Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-07 Thread Richard Rose
Garth, sent you a pm.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 6, 2023, at 7:36 PM, Garth  wrote:Okay, I see what's happening :)  Richard, the min insertion for a stem is always marked on the stem, and it's to the top of the lock nut. The min insertion line on my stems on hand range from 6.5cm for a relatively short Nitto quill adapter to 7.5cm for taller Genetic brand one. My tall Nitto Faceplatter stem is about 7cm. 2 cm below the lock nut is quite insufficient, as in "Danger Danger Will Robinson !" That "may" explain the wiggle, not being in far enough. When it's in to at least the min insertion line there should not be any wiggle at all, as in zero. Stems shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts. If your stem isn't tall enough, tell me exactly which one you have. I have an unused Nitto HighRiser, the original ones Riv had made in 135mm extension @10 degree up and a 31.8 clamp that I'll see you if you need it. 31.8 to 25.4 shims are common.Those high risers with the long quill and positive rise are as tall as you're gonna get out of a one piece stem. If that isn't high enough then the bike is too small ! Buy hey, if you ride a 59 I'll sell you my unused original orange Susie if you like as it has a much taller stack than any other RIv model. Too tall for me, I'd need a negative 75d stem hah hah . If the stem still wiggles when inserted to proper depth then the steering tube is out of spec. If that's the case, Riv will help you out !  FWIW, I bought a VO Rando frame that arrived yesterday and today got an email stating the rear recessed brake holes were made too small. So yeah, "stuff happens" even with "professionals". 



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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-07 Thread Bill Lindsay
Garth said: "there should not be any wiggle at all, as in zero. Stems 
shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts."

This is just not the case.  Quill stems are not like seat posts*.  
*Threadless* stems are more like seat posts.  With quill stems the stem HAS 
to be undersized so you can get it inserted in the first place.  The 
"clamping" interface is sunk down deep, so there's still slop up top.  With 
seat posts and threadless stems the clamping interface is up top.  

A small amount of wiggle is normal.  The less there is, the better, to be 
sure.  

*There was a small historical anomaly where seat posts are like quill 
stems: Briefly the seat post maker SR made a seat post briefly that clamped 
with a wedge like a quill stem.  It was OEM on some bikes in the 1980s. 
 Google "Schwinn 564" and click "Images" and you'll see one of those 
models.  That Allen bolt in the side of the seat post actuated the wedge. 
 It was terrible.  The seat post creaked because of the wiggle.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 4:36:14 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:

