[RBW] Re: Cranky Crank & VO Replacement

2014-06-18 Thread Scott G.
Sugino makes two more 110/74 triples, both without the hidden bolt.

Alpina 2
http://store.somafab.com/sual10scr.html

801T
http://www.alexscycle.com/cranks/road-1-2-3-4-5-6/sugino-tour-801t-triple-crankset.html

Never seen an 801T, seems it is the triple version of the Mighty Tour 2000 
series AL hi-zoot crank.

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Re: [RBW] Re: synergy rims (again?)

2014-06-10 Thread Scott Shelton
Is it possible the rims were older stock, prior to Velocity beefing up the
eyelet area?


On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 6:02 AM, MobileBill  wrote:

> Thanks to all for comments and advice.
> Jim, I did remove the qr and cleaned, but no change. I'll replace it
> entirely and see if that makes a difference.
> The hairline cracks are still small -- not yet as extended as the ones on
> my first rim -- but they are clearly developing spreading an inch or so
> from a couple of eyelets in either direction. I also decided to check the
> OC rims on the Betty, and I see them developing there as well.
> Front synergy rims, by the way, show little signs of wear or trouble after
> almost 19,000 miles.
>
> On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 5:51:14 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> On 06/09/2014 11:50 PM, Nanga Parbat wrote:
>> > That is scary. I just ordered a set of synergy rims for a new build. I
>> > would suggest advising the wheel builder and then contacting Velocity.
>> > I think Velocity would want to clear up your case quickly, especially
>> > being your second OC rim. Good customer service would only benefit
>> > Velocity
>> > and this group should be on their radar.
>> >
>>
>> Velocity's customer service on this issue in the past has been
>> outstanding.
>>
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Re: [RBW] TRP CX8.4 mini Vs on Atlantis

2014-06-03 Thread Scott G.

Has anyone tried the current Tektro Road V levers with 
the 9 or 8.4 v brakes. ?  Would the 9s have more clearance
and be less abrupt the V levers ?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

2014-05-27 Thread Scott Henry
I don't know the thread, it should be easy to find on the Park website, but
a 15mm crankbolt will thread right in.They should work better, and able
to take more torque than the allen head bolts.

Good luck.
Scott


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:04 AM, Jim Bronson  wrote:

> Most cranks I have ever used/seen have an 8mm or 10mm hex wrench.  Are
> these 15mm 6 point bolts compatible?  What is the thread size?
>
>
> On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 9:59 AM, john muhl  wrote:
>
>> On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 9:57 AM, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>>> What is a peanut butter wrench?
>>>
>>
>> http://www.compasscycle.com/cranks_wrench.html
>>
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>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Why Wear a Helmet?

2014-05-19 Thread Scott Henry
Cinelli Leather Hairnet.   Black.   Period.




On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 12:52 PM,  wrote:

> I was wondering the same thing.
> Who sells a helmet that is:
> - MUSA
> - Reusable or repairable (eek!)
> - made from a material thought to be out of date but that offers superior
> long term durability
> - Values practicality & classic aesthetic over performance and space age
> aesthetic
> - Is lugged
> - Is Steel
> - Is Wool
>
> -J, tongue firmly in cheek
>
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Re: [RBW] Why Wear a Helmet?

2014-05-19 Thread Scott Henry
I am 100% against helmet laws.
That is not 100% against helmets, just against the laws which require
persons to wear them.

I wear my helmet every time I ride on a pay-to-play ride where they require
them.   Past that I'll take some fresh air thank you.

The pie chart really just makes me laugh.   I saw a 3 year old on training
wheels hit the curb yesterday in my neighborhood.   She was going maybe 2
miles an hour and fell over into the grass.   She was helmetless and
laughing.   Apparently lucky to be alive.

Scott


On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 11:06 AM, Shoji Takahashi  wrote:

> Patrick, thanks for bringing up skiing/snow sports:
>
> From NYT (
> http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/01/sports/on-slopes-rise-in-helmet-use-but-no-decline-in-brain-injuries.html?_r=0
> ):
>>
>> Although skiers and snowboarders in the United States are wearing helmets
>> more than ever — 70 percent of all participants, nearly triple the number
>> from 2003 — there has been no reduction in the number of
>> snow-sports-related fatalities or brain injuries in the country, according
>> to the National Ski Areas Association.
>
>
> The article goes on to discuss higher-risk behaviors in which skiers and
> snow boarders are now engaging (e.g., faster speeds, higher jumps, back
> country areas). Some researchers are looking at "P.S.H.I.’s, for
> potentially serious head injuries, a classification that includes
> concussion, skull fracture, closed head injury, traumatic brain injury and
> death by head injury", of which there does not appear to be a decline.
>
>
>
> On Monday, May 19, 2014 10:43:13 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I think Edwin is on the track of the right question: exactly how
>> dangerous is cycling? From the statistics I've read, not that dangerous,
>> less dangerous than walking, IIRC.
>>
>> Is cycling more dangerous than skiing? Do skiiers wear helmets? What
>> about people showering in poreclain-covered bathtubs? Or climbing ladders
>> to change light bulbs? Or crossing urban intersections on foot? Or running
>> cross country?
>>
>> A helmet will make all the difference in the world, perhaps, if you fall
>> in one of these situations, but is it worth our while to wear helmets for
>> them?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 19, 2014 at 5:25 AM, Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> I would love to see the same chart for car wrecks. Walking deaths. Stair
>>> falls. For biking in the Netherlands.
>>> I know a guy who was in a bike crash. He lived, with no head injury. He
>>> was not wearing a helmet. I'm not convinced that is why he lived, with no
>>> head injury, but it is a correlation.
>>>
>>> Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't,
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>
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Re: [RBW] Cup/Cone Hub Maintenance Frequency

2014-05-07 Thread Scott Henry
I would be hard pressed to find a LBS that couldn't get you bearings.
QBP lists over 20 different loose ball bearing items in different sizes and
grades.


On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 9:58 AM, Hugh Flynn  wrote:

> Bikeman - nice.
>
> I've actually been to the Bikeman shop as they are  semi-local to me (if
> you count a shop two states away as semi-local). I hadn't thought of them
> as a source for bearings. Back in the day they used to be a great source
> for discontinued "classic" mt. bike parts.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> On May 7, 2014, at 9:53 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I buy BOCA bearings, and from his mailing list, he'll send you discounts
> and sales all the time (that's when I buy them, to keep the cost down...)
> Here's the place for cones
>
> http://www.bikeman.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BIKEMAN&Category_Code=Campagnolo_Cones&CpField=&CpValue=&SortBy=name-asc&show=500
>
> On Wednesday, May 7, 2014 8:14:24 AM UTC-5, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>>
>> Many thanks for the input.
>>
>> It looks like I'm past due for overhauls on a few of my wheels then. They
>> still roll smoothly, but could probably use a greece refresh.
>>
>> Next question: Where are people buying bearings? I used to order mine
>> through loose screws, but I see they have left the business.
>>
>> Hugh Flynn
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
>>
>> On May 7, 2014, at 9:03 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> Hugh, I rolled 20,000 miles on Zeus GS hubs rebuilding them about every
>> 5000 miles.  Just this year I noticed a gritty rear cone.  I'm taking the
>> approach with my used C-Record hubs of rebuilding them every year, and
>> replacing the balls, and using ceramic - this is my go-fast, and a
>> high-mileage bike for me.
>> For lower mileage, I would recommend rebuilding them every 3-5 years for
>> the sake of the grease - it will slowly decompose to wax and mild acid over
>> time.
>>
>> On Monday, May 5, 2014 11:56:00 AM UTC-5, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>>>
>>> Starting a new thread with this as I'm heading off on a slightly
>>> tangental path:
>>>
>>> How frequently do folks overhaul their cup/cone hubs?
>>>
>>> I have too many bikes to make this a yearly task, so I just check my
>>> hubs periodically and replace bearings/cones/grease if something starts to
>>> feel gritty or otherwise unpleasant. I have some wheels that haven't
>>> required attention in 10 years (curiously, they were all built with the
>>> Suntour XC front hubs Riv had on sale about 10 years ago…). Others, like
>>> those my winter bike, require yearly maintenance after the snow/salt bath
>>> that is New England winter cycling.
>>>
>>> Freehub lubrication is something I haven't been able to get right yet
>>> though. Are the freehub bodies that are sold on non-shimano hubs easier to
>>> service than shimano freehub bodies?
>>>
>>> I have an Ultegra freehub that has seen better much better days, but I
>>> have not been able to figure out a good way to get grease/oil into the
>>> thing. Perhaps it's time to consider an oil bath like we used to do with
>>> freewheels.
>>>
>>> Hugh "dry ride" Flynn
>>> Newburyport, MA
>>>
>>>
>>> On May 5, 2014, at 12:29 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, May 5, 2014 9:05:58 AM UTC-7, eflayer wrote:

 the law of diminishing returns does set in at some point:

 "The law of diminishing returns is a classic economic concept that
 states that as more investment in an area is made, overall return on that
 investment increases at a declining rate, assuming that all variables
 remain fixed. To continue to make an investment after a certain point
 (which varies from context to context) is to receive a decreasing return on
 that input."

 You might consider moving up a notch, but not all the way to bling.
 Maybe cartridge bearings and lower weight would be fun to play with, and...

>>>
>>> I don't know, for the biggest "bang for the buck," it is hard to beat
>>> Shimano. Yes, they have loose ball bearings that require periodic
>>> maintenance and Shimano hubs are not the lightest. But for durability and
>>> quietness, nothing beats them.  I usually get Dura Ace or Ultegra hubs, but
>>> that is because I *think* their cups and cones and better polished and
>>> should last longer. Further, if you buy from one of the UK retailers,
>>> DA/ultegra hubs are substantially cheaper than most of the boutiques like
>>> King,Phi, White, DT, etc. Good Luck!
>>>

 The bikehubstore.com seems to have a fine reputation for selling good
 stuff and providing good service. All that said, if you don't care about
 weight and mostly about utility, then I think you won't experience any
 level of disappointment with nearly anything from Shimanoand they are
 famous for not making that aggravating pawl click noise found in even the
 most expensive.

 http://www.bikehubstore.com/category-s/144.htm

>>>

 On Monday, May 5, 2014 8:14:15 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

> Pricing out parts for m

[RBW] Re: Find your own stick!

2014-04-24 Thread Scott G.
Does this mean that Riv is planning a Vernon Blake edition of the SimpleOne 
?

>From Classic Lightweights.. 

"The floating chain systems as used by Blake features a triple chain ring 
and single freewheel on each side of the rear hub. A steel pulley was 
fitted to the rear drop-out which was needed to prevent the chain coming 
off when in low gear.  He also fitted a couple of chain guides to the chain 
stay. Down changes were made with the toe and up ones via a small metal 
hook used to pick up the chain. Blake became very expert at this and could 
make changes at speed. (3). He had a solution to one of the problems 
encountered by modern mountain bikers when using the small chainring in 
very muddy conditions: that of ‘chain suck’:"

Scott G.

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Re: [RBW] Drum Brakes and Dynomos

2014-04-17 Thread Scott Henry
I don't have any experience with drum/dynamo combos.  But with each
independently.

The drum brake that I have is a Sturmey Archer, sorry unsure of the model.
 It works amazingly well, its just big and heavy.   Technically, it should
make for a stronger wheel, even more than a dynamo hub, the large hub
flanges make for shorter spokes.

The hub will go right on with no problem, there will be a bolt on cable
stop / brake arm mount that will wrap around the fork leg.   Other than
that its quite easy to install and use.   I will assume the brake arm will
go on the left fork blade and the dynamo wires will go up the right.

Not mine but here is a pic of one installed:
http://www.63xc.com/jameslee/fig2.jpg

Keep us posted, seems like a cool upgrade.
Scott





On Thu, Apr 17, 2014 at 9:57 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> At some point in the future I will likely need to beef up my front rim to
> an Atlas to match my rear rim. At such point replacing the front hub with a
> dynamo/drum brake combo hub is something I am toying with, especially as
> I’ve found more area dirt roads to ride and nighttime rides would open up
> some things. My questions are as follows:
>
> Drum brakes:
> — Why are drum brakes not used much?
> — How practical are they for rugged, steep single track?
> — It seems they would address the snow/mud/muck loss of braking issues I
> sometimes experience. Is this true?
> — Does my frame need anything special, or will they simply go on?
>
> Dynamo:
> — How hearty are they (and the accompanying lights) on rugged single
> track? Will they hold up or be fussy?
>
> Thanks!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org <http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org>*
> *www.OurHolyConception.org <http://www.OurHolyConception.org>*
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed cassette question

2014-04-15 Thread Scott Henry
Deacon,
Its worth a try, and yes, its really just that easy.

The top pulley has a little wiggle room, to help the pulley line up with
the cog for index shifts.  The lower pulley is rigid.   It SHOULD give a
more precise friction shift.

Swap them and try.   Its can't hurt at all.   From memory, I thinks its
just a 3mm allen bolt.   Just make sure you firm them back up, maybe even
some blue locktite (or beeswax for Rivy people).  If the bolt backs out
while riding you absolutely will not find all the pieces on the trailside.


Ask me how I know.

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Do tell more about the pulley swap! Is it really so simple as swapping the
> pulleys? Nothing else to it?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 15, 2014 1:47:09 PM UTC-6, Zack wrote:
>>
>> Shoji - Yep, Chris suggested this to me as well, we talked it over on our
>> awesome ride out to Mason Hill this weekend.  I plan on doing the pulley
>> swap regardless, but haven't done so yet.  I am set on trying the 7 speed
>> out, as it's time to swap cassettes and chains anyways, and I want to give
>> it a shot.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Single-Chainring Drivetrains

2014-03-26 Thread Scott Henry
I think that for people who tend to ride bikes to the extent that they are
on this list would be fairly well versed in bike maintenance.   Thus doing
things like preventative maintenance shouldn't be that big of a deal.   I
tend to install a new chain about once a year, I actually just ordered 2
for some weekend garage time.

