BB. What fascinates me about 
> watching him is that he's quick, but very precise: He knows where 
> everything is, and you can see him whip the tools right up to the contact 
> point, then do a quick-slow-down just before he gets there so he's only 
> touching the exact spot he's aiming for. That's good stuff!
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwjnZfNO1DE
>

Except that you should insert the left side ring before you tighten the 
right side, but not insert it so much that the BB bottoms out at 
tightening, then tighten the left.

And if they're chasing the threads why not spend a minute to face the shell 
also? It's a matter of seconds to put on the facing cutters and continue 
when the threads have been chased. It's pretty easy to remove paint in the 
BB threads which in practice is what they're doing in the video, but I 
personally would really appreciate the shell being faced since it takes a 
specialized and expensive tool to do that. It's so little more work, but a 
huge quality gain. I don't get it.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Free book for RBW Owners!

[Johan Larsson]

Just have to ask - will those that give their emails away there on the link 
generator page getting spammed later...?

Johan Larsson,
Sweden


On Sunday, December 7, 2014 8:31:52 AM UTC+1, Mark R. wrote:
>
>
> <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NgadmGuls14/VIQCN-WuJ0I/Ahg/fSlIhTU6i0Q/s1600/handbookcover.jpg>
> Actually, you don't have to have a Riv.
>
> I posted this over to the Bob list, as I always post there, seldom post 
> here but lurk this list these days.  Thought I would pass this on to all of 
> you as well, 
>
> As some of you know, I have a website/youtube channel on how to take care 
> of the motor that pedals your bike.
>
> I have a new book out, The Howtostretch Handbook, and it's free!  Can't 
> beat the price, you can download the PDF here 
> <http://www.payloadz.com/d1/?id=2792724>
>
> If that does not work, try  http://www.payloadz.com/d1/?id=2792724
>
>
> Oh, it's not only for I bobs/RBW folks, tell anybody you want about it.  
> It is basically a guide on how to start stretching, about pain, how to 
> correct imbalances in your body, with 
> links to my videos to show the reader how.
>
> Enjoy!
>
>
> Mark Rosenberg
> www.youtube.com/howtostretch
> SDCA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] For sale 62cm Waterford Built Hunqapillar (revised posting)

[Johan Larsson]

On Sunday, December 7, 2014 3:58:44 PM UTC+1, Keith B wrote:

/.../ I should mention mine is also the larger tire clearance edition. /.../
>


Interesting, I didn't know there had been such changes. Is there somebody 
that has some information on this, a link perhaps?

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

[Johan Larsson]

Forgot to mention that Park Tool has the best service/repair instructions 
I've come across online - http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

I always try to lift forward their excellent instructions on how to adjust 
cup and cone wheel bearings - it's an ingenious method with the wheel 
clamped on one side on the outside of the frame, and with a little practice 
you'll get it perfect every time.

/Johan

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[RBW] Re: Daring to wrench on my Riv's?

[Johan Larsson]

Working on bikes and components that are not very precious and/or delicate 
makes you more relaxed and probably is the best way to start hands-on 
learning. If you have no desire whatsoever to have one more bike and just 
want to work on your Rivendell, you will progress and learn slower by a 
factor of ten or more probably...

Any old scrap MTB is 98% the same as a custom Rivendell. (Much like the 
differences in the genome between chimpanzees and humans, that small 
difference have a huge impact on the appearance... :) ) All the nuts and 
bolts are the same, so I suggest buying a cheap 80's-90's MTB in bad 
condition and start fixing it, Riv' it up with a higher handlebar and so.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Friday, December 5, 2014 6:25:42 AM UTC+1, lungimsam wrote:
>
> I can do some stuff on my bikes. Setting up cockpits and saddle/seatpost, 
> brake lever/caliper/housing/cable installation and adjustment, pedals, 
> shifter lever installation and adjustment, fender/rack installations, 
> cassette/chain swapping, etc. The more basic stuff.
>
> But I haven't dared to do anything with bb's, cranksets, wheel 
> building/truing, headset adjustment, derailer installation. Just don't 
> wanna mess anything up.
> But I want to learn to do this stuff so I don't have to depend on the LBS 
> for things.
>
> What's a good way to go about doing these more difficult things without 
> damaging anything? Books and websites are helpful, but I still don't have 
> the confidence to mess with the aforementioned stuff.
>
> Buy a beater and wrench away on it? But a lot of old road bike beaters 
> don't match the type of components and frame of the RBW bikes and wheels, 
> so I don't know how helpful that would be to break down and rebuild a 
> Peugeot (for instance) to help me learn how to do maintenance on my 
> Rivbikes.
>
> Any ideas? How'd you learn?
>

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[RBW] Re: Flats and Hetres

[Johan Larsson]

Copied from another thread:

On my previous bike with 32 mm Continental Contact tires with a puncture 
protection layer I got maybe 1-2 punctures every year. Upon weekly 
inspection I used to pry out many small pieces of glass from the tires, 
that the puncture protection had stopped. Using 25 mm racing tires was 
impossible for commuting and everyday use on my roads - 10 punctures on the 
14 days I tried having them... all 10 punctures because of glass.

On my current bike with 42 mm Hetres I have had two punctures in three 
years, and I'm on my second back tire with the front tire soon having to be 
replaced too. And one puncture was because of a glass shard that tore a 
hole big enough I could put my finger through. I glued it from the inside 
with rubber cement and a patch made from a tubular tire, and used it a full 
year more, until it was completely worn out. I weigh 210 lbs so I have to 
run them at fairly high pressure (~4 bar/60 psi in the back) compared to 
what the lightweights can run them at, which makes it even more impressive. 
I absolutely love these Hetre tires - fast, silent, comfortable, grippy and 
in practice - for me, so far - puncture proof. I just wish they were 
available in a true 50 mm 559 mm/26" version...


Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Saturday, November 15, 2014 3:48:28 AM UTC+1, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Obviously, Jan H. is lucky not to have to deal with this on a daily basis:
>
> https://flic.kr/p/pM2AGC 
>
> His flat-free experience would be much different, I think, if he had to 
> ride in these conditions.
>
> P.S. Today’s ride: No flats!!
>
> —Eric N
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> www.wheelsnorth.org
> Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @campyonlyguy 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is up with Brooks QC?

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, September 10, 2014 8:08:21 PM UTC+2, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 09/10/2014 02:05 PM, Anton Tutter wrote: 
> > Most of the 4-5 Brooks saddle's I've bought new in the past five years 
> > have had some sort of anomaly or inconsistency in manufacture (some of 
> > which like you mentioned), but none bad enough to warrant returning 
> > it. The biggest issue I have with them is the poor leather quality-- 
> > thinner than on vintage Brooks. They've held up so far, but based on 
> > the rate of wear, I wouldn't say these are going to last nearly as 
> > long as some of the vintage ones I've found.  The used ones that I've 
> > found that date back to the 1970s and 80s seem to have thicker leather 
> > and give me the impression they'll last decades more... 
>
> And it's not like that quality leather isn't out there: Gilles Berthoud 
> seems to have no trouble finding it for his saddles. 
>
>
The story I heard is that he went through a _lot_ of trouble to find 
quality leather, that it took him years, and that there isn't any guarantee 
for a continuous lasting supply. He only makes a fraction of the quantities 
that Brooks manufacture also.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Big-big better than small-small?

[Johan Larsson]

That was an interesting article, thanks for sharing it.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Sunday, October 26, 2014 1:30:01 PM UTC+1, Garth wrote:
>
>
>  Yes  ,  Patrick :)  It's no accident I see so many pro racers riding the 
> big rings up hills as much as they can :.
>
>
> http://cyclingtips.com.au/2010/04/the-big-ring-mechanical-or-psychological-advantage/
>

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[RBW] Re: Big-big better than small-small?

[Johan Larsson]

On Sunday, October 26, 2014 2:42:29 AM UTC+1, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> /.../
> But still, will bigger sprockers feel, or even be, more freely spinning?
> */.../*
>

Nope, there's no way anyone can feel a difference between the setups you're 
describing. How a bicycle "feels" is so very very subjective, and I suspect 
that many things that "feels" in a certain way have no connection to what 
precise scientific measuring would tell. What I read into what you're 
describing is that you simply like one of the two bikes more than the 
other... :)


Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Polling what's the best 650b touring tire?