> Okay, I see what's happening :)  Richard, the min insertion for a stem is 
> always marked on the stem, and it's to the top of the lock nut. The min 
> insertion line on my stems on hand range from 6.5cm for a relatively short 
> Nitto quill adapter to 7.5cm for taller Genetic brand one. My tall Nitto 
> Faceplatter stem is about 7cm. 
>
> 2 cm below the lock nut is quite insufficient, as in "Danger Danger Will 
> Robinson !" That "may" explain the wiggle, not being in far enough. When 
> it's in to at least the min insertion line there should not be any wiggle 
> at all, as in zero. Stems shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts. 
>
> If your stem isn't tall enough, tell me exactly which one you have. I have 
> an unused Nitto HighRiser, the original ones Riv had made in 135mm 
> extension @10 degree up and a 31.8 clamp that I'll see you if you need it. 
> 31.8 to 25.4 shims are common.Those high risers with the long quill and 
> positive rise are as tall as you're gonna get out of a one piece stem. If 
> that isn't high enough then the bike is too small ! Buy hey, if you ride a 
> 59 I'll sell you my unused original orange Susie if you like as it has a 
> much taller stack than any other RIv model. Too tall for me, I'd need a 
> negative 75d stem hah hah . 
>
> If the stem still wiggles when inserted to proper depth then the steering 
> tube is out of spec. If that's the case, Riv will help you out !  
>
>
> FWIW, I bought a VO Rando frame that arrived yesterday and today got an 
> email stating the rear recessed brake holes were made too small. So yeah, 
> "stuff happens" even with "professionals". 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Richard Rose
Also & regarding Garth’s comments regarding the possibility of this Clem L being too small for me; Mine is a 52 & “should” be correct for me according to Riv sizing suggestions. I have put nearly 6,000 miles on this bike and dearly love it. But, I think I’d have been very comfortable going one size up. That would have put me on a 700c bike instead of this 27.5, and likely would have required a shorter stem inserted a bit deeper into the head tube. Proof of concept I suppose is that I am quite comfortable on my size large Gus. Not really more comfortable than on the Clem - but equally comfortable. The joy of always being in between sizes! Needless to say there is zero flex up front on the Gus being 1-1/8” threadless. Both bikes are a joy to ride.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 6, 2023, at 7:36 PM, Garth  wrote:Okay, I see what's happening :)  Richard, the min insertion for a stem is always marked on the stem, and it's to the top of the lock nut. The min insertion line on my stems on hand range from 6.5cm for a relatively short Nitto quill adapter to 7.5cm for taller Genetic brand one. My tall Nitto Faceplatter stem is about 7cm. 2 cm below the lock nut is quite insufficient, as in "Danger Danger Will Robinson !" That "may" explain the wiggle, not being in far enough. When it's in to at least the min insertion line there should not be any wiggle at all, as in zero. Stems shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts. If your stem isn't tall enough, tell me exactly which one you have. I have an unused Nitto HighRiser, the original ones Riv had made in 135mm extension @10 degree up and a 31.8 clamp that I'll see you if you need it. 31.8 to 25.4 shims are common.Those high risers with the long quill and positive rise are as tall as you're gonna get out of a one piece stem. If that isn't high enough then the bike is too small ! Buy hey, if you ride a 59 I'll sell you my unused original orange Susie if you like as it has a much taller stack than any other RIv model. Too tall for me, I'd need a negative 75d stem hah hah . If the stem still wiggles when inserted to proper depth then the steering tube is out of spec. If that's the case, Riv will help you out !  FWIW, I bought a VO Rando frame that arrived yesterday and today got an email stating the rear recessed brake holes were made too small. So yeah, "stuff happens" even with "professionals". 



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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Richard Rose
This pic shows how far into the head tube my stem currently extends. The 
minimum insertion line is 2 cm below the lock nut. FWIW, I do not notice 
any movement riding the bike. I only notice it straddling the bike, feet on 
the ground & putting my full weight into the grip area of my Bosco bars.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JTDqwkr1dqxW6TJd6

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 8:32:50 PM UTC-4 Richard Rose wrote:

> Garth, thanks but not certain I understand. You say (I think) minimum 
> insertion is “always to top of lock nut”. My minimum insertion mark is 2cm 
> below top of lock nut. The quill goes quite a bit deeper to well below top 
> of steer tube. I will remove to get an accurate measurement but it is quite 
> long. If I read your response correctly you are thinking the entire stem is 
> only 2cm below the top of the lock nut, which of course would be very bad.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 6, 2023, at 7:36 PM, Garth  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Okay, I see what's happening :)  Richard, the min insertion for a stem is 
> always marked on the stem, and it's to the top of the lock nut. The min 
> insertion line on my stems on hand range from 6.5cm for a relatively short 
> Nitto quill adapter to 7.5cm for taller Genetic brand one. My tall Nitto 
> Faceplatter stem is about 7cm. 
>
> 2 cm below the lock nut is quite insufficient, as in "Danger Danger Will 
> Robinson !" That "may" explain the wiggle, not being in far enough. When 
> it's in to at least the min insertion line there should not be any wiggle 
> at all, as in zero. Stems shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts. 
>
> If your stem isn't tall enough, tell me exactly which one you have. I have 
> an unused Nitto HighRiser, the original ones Riv had made in 135mm 
> extension @10 degree up and a 31.8 clamp that I'll see you if you need it. 
> 31.8 to 25.4 shims are common.Those high risers with the long quill and 
> positive rise are as tall as you're gonna get out of a one piece stem. If 
> that isn't high enough then the bike is too small ! Buy hey, if you ride a 
> 59 I'll sell you my unused original orange Susie if you like as it has a 
> much taller stack than any other RIv model. Too tall for me, I'd need a 
> negative 75d stem hah hah . 
>
> If the stem still wiggles when inserted to proper depth then the steering 
> tube is out of spec. If that's the case, Riv will help you out !  
>
>
> FWIW, I bought a VO Rando frame that arrived yesterday and today got an 
> email stating the rear recessed brake holes were made too small. So yeah, 
> "stuff happens" even with "professionals". 
>
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7701d47b-291a-4846-a882-f60858976662n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Richard Rose
Garth, thanks but not certain I understand. You say (I think) minimum insertion is “always to top of lock nut”. My minimum insertion mark is 2cm below top of lock nut. The quill goes quite a bit deeper to well below top of steer tube. I will remove to get an accurate measurement but it is quite long. If I read your response correctly you are thinking the entire stem is only 2cm below the top of the lock nut, which of course would be very bad.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 6, 2023, at 7:36 PM, Garth  wrote:Okay, I see what's happening :)  Richard, the min insertion for a stem is always marked on the stem, and it's to the top of the lock nut. The min insertion line on my stems on hand range from 6.5cm for a relatively short Nitto quill adapter to 7.5cm for taller Genetic brand one. My tall Nitto Faceplatter stem is about 7cm. 2 cm below the lock nut is quite insufficient, as in "Danger Danger Will Robinson !" That "may" explain the wiggle, not being in far enough. When it's in to at least the min insertion line there should not be any wiggle at all, as in zero. Stems shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts. If your stem isn't tall enough, tell me exactly which one you have. I have an unused Nitto HighRiser, the original ones Riv had made in 135mm extension @10 degree up and a 31.8 clamp that I'll see you if you need it. 31.8 to 25.4 shims are common.Those high risers with the long quill and positive rise are as tall as you're gonna get out of a one piece stem. If that isn't high enough then the bike is too small ! Buy hey, if you ride a 59 I'll sell you my unused original orange Susie if you like as it has a much taller stack than any other RIv model. Too tall for me, I'd need a negative 75d stem hah hah . If the stem still wiggles when inserted to proper depth then the steering tube is out of spec. If that's the case, Riv will help you out !  FWIW, I bought a VO Rando frame that arrived yesterday and today got an email stating the rear recessed brake holes were made too small. So yeah, "stuff happens" even with "professionals". 



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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Ted W
You know, Bill… after reading your comment here I had to go take a look at
my Appaloosa and wouldn’t you know it, you’re right! There’s some play in
it! It’s not as pronounced as the video Richard shared but it’s there to be
sure! I’d never noticed it before. Perhaps the others are in correct and
what is needed here is a taller stem to allow for more to be inserted in
the steerer.