I run my Handsome Speedy as a 1x (8or9 depending on the wheelset) and never
care too much about cross chaining or anything else on it.  It might wear
my chain a tad faster, but it is only going to be used for a season anyway.
  $15 toss a new one on and forget it for another year.

I will be honest, and say that on my other multi-ring bikes I try not to
crosschain, but that is another story.  For a 1x it just isnt really a big
deal.  (to me)

Cheers,
Scott
Dayton, OH




On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 7:02 PM, HunqRider  wrote:

> Bobby,
> It's all about simplicity.  I used to ride a bike with all the different
> gears, a Garmin GPS to track my mileage and speed, a cadence meter, etc.  I
> just got sick of all that extra stuff.  On my new bike, I originally had
> the double chainrings, but I was never using the big ring, so it made sense
> to ditch it and go for the 1x8 setup; easier to keep clean, less to think
> about while riding.  Even now I hardly ever spend any time in the small
> cogs, so I'm not cross-chaining for a large % of my riding time.  If I
> lived in area that was flatter, I'd like to go with a single-speed, but
> alas, I need some gears for the hills.
>
>
> On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 1:08:55 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>>
>> Sorry, but I'm just not getting (or buying into) this 1x fad... AND I
>> believe chain line is really important and cross-chaining IS bad, despite
>> what some claim about their ridiculous 1x11 setups.  Someone please
>> convince me otherwise.  WHAT is so awful about a front derailleur and a
>> triple chain ring??? It provides all the gear range one could ever want,
>> and enables maintaining a straighter chain line (no extreme
>> cross-chaining!!)... The very thought of using the full range of rear cogs
>> on a single front chain ring makes me cringe.  Now, perhaps a 1x3 (using
>> only 3 centered cogs in the rear) makes more sense (but then you'd have
>> only a 3 speed).  I like my 21 speeds, thank you.
>>
>> I can almost understand if you're a racer, and front mis-shifts have cost
>> you valuable time; then I suppose losing the front shifter may be worth the
>> tradeoff.  Otherwise, I ain't gettin it...  That said, please feel free to
>> send me your unwanted front derailleurs...
>>
>> Peace,
>>
>> Bobby (feelin grinchy) Birmingham
>>
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[RBW] Re: Boat Anchoring

2014-03-21 Thread Scott G.
My friend Dale explained as you get older the bike has to get 
lighter to maintain a constant speed.

So 20 somethings should ride Raleigh DL-1s, 60 somethings
get steel Colnagos with carbon tubular wheels.
Once you reach 70, special carbon rando bikes with FMB 40mm
tubies.

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Re: [RBW] Graduation gift for a lady

2014-03-18 Thread Scott Henry
You are quickly getting a pretty good list.  With lots of good ideas.

I will +1 on the She Devil.   Handsome Cycles has been a great company to
deal with and as the proud owner of a Speedy, I can honestly say it is one
of my favorite bikes.

I'm not sure on the tire clearance, as mine is only running 35 paselas, but
I can say that there is tons of room.   The web says clearance for 700x40
but I am almost sure you could go bigger than that.   Handsome was a
pleasure to deal with and have been great whenever I have interacted with
them either on the phone or on social media.

And congrats to her.
Scott




On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 11:17 AM, Conway Bennett <
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey folks,
>
> My lady friend is graduating from graduate school and I am thinking about
> buying her a proper bike.  I did get her a cinzia folding bike for $50 from
> San Sntonio CL while we were visiting TX last winter but she doesn't ride
> it much but would ride a real bike.  I would prefer a new frame so I'm
> thinking a Handsome She Devil.  It's the only decent production mixte I
> know of with clearance for chubby tires.
>
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[RBW] New version of the AllRounder?

2014-03-17 Thread Scott Shelton
Hello RBW,
Is there any interest in Rivendell making a new version of the AllRounder? 
I know they make similar frames, however, in a 58cm/86 PBH or greater all 
RIV non custom frames are made for 700c wheels.
I am currently riding a late 80's Specialized mountain bike with drop bars, 
I really enjoy the light, nimble feel of the 26" wheels with 1.5 or 1.75 
tires.
For most mountain trails and fire roads the 26" wheel is just fine. I can't 
justify a $3500 custom frame set to get a 58cm Atlantis with 26" wheels.
I have ridden wide 700c off road and although they do "roll" over obstacles 
better than 26",however, they are in no way nimble and are noticeabley 
slower to accellerate.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
Cheers



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[RBW] Re: Grant on tires

2014-03-14 Thread Scott G.




Moderation in all things,

Schwalbe Ultremo 28mm, not as fragile as a GB, but not a flying tank.

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[RBW] Re: Grant's Overseas Trip - What do you want?

2014-03-13 Thread Scott G.


On Thursday, March 13, 2014 11:27:37 AM UTC-4, RJM wrote:
>
> I would like to see riv come out with a crankset.
>  
>

How about the Sugino 801t?

http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/products/touring/mighty.html 

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[RBW] WTB:56cm Altantis or 57 AllRounder

2014-03-12 Thread Scott Shelton
Hello,
Anyone want to let one of these bikes or framesets ?
Cheers

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Re: [RBW] Poll: What are your single speed gears?

2014-03-12 Thread Scott Henry
I use a 42x18 on a 700x28 wheel.   There are a few uphills where it gets
rough, but then I just walk.   Its pretty standard gearing.  I'm too old
for a 42x16 anymore.  I have to figure that for most of us, our bikes back
in the day usually came with a 42x21 low gear.So a 42x18 fixed is
pretty functional.

For going downhill fixed, just take your feet off the pedals.  Its much
easier than shifting gears.
Scott


On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 3:10 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I have a build concept for a SimpleBeam kind of thing.  The steep hill I
> live on completely rules out a singlespeed for the uphill part, and rules
> out riding fixed for the downhill part.  Still, I notice that for my
> commute I use a particular small handful of gears.  It makes me think that
> it is plausible for me to build a 2-speed, using a White 16/19 on the back
> and two chainrings on the front with 3-teeth of difference, so I could have
> one rear wheel position.
>
> Right now my concept is a 35/38 in front with the 16/19 in back.  My two
> gears: 35x19 and 38x16 would be 50" and 64" with 27" diameter wheels
> (700x32).
> On a 110mm BCD, I could alternatively easily run a 36/39, a 39/42, a 40/43
> or a 42/45 in front without having to chase down any weird chainrings.
> On a 94mm BCD, I could run a 29/32 for offroady stuff.
>
> As a shifting maneuver, I'd loosen the right side bolt.  Stick-shift the
> chain from big-to-small and then from small-to-big.  Then tighten the right
> side bolt again and ride away.
>
> Anyway, by my numbers, spinning at 110RPM with a 27" diameter wheel is
> 21mph, which is plenty fast for road cruising for me, especially when I can
> coast downhills.  I think I can handle the 50" gear up my hill as well.
>
> I wonder what others feel they need.  I know Patrick Moore zens out with a
> slow metronome cadence climbing with 70-something gear inches.  Who else
> thinks my two speeds are a bad idea?
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Appaloosa Prototype on Blug?

2014-03-12 Thread Scott Henry
>>>Wheel diameter tire width has a significant impact on a bike's ride
quality and handling.  There is no way a frame can be designed to work well
with multiple wheel diameters.<<<

To an extent, yes.  To an extent, this is also the man who gave the XO-1
the ability to take a 26x1slick to a 26x2 knobby and was helpful in
the reemergence of the 650b wheel to stick in all those 27" and 700c
frames.

Yes, the bikes will ride different.  No, it doesn't mean they will ride
badly.
Scott


On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 2:58 PM, Matthew J  wrote:

> > Run 700 narrow, 29'er wide, 650b, 26 by-anything.   All on the same
> frame and all without having to adjust anything
>
> Possible in theory but certainly not something a bike company such as Riv
> would want to do.
>
> Wheel diameter tire width has a significant impact on a bike's ride
> quality and handling.  There is no way a frame can be designed to work well
> with multiple wheel diameters.  A bike designed with a specific wheel size
> range in mind will work best with that wheel size range and design.
>
> GP would sooner not have the sale if it means a bike that does a lot but
> nothing well.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Appaloosa Prototype on Blug?

2014-03-12 Thread Scott Henry
What is nice about disk brakes is simply their versatility.   Build that
frame for disk brakes and you give the most go anywhere, do anything bike
on the road.   Run 700 narrow, 29'er wide, 650b, 26 by-anything.   All on
the same frame and all without having to adjust anything.

I see versatility as an inherently Rivish / Bobish ideal.   Old ways aren't
always the best ways and change isn't always bad.  The next custom anything
of mine will absolutely have disk mounts.
Right now leaning towards a Shamrock Cycles Fluid Druid.

Scott


On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 1:49 PM, RJM  wrote:

> I don't ever see Riv embracing disk brakes.
> On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 10:48:31 AM UTC-5, Clayton wrote:
>>
>>  I love Rivendell, but ick. I don't get it. I'd rather see a lugged, disc
>> brake equipped 29+ for bikepacking. With a high enough BB to run 29er 2.0s.
>> The ultimate touring bike, by Rivendell, as it should be. I'd have two
>> wheel sets, one super fat and one not so fat. Quick change with discs. I
>> will wait, patiently, for it is inevitable that Rivee will make such a
>> bike. ;)
>>
>> Clayton
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 8:29:31 PM UTC-7, Christopher Murray wrote:
>>>
>>> Check it out in all it's blue-ness!
>>>
>>> http://rivbike.tumblr.com
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>> Chris
>>>
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[RBW] Wtb: allrounder 56-58

2014-03-06 Thread Scott Shelton
Hello
I'm interested in an allrounder in a 57 or 58 cm 26" wheels and cantilever 
brakes. Frame and fork preferred 
Cheers
Scott

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Re: [RBW] Re: Yet more travel coffee questions!

2014-02-21 Thread Scott Henry
Manuel Acosta
 
wrote:

> I learned how to drink coffee black. Just like my soul...
> Then again I tend to pick roast that are fruity and/or sweet.
>
> My favorite photographer leads me to another path and question, what type
of beans do you all recommend?
Scott

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Re: [RBW] bike commute meals

2014-02-20 Thread Scott Henry
I like the 99cent sausage burrito from McDonald's with the hot salsa.  Its
not truly hot, but its better than nothing and I feel dorky bringing my own
salsa to workPaired with a Stanley thermos of coffee, it a great start.
Scott
Dayton, OH



On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 11:50 AM, allenmichael  wrote:

> My go-to is homemade muesli with lots of nuts,unsweetened dry cranberries,
> dry sour cherries, date pieces, and some oats. Each batch is a little
> different. Sometimes a little coconut or something else that looked good in
> the bulk bins. I put it in a container and pour a little maple syrup on it.
> When I get to work, I pour  hot water over the top, let it sit for about
> five minutes. I find it very satisfying.
>
> Michael Allen
>
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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for bike repair books?

2014-02-17 Thread Scott G.
I like Zinn and the Sturmey Archer 1956 shop manual.

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[RBW] Re: Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?

2014-02-14 Thread Scott G.
Anyone try the PDW metal fenders ?

https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/fenders/full-metal-fenders-city

Includes front and rear safety releases.
They have extra cut outs in the fenders for zip tie install.

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[RBW] Re: Any metal fenders have QR like longboards?

2014-02-11 Thread Scott G.
Berthouds use plastic clips for the stays that experience has shown
will move when the fender gets hit from the rear.

The Berthouds stay in alignment better than SKS chromoplastics.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for tandems?

2014-02-06 Thread Scott Henry
I have been trying not to buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Giordano-Viaggio-Tandem-White-Pearl/dp/B004Q3PE30/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1391696071&sr=1-3

But I know that for $500 to my door I will be getting one sooner or later.
Its cheap, I am sure I could up-spec it a bit with what I have in my garage
and I really want a better tandem.   I have an old Schwinn Twinn but have
been trying to get the lady to ride with me a bit more.

Scott
Dayton, OH



On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 7:02 PM, charlie.fowler wrote:

> My sister and I ride a 1976 Motobecane tandem we got a few years ago.
> Has bar end shifters, a TA triple and a frozen captain's seat post. Lucky
> seat height is right.
>
> It's pretty Granted out. Shellaced bar tape and twine, a Hobo bag hanging
> on stoker bar and a little joe bag flipped backwards on front bar and a
> burrito wrap behind the stoker.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/lgiobrtn7n7moqu/IMG_1258.JPG
>
>  Charlie fowler, who rides a 57cm romulus
> Hamilton ohio
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: SAN FRANCISCO Sunrise Coffee Club, Tuesday 1/28 7am @ Wave Organ

2014-01-30 Thread Scott Henry
Great pictures!   Thanks.

Jason, I might at least try to go out into my unheated garage this weekend
and take something for a spin.  Our streak of temperature below zero is
just about over.  Its going to be in the 20s today and some say over
freezing by Saturday.   For the past few weeks my winter cycling has been
buying parts online while sitting in my living room.