[Johan Larsson]

On my previous bike with 32 mm Continental Contact tires with a puncture 
protection layer I got maybe 1-2 punctures every year. Upon weekly 
inspection I used to pry out many small pieces of glass from the tires, 
that the puncture protection had stopped. Using 25 mm racing tires was 
impossible for commuting and everyday use on my roads - 10 punctures on the 
14 days I tried having them... all 10 punctures because of glass.

On my current bike with 42 mm Hetres I have had two punctures in three 
years, and I'm on my second back tire with the front tire soon having to be 
replaced too. And one puncture was because of a glass shard that tore a 
hole big enough I could put my finger through. I glued it from the inside 
with rubber cement and a patch made from a tubular tire, and used it a full 
year more, until it was completely worn out. I weigh 210 lbs so I have to 
run them at fairly high pressure (~4 bar/60 psi in the back) compared to 
what the lightweights can run them at, which makes it even more impressive. 
I absolutely love these Hetre tires - fast, silent, comfortable, grippy and 
in practice - for me, so far - puncture proof. I just wish they were 
available in a true 50 mm 559 mm/26" version...


Johan Larsson,
Sweden
 

On Wednesday, January 30, 2013 4:56:43 AM UTC+1, hsmitham wrote:
>
> Hey RBW riders, curious what you all think is the best  650b & 700c tire 
> for touring? Is it even possible to have a plush ride with decent flat 
> resistance?
>
> Hugh
> Sunland, Ca
>

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[RBW] Re: Need help replicating Riv custom on a budget - for a shortish female friend

[Johan Larsson]

If she is mostly after the comfort, sitting position and over all 
practicality of your bike, she could do well with a conversion of an old 
MTB. With the right choice of stem and seatpost, you will probably be able 
to get the contact points and sitting position to within a few millimeters 
of what it is on your bike. The drawback of an MTB frame is a higher bottom 
bracket than on a road bike, which is more noticeable for shorter persons. 
How you fare with a high bottom bracket is very individual though, but I 
have to admit having a personal preference for low BB's, even though I'm 
6'2".

But that Surly Straggler looks very very fine I must say. Room for 650B 42 
mm tires with fenders, and there are some of the worlds best and most 
comfortable tires in that dimension. Should work well with a porteur type 
of handlebar also.


Johan Larsson,
Sweden



On Sunday, October 26, 2014 4:19:04 AM UTC+1, Lesli Larson wrote:
>
> I'm helping a friend source a new (or possibly) used bike to replicate my 
> own Riv custom which has a 50cm seat tube and a 50 cm top tube.  My bike, 
> originally a rando rig, is now set up with porteur bars, inverse levers, 
> wider brooks saddle, honjos and 38c grand bois tires.  It's such a fun bike 
> to ride.  In my friends words, the bike changed her life, or at least, 
> attitude about bike fit and comfort.  My friend and I are both 5'3 and ride 
> bikes in the 48cm to 50 cm range.
>
> I've been shopping around for a stock 650b frame for her that could be 
> built up into an upright, go fast, weekender bike.  We're in the Surly/Soma 
> budget when it comes to the frame.  Sadly, most of these bikes seems to be 
> made for 700c wheels or have extra long top tubes (even for bikes that are 
> 47cm).  
>
> Send me your frame suggestions.  Right now, our target is the Soma San 
> Marcos which I believe takes 650b in smaller sizes.   We're working with a 
> terrific shop in Brooklyn.  I just wanted to solicit the group for any 
> extra knowledge of stock frames that we might also want to evaluate. 
>
> Regards,
>
> Lesli Larson
> Eugene, Oregon
>

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Re: [RBW] Seat post clamp bolt snapped

[Johan Larsson]

On Monday, October 20, 2014 8:09:13 PM UTC+2, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> no offense, Johan, the one you show has been tightened to overload.  As I 
> said in my prior post, it solved a problem for me.  It's not my 100% seat 
> post clamp, it simply adds the little more that was lacking.  As I 
> mentioned in my prior posting, it solved a problem for me - successfully. 
>  Problem solved.  Thanks.  
>

Yup, if you don't tighten it much it won't break, and in your case you 
don't need to since you use a regular clamp as well. But it's a truly 
unsound construction, and a cautionary example of bad engineering.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

 

>
> On Sunday, October 19, 2014 2:14:08 PM UTC-5, Johan Larsson wrote:
>>
>> On Monday, October 13, 2014 6:49:12 PM UTC+2, Ron Mc wrote:
>>>
>>> I solved my slipping  seatpost on my Moser with a Super Record expander 
>>> seatpost - clamps internally like a quill stem - add that with the lug 
>>> binder bolt and it snugged up nicely.  I sniped mine on ebay for $70, which 
>>> was a good price, and it was also very nice condition.  The problem with 
>>> Super Record posts, they're not very tall, but perfect for my tall frame 
>>> need.  American Classic at one time made a taller expander seatpost.  It's 
>>> kind of a neat idea - you'd think more might offer them, especially Nitto.  
>>>
>>
>> Well, you don't want the expander below the thicker butted end of the 
>> seat tube, so there's a great chance of user error and no manufacturer is 
>> fond of that. The Campagnolo expanding seatpost I've seen is a pretty 
>> strange and bad design too, and honestly I wouldn't use it on any bike of 
>> mine because of its probability of breaking (not the post itself, just the 
>> locking mechanism).
>>
>> Johan Larsson,
>> Sweden
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: thump thump of supple tires

[Johan Larsson]

If you can see a hop when spinning the wheel you should be able to locate 
that spot when it's still as well, in some way, and take a closer look. 
Maybe the inner tube is creased/folded? Slow the rotation gradually, or 
mark the tire with a piece of tape, moving it until it lines up with the 
hop. It's very likely you will figure it out if you just can examine that 
specific spot.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden



On Sunday, October 19, 2014 5:44:04 AM UTC+2, Michael Williams wrote:
>
> Allright group,  I have an inquiry regarding a thump-thump Ive experienced 
> pretty much only with supple( 120tpi) tires and this seems like the place 
> to get some possible answers. Im usually not nitpicky,   but this is VERY 
> noticeable.  Every variable is the same: Tubes, tire pressure, rim, riding 
> area,   the only change is from a stoutish tire to a ' supple tire'.  I can 
> noticeably see a hop in the tires through rotation.   Im 99.8% sure the 
> tires are seated correctly,  I can see an even line just above the rim all 
> the way around.   the only thing I can think of is that the irregularities 
> of the tube are more pronounced due to the thinner walls of the supple 
> tire?   That the sidewall/ overall stoutness of a heavier tire dont allow 
> those irregularities to show up?  Anyone have experience with this?   Does 
> it go away with more miles  Thoughts?   And thank you in advance!!-Mike
>

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[RBW] Re: when ones winter studs are too big for fenders

[Johan Larsson]

On Monday, October 20, 2014 2:47:13 PM UTC+2, gabe mcgann wrote:
>
> So I just installed a 54-584 suomi "speed hakkapeliitta" on my sam and can 
> no longer fit my fenders between the fork and these rather tall and fat 
> studded snow tires.  Any suggestion on how to stay dryish this winter?  I 
> have about 1mm between the top of the tire and the fork crown!


The Sam H. isn't made to fit such tires unfortunately. 1 mm sounds really 
tight, and possibly the tires will stretch in time so the studs will start 
to touch eventually, so even if you get fenders to work, you can get other 
problems. It's not absolutely sure they will stretch, but many tires do. 
Those Finnish tires are really good though, and hopefully their new more 
environment friendly rubber mixture are as good as the old one. I have a 
pair more than fifteen years old that still work really well, with soft 
rubber even though it has lots of cracks.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] Clem on the Blug

[Johan Larsson]

The Barlow pass sure seems like an excellent tire, but being narrower it's 
a change in the wrong direction. Bigger bikes probably are being used by 
heavier people which needs wider tires, not taller. There are plenty of 
wide off-road 650b tires available, just as good a selection as in 700c, 
and the finest, widest road tires as well too, so 650b should be the best 
choice for a bigger do-it-all bike. For a big mtb bike, 700c/29" could be a 
good choice because you don't care for road tires then. To me it looks like 
the choice for a 700c wheel for the biggest Clem frame is only based on 
subjective esthetics and not on function.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden





On Sunday, October 19, 2014 2:20:09 AM UTC+2, EricP wrote:
>
> I was not as thrilled with the Compass 26x1.75 on my Long Haul Trucker as 
> the Schwalbe Kojak tires they replaced.  They are better than Big Apples.  
> Not saying they are bad tires, they're not bad.  Quite good.  My personal 
> preference is for something even wider.  Especially on that bike.
>
> As to the Clem, I'd really like the 59cm to stay 700C.  That way I have a 
> choice of skinny tires (Compass Barlow Pass 38mm) or go wide such as most 
> 29er 50mm or 60mm tires.  It's getting to the point where 38mm are almost 
> too skinny except for smooth roads.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> Someone else (or perhaps Eric on an earlier occasion) opined the same, 
>> which makes me sit up because I have been toying with the thought of seeing 
>> whether the 559X1.5s might not fit under the crown of my Riv customs.
>>
>> Can anyone confirm or, in the event, describe other experience? After 
>> all, there is the 32 mm 559 Kojak, which is a pretty darn nice tire, and 
>> Panracer still has the 559 Pasela in 1.5 for half the Compass's price.
>>
>> ... Or are the 559 Paselas only in "Tourguard" nowadays?
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Eric Daume > > wrote:
>>
>>> Except for the Barlow Pass.
>>>
>>> And in a bit of an apples to oranges comparison, I didn't think my 26" 
>>> Compass tires were any better than my (much, much cheaper) 700 x 35 Paselas.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
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[RBW] Clem on the Blug

[Johan Larsson]

I would prefer a 650b tire on the 59 cm size as well. There are no equivalents 
of the Hetre and Babyshoe tires in 700c - the only available wide road 700c 
tires are very heavy and slow in comparison.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

[Johan Larsson]

It could very well be that the threads on the seat post bolt were damaged 
and that they had galled(?) in the nut so you couldn't tighten it properly. 
That would explain that the bolt broke when you were releasing it and 
normally very little force is needed. If this is the case you only need a 
new bolt and nut, properly greased.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Splinting a carbon frame

[Johan Larsson]

Professionals aren't magicians, and it's possible to do many repairs on 
carbon fibers yourself. But a pro is definitely faster, have experience and 
a routine to follow, and have access to all tools and materials needed. In 
the end your friend probably will have to overbuild the repair to be on the 
safe side - it won't look good but will be perfectly rideable.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Saturday, October 11, 2014 5:38:37 PM UTC+2, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> My friend with a carbon frame broke the chainstay yesterday, in what 
> seemingly is a greenstick fracture. He thinks he can splint it. Is 
> this idea as idiotic as I think it is? 
>
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson 
>
> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Grunden's Poncho -- works for fastboys?

[Johan Larsson]

I must say that Poncho have been a big disappointment. I'm 6'2"/188 cm, and 
I can only use it on one bike I have that I sit completely straight up on, 
that have a short top tube, and have a narrow porteur-type handlebar that 
sweeps back. It's dangerous to use on my other bikes, because it's so tight 
around the handlebars that it locks the steering. I can't even use it on my 
old mountain bike that I also sit upright on, because the handlebars are 
too wide. Since it's basically unusable, I have been thinking of cutting it 
up and try widening it, gluing in some pieces, because it would be really 
great if it would be a little bit wider. Well, unusable is not correct 
actually - in fact I must admit it works extremely well on that one bike 
mentioned, but that makes it the more frustrating not being able to use it 
on the bikes I ride the most. The circumference around the hips and 
handlebars would need to be maybe 15-20 cm/6-8 inches longer for it to work 
for me on "normal" bikes.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Sunday, October 5, 2014 10:03:22 PM UTC+2, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ar1.htm
>
> Is it capacious enough for a 6 footer who rides on hoods or hooks, and who 
> likes bars that are relatively distant from saddle nose? I gave up on the 
> Carradice nylon poncho because it fit only "sit up and beg". (Duxback too 
> hot. Use Campmor now, but that's flimsy.)
>
> Inviting comments only from those who have used the Grunden.
>
> Patrick Moore, "fastboy" in a very aspirational sense only, in ABQ, NM, 
> where it rains in an aspirational sense only.*
>
> *(Akshually, we've had good 'monsoons' in '14 and '13. Ponchos are nice 
> even if one uses them only 2X/year.)
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
>   * "Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to 
> never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from 
> it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
> * "Nothing outside you can give you any place," he said. "You needn't to 
> look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind 
> it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into 
> somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your 
> daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is 
> all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was 
> any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there, 
> because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where 
> in your time and your body can they be?*
> * "Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you?" he cried. 
> "Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where 
> Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of 
> you can find it?” -- *Flannery O'Connor,* Wise Blood  *
>  

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[RBW] Re: Platform/Spiked pedals question (gripsters, grip kings, etc.)

[Johan Larsson]

Those Vice pedals sure looks nice. I've never seen a pedal that sits so 
tight to the crankarm.  And those pins are easy to grind down also if you 
want less grip, like it seems some people in this thread wants.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden


On Monday, September 29, 2014 2:35:10 AM UTC+2, justin...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I have the VO Sabot and love the amount of grip on them. I could take out 
> the pins on one side if I needed to and may do that to put grip tape on. 
> Rob at Ocean Air Cycles really likes the VP Vice (
> http://oceanaircycles.com/2013/04/22/vp-vice-and-001-pedal-comparison/) 
> and if I were buying new pedals I'd grab a pair of those.
>
> -J
>
> On Sunday, September 28, 2014 5:18:28 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>> I have VP-001 gripsters with pins on one side, and skateboard grip tape 
>> on the other. The tape comes off after several months, but gives a good 
>> attachment with plenty of easy movement. The grip side is less comfortable, 
>> but maybe better for pulling away from stop lights on a wet day with a tall 
>> gear.
>>
>> Philip
>> www biketinker.com
>>
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[RBW] Re: Narrow Compass tires - 3200 mile review

[Johan Larsson]

How much do you, or you and the bike weigh? It's good to know for 
comparison of how tires wear, since they don't last as long with higher 
loads. Myself and a empty bike with no bags/gears weigh about 110 kg/240 
pounds as an example.

Johan Larsson, Sweden


On Friday, September 26, 2014 4:03:51 PM UTC+2, Joan wrote:
>
> Bottom-line: fantastic tires, now with 3,281 miles of use. I've been 
> thinking of posting this update so now while there's a review of the 32's 
> here's my review of skinnier ones:
>
> Love the cushiony ride, and the confident handling, stick-to-the-road 
> sensation. Note: I'm a cautious rider but these tires give me a level of 
> confidence I have not experienced before.  
>
> These are the Cayuse Pass 26mm tires - I know, not nice and wide like our 
> Rivendells will accept, but that's the size that fit on my non-Riv bike and 
> so I bought them back in April.  I didn't know what to expect for 
> longevity, and actually had some misgivings about the whole supple casing, 
> extra light, not very thick tread.  I'm used to getting 4,000 miles out of 
> tires, mostly Vittoria Rubinos in the past few years.  And I've always 
> chosen tires with advertised built-in "flat protection" of some kind.  
>
> So, ok, I put these tires on my bike on April 8, then went to Tennessee 
> and rode 400 miles on some chewed up, barely paved rural roads (as well as 
> decent paved ones).  I've ridden about 10 miles on gravel, couple of miles 
> at a time (because it was 'there') and the tires handled it well.  I've 
> ridden hundreds - really, thousands of miles on the pot-holed, chip-sealed 
> roads of rural Virginia and Maryland and another 300+ miles in Maine.  The 
> tires now have 3,281 miles on them.  I examined them carefully a few days 
> ago (with an expert witness) - and the rear is showing some wear in the 
> center with the cross-hatching now worn off, but the front still has 
> visible cross-hatching on the center. 
>
> Now, since I admit to being a little superstitious, I want to say the 
> following carefully, kind of roundabout, you have to read between the lines 
> - I've never taken the tires off the rim since installing them!!  I've 
> helped several riding companions with flats though while riding my Compass 
> tires.  I mean - we're talking 3,281 miles!   
>
> The tires are really comfortable, seem fast (how to tell? I'M not fast in 
> general...) as in rolling up to speed faster than the Rubinos, corner, 
> descend very confidently.  I have about 67 psi front, 72 rear.  
>
> If you have a bike that needs narrower tires, I highly recommend these.  
>
> Riv-content: the bike itself is very Rived-out: Riv handlebar tube, Sugino 
> crank, canvas tube seat bag, Deore rear der. like on the Bleriot, same 
> cassette & chain as on the Bleriot.
>
> My non-expert two cents,
> Joan
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: My wife adjusted her handlebars