On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 6:42 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Since you've measured your stem at 22.2mm and since you perceive the same
> wiggle with two stems, that rules out an undersized stem.  That gives you
> two choices:
>
> -live with it.  It's one of the minor shortcomings of quill stem bikes,
> made more noticeable with a really tall stem and presumably wide bars.
> -OR-
> -pursue the notion that your steer tube inside diameter is larger than it
> ought to be.
>
> If you wanted to pursue the notion that your fork is "out of spec", try
> inserting one of your test-stems into another 1" fork steer tube and
> convince yourself that it does not wiggle.  Then you will have proven there
> is an objective shortcoming on your fork.  Talk that over with Rivendell
> and try to make it right.
>
> In general, every quill stem, when slid into the steer tube has a small
> amount of 'wiggle'.  That small amount of wiggle is reduced but not
> eliminated by tightening the bolt that engages the wedge.  That wedge-spot
> is down at some depth, and the stem can still pivot around that point a
> tiny bit.  That is the way it is, to some extent.  In the case of a steer
> tube whose ID is larger, that wiggle will be larger.  I don't know if
> Rivendell has a spec that they guarantee, nor do I know if there's some
> universally accepted tolerance there.  My instinct is that the steer tube
> ID has to be larger than 22.2mm, and I'd say it probably also has to be
> larger than 22.225mm (which is the real value of 7/8"). To me, 22.3mm seems
> reasonable.  To me, 22.5mm would seem unreasonable.  Where to draw the
> line...22.4mm?  I don't know.
>
> For the sake of science I just tried to wiggle the stem on two of my bikes
> that have a 1" quill stem.  On neither do I consider it a problem.  On one
> bike (Bridgestone RB-1), I could see the gap around the stem at the locknut
> open and close ever so slightly.  On the other I saw no change.  What I see
> in your video seems like "more wiggle" than either of my test bikes.  Take
> that for what it's worth.  Maybe have a mechanic you trust give it a look.
> Tell them "I think this is bad, what do you think?  If they say "yeah I
> agree it's bad" then pursue something. If they say "no this looks normal"
> then maybe live with it.
>
> At any rate, if the wiggle makes you unhappy, talk with Riv and find a way
> to be happy.  I'm sure they'll work with you to get you there.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 2:57:20 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Regarding item #1, stem measures 22.2 & of course it is a 1” steer tube.
>> Seemed unliked Riv would sell a stem for one of their bikes that was the
>> wrong size, but worth checking for sure.
>> Regarding item #2, I did remove & replace stem & it did not change.
>> I remember reading that the minimum insertion point should be at or below
>> the top of the head tube, not the top of the locking nut. Mine is 2cm below
>> the top of the lock nut, so pretty close to the top of the head tube. Will
>> told me the minimum insertion line could be at the top of the lock nut. I
>> could drop it a few cm to see if the movement gets better, but then it
>> would be too low for my comfort.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 6, 2023, at 3:28 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Couple of thoughts right off:
>>
>> 1. if you pull the stem out to the minimum insertion line and re-tighten
>> it, does it still move? Sometimes, if you've inserted the stem too far, you
>> may encounter this issue. It can be mitigated by getting a shorter stem or
>> cutting the current one down a bit (advanced mode).
>> 2. What's the inner diameter of the steerer and what's the outer diameter
>> of the stem? There are different threaded headset standards. I've provided
>> a summary below. It's possible you've wound up with a mistmatch:
>>
>> *Stem “neck” outer diameter* – measurement units: mm (inches)  *Standard
>> name*
>> *21.15 (13/16″)* Old American and BMX standard
>> *22* Old French standard
>> *22.2 (7/8″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of
>> 25.4 mm (1″)
>> *25.4 (1″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of
>> 28.6 mm (1 1/8″) – not very common
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 3:07 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings folks. I would appreciate any input regarding this. Since new
>>> I have had some movement in my headset / stem that concerns me, possibly
>>> unnecessarily so? Please review the attached video link and tell me what
>>> you see. I felt the headset was a bit loose so tightened it a bit. This
>>> 

Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Garth
Okay, I see what's happening :)  Richard, the min insertion for a stem is 
always marked on the stem, and it's to the top of the lock nut. The min 
insertion line on my stems on hand range from 6.5cm for a relatively short 
Nitto quill adapter to 7.5cm for taller Genetic brand one. My tall Nitto 
Faceplatter stem is about 7cm. 

2 cm below the lock nut is quite insufficient, as in "Danger Danger Will 
Robinson !" That "may" explain the wiggle, not being in far enough. When 
it's in to at least the min insertion line there should not be any wiggle 
at all, as in zero. Stems shouldn't move when tightened, like seatposts. 

If your stem isn't tall enough, tell me exactly which one you have. I have 
an unused Nitto HighRiser, the original ones Riv had made in 135mm 
extension @10 degree up and a 31.8 clamp that I'll see you if you need it. 
31.8 to 25.4 shims are common.Those high risers with the long quill and 
positive rise are as tall as you're gonna get out of a one piece stem. If 
that isn't high enough then the bike is too small ! Buy hey, if you ride a 
59 I'll sell you my unused original orange Susie if you like as it has a 
much taller stack than any other RIv model. Too tall for me, I'd need a 
negative 75d stem hah hah . 