Scott


On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 1:26 PM, Jason Ferrier wrote:

> Nice to meet you Chris and Irving!
>
> Here's a time lapse of the morning.
> https://vimeo.com/85318907
>
> Scott - get out there!  I grew up in NE Ohio and if I were still there, I
> would ride over to Cuyahoga Valley and make coffee in the Valley in the
> snow to learn how much alcohol I need to boil 12oz of water in that
> temperature!
>
> Jason
>
> On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 10:02:52 AM UTC-8, Christopher Chen wrote:
>
>> Some of the best coffee rides are solo, by the way.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 7:12 AM, Scott Henry  wrote:
>>
>>> Really cool idea, hopefully someone will post pictures.   I don't think
>>> Dayton, Ohio has the ridership or the weather to have a coffee ride.   Its
>>> warmed up to a balmy -9 so far today.
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 1:24 AM, Christopher Chen wrote:
>>>
>>>> Okay, see some of you tomorrow. Maybe we'll do a ride afterwards. I'd
>>>> like to hit up Turtle Tower in Little Saigon for breakfast, especially if
>>>> Tommy doesn't show up.
>>>>
>>>> OH SNAP TOMMY
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jan 26, 2014 at 11:03 AM, Irving (boyzonthehoods.com) <
>>>> irvin...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I should be able to make it to this!
>>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

2014-01-29 Thread Scott Henry
Over the past few years I have purchased I think 4 bikes from Bikesdirect.
 One a S3X fixie, two cross bikes for my teens and one townie as a
just-have-around spare.   No problems at all, and while the frames are just
average, there isn't anything bad about them.  The parts spec are great for
the price.  My kids aluminum cross bikes were full alivio for less than
$400.   The S3X was $300 for a complete bike when i'm hard pressed to find
a whole wheelset in that pricerange.

I have nice bikes, but absolutely nothing wrong with anything from
Bikesdierct.com that I have ever seen.  They are my first recommendation to
anyone who ever asks me about cycling.


On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 10:48 AM, Montclair BobbyB <
montclairbob...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Motobecane (today at least) is a bargain brand sold through BikesDirect...
> (I'm sure the name is the only thing in common with the "old" French-built
> Motobecanes of the 70s/80s). And while I haven't yet heard anything really
> BAD about them, I suspect you do get what you pay for.  Considering a good
> set of fatbike wheels and tires alone may run you $700, this may be good
> for someone wanting to get introduced to the fatbike concept for relatively
> little $, but I suspect would ultimately require plenty of up-spec'ing to
> make the ride tolerable. (I hope I'm wrong, and we see lots of
> less-expensive fatbikes out there).
>
> And I completely agree with Patrick that the marketing claims are BS...  4
> inch tires (even mostly deflated) will provide some degree of "float", but
> not in deep powder... no way, Jose...
>
> Do be safe, Patrick... those are some extreme conditions you're facing.
>
> BB
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 2:05:28 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I'm not familiar with Motobecane, but wherever this marketing came from
>> I'm calling BS: "Float over three feet of soft powder snow" A toboggan with
>> a single person on it doesn't do that unless it is packed, and then it
>> doesn't matter how deep it is.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 28, 2014 11:00:25 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>>>
>>> The fat bikes don't have to be expensive.  I'm trying so very hard not
>>> to purchase one of these...
>>> http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/
>>> fantom-fat-bikes_fb4comp_xiv.htm
>>> only $695 shipped
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:18 AM, Ryan  wrote:
>>>
 And here's another site with links for winter cycling including
 maintenance:

 http://greenactioncentre.ca/2012/cycling-through-winter/

 In Winnipeg, a lot of the couriers go fixed or  single-speed, but we're
 pretty flat in Winnipeg so the less is more philosophy works well here;
 obviously this doesn't apply to your situation.

 Those fat bikes seem like they'd be great for bikepacking, but they
 sure aren't  inexpensive, and I realize you want to use your Hunqapillar. I
 suspect some snowshoes that you could pack would be useful, too if the
 snow's deep, because I suspect you'll have to hike a lot of sections.

 Regards

 On Monday, January 27, 2014 8:21:38 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:

> Thanks, Jim. Yes, it is quite a temperature range -- bigger than
> summer's range. Yesterday, we reached 45 here, and this morning was -5˚F,
> so that is a 50 degree swing in 18 hours. I've ridden my bike for short
> rides down to -15˚F. So I'm reasonably comfortable that my setup is OK as
> is. I didn't see anything super glaring in the list you provided.
>
> Yes, miles of deep snow will be an adventure. I'm curious to see how
> that goes. With my vertigo, I can't carry any weight above my waist, so my
> wheeled pack-mammoth is my beast of burden. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Monday, January 27, 2014 6:01:01 PM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote:
>>
>>
>> Sorry, forgot the link: http://www.allweathersports.co
>> m/isport/ibiketips.html
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Bikepacking tips?

2014-01-28 Thread Scott Henry
The fat bikes don't have to be expensive.  I'm trying so very hard not to
purchase one of these...
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fat-bikes/fantom-fat-bikes_fb4comp_xiv.htm
only $695 shipped




On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 11:18 AM, Ryan  wrote:

> And here's another site with links for winter cycling including
> maintenance:
>
> http://greenactioncentre.ca/2012/cycling-through-winter/
>
> In Winnipeg, a lot of the couriers go fixed or  single-speed, but we're
> pretty flat in Winnipeg so the less is more philosophy works well here;
> obviously this doesn't apply to your situation.
>
> Those fat bikes seem like they'd be great for bikepacking, but they sure
> aren't  inexpensive, and I realize you want to use your Hunqapillar. I
> suspect some snowshoes that you could pack would be useful, too if the
> snow's deep, because I suspect you'll have to hike a lot of sections.
>
> Regards
>
> On Monday, January 27, 2014 8:21:38 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Jim. Yes, it is quite a temperature range -- bigger than summer's
>> range. Yesterday, we reached 45 here, and this morning was -5˚F, so that is
>> a 50 degree swing in 18 hours. I've ridden my bike for short rides down to
>> -15˚F. So I'm reasonably comfortable that my setup is OK as is. I didn't
>> see anything super glaring in the list you provided.
>>
>> Yes, miles of deep snow will be an adventure. I'm curious to see how that
>> goes. With my vertigo, I can't carry any weight above my waist, so my
>> wheeled pack-mammoth is my beast of burden. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Monday, January 27, 2014 6:01:01 PM UTC-7, Jim M. wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Sorry, forgot the link: http://www.allweathersports.
>>> com/isport/ibiketips.html
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: SAN FRANCISCO Sunrise Coffee Club, Tuesday 1/28 7am @ Wave Organ

2014-01-28 Thread Scott Henry
Really cool idea, hopefully someone will post pictures.   I don't think
Dayton, Ohio has the ridership or the weather to have a coffee ride.   Its
warmed up to a balmy -9 so far today.

Scott


On Tue, Jan 28, 2014 at 1:24 AM, Christopher Chen  wrote:

> Okay, see some of you tomorrow. Maybe we'll do a ride afterwards. I'd like
> to hit up Turtle Tower in Little Saigon for breakfast, especially if Tommy
> doesn't show up.
>
> OH SNAP TOMMY
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 26, 2014 at 11:03 AM, Irving (boyzonthehoods.com) <
> irvingp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I should be able to make it to this!
>>
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>
>
>
> --
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>
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Re: [RBW] Sackville Medium Saddle Bag: Do They come in Black?

2014-01-13 Thread Scott Henry
Or a Hobo, CandyBar or Banana bag in any color you want...

www.duluthpack.com/outdoor-gear/biking




On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 3:32 PM, Peter Morgano wrote:

> Black bags you say?
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Carradice-vintage-bicycle-bike-bags-collection-/171216358551?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dd4a4c97
> On Jan 12, 2014 9:40 PM, "Hugh Smitham"  wrote:
>
>> Err sorry...Tom already answered this question.
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
>> "Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
>> moving." -- Albert Einstein
>>
>> http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 6:31 PM, Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>>> Brian,
>>>
>>> Came across this image Tom Allinghams black Bombadil with black
>>> Sackville.
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37542512@N04/11252475855/in/set-72157639619480186/
>>>
>>> So the answer is that they did...now the question is whether they will
>>> again. I'd give a call to Riv HQ if you haven't already.
>>>
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> "Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
>>> moving." -- Albert Einstein
>>>
>>> http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 5:42 AM, Eric Platt wrote:
>>>
 Seem to remember they were first black.  But as Thomas mentioned, there
 were issues with the fabric.  I have a small and a medium and while both
 are black, they are different shades of black.

  The black ones have the number plates attached if I remember correctly.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


 On Sun, Jan 12, 2014 at 1:19 AM, hsmitham wrote:

>  Tim,
>
> I have a Carridice saddle bag and an Acorn rando bag and IMO I don't
> think the Acorn is a higher quality than the Carridice. I'm very impressed
> with my Carridice. And I'm not denigrating the Acorn quality it's also
> quite good. I do agree that the Carridice Black with white straps doesn't
> look *as* good as the Acorn in black with honey strap though If I
> wanted a large black saddle bag I'd choose the Camper long flap in a heart
> beat. Again just my two cents FWIW.
>
> ~Hugh
>
>
> On Saturday, January 11, 2014 12:13:10 PM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
>> I've never heard of any plans to do black.  Green, tan, and tweed are
>> the only colors I've seen.
>>
>> I bought an Acorn Large Saddlebag in black (from a listmember), and
>> it's really nice.  Its design is more like a Carradice than the Sackville
>> "trunk" design, but with "honey" colored leather vice Carradice's white
>> leather on its black bags. The Acorn is built with much higher quality 
>> than
>> a Carradice and is MUSA.
>> However, Acorn's "large" is still only 6 liters.  Nowhere near the
>> Sackville Medium's 18 liters.
>>
>> Tim Gavin
>> Cedar Rapids, IA
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 11, 2014 at 12:34 PM, Brian Campbell > > wrote:
>>
>>>  I saw the website offerings and was wondering if they were or will
>>> be available in black?
>>>
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] Taller 26" Riders

2014-01-03 Thread Scott Loveless
6' tall, 87cm PBH.  Most of my miles over the last few years have been
on either an '87 MB-2 or '90 High Plains.  These aren't my favorite
bikes, but they're very versatile and seem to do nearly everything
well enough.  I've used them for commuting, S24O, grocery-getting,
mountain biking, rail trail riding and even a couple metric centuries.
 I keep several pairs of tires on hand for them, including 26x1.75
Paselas, some skinnier Bontragers with kevlar belts, knobbies and
studded winter tires.

But my most favorite bike ever, which I stupidly sold, was a 650B rSogn.

On Fri, Jan 3, 2014 at 2:22 PM, Tony DeFilippo  wrote:
> Between the 650B discussion, the 1 bike thread and my recent toying with a
> 26" XO-3 I was wondering if there are any taller ~6'/90pbh-ish folks out
> there predominantly riding 26" wheels these days...  If it wasn't clear
> already the fact that my 3 current bikes represent each of the 26"-650B-700C
> wheel sizes has me bouncing all over on the topic!  Good news is that now
> that all three are in good rideable shape I can sample them all ad nasuem
> and come to my own conclusions too!
>
> Tony
>
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-- 
Scott Loveless
Camp Hill, PA  USA
http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/
__o
  _'\<,_
 (*)/  (*)

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[RBW] Re: Double top tubes: secret racers' edge!

2013-12-31 Thread Scott G.
Actually the photo is from the secret Rapha/Rivendell co-marketing plan.


Proof: 
>
> [image: Inline image 2]
>
>
>
>  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dancing Around the Lugged Steel Maypole

2013-12-18 Thread Scott Henry
I think what SRAM did was simply a mistake.They now will live up to
their warranty the way a decent company should.

The Oring failures, if that's what the problem was, are a simple fix.  SRAM
makes a lot of things, Orings aren't one of them.  If they got some that
weren't up to spec, expect them to be suing one of their suppliers.   I
have yet to replace the hydraulic Orings in my 13 year old truck, my 17
year old car or my 10 year old motorcycle.  I also have a set of Magura
hydraulic rim brakes from the mid-nineties that are still going strong.

Good Orings last.  Until you start screwing with them.  As long as they
were up to par to begin with.


Not sure of where the hippieness and braiding and not shaving comes from,
but please ladies, keep it smooth.



Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 2:33 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Fair enough.  I made the mistake thinking that you were responding
> directly to the quote you quoted.  A guy makes a comment about "rushing to
> market" and then you say "didn't NASA have a similar problem".  I thought
> you were accusing NASA of rushing to market.  You've clarified it for me.
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:40:44 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>  On 12/18/2013 01:38 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>  Richard Feynman has not written up his report on the SRAM issue.
>> Also, thusfar, the SRAM issue has vaporized zero brave American Astronauts,
>> so I would call those two problems "not similar"
>>
>>
>> Consequences are "not similar" but "O ring fails in cold weather"
>> certainly does sound "similar" to me...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:28:08 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>>
>>> On 12/18/2013 01:10 PM, oldmangabe wrote:
>>> >
>>> > The crux of this particular problem is that SRAM seems to have rushed
>>> > it's product to market in order to compete with Shimano and meet
>>> > market expectations. In doing so SRAM seems to have neglected to do
>>> > enough R&D on the redesign of the "road" versions of their hydro
>>> > calipers.  It always baffles me that companies would rather deal with
>>> > warranties and recalls rather than make sure the products were
>>> > correctly designed and speced, even if it means they come to market a
>>> > bit later than the competitors.
>>>
>>> Didn't NASA have a similar problem with O-rings with the Space Shuttle?
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Racing Sucks

2013-12-11 Thread Scott G.


On Wednesday, December 11, 2013 9:32:39 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> If we are going to be collectivists, I want your Atlantis.
>
> Patrick Moore
>

The International Wheelman of the World ?

Wobblie Bicyclists, it does make a certain sense.