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 7:18:54 PM UTC+2, Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>
> For an upright bar setup, with typical RBW bar height, the frame size has 
> very little to do with anything.  A tall Nitto stem and upright bars will 
> work fine, even on a smallish frame IMHO. 
>

But with a frame as small as this, there are no stems that are tall enough 
that a wide bar with moderate back sweep would work if you want to sit 
fairly upright. You will need a handlebar with a lot of rise, and most of 
those have a very large back sweep, so you need a fairly long stem to 
compensate for that. Many people do not like having the grip as close to 
the body as it would be with a bar with a lot of back sweep and the stem 
that is on the bike in question now.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden
 

> You will need to do some guessing on stem length.  It won't look the best, 
> but it doesn't look good anyway ;^)BTW, those brifter will work on 
> Albatross bars, mounted as if they were moustache bars.  Not sure if the 
> angles well get weird with the bars right side up, but flipped they mount 
> nicely.
>
> Doug
>
> On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:53 AM, Jim Bronson  > wrote:
>
>> Yes, you are correct, she needs a women's frame to suit her riding
>> style, at least with drops.  The reason she didn't go for a taller
>> frame in what she has now:  The TT would have been longer and she
>> didn't want that.
>>
>> Or I could explore the alternate solution, which is to put Albas on
>> the existing bike.  Probably could be done fairly inexpensively, and
>> moved to another frame later if necessary.
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 9:23 PM, Mike Schiller
>> > wrote:
>> > I make it a point not to intervene in marital issues. ha but it
>> > seems obvious that your wife needs a women's frame. They have shorter 
>> top
>> > tubes but with a frame size that is commensurate with her height.
>> >
>> > None of the Riv models are designed this way.  see this
>> > http://www.teamestrogen.com/content/wsdBikes
>> >
>> > Short of getting a new frame, which she is opposed to, perhaps a zero
>> > setback seat post or some compact drop bars( less reach)?
>> >
>> > ~mike
>> >
>> >
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>> --
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:04:10 AM UTC+2, Peter M wrote:
>
> I thought since some of the Rivendell models have bowed chainstays you 
> could only have so low of a q factor. Or I might be totally wrong too. 
>

The chainstays are of course setting the limit for the crank arms. But with 
chain rings mounting inwards on the crank you would be able to vary the 
chainline and Q-factor independently from each other with any chain ring 
combination. With such a crank as I would like to see you first choose a 
bottom bracket that gives the chainstay clearance you want on the bike in 
question (as tight as possible for most), then set the desired/correct 
chain line using spacers for the chain rings.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden


On Sep 23, 2014 7:20 PM, "Johan Larsson" > 
> wrote:
>
>> If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only 
>> from the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap 
>> between the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run it as 
>> a wide double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available 
>> chain rings and still having a narrow Q-factor.
>>
>> It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the 
>> Q-factor low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with 
>> such a crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider 
>> ring-crank arm gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide cage 
>> front shifter you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. Or 
>> four. If you have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and run 
>> it as a double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring combinations 
>> and a Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. This 
>> winter I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I 
>> finally have access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I can 
>> modify and take parts from.
>>
>> Johan Larsson,
>> Sweden
>>
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[RBW] Re: My wife adjusted her handlebars

[Johan Larsson]

I think there's a possibility there are no standard stems that will allow 
her to sit comfortably on that frame with a regular handlebar. It need to 
be really, really tall... Maybe the same stem with a long, 100-130 mm 
extension, and a high riser bar with moderate back sweep? The albatross bar 
is definitely not to everybody's likings also, she better try something 
similar first before deciding.

Johan,
Sweden

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 12:31:02 AM UTC+2, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> She says it's comfortable this way.  I think it's time to ditch the 
> drops.  Any suggestions?  I showed her some pics of flat bars that looked 
> sorta like Albatross bars with thumbies except more plasticy and she says 
> she wants those rather than bar-ends.
>
> In other words I think she'd enjoy the bike better Rivved-out.
>
> Thoughts?  Please don't suggest 650b conversionyet ;)
>


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[RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

[Johan Larsson]

If I were to design a crankset I'd make it with chain ring bolts only from 
the inside, like old SunTour XCM cranks but with a quite narrow gap between 
the outer chain ring and crank arm. That way it's easy to run it as a wide 
double (48/28 for example) with 110/74 or any choice of available chain 
rings and still having a narrow Q-factor.

It's too bad Grant seems to have given up on striving to keep the Q-factor 
low. (?) As far as I can tell, you wouldn't lose anything with such a 
crank, there would only be advantages. If you'd need a wider ring-crank arm 
gap for some mtb style bike with wide tires and a wide cage front shifter 
you can add spacers and run it with three rings. Or one. Or four. If you 
have an old road bike you can keep it lean and narrow and run it as a 
double with almost an unlimited choice of chain ring combinations and a 
Q-factor in the 130 mm range, still using standard chain rings. This winter 
I'm hoping to be able to make such a crank for myself, since I finally have 
access to a lathe and having collected many old cranks I can modify and 
take parts from.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

[Johan Larsson]

Forgot to add a picture of an old XCM crank...

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[RBW] Re: Replace 27" wheels with 700c or 650b? Brakes = Silvers

[Johan Larsson]

On Friday, September 5, 2014 5:47:05 AM UTC+2, Peter Adler wrote:
>
> The specific model is Tektro C324, with 98-116mm reach. If you decide to 
> get more, you might want to call Rivendell; they had a case at the sale, 
> and as near as I can tell, I was the only one who bought a set. They might 
> be grateful to sell another.
>
> Or you could get back to me; I'm assuming I'll never use the now-recessed 
> front, which should work fine for a nutted rear. They seem like pretty 
> wussy brakes - good enough to stop a cruiser, but not quick enough to stop 
> anything moving at speed.
>

Could you please let us know how these brakes turned out when you have 
tried them? They look flexy, but it's impossible to know for sure how they 
work until they are tested with some good brake pads.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden
 

> If the Silvers don't make it, and I can't find a serious sidepull that 
> gives me the necessary reach, I'll switch back to G_d's own brakes - 
> centerpulls (Weinmann or Dia-Compe 750s, whichever comes to hand first).
>
> Peter
>
> On Thursday, September 4, 2014 6:36:01 PM UTC-7, cbone97 wrote:
>>
>>
>> SOOO strange you should mention those huge beach cruiser Tektros.  I had 
>> just ordered a front one from Amazon to try a 27" to 26" conversion after 
>> popping a front rim/tire on the 420 and thinking "why not?".   It looks 
>> like it'll work great and let me put on fatter tires than I could with 700c 
>> or 650b so I'm a little surprised I can't find any such conversions on the 
>> google.  If the big Tektro brake isn't total crap I'll be ordering the rear 
>> and having a custom 130mm rear wheel built.  
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, August 31, 2014 3:21:37 AM UTC-5, Peter Adler wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm attempting a similar 27"-to-650b conversion at the moment, with 
>>> Silvers on a 1972 Raleigh Super Course. Early indications are that 700c is 
>>> fine, but there may not be enough reach to make it out to 650b. As for the 
>>> nutted brakes: I picked up my recessed Silvers at a Riv garage sale a 
>>> couple of years ago (missing the attachment fittings for the QRs, which I 
>>> cannibalized off salvaged brakes from bike kitchens). At the last Riv 
>>> garage sale in July, I found several pairs of huge Tektro sidepulls that 
>>> Grant IDed as parts for some abandoned project; Tektro lists them for beach 
>>> cruisers. Fortunately, they had nutted bolts, and Riv was selling them for 
>>> $5/pair. The bolts were not easy to get out of the brakes, but they fit the 
>>> Silvers just fine.
>>>
>>> Peter in Berkeley
>>>
>> <http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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[RBW] Re: All Rounder available - help me before it disappears

[Johan Larsson]

The headtube looks about the same as my 59 cm Bridgestone XO-1. The 
All-rounder is more or less a refined XO-1. I might very well be wrong, but 
I think they have the same geometry, give or take a few millimeters. I have 
a pbh of 91 cm, 188 cm tall, and the XO-1 is a tad too small for my taste 
and needs, especially if I want to use the mustache bar and that even with 
a mtb riser stem, but I imagine it would be a good size for most people. If 
you are like most people and not like me, that All-rounder is probably just 
the right size for you... Too me, the All-rounder is quite different from 
every other model that have followed. I see it as a 
mtb-singletrail-commuter-hybrid do-it-all, not a commuter-touring-city-bike 
do-it-all like the Atlantis for example, and it's sizing is more mtb-like - 
smaller frame that is, compared to a road bike.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden



On Monday, September 1, 2014 5:10:22 PM UTC+2, L. J. Charlton wrote:
>
> I was perusing the bikes for sale at Mt. Airy bikes (DC area) and 
> unexpectedly came across this:  
> http://bike123.com/used_bikes/used_sbikesview.php?ID=3804
>
> I've been longing for a Riv but haven't seen one that said, "Buy me." 
>  This does.  But I have two questions before I give them a call:
>
> 1.  Solely from talking to other bike shops it seems the proprietor has a 
> reputation over-pricing his used bikes.  With the understanding that 
> various regions and markets value bikes differently, what would be a 
> reasonable price for a 1995 All Rounder on the east coast?
>
> 2.  I can't for the life of me find a sizing chart for the All Rounder.  I 
> have a 59 PBH.  Reading this <http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41>, 
> which is very general, indicates that I could fit a 59cm but it would be on 
> the small side.  Any help with sizing would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
>
> Larry  
>
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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Re: [RBW] About to start experimenting with centerpulls

[Johan Larsson]

On Monday, September 1, 2014 3:55:31 AM UTC+2, BSWP wrote:
>
> Thanks, all, especially for the links to beautiful frames. 
>
> I'm deducing that 42mm tires will fit past the pads on Paul Racers. Anyone 
> run wider tires than that with those brakes? They're probably not a first 
> choice for mountain bike setups... 38 is pretty wide for me, but I could 
> consider 42-45 for some situations.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

I thought you already had a clear answer? 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/DJ2b7CzKL3g/p4PqYPvgRWgJ 

"danmc  
 Aug 31 
  I know that a 42 Hetre won't clear. I'll throw a 38 and a 34-ish tire in 
to check next week. Bike is in the shop right now getting the steerer tube 
cut. 

Dan
"

Johan Larsson,
Sweden
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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Re: [RBW] About to start experimenting with centerpulls

[Johan Larsson]

On Sunday, August 31, 2014 5:18:19 PM UTC+2, Matthew J wrote:
>
> This guy had to narrow the fenders under Paul Racers but those appear to 
> be Hetres.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/4669102184/in/faves-edscoble/


That looks like a narrower tire than the Hetre.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for saddle covers?

[Johan Larsson]

Most of the time I use a heavy duty shoe cover, made out of some waterproof 
fabric. There were loads of them at a place I used to work, but no one ever 
actually used them, they were just sitting in a dusty box in the hallway. 
Other than that, a plastic grocery bag...

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Monday, September 1, 2014 4:33:04 AM UTC+2, lungimsam wrote:
>
> I have a B17 Flyer with a Carradice saddle bag strapped to the 
> saddle loops.
> I am wondering what works well with this set up. Thanks.
>
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/> 
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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[RBW] Re: Results of 6503 conversion to wide/low double

[Johan Larsson]

Looks good! That's very useful gearing. I've been running a similar setup 
for a few years, and it's working so well I wouldn't want to use anything 
else.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Tuesday, August 26, 2014 6:12:51 AM UTC+2, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> Ingredients
> Old Ultegra triple
> BBG Bashguard
> 44T 130bcd Sugino ring
> 28T 74bcd Sugino ring
> sweaty garage
> 5mm T handle hex wrench
> synthetic brake caliper grease
> some cleaning wipes
>
> results:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk1QWAP4
>
>
> -- 
> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Results of 6503 conversion to wide/low double

[Johan Larsson]

Are you cycling offroad? 38/24 seems small for road use. You'll probably be 
riding in the small cogs a lot if it's on the road. Is it the frame that 
doesn't allow for an inner chain ring in a good way, or do you just need to 
find a better bottom bracket?

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Thursday, August 28, 2014 1:08:09 PM UTC+2, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I'm working on a similar conversion although I'm running the (formerly) 
> triple with a single chainring right now.  I've got the widest bottom 
> bracket I can find and there still isn't room another chainring!   Plus, 
> I'm still trying to figure out my gearing.  I'm thinking maybe a 38/24 with 
> an 11-28 cassette.  
>
> On Monday, August 25, 2014 11:12:51 PM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>> Ingredients
>> Old Ultegra triple
>> BBG Bashguard
>> 44T 130bcd Sugino ring
>> 28T 74bcd Sugino ring
>> sweaty garage
>> 5mm T handle hex wrench
>> synthetic brake caliper grease
>> some cleaning wipes
>>
>> results:
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk1QWAP4
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 
>>
> <http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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Re: [RBW] Shellac an Opinel?

[Johan Larsson]

On Tuesday, August 26, 2014 6:35:38 AM UTC+2, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Soak it in mineral oil for a few days and then bake in the oven ~250° 
> for an hour or so. Lubes the hinge for life and darkens the wood 
> nicely. 
> =- Joe Bunik 
> Walnut Creek, CA 
>

 Interesting! I've never heard of a procedure like that. 250 seemed really 
hot at first, though... Do you happen to have a link to where this method 
is discussed? I searched around a bit, but couldn't find anything.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden (metric system)
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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[RBW] Re: Shellac an Opinel?

[Johan Larsson]

Brings back memories from when I was about 12-13 yo and made sides out of 
beautiful laburnum wood <http://goo.gl/KND2x0> <http://gog.is/umbrella>for 
my Swiss army knife. I worked on it for many hours, polishing and applying 
several layers of shellac, only to loose it in the ski slope the first time 
I had it with me, a few days afterwards. :(

Shellac works well though, I have used it on several wooden handles on my 
tools, like files and screwdrivers, but I found that I prefer the slightly 
grippier texture of a wax on such things. Shellac is clearly better for 
protecting the wood and keeping it look good, the waxed handles have gotten 
quite dirty from black oily hands over time and are impossible to clean, 
less that you sand them down.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden



On Tuesday, August 26, 2014 5:50:15 AM UTC+2, Peter M wrote:
>
> Got the Opinel kiddo for the kiddo but looking at it was thinking of 
> hitting it with shellac to give it a little more water protection. Sand it 
> and shellac? Just lay on a thin layer of shellac? use poly instead? Thanks 
> all. Oh and if anyone else is becoming a hoarder of bandannas from the 
> rotating colors at RBW you aren't alone.  Thanks!
>
<http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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[RBW] Re: Weird Request.

[Johan Larsson]

That was a really nice cargo bike also...! It seems impossible to find any 
info about it on the web, cycle truck's home page or anywhere else, but I 
found some good pictures of it in one of the flickr streams for the 
pictures posted - thanks! It gave me some ideas for a project of my own.

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

On Thursday, August 21, 2014 6:20:38 AM UTC+2, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> So school starts soon for me. 
> My principal usually makes a slideshow of teacher's summer. And since I 
> lost my stick-pod I haven't been doing a lot of portrait shots this summer. 
> I got a good one running my bike up from Han during a MTB race.
>
> https://flic.kr/p/nSoTyt
>
> I need one more.
> I'm pretty sure theres a picture somewhere of Grant riding a cargo bike 
> with me in the front from the Jamboree. Or was that a dream.
> I can't find the shot on Flickr anyone think they have it? Otherwise it 
> never happened.
> Or if theres another cool shot of summer riding.
>
> Weird to ask I know. Kinda self-absorbed. But I like to keep the idea that 
> PE teachers are cool at my school.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Manny
>
> <http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/>

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[RBW] Re: adjustable angle brake levers?

[Johan Larsson]

Many older bikes with their curved handlebar shapes and often short grips 
would really benefit from a lever that could be adjusted more. When 
mounting levers on such bikes the lever always sticks out quite 
haphazardly, with no way of squeezing the lever in a good way. Many times 
it wouldn't be enough just twisting the mount though, it would have to be 
able to elongate and move in three dimensions as well. 

Johan,
Sweden

On Saturday, August 16, 2014 8:39:36 PM UTC+2, Kainalu wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
> Do brake levers exist that could be set forward on albatross bars and not 
> stick out sideways at an angle, but run more or less parallel to the grip 
> area? They're most likely not as efficient or long lasting as straight 
> levers but maybe they exist? 
> And if they do exist they're probably wacky expensive custom jobs... 
> ..am I just dreaming of fairly simple rotating collars? 
> Couldn't find anything through internet searching.
> Thanks
> -Kai Vierstra
> Brooklyn NY
>

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[RBW] Re: What are the worst shoes you rode in that turned out working great!