If the stem still wiggles when inserted to proper depth then the steering 
tube is out of spec. If that's the case, Riv will help you out !  


FWIW, I bought a VO Rando frame that arrived yesterday and today got an 
email stating the rear recessed brake holes were made too small. So yeah, 
"stuff happens" even with "professionals". 


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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Bill Lindsay
Since you've measured your stem at 22.2mm and since you perceive the same 
wiggle with two stems, that rules out an undersized stem.  That gives you 
two choices:  

-live with it.  It's one of the minor shortcomings of quill stem bikes, 
made more noticeable with a really tall stem and presumably wide bars.  
-OR-
-pursue the notion that your steer tube inside diameter is larger than it 
ought to be.  

If you wanted to pursue the notion that your fork is "out of spec", try 
inserting one of your test-stems into another 1" fork steer tube and 
convince yourself that it does not wiggle.  Then you will have proven there 
is an objective shortcoming on your fork.  Talk that over with Rivendell 
and try to make it right.  

In general, every quill stem, when slid into the steer tube has a small 
amount of 'wiggle'.  That small amount of wiggle is reduced but not 
eliminated by tightening the bolt that engages the wedge.  That wedge-spot 
is down at some depth, and the stem can still pivot around that point a 
tiny bit.  That is the way it is, to some extent.  In the case of a steer 
tube whose ID is larger, that wiggle will be larger.  I don't know if 
Rivendell has a spec that they guarantee, nor do I know if there's some 
universally accepted tolerance there.  My instinct is that the steer tube 
ID has to be larger than 22.2mm, and I'd say it probably also has to be 
larger than 22.225mm (which is the real value of 7/8"). To me, 22.3mm seems 
reasonable.  To me, 22.5mm would seem unreasonable.  Where to draw the 
line...22.4mm?  I don't know.  

For the sake of science I just tried to wiggle the stem on two of my bikes 
that have a 1" quill stem.  On neither do I consider it a problem.  On one 
bike (Bridgestone RB-1), I could see the gap around the stem at the locknut 
open and close ever so slightly.  On the other I saw no change.  What I see 
in your video seems like "more wiggle" than either of my test bikes.  Take 
that for what it's worth.  Maybe have a mechanic you trust give it a look. 
 Tell them "I think this is bad, what do you think?  If they say "yeah I 
agree it's bad" then pursue something. If they say "no this looks normal" 
then maybe live with it.  

At any rate, if the wiggle makes you unhappy, talk with Riv and find a way 
to be happy.  I'm sure they'll work with you to get you there. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 2:57:20 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Regarding item #1, stem measures 22.2 & of course it is a 1” steer tube. 
> Seemed unliked Riv would sell a stem for one of their bikes that was the 
> wrong size, but worth checking for sure.
> Regarding item #2, I did remove & replace stem & it did not change. 
> I remember reading that the minimum insertion point should be at or below 
> the top of the head tube, not the top of the locking nut. Mine is 2cm below 
> the top of the lock nut, so pretty close to the top of the head tube. Will 
> told me the minimum insertion line could be at the top of the lock nut. I 
> could drop it a few cm to see if the movement gets better, but then it 
> would be too low for my comfort.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 6, 2023, at 3:28 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Couple of thoughts right off:
>
> 1. if you pull the stem out to the minimum insertion line and re-tighten 
> it, does it still move? Sometimes, if you've inserted the stem too far, you 
> may encounter this issue. It can be mitigated by getting a shorter stem or 
> cutting the current one down a bit (advanced mode).
> 2. What's the inner diameter of the steerer and what's the outer diameter 
> of the stem? There are different threaded headset standards. I've provided 
> a summary below. It's possible you've wound up with a mistmatch:
>
> *Stem “neck” outer diameter* – measurement units: mm (inches)  *Standard 
> name*
> *21.15 (13/16″)* Old American and BMX standard
> *22* Old French standard
> *22.2 (7/8″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of 
> 25.4 mm (1″)
> *25.4 (1″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of 
> 28.6 mm (1 1/8″) – not very common
>
> On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 3:07 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>
>> Greetings folks. I would appreciate any input regarding this. Since new I 
>> have had some movement in my headset / stem that concerns me, possibly 
>> unnecessarily so? Please review the attached video link and tell me what 
>> you see. I felt the headset was a bit loose so tightened it a bit. This 
>> made no difference. The minimum insertion line for the Faceplater stem is a 
>> full two centimeters below the headset lock nut. So, the question seems to 
>> be is this stem quill movement excessive &  if so how to eliminate it. I do 
>> mind the inherent flex. It no doubt contributes to the comfort of the bike? 
>> I just want to be certain it is safe and causing no harm.
>> I appreciate your help.
>> Richard
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZXVZBrQEVzamDV1H6
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message 

Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Richard Rose
Regarding item #1, stem measures 22.2 & of course it is a 1” steer tube. Seemed unliked Riv would sell a stem for one of their bikes that was the wrong size, but worth checking for sure.Regarding item #2, I did remove & replace stem & it did not change. I remember reading that the minimum insertion point should be at or below the top of the head tube, not the top of the locking nut. Mine is 2cm below the top of the lock nut, so pretty close to the top of the head tube. Will told me the minimum insertion line could be at the top of the lock nut. I could drop it a few cm to see if the movement gets better, but then it would be too low for my comfort.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 6, 2023, at 3:28 PM, Ted W  wrote:Couple of thoughts right off:1. if you pull the stem out to the minimum insertion line and re-tighten it, does it still move? Sometimes, if you've inserted the stem too far, you may encounter this issue. It can be mitigated by getting a shorter stem or cutting the current one down a bit (advanced mode).2. What's the inner diameter of the steerer and what's the outer diameter of the stem? There are different threaded headset standards. I've provided a summary below. It's possible you've wound up with a mistmatch:Stem “neck” outer diameter – measurement units: mm (inches) Standard name21.15 (13/16″)Old American and BMX standard22Old French standard22.2 (7/8″)Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of 25.4 mm (1″)25.4 (1″)Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of 28.6 mm (1 1/8″) – not very commonOn Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 3:07 PM Richard Rose  wrote:Greetings folks. I would appreciate any input regarding this. Since new I have had some movement in my headset / stem that concerns me, possibly unnecessarily so? Please review the attached video link and tell me what you see. I felt the headset was a bit loose so tightened it a bit. This made no difference. The minimum insertion line for the Faceplater stem is a full two centimeters below the headset lock nut. So, the question seems to be is this stem quill movement excessive &  if so how to eliminate it. I do mind the inherent flex. It no doubt contributes to the comfort of the bike? I just want to be certain it is safe and causing no harm.I appreciate your help.Richardhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/ZXVZBrQEVzamDV1H6



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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Ted W
Couple of thoughts right off:

1. if you pull the stem out to the minimum insertion line and re-tighten
it, does it still move? Sometimes, if you've inserted the stem too far, you
may encounter this issue. It can be mitigated by getting a shorter stem or
cutting the current one down a bit (advanced mode).
2. What's the inner diameter of the steerer and what's the outer diameter
of the stem? There are different threaded headset standards. I've provided
a summary below. It's possible you've wound up with a mistmatch:

*Stem “neck” outer diameter* – measurement units: mm (inches)  *Standard
name*
*21.15 (13/16″)* Old American and BMX standard
*22* Old French standard
*22.2 (7/8″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of
25.4 mm (1″)
*25.4 (1″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of 28.6
mm (1 1/8″) – not very common

On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 3:07 PM Richard Rose  wrote:

> Greetings folks. I would appreciate any input regarding this. Since new I
> have had some movement in my headset / stem that concerns me, possibly
> unnecessarily so? Please review the attached video link and tell me what
> you see. I felt the headset was a bit loose so tightened it a bit. This
> made no difference. The minimum insertion line for the Faceplater stem is a
> full two centimeters below the headset lock nut. So, the question seems to
> be is this stem quill movement excessive &  if so how to eliminate it. I do
> mind the inherent flex. It no doubt contributes to the comfort of the bike?
> I just want to be certain it is safe and causing no harm.
> I appreciate your help.
> Richard
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZXVZBrQEVzamDV1H6
>
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> 
> .
>