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Re: [RBW] Crazy-priced Riv water bottles on ebay

2013-12-06 Thread Scott Henry
I don't know what really wrong with the bullmoose listing.   Maybe a word
in the title that you aren't happy with (Rivendell) but I would say that
its fair to use it because if you want the current version / price of the
bars, that's where you are going to get them.

I think the description is pretty much spot on:
"The rare Nitto Bullmoose handlebar. Reproduced now by Rivendell. These
bars are in near new condition. CrMo construction with a 22.2mm (1") stem
diameter. Includes cable tensioner. Bars are original (uncut)."

They are listed at a $150 buy it now price which might be a tad high, but
that's what eBay is about.  I would have figured closer to a $100.  That's
why the seller has a "make offer" option listed.  I think that sometimes we
forget that people don't list things on eBay so that the masses can
experience the joys of cycling.  They list on eBay to make money.  Period.

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Thu, Dec 5, 2013 at 9:38 PM, Montclair BobbyB
wrote:

> OK here's another one, only this dope is really stooping to new lows...
>  first, by asking an outrageous price for a set of 80s bullmoose bars, but
> then using "Vintage Rivendell" in the title AND comparing these to the Riv
> Bullmoose bars...  Not only breaking eBay rules, but demonstrating he has
> absolutely no shame whatsoever... TOOL-meter registering a 10 !!!
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitto-Bullmoose-Handlebar-MTB-Vintage-Rivendell-/321267648890?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 5, 2013 9:32:59 AM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>>
>> Caveat emptor...
>>
>> *Once again proving PT Barnum's Corollary... "There are also plenty o'
>> scheisters out there..."*
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, December 5, 2013 9:04:23 AM UTC-5, Tim McNamara wrote:
>>>
>>> On Dec 5, 2013, at 3:51 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
>>> thil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > I often wondered about the business model of selling grossly
>>> overpriced items on eBay. Must be that suckers come along often enough to
>>> make it worth the time and cost.
>>>
>>>
>>> I always enjoy the auctions in which an item currently available in
>>> stores goes to the "winner" for 25% above current retail prices.  D'oh!
>>>  Shop victoriously!
>>
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Re: [RBW] Holy Moly. 30 minute Drone Delivery from Amazon. Need a bike part "real soon"?

2013-12-02 Thread Scott Henry
It seems that I am in the minority here, again.  I think this is amazing
combination of efficiency, technology and progress.   I would guess that it
will be a long time before this is offered as part of Amazon's amazing free
shipping program, until then, if you don't like the idea of it, don't
spring for it.

Waiting a few days might be fine for some people.  Others, myself included,
can't stand it.  My kid just subscribed to a magazine, he is having a hard
time waiting the 6-8 weeks for processing and delivery.  He wanted to know
why it takes so long to get started and I have no clue.  Its no different
than we just went thru on this list a few weeks ago with the catalog
mailing.  No one likes to wait, once you decide you want it, you want it as
fast as possible.

Realistically though, this will be a cost per usage issue.  I usually just
shop for price, which means Amazon and the free shipping option, but I have
been known to spring for two-day or next day shipping if its not too
crazily priced.   Remember that progress is always cheap but it isn't
always bad either.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Sun, Dec 1, 2013 at 9:22 PM, Tom Virgil  wrote:

> My dog is not going to like the 
> octocopter.<http://www.cbs.com/shows/60_minutes/video/jsew__gnI4_Lh_p4_Md6m1tw5mumYDuV/60-minutes-overtime-12-01-13/?nm>
>
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[RBW] Re: Interloc Racing Design Defiant 50-34t Compact Road Double Crank

2013-12-01 Thread Scott G.
They are Andel cranks.

http://www.andel.com.tw/products/products_show.php?language=_eng&pid=40&cid=18#


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[RBW] Re: Rivendell "SimpleBeam" - New Model - Call for the Seriously Interested

2013-11-26 Thread Scott G.
How about Campagnolo Cambio Corsa drop outs for the SimpleBeam ?

A Silver Cambio Corsa mech would be be fun.
The Paris--Roubaix mech is probably too complex to reproduce.

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[RBW] Re: Cable Management (or) More Twine

2013-11-19 Thread Scott G.
Before zip ties, Telco folk used  waxed lacing cord for cable management.
MaBell approved, and it doesn't leave sharp ends.

https://www.sourcetelsupply.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=32

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Re: [RBW] Re: Soma Grand Randonnee, from a Rivendell perspective

2013-11-13 Thread Scott Henry
And this conversation is why I enjoy the Riv List in the Winter months.
Lots of talk.  Lots of opinions.   Here's mine :

We talk and talk and talk about fit and sizing.   When it comes down to it,
if you aren't 100% sure on the fit, don't buy it online.  I make many
purchases online, but almost never shoes or pants.  Those are things where
fit matters to me.   Someday Soma might either build more or distribute
them better and there might be one at a shop near you.  Sit on it and see.

Realistically though, expecting a small company to make a stock frame to
fit short or tall people at the two extremes really isn't going to happen.
 Like it or not, the world is built around the 5' 9" unisex humanoid.   At
6foot and 210# I can shop for clothing at WalMart and bikes from just about
anyone.  If I was 6' 9" and 350#, I'd be heading to the big and tall shop
and riding a custom or tall specific frame from a company like Rivendell.

Seriously, how many companies stop at a 60-63cm frame.  Be happy with a 65.

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 8:06 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> There are names for both of these measurements and their position in space
> is not ambiguous.  You don't need to rotate photographs or draw lines on
> anything.  You do need to look at the numbers and trust that Boulder is
> publishing accurate numbers.  I do trust them, but it never hurts to
> doublecheck with them.
>
> Referenced from the center of the BB, the tippy top of the seat tube
> extension on a 65cm Soma Grand Randonneur is simply 650mm x sin(72.5
> degrees) = 620mm vertically higher than the BB.  The tippy top of the
> headtube of a 65cm Soma Grand Randonneur is defined as the "Frame Stack",
> and is published as 637mm.  So the top of the head tube is 17mm higher than
> the top of the seat tube extension.  It's not level, and it's not lower in
> front like a track bike, it's a little bit higher in front.  17mm.
>
> But nobody really cares where the frame ends.  Jim wants to know if he can
> get the bars level.  For a rider like Jim with a PBH of 99 who maybe has a
> SH of 89, that would mean the saddle top will be hovering nearly 850mm
> vertically above the BB plane.  That's no problem with a longish seatpost.
>  In order to get the tops of Jim's handlebars equally high, his handlebar
> stack would need to be ~213mm higher than the frame stack.  Estimate that
> you get about 30mm from the headset and steertube stack, meaning Jim would
> need a stem that gets him about 180mm of vertical above the min insertion
> line.  I don't know where the min insertion line is on a 225mm Nitto, but I
> doubt that will get your bars to level.  A dirt drop would almost certainly
> get you there, it has like 200mm of vertical above the min insertion line,
> but not much reach.
>
> The thing to ask Boulder is how much extra steertube there is on the fork.
>  If there's a lot of extra steertube, allowing you to run a big old stack
> of spacers, then maybe your 225mm Nitto at max height might get you up
> there.
>
> For comparison, that 64cm Hillborne would have substantially more frame
> stack.  By my calculation, the top of the headtube on a 64cm Hillborne will
> be (ballpark) 50mm higher than it is on the 65cm Soma.  That's 50mm of
> elevation you don't need to get from your stem.
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 4:09:20 PM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:
>>
>> Guys,
>>
>> Sorry to stick my oar in but it seems to me that the question is how the
>> seat tube (frame size) is measured.
>>
>> If it's measured all the way to the top of the seat tube where the
>> seatpost clamp is, then the HT extension will be (roughly!!!) cancelled out
>> by the seat tube extension, and the bike will fit (roughly) like it's got a
>> level top tube.
>>
>> On the other hand if it's measured only to where the top tube joins the
>> seat tube, then the head tube extension will add some handlebar height with
>> respect to the stated frame size (i.e. it will fit like it had a slightly
>> up-sloping top tube).
>>
>> Right?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: OT (totally): really? you can do THAT on a racing bike?

2013-11-12 Thread Scott Henry
I wouldn't think those tires are 23mm, but they look like a 28mm, certainly
not much larger, those are some wide rims though.

I really liked the Wheel of Death clip, someday I want to try that.

Really though the clip (and many others like it) are showcasing the skills
of the rider and not the bike.  He could have done those stunts on any
bike.  The carbon part is really an afterthought, I'm more impressed in
that the bike has a high center of gravity and full size wheels unlike a
real trials bike.



Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 1:00 PM, cyclotourist wrote:

> At the 2:18 mark it looks like he has some decent sized tires on there.
> Not 23mm!!!
>
> Anybody know the link to that guy that was doing trials on an old beat up
> mixte? I was looking for that but can't find it. That is a great one as
> well.
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:13 AM, Shoji Takahashi <
> shoji.takaha...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> crazy bike-handling skills!
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 2:10:14 AM UTC-5, hsmitham wrote:
>>>
>>> I feel exhausted! If I was looking to purchase a used Carbon Pinarello I
>>> certainly would not want his :-)
>>>
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> On Monday, November 11, 2013 8:26:08 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:
>>>>
>>>> My mild mannered math teacher daughter sent this link to me:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0&sns=em
>>>>
>>>> Even non-steel bikes can take a bit of abuse.  Really a fun watch.
>>>> Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> dougP
>>>>
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[RBW] Re: Frame Pump, to strap or not to strap

2013-11-07 Thread Scott G.
The strap isn't to keep the pump from falling off, it keeps it from 
rattling.
The rattling can be the sound of the raised edge of the pump handle 
hitting the bottom to the TT, which then rusts, then the TT fails.

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Re: [RBW] Nitto threadless stems?

2013-11-05 Thread Scott Henry
I don't know what "look" you are really going for, but I just got an email
earlier today from Handsome Cycles.   They have a $40 silver stem.

A great company and very easy to deal with.

https://handsomecycles.com/product/handsome-1-1-8-alloy-stem?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Handsome+Parts+and+Accessories+--+Brand+New+Line&utm_content=Handsome+Parts+and+Accessories+--+Brand+New+Line+CID_de6dff63228ad21d2c250fde43d90f6e&utm_source=Ipsity%20Email%20Marketing%20Software



Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Nov 5, 2013 at 3:40 PM, jinxed  wrote:

> Sometimes mixing the classic aesthetic with the new "standards" can
> be...challenging.
>
> In what I thought would be a simple task of choosing from several stems
> from my parts bin, I turned up empty handed and in disbelief. I really
> don't have a threadless 1 1/8" 26.0 clamp stem?!? How can this be? No
> matter, I'll run by the bike shop and grab one, there must be a box full of
> take offs. NOPE. Not one. Really? Really.
>
> So after a bunch of fruitless hunting, I've resigned to the fact I'll need
> to find and order something. There seems to be plenty of generic offerings
> from Dimension, Origin8, etc on the bay but if I have to source it
> non-locally then I'd rather go with something more fitting of the bike and
> from a known manufacturer. And the kicker is to find one in silver. For
> consideration, I'd like to use my nitto noodle for this along with a pretty
> Rivish build.
>
> My original thought was finding an old Thomson to keep it US made but
> although cool, they have a decidedly industrial vibe. Especially the older
> 26.0 clamp versions. Still they DO pop up in silver from time to time which
> would be nice. As far as other accessible offerings I did check into the
> Nittos and they look pretty nice as would be expected. It seems there is
> one version that is nearly a gun metal color as opposed to silver which
> looks great, although I cant seem to find the 100 length in any of them.
>
> So my quandary becomes...is the Nitto worth scrounging for to match the
> bar? Anyone handle it "in the metal"? Or do I go clunky USA Thomson if I
> can find one? Or do I throw it all out the window and use a black 31.8 bar
> stem combo I have hanging in the garage?
>
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Re: [RBW] Wooden Fenders for Atlantis - photos / suggestions

2013-10-16 Thread Scott Henry
Here is a shot of some homemade wooden fenders on my Kogswell P.  They
aren't on the bike anymore, but lasted year round for about 4-5 years
before I took them off.

http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2005/cc010-scotthenry0605.html

Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Sat, Oct 12, 2013 at 10:25 PM, WETH  wrote:

> Having donated the plastic Planet Bike fenders from my Atlantis to my
> wife's new orange Surly LHT, I am searching for a new set.  In reviewing
> the many fender options, I have become intrigued by bamboo and wooden
> fenders.
> If you have wooden fenders on any type of bike do you like them? Why or
> why not? What kind/who made them?
> If you have wooden fenders on an Atlantis, do you have photos?
> A google search only returned three Atlanti with wooden fenders (to my
> hurried/tired eyes):
> Michael and Mel's at cyclofiend.com
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc184-michaelwolfe1006.html
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc519-jamesjohnson0908.html
> And PlainWrapPedaler at Flickr:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46241869@N08/7523876266/
> Any others out there?  I am curious about how they hold up compared to
> plastic and metal as well as how fenders of different types of wood  look
> on an Atlantis.
> So far, I have discovered Woodys Fenders (
> http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/) and Sykes (
> http://www.sykeswoodfenders.com/sykeswoodfenders/home.html).  Are there
> other manufacturers?
> Many thanks,
> Erl
>
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[RBW] Re: Campy Only!: Ultramarathon Cycling's Demographic Problem

2013-10-06 Thread Scott G.
 I talk to people new to the club riding a lot.
Number #1 reason people don't cycle is they're scared of riding on the road.
Number #2 reason, which probably applies to Ultra events is cycling takes 
too
much time, people would rather run.

Getting 4 hours away is tough, when you are expected to answer work 
questions
24 hours a day on your smart leash.
So cross will take over the universe, 70 minutes in the coffin and you are 
done.