[Johan Larsson]

In summer I usually wear crocs. Great on platform pedals, worthless on 
pedals with a cage.

Johan,
Sweden

On Friday, August 22, 2014 6:44:24 AM UTC+2, lungimsam wrote:
>
> A lot of you Riv riders use regular shoes for riding.
>
> Have any stories about a time you got stuck at an event with a horrendous 
> set (street or otherwise), due to circumstances, but they turned out 
> working great anyway (or you made them work)?
> I remember once Manny posted pics of his laceless Vans he rode on a 200k, 
> I think it was. That must have been quite an experience.
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Fails

[Johan Larsson]

On Saturday, August 16, 2014 5:39:55 PM UTC+2, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Honestly, I'd just chalk it up to bad luck and not sweat it.
>

+1 

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[RBW] Re: MUSA Shorts

[Johan Larsson]

Been using my knickers for two seasons now, and I like them a lot. 
Comfortable, airy, seem durable, and a good length.

The seams at both back pockets came out in the corners after a month or 
two, I sew it back, just a few centimeters of seam, and nothing more 
happened since then. When I got them I was surprised that they didn't have 
side pockets on the thigh area, I just saw it as a natural thing that all 
practical pants have pockets there, but no... And that's a drawback with 
them, it's quite annoying even having a set of keys in the front or back 
pockets while riding a bike. Having a phone or a wallet there is 
impossible. Still like them a lot, as I said...

Johan Larsson,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Cover of Bicycle Times Magazine

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 4:52:36 PM UTC+2, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:
>
> Hey All,
>>
> Anyone know anything about the build specs of the Mr. Gray's Hunq? I'm 
> curious in general, but specifically about the bars.
> Thanks,
> Chris
> Redding, Ca. 
>

Looks like mtb-bars with about 15 degrees sweep, turned up side down. See 
on-one fleegle for an example, but there are many more. (It doesn't have to 
be a fancy bar just because it's a Rivendell...)

Johan Larsson,
Sweden 

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Re: [RBW] My Sam Hillborne is literally BOMBPROOF

[Johan Larsson]

On Tuesday, July 22, 2014 3:20:42 PM UTC+2, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>
> /.../
> That's some scary stuff man. Certainly puts the hazards of my daily 
> commute in perspective. 
> /.../
>

Lol, today I was a little irritated on that the side of the road wasn't 
swept so well.

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: About to start experimenting with centerpulls

[Johan Larsson]

On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 8:30:30 PM UTC+2, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> /.../
> Anyway, can anyone share about changing straight from modern dual pivot 
> caliper brakes to centerpulls and liking them better?  I'm interested to 
> hear about it.  
> /.../
>

Well, I liked Weinmann 610's better than the original (single pivot) brakes 
on my XO-1 because they had much better clearance for fenders. 40 mm 
Berthoud fenders worked well with those centerpull brakes while the 
original brakes only could handle 30 mm fenders. The Weinmann/Dia Compe 610 
brakes are as powerful as I could wish for, no problems at all.

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Cracked Ramboullet

[Johan Larsson]

On Thursday, July 4, 2013 1:58:59 PM UTC+2, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> The Ram dropouts are spaced at 132.5 so it is intended to take either 130 
> or 135 wheelsets and up to 37 mm tires. The crack was in the dropout. not 
> the tube in the famous "hack-fix" pictures. That should be very repairable 
> and yes, the current (Henry James?) dropouts used on the Waterford 
> Hillbornes look stouter to me.
>

The crack on Mike's Ram (old hack-fix pictures) is in the drop-out, just 
where it's going in to the chain stay.

And I just saw that my XO-1 apparently has 126 mm spacing - with a 135 mm 
wheel. I have an old 126 mm cassette hub in good condition that I might use 
in a new wheel though, but a better idea would really be spreading the 
frame to fit a standard 130 mm hub.

Michael Hechmer - if you click on "show more" on the flickr page, under the 
title, or just hold the cursor over that line (starts with "My Rambouillet 
broke today ...") you'll get the full story. 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157609818335769 And I 
don't think you scrolled all the way to the bottom of that page - there you 
see all parts used which makes it pretty obvious how it was held together.

Johan,
Sweden
 

>
> On Wednesday, June 26, 2013 10:37:04 AM UTC-5, Johan Larsson wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've seen a few experienced people write that cracks like that can happen 
>> because of mis-aligned dropouts, like if you are using a rear hub slightly 
>> narrower or wider than optimal. That said I've used a 135 mm hub on a bike 
>> designed for a 130 mm one for many years now...
>>
>> Johan,
>> Sweden
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Saddle tension lesson

[Johan Larsson]

I've seen people saying that this model stops sagging about when the 
tension screw is maxed out.

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Cracked Ramboullet

[Johan Larsson]

Did your chainstay break in the same way as the one in the pictures at 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41335973@N00/sets/72157609818335769 (linked 
from 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/x4j51xW9ZdA/RcrMlI6sp7IJ )?

I've seen a few experienced people write that cracks like that can happen 
because of mis-aligned dropouts, like if you are using a rear hub slightly 
narrower or wider than optimal. That said I've used a 135 mm hub on a bike 
designed for a 130 mm one for many years now...

Johan,
Sweden

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Re: [RBW] ISO Tektro or cheaper Linear "long" pull Interrupter Levers

[Johan Larsson]

So you actually have these levers and use them, and still can't see what 
the knobs do, if anything?

Johan,
Sweden

On Tuesday, May 21, 2013 4:43:13 AM UTC+2, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> They don't work like that for me.
>
> On Mon, May 20, 2013 at 8:05 PM, Philip Williamson 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> Are the red knobs some sort of reach adjuster? That maybe gives the 
>> _lever_ more slack?
>>
>> Just guessing,
>> Philip
>>
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>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>

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Re: [RBW] ISO Tektro or cheaper Linear "long" pull Interrupter Levers

[Johan Larsson]

Should be the image in question.

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[RBW] Re: Repainted and rebuilt low trail Hunqapillar

[Johan Larsson]

So what are your experiences with this fork, how did the bike ride before 
compared to now? Have you measured the geometry with the new fork?

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: How I made a quick release basket that can be installed and removed in seconds, or even one handed.

[Johan Larsson]

Function and usability comes way ahead before elegance, but that looks 
great too! Nice work.

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: are there any true 700x40 plush, high tpi tires?

[Johan Larsson]

As a note - if I have understood it correctly, Continental includes _all_ 
layers in their tpi value, i.e. their "180 tpi" tires have three layers of 
60 tpi casing. Please verify/debunk/explain this if someone have any 
knowledge about it...

I remember reading somewhere on wheelenergy.com that one of their findings 
was that a high tpi count in itself didn't mean much, if anything. From 
memory I think they said that tires with low thread count could perform 
just as well, and that other factors are more important.

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

[Johan Larsson]

On Monday, March 18, 2013 8:50:43 PM UTC+1, Michael wrote:
>
> In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
> question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
> anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
> life?
> Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
> accidents.


I can't give a definitive answer when to scrap your bars, but accidents do 
happen with old aluminium bars. An older guy I just spoke to became very 
concerned with this after a close friend of his had advanced facial surgery 
after his handlebar snapped. He fell straight on his face and got multiple 
scull/face fractures. Anecdotal evidence often are misleading, you really 
need proper statistics in the end, but his handlebars were quite old, 30-40 
years (seventies bike, original bars).

I'm quite sure failing old bars is a rare occurance, but I'm beginning to 
think about applying the same kind of attitude towards handlebars that I 
have on forks and helmets - that is that even if it's extremely rare with 
such accidents, the consequences can be severe if your fork brakes or you 
hit your head. This in turn means my bikes have steel forks, and I wear a 
helmet almost always when biking. I will definitely stay away from older 
exclusive/vintage lightweight bars.

Johan,
Sweden

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[RBW] Re: Give Your Canvas Bag a Wax Finish for Added Water Resistance

[Johan Larsson]

Waxing is most useful on clothes, where the movement and rubbing on the 
layers beneath otherwise could transfer a lot of water through the fabric. 
On a good tightly woven cotton bag that is hanging quite still, the fabric 
only gets a bit moist on the inside. If something, waxing a bag should slow 
down the drying of things inside it considerably. If I had a canvas bag 
that leaked through, I would first try to only wax the top, maybe also the 
front, so it and things inside could dry out as good as possibly. That 
moisture easily can evaporate through the fabric is in my opinion the 
biggest advantage the traditional cotton duck bags have over synthetic ones.