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[RBW] Headset adjustment

2023-09-06 Thread Richard Rose
Greetings folks. I would appreciate any input regarding this. Since new I 
have had some movement in my headset / stem that concerns me, possibly 
unnecessarily so? Please review the attached video link and tell me what 
you see. I felt the headset was a bit loose so tightened it a bit. This 
made no difference. The minimum insertion line for the Faceplater stem is a 
full two centimeters below the headset lock nut. So, the question seems to 
be is this stem quill movement excessive &  if so how to eliminate it. I do 
mind the inherent flex. It no doubt contributes to the comfort of the bike? 
I just want to be certain it is safe and causing no harm.
I appreciate your help.
Richard
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZXVZBrQEVzamDV1H6

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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment how to ?'s...

2017-10-13 Thread Eric Norris
Lum:

Here are two things that I’ve learned:

Be careful and don’t tighten it down too much. You can damage the races.

That being said, tighten the adjustable part just a bit beyond where the play 
in the bearings is removed, then lightly tighten the locknut down, and finally 
loosen the adjustable part into the locknut. In my experience, this works 
better than getting the adjustment right and tightening the lockring.

As always, the late Sheldon Brown has his own advice: 
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html#threaded 
 

--Eric Norris
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> On Oct 13, 2017, at 12:38 PM, lum gim fong  wrote:
> 
> This is a needle bearing IRD Rollerdrive just like Riv sells.
> 
> 1. Loosen lock nut
> 2. tighten the nut under the spacers 1/8 turn
> 3. Tighten lock nut.
> 4. test for correct feel.
> 5. Readjust if.
> 
> 
> Is this right?
> Anything to look out for?
> Do I have to worry about those keyed spacers or anything else that might be 
> keyed I have to be careful of?
> Or is this just as easy as described above?
> 
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[RBW] Headset adjustment how to ?'s...

2017-10-13 Thread lum gim fong
This is a needle bearing IRD Rollerdrive just like Riv sells.

1. Loosen lock nut
2. tighten the nut under the spacers 1/8 turn
3. Tighten lock nut.
4. test for correct feel.
5. Readjust if.


Is this right?
Anything to look out for?
Do I have to worry about those keyed spacers or anything else that might be 
keyed I have to be careful of?
Or is this just as easy as described above?

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Re: [RBW] headset adjustment

2016-11-06 Thread Patrick Moore
My Rivs have all had 32 mm flats on the headset bits. I'd get a 32 mm
adjustable cup wrench, and spend the change on a big, decent quality
adjustable wrench which is also useful for bb assembly removal and hitting
the dog. (And for many other things; just kidding about the dog; he's
already cowed and obeys me implicitly.)

On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 11:19 AM, Jim S.  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I was going to attempt a headset adjustment, which I've never done. I need
> to buy two wrenches to do the job. It's probably obvious to others, but I
> can't figure out what size wrench to buy to adjust the headsets on my
> Rivendells. Are they all going to be 32 mm? That appears to be the most
> common size.
>
> Thanks in advance for any answers.
>
>
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[RBW] headset adjustment

2016-11-06 Thread Joe Bernard
Yes, all 1-inch threaded headsets use a 32mm adjusting nut. You only need one 
32 wrench for the adjuster, the locknut can be snugged down with a standard 
crescent (adjustable) wrench.

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[RBW] headset adjustment

2016-11-06 Thread Jim S.
Hi all,

I was going to attempt a headset adjustment, which I've never done. I need 
to buy two wrenches to do the job. It's probably obvious to others, but I 
can't figure out what size wrench to buy to adjust the headsets on my 
Rivendells. Are they all going to be 32 mm? That appears to be the most 
common size. 

Thanks in advance for any answers.


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