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[RBW] Re: BQ on Mark's rack

2013-10-03 Thread Scott G.


On Wednesday, October 2, 2013 10:42:27 PM UTC-4, RJM wrote:
>
> I don't get the love of disk brakes on road bikes going onI just 
> really don't.
>

You probably aren't riding carbon fiber clincher rims down Tuna Canyon,
braking way too much. California Gran Fondue rides have banned CFCs
for this reason.


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[RBW] Re: Now this is some serious "kit"

2013-09-20 Thread Scott G.
I think that pic is from Rapha @ Interbike this year.

Note to Riv, I really want a good handle bar double bottle cage.

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[RBW] Re: Low Normal Derailers

2013-09-12 Thread Scott G.
I have a Cyclo-Benelux Tourist derailer on my '54 Claud Butler,
it works pretty good. The shifter has a friction damper wheel
so you can adjust on the the fly. The horizontal spring derailers
were all low normal. Simplex TdF, Cyclo-Benlux Mk7, Tourist etc.

http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/cyclobenelux.html

Scott G.

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Re: [RBW] Low Normal Derailers

2013-09-11 Thread Scott Henry
Not sure exactly what you are asking, but I've used them.   I have one on
my folding bike.  They work, but having just one set up that way makes it
awkward, for me at least.

It really is just all in what you get used to.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 5:51 PM, Larry H  wrote:

> Are there any list members who are using or have in the past used low
> normal derailers.  For the uninitiated, these are derailers with a spring
> that pulls the cage toward the largest cassette gear rather than the
> smallest.  It appears that Shimano has discontinued all of their low normal
> derailers, but old stock is still available from various retailers.
>
> The nice thing would be that moving both Silver Shifters in the same
> direction would downshift, making it easier to pedal on climbs.  Also, if
> your cable breaks, down you go to first gear rather than ninth (or
> eighteenth or whatever).
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk about the rules

2013-09-06 Thread Scott Henry
The only one that matters is Rule #5.  Next time I'm in the shop getting
some tattoo work done, I'm seriously considering adding it.
Long live the Velominati


Scott


Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Fri, Sep 6, 2013 at 10:01 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> In our house we only have one rule and everyone is responsible for
> following it and helping others follow it. "Uphold Right Relationship."
> Seems to me it works for everything.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] wtb: dynamo headlights

2013-09-03 Thread Scott Calhoun
Hi all,

I'm thinking that some of you will be upgrading to the new Busch & Miller 
Luxos lights and therefore will have "extra" dynamo lights sitting around. 
I have two wheels built up with 3w dynamo hubs, but I don't have any lights 
yet. 

I'd be interested in any of the following and I'd be willing to pay $45- 
100, depending on the model, condition, etc. 

Busch & Miller Lumotec IQ Cyo R lights
Schmidt e6
Schmidt Edelux
Supernova E3

Best,
Scott Calhoun

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Re: [RBW] Re: back problems

2013-08-28 Thread Scott Henry
I guess I have have a question about "floor living" in general.  As this is
the first I've ever really heard of it.   I have one on those big yoga
balls that I sit on sometimes instead of a chair and stretch on it
sometimes too.

A little background, my back hurts a lot, neck and knees too.  Being a
firefighter its always just been par for the course and I haven't put much
thought into it other than a few pills now and again.

If I wanted to give this a go, what might be a good place to start...
Floor sitting?
Floor sleeping?
Something else?

I can't say i'm sold, but I'm intrigued?
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 10:41 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> I know I've mentioned this before, but sitting on the floor without chairs
> or back rest (like you're out in the woods) works your core all the time,
> so you don't have to do core exercises. Takes a few months to get
> proficient at it, and it inherently means shifting positions every 20-40
> minutes or so, but cushioned furniture is as bad for us as cushioned
> supportive shoes.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2013 8:24:04 PM UTC-6, Don Compton wrote:
>>
>> It was a revelation to meet Grant P. and talk to him about fit, bikes,
>> and just riding in general. That was 8 years ago. Well, after sliding away
>> from the gym( just lazy and nothing to do  with Grant) and all my core
>> workouts, I am really paying the price. My back cannot hack any significant
>> effort on the bike, even on my Riv. I am finally back to the gym working on
>> my core, balance, and flexibility.
>> Bottom line, at 61 I can't take this stuff for granted( pun not intended).
>> Don C.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: How much do you carry on your S24O?

2013-08-21 Thread Scott Henry
You list seems reasonable to me.  Like was said, I'm not much of a bag
liner or footprint sort of guy,  I could usually forget the sleeping bag as
mostly I just end up laying on top of it.  I could maybe lose the bucket
too.

Other than that, and this has been driven home for me camping with my kids
in scouts.  My list for "comfortable" camping isn't much different for one
night or multiple nights (outside of food).   Its very easy to to a S24O
bringing next to nothing, keeping it all in a single transverse saddle bag
or a front basket.  I can do that and have done that, it just isn't quite
the same for me.  Though realistically, I can fit my kit in two front
panniers and a smaller saddlebag.

Never weighed it though.

Dont worry about it, just have fun.
Scott



Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 8:06 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Hey Tom, you are definitely in the ballpark and can hone from there. I
> don't carry a sleeping bag liner or tent footprint and depending on the
> S24O don't bring a stove or food, but otherwise my list looks similar to
> yours. One of the beauties of an S24O is you really can't go wrong by
> bringing too little or too much. It's not like you have a week or even a
> few nights to live with any mistakes, so it is very conducive to
> experimenting. So much depends on where you are camping. I no doubt bring
> more clothes for the Colorado Rockies at the height of Summer than many in
> CA for Spring or Fall. Why? Because snow is always possible, rain/hail
> likely and temps will range from highs in the 80's to lows in the 30's in
> July/August. Plus the weather folk have no idea what it's going to do, so
> best to be prepared for whatever. FOr Spring and Fall, I add my Filson's
> wool Mackinaw and/or a heavy down vest. Sure, there are trips I don't wear
> everything, but why take the risk?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 21, 2013 12:09:21 AM UTC-6, Tom Virgil wrote:
>>
>> I am not interested in fern elves who sleep under leaves or those who can
>> build a house at the campsite from available materials
>>
>> What is a nominal weight?
>>
>> With everything I could want, I am coming in at +22 pounds.  I am trying
>> to pare that away.  If I were to take everything, it would include,,,
>>
>>   Sleeping bag
>>
>>  Sleeping bag liner
>>
>>  Compression Sack
>>
>>  Pillow
>>
>>  Pad
>>
>>  Tent
>>
>>  Tent Footprint
>>
>>  French Press
>>
>>  Titanium cup
>>
>>  Stove
>>
>>  Fuel bottle
>>
>>  Cooking pot
>>
>>  Utensils
>>
>>  bucket
>>
>>  camp suds
>>
>>  towel
>>
>>  sacks
>>
>>  egg holder
>>
>>  bottles
>>
>>
>> and a few other things for breakfast, camp clothes.
>>
>> Having accumulated all of this from backpacking, I am now figuring out
>> where to pare down.
>>
>> I have been practicing with Sam and the weight.
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Drag in non-direct gears on SA AW: noticeable?

2013-08-18 Thread Scott G.
Bin the AW idea, try a clubmans hub, the AM, you can get a reconditioned 
one here.
Will fit inside a AW shell iirc, check with oldbike trader.

I have purchased lots of refit bits from him, good service.


http://oldbiketrader.co.uk/display_Sturmey_Archer.php?options=internalhubparts

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Re: [RBW] Re: Opniel knives

2013-08-15 Thread Scott Henry
Anything by Spyderco will serve you well.   Though I am partial to the M-16
series from Columbia River Knife and Tool.

www.spyderco.com
www.crkt.com

mine:
http://www.crkt.com/M16-01-EDC-GlassFilledNylonHandle-AutoLAWKS-Razor-Sharp-Edge

I've had a daily carry knife (among other things) for more than 20 years.
 Just about any brand will work, but those two brands have served me well
for a long time, at work, on the bike and at home.

Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 2:14 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Ideally, I would have a miniature knife for each saddlebag -- useful for
> cutting the tips off of 2 oz bottles of Stan's and holding raging squirrels
> at bay.
>
> I see that there is an entirely new world of expensive knives lying in
> wait for me!
>
> Oh, and I must share this clip, posted on BSNYC blog today:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01NHcTM5IA4&feature=youtu.be
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 11:54 AM, Matt Beebe wrote:
>
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 14, 2013 5:25:00 PM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>>>
>>> Patrick, the most useful knife I've ever handled (own 3 permanently
>>> clipped in bags) is the Spyderco Native
>>>
>>>
>> I have a small spyderco (don't remember what the model is called) that
>> I've carried in my jeans watch pocket for I don't know how long.It's
>> stainless 'VG-10' steel, but sharpens easily and holds an edge well.
>> What I really like about it is the hole on the blade that allows you to
>> open with one hand-  more often than not I am holding the thing I want to
>> use the knife on in my other hand.
>>
>> Matt
>>
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Re: [RBW] WTB: VO or other decaleur

2013-07-17 Thread Scott Henry
This is an old bike of mine, long since sold, but I made a little 'foot' to
kick the basket out a tad.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/skenry/sets/72157632140759468/

It was made with a p-clamp and a length of aluminum iron.  Took about 3
minutes to build and worked out well.   The Duct tape was an option.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Wed, Jul 17, 2013 at 3:38 PM, cyclotourist wrote:

> Looking for a budget option to try a bike-basket hack on my wife's
> Glorius. Figured the VO decaleur would be a good place to start
>
>
> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/decaleurs/vo-decaleur-kits.html
>
> Does anyone have a used one collecting dust they want to sell? I need
> both pieces.
>
> Open to other suggestions for mounting the basket as well. It's a
> Peterboro basket, hanging by leather straps. You can see in this pic
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/64942209@N00/8446879114 that it hangs
> down too low and rubs against the brake cable/hanger. Thinking the
> decaleur would push it out and lower. Again, open to other options
> that would work. Permanently attachment is not a problem.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
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[RBW] Re: Synergy rims

2013-07-12 Thread Scott G.
I cracked a Synergy 700OCR in 2008, wheel was built in 2006 IIRC.
Rebuilt wheel with another Synergy OCR  2008, wheel has been fine since.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rocket fuel

2013-07-10 Thread Scott Henry
This is all I think of when hearing Rocket Fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JpwjnMFlJI


Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 11:55 AM, tarik saleh  wrote:

> Norman,
>
> Excellent!
>
> Also Egypt:
> http://tsaleh.blogspot.com/2009/09/propane-and-nile.html
>
> and China:
>
> http://tsaleh.blogspot.com/2006/02/day-three-chinese-bikes-propane-hauler.html
>
> Later
>
> Tarik
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 8:31 AM, Norman R  wrote:
>
>> Here's how the pros do it:
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/norro/5379339357/in/set-72157625884949426
>>  and
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/norro/5379944932/in/set-72157625884949426
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 3:05:03 PM UTC-4, bwphoto wrote:
>>>
>>> Over the weekend we ran out of propane for the grill and we had an extra
>>> empty canister that needed to go back ...a fitting job for super bike. I
>>> get our propane from the local hardware store which is a measly 3 miles
>>> away and I don't drive for short trips and seldom drive for much else, if
>>> the destination and route is bike friendly I ride whatever bike fits the
>>> task. Hardware store runs usually require the Xtracycle and more often than
>>> not require wide loaders. Instead of loading both sides of the X with
>>> empties I hitched up the trailer. Since I built the X the trailer has been
>>> sitting idle so I wanted to see how it worked with the X.
>>>
>>> Other than getting a few entertaining looks and a little kid telling his
>>> mom he wanted one pulling the trailer was pretty uneventful, I did notice
>>> the absence of the second tank on the return trip. I have to say having a
>>> cargo bike is really convenient and with 2" Big Apples it is my errand bike
>>> of choice.
>>>
>>> Here's a link to see the set up: http://www.flickr.com/photos/**
>>> billweaverphoto/9247791331/in/**set-72157634563525565/<http://www.flickr.com/photos/billweaverphoto/9247791331/in/set-72157634563525565/>
>>>
>>> I keep thinking of the possibility of a Riv long tail...
>>>
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>
>
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> --
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> tas at tariksaleh dot com
> in los alamos, po box 208, 87544
> http://tariksaleh.com
> all sorts of bikes blog: http://tsaleh.blogspot.com
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Re: [RBW] Getting a Bike on a Plane

2013-07-09 Thread Scott Henry
Its also going to depend on what else you check as luggage.  Just put it on
the counter and don't say a word.   I've never been asked, its just my
suitcase, the same as the person in line in front of me.   I travel light
though, so its just usually the suit'bike'case and a small carry on.

Good luck
Scott


Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 11:20 AM, Eric Norris  wrote:

> I'll be flying on Friday with my folding bike, and I wonder if anyone has
> tips for dealing with the clerk at the airline counter. My bike (a folding
> Dahon) fits into a case the size of a large suitcase--if it's measured,
> it's a few inches too large and qualifies for the "large" surcharge. That,
> plus the fact that there's a bike inside, sometimes results in a $50 charge
> on my airline (Southwest).
>
> Any ideas on how to get this thing on the plane without causing the ticket
> agent to haul out the tape measure?
>
> If I'm asked what's inside, what should I say (it has been suggested that
> I answer, "sporting goods," or "a mobility device" ... even "an inline
> wheelchair")? Anyone who flies knows that a "bike" incurs a cost, the same
> bag filled with golf clubs or lacrosse equipment wouldn't.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: I'm not sure I get the connection between bikes and hatchets...