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Super Motos -- anyone?

[Johan Larsson]

I used them for one summer, felt great and had no punctures. Gave a slight 
sensation of folding over when cornering on pavement since I had rather low 
pressure. Worked best on softer grounds, gravel and trails, and I rode them 
pretty hard regularly on a stony trail with fist-sized sharp rocks which I 
just could go over full speed. The same trail demanded walking pace using a 
bike with 35 mm schwalbe marathon tires.

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[RBW] Re: Brooks saddle "breathes" ... sort of.

[Johan Larsson]

On Sunday, December 30, 2012 5:31:33 AM UTC+1, Michael wrote:
>
> At least, in this colder weather, I am pretty sure I can feel it 
> "breathing" through the 3 holes in my B17 saddle.
> Maybe this is what they mean by "breathing".
> Grant wrote that he puckered up and blew on a saddle and couldn't feel any 
> air go through.
> But perhaps Brooks means the air passes through the three holes of the B17?
>

"Breathing" when it concerns materials is about transportation of water 
molecules, not air. A leather saddle "breathes" because it can take up, and 
distribute the moisture from your behind and let it evaporate through the 
saddles surface. It has nothing to do with transportation or exchange of 
air, even though air in practice is the transportation medium of the water 
vapor outside the leather.

As an example and clarification of an discussion I've seen about this, 
treating the underside of a leather saddle would indeed make it breathe 
worse. The vapor/steam pressure between your behind and saddle is 
comparatively high, and water is forced into the leather. If the saddle is 
untreated on the underside the water can evaporate more easily from there, 
beacuse the fat and waxes in leather treatment is designed to stop water 
from passing through, doesn't matter if it's coming from the outside or 
inside. If you should or should not treat the underside of the saddle 
however, is another question - but very far from an important one - as it 
works well both ways.

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

[Johan Larsson]

It gets me a little worried that these misconceptions about bicycle tubing 
can spread even more... I'd like to add to your explanation Bill M., with 
something from this ironworker rebar bending perspective, the one that got 
Grant confused. If a man bending rebar can steer someone away from facts, 
common knowledge and engineering fundamentals, maybe another steelbender 
can get him onto track again?


If you put a piece of rebar in a vise, lets say you have three feet of it 
sticking straight up, and start to bend it you will notice it's quite 
flexible and springy. If you bend it a little and then let go, it springs 
back. But how much can you pull it before it doesn't spring all the way 
back? You grab the top of the rebar and pull about four inches before you 
let go. Ok, it goes back, straight up. Five inches? Six? Nothing. Eight? 
No. Darn, this rebar is pretty strong. Ok, you'll just pull until you feel 
something happening... and so you start pulling, harder and harder - 
digging your front foot down in the dirt, leaning back very slowly and 
carefully, more and more, grabbing the end of that rebar with your hands, 
and suddenly you feel that it gives a little. You stop, hold it there, and 
estimates that the end is about 30 inches out away from the vise. When you 
then let go of the rebar, it goes back, but not fully. You see that it has 
been bent some. Now you take another piece of rebar, absolutely identical 
to the first when just looking at it - same length, exactly the same 
diameter, and you put it in the vise in the same way as the first. You 
start pulling, using the same grip as when you were bending the first one. 
You lean back more and more, slowly, trying to estimate how far you are 
pulling it. 20 inches... 25... ok, coming close to the bending point now... 
closer... closer... Hmm, what? Haven't I pulled it too much now? Oh yeah, 
this must be a little further than where I took the first rebar. So you let 
go, and it springs back all the way, straight as an arrow. Now you put the 
two rebar rods next to each other in the vise. The first one is bent, but 
luckily long enough to be turned upside down and adjusted to the same 
length as before, and you make the two rods stand up equally long. And this 
is the moment where you finally get some use for your uncles old mining 
conveyor belt tension testing device that has gathered dust under the work 
bench in the garage for many years! (It's actually just like a heavy-duty 
fish scale - a handle in one end, a clamp in the other, and in between a 
box with a gauge.) You go get it, and clamp it to the end of the first 
rebar. You pull it about 25 inches, since it started to deform at about 30 
when you tried it previously, and notice that it takes 23 conveyor belt 
units of force to bend it that much. Now you attach it to the second rebar 
and bend it 25 inches too. Ok, 23 units here as well. How much does it take 
to permanently bend the first piece of rebar? You hook it up and start to 
pull. 25 inches... coming close to 30... and yes, there, it gived a little 
- it started to deform. The gauge showed 30 when that happened. (For a 
second you consider the possibility that units of conveyor belt testing 
devices are defined by bending pieces of rebar, but shake the thought 
away.) When you then pull the second rebar with 30 units of force, it bends 
just as much as the first one, but no sign of giving. So you put some 
effort into it - leaning back even further and lowering your butt, thinking 
it's a good thing that clamp is of industrial quality. And just as you 
think you maybe can't bend it at all, that you might be able to actually 
hang from the end of that rebar that now is arched almost like a fishing 
rod, then you get that feeling of the iron getting soft, that it gives, and 
you can lower yourself all the way until you're sitting on the ground, 
pulling the rebar with you. "Whoa", you're thinking, "_that_ was some 
strong rebar". You forgot to look at the tension tester device when sitting 
down like that, but it doesn't matter actually.

Ok - to sum this up, there clearly was two different kind of rebars 
involved. The first, weaker one, was standard quality, the second a higher 
grade - stronger. They flexed exactly the same - bent exactly the same for 
a given force. It was impossible to notice any difference in the bending, 
the springiness and flexing. That is, of course, until the first, weaker 
rebar, gave up. It broke at 30 units of force. Not broke as in fell apart, 
but it got plastically deformed. It crashed but still kept together, and 
did so at 30 units. The second rebar was of a stronger kind of steel - it 
could take 30 with no problem, 40 also. It took maybe twice the force to 
deform the stronger rebar than needed for the weaker one. Still, again - 
the two pieces of rebar flexed just the same up to 29 force units, up until 
when the weaker rebar gave. The stronger one continued to flex when loaded 
more, u

Re: [RBW] Re: Mystery Bike Test Ride

[Johan Larsson]

Strange that the clearances are that tight. It's also pretty strange that 
it can fit wider tires/fenders than the brakes can handle. (Tektro 559 I 
assume?) Seems like cantilever brake mounts should have been more 
appropriate.

Johan,
Sweden

On Monday, September 3, 2012 2:47:43 PM UTC+2, Pudge wrote:
>
>  Well, I was going to wait till it was fully built -- fenders, racks, 
> bags, the works.  But the inevitable glitches reared their ugly heads: 41mm 
> Marathons don't permit 52mm VO fenders, so tried terra cotta SOMA Xpress, 
> which permit the fenders, but then it turns out that the brakes aren't wide 
> enough for the fenders (and in any case Grant urged the EA group not to use 
> tires < 38mm (pedal strike issues), which may eliminate the ~35mm New 
> Xpress rubber as a solution. (Nice looking, though!). Before I remove the 
> entire Mark's Rack/Platracks/fender-mounted-with-daruma assembly to try 
> them, does anyone know whether Paul Racers have better fender clearance 
> than the Tektro side pulls on the bike now?
>
>  Anyway, maybe time to post a few shots without all the accoutrements, to 
> prove (as Manny would say) that the bike actually can be ridden!
>
>
>  
> On Sep 1, 2012, at 4:30 PM, "Marc Irwin" > 
> wrote:
>
>   we still like pictures!
>
> On Thursday, August 30, 2012 1:30:05 AM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote: 
>>
>> I don't need pictures to prove it happened, I can see you grinning!  
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 28, 2012 10:11:25 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote: 
>>>
>>>  Oh, boy...
>>>  
>>> Fixed the bent derailleur hanger and dropout on my Mystery Bike, 
>>> finished a quick basic assembly last night, and took it for a brief trial 
>>> run (no lights, so only a couple of miles) around the neighborhood.
>>>  
>>> Verdict: Wow.  It's unquestionably the must luxurious bike I've ever 
>>> ridden -- smoothes out bumps like they weren't there (~40mm Marathons may 
>>> have something to do with that, but they're certainly not the most supple 
>>> mid-fat tire in the line-up, so I think it's mostly the bike).  Not just a 
>>> Cadillac -- it's a Rolls limo.  But at the same time it handles 
>>> beautifully, goes exactly where it's pointed (even at very low speeds), and 
>>> is insanely comfortable in the saddle.  And the most amazing thing is that 
>>> with the Bullmoose Bosco bars, when I stood up to mash on a high gear 
>>> uphill (the derailleur/shifter was slipping, so I didn't shift much -- I'll 
>>> work on that tonight), it was as if somebody had reached down and made the 
>>> perfect bike/fit for me alone.  The grips were in the perfect spot; 
>>> everything seemed perfectly aligned; it was really almost too easy.
>>>  
>>> This bike is a home run.
>>>  
>>> It's going to be my main commuter and errand bike, so it's getting a 
>>> Platrack with large Wald basket and large Shopsack on the front, and a 
>>> large Nitto Rear Rack on the back, probably with some Swift Industries 
>>> Short Stack panniers.  SON hub with Supernova lights front and rear.  VO 
>>> fluted aluminum fenders.  And maybe even some of them-there Thin Gripsters, 
>>> too.  Or maybe a set of Hillbubba's Grip King Deluxes.
>>>  
>>> Woo-hoo!
>>>
>>>  --
>>> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@
>>> googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *clamp...@cox.net
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 15, 2012 5:29 PM
>>> *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Mystery Bike!
>>>
>>>  Has this particular bike or any of the other ones been posted as a 
>>> completed build?   I really, really like the look of the one posted in this 
>>> thread.  
>>> On Tuesday, August 7, 2012 12:11:53 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote: 