2013-07-02 Thread Scott Henry
I know its expensive, but I love a lot of that Best Made stuff...  one of
these days
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 11:43 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> to ward off Vandals?
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: I'm not sure I get the connection between bikes and hatchets...

2013-07-02 Thread Scott G.
I figured that Riv would go for the flint hand axe.


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Re: [RBW] CR720 on LongLow

2013-07-01 Thread Scott Henry
I hope its not too bad of an omen, I rode my motorcycle to work today which
means a real pain to deal with a flat!

Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 11:58 AM, Mojo  wrote:

> Oh Scott did you really, willingly write that statement about luck and the
> f**ts word?
> Dude you are so screwed. Carry extra tubes
>
>
> Joe 'rational in all things except f**ts' Ramey
>
> On Monday, July 1, 2013 9:27:17 AM UTC-6, Skenry wrote:
>
>> Excellent points.  I sometimes get spoiled in my little corner of bike
>> life/
>> I thought of the roof rack thing right after I hit send.
>>
>>
>> I remember maybe 15-20ish years ago, I would actually see people remove
>> the front wheel and Ulock it next to the frame.   For the most part, I
>> don't see that too much anymore.  Like I said, I get spoiled.   I have a
>> big enough SUV and good garage/shop space (and luck with no flats) that I
>> rarely take the wheels off anymore.
>>
>> I had my first flat in 6+ months last week, and it was in my garage.
>> Scott
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Scott Henry
>> Dayton, OH
>>
>> FTM-PTB
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 11:12 AM, BSWP  wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe two times a month, I put my LongLow in the back of my small-ish
>>> car, and it only fits with the front wheel removed. I suppose other people
>>> remove their front wheels to mount their bikes to rooftop car racks.
>>>
>>> Just two examples for you, there might be three hundred more. Until you
>>> own a bike with narrow forks and cantilever brakes whose pads hang up on
>>> the forks when you release the straddle wire, what Ian is describing may
>>> not make full sense.
>>>
>>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 1, 2013 7:28:39 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>>>>
>>>> How often do you all remove wheels that aren't already flat?
>>>>
>>>> I've had this issue before but other than the initial build, its never
>>>> really been an issue.   I just have to remember to install the wheel before
>>>> final inflation when changing a flat.Usually this means inflating the
>>>> tire (or at least mostly), then remembering, letting some air out,
>>>> installing and then re-inflating.
>>>>
>>>> Scott
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Scott Henry
>>>> Dayton, OH
>>>>
>>>> FTM-PTB
>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Overheard on Sierra to the Sea

2013-07-01 Thread Scott Henry
Except I don't think that I have ever, ever shifted my bicycle like a car,
1-2-3-4 ect.

Then there is the point where cross-chaining is more of a big deal on a
triple and not really that important at all on a double.

Nothing on a bike is really hard or complicated, but I think a 2x10 is most
definitely going to be the offroad norm.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 12:25 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On Mon, 2013-07-01 at 09:09 -0700, Mike Schiller wrote:
> > It's the access to wide range cassettes that's made triples somewhat
> > obsolete. Using a 44-28 or 46-30 crankset with a 11-30 up to a 12-34
> > cassette gives one a pretty good range on a road or country bike.
> >  Heavily loaded touring bikes being probably one of the only
> > exceptions although it kinda depends on the terrain you ride ... or
> > your physical condition.
> >
>
>
> OK, let's take a close look at the gearing you get with a 30/46 crank
> and an 11-34 cassette (an extremely common combination):
>
> 112.9   73.6
> 95.562.3
> 82.854.0
> 73.147.6
> 65.442.6
> 59.138.6
> 54.035.2
> 49.732.4
> 44.428.9
> 36.523.8
>
>
> Straightforward and simple sequential shifting... right up to the point
> when you run out of gears and have to cross over to the other chain
> ring.  To avoid cross-chaining, on the 30 you'll have to cross over
> somewhere between 47" and 62", and when you do shift over to the 46, you
> have to either manage a 20" step up (enormous!) or you'll have to
> downshift at least 3X in back to have a reasonably close step up.
>
> Likewise, ad it gets steeper as you're riding along on the 46T ring,
> somewhere between 54" and 44" you're going to have to cross over to the
> 30, but when you do you're going to experience a 20" drop, which is
> going to feel just like you dropped the chain.  To make it a reasonable
> step you're going to have to upshift 3 or 4 times.
>
> To me, that does not seem very "simple."
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > ~mike
> >
> >
> > --
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Re: [RBW] CR720 on LongLow

2013-07-01 Thread Scott Henry
Excellent points.  I sometimes get spoiled in my little corner of bike life/
I thought of the roof rack thing right after I hit send.


I remember maybe 15-20ish years ago, I would actually see people remove the
front wheel and Ulock it next to the frame.   For the most part, I don't
see that too much anymore.  Like I said, I get spoiled.   I have a big
enough SUV and good garage/shop space (and luck with no flats) that I
rarely take the wheels off anymore.

I had my first flat in 6+ months last week, and it was in my garage.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 11:12 AM, BSWP  wrote:

> Maybe two times a month, I put my LongLow in the back of my small-ish car,
> and it only fits with the front wheel removed. I suppose other people
> remove their front wheels to mount their bikes to rooftop car racks.
>
> Just two examples for you, there might be three hundred more. Until you
> own a bike with narrow forks and cantilever brakes whose pads hang up on
> the forks when you release the straddle wire, what Ian is describing may
> not make full sense.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>
>
> On Monday, July 1, 2013 7:28:39 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>>
>> How often do you all remove wheels that aren't already flat?
>>
>> I've had this issue before but other than the initial build, its never
>> really been an issue.   I just have to remember to install the wheel before
>> final inflation when changing a flat.Usually this means inflating the
>> tire (or at least mostly), then remembering, letting some air out,
>> installing and then re-inflating.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Scott Henry
>> Dayton, OH
>>
>> FTM-PTB
>>
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Re: [RBW] CR720 on LongLow

2013-07-01 Thread Scott Henry
How often do you all remove wheels that aren't already flat?

I've had this issue before but other than the initial build, its never
really been an issue.   I just have to remember to install the wheel before
final inflation when changing a flat.Usually this means inflating the
tire (or at least mostly), then remembering, letting some air out,
installing and then re-inflating.

Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 5:12 PM, IanA  wrote:

> Looking for some feedback on setting up these brakes.  I have a canti
> LongLow and have installed the CR720.  I've just fitted the front ones, but
> the problem I have is that due to the length of the pads, the brakes aren't
> able to release past the fork legs, meaning that I have to deflate the tire
> in order to remove the wheel.
>
> Short of changing out the brake pads to shorter ones (this I won't do) do
> I just live with this or am I missing something obvious?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Ian A
> Edmonton AB Canada
>
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Re: [RBW] Brooks Cambium C-17 First Look

2013-06-18 Thread Scott Henry
Gentlemen, take your panties, pull them out and untwist them.

Not sure how a persons dietary choices are thought of as political.
Barry, nor George, could care less what you eat.

Go step away from the computer and have a Snicker's bar, some of you get
cranky when you are hungry.

Its a seat, you put your butt on it.  One may like it, one may not and
still there is no way to tell till I put my butt on it.

Scott



Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Jun 18, 2013 at 12:19 PM, JL  wrote:

> I was just thinking that I hope Riv gets a few of these saddles in stock.
> They have been supportive of Brooks as a brand and cyclists who want
> alternatives to leather products in the past so it seems plausible.  I
> don't need a new saddle but I am curious how this compares to my Brooks.
>
> FWIW I think Brooks is marketing this saddle as an "all weather" model and
> giving that reason for the change in materials. I would be shocked if
> consumer requests for a non-leather saddle made in a hammock style like
> their other saddles are was not part of their decision process though.
>
> Jason Leach
> SF, CA
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 18, 2013 9:08:35 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Because it's fun to watch the histrionics: http://www.rivbike.com/**
>> product-p/bavsss.htm <http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bavsss.htm>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] New Riv Prototype

2013-06-18 Thread Scott Henry
I like it, looks like a lot of fun.
Probably would ever buy one, but it would be loads of fun to try.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Mon, Jun 17, 2013 at 11:01 PM, Liesl  wrote:

>
> http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2339507/The-hobby-horse-style-bike-pedals-saddle--holds-riders-harness.html
>
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Re: [RBW] Quickest bar tape goo removal chemical?

2013-06-17 Thread Scott Henry
I use WD-40.   Works great.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Sun, Jun 16, 2013 at 11:14 PM, Michael  wrote:

> Anything just rips it right offa there?
>
> I am cleaning off a Noodle.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: For Sale: Assorted Handlebars, Pedals, and a Saddle!!

2013-06-14 Thread Scott Mead
Another quick update:
 
The Selle Anatomica Titanico and Velo Orange Touring Pedals are sold.
 
Thanks everyone!
 
Scott

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[RBW] Re: Some items of interest in my online store...

2013-06-13 Thread Scott Mead
Hey Joe ... pretty sure it was you I met while out riding today.  I'm 
the guy who was very causally (I prefer to not say "slowly") riding the 
Hunqapillar through Doheny Beach State Park.  Usually when guys on carbon 
bikes pass me, the greeting is more of a "Hey, get outta the way, old man 
... can't you see I'm tryin' to ride here?"  Also, people are generally 
dumbfounded when looking at my bike ... extremely rare when someone 
actually knows what it is.  Nice to know there are some friendly cycling 
folks around here who also know their bikes.  I had no idea your business 
even existed ... but glad to know it's here.  Great idea ... cool artwork, 
too!
 
Nice meeting you ... I'm sure we'll bump into each other again ... nice 
Calfee, by the way, and the Grand Bois tires look great!
 
Scott

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Assorted Handlebars, Pedals, and a Saddle!!

2013-06-13 Thread Scott Mead
Thanks, Joe ... good to know.  This is my first time selling anything 
here  more accustomed to the standard practice at CL, where standard 
procedure seems to often be people saying they want it, then never showing 
up.  Hard to know who's actually for real until they show up with cash.  
I'll try to keep in mind this isn't the CL group ... but rather a much more 
gentlemanly crowd.  :)

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Assorted Handlebars, Pedals, and a Saddle!!

2013-06-12 Thread Scott Mead
 
WOW.  Thanks for all of the interest and purchases!  This group really 
moves fast!

Several Items have sold, but a few are still available.  All item prices 
include standard shipping to anywhere in the lower 48 states.  Sorry, no 
shipping outside the US, either.

Here’s the list of “still available” items:

 

Nitto 177 Noodle Handlebar 44CM - $50

Nitto RM016N Moustache Handlebar - $50

Nitto B206 “Nordeast” Handlebar - $30

Velo Orange Touring Pedals (1 pair) - $30

AtomLab PimpLite Pedals (1 pair) - $40

Ergon PC2-L (Large size) Pedals (1 pair) - $35

Selle Anatomica Titanico Saddle (black/copper rivets – very little use) - 
$75
 

Someone has alerted me to a possible issue that I should address.  Please 
don’t assume I’m holding an item for you, unless you’ve specifically asked 
me to hold it and I’ve agreed to do so.  I’m not *completely* opposed to 
holding something for a given time period … so ask if you need me to do it.  
I’ll do my best to accommodate, and if I can’t, I’ll let you know.  Otherwise, 
the first person to send payment gets the item.  If that’s bad form for 
this group, please let me know … 
Purchasing can happen through PayPal Personal at the following address:

*sc...@meadiaproductions.com* 

Pictures of the items for sale can be found here:

*http://www.flickr.com/photos/velozen/sets/72157634078708578/*<http://www.flickr.com/photos/velozen/sets/72157634078708578/>

 Thanks!!
Scott Mead

 

 

 

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Assorted Handlebars, Pedals, and a Saddle!!

2013-06-12 Thread Scott Mead
Another update:
 
The following items are now sold:
 
48CM Noodles/Tektro R100 levers
Albatross Bars
MKS Touring Pedals
Soma Noah's Arc Bars
Grip King Pedals
 
Everything else ... still available at the moment.
 
Thanks again ... you guys are amazingly quick!
 
Scott

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: Assorted Handlebars, Pedals, and a Saddle!!

2013-06-11 Thread Scott Mead
Hey folks ... the 48CM Noodles have been sold, along with the Tektro R100 
levers.
 
Everything else is still available as of right now.  I'll be following up 
with more tomorrow ...
 
Thanks for all the interest thus far!
 
Scott

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[RBW] For Sale: Assorted Handlebars, Pedals, and a Saddle!!

2013-06-11 Thread Scott Mead
 

Happy Almost-Summer!!

 

I’ve got several items that I hope can find good homes with some of you.  Just 
need the cash-flow more than I need parts waiting for a bike to put them on.  
All item prices *INCLUDE* standard shipping to anywhere in the lower 48 
states.  Sorry, no shipping outside the US, either.

 

Here’s the list:

 

Nitto 177 Noodle Handlebar 48CM - $60

Nitto 177 Noodle Handlebar 44CM - $50

Nitto RM016N Moustache Handlebar - $50

Nitto Albatross Handlebar (54CM Aluminum) - $45

Nitto B206 “Nordeast” Handlebar - $30

Soma “Noah’s Arc” Handlebar - $25

MKS Grip King Pedals (1 pair) - $35

MKS Touring Pedals (1 pair) - $25

Velo Orange Touring Pedals (2 pairs) - $30/pair

AtomLab PimpLite Pedals (1 pair) - $40

Ergon PC2-L (Large size) Pedals (1 pair) - $35

Selle Anatomica Titanico Saddle (black/copper rivets – very little use) - 
$75

 

BONUS:  If you buy one of the Nitto Noodle bars, I’ll throw in a pair of 
Tektro R100 brake levers OR a pair of Tektro RL720 interrupter brake levers!  
Only one of each is available … so first buyer gets  the choice.  No 
discount if you don’t want them … just thought they might be of use.

 
Purchasing can happen through PayPal Personal - please use the following 
email address:
 
sc...@meadiaproductions.com
 
 
Pictures of the items for sale can be found here, along with some notes for 
each:

 

*http://www.flickr.com/photos/velozen/sets/72157634078708578/*<http://www.flickr.com/photos/velozen/sets/72157634078708578/>

 

Thanks for taking a look!!  Let me know if you have any questions!

Scott Mead

 

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Re: [RBW] Ram + Parigi Roubaix + Stan's: report

2013-06-10 Thread Scott Henry
Patrick,
Sorry for the late reply, but I try not to do much computing on the
weekends.

Just two comments, one, how many flats do you normally get in 100 miles?
Actually, I use Stan's on a few of my bikes and love it.   Haven't had any
problems yet.  At all.Secondly, I can understand your issues with your
DuraAce setup.  Stick with it.  But jeez, if you haven't used index in 20+
years, why would you stick with the same indexing that's 20+ years worn?

Enjoy the ride.
Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Fri, Jun 7, 2013 at 7:49 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> Well, I've been riding the Ram/Parigi Roubaix and ya know what? No flats
> in a hundred miles!
>
> In other news: the Ram feels really nice -- as good as my customs. I
> continue to tweak the saddle-bar-height relationship -- we're looking at
> about 1" difference right now, and that could decrease -- but with our warm
> weather winds I've been riding recently 8 miles at a stretch into headwinds
> and it feels quite good. I use no gloves, but the very sensitive heel of my
> left hand is surprisingly comfortable. I may have to raise the brake bodies
> a wee bit on the bar's curve.
>
> I think I've got the saddle where it needs to be -- perhaps a wee bit too
> high, but the position is the wonderful (and on some bikes, elusive)
> perfect spot where you feel you are perfectly far behind the bb so that
> there is no awkwardness  either while spinning fast or while torquing hard
> to gain momentum.
>
> The 7-speed Dura Ace system, in indexed mode, requires an annoying fine
> tune between over- and under-shifting: reminds me why I've not used
> indexing for 20+ years until now -- hell, even derailleurs are newish. I
> use it now because, dammit, I have a 7400 indexing system and it *will*
> work for me. There is a very mild rattle once a crank rotation that must
> come from the rear derailleur because it's not from the front; but it's
> mild enough that I attribute it to default derailleur behavior and not the
> indexing.
>
> I find that, unladen, the Ram cruises nicely in the 74" gear and that the
> 70" gear feels "light", proof to me of pedaling efficiency, something I
> don't find with every bike. With some bikes, ~75" feels overgeared. I
> assume this has to do with very many things, but perhaps among them are the
> tires and the fit/position.
>
> Funny, I tend to do most of my riding in the 16-17-18 range: 74", 70", and
> 66", with a drop to 60" for steeper uphills.
>
> The Ram has carried up to 47 lb in the rear (Fly) with just a bit of
> stress, and it handles rear loads of 35 lb without any qualms. Overall, for
> me, that very nice combination of unladen spriteliness and rear load
> capacity. I managed to bust one of the "Y" struts holding the single rack
> strut to the seatstay braze ons, so I scavenged another single strut from
> the Logo to replace it as shown. The other seatstay braze on can hold a
> bracket for a rear light.
>
> I think I'm going to convert it into a fixed gear (though that will mean
> Dremeling off the shifter braze-ons and the derailleur hangar).
>
> Patrick Moore (That last sentence is just to get a rise out of Steve.)
>
> --
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: "Just Repair"

2013-06-05 Thread Scott Henry
The brazing furnace is cool, made me think of this (about halfway down)
http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/craftsmanship

Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 11:45 PM, bwphoto  wrote:

> Love the folding repair stand that uses the seat tube. Also the brazing
> "furnaces" are pretty interesting contraptions. All pretty amazing...
>
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[RBW] Re: I raced my Riv in a "mountain bike race"

2013-05-28 Thread Scott G.


On Tuesday, May 28, 2013 1:08:01 AM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> HA! Rivendell makes race bikes!
>

The sponsorship check and team jerseys are in the mail.
A packet of 24 additional Rivendell logos to put on your bike are
being sent under separate cover.  Dr. Fuentes will send you a
'special' packet soon, welcome to racing.


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Re: [RBW] A little taste of the Riv magic via a Grant Petersen inspired bicycle

2013-05-24 Thread Scott Henry
I am a HUGE Handsome fan, I have a large Speedy Devil myself.   It is my
current go to bike of choice.

Scott

Cheers,
Scott Henry
Dayton, OH

FTM-PTB


On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 6:37 PM, Chris Lampe 2  wrote:

> I was introduced to Rivendell Bicycle Works and Grant Petersen's writings
> almost two years ago and was very intrigued.  I bought my first adult
> bicycle, a Trek Multitrack, in 1995 and rode it for twelve years and then
> gave it to my dad and bought a 2007 Trek 7.2 FX.  I was riding the FX when
> I discovered RBW and because I wanted to test some of Grant's ideas, I gave
> the 7.2 to my dad and got my old Multitrack back from him.  I rode it for a
> bit and discovered it was too small so I started watching Craigslist for a
> replacement and about 3 months later I scored the same year and model
> Multitrack in a larger size.
>
> I've spent the last year or so upgrading different components on that bike
> and reading about frame geometry and comparing  that to the ride
> characteristics of my bike.  I quickly discovered that my bike had too much
> trail so I bought a new fork with 1cm more rake and dropped the trail from
> 74 to 66mm.  This was a vast improvement.  I also decided I wanted to try
> longer chainstays, a lower bottom bracket and even lower trail so I started
> searching for appropriate frames and finally found the Handsome Devil.
>
> Handsome Cycles was started in Minneapolis by a couple of guys who work
> in a bike shop where there is a great deal of reverence for Bridgestone
> bicycles.  With Grant's blessing they recreated the XO-1 and then designed
> the Devil as a 700c version of the XO-1.
>
> The Devil has 73 degree seat and head tube angles, a 45mm rake fork (trail
> of 60), chainstays of 43.6 + cm, and 70mm of bottom bracket drop.  The
> Devil's trail is right where Grant has stated he likes it, the bottom
> bracket is higher by Rivendell standards but lower than what I was riding
> and the chainstays came out to 44.5 cm with the forward facing dropouts.
> All of my bikes have had 73 degree seat tube angles so the more shallow
> angles are still an area to be explored for me.  Otherwise, this bike is a
> solid middle-ground between what I was riding and a Hunqapillar.  In fact,
> it has the same basic geometry as the Legolas and the 1994 Bridgestone
> RB-T.
>
> I've only ridden it a couple of miles but my initial impressions are very
> positive.  I don't feel a huge difference from the additional chainstay
> length but the bike feels much more stable and smooth and surprisingly, the
> front end feels more stable with 60mm of trail than it did with 66mm of
> trail.  The overall stability I attribute to the lower bottom bracket (an
> maybe the longer chainstays) and the more stable feeling front-end I'm
> guessing is a result of 60mm of trail being in the so-called "neutral
> steering" range.  I know I never would have take my hands off the
> handlebars of my Trek but I was completely comfortable riding this bike
> with no hands.
>
> The plan now is to eventually make my way out to RBW headquarters so I can
> actually test ride a Hunqapillar.  If the ride quality improvement from the
> Devil to the Hunqapillar is equal to the improvement from the Trek to the
> Devil, I'll set my sights on eventually getting the Hunq.
>
> Specs:
>
> 55cm Handsome Devil
> Deore 48/36/26 crankset
> 11-28 9-speed cassette
> Deore V-brakes
> Velocity Dyad rims
> Schwalbe 40mm Dureme tires
>
> [URL=
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/corwin1968/media/IMG_1303_zps570fc2fa.jpg.html][IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/corwin1968/IMG_1303_zps570fc2fa.jpg[/IMG][/URL
> ]
>
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[RBW] Re: PHL Riv friendly LBS

2013-05-12 Thread Dan Scott
Brian - thanks for the offer. Just looking for a good place to get serviced, 
etc.  and prefer to use a Riv friendly. My LBS in the burbs )swarthmore area is 
only into the typical road bikes. 

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[RBW] PHL Riv friendly LBS

2013-05-11 Thread Dan Scott

Any suggestions for a Riv friendly LBS in or around PHL?

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[RBW] Re: Anyone have recommendations for a good Electrolyte solution.

2013-05-06 Thread Scott G.
Nunn, works for me, no sugar.

E-Load if you want some calories, has a little flavor to it.
It has some sugar in it.

Has anyone used "SuperStarch" ?, gets you carbs without the sugar.

http://www.generationucan.com/super.html

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Re: [RBW] OT: Someone else is trying to reinvent the wheel, literally

2013-05-04 Thread Scott Henry
I rode a mountain bike on fire roads for about 7 miles once on an airless
rear tire.   It was stuffed with grass and leaves.   On this I will
actually agree with Jan, I have no desire to ride that again, it sucked.

I do remember as a child watching my dad try to get a solid tire on my
bike.   I recall screwdrivers, pry bars and swearing.No memory at all
of the ride.

Cheers,
Scott



On Friday, May 3, 2013, Jan Heine wrote:

> Sorry that there is a misunderstanding. I don't judge the merits of the
> invention until I have seen and ridden it. It is well possible that 15
> years from now, we all ride on those wheels. (Grant predicted/lamented in
> an early Rivendell Reader that spoked wheels would become obsolete, and he
> may be proven right after all.)
>
> I only noted that it was unfortunate that the inventor suggested that his
> invention eliminated the need of "wide and slow" tires, when wide tires
> aren't slow. Of course, this is a common misperception, and we shouldn't
> judge the inventor's knowledge of bicycle technology based on that one
> statement.
>
> I also suggested that anybody who is talks favorably about airless tires
> first should try them. I have ridden them for little over a mile, and I
> wouldn't want to do it again! At lower speeds, the added resistance will be
> even more noticeable, because air resistance is reduced, and rolling
> resistance makes up most of the resistance the cyclist has to overcome.
> Most of all, since the tires don't hold their shape, the handling is best
> described as "wayward."
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
> www.bikequarterly.com
>
> Follow our blog at www.janheine.com
>
> On Friday, May 3, 2013 10:30:55 AM UTC-7, pb wrote:
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, May 2, 2013 7:51:58 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
>>>
>>> Airless tires have so much resistance that you'd rather change a flat
>>> every 10 miles! We tested a set of airless tires for our latest tire test
>>> (Bicycle Quarterly Spring 2013), and found that they used 50% more power
>>> than a good racing tire. Maintaining 20 mph was very hard work. And in
>>> corners, they squirmed so much that it was really disconcerting.
>>
>>
>> Jan,  all due respect, I think you're still completely missing the
>> point.  I doubt that many riders on the Dahon which is the current target
>> of this work are trying to maintain 20 mph.  Additionally, the small
>> diameter of the 20" wheel reduces rotating weight to an extent which might
>> somewhat offset rolling resistance.  (No doubt I'll be mathematically
>> proven completely wrong about that, but consider that urban trips are
>> heavily stop-start-stop-start.)   If one considers the likely trip distance
>> and trip type of an urban Dahon, utility effectiveness may trump other
>> factors.
>>
>> On another subject -- I have to give the inventor credit for a campaign
>> which has exceeded its investment target.  The kickstarter is pushing
>> $US70,000, more than 10% over its target, with two weeks yet to go.
>> Apparently a number of  people think this idea has merit.  Even if it
>> ultimately fails, I sincerely congratulate Mr. Pearce on his efforts.
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] What'r you using for cush on your Moustache Bars under your tape?

2013-05-04 Thread Scott Henry
Late to the party here, when I was running mustache bars, and currently on
my OnOne Mary bars, I'm using flat bar grips and then wrapping with tape.
  I like the added diameter and the 'Cush' too.

You can use regular flat bar grips or even bmx grips, but the new
shaped ergo grips give some extra platform.Though on my current setup
on my Mary bars, I'm using super cheap grips I got late night from a big
box retailer.Working it the garage at night and realizing I needed at
set when everything else in closed.


Scott




On Wednesday, April 24, 2013, Michael wrote:

> I see lotsa M bar pics around here, and seems like alot of the bars I see
> are super chunky.
> Was wondering what everyone was using under the tape.
> Thanks for any tips.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: hubs

2013-05-02 Thread Scott Henry
And that's weird because the iBob list at least has a "reply to all"
function on the email version.
I've never been to the group page on either list.

Scott


On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 12:04 PM, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

> It does have a "Reply to author" option under the "More Message Options"
> arrow.  But, if you are accessing via email. not so much.
>
> - J / list admining
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Not too many people actively posting on this site for such a big amount of Rivs released to the wild over the years.

2013-04-30 Thread Scott Henry
I will vote for the email version of the group.  (all of my groups
actually).  I set up a folder/filter and all of my bike related emails go
into a separate folder.  I can scroll the threads on my computer, my iPad
or my cellphone.  Since its Gmail based, I can read it anywhere on any
device and everything stays in sync.

I figure in actuality, I read maybe 10% of the posts, but when a 'star' a
thread, I tend to read them all.

Try the email version, you might like it.
Cheers,
Scott


On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 1:57 AM, Manuel Acosta  wrote:

> I find it pretty comforting that in the world somewhere there are a good
> amount of people that enjoy talking about steel bikes and getting them
> dirty. Granted a lot of them(myself included) are kind of weird. But weird
> in a good way.
>
> Photo evidence by Stephen.
> http://flic.kr/p/eeT2Hk
>
> -Manny
>
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[RBW] Re: Cycling computers

2013-04-29 Thread Scott G.
The Strada wireless (old style analog), did not play nice with the SON hub 
or Berthoud fenders.