 Is here, but no time to assemble.  But here's a pic... 

 No name, no decals. We can call it whatever we want! 


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[RBW] Re: New Shimano 7-speed group

[Johan Larsson]

There are many new hybrid/city bikes with 7-speed trigger shifters that 
works very well. Those wide range Shimano freewheels are of quite bad 
quality in my experience, they wear out fast.

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[RBW] Re: Does your Brooks B17 look a little tilted and twisted from behind?

[Johan Larsson]

I wouldn't worry even a little yet, wait a few months and see what happens.

Some leather saddles do get asymmetrical however, and it is almost 
exclusively because of faulty leather. Many agree on that the leather 
quality of Brooks saddles have decreased over the years, but as I 
understand it it's not entirely Brooks' fault. Good quality leather is hard 
to find, and quite expensive. One explanation I've heard for lower leather 
quality is that cattle is growing so fast now, and slaughtered so early, 
that the leather doesn't get a chance to develop as it should. Sounds 
plausible at least. Brooks are trying their best though, I'm sure of that, 
and all I've seen is that they are good at replacing faulty saddles, but of 
course it's the shop were you bought it that deals with Brooks, so your 
shop must be service-minded to start with. Also, Brooks do have a new 
special selection of saddles with high quality leather from Sweden, that 
should address the problems with bad leather. Higher price of course, but 
I'm thinking it may be worth it. The cattle is organically farmed, and the 
leather vegetable-tanned. Then again, the Berthoud saddles are really, 
really nice I must say, and my next saddle will probably be a Berthoud.

Johan,
Sweden


Examples of mis-shaped Brooks, those easy to find on the web (at least one 
is probably not mis-shaped due to bad leather...):









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[RBW] Re: Should one grease between stem and handlebar?

[Johan Larsson]

The only "grease" I've ever put there also contained a carbide powder - 
valve grinding paste, an old trick to prevent the bars from slipping...

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[RBW] Re: New Pletscher Zoom Kickstand

[Johan Larsson]

If possible, I'd like to see a photo of it flipped up as well. Is it 
sticking out a tad more than the original?

/Johan

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[RBW] Re: Not as pretty as the new Herse cranks, but ...

[Johan Larsson]

What makes the Herse crank really stand out in my opinion is the ability to 
set it up as a double with a small chainring, 48/28 for example, while 
keeping tread/q-factor as low as possible.

/Johan

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[RBW] Re: My 650B conversion progress report

[Johan Larsson]

What tires are that? And how much clearance is there with those, especially 
at the fork?

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[RBW] Re: Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

[Johan Larsson]

What works best for me is looking at how much the tires compress when 
sitting on or riding the bike. I have yet to see any consistency with 
trying to estimate a good pressure by squeezing the tires with your 
fingers, especially on tires of different widths.

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[RBW] Re: Done talking myself into like the moustache.

[Johan Larsson]

On Sunday, April 8, 2012 7:41:57 AM UTC+2, Scotty wrote:
>
> I have given myself about a year to like my moustache handlebars. I really 
> want to like them, they look so freaking good on my bike, but I dont. Now I 
> am just not sure what direction I want to go, but I know that I want to be 
> more upright, and I dont want to replace the whole cockpit. I want bars 
> that will take my roadbike brake levers and bar end shifters. Even with the 
> dirt drop stem I feel I am leaning forward too far in the position where 
> the brakes are. I could use some suggestions for bars that give me a closer 
> flat section near the brakes that wont force me to buy everything new. Just 
> the bar. Am I dreaming?


(Hmm,  there seem to have been some problem with my previous post - it 
doesn't show up, and I can see one post that have been deleted...? Was 
there some problems with it?)

Anyway, if you want to have something somewhat similar to the Moustache 
bar, you must prepare to switch brake levers. I don't know of any other 
similar bar in 23.8 mm, and also you need a pretty specific curvature for 
road levers to work. The only two 22.2 mm bars I know of that can take 
bar-end shifters are the Nitto Albatross and the Soma Oxford. Other than 
that you can modify and drill out the ends of other handlebars to make them 
fit the shifters. I've done it with the Nitto 603, but it's not easy. If 
you aren't absolutely certain you can do it, don't do it yourself.

But - why not just try a really short stem first? There are shorter stems 
that are as high as the short dirt drop stem. I've seen a few old ones that 
probably have a 20-30 mm extension, though I don't really know if they are 
easy to find. Ask around and see what the LBS have.

/Johan

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[RBW] Re: Done talking myself into like the moustache.

[Johan Larsson]

First - I guess you'll *have *to use other brake levers if you want to 
switch bars to something even vaguely similar to the Moustache. After that 
there are only a few bars that can take bar end shifters - the Albatross 
most notably, and Soma Oxford are the only ones I know of. If you have the 
skills and tools or know a good machine shop, there is always the 
possibility to drill out the ends of some standard handlebars. I've done it 
myself by hand, but don't recommend it.

But why not try an even shorter stem, 30 mm reach or so, first?

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[RBW] Re: recent Atlantis changes

[Johan Larsson]

What, no front low rider mounts? That's remarkably strange. As for the 
three mounts on the seat stays, I can't really guess  what the lowest ones 
are for (an extra set of low mounts on the stays would be very useful on a 
bike with disc brakes though), but aren't the top ones just for a regular 
back rack? and I've brazed mounts in the middle of the seat stays on my 
bike for custom low rider racks, inspired by such bikes as you can see on 
http://www.cycles-alex-singer.fr/catalogue/cyclo-camping.html for example. 

The threads on top of the fork crown are surely for a "porteur" rack.

/Johan

On Friday, February 24, 2012 4:02:25 AM UTC+1, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
>
> No low rider mounts. That would be nice. The Tubus Duo is a favorite rack 
> of mine. There are threaded holes in the top of the crown. I have a few 
> ideas for that, but maybe there's a devoted rack? The front dropouts are 
> like little satan heads with horns sticking out.
>
> The seat stays have three hourglass braze-ons in each side - top, middle, 
> and bottom - in addition to the double eyelets on the dropouts. 
>
> The chainstay length with an XT long cage rder and a 46/32(or 34) combo 
> maxed out a 114L SRAM chain. I don't think it would have worked with a 48t 
> big ring and/or a 36t big cog. But the heel clearance with panniers must be 
> amazing!
>
> Sorry. No pics, and the Atlantis has left the building.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kojak!

[Johan Larsson]

I can also recommend the Kojak 35 mm's. Being close to 33 mm on "standard" 
rims they are the absolute max what I can squeeze in on my XO-1 with 
fenders, and I've enjoyed them for two years now. Would love to be able to 
fit the larger 2"/50 mm ones, but I have to find another bike for that. 
Anyway, I can't recall that I've had a single flat with the Kojak's, and 
I've also outrolled many people on supposedly fast(er) tires.

/Johan

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[RBW] Re: What kind of mustache wax to use?

[Johan Larsson]

If I remember correctly, "Stern" is the top choice for moustasch wax. It 
was definitely Hungarian, but I'll check with my source and get back if 
wrong. http://www.bartwichse.de/

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