There is a new digital 2.4ghz version coming.


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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO Small handle bar bag

2013-04-29 Thread Scott Henry
That Frost River is nice, I have the old one.  It used to be sold as the
Rivendell Baggins CandyBar bag.

Cheers,
Scott




On Mon, Apr 29, 2013 at 2:00 AM, hsmitham  wrote:

> Hi Doug,
>
> I don't know why Rivendell stops runs on great bags like the Nigel Smythe
> tweed bags or the Baggins bag?? I have to admit I'm into fashion my bike is
> an example of said fetish. Acorn was sold out an hour and a half on all
> their ranger tan bags on the 24th I'm not going to wait by the computer at
> 9am to make a purchase or bid on the bay and pay exorbitant prices. So I
> bought this bag instead which meets my cirteria, small made out of duck
> waxed cotton with leather straps two way zipper reasonably priced and MUSA.
> https://www.frostriver.com/shop/sawbill-trail-handlebar-bag/
>
> Thanks for your advice and looking forward to our adventure.
>
> Best,
>
> Hugh
> Sunland, CA
>
>
> On Sunday, April 28, 2013 9:38:28 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:
>>
>> Hugh:
>>
>> If you plan to continue with a saddlebag & just want the front one for
>> phone, keys, camera, etc, the bar tubes are great.  They fit any bike, hold
>> a decent amount (but not a sandwich) & don't need any special rack or
>> support.  I have one that I take whenever I travel & rent a bike.  Does
>> Rivendell still carry the Brand V?  It's nicely done & IIRC a decent
>> price.
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> On Sunday, April 28, 2013 3:02:13 PM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Rivsters,
>>>
>>> I've been in search of a small handle bar bag like the Nigel Smythe
>>> tweed bag or the baggins one from time past.If you have one you're no
>>> longer using contact me off list.Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>> Hugh
>>> Sunland, CA
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Question for modern geometry race bike only riders who later went to Rivendells.

2013-04-29 Thread Scott Henry
Yes, you are getting older but if you are comfy on your old bike, than I
wouldn't change it.   1.5cm of handlebar drop isn't really too much of a
racing fit anyway, that's less than my "riv-ish" fit.

Ride whats comfortable and don't get too hung up on matching the look of
other Riv style bikes.   Personally, I'm not comfortable looking like Mary
Poppins.  All of my bikes are set for my comfort and contacts points can
vary greatly depending on the style of bike I'm riding.

Cheers,
Scott


On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 11:02 PM, Michael  wrote:

> Wanted your thoughts and experience on this issue I have been having with
> my Riv's. I know this sounds rediculous, but:
> *I am wondering if you had any trouble adapting from race geometry fit
> bikes you were used to riding, to the more upright-like rivendell bikes and
> how you got through it.*
>
> Here is what I mean:
> I started on a race geometry bike and rode it for 3.5 years. I was only
> about 1.5cm below saddle height with the drop bars. So it was nothing
> extreme.
> Always comfy, but wished I could sit more upright for better view
> sometimes. I wanted to sit higher, have more stable wider tires, and
> fenderability. I like the traditional steel type frame looks and
> appointments, too.
>
> Now:
> Got a Bleriot last August, and a new Sam in Feb. 2013.
> They are great rides, and comfy during the rides, but since last September
> I pay for it later in the day with low back pain, etc, that can last into
> the next day.
> No matter what set up I try, I seem to have problems. Noodle drop versions
> of the bikes.
> I am puzzled by this really wierd and frustrating experience. Am I just
> getting old (44 now)? Medically I seem to be fine, and doc seems to think
> my back is fine. More upright is supposed to be better for the back and
> neck. Maybe sitting bolt upright, or sitting low is good for the back, but
> anything between 40-80 degrees isn't for some?
>
> *I can only imagine that my problem is that, for whatever reason, my body
> just doesn't like to sit upright.* Seems like anything above saddle
> height for the bars causes pain. But I am happy to have the wider tires and
> fenderability features. Now if I could just dial in the fit.
> I guess I will try to replicate my race fit onto the Rivs and see how it
> goes.
>
> Any thoughts, experiences? Just losing my sanity?
>
>
> **
>
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Re: [RBW] Tarptent advice?

2013-04-16 Thread Scott Henry
No experience in the tarptents, but this is the regular one-man tent that I
use.

http://store.eurekatent.com/spitfire-1-tent

Very small, very light and easy to setup, pack and carry.  Cheap too.
I have about 40 nights in it over a few years and never a problem.   Once
was a 3 week stay and for that I'd have liked to have a bigger tent, but
the size to weight issue is hard to overcome.

Cheers,
Scott




On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 5:56 PM, Zack  wrote:

> Hey all.
>
> I am currently contemplating picking up a Tarptent to fill a "need" for a
> one person bike camping tent.  I currently have the hennessy hammock, which
> is fantastic but dependent on trees, and a big/relatively heavy/substantial
> 3 person tent.
>
> I want to get something lightweight that I can use when I am going
> somewhere that I am not sure about setting up the hammock.
>
> I am big (6'3") and don't want any part of sleeping in open air/dealing
> with bugs, so would need to get one of the tarptents that actually closes
> up in order to be able to sleep at night.
>
> Looking at the tarptent site, it's tough to determine which of their
> options works best for what I am trying to do, so I figured I would ask you
> guys.
>
> Any thoughts on this?  Anyone have a tarptent that they don't use/don't
> like and want to get rid of?
>
> Much obliged!
>
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Re: [RBW] New Bike Fitting System

2013-04-12 Thread Scott Henry
I will be upfront and totally honest on this one.  I used to work part time
for Roll:
and even more honest, that's me in the green shirt on their webpage (from
years ago)
http://roll-online.com/articles/roll-perfect-fit-pg154.htm

Not being 100% sure on how the computer was programmed, but I will tell you
that it does work for most people.  In addition to the body mapping there
is also a questionnaire to determine things like the type of bicycle and
the type of riding and the customers expectations.   Then the computer (and
the fitter) scans the legs, hips, arms, shoulders and another point I can't
recall.

What's nice is that it prints out numbers for frame size, handlebar
reach/height and saddle height.  Making setting the bikes up for customers
to ride very very easy.  I could scan someone, set a bike up for them and
then while they were test riding, set up another bike or two.

Was it perfect, no.  But really very close.
Was it needed, no.  But much better for the customer than jamming a tape
measure up their crotch.
Could I fit a customer without it, absolutely.  Been doing it for years.

Its nice in that its not just for elite or high end bikes and worked
equally well on a $250 flat foot hybrid.

For a Rivendell type or custom customer I think it would still be a good
start in addition to the builders own fit instructions.
Admit it, many on this list are not the typical cyclist.  We get a little
picky about our bikes and fits.   For putting a cyclist on a standard store
bought bicycle, it was really hard to beat the Roll: method.

Cheers,
Scott in Dayton, OH






On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:37 PM, George Schick  wrote:

> Saw this on the news tonight about a new machine at an LBS.  We all agree
> that good bike sizing is important to comfortable riding, but is it
> necessary to go beyond inseam height and a few other basic manual
> measurements?
>
>
> http://wgntv.com/2013/04/11/roll-new-bicycle-shop-uses-3d-body-scanner-to-get-you-fitted/
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 7 speed Dura Ace indexing versus 7 speed Shimano non-DA indexing

2013-03-29 Thread Scott Loveless
Going off on a tangent.  I have a Dura-Ace Uniglide hub.  The first
and second position cogs are DA Uniglide.  The remaining cogs and
spacers are 7-speed Hyperglide (wide spline filed down).  It all fits
on the hub just fine.  I've made indexed shifting work with a non-DA
shifter and derailer, but it's a bit clunky.

On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 12:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> Cog spacing, it was narrower than the other 7- and 8-speed groups. In fact,
> I think you can click-shift 7/8 Dura-Ace with 9-speed shifters.
>
> On Friday, March 29, 2013 8:56:21 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I know that, up to a certain point -- 7 speed or 8 speed -- Dura Ace
>> indexing was different from other Shimano indexing. Question:
>>
>> Was this difference in the cog spacing, or was it in the derailleur pull
>> (ie, in the shifter/rear derailleur combo), or both?

-- 
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Camp Hill, PA  USA
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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-21 Thread Scott Henry
Interesting, my undergrad was in geology too.   Surprising to see others on
the list with similar backgrounds.  Like Jim, I never actually used mine
too much.  Taught middle school science for a few years though.  Past that
it just makes me feel smart when seeing some cool outcrops on an offroad
ride.

For the record, I use my bars till they show some problems or I get bored
with them.  I'd doubt I have any older than 15 years max, generally they
get used, swapped, traded, sold...

Cheers,
Scott



On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 10:20 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery <
thill@gmail.com> wrote:

> I also went to school for geology. I took "mineral physics" in grad
> school, which was basically stress/strain/fatigue on the molecular level.
> I've never used it in any professional capacity, but when it comes to
> discussing handlebar failures, I can sling BS with the best of them.
>
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Re: [RBW] Front Rack ideas

2013-03-07 Thread Scott Loveless
On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 1:07 PM, Edwin W  wrote:

> Reading that review made me look at this Blackburn. Anybody used that with
> Riv mid forks?

Since I wrote that review/comparison (I didn't actually have all those
racks in my hand, just going on numbers), I should chime in.  The
Blackburn MTF fits perfectly on 700c Surly Long Haul Truckers and
every single 1980s Cannondale touring bike I've tried it on.  Three so
far.  The mid-fork eyelets on the SH appear to be intended for a Nitto
Mini if the bike had cantilever brakes.  I used to own a Rawland rSogn
that had two sets of mid-fork eyelets, high and low, and the MTF
didn't fit either of them, not by a long shot.

Blackburn includes p-clamps with the rack, but that still doesn't
guarantee it will sit level.  Also, if the rack is mounted with
p-clamps and you put any significant weight on it, the rack will
wiggle.  It's noticeable.  My experience was that I could see it
moving and also feel it, almost like a very low frequency speed
wobble.  I don't know that it was necessarily dangerous or bad, but it
set off my OCD enough that I went looking for a better solution.

This is it:  
http://thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/FIT%20SOLUTIONS%20PAGE.htm
 Item #4.  The rack mounts on this kit sit pretty wide, but that
actually works out well for fitting the rack.  First, attach the rack
at the lower fork drop-out eyelets.  Next, assemble the fork mounting
kit around the fork legs and attach them to the rack.  Everything
should be very, very loose.  Rattly, even.  Then use a toe-strap
around the rack and the fork crown to slowly pull the rack vertical.
When it's where you want it, tighten everything down and then remove
the strap.  Attached like this, or to mid-fork eyelets that actually
fit it, the MTF has been a solid rack.  I'm sure I've had at least the
rated maximum weight on it more than once.

-- 
Scott Loveless
Camp Hill, PA  USA
http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/
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Re: [RBW] Work Shop Advice II

2013-03-04 Thread Scott Henry
I always run mine as high as I can.  I don't like bending over at all so my
drivetrain height is just below chest level for me.




On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 10:27 AM, GeorgeS  wrote:

> My new work shop is coming along and the contractor has started asking me
> about the interior.  I have a Park bike stand that I use all the time and
> that I intend to use in the new shop.  I find that stand inadequate for
> some jobs, particularly those requiring the application of significant
> torque (removing fixed cup, the occasional recalcitrant seat post, etc.)
>  So, I purchased a Park wall-mounted bike clamp.  It came with no
> instructions.  Anyone have any advice on how far off the floor to install
> this thing?  700c wheels touching the floor?  A couple of inches of
> additional space?  Higher?  This clamp has to be screwed into a stud, so I
> don't want to get it right the first time if possible.  Thanks.
> GeorgeS
> New Orleans
>
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[RBW] WTT - Dura-Ace 9-speed DT shifters for bar end

2013-03-03 Thread Scott Loveless
Hi, folks.

I have a set of Dura-Ace 9-speed down tube shifters in good condition
that I'd like to trade for 9-speed bar end shifters.  Off list,
please.  Thanks.

-- 
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Camp Hill, PA  USA
http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/
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[RBW] Re: FS -PariMotos, Lumotec IQ Cyo Plus, Ortlieb Pannier

2013-02-25 Thread Scott Post
Light and tires are SOLD.  Thank you!
Pannier is still available.

On Monday, February 25, 2013 12:30:15 PM UTC-8, Scott Post wrote:
>
>
> Ortlieb City Biker QL3 Single Pannier, grey.  Basically new, I used it 
> about 3 times. 
> $95 - includes shipping CONUS ($85 if you're in Seattle and can pickup) 
>

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[RBW] FS -PariMotos, Lumotec IQ Cyo Plus, Ortlieb Pannier

2013-02-25 Thread Scott Postlewait
Selling some items to help fund my recent Hunqapillar project.   

Pacenti Pari-Moto tires, 650B black.  New, from the original order, never been 
mounted. 
$100 for the pair -includes shipping CONUS ($90 if you're in Seattle and can 
pickup)

Lumotec IQ  Cyo Plus dyno light.  Used, I bought this from a list-member a 
while back for a different project and never used it.
$65 - includes shipping CONUS ($60 if you're in Seattle and can pickup)

Ortlieb City Biker QL3 Single Pannier, grey.  Basically new, I used it about 3 
times.
$95 - includes shipping CONUS ($85 if you're in Seattle and can pickup)

Pictures available.  Please respond off-list to chsc...@drizzle.com

Thanks,
Scott Postlewait
Seattle, WA

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